How to drill a hole in a concrete wall. Drilling holes in walls

Concrete is a very strong material with a heterogeneous structure, so it is quite difficult to drill it. To date, the most common way to create technological holes in concrete is drilling with a perforator. This method allows you to create holes quickly enough and with good quality.

The difficulty of drilling holes in concrete lies in the fact that it has a very high strength and is therefore difficult to process. In addition, concrete surfaces are not uniform in composition. They may include metal reinforcement, crushed stone and other fillers, and this greatly complicates the work. A hammer drill is capable of handling such work, which can drill holes with and without impact, as well as perform impacts without drilling.

With the help of a perforator, it is possible to carry out all types of repair and construction work related to solid materials. This tool is trusted for all concrete, brick or natural stone. Drill deep and wide holes, punch channels for laying electrical wiring, chip ceramic tiles, remove plaster or punch through masonry- all this can be done with a puncher.

The hardness of crushed stone inclusions in concrete is much higher than the hardness of other fractions

Such a multifunctional tool as a hammer drill is able to make holes in concrete of various sizes and for various purposes. Especially often this has to be done in the process:

air conditioner suspensions;
furniture installations;
plumbing installation;
electrical wiring devices;
finishing work.

Types of punchers

Perforators, like any electric tool, are divided into household and professional:

household punchers intended for home use. Basically, they are equipped with an SDS-plus cartridge and have a power of not more than 900 watts. Equipment of this type is offered by such well-known companies as Bosch, Skil, Hyundai, Black Decker, as well as domestic producers Energomash, Caliber, Interskol, Enkor, etc.;
professional punchers able to withstand fairly intense loads, work longer without interruption. They have better protection from vibrations. by the most well-known manufacturers in this segment are Bosch, Hitachi, Makita, Metalbo, Dewalt.

Depending on the number of operating modes, perforators are divided into:

single-mode. Such hammers are the simplest and work like an ordinary drill. With their help, you can drill holes in wooden, plastic or metal surfaces;
dual-mode perforators capable of drilling with impact. This mode is the main one for the puncher, therefore it is widely used when it is necessary to make blind or through holes in a concrete or brick wall. Impact drilling is also called drilling. The efficiency of this process lies in the fact that the cutting tool installed in the hammer penetrates the solid base very quickly due to high strength hit. In order for a tool (crown or drill) to simultaneously rotate and make an impact, it is usually made of very high quality materials;
tri-mode perforators can strike without turning the spindle. This mode is also the main one and is called slotting. In this case, the spindle performs only reciprocating movements. The puncher in the chiseling mode performs dismantling work, for example, remove old tiles, destroy beams, brickwork, chip off plaster, make large holes for utilities, ditch grooves for electrical wiring. Chisels (chisels) are used as equipment, differing in purpose and shape. All types of these Supplies combines one common property - the ability to open the structure of the stone with a blow, and then wedged it, thus destroying the hard surface.

Tri-mode perforators are the most versatile, but their cost is quite high.

Tool weight groups

There are three groups of perforators depending on their weight:

light hammer drills. This group includes tools weighing no more than 4 kg and with a power of up to 800 watts. The impact energy of such perforators rarely exceeds 3 J. Such a tool is intended for home use;
perforators middle group weigh 4-8 kg. Their power is 800-1200 W, and the impact energy is approximately 10 J. Such hammers are professional equipment and can even work with reinforced concrete. Basically, they are used to work in two modes - drilling with impact and just impact;
to the heavy group include perforators weighing more than 8 kg, power - from 1200 W and impact energy - from 13 J. With their help, breaks and holes are made in surfaces made of concrete and natural stone with a diameter of more than 40 mm.

Horizontal and vertical models

Perforators have not only different specifications but also the design. Some of them are similar to conventional drills because their motor is located horizontally. This arrangement is the most convenient for drilling holes and allows you to work with very high precision. Most of the light class rotary hammers have a horizontal layout.

For drilling large diameter holes and chiseling, rotary hammers with a vertically mounted motor are more suitable. The tool, firstly, is more compact. Secondly, a vertically mounted engine cools better. Almost all medium and heavy class rotary hammers have a body shape similar to the letter L. As a rule, horizontal models are chosen for those situations when it is necessary to drill holes, and vertical ones - if it is necessary to hammer.

Cartridge types

There is another difference between perforators. This is a type of chuck for mounting cutting tool. The cartridge plays the role of a link between the tool and the puncher. In order for the work to be carried out efficiently, the clamping device must meet a number of requirements.

For example, a chisel or auger must be securely held in the chuck, and tightening and releasing must be easy and safe. At the same time, the drill must maximally perceive the highest torque and impact force that the puncher is capable of delivering. Its shank has a special design for this. The method of fastening the cutting tool in the rotary hammer is referred to as SDS (Special Direct System).

Please note that each mounting system has its own equipment:

SDS plus. Torque is transmitted by two symmetrical long slots, and two oval grooves fix the shank in the chuck. The shank diameter is 10 mm. This system fasteners are used in punchers weighing up to 4 kg;
SDS top. The system is based on the same principle as the previous one, but is used for tools with a higher impact load, which belong to the medium weight group. The shank diameter is 14mm;
SDS-max. The torque in this fastening system is already transmitted by three long asymmetrical splines. The shank with a diameter of 18 mm is fixed in the chuck with two oval grooves.

