Where to plant roses in the country. Roses in the country, planting and care

Since ancient times, the rose has been sung by poets as an exquisite fragrant flower. Beauty, romance, love are the words that come to mind when this flower is mentioned. How the dacha flourishes in such a wonderful neighborhood! And how wonderful it is to walk along the winding paths of your dacha and admire the blossoming pink miracle, carefully planted with your own hands.

A beautifully blooming rose garden is a delight to the eyes on garden plot, many gardeners are professionals in this matter. However, the professionals were also newcomers and dreamed of decorating the dacha with flowers. Before planting this wonderful flower, you need to study the rules for planting a rose, the features of its feeding and watering, familiarize yourself with the rules for growing, cutting flowers and covering rose bushes for the winter.

For good growth with a bright, abundant flowering of rose bushes, it is necessary to choose the right place for their growth. They always need sunlight, but they are afraid of the cold north wind, so it is preferable to plant them in the southern or southeastern part. suburban area.

Before planting rose bushes, you should consider a plan for a garden rose garden: which varieties will be planted in which place. Climbing roses, for example, grow better than other roses. Usually even one bush will look rich and picturesque in the country.

But if you want to see the whole pink wall, then when planting, a distance between the bushes of 1.2-2 m should be observed.Roses of miniature varieties are arranged at a distance of 50-70 cm, and for bush varieties the optimal will be 1-1.5 m.

Growing roses: planting

For successful landing you will need:

shovel;
watering can;
rake;
planting material;
small stones, expanded clay;
some sand;
fertilizers (potash, organic matter, superphosphate), ash.

The most favorable time for planting roses in the country is spring, depending on the weather, both the end of April and the beginning of May are suitable. Roses are thermophilic plants and demanding on the heated soil. Autumn planting is risky in our area because some of the planted bushes will not be able to root well, they will die in frosts.

But the ground for the spring planting of roses is prepared in the fall. At the summer cottage, they dig holes of half a meter in diameter of the same depth. At the bottom, drainage is arranged in several layers. Small stones and expanded clay will fit for its device. This layer is covered with sand on top (up to 10 cm). On wet heavy soils in the country, drainage is strictly required. Roses do not like excessive dampness.

Correct planting of roses.

It is recommended to put organic matter on the sandy layer - rotten grass (without seeds!), Leaves, dust from aged trees. All of this comes in handy as a wonderful fertilizer for roses. Upper and last layer(about 25 cm) can be covered with the old, weed-free soil or peat. It is advisable to pay attention to the acidity of the land in the country.

Roses love neutral or slightly acidic earth. If in the country acidic soil, it is nice to add ash to the peat, dolomite flour(1/1). Neutral soil can be diluted with fertilizers. A planting pit for a rose bush will require superphosphate, organic matter, potash fertilizers in a proportion of 25 g / 7 kg / 10 g.

Starting planting, it is necessary to make a thorough examination of the roots: the damaged areas are cut directly to living tissue, good roots are left approximately 20 cm long.A bush should also be cut off: dry, weak shoots are cut out completely, 6 buds are left for strong ones, and 3 for medium ones.

When planting, be sure to cover the grafting site with a layer of earth 5-7 cm. Then the ground around the rose bush must be tamped, and the planting itself must be watered (at least 1 bucket of water per bush). To protect seedlings from bright spring rays, you can apply non-woven fabric... When the heat is established and the ground in the country house is completely warmed up, they remove the shelter and dislodge the shoots. The size of the shoots by this time reaches 5 cm.

To stimulate good growth in roses, when planting, the tops of the shoots are pruned.

When planting roses in the fall in the country, the pits should be prepared in advance (1-1.5 months). Climbing roses are planted near the support and deeper.

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It is not enough to plant roses, you need to grow them according to the rules of agricultural technology. And growing roses is a troublesome business, including feeding, pruning, watering, shelter for the winter from frost. Two days after planting, the soil around the seedlings is loosened very carefully, trying not to touch the roots. Further, hilling is done with earth (up to 10 cm). As soon as the buds begin to grow, the earth is removed from the shoots.

Now is the time to feed the roses with complex fertilizer. The amount of fertilizer should not exceed 20 g / bush. Re-feeding is organized in the middle of summer. This is necessary for the abundant full blooming of roses. It is very useful to spend every two years spring feeding rose bushes with a small amount of manure. When growing rose bushes in the country, pinching the shoots makes it possible to adjust the timing of the flowering of roses.

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About the intricacies of watering

Roses need to be watered weekly. The best time for watering roses is evening, early morning. During the periods of formation of shoots, as well as during flowering, watering is made abundant. But getting the leaves wet should be avoided.

Even when planting, an earthen roller should be formed around the rose bush. It will help in the future to avoid spreading water. And after watering, as it dries, the soil near the roses must be loosened, since the roots of the plant need oxygen.

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How to defeat disease

To grow roses productively, you must learn all the problems inherent in them. All plants, including roses, are susceptible to disease and damage from various pests. In the spring, they begin to protect roses from aphids, spraying young shoots with an insecticide once every 3 weeks. From a disease called powdery mildew during the growing season, rose bushes are sprayed with fungicides.

If the roses are infected with black spot or rust, the affected leaves must be removed, and the plants should be sprayed with products containing copper and zinc. Early enough in the spring, for prevention purposes, it is best to treat rose bushes with a fungicide specially invented for roses.

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Growing features

Dried rose flowers should be picked. This is necessary for the appearance of new buds on the bushes and lengthening the flowering period. It happens that many buds are tied on one shoot. But to get a large flower, remove everything except the central one.

In a similar way, they get rid of the processes from the lower buds of the stem, because they will retard the growth and full development of the central shoot. The strong young shoots of the rose at a height of 30 cm are pruned because they enhance the formation of lateral shoots. Light green barren wilds should be removed completely.

No one will argue that the name of the queen of the garden was given to the rose for a reason. In the future, hardly anyone will be able to move her from this pedestal, little will change in terms of the main types of roses, which have long been identified in conditional classification adopted among rose breeders, gardeners and florists.

The only thing that changes with the passage of time is that growing roses is no longer the prerogative of professionals - now anyone, even an absolute beginner in gardening, can start growing them. This is because new varieties of roses have been bred that grow without outside help and require very little maintenance.

Another reason why the popularity of roses has increased again is the fact that new varieties have been bred with thick double flowers, fragrant and reminiscent of the old varieties of the ancestors.

