Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases. How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot Is it possible to grow a street chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemum is a beautiful flower that strikes with an abundance of color and a variety of colors. From year to year, flower growers are trying to bring out more and more varieties of this representative of chamomile. Indoor chrysanthemums are very easy to care for and are increasingly becoming the main decoration of houses.

Did you know?After buying a chrysanthemum, it is better to send it to "quarantine" and protect it from the rest indoor plants for 2-3 weeks.

Most often, it is difficult for novice growers to grow a chrysanthemum on their own, while maintaining its decorative appearance.

In this article, we will talk about the features of caring for a room chrysanthemum and how to properly grow a plant and transplant it so that the chrysanthemum will delight you with its beautiful decorative look.

Features of caring for indoor chrysanthemums

Indoor chrysanthemum is a rather unpretentious plant and there should be no problems with caring for it. At proper care for a room chrysanthemum at home, flowering will begin in 2.5-3 months (provided that you bought a non-flowering plant).

Proper care of a chrysanthemum also includes regular feeding of the plant, which will provide it with active and abundant growth.

Important!To get a beautiful lush bush correct shape blooming profusely and with a dense green mass, you can use drugs that "inhibit" the growth of the stem, and the growth of flowers and green mass is activated.

In order for the chrysanthemum to please you with its appearance, it is necessary to maintain the temperature, as well as observe the rules of lighting and watering. In order for your flower not to lose its aesthetics, it is necessary to properly carry out preventive measures.

How to choose a flower location

Indoor flowers (and chrysanthemums are no exception) require care. Caring for them begins with choosing the right place for growing. West or east windows are best.

The south side will not work - direct sunlight can burn the leaves of the flower, and if the plant lives on the north window, the buds may freeze and will not open in spring.

Lighting requirements

Chrysanthemum loves lighting, but direct sunlight can harm it. It is best to place the chrysanthemum on a well-lit balcony and, if it is too hot outside, the flower should be shaded.

Temperature and humidity for a flower

In questions about how to care for indoor chrysanthemums, the question of the temperature at which you need to keep the flower comes to the fore. In order for the temperature for the chrysanthemum to be favorable, it must be observed depending on the season.

In summer, a temperature of 20-23 degrees is quite suitable for a flower, but closer to winter, the temperature must be lowered - 15-18 degrees in autumn and 3-8 ° C - in winter.

Did you know?In order for the chrysanthemum to withstand the heat more easily and feel good in dry air, it can be placed in a ventilated place or for a while in a draft.

If the chrysanthemum is near a heater or convector, the air is naturally dry and additional humidification will be needed - you can put a container of water next to the pot.

How to plant in a pot, soil requirements and planting scheme

Before you start planting chrysanthemums, you need to figure out what kind of land is needed for a room chrysanthemum. A substrate consisting of garden or turf soil, peat and humus, or any other organic fertilizer is best suited for growing.

Important!Before planting the chrysanthemum in the substrate, it is necessary to disinfect the soil by treating it with boiling water. After such treatment, it is imperative to dry the soil to a loose consistency, or you can steam the soil in the oven - this will help get rid of pests living in damp soil.

You also need to prepare planting material, most often it is cut off from mother plant with a sharp knife. Plant the prepared cuttings in a large container so that the root system develops well and the flower grows stronger.

At the bottom of such a container, it is better to make a couple of drainage holes and put the pot in a tray. Cuttings need to be buried a little in the ground. Water sparingly but infrequently, observing how much the soil dries.

The first roots will appear in 20-25 days and that's when they can be planted in flower pot with the same substrate. To do this, the material is carefully transplanted together with a lump of earth into a pot in which the plant will be constantly.

Care rules

In order for the chrysanthemum to feel good in the room, it must be properly watered and ensure good humidity in the room.

One of the most important components in growing chrysanthemums at home is feeding them, because the soil cannot always be saturated with a sufficient amount of vitamins and microelements.

As for pruning, this is a necessary measure not only for the formation of a bush, but also for the prevention of diseases.

How to water and spray

Chrysanthemum loves good hydration, but the substrate should not be soggy. It is better to water the flower with warm, settled water as soon as you notice the drying of the top layer of the soil.

During the most active growth (growing season), chrysanthemum should be watered more actively, but not to allow stagnation of water in the root system.

The spraying procedure is not the best important element, however, you should not forget about it. It is best to spray the plant early in the morning or in the evening, at dusk. You can spray warm water that does not contain chlorine.

