Connecting a warm floor to a thermostat: instructions on electrical work. Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a floor heating thermostat Mechanical thermostat connection diagram 15 a
Modern technologies allow you to equip a warm floor in several ways, depending on which connection you plan to use. Well proven water systems underfloor heating having high reliability and cost-effectiveness. Electric underfloor heating is easy to install, the wide popularity of which is due to the possibility of placement under any cover. Of course, all the positive aspects take place only when using high-quality equipment and installing it correctly. Since part of the work on energy saving and convenience is assigned to the thermostat, special attention should be paid to its installation and connection.
A modern thermostat can be programmed to change the temperature not only by the hour, but also by the day of the week.
The use of a thermostat allows you to use any heating device without the danger of overheating and failure. That is why thermostats are built into electric irons, kettles and water heaters. Cable, rod, and film warm floors were no exception. Thanks to the installation of an adjustment device, you can not only change the temperature under your feet, but also program the work additional heating to save energy.
In systems with a heating liquid, the principle of underfloor heating is different, since the thermostat controls the operation of a three-way valve and (or) circulation pump... This allows you to obtain the required degree of heating regardless of the temperature of the coolant.
All existing thermostats can be divided into two types:
The electronic thermostat sensor is installed in the controlled area, and the control unit is mounted separately
Types of thermostats
Depending on the design and purpose, thermostats are divided into several types:
- devices with a saving mode that reduce the degree of heating in the absence of people in the room;
- devices combined with a timer, which help to save energy due to the ability to program the periods of turning on and off the system;
- intelligent programmable devices that control the operation of heating both according to a given algorithm and depending on other factors: temperature and humidity outside the window, the presence of people, etc.;
- limiting thermostats that are triggered when the set heating limit values are reached.
In small rooms, it is more rational to use a simple electronic thermostat or a device with a timer. The use of smart devices is justified in complex heating systems and large premises.
Some thermostat models are equipped with a pair of temperature sensors and two separate load control channels.
Choosing a place to install the thermostat
Built-in type programmable electronic thermostat is the most popular model
When choosing a place to place a thermostat, several factors are guided.
- Device type. In the retail network, most often you can find built-in thermostats, however, if it is impossible to install it, you can find a structure designed for surface mounting.
- Ergonomic considerations. The regulator is placed in convenient location, at a height of 10 - 80 cm from the floor.
- Availability. It is best to install the thermostat near the doors. In this case, you do not have to worry about the fact that after a while access to the device will be impossible due to standing furniture or equipment.
- Rational use of materials. When choosing a location, you should consider the distance from the electrical panel and the location of the cable outlet, since these factors affect the consumption of electrical wiring.
In the case of underfloor heating, a thermostat with a built-in sensor is often used as the main heating. Since the device works depending on the air temperature in the room, then it is installed at a height of about 150 cm from the floor.
Features of connecting the thermostat to the mains
The power of the installed heaters can be calculated based on the passport data or found out in a practical way by multiplying the current consumed in amperes by 220, which corresponds to the voltage in a two-phase network.
The color coding of the terminals is designed to facilitate the task of connecting the thermostat to electricity.
In accordance with generally accepted standards, the phase conductor corresponds to black or Brown color and zero is blue. Ground connects to the yellow-green conductor.
The supply voltage that is supplied to the device is life-threatening, therefore, the circuit must have a grounding circuit and a residual current device. When installing the thermostat, you should not ignore the safety requirements, and in the absence of experience, it is better to contact a professional electrician.
Technology for connecting the thermostat to the underfloor heating
Depending on the type of underfloor heating and the way the heaters are laid, its connection diagrams may differ.
Single core heating cable
Laying a single-core cable underfloor heating is carried out in such a way that both ends are as close as possible to the installation site of the thermostat. In this case, the connection is performed in the following order:
- the wires of the temperature sensor are connected to the corresponding terminals (without observing the polarity);
- a power cable is connected to the L and N contacts from the outlet or shield, while L corresponds to the phase wire, which can be detected using an indicator screwdriver;
- the output terminals of the power relay are connected to the underfloor heating element.
Wiring diagram of the thermostat to a single-core cable for an electric underfloor heating
After installation, check the correctness of the connections with a multimeter, apply voltage and test the system in all modes.
How to connect a single core cable floor (video)
Two-core cable
Due to the two current-carrying conductors, this type of cable is connected only on one side. A typical connection diagram is no different from a single-core design, except that the output of such a cable has three wires.
In the absence of a grounding terminal of the thermostat, the yellow-green terminal of the heating cable is connected to the neutral power wire.
Wiring diagram for a two-core cable to the thermostat
Installation and connection of underfloor heating, consisting of two-core mats (video)
Rod and foil heating systems
Rod and foil heaters are connected to the thermostat in parallel
When arranging underfloor heating equipped with infrared or rod heaters, a scheme is used according to which several panels are connected to the thermostat in parallel.
The same principle is observed in the case of using a heating cable in mats, when several parallel strips are required.
In this case, the connection of heaters to the temperature controller is possible in two ways.
Installation and connection of film heaters (video)
Temperature control of water-heated floors
Heating water floor systems is carried out due to the transportation of the hot coolant along the contour laid in the floor screed, therefore, the temperature can be adjusted in two ways:
- a change in the flow rate of the coolant;
- a change in its temperature. This is the most commonly used method. It involves the installation of a three-way valve that controls the mixing unit. In this case, the relay output of the thermostat is connected to the solenoid of the electric locking device. As soon as the temperature exceeds the set value, the valve opens. After that, the cooled water from the return line begins to mix with the incoming liquid, reducing its heat capacity.
They have long ceased to be a kind of curiosity. Many owners of houses and apartments are increasingly resorting to this method of space heating, planning to use it in conjunction with a classic heating system or even instead of it. There are a lot of advantages - they are both economy, and special comfort, and optimal distribution of heat in the volume of the room.
If we compare the two main types of "warm floors", and, then the second is much simpler and cheaper in arrangement, easier to set up and operate. Many are deterred by the high cost of electricity. But this criterion is rather conditional if the apartment or house is insulated with high quality, and the work of the heating system is well organized. The control function of the electric "warm floor" is assigned to a special device - a thermostat. It is an obligatory element of the system, and the level will depend on the correctness of its work. created comfort and economical operation.
