I continue to build a house in the Crimea from shell rock - armopoyas, columns. Construction of a shell rock house: the Crimean experience Reinforced belt under the foundation

Reinforced Belt- a special design that is used for secure fixation brickwork, for a reason not enough a solid foundation, various weather disasters, etc. Consider the process of making an armored belt using the example of a two-story house made of shell rock.

How is a do-it-yourself armopoyas made?

Stage 1. Preparation of the formwork

To create a frame for an armored belt, it is necessary to prepare wooden boards for formwork. The board is 40 mm thick and 200 mm wide. After that, using the guides, as shown in the photo, we fasten the formwork. To do this, we use nails 90-120 mm, the protruding parts of which are carefully folded. The rails will also need to be attached to the load-bearing wall for structural rigidity.

Important... Boards for future formwork should be located outside the wall, and not inside, that is, lean against the wall, in the overlay of the masonry by 2-4 centimeters.

Stage 2. Fixing the formwork

Along the width of the wall, guiding elements are made from a board or bar. We use nails to fix it to a 40 mm board. This is done so that during the pouring of concrete, our formwork does not come apart.

Stage 3. Close up the joints

We carry out a small batch, which we use to cover the end gaps along the entire perimeter of the formwork. To do this, it is best to use a thick solution that will not drain into these cracks, but will clog them.

Stage 4. Reinforcement

To do this, we need corrugated reinforcement that will fit along the entire wall along the perimeter of the formwork. It is necessary to lay corrugated fittings in two rows, one row will be laid closer to the outer wall, and the other closer to the inner wall. Without fail, the entire armopoyas must be welded, all joints and connections, as shown in the photo. The protruding corners of the armored belt must be bent, along the perimeter in the corners we bend the reinforcement in the direction of the formwork. As a result, we should have two solid reinforced rings around the perimeter of the entire building.

Stage 5. Grid

On top of the reinforcement, set the grid in squares, as shown in the photo. We use a special knitting wire to fix the mesh to the reinforcement. It is necessary to tie the mesh around the entire perimeter of the building without gaps. The height of the armored belt should be at least 15 centimeters.

Step 6. Fixing the formwork

In order to prevent the formwork in the upper part from breaking apart during the pouring of concrete, we use boards for fastening with a gap, as shown by the red line in the photo below. We fix the board, which is fastened to the formwork with nails.

Stage 7. Blank concrete mortar

The mortar does not have to be made as for brickwork, it can be used from a sand-gravel mixture. That is, you can use sand and gravel of larger fractions, you can add a little rubble. We use a cement grade of 400 or 300, when using a 400 grade for 1 part of cement, add 4 parts of a sand-gravel mixture, if a 300 grade of cement, then add 3 parts of a sand-gravel mixture to 1 part of cement. In order to measure the filling level of the solution, it is necessary with inside nail nails to a height of 15 centimeters, which are connected with a construction thread. Thus, we get the level at which we will pour our solution. After the solution around the entire perimeter of the building is poured at the top of the level, it must be infused for 2-3 weeks. Depending on the weather conditions, it will need to be periodically moistened with water to concrete screed gained strength and did not crack. This is especially important during the hot season.

A reinforced belt (armored belt) is a closed reinforced structure that repeats the outline of the building walls and blocks their deformation as a result of redistribution of loads. That is, the armopoyas allows you to avoid the effects of unfavorable weather conditions, when the house shrinks, the soil subsides, etc. Reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armopoyas acquires particular relevance when erecting houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformations.

- this is a common masonry, reinforced with reinforcement. At first glance, this approach is easier than pouring a full-fledged monolithic armored belt made of concrete with reinforcement. However, is this approach enough? Will such a reinforced masonry replace a full-fledged armopoyas? First, let's figure out what types of armpoints are and what functions are assigned to them.

The main functions of the armpole

strengthening the walls;
provides even distribution loads;
prevents the formation of cracks;
helps to level brickwork;
maintaining the integrity of the structure when the house shrinks.

Types of reinforced belts

It is customary to distinguish 4 types of reinforced belts.

Grillage.