Did you know?Spraying will save your plant not only from drought, but will also be a good prevention of possible diseases.

Spraying is also necessary if the chrysanthemum is next to the heater.

If you notice the first signs of pests or disease, drugs (fungicides or insecticides) can be added to the spray water, or you can spray with soapy water.

Features of feeding room chrysanthemum

The root system of chrysanthemum grows very quickly, and over time, those nutrients contained in the soil becomes insufficient. At such moments, the chrysanthemum needs nourishment.

Important!You can feed the chrysanthemum only until the buds form.

In order for the plant to please you with abundant and timely flowering, it is fed with mineral fertilizers. For this, a solution of potassium monophosphate is suitable (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10) or a fertilizer containing 1 part nitrogen, 3 parts phosphorus and 2 parts potassium.

Top dressing is carried out every 10 days during the period of the most active growth, but if you notice that the soil is weakened, you can feed it with liquid organic matter and repeat this procedure after 4 days. A mullein is suitable for this, but it is better to use chicken droppings.

Pruning

Chrysanthemum is pruned after flowering to form a bush and remove diseased shoots. It is best to do this with a sharp, disinfected pruner and never break off the branches.

Surely there is no person in the world who does not know about the existence of such a beautiful flower as a chrysanthemum. Most often it can be found in various beautiful bouquets... However, you can also have a potted chrysanthemum.

In this case, the plant can be safely grown both at home and in the garden. Many people believe that this flower is very moody, but in fact it is not. If you know how to care for a potted chrysanthemum, you can enjoy beautiful flowers for a long time. However, first you should learn a little more about this beauty.

General classification

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are flowers whose inflorescences do not exceed 80 mm. If we are talking about large-flowered plants, then these parameters will be much higher.

Plants are also distinguished by the shape of their inflorescences. The flower can be pompom, double-row, double, semi-double. Sometimes chrysanthemums are simply called spherical. In this case, we are talking about several varieties at once.

Also, a chrysanthemum in a pot may differ in the period when it begins to bloom. Some plants enter this phase early, others ripen a little later, and still others delight with beautiful inflorescences later than everyone else. It is recommended to pay attention to this classification for those who plan in a pot by collecting and germinating seeds. In this case, you should not purchase a late-flowering variety. This is due to the fact that the seed material simply does not have time to ripen, respectively, such seeds simply will not germinate.

If we talk about the height of plants, then they are border and medium. In the first case, the flowers grow up to 30 cm, the second category can grow up to 50 cm.

These are the main distinctive features types of homemade chrysanthemum in a pot. How to care for an unusual plant? Let's consider this issue in detail.

Soil and pot

First of all, you need to think about preparing the soil. If the flower was brought from a specialized nursery, then in this case for some time the beauty can be left in the "factory" substrate. You can replace the soil after the chrysanthemum has faded for the first time.

In this case, you will need to choose a larger pot. It is best to give preference to ceramic products. In order for a chrysanthemum in a pot to feel good at home, a little expanded clay or pebbles must be poured at the bottom of the selected container. This drainage layer will help prevent root rot of the plant.

If the soil is bought in a store, then it is better to give preference to formulations prepared specifically for flowering plants. However, it is best to prepare the substrate yourself. To do this, you need to mix two parts of turf, 1 part of leafy soil and one part of humus and coarse sand.

You can also add a little chicken droppings to the soil, since chrysanthemum loves this top dressing very much. However, you should not oxidize the soil too much.

Also, during the care of a chrysanthemum in a pot, it needs periodic loosening of the earth. However, you should not dig it too deeply.

Transfer

When leaving a potted chrysanthemum at home, it periodically needs this procedure, which is carried out annually when it comes to young plant... When the flower reaches maturity, the transplant can be done every two years.

The main condition of this procedure is that it is necessary to replace the entire soil, but its composition should not change. It is better to choose a new container for a plant 2-3 more in diameter. The volume of the pot is increased by approximately one and a half liters.

If we talk about the transplant procedure itself, then everyone can cope with it. First, you need to remove the plant from the old pot along with a lump of earth on the rhizome. In this case, you need to try not to damage the delicate roots of the flower.

After that, the chrysanthemum can be placed in a new container and gently tamped the soil. After that, the chrysanthemum in the pot is well watered and set in its rightful place. At first, she may look a little tired, but this is due to the fact that she is getting used to a new environment for herself.

