Dahlia flowers are luxurious ornamental plants with a fairly long flowering period. According to one ancient, very beautiful legend, in the old days this flower was grown only in the garden of the king, and it was guarded like the apple of an eye. But one of the gardeners took a chance, and planted a beautiful plant under the window of his beloved. That gardener was imprisoned, but thanks to his bold deed, the flower became known to people. There is another legend that says that a beautiful flower grew after the ice age on the site of an extinct fire and became a symbol of life again emerging.
  Growing dahlias is a very exciting activity that will fill all your leisure time. This flower grows in nature only in some mountainous regions in Mexico. Once upon a time, root tubers, a flower, the ancient Aztecs used in cooking. The Europeans did not like the taste of the root tubers, but the magnificent beauty of the flower was to their liking. In Russia, a flower is called a dahlia in honor of the botanist Georgi.

Site selection

Despite all its splendor, dahlias are actually completely undemanding flowers. Even in the shade of structures or tall trees, these flowers can bloom magnificently. But, if you plant a plant in the shade, then its flowers will be much smaller. If you want to grow strong plants that will bloom magnificently, then plant tubers in light partial shade. In openwork penumbra, the flowering period of the bushes will be maximum.

The main condition that must be observed when choosing a site is soil moisture. The tubers of the flower rot very easily due to excess moisture, and therefore, in the lowlands where water stagnates, these plants should not be planted. Experienced flower growers in the selected area always make a drainage layer so that the water does not stagnate near the roots. Chipped bricks or expanded clay can be used as drainage.
  But plants are not demanding on the composition of the soil. And on depleted loam, and even on sandy soil, and on greasy, fertile black soil, flowers will bloom equally magnificent. But nevertheless, it is advisable, when digging in the fall, to add a little humus and compost to the ground in the selected area, covering about 5 kg of fertilizers per square. In the spring, just before landing on the ground, you need to scatter the ripened compost (only non-deciduous) and introduce a little ash into the soil.
One of critical conditions  in growing dahlias from tubers, this is an annual change of plot. Although a dahlia is a rather capricious flower, and to protect it from disease and degeneration is possible only by constantly changing the area for planting. You can not plant these flowers in the place where asters or plants that previously (even more than a year ago) were sick with a fungus grew a year earlier. How to plant dahlias and what are the secrets to growing dahlias?

Planting dahlias in open ground necessarily begins with the preparation of root tubers.

1. In early spring, preferably in April, the tubers begin to prepare for planting - they are cleaned of dried roots, cut out rotted, dried patches on them, treat all scratches and damaged patches with brilliant green.
2. Then the tubers must be planted in containers that are filled with a nutrient substrate or wet peat. The tubers should, after planting 2-3 cm, protrude above the soil level. The containers are then placed in a bright room with an air temperature of about +18 degrees.
3. As soon as the first kidneys hatch, the tubers should be dug up and cut into pieces so that each one has a strong kidney. Usually from one large root tubers you can get about 5 parts with buds for planting. Then, for some time, the separated tubers are germinated in containers in a warm room.
4. The lateral shoots that have appeared are cut off as soon as they reach a height of 10 cm. Only after such pruning can root plants be planted in the garden.

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Do not rush to throw away cut shoots - they can be used for cuttings. Cuttings are planted in a substrate, prevented in a dark place and well watered. After some time, cuttings can be planted in the garden.
  Usually dividing root tubers and cuttings is carried out in order to obtain more planting material. Also, by dividing tubers, the degeneracy of varieties can be reduced. If you do not need a large amount of planting material, then tubers can not be divided.

You can propagate dahlias and seeds, and not just root tubers. Dahlias grown from seeds will sprout very quickly, gain strength and be sure to bloom magnificently. But so that dahlias when planting and leaving already in open ground  you were pleased with abundant flowering, you need to know how to grow dahlias from seeds.

Growing dahlias from seeds is very simple:

• about 7 days after sowing seedlings should appear together;
• after 21 days, seedlings should be dived into separate containers;
• already in late May, young dahlias are planted in open ground;
• already in the fall, young plants form small nodules that can be planted for next season.

Sometimes flower growers buy seedlings in stores, which is very convenient. Saplings make sense only before planting. Keep in mind that grown dahlias from tubers bloom more magnificent and stronger.

Planting flowers

When to plant dahlias so that they can bloom magnificently? Planting dahlias in open ground is possible only in spring. But, if you are late, then you can plant tubers in June. When the threat of May frost passes and the earth warms up, you can plant sprouted tubers. If you will plant dahlias in the open ground in early spring, then the plants should be protected from frost, although practice shows that it is not worth rushing to plant.

When and how to plant dahlias? Experienced gardeners plant dahlias when there is no sun or in the evening.

Many flower growers do not know how to plant dahlias so that they form powerful bushes. The dahlia planting scheme is as follows: for stunted flowers, it is enough to leave about 60-80 cm between plants, for tall varieties, the distance between the planting pits should be about 100 cm.

1. At the prepared site for planting, dig holes for the size of tubers. Immediately calculate the size of the hole, because fertilizer should be poured on its bottom. These flowers love rotted manure, which has lain for a couple of years.
2. When planting, the base of the tuber is lowered into the pit, and its top should be 2 cm above the ground.
3. When planting, make sure that the root neck is not sprinkled with soil. It is on the root neck that the growth buds are located - new stems. If you deepen the root collar too much, the root can simply rot.
4. It is advisable to sprinkle the planted tuber with a layer of mulch, or at least make a ring-shaped recess around the planting hole in which water will stand.
5. After planting, plants should be shed abundantly with water. Mulch with a layer of 5 cm broken tree bark  or sawdust, after mixing them with compost

If you will plant decorative tall varieties, then immediately when planting, install a support to which you will tie fragile stems.

Read also: Mountain cornflower: planting, reproduction, application

Care

How to care for dahlias? Decorative varieties  need enough painstaking carebut the time and effort spent will return to you in the form of lushly flowering, luxurious plants. Growing luxury dahlias is a feasible task even for inexperienced gardeners.

Stepson

Stitching is the removal of excess stems. Although this is not the main thing in leaving, it is still worth it to step in these flowers. If you want to get very large flowers and strong bushes, then no more than 3 stems should be left on each bush. Experienced flower growers do not recommend leaving a lot of shoots on the bushes.

Growing strong plant specimens includes formative pruning. Be sure to spend all summer forming the pruning of bushes. The fact is that the bushes are intensively gaining green mass, while not forming buds. For the proper development of the bush and abundant flowering  on each plant one central stem and about 3-4 branches should be left. Everything else must be removed. For a tall dahlia plant, care also involves removing leaves from the tuber 45 cm up. This will allow the plant to direct more energy to flowering.