Installing such a "brain" of the system is not at all so difficult task... Let's figure out how to connect a warm floor to a thermostat.
What is “warm floor” thermoregulation for?
Just a few words about the importance of a high-quality, correctly operating electric "warm floor" control system.
Such a heating system cannot be simply plugged into the network and operated according to the principle “the warmer, the better”. The surface heating temperature is always strictly limited, and usually does not exceed a maximum of +27 degrees in living quarters. It can be slightly higher in bathrooms and showers, in corridors or hallways, but also within + 30 ÷ 33 degrees. And why?
- Firstly, the level of comfortable perception of the heat coming from below for a person's legs lies within the range of up to 25 ÷ 27 degrees. At higher temperatures, especially above the normal temperature of the human body, it begins to "bake" clearly. And the feeling of pleasant warmth is replaced by obvious discomfort.
- Secondly, excessive heating has a negative effect on topcoat floor. Even those of its varieties, which are designed for operation in conjunction with a heating system, have upper limits of permissible temperatures. Otherwise, deformation processes may begin due to excessive linear expansion. Drying, seam divergence, breakage of locking joints and other unpleasant phenomena are observed.
- Finally, the issue of rational spending of expensive electrical energy... In a well-distant "warm floor" system, with high-quality thermal insulation of the floor and the entire room as a whole, the heating elements work for a very limited time. An example is shown in the diagram below.
Moreover, the total consumption, even in such a continuous mode of operation, is very insignificant. Savings are also achieved by fine-tuning the modes. That is, heating will be carried out exactly when it is really needed.
All these control functions are taken over by a special device - a thermostat.
Varieties of thermostats for electric "warm floors"
Thermostats are compact devices designed for installation in a standard socket outlet (built-in models) or directly on the wall (surface-mounted). To work in underfloor heating systems, they must be equipped with a temperature sensor with a signal cable. Many thermostats also have a built-in temperature sensor that monitors the air temperature in the room. Such models are usually used in cases where the system electric heating becomes the main source of heat. But even they always provide for the possibility of connecting an external temperature sensor and using the "on the floor" operating mode.
Underfloor heating prices
warm floor
The whole variety of modern thermostats can be divided into three groups:
- Electromechanical devices are the simplest in design and use. And, of course, the most inexpensive in terms of cost.
All controls for such devices are usually limited to a power button and a setting wheel with a printed temperature scale. The simplest indication is provided - an LED indicating whether the power to the heating elements is currently on.
The advantages of such devices are simplicity and an affordable price. But the precision of insertion temperature regime may "lame" - however, it is quickly solved by the user at an intuitive level. And the second disadvantage, more important, is the lack of the ability to program operating modes. That is, it will not be possible to achieve a sensitive saving in energy consumption with an electromechanical thermostat.
- The second group - electronic devices equipped with a digital display and buttons (sensors) for precise setting of the required heating temperature.
Such devices are, of course, more convenient to use, but their functionality is not much different from electromechanical ones. No programming capabilities, no non-volatile memory not provided. Apparently, this circumstance precisely limits their popularity. They are already much more expensive than their electromechanical counterparts. But it is also not possible to achieve real savings in energy consumption with them.
- The third group is already "smart" thermostats, the functionality of which contains many options. They usually have a built-in temperature sensor - it is possible to switch between control modes "by floor" and "by air". But the most important thing is that the thermostat can be programmed for several operating modes, both by time during the day, and by day, taking into account weekdays and weekends.
For example, the floor warms up in the morning before the owners wake up and remains in this state until they leave for work (study). During the day, the system will simply maintain the minimum required temperature - there is no need to waste energy. But by the time the residents arrive home, the most comfortable conditions will again be created.
Several such cycles can be programmed during the day. And taking into account the schedule of your work - in advance to enter the days off when the heating modes will be different. There is always an opportunity and to correct the given settings, if there have been some changes in the way of life of the family. Or simply - temporarily switch to manual mode. And the programmed modes will be saved in the device memory, and you can return to them at any time.
Modern models, in addition, can be equipped with remote control from the remote control, or even remotely, via the Internet or GSM communication channels.
Most of the models on sale are designed to control the "warm floor" system in one room. But if conditions permit, then you can purchase a two-channel device. It is able to independently control heating in adjacent rooms. It is equipped with two remote temperature sensors, and its terminals allow connecting two heating circuits from one supplied power line.
You can also add the fact that in addition to built-in and overhead devices, thermostats are also produced with installation on a DIN rail.
Prices for thermostats
thermostat for underfloor heating
But there is no particular convenience for operation in an apartment or a house. Unless - there is no need to pull the power line to the location of the thermostat - it is already in the control cabinet. But more problems with laying the signal cable from the temperature sensor and "cold ends" from the heating cable or mat. So the win is dubious. And all room regulators have a fairly neat design. So they will not spoil the interior - they fit perfectly, for example, in groups or switches.
General principles of connecting thermostats to an electric underfloor heating
Optimal place for the thermostat
I place this device on the wall in a place convenient for the user - so that setting modes and visual control would not cause difficulties. True, there are several rules-recommendations that should be followed:
- The thermostat should not be placed in the traditional path of drafts. Do not place it on sections of the wall that are exposed to direct sunlight from the window. This rule will be all the more relevant if the device is equipped with a built-in temperature sensor. That is, it is possible to operate the system with an "air" temperature estimate.
- As a rule, these devices are not placed on external walls, that is, in contact with the street.
- The height of the appliance above the floor level is at least 400 mm. The upper limit is not regulated. But raising the thermostat above the line of sight of an average person is simply unreasonable.
- If a warm floor is installed in a room with high humidity (bathroom, shower, bath, etc.), then the thermostat should be taken out to the next room for safety reasons. The housings of most devices do not have the proper class of protection against direct splashes of water and steam.
- The location of the thermostat on the wall may, to a certain extent, depend on the length of the standard signal cable of the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor itself must be located at least 500 mm from the wall, in the center between adjacent turns of the heating cable. The exception is film "warm floors", in which the head of the temperature sensor must be on the black carbon heating strip, also in its center and at the same distance from the wall.