Conditions

If we talk about chrysanthemums, then they are not very thermophilic. It is best to maintain the temperature regime within the range of +12 ... +18 degrees. If the room is more than 23 degrees, then the plant will feel bad and stop blooming. Therefore, in winter, a chrysanthemum in a pot does not need special insulation. Also, do not keep the flower too close to the radiator.

If the rest of the time in the room is too hot, then it is better to transfer the plant to the balcony. Only under normal temperature conditions will the plant feel comfortable and will soon bloom.

The first signs of an improper temperature are that the foliage of the flower dries quickly and falls off.

You also need to monitor the level of humidity. It is best to do periodic spraying with water. It is also recommended to install a bowl of water next to the plant. But pouring liquid into the pan of the pot is not worth it. In this case, the rhizome of the plant will constantly be in a humid environment, which will lead to the death of an unusual flower.

If we talk about lighting, then in this case it is worth making sure that the plant receives the required amount of lighting. However, direct sunlight should be avoided. They can burn the sensitive petals and flowers of the chrysanthemum.

It is also important to maintain the correct length of daylight hours. As a rule, if we are talking about a homemade chrysanthemum in pots, care for it must be careful if we mean the length of daylight hours. In this case, the sunlight should feed the beauty for 6-8 hours. In this case, it is better to give preference to diffused light, however, it is not worth placing a vessel with a flower too far from the light, this can lead to negative consequences for a sensitive plant.

Proper feeding and watering

It should be borne in mind that domestic chrysanthemums in pots are distinguished by their exactingness to the introduction of water. However, too much waterlogging can lead to fungal diseases and negatively affect the condition of the root system. To avoid these negative consequences, it is necessary to ensure that high-quality drainage is installed in the pot. In this case, you need to monitor the pallet. As soon as moisture accumulates in it, it must be removed immediately. Otherwise, the roots will start to rot.

For the full growth of chrysanthemums, it is necessary to add water at least 1-2 times every 7 days. In this case, the soil should not be allowed to dry out. It is best to settle the water before watering. When it comes to plumbing, then in this case, you must definitely think about cleaning the liquid. The water temperature should be at room temperature. If it is too cold or hot, it can provoke plant diseases.

It should also be borne in mind that chrysanthemum foliage has a predisposition to dehydration. To avoid such consequences, it is recommended to periodically spray. It is also important to keep the leaves clean. To do this, they can be periodically wiped from dust. In addition, the owners of a terry beauty must necessarily remove all dried leaves in a timely manner.

If speak about correct feeding homemade chrysanthemums in a pot, then in this case you can use dressings that are sold in finished form... As a rule, they are concentrated solutions that must be diluted with water. Therefore, before use, you must carefully study the instructions. Such fertilizers, as a rule, are applied 1-2 times every 10 days.

Bush formation

Looking at the photo of chrysanthemums in pots, many are surprised why the plant standing in the kitchen does not look as neat.

This is usually due to the fact that experienced florists periodically pinch young shoots of the plant. As a rule, this is done at a distance of 10-15 cm, but it all depends on the specific type of flower. If you do not devote time to flower formation, then this can lead to the formation of a single tall stem, on which scanty flowers will be located.

Also, many are interested in the reproduction process of this unusual plant... There are three options for this procedure.

Budding

As a rule, after the chrysanthemum is dormant, it begins to actively spawn new shoots. They must be carefully separated from the main bush and planted in separate pots. Thanks to this method, about 5-6 new seedlings can be obtained from one plant. The transplant process uses the same methods that were described earlier. With proper care, the first flowers can be expected after 6 months.

Cuttings

Chrysanthemums reproduce excellently in this way too. However, it should be borne in mind that the success of the procedure in this case is much lower.

To get even more unusual flowers, it is necessary to separate a few lateral stems, which look the most powerful. After that, the original cuttings are cut to a length of 10-12 cm and lowered into moist soil until the first shoots appear.

To speed up this process, cover the pot with the new seedling with cellophane to create a greenhouse effect. At the next stage, the container with a young seedling is removed to a warm place. Moreover, it must be regularly ventilated and watered. When new shoots appear, you can move the plant to a sunny place.

Growing from seeds

The way will fit for those who are ready to wait a little longer than in the previous methods. In this case, the seeds of the mature plant are harvested after flowering. The next step is to lay the seed in the soil and fill it with 1 cm river sand... After that, the container should be covered with foil and placed in a fairly cool place... After a few weeks, the first shoots should appear on the surface. After that, the container can be transferred to a lighted place.