The last decade in breeding new roses has been especially intensive, trying to combine both qualities. The result is the emergence of many varieties of roses that combine both aroma and beautiful flowers and endurance to both diseases and pests that do not require daily and tedious care.

To make it easier for gardeners to deal with different kinds and varieties of roses and choose the appropriate ones, for a start, we will divide them into conditional groups or categories.

Conditional because as a result breeding work when breeding new varieties of roses, the boundaries between them are gradually erased, some species and varieties, having borrowed specific characteristics from others, become similar to each other to the point of confusion, so it is often difficult even for a professional to determine which group a particular rose belongs to ..

We offer you a classification here that is often used by amateurs, summer residents and ordinary, non-professional growers to identify roses in rose gardens, flower beds and flower beds. According to her, roses are divided into types and groups depending on how they are used in the garden, on the site and, of course, on the shape of the rose bush itself.

These will be standard, shrub and flower bed roses. Roses divided into generally accepted categories: climbing, ground cover, miniature, park and tea- hybrid roses... We mentioned most of them on the pages of the site www.Vsaduidoma.ru

The main types of garden roses

Climbing roses

Let's preliminarily divide them into 2 groups: Rambler and Climbers

Rumblera roses This climbing roses reaching a length of 6 meters. The stems are flexible and small. 2-3 centimeters in diameter. The flowers of most rambler roses are collected in inflorescences, rather large. Blossom 1 time, flowering time 27-30 days. The aroma is usually absent altogether, but there are also very faintly smelling varieties of ramblers. Requires supports or garters.

Climber roses- climbing roses, the stems, unlike ramblers, grow straight, and they are thicker than those of the latter, reaching 3 meters in length. Flowers reach a diameter of 10 centimeters, collected in small inflorescences. In central Russia, they bloom twice, flowering is long, very abundant and lush. Winter is easy, no solid shelter is required for climber varieties.

Ground cover roses

The most common roses in flower beds and elements garden design... This is primarily due to the diversity of their growth forms - ground cover roses can be both creeping and upright (erect). They bloom all season - from spring to late autumn, usually about half a meter in height, but they can be even higher. The spectrum of colors, or rather their forms and types, is very diverse: from double, semi-double to the simplest and sometimes even nondescript.

Miniature roses

These are varieties and types of roses, which usually do not exceed 30, less often 35-40 centimeters in height. Flowers similar to hybrid tea roses but smaller in diameter. These roses are primarily suitable for growing in pots and containers. Among them there are varieties that are without special care grow in flowers. Most of the miniature roses are repaired.

In the picture: 1. Climbers climbing roses, 2. Rambler climbing roses, 3. Miniature roses, 4. Flower-bed roses, 5. Ground cover roses

Park roses

(read more,)

The flowers of park roses are the simplest, very often similar to an ordinary rose hip or non-catalog species roses. They can bear fruit in the fall, a kind of berries resembling a rosehip. The main disadvantage of park roses is rare and single flowering. They got their name for the fact that they are grown mainly in parks, for the reason that they take up a very, very large amount of space, of which there are not many in our dachas.

In the picture: 6. Shrub roses, 7. Hybrid tea roses, 8. Cascading roses, 9. Park roses, 10. Standard roses

Shrub roses

The main and characteristic feature of shrub roses is a tall bush with a large diameter of diverging stems. In height, quite easily, when grown with minimal care, it can reach 2.5-2.7 meters. The most popular varieties among flower growers are representatives of this type "Modern Shrab", "Grandiflora". Most often they are used to create hedges on homemade, or, often of a mixed nature (using other plants). Also well suited for creating a flower garden exclusively from roses. Formed bush rose rose gardens are very beautiful.

The group of shrub roses includes many modern varieties of remontant roses, as well as old, so-called "nostalgic" varieties, once flowering, with double flowers.

Hybrid tea roses

This type of rose captivates the hearts of gardeners primarily with its large double flowers. Stems grow to a height of up to a meter, erect (upright). One of best views roses for cutting. All hybrid tea roses are remontant and almost all are fragrant. In landscape design and the formation of a flower garden, they are used in combination with herbaceous perennials or.

Hybrid tea roses have large, elegant flowers and upright shoots reaching a height of 1 m, so they look good in a flower garden and are also great for cutting.

Cascading roses

Roses grafted onto a stem at a height of 140 centimeters with varieties of climbing or ground cover roses. The stems of cascading roses are long, often drooping. The shape of the flowers depends on the grafting, therefore, they are actually very diverse both in color and in diameter and shape ..

Stamp roses

Like miniature roses, standard roses are well suited for growing in pots and containers, which of course does not negate their cultivation in a flower garden or rose garden, which they will undoubtedly transform. For the formation and compactness of the crown of this type of roses, hybrid tea roses, the already mentioned miniature roses or Floribunda roses, are often grafted onto them.

Flowerbed roses

As a rule, many gardeners and florists refer to flowerbed roses as polyanthus and Floribunda roses. Suitable for growing both in portable containers and pots, and in a flower garden in open ground... Flowers are collected in lush and beautiful inflorescences. Flowerbed roses have practically no scent (with the exception of a few weak-smelling varieties). But their main plus is lush and long flowering. In height, flower bed roses can reach 70-80 centimeters.

Rose seedlings: choosing the right one

So, we figured out about the types and groups of roses for a garden, a flower garden, a rose garden or even a simple flower bed, now let's move on to where it all starts - rose seedlings.

The key to beautiful, lushly blooming, a little sick and not requiring daily care of roses is, of course, the correct selection of seedlings.

First, pay attention to the shoots and stems. Their color should be green, the stems themselves are strong, resilient, so to speak, "oozing with life." The bark of the shoots must be intact, without folds, breaks and rot.

Buds are another sign of healthy rose seedlings - they should be large, well-developed and look healthy, exactly the same recommendations can be given by examining the roots of roses, the roots should be intact, without breaks, and the substrate in which the seedling or earthen lump is sold should be sure to be slightly wet.

The leaves of the seedling should be deep green on both the inside and outside. We think it would be superfluous to say that there should be no stains or damage on them - if there is, then this is no longer a seedling, but money thrown into the wind.

Rose seedlings during the planting season (early autumn or spring) are most often sold with open roots, in pre-planting containers (with a closed root system)

Roses are sold with an open root system, with a closed one, and also directly in containers.

Planting such rose seedlings must be done immediately after purchase, this is important.