Grillage- this is the lower, sub-foundation armored belt, which is the key to the strength of the entire building. In addition, it can bind columnar and pile foundation piles. The height of the grillage is from 30 to 50 cm, the width is 70 - 120 cm. For manufacturing, reinforcement with a thickness of 12 - 14 mm is used. For greater reliability and durability, concrete should cover the reinforcement cage by 5 cm on each side.

Base armopoyas

It is laid around the entire perimeter. outer walls... In the event that slabs serve as an overlap, it is recommended to do it along all load-bearing walls. The main function of the basement armored belt is the distribution of loads on the foundation. Mesh reinforcement with a height of 20 - 40 cm is used;

Interfloor (unloading) belt

It is built to strengthen and tighten the walls, as well as to prevent the formation of cracks. In addition, it absorbs and distributes the load of the entire structure. Lay on everything load-bearing walls;

Armopoyas under the Mauerlat

Armopoyas under the Mauerlat - performs a number of useful functions: it allows you to securely fix the Mauerlat itself, distributes the load from the roof, gables, rafter system, levels the horizontal line of the entire structure being erected. It is mounted along the perimeter of external walls, in some cases (with inclined rafters) - on the middle load-bearing wall. When creating a reinforcing cage, the studs are displayed above it. A thread is made at the end of the rods, and the corresponding holes in the Mauerlat. After the poured concrete hardens and gains strength, the Mauerlat is installed on the studs and fixed with bolts.

In the manufacture of an armored belt, special requirements are imposed on the quality of concrete. It is recommended to use a cement grade of at least M200. The concrete mixture is poured once, which will allow it to harden evenly and set well. For higher strength, concrete is periodically wetted.

Is it worth making a brick armature belt?

So is it worth the risk and instead of a full-fledged armopoyas made of concrete and reinforcement make an armpoyas out of bricks? In our opinion - no! Brickwork is only slightly stronger than block masonry, even when reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load along the walls. This will cause some fragments and areas of the brickwork to experience high blood pressure, in comparison with the rest of the wall, and this is dangerous with the appearance of cracks and even complete destruction of the wall. Therefore, it would be right not to risk it, and to make a full-fledged reinforcement with an armored belt made of reinforced concrete.

A monolithic belt is a reinforced reinforced concrete beam, which is made mainly under the ceiling in the masonry walls.

At first glance, the purpose of such a belt is not clear: you can, after all, support the overlap directly on the masonry and not arrange any belts. As the saying goes, "cheap and cheerful." Let's analyze the reasons for the device monolithic belt.

1. If the material of the masonry walls does not bear the load from the floor. In a brick wall of solid brick, for example, a monolithic belt is not needed, but in a cinder block wall when the ceiling is supported long span such a belt is necessary.

In the place of support of the slab, a significant load is concentrated (from the floor, floors, people and furniture), and all of it does not fall evenly on the wall, but increases towards the support of the slabs. Some masonry materials(cinder block, foam and aerated concrete, shell rock, etc.) do not work well for the effect of such a concentrated load, and may simply begin to collapse. This type of destruction is called collapse. A special masonry calculation can be carried out to determine if a monolithic distribution chord is needed. But in some cases (when using cinder block, foam concrete), a monolithic belt must be made from design considerations due to the experience of building from these materials.

2. If the building is being built on soft soils (for example, on subsidence). Such soils tend to deform significantly after some time, when soaked or other unfavorable factors - to shrink under the weight of the building. In this case, part of the house can sink, as a result, and cracks are formed in the walls and foundation. One of the measures that protect against the adverse effects of subsidence is the construction of a continuous monolithic belt under the ceilings. It serves as a screed for the house and can prevent cracking in case of slight precipitation. If you are going to build a house, the first thing to do is to inspect the houses in the neighboring lots (preferably those that were built a long time ago). If there are inclined cracks in the walls, going up from the ground, down from the roof or up from the corners of the windows, then this is the first sign that a monolithic belt in your house will not be superfluous.

3. If the house is being built in a seismic region (in Ukraine it is the Crimea), the installation of monolithic belts is mandatory.

4. In multi-storey buildings, according to the norms, the device of monolithic belts is also required.

How to make a monolithic belt - see the topic "Prefabricated floor or monolith " .

Attention! For the convenience of answering your questions, a new section "FREE CONSULTATION" has been created.

