Recommendations for work on replacing the light switch. How to connect a two-gang switch to two

It's time to renovate the entire apartment, including replacing outdated models with more modern switches Sveta. At the same time, the replacement of the switch can be caused by several other reasons. An old device may fail, become obsolete. Or will it be necessary to replace the external wiring with a hidden laying of wires during overhaul apartment or private house.

Types of switches

Before you start changing the electrical fittings with your own hands, you need to select suitable new switch models. The electrical engineering market is filled with a huge range of different switches that differ in the principle of operation and appearance.

Important! Household electrical appliances are divided into two types according to the type of installation. Some light switches are designed for open wiring, while others are built into walls with hidden wiring.

outdoor

Outdoor switches are simple in design. There are models with both one and two buttons. Switches open wiring installed in technical rooms and rooms with wooden walls. Installing outdoor devices is quite simple. The platform with the key is fixed to the wall with screws or dowels. Terminal clamps fix the wires. Then put on the casing of the device and screw it to the platform.

Embedded

Models for hidden wiring are produced in a large assortment various designs and design. According to the principle of operation of devices, the following types of switches are distinguished:

• rotary;
• keyboards;
• push-button;
• motion sensors;
• sensory;
• wireless;
• dimmers.

Swivel

Old appliances have remained in buildings since ancient times. A simple rotary-lever device (the shift lever is mounted in the center of the housing on the axle) can last for several decades. Due to loud clicks and unpresentable appearance, they are changed to modern models.

Modern rotary devices have nothing to do with old models. In the center of the front panel there is a wheel marked in the form of a thickening arc. Power changes as you turn the key lighting fixtures. This happens due to the built-in rheostat.

Keyboards

The most common and traditional light switches in apartments and private houses are key devices. The electrical industry produces one, two, and three keyboard instruments. Several keys allow you to turn on individual groups of light bulbs in chandeliers, top and LED lightening on the walls. It is possible to combine the inclusion of different lamps.

push-button

Unlike keyboard devices, these devices have a microswitch under the button. Switching on is controlled by lightly pressing the button. The operation of the device does not produce clicks and is absolutely silent, which is important at night.

Motion sensors

Devices have become widespread since the mid-90s of the last century. Motion sensors are equipped with walk-through rooms and territories (corridors, stairwells, house adjoining areas). Switches can be devices of sectoral action and covering 3600 spaces.

The motion sensor is equipped with two rotary buttons that control the timer and control the level of natural light in the space.

The timer sets the period of short-term switching on of the light, which is necessary for a person to be in the controlled space. By means of a scale it is possible to set time of inclusion of lighting from 1 to 10 minutes.

The sensor reacts to the degree of natural light in the room. You can set the turn on mode when it is very cloudy or at dusk.

Replacing the light switch with a motion sensor significantly saves energy costs and extends the life of the lamps.

Touch

The action of the touch switch is similar to the push-button device. The difference is that the light is lit not by pressing, but by a light touch of the hand. The sensitive built-in microcircuit reacts to the slightest touch of a hand to the front panel of the device.

Wireless

Devices of this type exclude tactile contact with the switch. An infrared signal receiver is built into the body of the device, which emits a control panel. The photocell acts on the relay, which closes and opens the contacts of the phase wire. The remote control can control several lighting systems at a distance of 20-25 meters.

Dimmers

Dimmers are installed in such places of the room that are subject to maximum natural light during the daytime. When the level of illumination of the room decreases, the dimmer switches on to turn on the light. The light goes out when the desired level of natural light is restored.

How to replace the switch with your own hands

The problem of how to replace the switch is considered in three cases:

1. Replacing the overhead switch;
2. Replacing the built-in switch;
3. Replacing the overhead switch with a built-in device.

Replacing a surface switch

The problem of how to change a switch with one overhead type button with your own hands is simply solved. You need to do the following:

• Turn off the monoblock of the counter that feeds the corresponding switch. If the meter is directly connected to the electrical wiring of the apartment, then turn off the meter;
• Remove the screw with a screwdriver and remove the device case;
• Using a tester screwdriver, check the absence of voltage at the wire clamps (the indicator does not light up);
• The phase break wires are released from the clamps;
• Dismantle the switch platform;
• The process of installing new fittings takes place in reverse order.