If you will grow flowers for a cut, then care for dahlias must include the removal of excess buds. On each shoot, the plant has a central bud and two side buds. Pinch the central bud.

Watering

If you want to grow magnificent bushes, then you need to know how to water dahlias correctly. It is necessary to water a dahlia flower regularly, but without fanaticism. Plants that are watered too much can simply rot. When watering an adult dahlia, it is necessary to soak the soil about 30 cm - this will be quite enough. Water the plants as the soil dries. Decorative Dahlia especially loves watering in the dry period.

Top dressing

The first time you need to feed dahlias when planting tubers. When dahlias are planted in spring, fertilizers are immediately applied to the wells. You can make organic. The next top dressing is already being made when the bushes begin to gain green mass. These flowers are very fond of fertilizers with nitrogen, respond well to the application of wood ash and superphosphate. It is recommended to feed flowers every two weeks until the end of flowering.

Fertilizers are very convenient to apply during irrigation. So you greatly simplify the care of dahlias. You can also feed dahlias with manure, but only overripe.

How to feed dahlias so as not to harm? These flowers can respond differently to fertilizers. It all depends on the lack or excess of a particular substance in the soil. It is not necessary to introduce ammonium nitrate or carbomide into the ground on which the plants grow. Plants can react poorly to too much potassium salt. Feeding a dahlia has not been done since August.

Garter Support

The peculiarity of dahlias is that they have a hollow stem, which can easily break due to a gust of wind, so they must be tied to pegs. Many flower growers even set up pegs when planting flowers. When you dig up a landing hole, immediately establish a support, and only then plant a tuber. As a support fit wooden pegs or plastic. Do not tie stems to metal supports. The support must be driven deep enough into the ground so that it does not bend during watering or because of rain.

If the shoot still breaks, try to “cure” it by laying a splint - attach a branch to the stem, and then tie the stem to the support. Planting and growing dahlias is a constant work that will return in the form of lushly flowering, powerful bushes.

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Preparing for the winter

Watering dahlias is stopped when the first cold autumn days come. At this time, you need to prepare for digging the root tubers and laying them for the winter. The storage of tubers is a very important stage in the care of these plants and the most time-consuming in the whole process of growing. If you do not comply with all storage rules, then planting material may simply disappear during the winter.

When to dig tubers? With the onset of the first frosts, the shoots of flowers begin to turn black. This is a signal that it is time to dig up flowers. At a height of 20 cm, the secateurs should trim the entire aerial part of the flower. After this, the tubers are carefully dug out using a pitchfork.
  How to care for dahlias folded for winter storage? When the tubers are dug up, all the land from them must be cleaned. Then the stem is cut again by 7 cm. All tubers are washed in cool water, and then incubated for half an hour in a weak solution of manganese. After killing bacteria in potassium permanganate, tubers should be dried in air. Only after these procedures can the tubers be stored. Then next year you will have magnificent flowers.

Tubers should be stored in winter at a temperature of +5 degrees and with an air humidity of about 60-70%. The room should be well ventilated and dark.

Tubers are stacked in boxes with peat or sawdust. To store root tubers it is good to use a basement or cellar.
  If there is no basement and cellar, then the tubers should be placed in plastic bags with wet sawdust or peat, put in cardboard box  and put in a cool place, for example, on a loggia.
  Throughout the winter, tubers should be inspected to stop the spread of rot in time. If you
  If you find a rotting area, then you just need to cut it off with a knife and treat it with charcoal powder or brilliant green.

Landscaping

If you decide to plant several varieties of these flowers in a group planting, pay attention to dark-leafed species. Especially decorative varieties with rich cherry leaves, which have white flowers. Looks great blue dahlia with bronze foliage. Dark leaf varieties are commonly used to create dark spots on flower beds. Be sure to plant dark-leafed dahlias, the cultivation of which is no different from the cultivation of other varieties.

• Very often, these flowers are planted in multicolored groups in small areas. Dahlias white color, yellow, pink, maroon form one bright, summer mix of flowers in the flowerbed.
• A blue dahlia looks very beautiful in a double border next to a yellow daisy.
• Beautiful neighbors for these flowers are begonias, alissums, railing.

Dahlias popular with gardeners, despite their height, can be grown at home, in pots. But at the same time, you need to take into account the specifics of cultivation and select the appropriate varieties.

Choosing a variety of dahlias that are suitable for growing in pots

For planting a dahlia at home or on the balcony, varieties with a small root system are selected. Special varieties of indoor undersized dahlias have been developed - for growing in pots at home. These are pot dahlias, miniature dahlias, etc. But you can grow high varieties. It is important to choose the right container for planting and take care of the support if the flower has grown to 85-90 cm.

Pot selection

Indoor dahlias can be planted in plastic containers, wooden, wicker, clay, different sizes. What's better?

What container to use

In plastic containers, soil overheating is possible, oxygen access to the roots is reduced. Wicker baskets are devoid of these shortcomings, but they are usually short-lived. Wooden boxes are comfortable for flowers, but not decorative enough for a room or balcony. For attractiveness, they can be painted, but then the air permeability is broken. In a clay or ceramic pot, dahlia roots do not lack oxygen. Such pots are attractive and durable.

Need to find a big pot

To plant a dahlia, you need a large pot. When choosing a volume, the dimensions of the colors should be considered. The size of the root system for low grades requires a capacity of 4-5 liters. Medium-sized dahlias will feel comfortable in pots of 7-8 liters. For flowers higher than 90 cm, 10 l or more is required.

Better choose a heavy pot

The pot must be heavy. Adult dahlia requires stable support, so plastic or wicker containers are not suitable. A thick-walled clay pot is able to ensure the stability of the flower.

Hole drilling

Dahlias cannot tolerate excess moisture. If the water stagnates in a pot after watering, the roots will die due to lack of oxygen. It is necessary to ensure the outflow of water through the drainage holes. If there is only one drainage hole, several more need to be drilled to improve drainage.

Why is it necessary to rinse the pot thoroughly?

When using pots that are already in use, they should be pretreated. Microorganisms, insect eggs, fungi, salt can accumulate in clay, etc. Therefore, before use, the pot should be thoroughly washed with soap and water and disinfected with a chlorine-free product.

Coarse Soil Mix

Dahlias are demanding on soil quality. You can buy a ready-made soil mixture or mix it yourself. The soil should be coarse-grained, loosened to provide air access to the roots. Peat, humus, sand are added to it. Experienced growers are advised to mix perlite, whose absorbent granules remove excess moisture from the soil.