The SDS-max mounting system is designed for rock drills weighing more than 8 kg

Perforator device

Any perforator consists of two constructive systems - electrical and mechanical.. constituent elements the electrical system is the electric motor, the operating mode switch and electronics, and the mechanical system is the crank mechanisms, gears and the chuck for mounting the tool. Both systems are enclosed in a case, which can be plastic, metal or a combination.

A very important knot of the perforator is the percussion mechanism, which provides the main percussion function of this tool. The percussion mechanism according to the type of execution can be electropneumatic or electromechanical. The first type is now used in most models of rotary hammers. The use of such a mechanism makes it possible to obtain high impact energy with a minimum power of the electric motor.

The shock electro-pneumatic mechanism can be presented in two versions - with a swinging (“drunk”) bearing or with a crank mechanism. The first option is used mainly in light hammers, and the second - in medium and heavy ones.

During the operation of the rotary hammer, the rotational movement of the electric motor is converted by the crank mechanism into the reciprocating movement of the piston. The ram, under the action of compression present in the cavity between it and the piston, accelerates and transfers its energy through the drummer to the working tool - a drill, a crown, a chisel, etc.

Main technical characteristics

One of the main technical parameters perforator is the impact energy, measured in joules. The impact force of light models is no more than 1-2 J, and heavier hammers can work with an impact force of 8-15 J. The greater the impact force, the larger the hole diameter can be obtained.

If this value is small, then the hammer drill does not work more efficiently than an impact type drill. In this case, he will drill a hole, and not punch. As a result, the cutting tool will wear out quickly enough and you will have to forget about high performance.

Impact frequency

The value, called the impact frequency, indicates how many times in one minute the piston hits the striker. The larger this value, the higher the hole drilling speed. The performance of a perforator depends on both the impact energy and the frequency. In the most durable and efficient equipment, both of these parameters are harmoniously combined.

Spindle speed

Depending on the class of the perforator, the spindle speed can be from 600 to 1500 rpm. With an increase in productivity and power of the perforator, the rotational speed decreases. This is due to the design features of this tool. For productive models, the tooling diameter can be quite large. A small diameter drill has to rotate quickly, and a large one slowly, otherwise it will wear out very quickly.

Clogged spiral flutes can even jam the tool in the hole

Hammer drills with high speed are quite impressive weight which does not make it easy to use. In addition, high-speed models wear out very quickly spiral grooves designed to remove drilling waste from the job site. This causes the device to get very hot.

Hammer drills can be equipped with the following additional features:

gearshift mechanism. It will be useful when switching from a drill to a drill and vice versa. After all, these tools work at different speeds;
drilling depth gauge. With its help, it is easy to determine whether the drill or drill has reached the required mark;
speed stabilization spindle with fluctuating load forces;
soft start and a special device for protection against overheating;
shaft reverse rotation. Such a function will be needed when the drill gets stuck in the hole being machined;
anti-vibration system, which compensates for the shaking of the perforator when drilling, drilling or chiselling;
dust protection during work;
locking button used to secure the puncher in operation.

As you can see, the perforator has whole line advantages over other tools that perform similar tasks:

Firstly, this is the presence of a separate mechanism responsible for the impact. This mechanism gives the puncher the ability to realize three modes of operation, that is, it is able to simply drill, drill with impact and carry out only impact;
Secondly, perforators have an SDS system for clamping equipment. Her design features provide reliable fixation of equipment and its free movement. In addition, installing a snap-in on an SDS system does not require the use of additional tools which significantly saves working time;
third As a result of the first two advantages, the hammer drill is able to drill holes in materials that are quite difficult to machine, such as concrete and natural stone.

Features of perforator drilling technology

Concrete structures are characterized by very high strength, reliability and durability, so their share in modern construction is constantly increasing. Along with this, it is necessary to solve the problem of efficient drilling of concrete surfaces. Most often, a hammer drill is used for this purpose, which has several advantages over other tools, such as an impact drill. The drill, fixed in the perforator chuck, bites into concrete surface much lighter and with less loss than a drill bit. Therefore, with the help of a hammer drill, concrete is drilled much faster.

This result is achieved due to several factors. First of all, a hammer drill has more power than a drill. The hammer drill makes translational movements with a greater amplitude than the drill of an impact drill. In addition, the impacts of the hammer drill have more force, so it drills the wall easier and faster.

The rotation speed of the rotary hammer chuck is less than that of a drill

Concrete is a durable material and is not easy to drill. This is due to its structure and the fillers used. The tool that is used for drilling is forced to face dissimilar materials- metal fittings and crushed stone. They are the main obstacle in the way of a drill or a drill, which can only overcome one of them. That is why drilling holes in concrete surfaces is carried out with various tools.

As a cutting tool use:

drill;
borax;
crowns.

A separate category is made up of punches, which are hand tool and perform support functions. The punch is a metal long trihedron with a pointed end. It is used when the cutting tool rests on the crushed stone present in the concrete. In such a situation, a punch is inserted into the hole made and hit with a hammer to crush the “pebble”.

Drill

For drilling in concrete, carbide-tipped or diamond-tipped drills are used. This tool can make a hole of small diameter (no more than 14 mm).

Boers

They differ from drills in the shape of the shank. Drills are considered a one-time tool, since they cannot be sharpened and are thrown away after their resource is exhausted. Their advantage is that they are able to remove concrete chips obtained during the drilling process from the hole. This tool is advisable to use when drilling holes of great depth, including through ones. With a drill, you can drill holes with a diameter of 4 to 80 mm.