Note! Also change devices with two or three buttons. Such structures are practically non-existent. Just set up a group of identical mono switches.

Replacing the built-in switch

As in the previous case, you will need a tester screwdriver and a simple screwdriver:

• turn off the current;
• remove one or two keys, depending on the design of the device;
• unscrew the screws (not completely) of the spacers from both sides;
• pull metal fittings out of the box;
• release from the wire clamps;
• The process for installing a new switch is reversed.

Additional Information. If the device is not a keyboard, but has a different design, then simply pry off the front panel with a screwdriver and perform the same actions as described above.

Replacing a surface-mounted switch with a built-in device

Such actions must be carried out when replacing external wiring with a hidden power supply. To change the switches, you will need the following tools and materials.

Tools:

• screwdriver tester;
• screwdrivers;
• perforator;
• drill bit for concrete for perforator;
• putty knife;
• construction knife;
• wire cutters;
• pliers.

Materials:

• switch assembly;
• insulating tape;
• alabaster.

Built-in switch installation instructions

After dismantling the open wiring, remove the old switch, lay concealed wiring to the installation site of the built-in light switch. The switch is installed in several stages:

1. A nozzle (crown) is inserted into the perforator cartridge for drilling brick or concrete. The crown is slightly larger in diameter and depth than the plastic box;
2. In the intended place, a hole is drilled with a puncher;
3. In the box, from the side of the wire drawing, the jumpers of the notches are cut with a knife;
4. The ends of the phase wire are pulled into the groove formed;
5. The mounting hole in the wall is filled with liquid alabaster;
6. Inserted into the opening plastic box. The box with its edges should be flush with the surface of the wall;
7. The ends of the wires are stripped of PVC coating to a length of 5-8 mm;
8. The ends are inserted into the clamps of the switch fittings and fixed with screws;

1. If the stripped places of the wires protrude beyond the clamps, they are covered with insulating tape;
2. The armature is inserted into the box;

1. Using a screwdriver, carefully screw in the screws of the side struts until they are fully fixed;
2. Fix a decorative overlay;
3. The keys are inserted with spikes into the holes of the levers;
4. Turn on the electricity meter.

If the light switch is of a different type, then the assembly is performed in accordance with the attached instructions. Regardless of the type of construction, the installation of the built-in device occurs in the same order. The exception is motion sensors. These are remote devices, they are mounted on the ceiling.

With a minimum experience with tools for any homeowner, it will not be difficult to decide how to change the switches with your own hands. The basic rule must be observed - all installation work must be carried out with the power switched off.

Video

In the process of life, one has to face the need to replace the switch. It might be at work office space or apartment, most often due to a repair or malfunction of the switch. In any case, if you want to learn how to replace switches with your own hands, so as not to resort to the services of an electrician, it will be useful for you to read this article.

Installation of sockets in drywall

Work principles

In order to make the replacement of switches and avoid mistakes that can lead to undesirable consequences:

• short circuit;
• failure of lighting fixtures;
• burnout of wiring in walls and junction boxes;
• worst case scenario - electric shock

it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of the switches, safety precautions, remember the schemes for their inclusion in the circuit electrical wiring, study the rules for dismantling, installation and connection, take into account design features when installing new switches various kinds.

Kinds

Switches are divided according to the method of mounting on the wall:

• Switches for flush wiring are inserted into a recess made in advance in the wall with a cylindrical plastic or metal socket.

Switches for concealed wiring

• Overhead switches for open wiring are used in wooden switchboard structures. In these cases, the wires are often attached to the wall surface or laid in special plastic cable channels.