Comments (1)

0 # 61 Irina 05/06/2013 19:00

I quote Angelina Wat:

I want as much of what I need, because every builder counts and speaks in his own way

In order to find out how much of what is needed, you need to know what is available: the layout of the house, the presence of load-bearing walls or columns, the distance between them, the loads on the upper floor from the floors, partitions - this is the required minimum.

Hello! The foundation is not buried. Partly - a squatter, but the path of construction was determined by a person who has been dealing with foundations for more than 50 years, a professor at our University, an honored builder of the Republic of Karelia (and so on. Regalia).
With normal soil, crushed stone of a coarse fraction was brought, in very large quantities, poured about 50-70 cm high above the ground level, and protruding in area beyond the perimeter of the future foundation by a couple of meters on each side. Aligned. Then a large construction vibratory roller was found (it worked half a kilometer at the facility), which drove this rubble for a couple of hours. To tell the truth, only the first "passes" of the vibratory roller, apparently to the eyesight, squandered the rubble. After that, to level the horizon, sand is a thin layer on top of the rubble. Further waterproofing on the top, formwork and fittings. I knitted the armature for the first time, myself. 14th reinforcement, along the perimeter and in the area of the bearing walls (under the wall and one meter to the right and left) every 10 centimeters, the rest - 15 cm. Two planes at a distance of 30 centimeters from each other. It was recommended to knit the reinforcement less often, and a thickness of 30 centimeters is enough. On the foundation 12 by 12 meters, 5 tons of reinforcement were used, and at 42 cm of thickness - 66 cubic meters of concrete of grade 250. I understand that it is possible that I over-laid a little with the foundation, but that year I was looking for people to do foundation work. They asked for work from 200 thousand rubles. and higher. I decided that it would be better to invest this money in the foundation than in increasing the well-being of strangers. For two weeks of vacation, without haste, with the help of my father, they tied the armature. I was confident in every node. It took 5 hours to fill it with imported concrete using a concrete pump on the basis of the Isuzu car. I plan to start laying the walls as soon as the snow melts, the brick is already on the site. I will reinforce the walls conscientiously. Now I'm looking for normal bricklayers. It hurts to ask them at the present time. They ask for a rough masonry for 2800 rubles. per cube, plus additional payments for each movement of the hand and turn of the head.
They puff under the slabs to make an armopoyas 5 cm thick, with two thin reinforcing bars inside. It is clear that from this, as from an armopoyas, there is little sense. Just a leveling screed. It is understandable to do the screed and it will have to be so, but is it worth bothering with a full-fledged armored belt 30-40 centimeters thick and the corresponding reinforcement - THIS IS A QUESTION! I would be grateful for any constructive advice. The fact is that about aerated concrete - and there would be no questions, I would do it unequivocally. And with a brick - it is not yet clear. It seems that brick, as a material for load-bearing walls in private housing construction, has generally gone out of fashion. All are built exclusively from aerated concrete.

After you have finished construction of a foundation made of concrete blocks or laid it out of rubble stone, you must complete it. Some inexperienced developers, not understanding the meaning of the monolithic belt, do not make it, trying to save money on it. And this is an unforgivable mistake! The monolithic reinforced concrete belt of your home is a kind of strong and reliable belt on your trousers, which, no matter how and where you rip your trousers, rip off a button or "zipper", will keep them on you in any situation! (For some reason, such an association occurred to me! 🙂 The main task of such a belt is to ensure the strength of the foundation in the event of local subsidence of the soil under it. In addition, such a belt connects the entire foundation into one whole, which gives it additional spatial rigidity.

The minimum height of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is 200 mm. As a rule, it is performed over the entire width of the foundation, because it is much easier and easier to install this way. formwork for a monolithic belt... The quality of the monolithic belt directly depends on the quality of the formwork. Previously, the formwork for a monolithic reinforced concrete belt was made of edged boards 40 mm thick. The material is not bad, in principle, it may be enough for the construction of one house. And yet the quality of the front surface of the belt with such formwork is low. It is best to use moisture resistant plywood or chipboard for formwork. For several years now, we have been manufacturing formwork for a monolithic belt from moisture-resistant chipboard. Having cut a sheet, which has dimensions of 2500x1250mm, lengthwise into two equal parts, you need to strengthen the resulting blanks with a size of 2500x620mm wooden lath section 40x40 or 50x50mm, securing it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws 3.5x55mm. Also, so that the middle of the formwork panels does not bend over time from high humidity, you need to strengthen it with several short slats of the same section. Before installing such formwork panels, they must be opened each time with any water-repellent compound. The easiest option is to use used engine oil.