When drilling holes with a drill, reinforcement poses a certain danger. As a rule, the drill immediately burns out after a direct hit on the metal. If the tool passes tangentially to the reinforcement element, then it simply jams and further drilling becomes impossible. So for reinforced concrete it is better to use diamond crowns.

Crowns

The crowns are a piece of metal pipe, on one end of which there are cutting elements of very high strength, and on the other - a shank for fixing the tool in the perforator chuck. The cutting edges of the crowns can be in the form of carbide teeth, "welded" on the metal or flat diamond-coated. This tool is used for drilling holes of large diameters. With it, you can get holes in concrete with a diameter of 50-450 mm.

More versatile is drilling holes with diamond core bits. Such crowns have wide cutting segments or a solid cutting surface with a diamond (corundum) abrasive. They are used for drilling reinforced concrete using the non-impact method, which protects the load-bearing structural elements from vibrations. Diamond crowns have a fairly long service life. For example, a crown with a diameter of 200 mm with high-quality diamond segments can process up to 20 running meters concrete with an average degree of reinforcement.

Toothed crowns are commonly used when working concrete with a hammer drill in hammer mode.

Drilling holes in concrete

After turning on the perforator, the crown begins to perform circular translational movements in concrete and, as the working pressure increases, moves in the right direction. During operation, the tool gets quite hot. To protect it from overheating, a cooling system is used.

There are two drilling methods - dry and wet.. In the latter case, the tool cooler is water. It must be supplied continuously and in sufficient quantity. The required volume of water depends on the diameter of the crown and is usually indicated in the instructions. Exceeding this value makes it difficult to move the tool, and a lack of it leads to rapid wear of the cutting segments.

During dry drilling, the tool is cooled by air. Therefore, the crown must be periodically removed from the hole being processed in order to cool and check its performance. The advantage of the dry method is that drilling can be done anywhere, in structures of any shape and type. But dry drilling can only be done at shallow depths.

When drilling through holes the drilled concrete remains inside the bit and is removed with it. When a blind hole is made, the concrete remaining in the center of the drilled circle must be removed by chipping with a chisel or chisel. To speed up the drilling process, you can get the crown after it goes a little deeper into the concrete surface and make several holes of the required depth along the contour of the circle using a pobedit drill, the diameter of which should be equal to the width of the crown segments. Then continue drilling with a crown.

Drilling reinforced concrete

For drilling holes in reinforced concrete, conventional drills are not suitable, because they simply cannot withstand high loads. The most effective way to drill reinforced concrete today is to use a diamond tool. With the help of such a tool, it is possible to obtain holes that correspond to a given diameter and depth with a jeweler's accuracy.

The essence of the technology is that a tool with diamond cutting segments allows you to make holes of different diameters and depths without any damage to the supporting elements of buildings. This is precisely the main advantage this method drilling compared to, for example, carbide drills or a jackhammer. When drilling with a diamond tool, the walls do not experience vibrations, so their design is preserved in its original form.

Among the advantages of diamond drilling, it should be noted:

almost one hundred percent accuracy of the shapes and sizes of holes;
lack of a large amount of dust and noise;
high speed of work;
possibility of using the tool in hard-to-reach places and in a wide variety of conditions.

The main technological stages of drilling holes with a perforator

Workplace preparation

The workplace, first of all, should be well lit and free from unnecessary objects and strangers. It is necessary to check whether it is hidden by a wall or in another working surface electrical cable or pipe. This can be done with a special detector.

The drilling site should be inspected for old contaminants. If there are stains, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned. Since the outer layer of concrete is usually looser than the inner layer, before starting drilling, it is necessary to mark and expand the point of the future hole, that is, to make a recess for the drill to enter so that it does not slip off and does not go to the side.

If you plan to work outdoors, you should make sure that the extension cord used is suitable for outdoor use.

Preparing the cutting tool for work

Starting drilling, it is necessary to produce and prepare the working tool. This training includes:

unscrewing and cleaning the cartridge;
applying a special lubricant to the internal surfaces of the cartridge;
the cartridge prepared for work is installed and securely fixed.

Since drilling concrete is a long and difficult process, it is necessary to constantly monitor that the cutting tool does not overheat. A drill that heats up quickly or makes its way very hard is most likely simply dull or incorrectly sharpened. Before starting work, it is imperative to inspect the drill and other tools used.

Before starting drilling, the operating mode is checked. The puncher is turned on and checked for Idling. It lasts no more than one minute.. During the operation of the puncher, there should be no extraneous sounds and vibration. The appearance of smoke or a burning smell will indicate that the hammer drill is not working properly.

Hole drilling

A drill or drill is placed in the location of the hole and the punch is turned on. Work begins at a low speed, and then gradually increase it.

In the process of drilling, it is necessary to avoid distortion of the cutting tool. There is no pressure on the perforator. After the hole is filled with dust and concrete particles, the drill is removed and the hole is cleaned.

when drilling hard coatings, lubricants and coolants should be used;
before using a long drill, it is first recommended to drill with a shorter nozzle;
in order to prevent spillage of porous and loose materials, their processing should be carried out in the drilling mode;
after drilling 170-180 holes, the drill shank is cleaned of dust, wiped with a dry cloth and lubricated with grease;
when using a professional puncher, periods of continuous work and rest are alternated (working time - 30 minutes, break - 10 minutes);
a break must be made with strong heating of the part of the body at the location of the gearbox;
it is strictly forbidden to cool the perforator by lowering it into water;
it is not recommended to increase the impact force of the perforator by increased pressure on the surface to be treated.