Landing

It is important to correctly determine the timing of planting, so as not to spoil the planting material.

Landing time

If the pots will be in the apartment or on the heated balcony, then tubers can be planted already in late March - early April. If you plan to put the pots in the open air (on the porch, in the garden or on the open balcony), then it is better to wait until May, when even at night it will be at least 12 0 C.

Potted dahlias begin to bloom in about 45-50 days after planting. This period can be reduced by providing plants with heat and sunlight.

Pot filling

When filling the pot, special attention is paid to the drainage layer.

Experienced growers are advised to place one or two coffee filters on the bottom of the pot. They absorb moisture well and block the drainage holes, closing them for pests.

At the bottom of the pot you can pour gravel. The height of the drainage layer is about 15 cm. The drainage holes should remain free, ensuring the outflow of water. Soil is poured onto the drainage. The height of the soil depends on the pot - you need to leave about 20 cm to the top edge.

The tubers are planted to a depth of about 15 cm. After planting, sprouting and backfilling the tubers, the distance from the soil to the edge of the pot should be at least 2 cm. Moistened soil is moistened and slightly crushed - the ground should be loose.

Planting tubers

Tubers with short roots should be planted. If the roots are allowed to lengthen, they will intertwine and will be damaged when untangled. Restoring the roots will delay the growth and flowering of the dahlia.

The tuber is laid on the ground with the eye up, so that the stem can grow unhindered. It is desirable that the sprout is located approximately in the center of the pot, and the distance from the ends of the roots to the pot wall is at least 5-6 mm.

The tuber is sprinkled with moistened soil, the eye does not need to be poured. As the stem appears and grows, the soil is added, but very carefully, so as not to damage the delicate sprout. Adding soil continues until the distance to the edge of the pot is reduced to 2-3 cm.

A pot with a planted dahlia is placed in a warm, bright, sheltered from the wind place. In the evening, slight shading is possible.

Watering the ground

For planting, moisten the soil. After planting, the dahlia does not require watering, the soil is only slightly sprayed warm water. Watering begins a few days after the formation of absorbent roots.

Fertilizers

For rapid growth  and lush flowering flowers require top dressing. Dahlias respond well to fertilizers based on algae and fish, bone meal. You can buy a ready-made mixture for feeding plants in a specialized store.

Carefully apply fertilizer with high level  nitrogen. An excess of nitrogen leads to diseases of the dahlia, they bloom weakly, tubers do not tolerate wintering.

Shack insertion and stem binding

For flowers of medium and high growth, additional support will be needed so that the stem can withstand the heaviness of the flower. As a rule, the height of the support does not exceed 120 cm. The support must be stable - it is inserted into the ground to the very bottom and, if necessary, additionally attached to the pot (for example, using wire).

The stem is carefully tied to the support.

Dahlias do not tolerate transplanting, so experienced flower growers advise immediately planting a tuber in a pot in which the flower will grow.

Care

Caring for dahlias in pots is simple and includes:

• watering,
• soil loosening,
• top dressing
• protection against diseases and pests.

If potted dahlias grow outdoors (on open balcony, porch, porch), then under adverse weather conditions they are just temporarily brought into the room.

Watering the stem and soil

Dahlias do not tolerate excess moisture. The frequency of watering depends on the weather. This is usually two to three times a week. If it’s cool, once is enough, depending on the condition of the soil. In dry and hot weather, you can water it daily, avoiding stagnation of moisture.

After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil. Otherwise, a dried earth crust is formed that does not allow oxygen to pass to the roots.

Lighting

Dahlias love sunlight. For quality growth and flowering, they need about 6-8 hours to be in direct sunlight. If the pots are on the balcony, choose the sunniest spot for them. If dahlias grow in a room, then it is useful to make up for the lack of sunlight with fluorescent lamps. The lamp can be installed immediately after planting at a level of 15 cm above the ground. As the dahlia grows, the lamp rises.

Fertilizer timing

Dahlias need a lot of potassium and phosphorus, to a lesser extent - nitrogen. Top dressing begins in June. Fertilizers are applied once every two weeks when watering. Avoid overfeeding with fertilizers. Feeding continues until September.

Lower leaf removal

Around mid-July, the lower leaves are removed from the stem to improve air circulation. It also protects plants from powdery mildew disease.

Spraying with insecticide and fungicide

To protect against pests, potted dahlias are treated twice a month with a fungicide or insecticide.

Pests and methods of dealing with them

Yellowed and curled leaves are a signal of the appearance of aphids. If the colonies are single, then the damaged leaves are simply removed. With severe infection, insecticide treatment is necessary.

Slugs gnaw or completely destroy the leaves. To combat them, metaldehyde preparations, superphosphate, red pepper are effective - they scatter on the ground.

Vegetable bugs cause drilling of leaves. To get rid of them, dahlias are sprayed with an insecticide. Processing is best done in the morning when bed bugs are inactive.

Earwigs spoil the buds by gnawing their core. From earwigs helps watering once a week with a decoction of wormwood or celandine.

When mold appears, fungicide treatment helps.

In case of powdery mildew, treatment with a preparation containing copper is necessary. You can apply a gray treatment.

Wintering Dahlia

At the first autumn frosts, even if dahlias grow in the house, you need to think about winter holidays. Before winter, cut the dahlia, leaving 4-5 cm of the stem. Tubers can be dug up, or left in the same pots in which they grew.

Dug up tubers are carefully cleaned of the earth, processed with a solution of potassium permanganate of medium brightness and dried. They are stored in a cool, dry place at an air temperature of about 5 0 C. So that they do not dry out during storage, tubers can be sprinkled with sawdust, sand, peat.

During wintering, bulging roots are cut off in the pot, the pot is wrapped in a newspaper in several layers and packaged in an opaque bag. Pots should be kept in a cool, dry place until spring.

Dahlias are divided into classes based on their appearance and organization of inflorescences.