For a built-in thermostat (in the diagram - item 1), a socket is cut out in the wall for a regular socket with a diameter of 68 mm. True, most craftsmen recommend using not a standard socket with a depth of 45 mm, but with an increased depth - 60 mm. This is so that the body of the thermostat and all groups of wires connected to the terminals fit seamlessly in it.
A dedicated power line must be connected to this socket, taking into account the power of the planned load. As a rule, for electric "warm floors" a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² is sufficient, which can easily withstand a load of up to 3.5 kW. The line must be protected in switchboard at 16 amperes. (This means, of course, copper wires- aluminum for home has long been "outlawed").
A shaft is cut vertically from the socket to the floor (pos. 2). It will accommodate "cold ends" connected through couplings (pos. 3) with a heating cable or mats, and a temperature sensor cable. The depth and width of the pipe are usually made such that two corrugated tubes with a diameter of 10 mm fit in it. One of them will house the power wires - "cold ends", simply for security reasons. And the second tube is intended for the temperature sensor, and it goes from the wall to the floor (pos. 4) up to the point of its installation.
This installation is explained by the fact that temperature sensors fail from time to time. And so that there is a possibility of replacement, it is placed in the pipe. His cable is rather stiff, and it can be pushed a considerable length in this channel.
On the floor, a tube with a thermal sensor is located openly if it is planned to pour a screed with a thickness of 35 ÷ 50 mm. It turns out that the sensor will control the heating temperature of this concrete monolith, which plays the role of an effective heat accumulator. In the same cases when tiles will be laid directly on the heating mat (some types of systems imply this installation method), a cut is cut for and in the floor surface.
The corrugated tube is not used only with a film electric "warm floor". There are no screeds, that is, the replacement of a failed sensor can be carried out by dismantling the floor covering section. And the temperature readings are taken here in a slightly different way - directly from the heating element. This will be dismantled below.
The end of the corrugated tube is muffled with a plug (item 5) so that the solution does not get into it during the pouring of the screed. The plug can be included in the kit, or it can be made independently, for example, from several layers of waterproof tape.
The illustration below shows the thermostat kit. In addition to the thermal sensor, it includes not only a piece of corrugated pipe, but also a plug for it.
Moreover, pay attention to one interesting nuance. The manufacturer completes the set with a brass plug. It is in it that the head of the temperature sensor should enter, that is, the temperature-sensitive element itself. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, the readings that the sensor will take are obtained in this case more correct.
Thermostat connection diagram
Any thermostat, if purchased in a store, is accompanied by detailed instructions on its connection. But with the switching of wires at the terminals of the device, it is quite possible to figure it out yourself, focusing on the marking of the contacts. Despite the wide variety of models, most of them retain approximately the same pattern. So you can look at it with an example.
- The first pair of contacts (1 and 2) is for connecting the supply voltage. Please note - for the correct operation of the thermostat, it is important correct installation phase (L) and zero (N). This is why it is important to observe the color coding of the wires when routing the wiring - you will never get confused.
- The second pair (3 and 4) is for connecting the load, that is heating elements"Warm floor". Usually, the value of the maximum permissible current is also indicated - in this case, it is 16 amperes.
- The third pair of contacts (6 and 7) - for connecting the wires of the signal cable of the temperature sensor. The location of the conductors is irrelevant here. And there is also a signature that says about the parameters of the temperature sensor - its resistance at a temperature of +25 ° C is 10 kOhm.
By the way, it will never be superfluous to check with an ohmmeter the correspondence of the indicated resistance to the real one before installation. If a match is obtained (± 5-10%), then the sensor is in good order and can be safely installed in place. If the value obtained is clearly different, then this may indicate a sensor malfunction. And it's better to replace it right away so that you don't have to mess with it later.
So, there is no wisdom, everything is simple. But when carrying out switching, special care is still needed.
A common mistake of inexperienced users is that the power wires are installed on the load connection terminals. After energizing, the thermostat will fail with a probability close to 100%.
Before connecting, it never hurts to once again check the instructions and the applied symbols. The fact is that some models of thermostats have a different terminal arrangement. In particular, first two zeros, power supplies and loads, are located next to each other, and then two phase contacts in the same order. And if we apply the "stereotyped" connection scheme shown above, this will mean a guaranteed short circuit.
What to do with the grounding wire?
Rarely, but there are models of thermostats in which a separate terminal is allocated to connect the ground wire and the shielding braid of the heating cable.
But more often they do it differently. The green-yellow conductor of the power cable is connected to the braided shield through a terminal or crimp sleeve directly to each other, directly. And they place this connection in the space of the socket.
V modern models thermostats, for example, with remote and remote control, there may be additional terminals for connecting communication channels or other devices. This option is not considered, since it is somewhat beyond the scope of our article. In such a case, you should clearly follow the attached instructions. Or, if there is no experience of such a robot, it is better to invite a specialist.
Examples of connecting a floor heating thermostat - step by step
This section of the article discusses three examples, each with its own specifics.