After completion of work, the hammer is turned off and cleaned. soft cloth. If necessary, use a cloth soaked in soapy water.

Mandatory cleaning of dust and dirt are subject to the ventilation holes of the perforator

Security measures

Drilling concrete is a dusty, complex and extremely demanding job. It carries, first of all, the risk of injury. In addition, drilling walls can compromise their strength and integrity, and even during drilling, you can stumble upon communications and damage them or even get an electric shock.

When carrying out work, you must wear personal protection: respirator, goggles, earplugs, canvas gloves and special clothing. Work at a height of more than 1.5 m from the ground is work at height, so it is necessary to provide the worker reliable support as scaffolding. Drilling walls from a ladder or ladder is strictly prohibited.

The perforator must be correct. The presence of damage to the insulation of the supply cable is not allowed. During drilling, the cable must be positioned so that it cannot be damaged in any way. There is also a significant danger concealed wiring and junction boxes walled up in the walls. Therefore, before drilling, it is necessary to carefully check the surface for the presence of current-carrying wires using an electromagnetic radiation detector.

Concrete drilling cost

The cost of drilling depends on the type of concrete, diameter, shape and required hole depth.

Estimated cost of drilling holes with a puncher:

Hole diameter, mm	Cost of 1 cm of passage, rub
Hole diameter, mm	in a concrete wall	lightweight concrete	reinforced concrete
up to 50	11	14	16
50-100	17	21	28
100-200	27	40	46
200-300	38	82	89
400	93	119	129

conclusions

The main task of the hammer drill is drilling with impact and chiselling. For its implementation, the perforator has a very robust design allowing it to easily endure prolonged shock loads. This tool has a large impact force, which allows you to perform work quickly and easily.

It should be noted that the scope of rotary hammers with a horizontal and vertical engine is slightly different. Horizontal models are usually used in the home. In the professional field, they are used for intensive drilling of holes of small diameter and length. Due to their light weight, horizontal hammer drills can be used for a long time on weight, for example, during installation stretch ceilings or installing doors.

Vertical perforators are used for chasing and laying pipes. Tools of this class are quite expensive and are used exclusively for highly specialized tasks.

Practical tips for drilling concrete with rebar with a perforator are shown in the video:

When preparing for repairs in the house, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to drill the walls. For example, to fix a profile for drywall sheets. At this stage, some difficulties usually arise, since in many houses the walls are made of concrete. In addition to high strength, the material can be combined with reinforcement, which makes the work doubly difficult. To drill a concrete wall with a conventional drill, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of the workflow in advance.

drilling bearing walls and partitions made of concrete - not an easy task. To get the job done quickly and efficiently need to know some secrets and tricks. And it doesn't hurt to listen to the opinion experienced craftsmen who advise:

How to choose a tool

Most often, a hammer drill is used to drill concrete. It has several advantages over a conventional drill.

These include:

Despite these advantages, such a tool is not always suitable for work. In some situations, its use is simply impractical.

The perforator will not work in the following cases:

when shallow holes (10–12 mm) are needed in the wall;
when working with a foam block (otherwise the material will crumble);
if required amount holes does not exceed 15 pieces.

Based on this, we can conclude that for home use is more suitable conventional drill. To purchase such a tool for drilling walls, you need to consider a number of important points.

The drill must meet the following requirements:

It must be impact, since this type is most effective when drilling concrete walls. In a hammerless drill, the bits and chuck will fail too quickly.
It is better to buy nozzles for it with victorious ones, with a purpose for concrete work. And the tip is coated with durable alloys.

You can also choose a hammer drill. True, such a tool is more expensive than a conventional model. But on the other hand, it has increased power, which can be adjusted at your discretion.

What nozzles are better

In order to be able to drill a concrete wall with a drill, you must first select the appropriate nozzles. They must exactly match the design.

The following types are suitable for work:

Before using any nozzles, it is necessary to check the wall for the presence of cables and wires, as well as fittings (if there is a device for detecting metal). This will help protect the wall from major damage, and the tool from breakage.

First you need to prepare a drill, nozzles and other related items. Then in the process of work you will not have to be distracted and waste time looking for the right things.

Drilling is often necessary in cases where:

rough finish;
wiring;
plumbing installation;
concreting communications.

At the same time, the concrete wall (if it is drilled correctly) should remain without severe damage and large chips.

When working with a drill with a pobedite nozzle, sometimes you need to use a metal punch. It is selected according to the size of the hole. This tool makes it possible for the drill not to jam when the drill is deepened. To do this, the punch is driven into concrete and hammered to break apart a solid obstacle. This process can take quite a long time, so it is better to use a diamond crown. In addition, a drill with such a nozzle will never get stuck in concrete.

Drilling sequence:

Inspect the tools carefully. The drill must be in good condition, and the drill must be intact.
Start carefully drilling a hole in the concrete with a drill, stopping the continuous operation of the tool after 10 minutes from the start of the action.
You can continue the process only after the motor has cooled down.
Before drilling the next hole, it is necessary to moisten the nozzle with water. This will protect the metal from warping.