We set such formwork panels via
metal studs with a diameter of 12-16mm. The length of such pins should exceed not only the width of the future belt, but also the thickness of the formwork. To the resulting size, add another 40-50mm - for nuts and washers. With the help of such a pin, we pull two shields together, and in order to accurately maintain the required width of the monolithic belt and easily remove the pin after the concrete has set, we use liners from the cheapest plastic water pipe with a diameter of 16-20mm. In the photo, everything that I am trying to explain in words, you can see and understand the principle of installing the formwork for a monolithic belt in this way. Install the studs in

two tiers: the lower tier is laid directly on the foundation, under bottom reinforcement frame, while the plastic tube serves as a kind of guarantor of the obligatory 20 mm protective layer of concrete for reinforcement. The top tier of hairpins is located directly above the bottom tier. Depending on the height of the belt, for the upper studs, if they are higher than the concrete, the liners from the tubes can be omitted.

For a shield with a length of 2500 mm, six such pins are needed. Stud holes are best done in vertical reinforcement rails.

formwork panels. In this case, the shields will last you much longer. I write "hairpin", although in fact a metal rod of the required diameter with a thread cut on each side with a length of 50 mm is suitable for such an attachment. Alternatively, you can make a threaded pin on one side only, fixing a plug of any material on the other side.

This method of installing the formwork is very convenient because it does not require a large amount of additional wooden fastening to secure the shields. Depending on the chord height, only a few braces are required to ensure that the installed formwork is vertical. Reinforcement cages and nets is best knitted with knitting wire, but can also be made with welding machine... The height of the frame must be less height belts 40mm. The frame of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is made of A-III reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm, which is arranged in two tiers. For a wall 400 mm wide, three reinforcement bars in two tiers are enough. Wire Вр-I with a diameter of 4-6 mm can be used as assembly fittings.

First, reinforcement cages are laid on the wall, after which the formwork is installed. It is possible to mark the top of the belt concrete on the formwork using a level, hydro level or conventional

level, although the latter can only be used with a short belt length. The standard grade of concrete for a monolithic reinforced concrete belt is M250. It is best to lay it in the formwork using a deep vibrator, the use of which guarantees high quality finished belt. By the way, the use of such pins will definitely prevent the concrete from moving the formwork apart. If you're going to pour monolithic reinforced concrete belt small width, these studs can also be used, regardless of their length, by inserting additional inserts with outside studs so that the nut can press the outer insert against the formwork.

After you remove the formwork, only the end of the tube with the hole will be visible on its surface. By filling it in polyurethane foam or just a solution, the device of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt can be considered complete.

Armopoyas is metal structure, made by hand from fittings. Its purpose is to increase the strength of load-bearing walls and maintain integrity under impact natural conditions and during ground movement. When building a house, several such belts are mounted. The formwork for the armopoyas is laid in order to create load-bearing walls or floors. It is poured with concrete until it solidifies.

The advantage of this formwork is ease of installation, the minimum amount necessary materials and tools, low financial costs and ease of dismantling. For stripping, you will need to remove the fasteners and remove the boards after the concrete has set. In the future, they can be reassembled and formwork made for another structure.

The principle of creating a structure for an armored belt does not differ from the technology of formwork for a foundation or window openings.

Construction for a house made of aerated concrete

According to the scheme described above, you can make do-it-yourself formwork for any type of house. The device is suitable for bricks, aerated concrete, concrete. Armopoyas promotes high-quality connection of the roof to the building frame. In a house made of aerated concrete, it is fastened using additional blocks or formwork. The first option is easier, but expensive. Cheaper to do it yourself wooden structure... The instruction helps to build it correctly:

Diagram of the section of the armopoyas in the formwork for the gas block

Boards with a height of 30 cm are drilled to the aerated concrete wall.
Attach screeds every 50-70 cm to increase the strength of the structure and prevent deformation under the influence of heavy concrete.
Lay reinforcement with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm inside. The choice depends on the location of the house. If the walls will be negatively impacted environment, then rods with a maximum diameter will do. In regions with calm seismic conditions, you can save on fittings by choosing inexpensive models with a minimum diameter.
Place the reinforcement on special sprockets, which creates an active bottom layer on aerated concrete blocks.
Tie the rods with wire.
Pour concrete, compact and level the layer.