In modern gardening, 10 of the most popular varieties are planted:

1. Varietiescollar. Dahlias of this class grow up to 1 meter. They look like a collar, thanks to the marginal outer row of flowers, at the top of which are twisted smaller and different colors of petals. Hootenanny ─ a core variety yellow color  with red inflorescence. The flowers are very large.  The variety Claire de Luna has a flowering cream color. The adult bush has a height of 1 meter.
2. Varieties are anemone. Inflorescences are characteristic in appearance and are similar to terry anemone. They are dressed up in large, oval flowers of the same row. The core has oblong tubular petals. In this class, the Boogie Woogie variety can be distinguished. It is distinguished by false reed flowering of lilac color in 3 rows, which creates an additional volume of the basket. The yellow color of the tubular petals makes the flower visually magnificent.
3. Peony varieties. Flowers of this species have practically no differences with the appearance of peonies. False reed flowers form 3 circles and surround tubular petals with a tight fit. Very large baskets. The bush reaches up to 70 centimeters in height, ideal for growing hedges of flowers.  The representative of this Fascination class stands out for its neat appearance and pink color of the inflorescence, which mainly emphasizes it against the general background of the flower garden.
4. Cactus varieties. A disheveled type of flowering characteristic of the name of this class of dahlias. A basket of very large sizes with long and sharp petals that randomly diverge from the middle of the flower. Bevensen variety has a gentle ─ purple color and grows up to 1.5 meters.
5. Varieties are nymphaea. Have the correct form  and in appearance faintly resemble water lily. Growth on average about 1 meter, with a flower diameter of 20 centimeters. Flowers, reed-shaped form 7 rows, while several rows in the middle of the flower do not open. Almand Joy won over because of the large size of the flower and the combination of pink and white petals.
6. Varieties are spherical. The spherical shape, large inflorescence and high growth, distinguishes this class from other types of dahlias. Twisted, tightly planted reed petals provide it with a beautiful rounded shape. A bush can have about 20 such flowering blobs at a time. The new Icoon variety is eye-catching.  The color of the basket is yellow, with red ends.
7. Varieties are decorative. The most common variety in gardening. Inflorescences have a terry surface with flowers twisted and bent to the stem. The basket is very large up to 25 centimeters in diameter. In appearance, the flower is incredibly lush. Variety Agnes Bernauer, a very bright representative of this class.  A bush of short stature with a motley pink color, which attracts the attention of inveterate flower growers.
8. Mixed varieties. This group of dahlias combines all existing species and hybrid classes, which for a number of reasons do not apply to other varieties. Such flowers can be found very rarely in the florist's plot, but, nevertheless, every year, in this class, surprising and unique in appearance traits are born.

Planting Dahlias

Dahlia breeding implies responsible and painstaking work on the preservation of tubers. But in order to save yourself from unnecessary trouble, you can grow annual flowers using seeds. Seeds are sown at the end of spring, but dahlias will please bloom only by August. For earlier flowering, seed germination is recommended.

Planting dahlias with tubers requires thorough preparation  and a number of nuances:

1. Dahlias calmly carry acidic soilsbut a neutral environment is best.
2. If the site has a soil with a very high acidity, reducing quenched lime into the soil will help to reduce it.
3. If acidity is not enough, the soil is enriched with peat.
4. After digging the site, in the fall, fertilizers such as humus or compost are applied to the soil.
5. In early spring, the earth is loosened and dug up, using a rake wood ash.
6. To dahlias were resistant to various diseases, every year you need to change the place for their planting.
7. Asters are very sensitive to infection with fungal diseases, so dahlias should not be planted where they grew up.

1. Site selection and preparation

The choice of landing site must be taken with all responsibility. Dahlia flowers do not tolerate drafts and shadows, so it is recommended to plant them on the calm side of the sunny sunshine.

Landing ground must have good drainage. Hollows are unacceptable, since excess fluid can accumulate in them, which adversely affects the plant. The soil must be enriched. nutrients  and have a low acidity.

The soil structure is improved by making manure, hardwood humus, various composts, straw, peat.

At clay soilsIt is necessary to increase water resistance. Do this using sand, gravel, or rock ash.

2. Tuber preparation

With the onset of tangible warming in the spring, the preparation of tubers begins, which has a number of features:

1. To clear tubers of the dried root system;
2. If there is damage, they should be cut off, and then treated with iodine or brilliant green;
3. Tubers are planted in a box of land enriched with nutrients so that they are visible above the surface of the earth. It is necessary to provide solar lighting and an air temperature of about 20 degrees. In this state, the tubers must remain for 14 days;
4. With the appearance of visible kidneys, tubers are divided into parts. It is necessary that on the piece was a kidney that already has a root neck;
5. It is recommended that the cut parts of the tubers, for a period, be grown in a box until the first shoots appear. Then the shoots are broken off, and the tubers are planted in open ground;
6. Cut cuttings can germinate, so they can also be planted in the soil. Those that take root, dig and transplant to a sunny area.

3. Outdoor landing technology

Planting dahlias in open soil has its own principles:

1. Planting dahlias is carried out exclusively in heated soil. Do it at the beginning of summer;
2. The pit for landing should be three times larger than the size of the root system;
3. The bottom of the pit is fertilized with manure and sprinkled with a thick layer of earth. This is done so that the roots of the plant do not receive a burn;
4. The dahlia tuber is carefully placed in the pit and instilled so that the stem of the flower by 2 centimeters goes into the ground;
5. After planting, you need to make a mulch from sawdust with peat, a layer of about 5 centimeters and water the plant abundantly.

How to care for dahlias

1. If the area with dahlias is mulled, then this will provide protection from slugs. It will save you from the hassle of weeding and loosening the soil and increase the rate of soil drying in hot summer days.
2. If there is no rain for a long time, it is recommended to fill the flower with water 2 times a week.
3. Watering in the summer should be moderately plentiful. Do not allow excess moisture to stagnate in the roots of the plant, this can lead to their decay.
4. In days of extreme heat, after watering, dahlias need to be spudded. This action will not allow moisture to evaporate.
5. When the time comes for the next watering, the land is scooped up and watering is carried out, after which they are again dumped.

1. Fertilizer

During the intensive growth of the plant and immediately before planting, different kinds  and fertilizer methods:

1. It is customary to fertilize dahlias with manure dissolved in water. Do this once every 14 days.
2. Initial feeding is carried out a week later, after planting in the soil. Then their introduction is done with an interval of 10 days. Florists recommend making indentations around the stem and fertilizing them, after which they should be buried with a small layer of earth.
3. A mixture of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and manure will be the perfect fertilizer for the flower in late spring.
4. In order not to reduce flowering, do not add in excess nitrogen fertilizers  in the spring.
5. Until mid-summer, fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus is ideal. For this, 5 tablespoons of superphosphate are bred in a bucket of water.
6. At the end of summer, they make one potash top dressing.

2. Prop

If you choose high-growing varieties of dahlias, you will need to install and fix the support. The flower has an empty stem, and increased wind can easily damage it. A high dahlia, you must tie it to the base of the support.