Open Wiring Switch Installation Diagram

Products are divided according to the design of the terminals for fastening the ends of the wiring:

• Screw terminals clamp the stripped end of the wire between two plates. As a disadvantage of this design, one can note a slight heating of the contacts when clamped with brass plates. aluminum wire. The difference in the metals in the contact creates resistance; when current passes, the terminals heat up. For this reason, the screws must be periodically tightened to ensure a more reliable contact. If the wiring in the room is done copper wires, there will be no such problem.
• Clamping spring terminals do not require maintenance screwing. A powerful spring constantly presses on the brass plate pressing the stripped end of the wire. In this way, quality contact is constantly maintained.
• Switches are divided by the number of buttons: one-button, two-button and even three-button. One button turns on a light source with a single or group of lamps that turn on simultaneously, for example, in a toilet or bathroom.

Two-button and three-button can be used to turn on the light in different rooms or one large chandelier in the living room.

Almost always in the hall, lighting structures have several groups of lamps that can be turned on separately or all together using different buttons on the same switch. Listed here are the simplest, most commonly used in living conditions apartments and private houses light switches.

There are switches of more complex and expensive designs:

• Touch (capacitive) are triggered by a light touch with a finger;
• With a dimmer - by changing the resistance, you can achieve a smooth increase or decrease in brightness;
• Acoustic switches are triggered by a clap or voice command;
• FROM remote control have several functions: switching on by groups, changing brightness and others.

The principles of their work and the features of connecting with their own hands deserve consideration in a separate topic.

Dismantling

Doing repairs in the apartment with your own hands, at the stage of replacing switches, pay attention to safety rules. First of all on switchboard turn off the circuit breaker from which the lighting group is powered with the switch to be dismantled. By de-energizing the circuit, you eliminate the possibility of electric shock.

On older flush-mounted switches, the fixing bolts are located on the front panel and are easily accessible. In new models, they are located under the keys of the shift buttons, which are simply pry off with a screwdriver and removed. Having unscrewed the fastening screws and removed the top cover, you will see the design of the switch, fixed in a cylindrical frame.

Make sure that there is no voltage on the contacts, use an indicator screwdriver (there are many different types now with instructions attached). Modern screwdrivers with power sources, when in contact with the phase, give out a light indication and an acoustic signal.

AT classic version when making contact with the terminal, the thumb must be kept on the top of the handle, where contact is provided to provide a control circuit. If the indicator lamp of the screwdriver on one of the contacts lights up, the circuit breaker on the switchboard is not turned off.

Turn off the switch desired group, if there is no voltage at the terminals of the switch to be removed, proceed to the next steps.

Remove the two screws on the sliding bars that secure the switch frame to the wall socket. Unscrew the screws on the terminals, releasing the wires; if the ends have burnt insulation, bite off this area with wire cutters. Mark the phase wire by bending it, or glue electrical tape for ease of further connection.

Switches for open wiring are dismantled according to the same method, the difference is that they do not have a locking mechanism with sliding bars. Then the screws are unscrewed, pressing the switch design to the wall.

One button connection

Strip the insulation at the ends of the wires, connect 5 mm sections to the switch terminals, phase (red wire) - to the contact with the designation L1. Blue or black wire - to the contact with the designation L2. Insert the switch into the socket, fix the case with sliding bars, screwing in the screws.

Turn on the network at the switchboard and check the operation. It happens that switching off is carried out by pressing the key up, turn the switch body over or swap the wires. If everything is fine, screw decorative cover, fasten the switch key.

Two button installation

The difference in connection with a single-gang switch is that three phase wires are connected to terminal L3 and two wires to L1 and L2. The three-key switch has four wires: one phase and three contacts for different groups connections. The rest of the method of removal, installation and connection for flush and external wiring switches remains the same.

Installing a concealed wiring switch

Replacement. Video

The video will tell you how to change the switch in a house or apartment and what rules should be followed. This is something every owner can do.

Based on the above information, observing the safety rules, you can change ordinary switches of any type with your own hands without resorting to the services of an electrician. As practice shows, there is nothing difficult in replacing the switch, most people can do it at home.

Typically, a light switch will last up to 10-12 years, but there are times when it needs to be replaced sooner. The reasons may be different - mechanical damage, breakdown of the internal mechanism or obsolescence and unsightly appearance. For an experienced electrician, replacing a circuit breaker is a matter of five minutes. For a non-specialist, this time may increase to 10–15 minutes, but in any case, before starting to disassemble the switch, it is useful to familiarize yourself with its internal structure.