How to care after flowering

As a rule, an amazing plant blooms for several months. When this period comes to an end and there are practically no new buds on the chrysanthemum, and the stems diverge slightly to the sides, this is a sign that the time for rest has come.

In this case, it is necessary to cut the branches to the very base. After that, you need to shed the soil well and move the chrysanthemum to a cooler area. In this case, you should not cover the pot so as not to provoke the appearance of fungal formations.

If the plant is at rest, then do not over-water it. As a rule, this condition lasts until spring. With the onset of the first warm days, you can move the plant to its usual place and continue with standard care.

Diseases and pests

Also chrysanthemum can suffer from powdery mildew... This fungus usually appears as a grayish bloom on foliage. To get rid of this problem, fungicide treatment is necessary. It is also best to move the plant away from other crops.

Possible problems

Most often, the owners of these plants are faced with the fact that they wither. In this case, there can be a huge number of reasons. First of all, it is worth checking the bush for pests and diseases. In some situations, improper care leads to such problems.

If the chrysanthemum does not bloom, then first of all it should be borne in mind that this usually happens in the autumn. It all depends on the characteristics of the variety.

Finally

Chrysanthemum is an amazing plant. With proper care, it will always delight with long flowering. However, it must be borne in mind that, like any indoor beauty, she needs attention.

In late summer or early fall in flower shops and retail outlets colorful pots with chrysanthemums appear. Many people mistakenly think that these are annuals that can be taken out in the trash in winter. However, these bushes, with proper care, will delight with flowering for more than one year.

Indoor chrysanthemums - species

Among this riot of colors, at first, you cannot tell that all the pots differ from each other: the size and shape of the buds, the leaves and the type of crown. There are four types, among which indoor chrysanthemum flowers are divided into:

chinese indoor chrysanthemum related to hybrids with simple large double flowers, the plant is tall and grows up to 130 cm;
from the Canary Islands came to us shrub species, it grows up to a meter in height, in warm regions it can be grown in open ground;
the record holder for the number in our markets - indian look, as he feels better on windowsills and balconies;
bright balls - representatives korean look, they are in great demand.

How to care for a room chrysanthemum?

Correct care is the key to the flowering of the bush. It starts from the first days after purchase and continues even after flowering. Sometimes there is an opinion that caring for a room chrysanthemum is difficult and there is no guarantee of flowering for the next season. However, in many ways, the flower growers themselves are to blame, because they are trying to care for the chrysanthemum in the same way as for ordinary green plants on the windowsill.

Soil for indoor chrysanthemum

Land for room chrysanthemum is not something difficult or rare on sale. The soil is perfect for flowering indoor plants, it is universal for all types of chrysanthemums. It is important to feed the plant for good growth and flowering. Indoor chrysanthemum loves chicken droppings as a top dressing, it must be added in dosage, otherwise the soil will be too acidic. For the safety of the plant, the ground is always pierced in the oven. If the task is to get the maximum result, you can mix the ingredients yourself:

two parts of sod land;
part of deciduous;
part of the humus;
part of the sand, but with coarse grains.

Pot for indoor chrysanthemum

You can look after a new flowerpot for your green pet only for the next season:

How to care for a room chrysanthemum after purchase?

After a change of place, any living creature needs time to adapt and get used to it. On the other hand, such plants in stores pass special processing, and the soil in the pot will be transportable. You can save the flower, for this there are quite simple recommendations, caring for a room chrysanthemum after purchase is as follows:

Indoor chrysanthemum - flowering

We purchase flowering bushes so that the bright colors of the buds decorate the windowsill. However, making a bush bloom is not easy. This is often the result of improper care. It also happens that a room chrysanthemum bush needs help to bloom, home care needs to be corrected:

the plant will bloom only at temperatures above 18 ° C, the bush does not feel well in extreme heat;
the flowering period will prolong the correct watering, when it turns out to maintain a balance and prevent the soil from drying out, in the morning and in the evening do not forget about spraying with water;
you cannot fertilize the ground before or after flowering, we feed the indoor chrysanthemum only after the opening of the buds - poor soil and little dressing common reason lack of flowering;
potash and phosphorus fertilizers have a beneficial effect on the appearance of buds;
if you do not pinch the shoots in time, the bush will stand green and lush, but without buds (it will not work to correct the situation, so you cannot forget about the formation of shoots);
when the daylight hours are less than seven hours, the plant does not have enough strength to bloom, it is important to provide a sufficient amount of light and heat.