If the stem nevertheless breaks, the superimposed tire will help save the plant.  To do this, take a strong branch or a thin lath and fix it on the site of damage with a rope. The stem itself needs to be provided with reliable support so that it does not tilt in different directions.

3. Cropping

Cutting plants implies a number of features:

1. To achieve high-quality inflorescences, no more than 3 shoots should remain on the bush;
2. On each peduncle, it is advisable to leave only 2 buds;
3. In order not to inhibit the growth of a flower, dried and finished flowering buds must be removed;
4. If the dahlia bush is tall, the lower part of its stem must be disposed of from the shoots.

4. Pest and disease control

The young stalk of the flower is susceptible to attacks by slugs and double-tail. As soon as the first manifestations of the presence of pests appeared, it is necessary to carry out the processing of the plant. For these purposes irreplaceable assistantwill make a decoction of wormwood.

Apply it with the onset of darkness once a week. In the summer months, the bushes are sprayed with aphids and ticks.  Pests do not tolerate a soap solution, so it will be the best tool in this case.

How to dig a dahlia tubers

Each stage of digging a dahlia should be treated with extreme caution:

1. With the onset of the first significant cold weather, the stem of the plant needs to be cut, leaving only 5 centimeters above the ground.
2. Place the cut must be wrapped. Foil is perfect.
3. You need to start digging in the morning. The tubers will have a whole day to dry in the air, after which the remnants of the earth are easily removed from the root system, and the fragility of the tuberous neck is reduced.
4. 30 centimeters retreat from the stem and dig in a circle.
5. To cut long roots using a pitchfork. They are introduced into the ground and pushed out the entire root of the plant.
6. After digging up all the tubers, they are thoroughly washed under the pressure of water from the hose. Then let dry in air.

How to store tubers in winter

High-quality storage of tubers in the winter is the key to the success of their cultivation.

But for proper storage  You need to observe several conventions:

1. Tubers left in the winter should not be overdried, otherwise they will sprout weakly;
2. Visible damage must be removed and used to process the cuts of charcoal;
3. An excellent storage temperature would be 5 degrees with average room humidity. Ideally, a basement is suitable, preferably dry;
4. You can stack the tubers in a box with peat so that they are covered from above and below.
5. For better preservation of tubers, they need to be wrapped in a film, this will not allow moisture to evaporate and prevent drying out;
6. If there is no basement and tubers will have to be stored in a house or apartment, then you need to place them near a cool place, for example, a balcony;
7. Paraffin is an indispensable tool for storing dahlia tubers in the winter. Tubers are placed in melted paraffin for 5 seconds, the resulting film is allowed to dry and the procedure is repeated. Then take plastic bag  and sand is poured into it, and treated tubers are placed there. Before disembarkation, the paraffin film is removed.

With proper care, proper fit  and storage in winter, dahlias will become a decoration infield, and will please flowering to the very frosts.

Flowers dahlias (lat.Dahlia)  Astrov family - one of the most beautiful and long-flowering garden flowers, represented by a wide palette of colors and a variety of forms. They bloom from July to the very frosts, and this is the most important, in addition to beauty, the dignity of a dahlia. The first dahlia tubers were brought to Europe from Mexico at the end of the 18th century. The dahlia received its name in 1803 from the botanist Karl Wildenau, who named the dahlia plant in honor of the famous botanist, ethnographer and geographer from St. Petersburg, academician Johann Georgi. There are about thirty species and about 15,000 varieties of dahlias.

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Planting and caring for dahlias (in short)

• Landing:  from the second half of May to the second half of June.
• Digging:  in the fall, after the first frost.
• Storage:  at a temperature of 3-5 ˚C and humidity 60-70%.
• Bloom:  summer and fall.
• Lighting:  bright sunshine.
• The soil:  Any, but preferable, fatty garden loam with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.
• Watering:  plentiful, 1-2 times a week.
• Feeding:  organic and mineral every two weeks alternately.
• Garter, hilling, pinching:  Mandatory for tall varieties.
• Reproduction:  seeds, tubers.
• Pests:  slugs, earwigs, slobbery pennies, flower beetles, aphids.
• Disease powdery mildewbacterial cancer, growth, smut, gray rot  and viral mosaic.

Read more about growing dahlias below.

Features of growing dahlias

The forms, colors and varieties of the dahlia are so diverse that they can be used to decorate not only flower beds, but also border lines, as well as solo, even potted, plants. Dahlias are dazzlingly beautiful, but at the same time completely unpretentious. The main thing that is required for their successful growth and lush flowering is to choose the right place for planting, to ensure necessary composition  soil, timely watering and top dressing.

You need to buy seedlings no earlier than mid-spring, and the tubers must be fleshy and strong, with already noticeable, but not tall sprouts. Soft or dry tuber is better not to take.

How to grow dahlias

Growing dahlias is associated with the time-consuming digging and responsible storage of tubers, but if you are afraid of these chores, you can grow annual dahlias from seeds. Annual dahlias  as beautiful and unpretentious in culture, as well as perennial, and their choice is wide enough: Coltness Hybrids up to 50 cm high with plentiful non-double flowers of various colors; bronze-leafed Redskin; terry small Rigoletto; early Figaro ... You can, having bought seeds, sow them in the open ground in mid-May, but then they will bloom only by mid-August. If you want to achieve more early flowering, you have to germinate the seeds.

To do this, in early April you will need sow dahlia seeds  in greenhouses or plastic containers, using calcined sand as soil: seeds are poured onto a layer of sand, which is again sprinkled with sand on top, moistened well and covered with transparent polyethylene. Germinate seeds for about ten days at a temperature of 25-27 ° C, then sprouts need to be dived into separate pots. The soil mixture must be water-absorbing and loose, it can be bought, or it can be prepared: one part peat and sand and two parts sheet land. Three days before the dive, the soil should be treated with a hot solution of potassium permanganate (70 °) dark pink. After picking, seedlings are watered as the soil dries. In mid-May, it can be planted in the ground.

Where to plant dahlias

You need to start training with pick a landing place. A dahlia flower can not stand drafts, but it requires a well-ventilated and illuminated place, so you need to plant dahlias in a sunny area, protected from the wind. The soil on the site should be well-drained, permeable and nutritious. Dahlias can grow in soil with a lack or excess of acidity, but a slightly acidic or neutral environment will be optimal for them. If the soil is too acidic in the area (pH 5-4), add slaked lime to it; if the pH is more than 8.5, you can “acidify” the soil with peat.