Most experienced gardeners make planting roses in the period from the beginning of September to the middle of October. If you live in a cold, northern region, then it is better to plant in the spring, in cold winter fragile seedlings with an undeveloped root system will simply freeze.

In principle, roses can be planted in summer, in any of the months. Moreover, they can even be planted in bloom. True, it will come out for the money a little more expensive, but they will take root well.

As you can see in the right photo, the roots of rose seedlings are in the ground, occasionally moss is used. They can protect the root system of the seedling for several days, usually such seedlings are packed neatly and there is practically no damage to the root system.

What to look for when choosing and buying rose seedlings

On the label. On the quality seedlings roses are always tagged with brief information about the breeder, about the type (group) of roses, and of course with information about the variety.
Pay attention also to the so-called “ADR” sign (more about it below): such a sign is issued to varieties of roses that are super-resistant to diseases and have high decorative characteristics.
The most expensive seedlings, the highest category, must have at least three shoots, of which 2 grow from grafting. The cheaper rose seedlings already have 2 shoots, which both grow from the grafting site.

The best place to plant roses

Whichever variety you choose for planting, remember that regardless of the variety, all roses love soft, loose, fertile land, with good performance permeability to water. The best level of soil acidity is the so-called pH - 6.5.

Attention: When replacing landings do not plant roses in the same place where old roses have been growing for more than 8-10 years!

Old roses have already "selected" from the soil all the micro-elements, minerals, etc. they need, and it is not always possible to compensate for this even through correct and generous fertilization. But they saturated the earth with spores of diseases and pests.

Despite the well-known photophilousness of roses, it is impossible for them to be in direct sunlight, especially if you live in a warm region in the South, etc. In this position, they bloom quickly, and the flowers look faded, not spectacular - that is, the very meaning of planting roses, beauty, is lost.

Based on the above, for planting roses, choose a place that is slightly shaded, especially at noon, for example, next to a low tree that you prune annually, etc.

So in my area to the left of the cypress growing next to the cypress, the rose bush is always, despite the constant care, stunted and faded, on the right it (cypress), as by the clock, covers itself at noon at noon, which, despite the same planting and variety, is always more powerful and prettier, so it has been tested in practice.

Preparing for planting rose seedlings

Just before planting roses, you should first prepare the seedlings. So the roots that are too long should be cut a little with a sharp (!) Pruner, and all dry ones should be removed completely (as a rule, dry roots in roses are recognized even by touch).

In this case, in no case touch the filamentous roots.

The stems of the seedling must also be pruned - in the spring, leave two to four buds, in the fall, when planting, the seedlings are shortened to 33-35 centimeters.

Tip: A few hours before planting (about 2), lower the seedlings in a bucket of water and leave them there for the specified time, or even better do it in the evening and plant in the morning, that is, at night.

Planting roses - step by step

If your soil is predominantly clayey in your country house, plot or flower garden, then add river or other sand to the hole for the seedling. If, in turn, you have sandy soil, then add compost to the rose hole.

The hole for planting a rose should be 10 centimeters larger than (wider and deeper) than the earthen ball and the roots that are in it. Loosen the bottom of the planting hole.
The depth to which the rose seedling is planted is determined by the grafting site, which should be buried 4-5 centimeters into the soil. Mix the soil selected from the planting hole with compost (approximately 1 to 3), and add a handful of real wood ash(not chemistry, not ash from cardboard boxes and other things - only woody!).
Hold the rose seedling evenly at the desired depth and gradually cover the hole with earth.
Be sure to compact the soil well around the planting.
For watering the seedling: make an earthen border around the planting to prevent water spreading. Be sure to spud the seedling by 15 centimeters, at least - this must be done in spring and autumn. In spring, hilling is useful from drying out, in autumn it helps from frost. At the onset of the autumn period, excess land can be removed.

Photo 3: Planting roses correctly for beginners

Mount and supports

Supports and fastenings are needed, first of all, for standard roses - they need to be tied to the supports with a soft cloth or the same twine, making a kind of "eight" out of it. Inspect the plant periodically and loosen the knots to prevent the twine from growing into the tissue of the rose shoot.

Pruning roses

The purpose of any pruning of roses is to replace. That is, it is produced in order to replace old stems and shoots with young ones, which will bloom luxuriantly and profusely. Pruning old, dying shoots is done before the start of healthy, green wood.

Weakened stems are also cut off by significantly shortening them, powerful shoots either do not touch at all or cut slightly.

Root shoots, the scourge of grafted roses, are completely removed during pruning.

The general rule of pruning is that the stronger it is, the more strength the rose will need to form new stems.

Pruning of standard (including cascading) roses is determined by their variety and type of scion - so ground cover is their general rule are shortened by half their height every 2 years.

Spring pruning of roses

Spring pruning begins mainly in late March, in colder regions - early April.

But of course, these terms can shift, depending on the climate, the weather in any direction, therefore, in addition to the exact timing, use this sign: you need to start pruning roses when the buds swell at the tops of the most powerful shoots, as a rule, at the same time, a plant blooms in the flower garden forsythia.

Photo 4: Pruning roses

How to cut the stems correctly

Believe it is important.

The shoots of roses are cut over the bud, from which the shoot will subsequently appear. Such a bud should be directed outward, outward - this is done to avoid thickening the bush and giving it a beautiful shape.

In order not to damage the bud with the pruner, cut the shoot 5-7 millimeters above. Make the cut oblique and it should be directed downward from the kidney, this is done in order to moisture from the fog and rainwater flowed down the place of the cut, did not stagnate on it, which can cause its penetration into the core and the shoot will rot.

Pruning roses for lush and abundant flowering.

To achieve a beautiful and lush bloom roses, several rules must be followed.

1. Climbing roses remontant varieties buds grow both on young shoots and on one-year-old and more shoots, therefore they only prune side shoots leaving 4-5 buds. In one-time flowering roses, the flowers are located on the growths of the last year, so the new stems are not cut off, the bush is slightly thinned out, in extreme cases, you can remove 2 old skeletal branches.

2. Miniature Roses, Floribunda and Hybrid Tea Roses form flowers on young stems so they need to be cut pretty tightly. Hybrid tea and Floribunda are pruned a little in the fall, and such pruning is more sanitary in nature: diseased and weak shoots are removed, but in the spring they are pruned more thoroughly - leaving an shoot with three or four buds. Trimming miniature roses is done in the spring, they are shortened by 12-15 centimeters.