Replacing an old switch with a new one

There are three types of switches: with one key, two or three. To figure out how to make a replacement, consider an example of removing and installing a simple one-gang switch.

Photo gallery: types of electrical switches

All types of switches, including single-gang switches, can be used for flush or outdoor wiring With a two-gang switch, you can independently control two lines of lighting fixtures instrument

Repair, dismantling and replacement of the circuit breaker is only allowed when the power is off.

The circuit breakers on the switchboard must be turned off (check box at the bottom).

In order to ensure your own safety during work, you must turn off the electricity by lowering the corresponding box circuit breaker

To finally make sure that there is no voltage on the switch contacts, it is recommended to use a household voltage indicator by installing a metal leg in turn on each of the contacts. A direct confirmation of the disconnection of the network is also the fact that the working lamp of the lamp does not light up when the switch is turned on (button up).

When there is voltage inside the transparent plastic case, the LED lights up.

How to remove an old switch

First of all, you need to conduct a visual inspection. There are many types of switches, and they differ in the way they are assembled. In some, the outer cover is fixed with screws, in others it is held on by plastic latches.

To remove this antique switch, you need to unscrew the two bolts and remove the decorative cover.

1. First, the top protective cover is removed. If it is fixed on screws, they need to be unscrewed. To do this, use a screwdriver with straight slots. If the fastening is made by latches, then before removing the cover, you need to remove the key. This is done using the same screwdriver, gently inserting it into the gap between the case and the key. If there are several keys, then each of them is removed independently.
   
   The key is gently pry off with a screwdriver inserted into the slot, and removed with a screwdriver.
2. When the key is removed, the entire internal structure of the switch becomes available for disassembly. If the wiring device is hidden, the switch is recessed into the depth of the wall and is attached to the socket using sliding legs. They must be released by unscrewing the two screw bolts counterclockwise. You need to rotate them until the base falls out of the socket. If the wiring is external, the mount is slightly different. There are no sliding legs and a socket box, the switch body is fixed directly to the wall.
   The built-in switch is dismantled after unscrewing the two screws securing to the socket
3. By unscrewing two screws, you can get a base, inside of which there is a contact pair that opens the circuit for supplying current to the lamp.
   After unscrewing the bolts, the switch is freely removed from the socket
4. At the last stage of dismantling the switch, the wires are disconnected from it. They are inserted into special terminal blocks and fastened to them with screw clamps. By loosening the screws one and a half to two turns, you can easily pull the wires out of the sockets. They should not be completely unscrewed, as in some switches the fastening is designed in such a way that the cable is clamped between the screw and the square nut. If the nut comes off the thread, it will be difficult to reinstall it later.
   After loosening the wire fastening bolts, the switch body will remain in your hands

Video: how to disassemble the switch

Installing a new switch

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

1. The wires are connected in place.
2. The base is inserted into the socket and secured with spacer legs.
3. A plastic case is screwed on top.
4. A key is inserted into the grooves.

In this case, it is important to install the switch so that the lamp turns on when the button is pressed up. The assembly of the switch for external wiring is carried out identically, with the difference that after fixing the cable contacts, the base is screwed to the wall, then the case is attached to it, and lastly the key is installed.

The switch is installed in the reverse order of removing the old device.

How to move the switch to another location

Sometimes there is a desire (or need) to move the switch to another location. For example, when the children in the family grow up, but still cannot reach the switch. The rules for installing electrical appliances allow the switch to be moved to a convenient place for the user. It is allowed to install the switch at a height of 80 to 160 cm from the floor. In order to make such a move, you must first determine the new location. It is considered optimal to install a switch located 15–20 cm from the edge door jamb(right or left - it does not matter, but it is more common to install it on the right).