In the autumn, when digging, enrich the area allocated for dahlias with humus and compost (3-5 kg \u200b\u200bper 1 m 3). In the spring before planting, again scatter mature compost (non-deciduous) and some wood ash on the plot and lay a rake on it. In order to rid the dahlias of diseases and prevent them from degenerating, it is advisable to change the place of planting every year, giving the soil rest from the dahlia for at least three years. Do not plant dahlias where asters or plants susceptible to fungal diseases grew before them.

In the photo: Dahlia propagation by dividing the tuber

Preparing Dahlia tubers for planting

In April, dahlia (tubers) roots should be prepared for planting: clean them from dry roots, remove damaged areas, treating all sections with green leaf. Then the tubers are planted in a container with nutrient soil or peat so that the dahlia tubers protrude 2-3 cm above the surface and keep them for two weeks at a temperature of at least 18 ° C in good light. As soon as the kidneys appear, the tubers are cut into pieces so that each has a kidney with a root neck. Sometimes one tuber gives five such parts. Tubers divided into parts need to be germinated for some time in the box, and then, removing side shoots that have reached a height of 10 cm, planted in the soil. Cut shoots can be used as cuttings: plant in the soil, put in a dark place and water well. The accustomed cuttings are planted in a permanent place. The division of tubers and cuttings is carried out to increase the amount of planting material and prevent degeneration of the plant. If you do not have such a need, you can not divide the tubers.

Planting Dahlias in the open ground

You can plant dahlias in the ground when the earth warms up, usually this is done in late May or early July. The dahlia pits should be three times larger than the root lump (40x40x40) so that the dahlia roots are completely immersed and 5-7 cm are left. Put a layer of rotted compost or manure at the bottom of the pit, then sprinkle the dung with earth so as not to burn the dahlia's roots , lay the sprouted tuber and dig it so that there are several centimeters of stem under the ground. If you have chosen a variety of tall dahlias, install and secure immediately the support for the future stem. After planting, pour plenty of seedlings with cold water, and mulch the soil around them with a five-centimeter layer of shallow bark or sawdust, after mixing them with peat or compost.

  Dahlia Care

How to care for dahlias

Plot mulching  with dahlias, in addition to protecting plants from slugs, it will give you the opportunity to abandon such tedious work as weeding and loosening the soil, and also will not allow the soil to dry out quickly on hot days. Watering dahlias should be plentifully 1-2 times a week (if it does not rain), but do not let moisture stagnate in the roots: dahlia tubers are prone to decay. In extreme heat, the earthing up after watering helps to retain moisture. Before the next watering, the soil from the stems needs to be scooped up, watered the plants, and then again spud.

Dahlia Fertilizer

In the process of growth, dahlias need to be fed every two weeks, alternating mineral fertilizers with organic: ammonium nitrate (15 g per 1 m 3), tincture of mullein 1:10 or bird droppings 1:20. With the advent of the first kidneys, superphosphate begins to be introduced and potash fertilizer  at the rate of 30 g per bucket of water (enough for 8 bushes).

Dahlia Support

Since the dahlia has a hollow stem, and strong wind or rain can break it, it is necessary tie up dahlia  to the support peg. If the stem nevertheless breaks down, try to put a splint on it: attach a strong branch to the stem, fix it and support the stem so that it does not bend. Timely and attentive care of dahlias can even save a broken shoot, which will reward you with beautiful flowering care.

Pruning dahlias

If you are not interested in quantity, but in the quality of inflorescences, do not leave more than three shoots in the bush, otherwise the inflorescences will be smaller in size and not so decorative. On each peduncle you need to leave 1-2 buds. Remove faded budsso that they do not delay the formation and growth of new ones. Throughout the season, try to remove the lower side shoots from the dahlia. high grades, these processes can then be used as cuttings. In stunted (pompom, cactus) and single dahlia bushes, lateral shoots can not be removed.

Dahlia Pests

Young juicy stalks of dahlias attract slugs, and buds attract earwigs, so when the first signs of pest aggression appear about once a week, treat bushes in the evening with decoctions of wormwood or celandine. In the heat, spray dahlias with systemic insecticides from thrips, aphids, ticks and caterpillars. Most of all pests, dahlias love aphids. Try Proven grandfather way  dealing with it: spraying plants with soapy water.

  Harvesting Dahlia tubers

After the first frost dahlia tubers need to be dug up, trim off the remaining foliage and pagons, leaving only five to ten centimeters of the stem. Some gardeners cut stems and leaves a few days before digging up the tubers, but if moisture gets on the cut part, the base of the stem can rot, so cut the stems and immediately cover the dahlias with aluminum foil. The neck of the tuber is particularly fragile, so start digging up tubers in the morning, in dry weather, so that they can dry out in the air and become less “brittle”. In addition, soil residues are easier to remove from dried tubers.

Digging Dahlia Tubers

Dig a plant on four sides at a distance of about 30 cm from the stem to cut off long, conductive roots, move the forks under the earthen lump and push it out of the ground. Thoroughly peel the clods of earth from the tubers and turn them over to dry. When you dig up all the tubers rinse  them from a garden hose from the soil, which contains microorganisms that carry diseases. Do not be late in harvesting tubers, because after the first frosts, warming can occur, and buds sleeping in tubers can wake up and begin to sprout, which is detrimental to plants at such a time.

  How to store dahlias in winter

Proper storage of dahlias in winter is 90% success in growing them. Tubers left for winter storage should not dry out too much, because in spring they produce weak shoots. Insufficient drying leads to the fact that the roots rot during storage. If any mechanical damage is found on the tubers, they need to be trimmed and then sprinkled with charcoal. Root necks, so that they do not rot during storage, are dusted with ash or chalk.

Best Stored Dahlia Tubers  at a temperature of 3-5 ° C with an air humidity of 60-70% in a well-ventilated area. A dry cellar is suitable for this, but vegetables stored nearby can create high humidity, increasing the risk of rot and fungal diseases in tubers. You can put tubers in a box on a layer of dry peat and sprinkle with peat, you can use sawdust of coniferous species or sand instead of peat. If the tubers suddenly begin to dry or wither, the insulating material is slightly moistened. If there is no ventilation in the basement, you will have to turn on the fan three times a week for half an hour.

Pictured: Storage of dahlia tubers in plastic bags

If you do not have a basement or a cellar, and you have to store dahlia tubers in the apartment, put the boxes with tubers in the coolest place (next to the balcony). You can put the tubers in plastic bags with insulating material (sawdust, sand, dry peat) and tie tightly. Some gardeners, wrapping each tuber in a newspaper, put them in a plastic bag, which they put in a cardboard box and put in a cool place, for example, on a glazed loggia. Only in this case, you will have to constantly monitor the temperature outside, so that a sharp cooling or freezing does not destroy your planting material.