3. In remontant shrub roses, flowers are located on young stems, so the bush is thinned out, while shortening the stems from the outside of the bush to 5 buds.

If skeletal branches need to be shortened, then do it by a third or even two-thirds of the length.

Once blooming roses shrubs bloom magnificently on the growth of last year, so they must be pruned immediately after flowering.

Covering roses for the winter

Sheltering roses for the winter is a very important procedure. Otherwise, you can lose all the work that you have invested in your favorites in the summer. Therefore, when autumn arrives, stock up on burlap, spruce branches or any other covering material.

Roses need to be covered in November-early December (this is the deadline).

Shelter methods also depend on the variety and species. So rose hips can not be covered at all.

For shelter, you cannot use a film - the plants under it can easily resist, by the way, the sun can damage roses in winter as well - an unjustified early sap flow into a thaw can begin, and upon the onset of new frosts they freeze, as a rule, then it is already irrevocable - it is difficult to save such roses, because the tissue of the plant suffers, black rings appear that are clearly visible in the spring on the cut. Therefore, the non-woven fabric for the shelter will be just right.

As a rule, the grafting site suffers the most from frost, in fact, that is why we are higher and recommended you to deepen it when planting a seedling at a depth of 5 centimeters.

Roses in the fall need to be additionally spud with dry soil, preferably with compost, and covered with spruce branches (if possible). Then cover shrubby, miniature roses, Floribunda and hybrid tea with non-woven material.

One-year-old standard roses hibernate horizontally, for which, gently bend the shoots to the ground and secure with wire pins. Be sure to cover the grafting site with earth or compost, and do the same with the crown of the bush.

Old and adult standard roses can also successfully overwinter vertically, you can simply pull a bag onto the bush and fill it with dry foliage from below, and tie the bottom, and the garter must be below the grafting site. Spud and insulate the shoots as in previous cases.

Shrub roses, especially those that have grown strongly over the summer, are difficult to cover. In this case, a cylindrical wire cage of a larger diameter than a rose bush without a bottom and a cover will come to your aid - it is placed on a bush and stuffed neatly with foliage, hay or straw.

Shelter of climbing roses consists in removing them from the hedge or trellis, laying them on spruce branches, and warming for example with burlap, followed by again covering with spruce branches. You can also put a film on top of such a "pie".

Only healthy roses with good immunity to diseases can optimally endure wintering and, of course, grow and delight us with their beauty.

Therefore, even at the stage of buying a flower, ask the seller about the sustainability of this variety, as a rule, many of them are fanatics and will explain the essence of the issue to you in detail, otherwise use the advice above on choosing rose seedlings.

To minimize the stress of a rose from moving to a new "place of residence", take the choice of a place for planting as seriously as possible, take into account not only the landscape design and its reception, but try to make sure that your desires and possibilities coincide with the "desires and possibilities" roses.

If the variety is unstable to diseases, for example, you took the seedling you liked from friends who do not know either its origin or the name of the variety, do regular spraying with drugs for prophylaxis.

If prevention did not help and the rose got sick, then immediately remove the entire affected part of the plant - this will save not only it, but also other nearby bushes. By the way, in fairness, it must be said that most often diseases are spread with cuttings taken from friends and not from the market or stores, so in such cases, do not be lazy to process the seedling right away.

If removing diseased parts does not help, resort to chemical or folk remedies to spray the affected rose (we will describe them in detail a little later, in the next article).

It is necessary to inspect roses in the garden as often as possible, at least 1-2 times a week - because the sooner you notice the signs of the disease, the easier it is to defeat it, and the rose will suffer less from removing the affected stems. Be sure to burn all parts of the plant that you removed from the diseased plant - do not put them in compost, because next year you will spread the infection with it throughout the site. Before wintering and sheltering roses, remove dried leaves that have not fallen, as well as dried flowers and berries.

Before sheltering roses for the winter, be sure to collect the cut parts of the plants and remove the dried, but not fallen leaves, also cut off the withered flowers and fruits.

Usage folk remedies and homemade preparations for spraying roses.

In order to prevent fungal diseases from occurring in roses, spray them with a decoction of horsetail herb every 2 weeks.

Preparation of horsetail solution

To prepare the broth, take 150 grams of dry herb or one kilogram of raw herb, chop the herb and fill it with one liter of water, then boil and cook for half an hour over low heat. The broth for spraying is diluted 1 to 10 before use.

Solution for spraying roses from aphids

Take 30 grams of dry or 400-450 grams of green wormwood (bitter) and pour ten liters of boiling water, then leave for at least 10 minutes. Then strain and dilute 1 to 3. Spray the bush thoroughly and on both sides of the leaf - if you spray only on top and lightly, the aphids will simply crawl under the bottom of the leaves, and at the first opportunity or after rain will crawl back.

The main pests of roses

1. "Rose aphid".

Lives on the tips of the stems, the underside of the leaf, buds. It feeds on juice.

How to fight: Cutting shoots inhabited by aphids, spraying with a solution of wormwood (the recipe for the solution is given above), homemade nettle mash helps in the fight against rose aphids. If it is not possible to prepare folk solutions, then process it with any chemical. remedy for leaf-gnawing or sap-sucking pests.

2. "Rose cicadas"

Small insects. A favorite place of residence is the lower part of the rose leaf. A characteristic feature is that small white spots appear on the outer part of the leaves. The period of appearance is June, or the first half of July, as well as August-September.

Control measures: processing the rose with simple liquid laundry soap.

3. Rose pest - spider mite.

Also inhabits the underside of leaves. At the same time, the leaves are covered with yellow specks, then rapidly turn gray, white. If intensive reproduction occurs spider mite then on back side sheet with the naked eye, thin cobwebs are visible.

How to deal: since the tick loves sunny and dry places, then avoid them when planting a rose, if this cannot be done due to some circumstances, then remove the leaves affected by the tick, sometimes the shoots if the settlement process has gone too far and then spray with a decoction of horsetail ( solution recipe above) or tobacco. Infusions of yarrow and garlic are also effective against spider mites.

4. "Rose leaf".

Its peculiarity as a pest of roses is that it lays its eggs on the edge of the rose leaves, which is why they begin to curl up in a tube, and in early to mid-June the larva ripens in them.

Control measures: Removal of leaves affected by the pest, spraying with any insecticide.