The switch is installed 15–20 cm from the door on either side

1. If the reinstallation is carried out within 1 m of the original location down or up, a strobe is made in the wall. Its depth should be approximately 1.5 times the thickness of the cable (or cables) laid in the corrugation. The wire should lie freely inside the groove without looking out. The strobe can be made with a puncher or a strobe cutter.
   To do concealed wiring, a strobe is made in the wall with a volume approximately 1.5 times larger than the size of the cable in the corrugated hose
2. In the place of the new position of the switch, a hole for the socket is drilled. This can be done with a perforator using diamond crown. The depth of the hole should be no more than 5 cm in concrete and brick houses and 4.5 cm - in panel. As a rule, a crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. However, there are various situations, and the crown is selected based on them. On this preparatory work are running out.
   The hole for the socket is drilled using a diamond core bit with a diameter of 68 mm
3. The next step is to turn off the mains power of the house (apartment) and complete disassembly switch described above. In addition to the switch itself, the socket box is also carefully removed from the wall. This can be done with a puncher or a simple chisel with a hammer. Socket boxes in concrete and brick walls are attached to gypsum, which, when exposed to blows, crumbles and collapses. It is important not to break the plastic housing of the socket itself, it can be reused.
   The socket box can be removed by carefully knocking out its edges and crumbling the adhesive layer of gypsum
4. After that, the cable is extended to the desired length. It is best to connect the wires using a terminal block or a regular Wago block, but if this is not possible, you can make a simple twist, while insulating it well with a dielectric tape. According to the rules for laying cables in strobes, the cable must be placed in the corrugation. Minimum size corrugated plastic sleeve is (outer diameter) 16 mm. The metal corrugation may be 9.8 mm across. The junction of the old and new corrugations must also be insulated. The size of the stackable cable is selected in such a way that there is a margin of 5–10 cm.
   If there are no terminal connectors at hand, you can do the usual twist, carefully insulating all open areas
5. After that, a socket is installed in a new place. The simplest and fast way- fix it on alabaster, quick-hardening electrical plaster. The solution is diluted in the ratio of 1 part alabaster to 1 part water by volume. Since the gypsum hardens very quickly, first install the socket in the hole in the wall, insert the corrugated cable into it, and only then prepare the solution.
   Alabaster must be diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 1 and quickly applied to the necessary places, because it hardens very quickly
6. After the alabaster is brought to the consistency of thick sour cream, it fills the strobe with the cable and the empty space around the socket. After 25–30 minutes, the solution will harden and it will be impossible to change the position of the wiring, so everything must be done within 5–7 minutes. Later, with a different solution, the strobe is completely puttied and leveled in the plane of the wall. The former location of the socket box is also completely filled with putty. For final alignment of all voids, ordinary gypsum is used, which sets only after 25-30 minutes (and some - up to an hour), which gives enough time to work. After the putty has completely dried (24 hours), the surface is polished with sandpaper.
   The strobe must be filled with mortar and carefully leveled, and after the alabaster has dried, sanded with sandpaper
7. The installation and connection of the switch is carried out after the strobe and the socket box are completely dry. The connection procedure is described above.

Sometimes (more often this happens in panel houses old building) you can come across a switch that is fixed in a recess without using a socket. This practice was characteristic of the buildings of the end of the previous century. The panels were poured at the factory, they provided for the installation of switches and sockets directly in concrete holes. For some (short) time, such switches served properly, but the sockets were the first to fail and fell out of their sockets when the cord was pulled out. Therefore, if there is no socket under the switch, the task will only be simplified.

In the case when the switch is moved over a considerable distance, it is possible to connect it to another junction box. But it makes no sense to describe this process without reference to specific situation. In this case best solution there will be a consultation with an experienced electrician directly on site.

It is much easier and faster to reset the circuit breaker when cabling outdoors. Obviously, in this case there is no need to ditch the walls, it is enough to stretch the cable channel or even just the cable in the corrugation to a new location.

Outdoor wiring is most often carried out in plastic boxes.

For corrugated sleeves, special brackets are available for sale to help fix them on the wall.

It is more convenient to fasten a corrugated hose with a cable inserted into it using plastic clips

Often such wiring is done in garages, warehouses and other office premises. Its clear advantage is high degree accessibility during repair or maintenance work. In addition, additional conductors can always be installed in the cable channel as needed.