Test connection of the RTC 70.26 thermostat
This example was chosen because such a thermostat is one of the most mass models... When installing it, there are a number of nuances that you should know in advance. A trial connection is shown to check the operability of the device, that is, so far without a stationary installation in a socket box. But good, very clearly demonstrates the operation of the thermostat.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, a very popular model due to its cost (less than 1000 rubles) and sufficient reliability and unpretentiousness is the RTC 70.26 model. A test connection and functional check will be carried out. An incandescent lamp (standing on the table) will act as a connected load. |
 | Rear view - there are terminals for connecting wire pairs on the body. The mounting frame with arcuate slots is clearly visible - for mounting the thermostat in a standard socket outlet. |
 | A feature of this model, and very inconvenient - before disassembling the thermostat, it is necessary to remove the adjusting wheel. You have to pry it off with a screwdriver and move it forward along the axis. |
 | A screw is hidden under the wheel that fixes the cover to the device case. He is shown in the photo with a screwdriver. The right screw does not need to be touched - it is just a wheel rotation limiter. |
 | After unscrewing the screw, the cover is carefully removed with a translational upward movement. |
 | Here it is - a nuance. The wheel rotates on a plastic axle, which, after removing the cover, is very easy to remove from its seat. Care must be taken as: - the axle can be broken by careless movement; - such small parts have harmful property fall out and roll into the most inaccessible places, so that it is not easy to find them later. So it is better to carefully pull it out right away and put it in a safe place. |
 | Frame with mounting holes. Naturally, in a real installation, one must be installed first - all the wires will pass through its window ... |
 | ... and then the thermostat itself will be superimposed on top of it. As you can clearly see, their mounting holes match. |
 | Let's move on to commutation. First you need to loosen the screws in all terminals that will be used. When working with the terminals, use a screwdriver with a narrow (3 mm) tip to avoid damaging the plastic edges of the round sockets. |
 | Terminals 1 and 2 connect the supply line wires. It is important not to forget to observe correct location zero and phase - this is indicated on the case near each of the terminals. In this case, just to test the thermostat, a piece of cable with a power plug is connected, which will be plugged into the outlet during testing. |
 | The wires going to the load are connected to terminals 3 and 4. Instead of a floor heating circuit, an incandescent lamp will be used for the test. |
 | Finally, the ends of the temperature sensor signal cable are installed and clamped in terminals 6 and 7. The relative position of their role does not play. |
 | The commutation is complete. Please note that the wires suitable for the terminals can be stranded, and directly clamping their stripped ends is undesirable, since the contact may turn out to be initially unreliable, and over time also weaken. All such wires are immediately put on terminal lugs and crimped. An exception is copper wires of the power line, if they are solid. But if a stranded wire is used there too (for example, PVA 3 × 2.5), then the tips are definitely needed. |
 | Imagine that the thermostat is connected, installed in a socket box, and needs to be assembled. |
 | First, a plastic axle is carefully inserted into its socket. It is necessary to feel that its lower slot fits into the existing connection on the board. |
 | After that, the top cover is put on. The switch key should go into its window, the axis should go through the hole. |
 | Next, the cover is fixed with a screw. The plastic is quite fragile, so you should not try to tighten the screw tightly - this way you can achieve the appearance of a crack or even a break under the head. |
 | Gently puts on the axle and sits down until it stops with the temperature setting wheel. You can immediately check the correctness of its installation - the risk marked on it should move within the range of the marked scale. |
 | Everything is ready for testing. The power wire connects to the network. The start key switches to the upper position - "on". |
 | Nothing happens - there is no power supply to the load. But this is because the temperature is set on the regulator at only 10 degrees, and the room is clearly higher. It is clear that the thermal sensor does not give a command to turn on. |
 | Let's try to move the slider to the 30 degree mark. Yes, the light came on, that is, the thermostat turned on the power to the load, which it should have done! |
 | Let's start gradually decreasing the value of the set temperature on the controller. Upon reaching a level lower than the real temperature in the room, the thermostat will turn off - no heating is required. It is obvious that the device is working correctly. |
You can slightly modify the experiment. Set the heating level in the same way at 30 degrees, and then hold the head of the temperature sensor in the palm of your hand. Since the temperature of the human body is higher, when the heating level reaches more than 30 degrees, the thermostat must turn off the power.
But all this was shown more for a better understanding of the principle of connection and operation of the thermostat. And now we need to look at the process of installing this device, as they say, in place.
Prices for film underfloor heating
film warm floor
Switching and installation of an electronic thermostat in a regular place
V this example shows the process of connecting and installing the thermostat of the electric cable "warm floor". The heating elements have been installed and covered with screed for a long time. The walls of the room are even finished. The socket is embedded, and all the cables and wires necessary for connection are inserted into it.
Naturally, before starting work, you should once again check whether the power going to warm floor power line - the machine must be turned off.
The electronic type "DEVIreg Touch" thermostat is used, the removable cover of which is also a touch digital display. It is fastened to the case with latches, at the same time communicating with it through the existing connector.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | The socket box opens if it was covered for the duration of the finishing. The wires are led out. So, there are three types of wires - a copper mono-core power cable VVG 3 × 2.5, a two-core heating cable with a braided shield and a signal cable for a temperature sensor. |
 | All wires are cut so that they come out of the socket beyond the wall level by 80 ÷ 100 mm - that's enough. |
 | The best way to get started is to deal with grounding right away. It is necessary to connect the green and yellow wire of the power cable to the copper braided shielding of the heating cable. The connection will be made with the "Wago" terminal. Since the braid consists of many thin wires, for a high-quality connection in the terminal, it must be tinned. |
 | The end of the braid is carefully twisted tightly, treated with flux, and then covered with a thin layer of solder. |
 | The end of the green / yellow ground wire of the power cable is stripped. This is best done special tool- insulation stripper. |
 | Then both prepared conductors are alternately inserted and clamped in the "Wago" terminal. |
 | After that, the wires are neatly bent, and this connector knot stows away in a socket. |
 | The terminal should be located at the very bottom of the socket. As already mentioned, for the thermostat it is better to use a socket with increased depth. Completed with grounding switching. |
 | The rest of the wires are being prepared for connection. Their ends are stripped of insulation by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. |
 | Since the "cold ends" of the heating cable have a multi-wire structure, for a high-quality connection in the screw terminals of the thermostat, they should be "dressed" in crimp terminals. |
 | The mono-core wires of the VVG power cable will be perfectly clamped in the terminal without any lugs. The wires of the temperature sensor can have terminal lugs installed at the factory. However, just here there is practically no load, so you can do with tinning the tips - this will be enough. If you have tips of the required diameter, you can put them. The main thing is that the end of the wires is not fluffed, so that good contact is ensured. |