5. "Sawfly or rosy rotten"

The pest lays eggs directly on the pink shoot, the larvae emerging from the eggs bore holes in the shoots and penetrate into their middle, which first causes a slowdown in growth and then the death of the stem. The signs of its presence are holes in the shoots, which appear already in May.

Ways and measures to combat the sawfly: only remove the affected shoots. As a prevention, regular spraying of the rose with a solution of bitter wormwood can play a good role (recipe above).

Rose pests - photo

Diseases of roses and measures to combat them

1. Black spot of roses ().

The main sign of black spotting is black or purple spots with a characteristic border on outside rose leaf. After the appearance of spots, the leaves turn yellow very quickly, dry and fall off. The provoking effect of the appearance of black spot on roses may be increased air humidity.

Measures to combat black spot: if prolonged rainy weather is established, then since June, every two weeks, sometimes more often, spray the roses with a solution of nettle, horsetail, and one percent Bordeaux liquid.

2. Roses and powdery mildew.

Another scourge garden roses... The provoking factor is the same as for black spot - damp and warm weather, established for a long time. The symptom of the disease is clear from the name - a white, easily washable plaque on the leaves.

How to deal: spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid, manure infusion, regularly (every 10 days). To prevent powdery mildew from developing on roses, plant them in a ventilated place not limited by large plants or walls. Frequent thinning of the bush can also be effective.

3. Rose rose rust:

Outwardly similar to black spot, but the spots are brown, brown or yellow and on inside leaves appear black pustules, which contain spores.

Control measures: spraying with copper-soap solution, Bordeaux liquid (1%). It is necessary to start spraying from the end of April: first, according to the scheme, three times in two days, then every 10-14 days, until the fungus disappears.

4. Powdery mildew(false).

A characteristic feature is red-brown spots on the outside of the leaves, on the back of the leaf, gray or white bloom, indelible.

How to deal: treat the bushes with a solution of horsetail (the recipe for preparing the solution is given above), treatments with infusion of nettle, common sow thistle, ash solution or infusion of mullein are also effective. As an additional remedy, increase the potash root dressing and avoid getting water droplets on the leaves when watering.

5. Gray rot roses:

The provoking factor is prolonged rainy weather. Sign of gray mold: gray mold at the ends of the stems and buds. After the disease, they dry out and fall off.

Measures to combat gray mold: increase fertilization with manganese-containing fertilizers. Prevention: treatment of roses with ordinary Bordeaux liquid (1%)

Photo of rose diseases

50 most beautiful roses from new varieties

I myself am often opposed to talking about flowers, and even more so about roses in the degree of superiority of one variety over another - something like "10 best varieties of roses" or "100 most beautiful roses", but in this case it is justified - after all it comes not only about beauty, but also about endurance and resistance to disease.

It's not a secret for anyone that most of the new varieties of roses are bred not only for their "beauty" - breeders are breeding new varieties that are resistant to diseases, which, unfortunately, our favorites suffer more and more.

How to determine how hardy a particular variety of roses is?

The so-called ADR mark (“Allgemeine Deutsche Rosenneuheitenprufung”) will help you with this - in Russian it is translated as “All-German certification of new varieties of roses”.

This list includes only those roses that have increased cold resistance, abundance and duration of flowering, resistance to pests and diseases.

At the end of 2011, this list contained 180 varieties of roses, and in the same year it was updated by only 5 points - the Germans are demanding and scrupulous people.

How do roses get into this catalog-list and what does the ADR sign mean?

The ADR mark is assigned to varieties of roses with high degree endurance and best flowering performance.

Roses claiming this ADR mark? planted for three years in 11 different gardens throughout Germany. In order to test them for endurance in different climatic and weather conditions, taking into account the difference in soil and other factors.

Caring for roses is the most common, except for one thing - growers are prohibited from treating them from diseases and pests of roses. As a result, what is called "at the exit", roses are obtained that do not require treatment with chemicals, moreover, their selection, as we see, occurs in the most natural way.

Gardeners water, feed and prune "experimental" in the same way as in private gardens, but it is strictly forbidden to use any means of protecting plants from diseases and pests. Among other things, checking roses like this has a positive effect on the environment, because the more growers grow hardy varieties, the less chemicals will be needed.

After three years, the results of planting and growing roses applying for the ADR sign, an expert commission is created from specialists in the selection of roses, they are evaluated according to a 100 point system, in order to enter the group of winners, a rose needs to score 75 points and above.

This entire process was founded by the renowned rose breeder Wilhelm Cordes.

Which rose varieties are ADR tested?

The most diverse. Roses of all new varieties (except for rose hips, the testing of which was discontinued last year, 2011) are sent for the test from all over the planet, and one of the main conditions for participation in this competition of roses is that the variety must be new and not be sold on the market for more than 5 years.

Why do roses get grades?

The points are accumulated by varieties in a complex - here and resistance to diseases, growth rate, duration and splendor as characteristics of flowering, general form roses, aroma. But all the same, the most important criterion for assessing is resistance to disease and pest.

A rose may lose the ADR mark if, as a result of subsequent rechecking, it is established that it has lost any of its features.