Indoor chrysanthemum - care after flowering

The dormant period is a prerequisite for the further life of any plant. But it is not enough to cut off the faded buds from the shoots, competent wintering will help to prolong the life of the flower. When your indoor chrysanthemum has faded, there are four possible solutions for what to do next:

How to propagate indoor chrysanthemum?

When your chrysanthemum has grown stronger and gave young shoots, it can be propagated. There are several ways how indoor chrysanthemum reproduces:

Transplanting a room chrysanthemum

Young plants need a new pot every season. Adult plants feel quite comfortable in the same flowerpot for two years in a row. Before transplanting an indoor chrysanthemum, you should prepare it. We replace the soil completely, but keep the recipe for its composition. Each subsequent flowerpot should be one and a half liters more, and a couple of centimeters wider. The algorithm of actions is no different from planting young plants: do not forget about the drainage layer, we slightly compact the soil at the roots.

How to prune indoor chrysanthemums?

In addition to pruning after flowering, pruning is used to form a bush. In the question of how to care for indoor chrysanthemums in a pot, this moment is not the last:

the beginning of pruning for formation falls on the fifteenth day after planting the plant in a pot;
a piece with several leaves is cut from a stem about 12 cm long;
then start;
after another two weeks, new shoots can be found in the sinuses.

How to water indoor chrysanthemum?

One of the difficulties for a gardener is watering a room chrysanthemum. Here you will have to constantly maintain a balance between wet and wet soil. The classic solution with a saucer or a tray of water will not work either, this will lead to rotting of the roots. The varieties that can be grown in a pot were originally garden varieties - we do not neglect spraying, we carry out the procedure only in the morning.

Diseases of the room chrysanthemum

Frequent fungal diseases include verticillary wilting. This is one of the reasons why the leaves of the room chrysanthemum dry. Of these fungal diseases, one should be afraid and, and septoria is not delivered less problems... Among the viral ailments, chrysanthemum is threatened by aspermia, dwarfism, ring spot and mosaic.

Luxurious inflorescences in autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from its congeners in the open field in the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to the lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding to care, grow well, bloom profusely and multiply easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Compositae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in the pot, care at home will then be much easier. Good developed plant, intended to be kept indoors, will continue to bloom on the windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after independent propagation by cuttings or root suckers, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in the store.

Street chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and house entrance. After flowering, the stems are cut, the containers with the roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If street chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need Fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Potted Chrysanthemum Varieties

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. The inflorescences can be smaller or the same size as the open field plants. Varieties are often grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum indian

In nature, it is relatively low herbaceous plant... The leaves are jagged, green-gray in color. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on windowsills and balconies.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species with white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms with a height of 20–25 cm. Today there are a large number of various forms and varieties that feel good in the room and are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive to cold period time.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

"Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with big amount large yellow inflorescences.
"Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
"Morifolium" is a variety with large, simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. Leaves are deep green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. On the upper side of the leaf blade, pinpoint glands are noticeable. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums are simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Buy a plant in flower shop or accepted as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light is suitable that is provided by placing the pot on a plastic or wooden windows facing west and east. The rays hit at noon can cause leaf burns; in this situation, it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with 6-8 hours of daylight in October or November (depending on the region).

A comfortable temperature for a room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, which is more demanding in terms of keeping conditions, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in the summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Indoor chrysanthemum prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnant water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

The substrate should not be allowed to dry out.
In autumn and winter, watered once a week in the morning.
Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
In hot weather, water is sprayed near indoor plants to reduce the air temperature.
Used for watering and spraying the settled water. If it is tough, then white bloom accumulates on the soil surface.
Avoid getting drops on flowers.

Profusely blooming chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Liquid dressing is carried out once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. The potted plant is fed about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future you do not regulate the growth of shoots, then several long stems appear, which reduces decorativeness.