If the formwork is installed for the purpose of fastening the roof, then before pouring the concrete, studs are installed to fasten the floors. They can be of any length, but it is more convenient to work with specimens less than 1 meter long.

Experts will help you to make the right formwork for an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete in case of difficulties. Before work, it is recommended to make calculations to prevent mistakes and purchase the right amount building materials.

Nuances when working with a wooden structure

Formwork made of wooden planks requires a competent approach. If the structure is incorrectly installed, there is a risk of breakage and rupture of the boards under the influence of concrete mortar. To do the work with your own hands correctly, you need to take into account several nuances:

the formwork device consists of boards, which must be fastened with careful control over the verticality and horizontalness of the structure;
the surface of the boards in contact with concrete is cleaned and leveled;
for reuse elements, easy dismantling of the structure and prevention of concrete leakage, the shields from the inside are covered with foil;
if you soak the boards with used oil or hydrophobic grease, it will be much easier to do it yourself with your own hands;
multiple use of boards is not allowed. If they were exposed to atmospheric precipitation, they will most likely be destroyed when reused;
a non-removable structure is rarely made, more often it is assembled from expanded polystyrene blocks, with already built-in fittings. This is laid by stringing elements on rods;
before work, it is worth making a choice between the initial manufacture of the armopoyas and the formwork. In some cases, it is easier to lay the reinforcement on aerated concrete blocks, and then proceed to the collection of the wooden structure.

The formwork for the reinforcement frame is made independently without the use of expensive materials and special equipment. But only competently organized and carried out work guarantees the creation of a reliable and solid construction... If difficulties arise during the assembly process, it is recommended to seek professional advice to prevent serious mistakes that can lead to the destruction of the structure.

Remove from wooden barrel steel hoops and it will fall apart. Remove the reinforced belt from the house and the building will not stand for a long time. This is a simplified but very visual explanation of the need to strengthen the walls. Anyone who is going to build a solid house will find useful information about the purpose, types and device of armored belts.

What is this structure and what functions does it perform? Armopoyas is a tape made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of a building under construction.

The filling of the reinforced belt is carried out in the foundation, under the floor slabs and under the Mauerlats (support beams of the rafters).

This amplification method performs four important functions:

Increases the spatial rigidity of the building.
Protects the foundation and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil.
Prevents heavy floor slabs from pushing through fragile gas and foam concrete.
Connects securely rafter system roofs with walls made of lightweight blocks.

The main material for increasing the rigidity of the walls was and remains reinforced concrete. For small outbuildings, you can use a less powerful brick armored belt. It consists of 4-5 rows of brickwork, the width of which is equal to the width of the bearing wall. In the seam of each row, a grid with a cell of 30-40 mm from steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm.

Strengthening the walls with a reinforced belt is not always required. Therefore, you do not need to waste money on its device in the following cases:

solid soil (rocky, coarse or coarse sand, not saturated with water) lies under the base of the foundation;
walls are built of bricks;
under construction cottage that overlaps wooden beams rather than reinforced concrete panels.

If the site contains weak soils (dusty sand, loam, clay, loess, peat), then the answer to the question of whether a reinforcing belt is needed is obvious. You cannot do without it in the case when the walls are built from expanded clay or cellular blocks (foam or aerated concrete).

These are fragile materials. They do not withstand ground movements and point loads from floor slabs. Armopoyas eliminates the risk of wall deformation and evenly distributes the load from the slabs to the blocks.

For wood concrete blocks (the wall thickness is at least 30 cm, and the strength grade is at least B2.5), an armo-belt is not needed.

For Mauerlat

The wooden beam on which the rafters rest is called the mauerlat. It cannot push through the foam block, so it may seem to someone that an armored belt is not needed for it. However, the correct answer to this question depends on the material from which the house is built. Mounting a Mauerlat without an armored belt is allowed for brick walls... They securely hold the anchors with which the Mauerlat is attached to them.