Video: how to move the switch

Switch repair

Not always the old switch needs to be thrown away and replaced with a new one. Sometimes it is enough to repair it. The switch device is quite simple and can be repaired in case of a breakdown without much difficulty. If you carefully consider the disassembled switch, you can understand that the main function in it is performed by a contact pair, which moves from one position to another by the force of mechanical action. In one position, the electrical circuit is connected, in the other it is disconnected.

Necessary tools and materials

To disassemble and assemble the switch, you will need only one tool - a flat-blade screwdriver, the size of which is 3–5 mm. A piece is needed to strip the contacts sandpaper with fine grain or needle file.

Disassembly of the circuit breaker is carried out using a conventional flat-blade screwdriver.

How to disassemble the switch

The process of disassembling the switch has been described above. For convenience, we present it here again.

Modern switches consist of a non-separable base, which simply changes in case of damage.

Contact cleaning

If the switch is unstable (it turns on, then does not turn on the lamp), most likely the reason lies in burnt contacts. Upon closer inspection, such contacts may turn out to be slightly charred or even melted. This happens because the wire is not firmly fixed in the terminal block. Another reason may be a power surge in the network at the time of switching on. A lamp with too much power can also cause damage to the contacts over time. Be that as it may, contact must be restored, then it will continue to serve properly. To do this, it is cleaned with fine sandpaper until a uniform metallic color appears.

Fine sandpaper is used to clean the contacts.

Sometimes the conductor may be tinned, i.e. treated with tin. Then instead of sandpaper it is better to use a small file - a needle file.

Other Possible Problems and Solutions

Other problems with switches are rare. But there are times when a foreign body or some kind of debris gets inside the switch. For example, during renovation. Then it needs to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned of everything superfluous, it is advisable to blow the base with a vacuum cleaner. As a rule, after this, the operation of the switch is adjusted again.

How to assemble a switch

Assembly is in reverse order. If the repair is carried out for the first time, you can lay out the parts on the table in the order of disassembly or take pictures in stages. When repairing a single-gang switch, the location of the wires does not matter. But if there are two or three keys in it, then in order to avoid confusion, it is better to immediately mark the incoming core with a marker. They can also mark the place of its connection.

When installing a two-gang switch, it is necessary to correctly connect the lead wire (phase), which is best marked during disassembly

You can check the result of the repair after installing the base in the socket. To do this, turn on the mains power on the shield and test the switch. If it works normally, you can complete the assembly, install the protective case and the key.

Video: repair and replacement of the switch

Getting started on replacing the lighting switch, you need to take care of safety measures. It must be remembered that electric current can cause damage to health and is a danger to life. It is necessary to observe the main rule of health protection, which is that installation should only take place when the devices are disconnected from the mains.

Is your old wall switch broken? Or does it not suit you for aesthetic or other reasons? After reading this article, you will be able to easily replace the circuit breaker yourself without waiting for a master electrician to visit you.

The whole process will not take you much time and effort. You just need to be careful if you are going to change a two- or three-gang switch. The fact is that you will need to pre-mark the wires connected to the old switch in order to screw them to the new one in the same sequence. This will allow you later, when you press the keys of the new switch, to turn on the light in the sequence that you were used to before. When replacing a one-button switch, these manipulations will be redundant.

First of all, you need. Turn off the breaker (or unscrew the plugs) on switchboard. Value your life and health.

Switch replacement

1. Remove the switch key(s) by prying it(them) off the edges one by one with a flat screwdriver or spatula.

After that remove decorative frame- overlay. Depending on the design of the circuit breaker, it can be attached directly to the body of the circuit breaker, or through an additional pressure plate.

Pry off the frame or the plate fixing it with a flat screwdriver, and pull it towards you.

It should snap off and be removed from the switch housing. After you have removed the keys and the frame, you will have access to either the screws that secure electric wires to the switch terminals, or the wires themselves.