 | If all the wires are prepared, you can proceed to switching them. The sequence in which the pairs are connected does not matter. In this example, the wizard started by connecting the temperature sensor cable. As mentioned earlier, the relative position of the wires of the temperature sensor in the terminals (NTS) is not regulated. The wires are inserted into the terminals and tightened with screws. By applying a pulling force, the reliability of their fixation is checked. |
 | Further, the “cold ends” of the heating cable, dressed in lugs, are inserted into the terminals and then tightened. The color coding of the conductors is already observed here. Please note: just such an example is shown, when the power and heating cable wires are installed "in a cross" - two phases side by side, and then two zeros. It is important to be very careful about this, focusing on the applied designations. |
 | After that, the power wires are also inserted into their terminals and clamped, also in strict accordance with the color coding and applied designations. |
 | All wires are connected. To be sure, you can walk again - check the quality of the tightening of the contacts on all terminals. |
 | Now the body of the thermostat must be carefully inserted into the socket. In order not to interfere with the wires, which have a fairly significant rigidity, proceed as follows. First, take the device as shown in the illustration. |
 | Then gently turn it up, so that all the wires from the bottom get the first even bend. |
 | After that, with index fingers on both sides, press the wires to back side thermostat housing ... |
 | ... and the device itself is turned back a little. |
 | As a result, there should be such a zigzag bend of all wires ... |
 | … And the thermostat will easily fit into the socket. |
 | If necessary, it is trimmed horizontally using a building level ... |
 | ... and then fix it to the socket with self-tapping screws. Masters recommend using not the screws that come with the kit, but somewhat longer, 25 or 30 mm - this will be more reliable. After the screws have been baited, the flatness of the installation is checked again - and then they are completely tightened. |
 | That's it, the body of the device is installed, it remains to attach the front touch panel to it. There are no difficulties here - it is installed in place and gently sits forward until the latches work. |
 | That's it, the thermostat is installed. If conditions permit, you can turn on the power and conduct a test run of the "warm floor" system. Well, then - setting up and programming the device, in accordance with the instruction manual attached to it. |
It can be added that the start-up of the "warm floor" system, if the heaters are closed with a screed, can be carried out only after it has fully developed its strength. It is absolutely unacceptable to "stimulate" the hardening and maturation of concrete by turning on the heating. And even after the screed and flooring are completely ready, the start-up is still not performed at once at the design power. It is necessary to start, for example, with heating up to 15 degrees, and then daily increase the temperature by 5 degrees until the planned mode is reached. This achieves the smoothest possible adaptation of all components of the “warm floor pie” to normal operation at elevated temperatures.
Connecting the thermostat to the film "warm floor"
Finally, in the third example, the connection of the thermostat to the underfloor heating system with infrared film elements is dismantled. There are differences in the installation of the temperature sensor, and the thermostat itself will be installed not on the main wall, but on a rigid cladding (MDF lining).
The example shows personal experience the work of the author of this article.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | For underfloor heating in this example, purchased 3 running meters film heater "Teplonog" of South Korean production. Specific power - 220 W / m². that is, with a film width of 500 mm, the total maximum power of the entire underfloor heating system is only 330 W. Laying will be carried out in small room private house. The room is a former nursery. The former because her daughter has grown to student age. |
 | More in this case is not required. "Warm floor" is created solely to increase the level of comfort, and not to replace the existing water heating system. It is planned to place the heaters in two lines. Longer, two-meter (pos. 4) captures the area from front door through the center of the room to writing desk(item 2). The second, meter section (item 3) will be located along the bed (item 1). After installing the heating system, the floor will be covered with laminate. |
 | A power cable was installed from a dedicated machine located in an adjacent room. I had to punch through the wall and remove some of the cladding in order to let the wires through. It was decided to leave the high shelf on the left wall - it is behind its MDF cladding that the power wire will pass, and the thermostat with a parallel-connected outlet will be located in the area shown by the blue arrow. Film heaters do not imply a connection to ground, therefore PVA 2 × 1.5 wires are used. With such a low power of the heaters and with the expectation that the outlet is intended for charging gadgets, this is quite enough. For the future installation of the thermostat and the socket, two cladding panels have been temporarily removed here - after a slight alteration, windows will be cut out in them for the installation of socket outlets. |
 | The floor surface, carefully leveled with OSB sheets, is covered with a foil backing made of polyethylene foam. All joints are glued with foil tape. The illustration clearly shows the area where the thermostat will be installed. The cladding panels have been shortened - a small niche shelf will be built there. Windows are cut out in the panels and sockets are installed (as for drywall - with presser feet at the back). The socket is immediately installed, connected to the power cable. A piece of cable goes from it by a loop, which will be connected to the thermostat. The installation height of the socket boxes in this case was 450 mm, with an allowable minimum of 400 mm. A small arched window (shown by an arrow) is cut out under the panel with a socket - the wires of the "warm floor" and the temperature sensor will pass through it. |
 | The heating film elements will be switched according to the following scheme: 1 - thermal sensor; 2 - points of connection to the busbars of phase wires; 3 - points of connection of neutral wires; 4 - points of isolation of the unused cut-off bus ends. All wires do not intersect anywhere and converge at one point - they must go through the carved arched window. |
 | The heating foil is cut into two pieces, which are placed in their designated places. The "copper" side of the busbars should point downward. |
 | Along the long edges, the heaters are fixed to the floor surface with strips of construction tape. |
 | First of all, the insulation of the cut ends of the busbars is carried out, which will not be involved in switching. For this it is used special overlays on a rubber-bitumen basis, which came with the film. The protective paper backing is removed from one side ... |
 | ... then the insulating strip is glued to the bottom of the busbar ... |
 | ... bends and crimps tight. And so - at all four points in accordance with the diagram. |
 | To prevent the insulation points from sticking up above the surface of the film, a neat window is cut out in the foil substrate exactly along the contour of the insulating pad. |
 | Further, the switching of the power supply of the film heaters begins. For this, wires are used, which are also included in the "warm floor" kit. |
 | Special terminal contacts are inserted into the busbar sections. To do this, you can slightly push the gap between the two layers of film with a screwdriver. |
 | The upper contact petal is inserted into this slot ... |
 | ... and the lower one is simply pressed with a finger at first ... |
 | ... and then finally crimped with pliers. And so - at all points, according to the diagram, where the wires will be connected. |
 | Then, wires are connected to these terminals, again, strictly according to the diagram. Their ends stripped from insulation are inserted into the terminal, and then its petals are sequentially squeezed with pliers. |