Pinching of rapidly growing shoots is performed. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will need 2 or 3 treatments.
Large-flowered hybrids can be shaped like a tree by shortening the main shoot and cutting off the lower branches.
Pinching buds that begin to wither helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed if flowering is delayed. Selectively pinching the tops of the flower stalks will allow the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants require a renewal of the substrate. They are transferred into a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1: 1: 1). You can use ready-made potting soil.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as a loose structure, lightness, moisture content and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplanting, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants - with a plastic bag. Provide diffused lighting at first, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend pruning the stems, leaving short areas above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed to a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in as it was on the windowsill in the room. The third option: to stimulate shoot growth and formation compact bush pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will sprout and bloom.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root suckers (babies). Young plants can be grown from these additional shoots. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the plant deepening at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

Young shoots are cut from an adult plant.
Fill transparent Plastic container from cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
Cuttings are planted, covered with a lid from the container.
After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seeds. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually at seed reproduction chrysanthemums varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to a lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of spots of a grayish-yellow or brown color with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is associated with poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the lack of buds and flowers are lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens when there is an excess of fertilizing and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. For these fungal infections, they are treated with fungicides for indoor plants. Chrysanthemum is damaged by aphids, black midges sciarids, soil mites, springtails. The leaves are treated with a solution of the drug Aktellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, the flowers are taken out onto the balcony. Window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, they change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended to carefully consider the choice of substrate. Typically, pathogens and plant pests are found in the land brought from the garden and vegetable garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, they will delight with flowering for a long time.

Flowers chrysanthemums (lat.Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Asteraceae family. The genus includes about 30 species, representatives of which grow in zones with cool and temperate climate and mostly in Asia. In the garden culture, chrysanthemum has been known for more than a thousand years, and the plant got to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown outdoors, but there are species that do well in greenhouses and at home.

Planting and caring for chrysanthemums (in short)

Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C, in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly damp all the time.
Air humidity: morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle is recommended.
Top dressing: during the period of active growth, an adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When feeding with organic solutions in a low concentration, observe intervals of 4 days. With the onset of bud formation, feeding is stopped.
Rest period: after flowering, cut off the shoots and place the pot in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to release new shoots.
Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years.
Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely seeds.
Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennies.
Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.

Home flower chrysanthemum - features

Home chrysanthemum is not large in size, since it is grown by artificially stopping its growth with specially developed preparations. Although there were cases that a garden-sized plant was obtained from the acquired cutting of a home chrysanthemum.

Usually indoor chrysanthemums are low-growing varieties of mulberry or Chinese chrysanthemums, which are abundantly flowering bushes with a height of 15 to 70 cm.Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, in addition the same varieties of home chrysanthemums differ in the shape of the flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in home culture.

Chrysanthemum blooms at home, usually in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, it should be created for the plant optimal conditions and follow certain rules of care.

Chrysanthemum care at home

How to care for chrysanthemums

What conditions does a home chrysanthemum require? How to care for a chrysanthemum in an apartment? Firstly, you need to establish a comfortable temperature regime for it, secondly, observe the required level of illumination, and thirdly, maintain the water balance that is optimal for the flower.

It is difficult to call a chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, therefore in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in autumn-spring at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is with the observance of this temperature regime many buds are tied, and the flowering of the chrysanthemum is long and abundant.

As for lighting, growing chrysanthemums in a pot is carried out on the windowsills of windows oriented to the east or west, since on the southern windows the flowers can wither from the excess of the sun, and on the northern ones they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best of all on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real heat, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.

During the active growth period, you will need to pinch and prune the chrysanthemum to form a dense and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first and foremost correct watering... Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly moist all the time. Caring for chrysanthemums at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, however, excess moisture in the pot and pallet must also not be allowed.

In hot weather, it is advisable to spray chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so badly, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

Chrysanthemum transplant

Caring for home potted chrysanthemums involves the annual transplanting of young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be transplanted once every two to three years. As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1, and in order for the flowering of the chrysanthemum to be abundant, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Don't plant chrysanthemums in acidic soil, they don't like that. Before filling new pot soil mixture, a drainage layer should be put in it, and the substrate should be spilled with boiling water and dried.

Chrysanthemum feeding

Caring for a home chrysanthemum requires the introduction of fertilizers into the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral dressing as potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1: 3: 2. Chrysanthemum reacts well to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires the application of mineral fertilizers to the soil every 10 days, and the mullein solution (1 part of the fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Chrysanthemum is fed until the beginning of bud formation.

Chrysanthemum care after flowering

As soon as the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be put into a dormant state. Cut off its shoots and place the pot with the plant in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to release new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a large container and returned to its previous conditions.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums in the apartment

Reproduction of chrysanthemum cuttings

The easiest way to propagate homemade chrysanthemum is green, non-lignified cuttings. Cut as cuttings from a branch side shoots about 10 cm long, remove the leaves from their lower part and then put the cuttings in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted in several pieces in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil is compacted around them and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots, the tops of the cuttings are pinched.