Warm and humid rooms are the least suitable for storing dahlia tubers, but you can keep them even in such inappropriate conditions if you cover the tubers with paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a water bath, immerse the tuber in it for a second, let the film harden for a few seconds and again lower the tuber into liquid paraffin. After the waxing procedure, place the tubers with dry peat, sand or sawdust in a plastic bag and tie it tightly. Before planting, these tubers will need to be rubbed slightly so that the film is cracked.

During the winter, do not forget to inspect the tubers in order to be able to timely eliminate the possible appearance of rot. Affected areas should be cleaned to a healthy tissue and treated with charcoal powder from hardwood or brilliant green.

  Species and varieties of dahlias

Dahlias are classified according to the shape and structure of inflorescences, in modern culture there are 12 main classes of dahlias, but as new varieties appear, new classes also appear.

  So, the most popular varieties of dahlia:

Simple

Dahlias with a single row of flowers reaching a diameter of 10 cm, a height of 45 cm to 60 cm. Simple dahlias include yellow Hammer varieties of yellow, pink Princess Marie Jose, and reddish-orange Orangeade

Anemone

From one or more rows of marginal flowers, in the middle the flowers are elongated tubular. Inflorescences reach a diameter of 10 cm, a height of 60 cm to 90 cm. The most popular varieties are Vera Higgins of bronze color, yellow-purple Lucy, red Comet.

Collar collar

Dahlias are the same size, but higher - from 75 cm to 120 cm. They have one outer row of flowers, on top of it there is a row of shorter and twisted flowers of a different color, looking like a collar: Chimborazo (red with cream), La Gioconda (scarlet with gold), Claire de Luna (yellow with cream).

Pion-shaped

Dahlias are slightly larger - from 12 cm to 15 cm, flat marginal flowers from two or more, in the center - tubular flowers. In height, they reach the same dimensions as the collar ones. Fascination of lilac color and crimson red dahlia of Symphonia are popular.

Dahlias are very popular among garden flower lovers because of the long flowering period and spectacular appearance. At the same time, the dahlia family is represented by flowers of various shapes and colors. They are used not only in flower beds, but also as border and even potted plants.

The article talks about the features of growing dahlias in the open field, and also highlights the nuances of caring for them.

  Dahlia Overview

Dahlias (Dahlias) are representatives of the astro family. They have a large number of varieties, both in shape and in color. The plant has a long flowering, which begins in mid-summer and ends during the first autumn frosts.

   Figure 1. External features of dahlias

With its spectacular appearance  Dahlias are completely unpretentious. Propagated by modified underground shoots - root tubers. To date, breeders have bred more than 10 thousand varieties of dali (Figure 1).

  Variety of dahlias

Among a large number of cultivars, there are giants whose stem height exceeds 1 meter, and miniature plants in the form of small compact bushes. However, the main sign of classification is the structure of inflorescences (Figure 2).

Based on this, such groups of dali are distinguished:

• Single Row (Simple)
• Collar collar
• Anemone
• Pion-shaped
• Spherical
• Decorative
• Pompoms
• Cactus
• Semi-cactus
• Lotus (nymphaea)

Figure 2. Some popular flower species (from left to right): collar, peony, spherical, cactus

  Features of landing in the open ground

The timing of planting dahlias in open ground is determined by the climatic conditions of the area. For example, in the midland, they begin to be planted in the first ten days of June with grown tubers. In the southern regions, landing can be made earlier - in mid-May. At the same time, unforgiven divided plants that give young shoots are planted in the ground. In this case, the gardener needs to take care of sheltering them from possible spring frost.

Note:  For planting, you will need a pre-prepared site with dug holes and supports placed near them (for tall varieties). In this case, the distance between the holes should be half the height of the adult plant, and between the rows - not less than a meter. As supports, you can use both wooden and metal stakes, 160-180 cm long, which are driven to a depth of about 40 cm.

Landing is recommended in the evening or in cloudy weather. The planted plant is as close as possible to the support so that the top of the tuber is 5 cm below the ground level (Figure 3). At the same time, experienced gardeners advise to first shed strong cuttings of plants or specimens obtained from divided tubers in order to plant them together with a moist lump of earth. For ease of irrigation, it is necessary to fill up the planting pits not completely, or make ring-shaped holes around the planted plants. Seedlings must immediately be tied to a support and continue to garter as the plants grow.

  Planting and caring for annual dahlias

Annual dahlias can be grown both through seedlings and seeds. Experienced gardeners recommend giving preference to seedlings, since in this case you can get flowering plants in June. The cultivation process consists in sowing seeds in boxes with prepared soil, and then in planting young plants in open ground. A mixture of sand, peat and perlite, which is carefully shed before planting, is used as a nutrient substrate. Seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil, lightly sprinkled and sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

Note:  Usually, no complications occur during seedling cultivation. However, it is worth considering that watering should be moderate, since overmoistening of the soil can lead to the development of diseases.

Inoculated containers are recommended to be covered with glass or plastic wrap  and leave in a bright warm place. After the appearance of the first shoots, the shelter can be gradually removed. Reinforced seedlings are dived into separate pots filled with a nutrient mixture of sand, peat and sod land, the volume of which should be at least half of the total. In this case, the first leaves of the planted plant should be on the same level with the soil.

Rooted seedlings are fed with any complex fertilizer in half the dose. After the appearance of the fourth pair of leaves on the plant, pinching the stem is carried out. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place when the threat of spring frost passes. In this case, the seedlings are located at a distance of 30-60 cm from each other, depending on the size of the plants. In the first days after planting in open ground, it is recommended to cover the seedlings. Sowing seeds immediately in open ground is practiced in late May, when the soil warms up to a sufficient depth. The sown bed is covered with polyethylene and kept under cover until emergence.

   Figure 3. Step-by-step instructions for planting tubers in open ground

One-year-old dahlias, like other representatives of this family, are quite unpretentious, and therefore do not need any special feeding. However, one should know that the root system of dali is very sensitive to an excess of moisture. Therefore, when choosing a plot for flowers, make sure that the soil has good moisture permeability, because the need for moisture for them increases only during a drought.

  Planting and care of perennial varieties

Perennial dahlias are beautiful unpretentious flowers that delight the eye with a riot of colors and a variety of shapes. Shrubs prefer sunny places protected from the wind. They grow well on all soils, except wetland. Outdoor planting is preceded by preliminary preparationduring which the tubers of flowers are cleaned of dried roots and planted in boxes filled with a substrate that retains moisture well.