 | After crimping the terminal, it is insulated with the same rubber-bitumen pads. Only one is glued from below, as shown in the illustration ... |
 | ... and the second is opposite - from above. After careful compression, a neat insulating "cocoon" is obtained. |
 | A window is also cut out under it in a foil substrate. In addition, to "sink" the wire, a groove is cut under it. In a similar way, operations are repeated at all points of connection of wires, according to the scheme. |
 | It's time to install the thermal sensor. It will be located in the center of the black heating strip, pressed against it from below (the location is shown by the arrow). |
 | Reliable fixation is ensured by a strip of reinforced construction tape. |
 | For the signal cable, a groove is cut in the substrate, and for the head of the temperature sensor, we even had to make a small indentation in the plywood floor covering. |
 | The commutation of the heaters is over, all the wires converge at one point - they dive under the cladding. |
 | And film heaters are finally around the perimeter, and all grooves with laid wires are "sealed" with strips of construction tape. |
 | The wires are wound behind the cladding, and you can start installing the thermostat. |
 | Stranded wires are used, therefore crimp terminal lugs were installed on all stripped ends. |
 | The wires are passed through the windows cut in the socket box ... |
 | ... and then the panel with the socket is installed in its place and finally fixed there. |
 | Such a thermostat, of electronic type, with the possibility of weekly programming of operating modes of the "warm floor" will be installed. |
 | First of all, it needs to be disassembled. |
 | First, the cladding frame is removed - it is fastened with latches, and it is not difficult to dismantle it. And the thermostat itself must be removed from the metal support. It is fixed on it with a movable metal bracket - it is clearly visible in the photograph. |
 | This bracket is moved up with a screwdriver and comes out of the ground with a support. |
 | Caliper and thermostat after disassembly. |
 | The support is immediately put in place - it is attached with screws to the socket. The wires are passed through it. |
 | The location of the terminals on the thermostat is nothing special, a standard diagram. |
 | First of all, the contacts of the temperature sensor cable are connected. |
 | Then - the load wires, that is, coming from the heating film elements. And finally, the wires of the power cable - their connection just did not make it into the frame. |
 | Before the final installation of the thermostat in place, it makes sense to check the functionality of the assembled system. |
 | To do this, the machine is turned on, that is, power is supplied, and the inscription “Off” appears on the display of the thermostat. So far, everything is going according to plan. |
 | The thermostat turns on. But the heating does not start, since the work was carried out in summer, in hot weather, and the factory presets on the device are 24 degrees. On the right side of the screen, there are real temperature readings on the thermal sensor, and this is more than 28 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary for the experiment to temporarily set the heating level to 33 degrees. And the "warm floor" is triggered instantly - the heating icon appears on the indicator (indicated by the arrow), and bare feet feel a rapid rise in temperature on the floor. Everything works! |
 | You can turn off the system, just in case - temporarily de-energize it and finally install the thermostat. Installing it is no longer difficult - it is attached to the caliper, and then a decorative frame is installed. After that, the power to this line was turned on again. The thermostat will be in the off position before the cold weather, but the outlet may well be used for its intended purpose. |
 | And, finally, to logically finish this example, it is shown what ended up after the laminate flooring and final finishing site for the installation of the thermostat. |
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So, in the publication, examples of installing an electric floor heating thermostat were considered in detail. Only moments related to fine tuning and programming of such devices fell out of sight. But this is done on purpose, so as not to introduce confusion. Just have different models may have their own characteristics, and there are no universal “recipes”. Therefore, here you will have to strictly follow the instructions attached to the thermostat. Or look for more detailed description performed programming operations on the Internet.
As an example, we can recommend watching a detailed video instruction posted on YouTube by one of the users. By the way, the fine tuning of the model is demonstrated, which almost completely coincides with the one shown in the last installation example.
Video: Setting up a programmable thermostat series E51
The device of the underfloor heating system consists in the installation of heating elements under the floor covering and their further connection to the power source. This does not happen directly, but through a thermostat - a device that serves to regulate the temperature regime. Connecting a warm floor to a thermostat (thermostat) and electricity is a simple operation, so it can be done without the involvement of professional electricians. Moreover, caring manufacturers usually depict an electrical installation diagram on the housings of their thermostats. However, if you are a person who is not at all versed in the wilds of electricity, some of the nuances may not be clear to you. We will try to take into account possible controversial nuances and describe the process of connecting the thermostat to the underfloor heating system in as much detail as possible - for "dummies".
How does the thermostat work?
The thermostat is used to maintain a stable temperature in a "warm" system, as well as to turn on and off heating mats (films). The device "reads" the readings of the temperature sensor and automatically cuts off the power supply as soon as the floor heats up to the required limit. At the same time, he himself remains in working mode and continues to control the situation. If the sensor notifies about deviations in the temperature mode, the thermostat will again put electricity into the system and the floor will begin to heat up.
The most popular and reliable thermostats are mechanical and conventional electronic. More complex ones are electronic programmable. Despite the significant difference in its "stuffing", the principle of connecting thermostats is very similar.
The set to the thermostat includes a temperature sensor, junction box, terminals, installation and operating instructions
Installing and connecting the thermostat
The thermostat is usually wall-mounted like a conventional switch. For it, a place is chosen near the existing electrical wiring, for example, near an outlet. First, a recess is made in the wall, the thermostat junction box is installed there, the wires (phase and zero) of the supply network and the temperature sensor are connected to it. The next step is to connect the thermostat.
On the side of the thermostat there are "nests". The wires of the network (220V), the sensor and the heating cable are connected here.
It is useful to know that the wires that are connected when installing the thermostat are color-coded:
- white (black, brown) wire - L phase;
- blue wire - N zero;
- yellow-green wire - ground.
Connecting the warm floor to electricity is performed in the following order:
- To "sockets" 1 and 2 connect the mains wires with a voltage of 220V. The polarity is strictly observed: the L (phase) wire is connected to contact 1, the N (zero) wire to contact 2.
- A heating cable for underfloor heating is connected to contacts 3 and 4 according to the principle: contact 3 - wire N (zero), contact 4 - wire L (phase).
- The wires of the temperature sensor (usually built into the floor, that is, determining the temperature in the floor) are connected to "sockets" 6 and 7. The principles of polarity do not need to be observed here.
- Check the health of the thermostat. To do this, turn on the -220V power supply, set the minimum temperature on the device and turn on the heating element system (by turning the knob or pressing the button). After that, the heating mode is changed to the maximum, that is, the thermostat is "programmed" for the most high fever which is possible for him. Correct operation of the device will report itself with a click, which will indicate a closure of the heating circuit.