With the switch in the off position, touch all the screws one by one with an indicator screwdriver, or to the bare sections of the wires to make sure that there is no phase voltage in the wires and the switch can be replaced safely. The control lamp of the indicator should not light up at the same time. If the indicator light is on somewhere, try turning off another switch on the shield, or turn off the power to the entire apartment.

After you have made sure that there is no phase voltage in the wires, you can safely continue.

2. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing the switch housing to the socket by turning them counterclockwise. If these are the screws of the spacer "legs", then it is enough to unscrew them by 3-5 turns (loosen the mount).

If the switch is screwed to the socket box with screws (screws), then to remove the switch it is necessary to unscrew them completely.

Remove the switch from the socket, as far as the wires allow, gently straightening them.

If you have a one-button switch installed, then unscrew the screws with which the wires are screwed to the switch terminals by 2-3 turns and disconnect the wires from the switch.

Some types of switches can be equipped with self-clamping terminals (no screws required). In such terminals, the wires are inserted with some force into the holes intended for this, without subsequently being fixed with screws. If you don't see any sign of screws where the wires enter the switch, try pulling hard on the wire and it should pop out of the terminal clamp. Or find and press the release button, which will release the wire.

If there are more than one buttons on your switch, then mark all the wires in the order in which they are screwed to the switch. Hang tags, mark with a marker, stick different pieces of electrical tape, or in some other way mark the wires, so that you can connect them to the new switch in the same sequence. One wire (phase, if the electricians did everything right) should be connected on one side of the switch, the other 2 or 3 on the other.

3. Inspect the wires for damage. If the end of the wire is damaged, oxidized or broken, and the length of the wires allows them to be shortened a little, then cut the broken section with side cutters and strip 5-7 mm of insulation.

Also check the socket in which the switch was fixed. If it hangs in the wall or has begun to fall apart for some reason, it will be better to replace it.

If everything is in order with the socket, then you can connect new switch.

4. Remove the new switch from the packaging. Remove the switch key(s) by carefully prying them off the edge. Try to do this carefully, without damaging the plastic surface of the keys and the frame. Carefully remove the frame. Some frame fixers have rather gentle plastic latches. If they are broken due to careless handling, then subsequently the frame on the switch will hang out rather unaesthetically, so do not rush. Do everything carefully.

5. Connect the wires, connecting them according to the markings you made earlier. On some switches, the designation of the contacts may be indicated on the back cover: L and 1 , 2 , 3 . Here "L" is a contact for connecting a phase wire; 1, 2, 3 - outgoing contacts, which can also be marked with arrows.

Insert the wires one by one into the corresponding sockets on the switch, and fix the wires by tightening the terminal screws with force. After you screw the wires, try to lightly pull on the wire, thus checking the security of the fixation. If the wire pops out of the terminal, tighten the screw harder next time.

If your new switch has self-locking wire terminals, which can be identified by the absence of screws to fix the wires, then all you need to do is insert the stripped end of the conductor into a special socket, and the wires will automatically lock into such a terminal.

6. Install the switch in place, along the way helping the wires to fit freely in the socket. Align the switch and fix it with the help of sliding tabs (alternately tightening the fastening screws of the tabs clockwise), or screw it to the box with screws (if holes for screws are provided in the box).

When installing, keep in mind that according to the rules of ergonomics, switching on the light with switches located at head level is done by pressing the upper part of the switch key (up - turning on the light).

Well, those switches that are installed at waist level, on the contrary, turn on the light by pressing lower part keys (down - turn on the light).

After securely fixing the switch in the socket, you will only have to install and fix the decorative frame, then put the switch key (s) inside the frame and put it (them) in place by gently pressing.

7. Turn on the breaker on the switchboard and enjoy the work you have done!

I must say that if you still mixed up or did not mark the wires (if there are more than two), then you will need to find the phase wire. To do this, separate the bare ends of the wires so that they do not touch each other and the wall so that they can be safely touched with an indicator screwdriver. Turn on the electricity with the switch you turned off earlier.

Touch each wire in turn with the tip of the indicator screwdriver (do not forget to keep one finger on the contact pad of the indicator screwdriver) and find the phase wire. When you touch this wire, the indicator light should light up. Label this wire. Then turn off the electricity again.