In such simple ways, you can drill a concrete wall without a puncher.

Sometimes there are cases when the drill gets stuck in the wall. It is not desirable to use force in this case, otherwise it will break off, and the edge of the nozzle will remain in the concrete. To free the drill, you must first disconnect it from the drill, then put on a smaller diameter crown and remove the stuck part.

To perform drilling yourself and at the same time avoid various injuries and unpleasant incidents, you need to follow safety precautions and follow the recommendations of specialists.

Category: Walls and partitions

Our modern housing is increasingly built from monolithic reinforced concrete slabs with increased strength. When arranging such houses, drilling concrete walls causes certain difficulties, and almost every home master has encountered them, probably giving up this idea. In this lesson, we will answer in detail next questions, namely: how to drill a concrete wall correctly how to prepare the surface for drilling and what tools and fixtures will be needed for this.

Preparing to Drill a Wall

Before you start drilling a concrete wall, make sure that there are no plumbing pipes or steam heating pipes nearby. You can check this with a metal detector. This is a special device that reacts to such types of metal as iron, steel, and non-ferrous metals. This device will also help to detect conductive electrical cables located near the drilling site.

Since a concrete wall is a monolith of metal rods and crushed rock, fastened together with sand and cement, you will need special drills made of hard alloys to drill holes. For these purposes, suitable drill bits or universal, which have a diamond coating. Reinforcement caught in the wall is drilled with metal drills.

How to drill a concrete wall with a drill

Usually, a drill for drilling holes in a concrete wall is used if you need to drill 2-3 pieces of small diameter, for example, to hang a picture, a small cabinet or a shelf. If the drill does not have a percussion function, then in addition to the drill, you will also need a hammer and a metal pin (punch) that matches the diameter of the hole. As the drill sinks into the concrete wall, from time to time it is necessary to insert the punch into the hole and hit it with a hammer to punch too dense areas, not forgetting to turn it a little. Having crushed a dense area with a punch, the process of drilling a concrete wall with a drill can be continued further until you get a hole of the required depth.

This rather laborious process can be made much easier and faster if you use an impact drill when drilling holes, but it is better to use it for such work.

How to drill a concrete wall with a hammer drill

Since the main purpose of the hammer drill is shock work when processing hard materials, using it when drilling a concrete wall will be most welcome. With the help of an electro-pneumatic mechanism, the hammer drill makes progressive percussive movements and creates deep and accurate holes. A hammer drill differs from a percussion drill in that its main principle is not drilling, but impact. Thus, the process of how to drill a concrete wall with a perforator is much faster and better.

Before you start drilling a concrete wall, mark the location of the intended hole with a pencil and select a drill of the required diameter. Next, with a punch or by setting the tool in the "drilling only" mode, make a small recess. After that, setting the “drilling with impact” mode on the puncher, a hole is made to the required depth. At the end of the work, the drill is removed. It is also advisable to remove concrete dust from the hole with a vacuum cleaner.

To drill a concrete wall quickly and efficiently, you can use the following tips:

a drill is used when it is necessary to drill several shallow holes with a diameter of up to 13 mm, for deeper and wider ones, a puncher or special equipment is used;
when drilling holes for a plastic dowel, make a hole depth of 8-10 mm more length dowels, because after drilling, dust from crushed material remains in the recess;
in order for the drilling to be accurate and the drill not to jump over the surface, it is necessary to switch the equipment to the “drilling” mode before starting work, without giving the drill a high speed. Further, as a small recess is obtained, you can add speed and switch the tool to the impact mode;
so that the drill does not break from overheating, it must be moistened with cold water;
when drilling holes, be sure to wear safety glasses to prevent crumbs from getting into your eyes;
the resulting dust can be collected with a vacuum cleaner by holding it close to the hole while drilling.

Now you know that the holes are deep and neat. The video below will clearly show you how to drill a concrete wall with a hammer drill.

When landscaping an apartment, it becomes necessary to mount all kinds of objects on the walls and ceiling - photographs, paintings, lamps, mirrors, curtains, shelves, TVs, skirting boards and much more.

In order to hang a photo or a small picture, of course, you should not drill into the wall. It is enough to hammer in a small nail. Not every carnation is suitable for this business. It is best to use a dowel - nails from mounting brackets that fix computer network cables to the walls. These studs are long enough, thick and hardened. It turns out, to score even in a concrete wall.

Performing the operation of drilling holes in the walls with modern equipment with power tools will not present more difficulty if you know how to properly drill. It will save you from unnecessary cleaning and keep your property intact if you use a jig for dust-free drilling.

How to drill a wall

A better tool than a puncher for drilling holes in brick and concrete walls has not yet been invented. But rarely anyone can afford the luxury of having such an expensive tool in the household. Usually buy an electric impact drill.

Drill selection

At the time of buying electric drill Please refer to the following specifications.

The power of the drill must be at least 600 watts. Revolutions up to 2500 per minute and the possibility of their smooth adjustment from zero to maximum. The presence of reverse rotation (switch the direction of rotation of the drill clockwise or counterclockwise). The chuck is best quick-clamping, you won’t have to waste time clamping drills and searching for a constantly lost key. The diameter of the drills clamped in the chuck is up to 12 mm.