The containers are kept in a well-lit room at a constant temperature of + 18 + 22 degrees. After the appearance of sprouts, they begin to divide the tubers. It is produced with a sharp knife, being careful not to damage the roots. Each separated part should carry several kidneys. Tubers can be immediately planted in open ground, or left in boxes to speed up the onset of flowering.

At the bottom of the planting fossa, add a little compost or humus, then lay the tubers and gently sprinkle with earth. At the same time, the root neck should not be buried too deep to prevent decay. In the first week after planting, seedlings can be watered daily, then watering must be reduced, otherwise the tubers will begin to rot.

You can find more information about planting these flowers in the video.

  Dahlia Care

Perennial dahlias do not need special care. It will be enough to provide them with optimal conditions for growth and flowering. So, on dry days it is necessary to speed up watering. It is recommended that grown plants be buried to a height of 15 cm and tied to a support, repeating the garter as the flower grows. After watering or heavy rain, the soil under the bushes should be loosened, while removing weeds.

To prolong the period and the abundance of flowering, it is recommended to remove not only faded buds, but also all side shoots of large-flowered varieties. To increase the number of inflorescences, it is recommended to pinch the stem over the fourth pair of leaves.

  Fertilizer

Perennial dahlias need regular feeding. It can be carried out using organic and mineral fertilizers. Nitrogen Feeding  contribute to the growth of green mass and, accordingly, the deterioration of the quality of flowering. For this reason, it is not recommended to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers for feeding. The choice of type of fertilizing is determined by the composition of the soil. So, soil rich in humus needs more mineral dressing, and recently developed soils suitable organic.

Feeding the dahlia is carried out by the following methods:

• During the digging of the site;
• Simultaneously with planting;
• Root and extra root method.

So, during the autumn digging organic fertilizerswhich did not have enough time to decompose enough: manure, compost (3-6 kg per 1 sq. m.), bird droppings (at the rate of 1-2 kg per 1 sq. m.), and in the spring - wood ash, peat, superphosphate . Ammonium nitrate, urea, potassium salt and potassium chloride are easily washed out of the arable layer and are not absorbed by the roots of the plant. Therefore, it is impractical to introduce these substances during the digging of the soil.

If the soil contains a sufficient amount of organic matter, it would be wiser to apply fertilizer directly when planting in the planting holes. For this purpose, dung or sheet compost (humus) in combination with wood ash or furnace soot is best suited (based on 3-4 tablespoons of ash per 1 bucket of compost). During planting, a quarter bucket of the mixture is poured into each hole, mixed with soil and tubers are planted.

  Support

Since dahlias have hollow stems inside that break when wind gusts, tall varieties need to be tied to a support. As supports, both wooden and metal stakes can be used (Figure 4). At the same time, supports from coniferous trees are much stronger than from hardwood. It is additionally recommended to impregnate the bottom of the wood stakes. special compounds  against decay, for example, with a 7% solution of iron sulfate. More durable are metal supportswhich can be made from the remains of pipes or pieces of reinforcement, the diameter of which is from 12 to 20 mm.

   Figure 4. Types of flower supports

It is important to know that the supporting pegs are installed along with or in front of the tubers, as driving a peg near an adult plant, you risk damaging its rhizome. For the cultivation of low varieties, supports 30 cm high are well suited, tall varieties need the same high support - at least 1.5 meters.

  Pruning

In order to increase the number of inflorescences, tall varieties lend themselves to forming pruning, that is, they remove all lateral shoots that appear from the axils of the leaves. This process is called pinching. It must be carried out regularly from the moment of landing to the main place until the buds appear on the main stems. You should be aware that dahlias such as collar, dwarf, and all small-flowered dahlias are not stepson (Figure 5).

   Figure 5. Basic crop trimming methods

It is also recommended to remove excess buds, especially if the flowers are intended for cutting. As a rule, the middle bud in each group of inflorescences is removed, since it is he who has the shortest peduncle. In addition, in tall varieties, it is customary to also remove the lower leaves that cover the root neck and slow down the ripening of tubers. The dahlia grown from the tuber leaves the two strongest shoots, and the cuttings - only one. In the process of flowering, it is necessary to remove faded buds that spoil decorative look  bush.

  Pests

More often than others, young specimens with juicy stems, leaves and petals are affected by pests. So, on the delicate petals of the future flower earwigs settle, as a result of the activity of which the plant buds acquire an ugly appearance. These insects can be defeated by spraying with decoctions of bitter herbs (wormwood, celandine).

Ordinary slugs can be very harmful, which can be collected manually. Among the pests are also called thrips and caterpillars scoop. And the most common pest of these flowering plants  is an aphid. They struggle with it by folk methods, washing off leaves with an ash-soap solution, spraying bushes with infusions of onion husks and garlic, or with the help of other biological and chemicals  (Aktara, Decis, Fitoverm).

Dahlias are attacked by a red spider mite, which is particularly active in summer drought. By drinking plant sap, the tick weakens the plants, causing them to dry out. In order to prevent damage spider mite  It is recommended to spray the leaves of the bushes with cold water during a drought. For the treatment of affected plants, special insecticides are used.

  Digging tubers

Autumn work in the garden for the care of dahlias consists in digging tubers and laying them for winter storage. Tubers can be started to dig out after the plant leaves the flowering period, and its aerial part dries. It is recommended to carry out this procedure on the first warm frost-free day to prevent premature awakening of the kidneys.

Unfading stems are trimmed 3-4 cm higher from the root neck, then tubers are removed from the soil with a shovel. They are placed in boxes and stored for several weeks in a cool and humid room. Then, the nests of tubers should be cleaned of dry scales and small roots, process the places of cuts and send for storage.

The video shows how to dig tubers annual varieties.

  Winter dahlia storage

Prepared tubers are stored in winter in crates, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of earth 3 cm thick. Top of the tubers must also be completely sprinkled with soil. Boxes with planting material are kept in storage with high humidity  air at a temperature of + 1 + 7 degrees (Figure 6).

   Figure 6. Features of winter storage of tubers

It is sometimes practiced to store tubers in a pelleted form, that is, coated with a layer of clay and dried. In an apartment, the dahlia planting material is stored in tightly tied plastic bags, sprinkling the tubers with some dry insulating material, for example, sawdust, ash, peat, sand. The most reliable way to store tubers in warm rooms is to use paraffin. Planting material  dipped in melted paraffin, which after drying forms a reliable layer that not only protects the tubers from adverse factors from the outside, but also prevents the risk of drying out.