The marked wire will subsequently need to be connected to the part of the switch where there is an input for only one wire (sometimes this input is indicated by the letter L on the back cover).

If none of the wires turned out to be phase, or more than one wire causes the indicator to glow, then in this case, to determine correct option connection, it would still be better for you to use the help of an electrician.

It will not be superfluous in this article to also say a few words about installing dimmers.

A dimmer (dimmer) is an electronic device designed to adjust the power electric current. Typically a dimmer is used to adjust the brightness of incandescent lamps.

The dimmer is installed in the socket in the same way as a conventional light switch. A conventional monoblock dimmer is connected in the same way as a conventional light switch: with two wires.

Depending on the design, dimmers are:

• rotary-push, which turn on when you press the knob, and the adjustment is made by turning it.
• rotary, all controlled by turning the knob. Turning on the light with such dimmers always starts with a minimum brightness.
• keyboards that look like normal switches. When the key is pressed, the on / off is performed, and when the key is held for more than 3 seconds, smooth adjustment occurs.
• sensory, operated by touching the touch panel.

With the obvious advantages and convenience of dimmers over traditional light switches, they have some disadvantages.

The first and obvious one is the price. A good dimmer costs several times more than a good switch.

Dimmers should not be used to control the brightness of fluorescent (energy-saving) or LED lamps- their electronics will interfere with the operation of the dimmer electronics, and vice versa. As a result, both devices will fail.

In conclusion, watch a short video that will help you visually understand the procedure for replacing the switch. The video will open in a separate window.

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Replacing a light switch in an apartment is a fairly simple operation that even a beginner can handle. House master. All you need is basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to work with a simple tool.

Preparatory stage

The main thing when working with electricity is safety. In the absence of self-confidence, it is recommended to use the services of a professional electrician.

If you decide to do the work yourself, we follow the following preparatory steps:

1. The lack of light is not caused by problems in the electrical network, but by the burnout of the cartridge. We check the cartridge.
2. We look to see if there is light in other parts of the house (apartment).
3. If, as a result of the check, there are no malfunctions that are not related to electrical network, proceed to dismantle the switch. Before changing the switch, we de-energize the apartment. To do this, we use a cutter. We check the mains voltage with an indicator. Letting family members know about the event repair work. No one should use the light while the switch is being replaced.

For electrical installation, you will need the following tools and materials:

• voltage indicator (do not use this tool as a screwdriver due to excessive fragility);
• a set of screwdrivers (Phillips and a pair of flat tools of different sizes);
• pliers;
• stationery knife;
• insulating tape;
• flashlight for illuminating dark areas.

Dismantling

We perform the work in the following sequence:

1. Remove the keys from the switch. We do this with a screwdriver, prying the keys. We remove the double keys one by one.
2. Remove the outer panel of the box with the same screwdriver.
3. When the panel is removed, the screws that hold the switch itself become visible. Unscrew the screws.
4. We take out the switch from the niche.
5. We disconnect the wires. It is important to remember the order of connecting the wires. It is recommended to take a picture working field so that you don't get confused later.

One button connection

Before replacing any light switches, we clean the insulating layer on the wires. Five-millimeter sections of wires are laid in the switch terminals. We direct the phase wire (red) to the contact designated as L1. We bring a blue (black) wire to contact L2. The switch is installed in a niche. We fix the case with the help of sliding strips and screws.

We start the power supply on the switchboard and test the system for operability.

Sometimes the light is turned off by moving the key up. Then we turn the case of the device and change the conductors in places. Fixing decorative panel and switch key.

Two button installation

Replacing a single-key switch with a two-key switch is carried out according to the same algorithm as in the case of a single-key switch.

There is a difference: you will need to connect three phase conductors to terminals L1, L2 and L3. For a three-key device, we use four conductors: one to the phase, and one to each contact.

Wires are not used in every case familiar colors: red for phase, black (blue) for zero. In old buildings and in private houses, the color scheme is often different. There are also single-color wires. It is recommended to look for the necessary wires using the indicator.