The presence of the included function of drilling with impact. Of course, when this function is turned on, a drill will not become a full-fledged hammer drill, but drilling walls will be much easier and faster, and that's why. Brick, cement and concrete withstand static load - pressure - very well. But they are easily destroyed by dynamic influences - impact. Due to a strong blow, karatekas easily break the brick in two with the edge of the palm. When drilling with a drill without an impact function, there is a simple pressure of the drill and it is difficult for the cutting edge to catch on the material, so drilling is slow and the drill gets very hot due to friction. Drilling with impact is completely different. The drill, on impact, punctures a part of the material with its cutting edge, and, hitting with a blow into the formed recess, breaks off a portion of the material particles. There is something like chiseling.

Drill selection

Walls made of wood, drywall, foam concrete are successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. For walls made of brick, stone or concrete, you already need a carbide drill. It differs from steel by cutting edges made of carbide material welded onto a conventional drill, which usually wins. Rarely artificial diamond.

Pobedit insert is clearly visible at the end of the upper drill. It is enough to have 2 Pobeditovy drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.

Drills with victorious surfacing can drill a hole with a depth of no more than 10-15 cm. For drilling to a greater depth, for example, to drill a wall through, use a drill. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed for drilling holes only with a hammer drill. The drill even cutting edges are made not sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.

Drills come with a shank diameter of 10 and 18 mm, with special grooves of the SDS + or SDS-max standard for fastening, but they also clamp well in a conventional cam chuck. The standard and diameter of the drill are knocked out on its shank.

If you need to go through a thick wall with a drill, for example, half a meter, then the passage is performed in several stages with drills of the same diameter, but of different lengths. This is necessary for safety and faster drilling. First, the wall is drilled with a drill 20 cm long to a depth of 10-15 cm, then with a longer drill to a depth of 30-35 cm and drilling is completed with a drill 50 cm long. The drill for such work must be powerful enough. Of course, the drill is not designed for such a load and its use is permissible only in exceptional cases. It is better to perform this kind of work, rent a real hammer drill.

How to drill a wall

Before you start drilling a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that there are no holes in the plaster under the intended place. electric wires or other cables. Otherwise, you can damage the wiring and get yourself under voltage.

How not to get into the wire

It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch, socket. Usually in the vertical direction, wires go up from them to junction box. But verticality is the ideal case. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians, saving wire, often concealed wiring laid diagonally. Here's an example. When I was doing repairs and moving the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper, the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire leading to the meter was laid.

But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. From the chandelier, too, the wire will also depart to the nearest box.

Usually the wires are recessed to a depth of no more than 10 mm. To check with a rather blunt tool, for example, with a screwdriver, dig the wall to this depth. If no wires are found, then you can start drilling. And yet, just in case, up to a depth of 20 mm, you should not press hard on the drill and, after deepening for every couple of millimeters, visually check if the wire has caught.

There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of the passage of wires in the wall. Here are some of them not expensive, made in China, but, nevertheless, they work well. It also has a metal detector function, which allows you to identify the location of metal reinforcement in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper wiring with a drowning depth of up to 10 mm. Wiring made from aluminum wires, is determined only in the metal detector mode.

Detection of wiring is indicated by a flashing LED and an intermittent sound signal. In metal detector mode, the detection diode glows constantly and the sound emitted is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the finder is powered by a Kron type element. Such a device is especially necessary when installing suspended and stretch ceilings, since bearing structures mounted on self-tapping screws near the ceiling, just where electricians, as a rule, lay wiring.

Drilling holes in reinforced concrete

Brick walls are drilled with a Pobedite drill without much difficulty. We decided on the place, attached the jig and, pressing hard on the drill, drilled a hole. It happens that a burnt brick comes across in the wall, which is drilled more slowly, the dust is not red, but black. The main thing is to drill at low speeds (200 - 400) with the shock mode turned on, pressing harder on the handle of the drill, and make sure that the drill does not overheat.

I bring to your attention the largest video on which you can see how a brick wall is drilled using an ordinary drill with a hammer function and a drill with victorious overlays. A selection was made in the brick wall for a box to install an internal electrical outlet.

As you can see, drilling a brick is not at all difficult. Be careful, the drill during long drilling heats up to high temperature and touching it can result in severe burns. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill into water.

Unless the concrete wall or ceiling is 600 or 500 cement, it drills just as well as brick. In domestic construction, only cement grade 400 is used. In houses old building sometimes there are columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete. They drill very hard and take a long time.

in the manufacture of concrete blocks and wall panels for strength, iron fittings welded together mutually perpendicularly are mounted in them, which are corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, and crushed granite is added. A Pobedit drill cannot overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, during drilling, the drill suddenly stopped deepening, it means that it stumbled upon rebar or granite. The reinforcement is successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you didn’t have a simple drill at hand and it’s permissible to move the hole, then you can move diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble from blows to a drill or a narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each impact, so that the tool does not jam in concrete and the work goes faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter of a turn. After removing the obstruction, drilling continues with a winning drill. For a drill with a perforator, granite pebbles are not an obstacle and are successfully drilled.

Drilling tiles

For drilling in tiles with a carbide-tipped drill not specifically designed for tiles, the glaze must first be removed after marking the drilling point.

This is done very simply, with a core, and in case of its absence, you can use an ordinary self-tapping screw or even a thick nail with a sharp end to chip off the glaze in the place of the future hole with very light blows and then drill as brick wall at low speeds.