Connection diagrams may differ slightly, depending on the types and models of thermostats. Therefore, so that the user does not make a mistake, as a rule, all contacts are written on the device case.
When connecting the thermostat, follow the connection diagram shown on the body of the device.
Small differences in connection also dictate the features of underfloor heating heating cables. According to their structure and number of veins, they are divided into single-core and two-core. Accordingly, there are some nuances in their connection schemes.
Connecting a two-wire cable to the thermostat
A two-core heating cable has two current-carrying conductors under the protective sheath. This type of cable is more convenient than a single-core design, since it is connected to the thermostat only at one end. Consider typical scheme connections:
Wiring diagram of a two-wire cable to the thermostat
We see that 3 wires are adjacent to one two-core cable: 2 of them are current-carrying (brown and blue), 1 is ground (yellow-green). A brown wire (phase) is connected to pin 3, blue (zero) to pin 4, and green (ground) to pin 5.
The kit for the thermostat, the diagram of which we have just reviewed, does not include a ground terminal. Installation is much easier with a ground terminal.
Two light green wires through the PE terminal are connected to the ground loop
Single-core cable connection
There is only one live conductor in a single-core cable, usually it white... The second wire - green - is the PE shield ground. The connection diagram may be as follows:
Connection diagram of a single-core cable to the thermostat
White wires are connected to thermostat contacts 3 and 4 (both ends of a single-core cable), to contact 5 - green ground wire.
Video example of installation work
As you can see, connecting a thermostat is one of the easiest steps in building a warm floor. You don't need to have seven spans in your forehead to deal with the simplest scheme painted on the body of the device and follow all the manufacturer's recommendations. The only difficulty can be ensuring personal safety when working with electricity. Observe the installation instructions and remember that work on connecting the thermostat must be carried out with the circuit breaker off (circuit breaker).
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Underfloor heating systems in recent times have become quite common. They not only increase comfort, but also serve as a good addition to the main heating. For efficient, but economical operation of the warm floor, it is necessary to install a thermostat that turns the system on or off. You can see how he looks in the photo.
Connecting the thermostat to a warm floor (water) is optional, although its use contributes to a more economical consumption of the heat carrier. As for electrical and infrared systems, the installation of a thermostat is essential for their operation.
Types of thermostats
These devices are simple and complex. In simple mechanical devices, only one parameter is set - the heating temperature. Complex ones have software control and an electronic display, with their help you can set up the operation of the floor heating system, for example, turning it on and off at a certain time.Connecting an electric heated floor to the controller
Heating elements can be electric mats or infrared foil. The device of an electric underfloor heating is simple: it fits either into the thickness of the screed, or on it. It is laid on top flooring... As for how to connect the warm floor to the thermostat, the work is carried out as follows.Before choosing a place where the thermostat will be located. Next to him should be electrical network 220 V. Between the power supply and the thermostat, it is necessary to leave a place for the location of the circuit breaker.
When creating an electric floor with heating, you need to provide a place for the temperature sensor. It is usually placed near a thermostat. It is unacceptable to cover it with furniture.
If an infrared film acts as a heating element in the underfloor heating system, then the temperature sensor is installed on its seamy side.
In the event that floor heating is used electrical cable, which fits into the thickness of the screed, then the temperature sensor is removed from the concrete, placing it together with the inside corrugated pipe... As a result, one end of the pipe is located in the thickness of the screed, and the other is brought out to the wall in such a way that, if necessary, it is possible to remove and replace the faulty sensor without removing the floor covering.
After finishing the installation electrical system in the place where the thermostat will be installed, markings are applied. This will help the connection diagram of the underfloor heating controller. If the device is built-in, then a niche is made in the place of its future location (read also: ""). Self-tapping screws and dowels are used to install the overhead device.
Make sure that the capacities of the heating element of the underfloor heating system and the thermostat match each other. The load on the heating element must be less than the maximum power of the thermostat.
Then connect the wiring of the element to the terminals of the device. It is imperative to follow the order of connecting the phases, this will help the connection diagram of the underfloor heating thermostat. On most devices, neutral zero is indicated by the letter "N" and the phases by "F" and "L". In addition, the phases are also indicated by the color of the wires. The zero one usually has blue color and the phase wire is white, black or brown. Read also: "".
- set the minimum temperature on the device;
- served for meals;
- turn on the heating toggle switch;
- smoothly change the temperature, while it is worth paying attention to the fact that when the heating elements are turned on, there should be a click;
- check the floor heating.
Connecting the water floor system to the thermostat
Connecting a warm floor to the thermostat in this case is not necessary, but this device allows you to save on the coolant. In water systems, a thermostat controls the flow of water. Sensors for water floors, as well as for electrical ones, are simple and complex (programmable). Thermal sensors in water systems usually measure the temperature of the air in a room. How such devices look can be seen in the photo.When installing a water-heated floor, the temperature sensor is fixed at a height of about 100 centimeters, it can be placed next to the thermostat. But it must be borne in mind that next to the sensor there should not be additional sources heating.
After it has been installed, wires are drawn from it to the thermostat. You can buy sensors to which information is transmitted over the radio channel, but in this case you need to make sure that the signal is well transmitted.
After the underfloor heating system has been started, you need to place a regular thermometer next to the temperature sensor and set the required heating temperature on the regulator. The underfloor heating system must maintain stable performance for several hours. After testing the warm floor for normal performance, you can use them. The thermostat makes it possible to set the required temperature and thereby save on the coolant.
There is nothing complicated in how to connect a floor heating controller. But you need to follow the instructions exactly and follow the scheme for performing this work. In addition, the connection must be made with the electricity off - this is required by safety rules. As a result of the installation of the underfloor heating system, in a few hours it will be noticeable how much more comfortable it has become in the house.
Thermostat for underfloor heating is called a device special purpose, allowing to control and regulate the degree of heating of the floor and air in the room. Basically, every room where the underfloor heating is installed is equipped with a thermostat.
The thermostat serves as a guarantor of maintaining the desired temperature conditions in the room. However, manufacturers successfully produce multi-channel devices, in which each of the channels is responsible for maintaining the heating of its own zone.