The most beautiful roses from the ADR catalog: photo

The best varieties of roses - PHOTOS

50 varieties of the best and most beautiful roses

Description of varieties of roses in the photo

Name (ROSE VARIETY)	Group	Flowers	Scent	Bush
	Floribunda	apricot, semi-double, 6 cm
2.Aspirin-Rose	Floribunda	from white to pink, terry, 6 cm		with arched drooping stems, 70 cm high
3.Bengali	Floribunda	copper-yellow, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity
4.Black Forest Rose	Floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	sprawling, densely leafy, 70 cm high
5. Bluhwunder 08	ground cover rose	bright pink, simple, 6 cm	missing	sprawling, densely leafy, 80 cm high
6. Comedy		yellow with red, terry, 8 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 150 cm high
7. Crescendo	Floribunda	pink, terry, 10 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 85 cm high
8. Debut	Floribunda	light yellow, terry, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 65 cm high
9.Elbflorenz	hybrid tea roses	bright pink, double, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
10. Gebruder Grimm	Floribunda	orange with pink, thick double, 7 cm		straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
11.Golden Gate		yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
12.Goldspatz		light yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	missing	with drooping stems, height 150 cm
13.Grande Amore	hybrid tea roses	bright red, terry, 10 cm		straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
14. Heidetraum	ground cover rose	hot pink, terry, 4 cm	missing	low, spreading, 75 cm high
15.Hella	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	white, semi-double, 9 cm		with shoots 250 cm long
16.Flashlight		pink, double, 10 cm		straight, densely leafy, 120 cm high
17. Hermann-Hesse-Rose	Floribunda	cream, thick double, 10 cm	medium intensity
18. Eliza	hybrid tea roses	silver-pink, terry, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
19. Intarsia	Floribunda	yellow-pink, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
20. Isarperle	Floribunda	creamy white, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 75 cm high
21. Jasmina	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	purple-pink, dense double, 6 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
22. Kir Royal	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	pink, terry, 6 cm		with powerful upright stems 250-300 cm long
23. Kosmos	Floribunda	cream, thick double, 8 cm	medium strength	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
24. La Perla	hybrid tea roses	cream, thick double, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
25. Innocencia	Floribunda	pure white, semi-double, 5 cm		compact, branched, 50 cm high
26. Schone Koblenzerin	Floribunda	red with cream, thick double, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 60 cm high
27. Sedana	ground cover rose	creamy orange or apricot, semi-double, 5 cm	missing	low, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
28. La Rose de Molinard		bright pink, dense double, 8 cm
29. Laguna	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	bright pink, double, 10 cm		stems 250 cm long
30. Larissa		pink, terry, 5 cm	missing	dense, branched, 80 cm high
31. Medley Pink		pink, semi-double, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 40 cm high
32. Mirato	ground cover rose	bright pink, terry, 6-7 cm		sprawling, branched, 50-70 cm high
33. Pastella	Floribunda	cream with pink, thick double, 6-8 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 60-80 cm high
34. Pink Paradise	hybrid tea roses	bright pink with yellow, terry, 9 cm		compact, densely leafy, 90 cm high
35. Pink Swany		pink, double, 6-7 cm	missing	sprawling with flowing shoots 50-60 cm high
36. Planten un Blomen	Floribunda	red-white, loose, terry, 5 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
37. Pomponella	Floribunda	pink, double, 4 cm		straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
38. Red Leonardo da Vinci	Floribunda	dark red, thick double, 7 cm
39. Resonanz	Floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
40. Rouge Meilove	Floribunda	dark red, thick double, 5 cm		sprawling, branched, 40-60 cm high
41. Schloss Ippenburg	hybrid tea roses	salmon pink, double, 8-10 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
42. Schneeflocke	ground cover rose	white, semi-double, 6 cm		strictly straight, densely leafy, 40-50 cm high
43. Shining Light		yellow, terry, 10 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high
44. Sinea	Floribunda	burgundy, loose, terry, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 70-90 cm high
45. Solero	Floribunda	light yellow, thick double, 6 cm		sprawling, branched, 70 cm high
46. Sorrento	ground cover rose	red, loose, terry, 5 cm	missing	low, densely leafy, 70-80 cm high
47. Souvenir de Baden-Baden	hybrid tea roses	creamy pink, thick double, 10 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
48. Stadt Rom	ground cover rose	salmon pink, simple, 6-7 cm		compact, well-branched, 50-60 cm high
49. Westzeit	Floribunda	orange, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
50. Yellow Meilove		light yellow, thick terry, 5 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high

Breeders and breeders of these roses: Kordes' Sonne, Noack, Meilland, Delbard

Deciphering the sivols in the description of the varieties of roses in the photo

1. Climbing roses: for planting near a support or walls that need to be decorated.
2. Bed roses: for planting in low and mixed flower beds.
3. Shrub roses: for hedges and planting with other shrubs.: You have repeatedly requested such requests ...: Table of drugs to combat ...

Where to plant a rose so that it blooms profusely?

What is the best place in the garden for planting roses?

Roses are beautiful flowers, but they require close attention, special care conditions, and you cannot plant them in the place of the site where you want. To obtain beautiful bush roses in your area, the plant must be planted exactly where it will be comfortable, and create all the conditions for development.

The best place to grow roses

You should not expect that you will admire the most beautiful buds if you do not take into account all the specific features of their cultivation.

1. Light. Firstly, roses love when there is a lot of light. The number of buds, resistance to various diseases and growth are directly dependent on the amount of light received. A lot of light - a lot of roses. But there are other varieties that grow well in the shade, for example, climbing roses. Therefore, in any case, each variety must be approached individually - this will definitely allow you to get excellent flowers on your site.

2. Heat. Secondly, these flowers are very thermophilic. The nutrients that help the plant thrive will practically melt away if there is a lack of heat. If in your area there are often cold northerly or northeasterly winds, it is recommended to always protect them during such a period.

3. Correct soil. Thirdly, the soil in which the rose grows should not be overly moist. Lack of oxygen, which is formed in moist soil, can lead to the extinction of an entire bush. If high humidity in cold period years, then such soil cools much faster, which leads to the freezing of the plant.

Rose bushes are best planted in neutral soil. Ideally, the acidity of the soil should be in the region of 6-7. The process of assimilation of nutrients in such a soil occurs naturally, and the plant develops well. If the acidity is higher or lower than the recommended level, then large quantity nutrients pass into a form that is practically inaccessible for assimilation by the rose bush.

Never plant rose bushes under trees. In such places, they feel very bad, since the trees will take away all the sun's rays, water, and with it nutrients from the roses. Then the shoots of the rose will lengthen, become brittle and thin, they can even form false buds, and you will never see flowers. For roses in such a place, the risk of fungal diseases always increases.

In other words, hoping to see gorgeous rosebuds on your site, remember - she. Therefore, it requires careful selection of a growing site, with access to sunlight, should not grow near trees and should always be protected from cold and northerly winds.

Planting a grafted rose

The grafted place in any plant is the weakest point, this also applies to the rose. It is recommended that this place be dug and be at least 5 centimeters underground. And if the soil is sandy, then you can dig in the plant deeper. But, if the soil is predominantly clayey, then on the contrary, the level of planting depth should be less.

A properly planted grafted plant will give good results. If the grafting site remains above the surface of the soil, then new shoots will grow where there is more sunlight, which means that buds will appear on the rootstock. Wildly formed shoots will definitely interfere with the growth of the cultivated part of the plant. The rose will be deprived of a sufficient amount of moisture and nutrition, which means that development will be weak.

At the same time, the site of inoculation that is very deep in the ground will also not give positive results. Usually, such roses take root very badly, the root collar begins to rot, eventually rot, which inevitably leads to the death of the plant.