Drilling large holes in the wall

When equipped ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a large diameter hole in the wall, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide an electric meter in the wall, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.

At home, this problem can be solved with a carbide drill. With a pencil, the contour of the future hole is outlined on the wall. From the outside of the marking line, holes are drilled with a carbide drill with a diameter of 8-12 mm with a distance between the edges of the holes of about 10 mm. For a hole in the wall with a diameter of 18 cm, you will need to perform about 30 drillings with a drill diameter of 10 mm. Next, the wall material is sampled using a chisel and a hammer. With a smaller drill diameter, the edges of the hole will turn out to be more accurate, but more holes will have to be drilled.

If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not enough to get through drilling, then in this case it is possible to drill in two stages.

If it is possible to drill a wall from two sides, then drilling is first performed, as described above, on one side of the wall, then a hole is drilled in the wall in the geometric center of the resulting sample, that is, through. Relative to the resulting hole, marking is performed on the opposite side of the wall and the operation is repeated.

If it is not possible to drill a thick wall on both sides, then drilling and sampling will have to be done in two stages. Another line is drawn from the marking line from the outside, at a distance sufficient so that after the first selection in the wall and further drilling, the drill can go deep into the niche made without touching the edges of the wall.

To reduce the complexity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.

Drilling depth gauge

To control the depth of the resulting hole during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tubes) of the required length on the drill bit of the drill until it stops in the chuck.

If you didn’t have a suitable cambric at hand and you need to drill a small number of holes, then you can use ordinary PVC insulating tape by winding a few turns of it. This simple tool will speed up your work and save you from having to stop drilling to measure the depth of the hole.

Dust free drilling jig

Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially those made of brick, the drill often “leads” away from the intended place, and if there are more than one hole, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or even worse, it cannot be hung, since the installed dowels do not match the mounting ones. loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling from vibration, it can also move and again the result will not be what was expected. But there is simple technology, which allows you to drill two or more holes strictly in the specified places.

Precise hole drilling

It turns out that the problem can be solved very simply by gluing a sheet of any sandpaper with glue or two-sided tape over the entire area of the side of the conductor, which is applied to the wall. At the same time, the grip of the conductor with the wall surface increases many times over and, when drilling, the specified accuracy of the positioning of the drill is ensured. The hole will turn out exactly at the markup.

Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, it is necessary to drill holes for the dowels different diameter, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the conductor, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.

To top it off, attach the plate at a right angle to the end of the base of the conductor. Thanks to this refinement, most of the drilling products will remain on this shelf, which will prevent wallpaper contamination and reduce dust scattering in all directions.

The proposed fixture is also indispensable for drilling holes for fixing skirting boards. Drill a hole in the conductor at a given height from the shelf. When drilling, put the shelf on the floor and you will get all the holes exactly at the right height from the floor, which will guarantee a snug fit of the skirting board to the floor surface.

Sometimes you have to hang a product on the wall, for which you need to drill several holes in the wall and maintain the distance between them with greater accuracy. If the wall is brick and plastered, then it is impossible to perform accurate drilling without a conductor.

For the manufacture of a jig for precision drilling, a board, a sheet of plywood or metal is suitable. After marking, the required number of holes is drilled in the sheet with an ordinary drill. Consider the case for fixing the product with two screws. One hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill with which the wall will be drilled, the second, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. After the jig is made, the first hole is drilled in the wall with the help of the jig, for the exact drilling described earlier, and a dowel is driven into the hole.

A jig is screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw in a hammered dowel, leveled with a water levelso that the drilled holes are on the same horizontal line.

Thanks to the use of the simplest conductor, which can be made in a few minutes from any material at hand, the holes were obtained exactly at a given distance from each other.

Using the same technology, it is possible to drill a number of holes at a greater distance from each other. In this case, the extreme holes are first drilled according to the technology described above, the conductor is screwed with two extreme self-tapping screws, and then all the other holes are checked.

The proposed options for conductors are convenient when repairing an apartment, when dirt is a common thing everywhere.
However, when the repair is completed and clean, drilling becomes stressful. I don’t want to stain carpets and furniture with concrete or brick chips and dust at all.

Dust free drilling

During the drilling of walls, especially the ceiling, flour and grains of sand from the drilled material scatter throughout the room. This is because an impeller is installed inside the drill to cool the engine, which, rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and ejects it heated in the cartridge area. This measure allows, with small dimensions, to make a drill of greater power and protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust when drilling is left to the owner to decide. I represent simple design allowing dust-free drilling.

The dust-free drilling jig is a modified previous version, but the shelf is replaced by a part cut off from plastic bottle. A piece of 9 - 11 ply plywood is cut with a size of 80 × 150 mm, a hole is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm. From the side to be pasted sandpaper, a trapezoidal sample is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake when drilling.

A part is cut off from the plastic bottle so that the rest can be fixed on the jig. The width of the base of the jig is chosen based on the size of the bottle. I took a square bottle, but any 1.5 liter bottle will do. An electrical tape is wound around the threaded part of the neck of the bottle until a size equal to the inner diameter of the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner is obtained. When the bottle is bent, holes are formed to form the desired configuration. We close them with pieces of the remaining plastic from the bottle and fix them with a stationery stapler. You can cover them with tape. There is no need for tightness. Gaps of a few millimeters will not play a role, since the suction force of even a low-powered vacuum cleaner is excessive.