If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armopoyas will have to be poured. In aerated concrete, foam concrete and expanded clay blocks anchoring it is impossible to fix it securely. Therefore, very strong wind can tear the Mauerlat off the wall along with the roof.

For the foundation

Here the approach to the problem of amplification does not change. If the foundation is mounted from FBS blocks, then the armopoyas is definitely necessary. Moreover, it must be done in two levels: at the level of the sole (base) of the foundation and at its upper cut. This solution will protect the structure from intense loads arising from the rise and settlement of the soil.

For rubble concrete strip foundations, reinforcement with a reinforced belt is also required, at least at the level of the sole. Rubble concrete is an economical material, but not resistant to ground movements; therefore, it needs reinforcement. But the monolithic "tape" does not need an armored belt, since its basis is a steel volumetric frame.

There is no need for a device of this structure for a solid foundation slab, which is poured under buildings on soft soils.

For what types of interfloor floors do you need an armopoyas?

Under the panels that rest on expanded clay concrete blocks, gas or foam concrete, a reinforced belt must be done without fail.

Monolithic reinforced concrete floor it does not need to be poured, since it evenly transfers the load to the walls and firmly binds them into a single spatial structure.

Armopoyas under a wooden floor, which rests on light blocks (aerated concrete, expanded clay, foam concrete) is not required. In this case, it will be enough to fill the support platforms made of concrete with a thickness of 4-6 cm under the beams in order to exclude the risk of pushing the blocks.

How to make an armopoyas correctly?

The technology for the device of a reinforced stiffening belt is no different from the method of pouring a monolithic foundation.

In general, it consists of three operations:

Reinforcement cage manufacturing;
Formwork installation;
Pouring with concrete.

Certain subtleties and nuances in the work appear depending on the location of the armopoyas.

Reinforced belt for foundation

Answering the question of how to make a reinforced belt under the foundation (level 1), let's say that its width should be 30-40 cm more than the width of the supporting part of the main concrete "tape". This will significantly reduce the building's ground pressure. Depending on the number of storeys of the house, the thickness of such a stiffening belt can be from 40 to 50 cm.

The reinforced belt of the first level is made for all load-bearing walls of the building, and not just for the outer ones. The frame for it is made by knitting reinforcement clamps. Welding is used only for preliminary connection (tacking) of the main reinforcement into a general spatial structure.

Armoias of the second level (on the foundation)

This construction is essentially a continuation strip foundation(rubble concrete, block). To reinforce it, it is enough to use 4 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm, tying them with clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If the main foundation is concrete, then there are no problems with installing the formwork under the armored belt. To do this, you need to leave in it free place(20-30 cm) for the installation of the reinforcing cage, taking into account the protective layer of concrete (3-4 cm).

With FBS blocks, the situation is more complicated, since no formwork is placed for them. In this case, you should use wooden spacers, which support the formwork panels from below. Before installation, trim boards are stuffed on the boards, which protrude beyond the dimensions of the formwork by 20-30 cm and do not allow the structure to move to the right or left. To connect the formwork panels, short cross-beams are nailed along the top of the boards.

Option for fixing the armopoyas formwork on foundation blocks

The fastening system can be simplified by using threaded rods. They are put in pairs in the formwork panels at a distance of 50-60 cm. Having tightened the studs with nuts, we get a sufficiently strong and stable structure for pouring concrete without wooden supports and crossbars.

This system is also suitable for formwork, which requires an armored belt for floor slabs.

Studs, which will be filled with concrete, need to be wrapped in glassine or a little machine oil should be applied to them. This will facilitate the task of removing them from the concrete after it has hardened.

Armopoyas for floor slabs

Ideally, its width should be equal to the width of the wall. This can be done in the case when the facade will be completely revetted. slab insulation... If it is decided to use only plaster solution for decoration, then the width of the armopoyas will have to be reduced by 4-5 centimeters in order to leave room for foam or mineral wool. Otherwise, in the zone of laying the stiffening belt, a through bridge of cold will appear of a very solid size.

Making an armored belt on aerated concrete, you can use another solution. It consists in installing two thin blocks along the edges of the masonry. A steel frame is placed in the space between them and concrete is poured. The blocks act as formwork and insulate the belt.