All of these recommendations are not suitable for climbing roses. The grafting site of this plant must be deepened below 10 centimeters from the ground level. Such a planting will make it possible to develop the cultural part of the rose, and the shoots will not come from the buried roots of the rose hips.

Roses adorn the garden from May to October. That is why this flower is so loved by most gardeners. In addition, it is not only beautiful to look at, but also has a wonderful aroma. It is not at all difficult to grow this beauty, as well as take care of her. You just need to know some points.

This article will help you figure out when it is better to plant roses: in spring or autumn. What are the differences between such a planting and what an inexperienced gardener needs to know in order to properly equip his rose garden.

Choosing a place for roses and preparing seedlings

Before we start figuring out when is the best time to plant roses, in spring or fall, let's figure out how to prepare for this planting. To begin with, we will select a site and prepare the seedlings.

Roses do not tolerate well if the air stagnates around them or there are drafts. A high position can also be detrimental to them. groundwater... Therefore, you should not plant roses in the lowlands. Choose an elevated location where your flowers can be slightly shaded from the midday sun. Planting bushes should not be done densely. This contributes to the development of various diseases.

Before planting, seedlings must be examined with special care. Any branches that are too weak or somehow damaged, as well as those parts of the root system that are not entirely healthy, are subject to removal. All roots are shortened by thirty centimeters. If they have already been shortened, then you just need to update the slices.

Before planting, the roots are immersed in water with the addition of regulators of root formation, as well as substances that stimulate growth. The seedlings should be kept in such a solution for about two hours.

Features of planting in spring

To decide for yourself what time of year it is better to plant roses, consider both options. Let's talk about spring planting first. On sale seedlings can be found at the very beginning of March. If the roses have already been bought, but it is still too early to plant them, do not despair. You can store them in the basement or refrigerator for a whole month, wrapped in a special cloth. If, after this period, the weather is still unsuitable, then you can bury the roses in the ground completely and leave until it is warm. The rose pit should be prepared fourteen days before planting. If the soil does not settle properly before planting, the seedling will simply go under the ground. The hole should be about sixty centimeters deep - for the future volume of the roots.

It is necessary to fill the finished hole, based on the properties of the soil in your garden. If the soil is heavy, dilute the soil with sand with the addition of organic matter... And if the ground has a sandy structure, then it is worth adding a little more clay.

If the humidity in your area is high enough, then the rose is planted in a dry hole, covered with soil and then watered from above. Another method of planting - wet - is suitable for arid areas. Water mixed with the soil is poured into the pit, and the seedling is lowered. Only then the roots are covered with soil. If after watering the ground is compacted and a hole is formed, it must be immediately filled up, otherwise root system can rot.

When planting is complete, hilling should be done with compost or chernozem. If the seedling is small, then it is better to completely fill it up for two weeks. This way shoots and buds can be protected. After two weeks, it must be dug out, otherwise roots will appear on the shoots and the rose will grow much worse. The tops of the cut need to be slightly renewed to stimulate the growth of the plant.

Can roses be planted in autumn?

In the previous section, we covered all the intricacies of spring planting. Figured out how to prepare the pit and seedlings. But many gardeners are wondering if it is possible to plant roses in the fall. The answer to this question is quite affirmative. The plant tolerates well autumn planting... It grows and develops well in the future. But late boarding has its own characteristics. And the question immediately arises about when is the best time to plant roses in the fall. It is best to complete all planting work before the end of September.

How to choose a seedling for autumn planting?

Buying seedlings in autumn time, it is important to watch out for some details. The roots must be healthy and hydrated. To check, living plant or not, use a pruner to cut the root. If the cut turns out to be white, then the seedling is quite viable and you can safely buy and plant it. If the color of the root cut is brown, then such a root must be cut off until a white color appears.

Shoots must be intact. They should not be damaged in any way. If the seedling has leaves, then you need to carefully examine them to make sure there are no pests on them.

Features of late landing

If the question of when it is better to plant roses, in spring or autumn, is more irrelevant for you and you have chosen the autumn period for planting seedlings in your area, then you need to pay attention to some features.

We prepare the pit in the same way as described earlier. When planting a rose, deepen the root collar into the soil by two centimeters. This way you will more reliably protect your plant from winter frosts. Water should be done with extreme care. Pour half a bucket at once and wait for all the moisture to be absorbed. Now you need to water again. Thus, all voids in the soil will be filled, and the roots will take the position that they need. Watering continues regularly until cold weather sets in.

When to plant climbing roses?

Speaking about when it is better to plant, it should be noted that both spring and autumn are suitable, but in spring the fit is more secure. Especially it concerns middle lane Russia.

Truth, spring planting leads to the fact that flowers in development are delayed by fifteen days. Yes, and this plant will require more care. But gardeners have found the most convenient way... They purchase seedlings growing in containers and simply place them on their plot in late spring.

When is the best time to plant ground cover roses?

TO ground cover roses include long-flowering varieties that not only survive the winter well, but also grow quite quickly and strongly to the sides.

So, what time is it better to plant this type of roses. If you live in regions with warm winters, then it is best to plant these roses in the fall.

For areas where winters are cold and frosty, choose a spring planting.

If you are planting in the fall, then the shoots only need to be shortened a little. In the spring, they are cut so that only two or three buds remain.

So, having considered the question of when it is better to plant roses, in spring or autumn, we can conclude that, in principle, both options are quite viable.

This is a matter of your preferences. Many experts are inclined to believe that more correct fit for roses - late, but many amateur gardeners say that the bushes planted in the spring grow, in no way inferior to last year.

The dacha looks wonderful, immersed in bright fragrant flowers. Growing a bush rose is best suited for decorating a personal plot. This is the best option for any garden, because the plant has an exquisite look and amazes with a variety of bud colors. To plant rose bushes in a flower bed is within the power of an inexperienced florist. They do not require specific care and grow rapidly.

The best varieties

Shrub roses love warmth and sunlight, so growing should be done in an area that is well lit during the day. It shouldn't be blown strong wind... Bushes feel good near blank walls and fences, the main thing is that the sun always falls on them.

If you plant a rose bush in partial shade, its shoots will begin to stretch upward, and you can not wait at all for flowering.

Try to plant the flower away from groundwater and make sure that no water accumulates under the bushes. From this, the roses begin to wither and grow poorly.

These tips will make it easier to grow any variety of roses. We list the most popular varieties among gardeners.