Then using furniture stapler, along the perimeter of the end of the base of the conductor, from the side where the sandpaper is not glued, the formed part of the bottle is fixed. In the bottle we make a hole for the drill. It is better to use the melting method, as the edges forming the hole will become thicker and will last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. It is possible to melt a hole heated on gas stove until red with a nail.

We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, do a test drilling.

The result will make you very happy. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle, nor brick flour on the drilling surface!

How to drill a wall

Drill selection

When buying an electric drill, you need to be guided by the following technical specifications.

Drill selection

Pobedit insert is clearly visible at the end of the upper drill. It is enough to have 2 Pobeditovy drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.

Drills with victorious surfacing can drill a hole with a depth of no more than 10-15 cm. For drilling to a greater depth, for example, to drill a wall through, use a drill. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed for drilling holes only with a hammer drill. At the drill, even the cutting edges are not made sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.

How to drill a wall

Before you start drilling a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that there are no electrical wires or other cables running under the intended place in the plaster. Otherwise, you can damage the wiring and get yourself under voltage.

How not to get into the wire

It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch, socket. Usually in the vertical direction, wires go up from them to the junction box. But verticality is the ideal case. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians, saving wire, often hidden wiring is laid diagonally. Here's an example. When I was doing repairs and moving the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper, the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire leading to the meter was laid.

But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. From the chandelier, too, the wire will also depart to the nearest box.

There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of the passage of wires in the wall. Here are some of them not expensive, made in China, but, nevertheless, they work well. It also has a metal detector function, which allows you to identify the location of metal reinforcement in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper wiring with a drowning depth of up to 10 mm. Electrical wiring made of aluminum wires is detected only in metal detector mode.

Detection of wiring is indicated by a flashing LED and an intermittent sound signal. In metal detector mode, the detection diode glows constantly and the sound emitted is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the finder is powered by a Kron type element. Such a device is especially necessary when installing suspended and stretch ceilings, since the supporting structures are mounted on self-tapping screws near the ceiling, just where electricians usually lay wiring.

Drilling holes in reinforced concrete

As you can see, drilling a brick is not at all difficult. Be careful, the drill during long drilling heats up to a high temperature and touching it can result in severe burns. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill into water.

Unless the concrete wall or ceiling is 600 or 500 cement, it drills just as well as brick. In domestic construction, only cement grade 400 is used. In old-built houses, columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete are sometimes found. They drill very hard and take a long time.

In the manufacture of concrete blocks and wall panels, for strength, iron reinforcement welded together perpendicularly to each other, which is corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, is mounted in them, and crushed granite is added. A Pobedit drill cannot overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, during drilling, the drill suddenly stopped deepening, it means that it stumbled upon rebar or granite. The reinforcement is successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you didn’t have a simple drill at hand and it’s permissible to move the hole, then you can move diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble from blows to a drill or a narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each impact, so that the tool does not jam in concrete and the work goes faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter of a turn. After removing the obstruction, drilling continues with a winning drill. For a drill with a perforator, granite pebbles are not an obstacle and are successfully drilled.

Drilling tiles

For drilling in tiles with a carbide-tipped drill not specifically designed for tiles, the glaze must first be removed after marking the drilling point.

Drilling large holes in the wall

When equipping ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a large diameter hole in the wall, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide an electric meter in the wall, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.

If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not enough to get through drilling, then in this case it is possible to drill in two stages.

To reduce the complexity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.

Drilling depth gauge

To control the depth of the resulting hole during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tubes) of the required length on the drill bit of the drill until it stops in the chuck.

Dust free drilling jig

Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially those made of brick, the drill often “leads” away from the intended place, and if there are more than one hole, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or even worse, it cannot be hung, since the installed dowels do not match the mounting ones. loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling from vibration, it can also move and again the result will not be what was expected. But there is a simple technology that allows you to drill two or more holes strictly in the specified places.

Precise hole drilling

Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, it is necessary to drill holes for dowels of different diameters, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the conductor, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.

A jig is screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw in a hammered dowel, leveled with a water levelso that the drilled holes are on the same horizontal line.

Thanks to the use of the simplest conductor, which can be made in a few minutes from any material at hand, the holes were obtained exactly at a given distance from each other.

Dust free drilling

During the drilling of walls, especially the ceiling, flour and grains of sand from the drilled material scatter throughout the room. This is because an impeller is installed inside the drill to cool the engine, which, rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and ejects it heated in the cartridge area. This measure allows, with small dimensions, to make a drill of greater power and protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust when drilling is left to the owner to decide. I present a simple design that allows you to drill without dust.

The dust-free drilling jig is a modified version of the previous version, but the shelf has been replaced with a part cut off from a plastic bottle. A piece of 9 - 11 ply plywood is cut with a size of 80 × 150 mm, a hole is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm. From the side on which the sandpaper will be glued, a trapezoidal sample is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake when drilling.

Then, using a furniture stapler, along the perimeter of the end of the base of the jig, from the side where sandpaper is not glued, the formed part of the bottle is fixed. In the bottle we make a hole for the drill. It is better to use the melting method, as the edges forming the hole will become thicker and will last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. You can melt the hole with a nail heated to red on a gas stove.

We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, do a test drilling.

The result will make you very happy. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle, nor brick flour on the drilling surface!