The main purpose of the device is to maintain a given temperature regime, which is expressed in the process of performing it functional responsibilities, namely:
- Turning heating on and off according to the state of change in the temperature of the floor covering (possibly taking into account the air temperature in the apartment).
- Turning on economy mode heating at night or during periods when property owners are absent.
- Connecting or disconnecting the system in a given period of time.
Connecting thermostats to electric underfloor heating
connection diagram This type of floor implies the presence of heating elements in the form of infrared films or cables, which have high resistance and gradually heats up.
Step by step connection guide:
- First thing the place where the thermostat will be located is determined.
- We draw up a connection diagram.
- Considering the layout of all elements. It is recommended to carry out the installation in places with access to wires, since the working process of the system requires the presence of a voltage of 220 V.
- Stacking warm material , you should first think about where the temperature sensor will be located, since its installation is impossible under furniture or in the minimum proximity to the regulator. The use of infrared film means mounting the sensor from the wrong side.
- After completing the process of laying the floor you can start installing the thermostat. In a pre-selected location, make a recess in the wall for built-in appliances or mark on the wall surface when installing the outdoor unit.
- We compare the switched power type of the regulator with the power level of the heating elements. With a much lower indicator, you should install a specialized magnetic starter, which is designed to carry out the working process in a 220 V network.
- We proceed to connect the wires into a single chain. The wiring diagram must be located on the device case. Observing all the rules and tips, anyone can collect wires in a single circuit.
- At the end connect to the mains and check the functionality of the entire system. It is recommended to check before the flooring is fully installed, so that if a problem is found, it can be quickly corrected and easily reached. the right moment to heating elements.
Connecting the thermostat to a water heating floor
connection diagram Although the installation of a thermostat for water-based flooring is optional, many homeowners do install it. This allows you to control the level of warm water flow into the system.
The device can be selected as mechanical or electronic. Given the prevalence high degree inertia, it is recommended to purchase temperature sensors of air types.
Step by step guide:
- First of all we install the temperature sensor. The surface of the wall on which the sensor is located cannot be heated under any circumstances. This can disrupt the overall workflow of the system. The best option will be the placement of the sensor as close as possible to the thermostat.
- Directly in the heating system a specialized servo drive is being installed. Technical device is responsible for the supply of warm water pressure passing into the circuits.
- All wires available should be connected in one chain.
- Configure all elements.
- At the end of the installation you should connect to the network and check the performance of the entire structure. To do this, it is necessary to take measurements (about 90-120 minutes) with an ordinary thermometer in the place where the sensor is installed. Correct work should completely exclude fluctuations in indicators or their significant difference.
- Working with electricity should be carried out only after the circuit is de-energized, which will become a guarantor of safety.
Advantages and disadvantages
Like any other device, a thermostat for underfloor heating has a number of advantages and disadvantages.
Among the main advantages of the device are:
- Ease of management.
- Affordable pricing policy.
- Cost savings to pay for electricity.
- Ergonomic qualities of the device.
- Ease of conducting installation.
- Availability automatically configure the system for turning on and off the heated floor.
- Availability regulate the temperature regime.
- High quality equipment.
- Reliability of work regulator.
- Installed functional memory, which ensures the preservation of the setting in the event of a power outage.
The device has practically no drawbacks. The main disadvantage is the complexity of the functional programming of the settings system. However, having figured it out once during installation, there will be no further difficulties.
Each type of floor has its own type of thermostat.
Types of thermostats
Thermostats are classified into the following types:
Mechanical
A fairly simple, uncomplicated form of the device, which is produced in a built-in type case with a rotary switch located on the front side.
To control, you need to turn the switch in a circle. Some manufacturers equip the device with several "stages" of regulation. They are designated by bullet or numeric lists. The functional process is designed exclusively for manual switching on and off. Savings in energy costs are practically nonexistent or kept to a minimum.
Digital
Popular enough modern look thermostat. It makes it possible to carry out regulation at the most accurate level. It is produced in the form of an overhead design (or built-in) with a push-button or touch system input.
The digital display provides for setting the desired temperature regime with a minimum degree of error. As an addition, it is possible to have automatic shutdown and setting the power supply a few degrees lower, which will significantly save energy costs.
Programmable
An expensive but significantly efficient device that is available as a built-in type small size as well as having the shape of a large panel with a sensitive touch screen.
It makes it possible to install the most precise setting for the workflow of underfloor heating. For this, the desired work schedule for the time period is entered. The workflow of the device saves a significant level of energy costs.
Combined
Reminds of a simple regulator block with the presence external system control (external control panel). The mechanical device provides for manual switching on and off the power supply.
The setting, which implies the presence of an external control panel, makes it possible to bypass the rough installation of the structure on the wall surface. This is an added benefit to the unique design of the room.
Temperature change sensor
An ordinary type of thermostat is equipped with a single sensor, which is used to measure the temperature conditions of the floors. However, as practice shows, this is far from the most effective option.
Given the varied conditions of use of the underfloor heating system, it is better to use much more complex scheme temperature control.
In the case when the heating of the room is carried out exclusively from the warm floor, it is recommended to control the temperature regime by means of air heating sensors.
If the room uses flooring in the form of parquet, linoleum or, then the possibility of overheating should be excluded in advance, namely, to avoid the temperature rise above 25 degrees. In this case, it is more expedient to purchase and install a sensor designed to measure the difference in floor temperatures.
Regulators are subdivided into the following types (according to sensors):
- With built-in sensor, which measures the temperature regime.
- With the possibility of connecting an external sensor, which will control the temperature.
Devices that are designed to connect multiple sensors are used as the main type of space heating. By purchasing a digital type of device, it is possible to easily control the temperature of the flooring.
- The presence of a normal cross-section of the thermostat cable is mandatory. In the presence of old-time wiring, it is much safer to install a separate line, which will go from a specially designated machine.
- When using a thermostat to heat several rooms at the same time, it should be remembered that temperature control will only be possible in the room where the sensor is located. For this reason, there may be problems with temperature changes.
- The use of one regulator is strongly discouraged. in rooms with opposite operating conditions (or with a large temperature difference). It will become impossible to achieve the desired heating in all rooms.
- The best option would be to use a separate thermostat. for each room with warm floors.