If the thickness aerated concrete wall 40 cm, then for this purpose you can use partition blocks 10 cm thick.

With a smaller wall thickness, you can cut it out with your own hands in a standard masonry block a cavity for an armored belt or buy a ready-made aerated concrete U-block.

Reinforced belt under the Mauerlat

The main feature that distinguishes the armo-belt under the Mauerlat from other types of reinforcement is the presence of anchor pins in it. With their help, the timber is firmly fixed to the wall without the risk of tearing off or shifting under the influence of wind loads.

The width and height of the reinforcing cage must be such that, after the structure has been embeddable, at least 3-4 cm of a protective layer of concrete remains on all sides between the metal and the outer surface of the belt.

In we talked about the modern construction realities in the Crimea. Namely: about local priorities in choice wall material, its properties and qualities; about the technology of building a house, prices for wood, aerated concrete, limestone, shell rock and sand. We also considered the question of what is better to build from stone house: from aerated concrete or outlandish for Moscow, but popular on the Crimean peninsula "shells". We continue the started topic and, relying on the experience of a member of the portal with the nickname huntdogs, consider a shell rock house and answer the following questions:

Do I need to link two different foundations.
How to build a strip foundation with a height difference on the site.
How much does it cost to build a foundation in Crimea?
How to fill seismic columns in a house built of shell stone.

How to build a shell rock house on two different foundations

Although the construction site huntdogs- in full swing, and there is still a lot to build, the shell rock house has already acquired its "face".

We wrote earlier that huntdogs remade the original project, because changed his mind about building a one-and-a-half-story building with an attic and gave preference classic version- a full-fledged two-story house With gable roof... But due to lack of funds, the construction of the cottage is planned to be extended over time, and then an additional one with a terrace and a veranda will be attached to the main "box".

Sample house

At this stage, huntdogs the question arose whether it is possible to make an annex on separate foundation close to the main house and whether it is necessary to connect it to the main tape. The following responses from portal users followed.

BurivesNIK Member of FORUMHOUSE

I already have a negative experience of binding to the main strip foundation of the secondary - slab under the garage. Result: Two seasons passed and everything went away. Foundations each live their own "life", and now the relatives have to regularly cover up and foaming the vertical and horizontal cracks that have appeared. I think that in the case of huntdogs, it is best to make an extension on an independent foundation, but then there is a problem of waterproofing the junction unit, because water can flow into the gap between the two foundations.

To get away from this, the user suggested pouring under the extension pile foundation with "heels" with a hanging grillage, after having laid the mortgages for the bearing columns of the veranda. Then, in the process of building the veranda, the covering of the terrace is dismantled, columns are placed, and the second floor is erected.

Eric Nord FORUMHOUSE Member

My godfather flooded two unconnected strip foundations, and then this amazing person mounted on them FBS blocks with dressing. Subsequently, cracks appeared on the plastered walls. Two unrelated foundations, each "lives" in its own way.

huntdogs FORUMHOUSE user

Judging by the experience of those who have already built, it is impossible to tie two different foundations - it will break. If they are to be built, then 2 separate and independent from each other. I will think about how best to build the foundation for the extension. In my opinion, using piles with a grillage is not a bad idea.

In order not to guess how the foundation will behave in a few years, it must be calculated for a specific building. Mandatory - taking into account the data of the geology of the soil at the site, its bearing capacity and collecting loads from the future home.

Erection of a strip foundation with a difference in height on the site

huntdogs under the shell rock house, I decided to fill the strip foundation, which is classic for the Crimea. Foundation dimensions:

length - 10200 mm;
width - 6900 mm.

For this, a trench was dug (removing a layer of black soil to dense clay) 1000 mm deep and 450 mm wide.

A "pillow" of ASG, about 30 cm, is poured onto the bottom and tamped thoroughly.

Our article talks about how and how it can harm.

huntdogs

They decided to take the ASG, since it is cheaper than sand. Compare: sand in Crimea costs 2 thousand rubles. per 1 ton, and ASG with a small admixture of sea pebbles - 1200 rubles. for 1 ton. The prices are high, but it is necessary to build. We ordered 5 tons.

ASGs were poured into buckets and already poured out of them into a narrow trench.

About prices: the cost of renting a vibro-leg (a vibrating plate will not fit into a trench) is 1200 rubles / day + a deposit of 10 thousand rubles.

We add that the height difference in the area in the foundation construction spot is 1200 mm (from the highest to the lowest point). Based on this, as well as to save concrete, the user decided to fill the foundation in two steps. First they erect underground part, release embedded (reinforcement), and then fill the above-ground part of the foundation. Moreover, in order to reduce costs, the top of the tape is made with steps, which are then filled with shell rock, and the plane is brought to zero before further laying the walls.

The process of building the foundation was broken down into a series of sequential steps:

1. A permanent formwork made of sheets of flat slate was installed in the trench. According to the user, at first he thought of pouring the solution directly into the ground, covering the trench with polyethylene, but as a result, the trench, especially the corners, began to crumble.

We bought used slate for 100 rubles. per sheet 0.9x1.4 m. The sheets were sawn in half. The same new slate costs 500 rubles. for 1 sheet.

Total for slate formwork huntdogs spent 10 thousand rubles.

2. Reinforcement of the strip foundation. Reinforcement "ten", laid three rods from the bottom, two rods in the middle of the tape and three rods - in the upper part of the foundation, not forgetting to leave embedded - outlets of reinforcement under the "base".

The clamps were made from "six" fittings.

3. Pouring the underground part of the foundation.

huntdogs

The foundation was poured using a concrete pump. The thing is convenient, but expensive. In total, 15 cubic meters of concrete were used for pouring. 1 cube of concrete costs differently, but on average they ask for from 4500 to 5200 rubles. Rent of a concrete pump - 8 thousand rubles per hour.

When pouring the foundation, you need to remember about the need to vibrate the concrete.

4. Assembling the formwork of the aboveground part of the strip foundation.

The basement part of the "tape" comes with two ledges.

The most difficult thing is to level the formwork, doing it alone.

1 cube of boards cost almost 10 thousand rubles.

After assembly, the formwork was tightened plastic wrap density of 200 microns.

Life hack from FORUMHOUSE: huntdogs, having beaten off the “zero” level along the entire perimeter of the formwork, he took advantage of the portal users' suggestions on how to control the horizon when pouring concrete. To do this, take an ordinary plaster "beacon" of 10 mm and attach it with screws to the walls of the formwork according to the marks left from the hydraulic level.

In addition to a clear visual reference, which, unlike stretched lines or steel cables, will not break, an additional bonus of the method is that internal guides are obtained along which it is convenient to pull concrete mix with a wide trowel to achieve an even top of the foundation.

On the portal there is material where they are given, which will not burst when pouring concrete.

5. Reinforcement of the corners of the strip foundation and pouring concrete.

Additionally, the user made a tray for feeding concrete into the formwork.

huntdogs

The concrete was poured using a hydraulic tray to 9 meters. It is convenient to feed the mixture to the far corners of the foundation. At the same time I tested plaster "beacons" to control the level of the horizon. The idea works 100%!

This is what the user finally got after stripping the formwork.

Estimates for the construction of a strip foundation in Crimea

The costs of building a foundation are interesting:

Dig a trench 1 meter deep, 0.45 m wide, 50 running meters, only about 22.5 cubic meters of land - 10 thousand rubles. It is budgetary, with an average Crimean price of 800 rubles. for digging 1 cube of land.
Used flat slate ( fixed formwork) - 100 sheets of 100 rubles. for 1 sheet - 10 thousand rubles.
Formwork boards 3 cubes - 35 thousand rubles.
Polyethylene - more than 3 thousand rubles.
Rebar with a diameter of 10 mm, only 300 m - 10 thousand rubles.
24 cubic meters of concrete at a price of 4700 rubles. for 1 cubic meter - 112 800 rubles.
Consumption (self-tapping screws, knitting wire) - was not considered.

Total: without taking into account the work on the foundation, it took about 200 thousand rubles. (if you add small things and additional costs).

huntdogs

I did everything I could on my own - knitted reinforcement cages, put the formwork, poured concrete, etc. All important work - the construction of the foundation, floors, reinforcement, etc. I also did it myself. The "mercenaries" worked only under the vigilant control of me. Build something for yourself.