"Burghausen". It grows up to two meters, blooms profusely and for a long time. The bush is resistant to frost, pests and has a delicate aroma.
Moden Centenial. This hardy variety reaches a height of about a meter, and is covered all summer pink flowers... Can be used for weaving around gazebos and fences.
Abraham Derby. This flower blooms in large, dense buds and has few thorns on the branches. It grows no higher than 2 m and looks great in the country.
Red Cascade. The American bright red mini variety weaves beautifully and grows up to 200 cm near the support. The rose blooms profusely. In brushes, 5-25 small buds bloom.
"Iceberg". The multi-flowered white shrub rose blooms continuously all summer and reaches 1.5 m. Suitable for decorating gazebos, lawns and front gardens.
"Hee-ho". Another weaving mini variety, which is appreciated by summer residents for its frost resistance and unpretentiousness. In the summertime, it is strewn with red and lilac flowers.

In order for bush roses to grow quickly, they need to be properly planted and provided with easy regular maintenance.

How to plant roses

Dig up the site in advance.
Mix the loosened soil with fertilizers.
Add 1 sq. m of soil in a bucket of manure, peat, 400 g of wood ash, bone meal and 30 g of superphosphate.
Such soil care will help the rose grow quickly.

Dig wide holes a few weeks after preparing the soil. The distance between rose bushes depends on their variety and varies from 1 m to 2 m. The depth is determined by the size of the rose root system. The depression should be 10 cm higher than it. Pour a bucket of water there, in which dissolve the Heteroauxin tablet.

Before planting the flowers, shorten their roots with a sharp knife, cut the branches to a height of 15 cm and place the plant in water for several hours.
Then take out the seedling, place it in the prepared hole and, gently holding it, begin to gradually cover it with earth.
Be sure to keep the vaccination site 3-4 cm below ground level.
Spud the plant and make a circular roller of the ground at a distance of 25 cm from the bush. When watering, it will not let the water flow.

Do not forget that roses planted in autumn must be completely covered with earth and not opened until spring.

If desired, the flower can be planted in early May, when the soil warms up enough. Prepare the seedlings and pits as described above and plant the plant. As soon as buds appear on it, remove the soil with which the shrub was earthed up, and pour a thick layer of peat on this place. Such care will make the earth fluffy and relieve it from drying out.

Care rules

In the first summer after planting, young plants are formed. The main care for a bush rose during this period is the timely pinching of the tips of the shoots. This stimulates growth, the plant becomes thicker and more branched. Be sure to remove the buds that have set. In the first year, the bush rose should take root and gain strength. Blooming will prevent this.

Caring for roses includes regular watering. Start early in the morning or in the evening when the heat subsides.
Irrigate as the soil under the bushes dries up.
It is enough to moisten adult plants once a week, spending 10 liters of water per bush.
Younger roses require more moisture. They need to be watered abundantly every 2 days so that the shoots and leaves develop faster.

It is useful to spray braided mini varieties from a hose, spraying water. This removes dust from the leaves, prevents pests and makes growing easier. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil and systematically get rid of weeds. Fluff the soil carefully so as not to damage the root system.

In August, it is advisable to reduce watering so that the liquid does not stagnate in the soil. This can lead to rotting of the roots and the spread of fungal diseases on the bushes.

Top dressing

In the first year after planting, feeding is not required, but after that it must be done regularly. In the middle of spring, when the buds begin to bloom, the roses are fertilized with nitrogen fertilization. You can use ammophoska or ammonium nitrate. Many summer residents buy "Kemira wagon" instead of these fertilizers and use them according to the instructions. In this product, the substances for the growth of roses are carefully balanced. After 2 weeks, it is advisable to repeat the nitrogen fertilization.

After tying buds, bush roses are in great need of nutrients... Therefore, plant care in June is impossible without organic and. Mullein solutions stimulate flowering well, chicken droppings or potassium sulfate. In the middle of summer, it is useful to apply complex mineral fertilizers to the soil.

In the fall, completely eliminate nitrogen fertilization because they enhance green mass growth. Use. For example, dilute 10 g of potassium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water and pour a liter of liquid under each bush.

Before the onset of frost, caring for a rose requires sprinkling the soil under the plant with rotted manure. If this is done, then spring feeding can be started a few weeks later.

Pruning roses

According to many gardeners, pruning is the most difficult and time consuming process that a rose requires. It is necessary for the growth and flowering of the shrub, so it must be included in the care.

The first "haircut" of roses is done in the spring. Cut off weak, dead branches and those that interfere with the formation of the bush.
Young shoots often begin to hatch at the base of the plant. They must be ruthlessly removed so that they do not take away the strength of the flower.
After the buds have faded, the roses need to be trimmed well. Cut off long branches, leaving 2-3 buds on them. Do not be afraid to cut the bush too much, it will quickly release new shoots.

For bush roses, especially for weaving mini varieties, air circulation in the green mass is important. It prevents disease and improves bud development, so remove weak branches that are incapable of flowering.

Reproduction methods

The easiest way to buy a favorite rose variety is in a store, but many summer residents prefer self-cultivation. A seedling can be obtained by cuttings or layering.

To prune a stalk, at the beginning of flowering, select a sturdy, young, brown branch and prune it at a 45-degree angle just below the bud. The length of the cutting should be about 8 cm. Remove the thorns and leaves from below, leaving 3 leaves on top.

The cuttings must be planted in the shade by digging holes 15 cm deep.
Connect the soil for planting with half of the sand and sprinkle the plants.
Moisten the soil and build a kind of greenhouse by stretching the film over the roses.
To circulate air, lift it up regularly or make small holes in the plastic.
Provide the same care as for other roses, and soon the cuttings will grow.
In late autumn, wrap the seedlings with sawdust, and put oilcloth on top.
The next spring, the plant continues to be grown under a film, and only in the 3rd year it can be transplanted to a new place.

It is much easier to root a bush rose by layering. In early spring, make a small incision on the lower healthy shoot. Tilt it and dig in a shallow groove next to the mother plant so that the top of the cut is on the surface. Secure with a metal clip and water regularly. Over the summer, the cuttings will take root and release shoots, but it can only be transplanted next spring.

After autumn pruning treat rose bushes with Bordeaux liquid to destroy pests and pathogens. As soon as the first frost occurs, sprinkle the plants with dry foliage or straw.

In order for bush roses to show themselves in all their splendor, most of them need support. It may be low frame structure, stretched mesh or arch. Some varieties can be used to create hedges. In a few years the roses will grow and completely change appearance suburban area.