You can plant cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with cuttings with a plastic cap to create a greenhouse effect. The cap is removed daily for a while for ventilation and condensation is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is removed from the pot, carefully released root system from the soil, wash and divide the plant with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. The cuts on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the way we have already described.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? The best thing by seed method Korean varieties and hybrids breed. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate fried at a temperature of 110-130 º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. As a substrate, you can also use flower soil purchased in a store, which should also be disinfected before planting. Close up the seeds perennial varieties not necessary, they are only lightly pressed to the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. They contain crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, ventilating, removing condensation from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as the need arises.

Seedlings should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the conditions of the room.

At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplanting, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra, so that they take root faster and begin to develop. In the future, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to care for them, already as for adult plants.

As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing blooming chrysanthemums in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.

Chrysanthemum pests and diseases

Chrysanthemum diseases

In improper conditions and with improper care, chrysanthemum can get sick with powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Powdery mildew appears as a loose whitish bloom on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. They destroy the fungi that cause the disease by treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skor or other fungicidal preparations.

Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by gray-brown or rusty spots with a yellow outline that appear on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and black dots appear in their center - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry up, the stems turn brown, wrinkle and bend. A diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots should be removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Cuproxat, Oxychom or copper sulfate... The chrysanthemum should be quarantined until you are sure it is healthy.

Gray rot, or botrytis, is also fungal in nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than from powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the terrestrial organs with a gray, fluffy coating, under which the plant tissues die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux liquid, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering.

Chrysanthemum pests

Of the pests, aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennies are dangerous to chrysanthemums.

Aphids, thrips and pennies are sucking pests that feed on the plant's cell sap. They are destroyed by treating chrysanthemums with insectoacaricidal preparations such as Aktellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.

As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm, and it is impossible to detect its presence on a chrysanthemum. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown, may indicate the defeat of the plant by nematodes. In the future, the leaves curl up, dry and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves. Infection with nematodes in domestic chrysanthemum can occur through soil that has not been disinfected. Unfortunately, you will not be able to save the plant from death, so it must be destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Types and varieties of domestic chrysanthemums

As we already mentioned, undersized and dwarf varieties and hybrids of Chinese, Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in room culture. Moreover, the founders of all modern varieties are Indian chrysanthemum, or small-flowered, and silk-leaved chrysanthemum, or large-flowered, or Chinese. The Korean chrysanthemum has a hybrid origin, although no one has seen the mulberry chrysanthemum growing in nature either. It should be said that the past is garden chrysanthemum dark and confusing, and therefore it is better not to delve into it. We offer you a description of the most popular of the currently existing varieties of home chrysanthemum:

Malchish-Kibalchish- the height of the bush is not more than 30 cm, and the diameter can reach 60 cm. This is a profusely blooming chrysanthemum with non-double chamomile-type inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter, pink-lilac;
Evening lights- the height of the compact bush is about 35 cm. The inflorescences are simple, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, red with a yellow ring around the middle;
First snow- the diameter is abundant flowering bush about half a meter, height no more than 35 cm. Inflorescences are white, semi-double, up to 5 cm in diameter;
Mascot- the bush does not exceed 25 cm in height. This variety has small dark crimson inflorescences up to 2 cm in diameter;
Cheburashka- compact hemispherical bushes up to 40 cm high with lilac double inflorescences up to 4 cm in diameter;
Barbara- a bush up to 40 cm high, blooming so profusely that sometimes leaves are not visible due to pinkish-lilac double inflorescences with a yellow center;
Flamingo- bush up to half a meter high with pale pink flowers up to 7.5 cm in diameter. Towards the center of the flower, the shade becomes more intense;
Pink cream- bushes up to 50 cm in height with densely double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter of a lilac-pink hue, which eventually becomes creamy pink;
Leaf fall- a chameleon plant up to 45 cm high with red-pink inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter, changing color to flesh-yellow;
Raspberry pompom – dwarf variety up to 30 cm high with pink-crimson hemispherical inflorescences up to 6 cm in diameter;
Okishore- a low, but powerful bush, reaching a height of 50 cm, with lilac-pink inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
Syaivo- a variety of Ukrainian selection up to 60 cm high with large egg-yellow inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
Apple blossom- bushes no more than 50 cm high with thick strong shoots and pinkish-white double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter.