August 27, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

No one doubts that an electrician in the bathroom is necessary. After all, this is not only light, but also a working washing machine, razor, hair dryer and more exotic devices. However, few people know how to wire the wires with their own hands so that they do not lose their lives later. Or, at least, consciousness.

This happened to my relative from Krasnoyarsk. After finishing the renovation in the bathroom, he decided to please his wife and bought a washing machine. But the socket to which it is connected was not in the room (well, he did not think about it in advance).

As a result of his inept actions - knocked out machine guns, blown fuses in the washer and an ugly black spot soot on tiles. Well, convulsive calls to me with a request to conduct an educational program on how to properly make an outlet and a switch in the bathroom.

It's good that everything ended well. But to you, my readers, I do not advise you to make sockets in sanitary facilities by trial and error. Below is an instruction, strictly following which, you will construct a safe and reliable engineering network in the bathroom.

Specifications and Features

To begin with, I want to note, although it is obvious that the bathroom is a room with a specific microclimate, which is characterized high humidity and significant temperature fluctuations. And sometimes the presence of a large amount of water on the floor.

Therefore, to electrical wiring and the devices that are installed in it are subject to increased safety requirements. And regardless of whether you perform the installation yourself or entrust this work to specialists.

The situation is further aggravated by the fact that in modern plumbing blocks there are many more electrical appliances than when I first started working as a builder. Moreover, many of them are powerful, which requires more larger section.

However, the fact remains that instead of complaining about the difficulties, you can simply make the wiring that meets the requirements that I will discuss in the next section.

Current safety standards

Technical requirements for electrical networks are fixed building codes and rules numbered 3.05.06-85 and GOST Russia 50571.11.

These documents indicate that specific specifications electrical wiring and sockets in the bathroom are determined by the type of electrical appliances used.

In addition, there is a rule according to which it is recommended to make the wiring in the plumbing room hidden. This does not mean that it cannot be done on top. However, in the latter case, one has to take additional measures to ensure the safety of people in the room.

It is very important to choose the right cross-section of cables, the method of their insulation and the number of cores. I recommend that even before starting the repair in the bathroom, make a project of the electrical system, indicating all the connection points and wires, which then show to an experienced electrician. It will help identify bottlenecks and shortcomings even before you start working on the project.

Basic installation rules

If you don’t have the phone number of an experienced electrician, or at least someone like me, I’ll give you some tips to help you make electrical wiring in the bathroom in compliance with all safety rules:

1. Choose the right cable. To do this, you need to calculate the power of all electrical appliances in the room, and then select the desired wire according to the following list:

• cable with a cross section of 1.4 sq. mm can withstand 4.1kw;
• cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm can withstand 5.9kw;
• cable with a cross section of 4 sq. mm can withstand 8.3 kW.

More, I think, you are unlikely to need if you are not going to mount an electric sauna.

I like the three-wire the best copper cable(Although the price is quite high). However, if your residential electrical network is made of aluminum cable, do not take copper. These two metals will oxidize at the junction.

1. Wiring must have a separate wire for grounding. Although, to be honest, I recommend doing such wiring throughout the apartment. And then one time something happens in the house and almost everything burns down in you electrical devices.

1. The junction box where the wires are connected must be done outside the plumbing room. I always mount the box between the bathroom and the toilet, it is more convenient to connect forced ventilation systems.

1. Personally, I still recommend laying the wires covertly. This is both safer and does not spoil the interior of the bathroom. But do not forget that it is possible to brick electrical cables into the wall only in a protective corrugated casing.

1. To avoid defeat electric shock it is necessary to use the RCD(safety shutdown device). This unit turns off the electricity supply to the bathroom in the event of an emergency.

Now I will not talk about the normatively fixed requirements, but about the tips and recommendations that have been developed over the years of practice. I think they will be useful if you are going to mount the electrical network in the bathroom:

1. It is very important to choose the right location of outlets in the bathroom. You can’t put them too low on the floor, otherwise water can get there and cause a short circuit.
2. All sockets through which electrical appliances will be connected must be located at a distance of at least 60 cm from the shower cabin.

1. All sockets must have a grounding contact, to which the third (grounding, it has a yellow-green color) core is connected. Naturally, you need to take care of the purchase and installation of such a wire in advance.

If the socket is needed only for connecting, for example, a razor (not washing machine), and you live in an old house where a ground wire is not provided at all, you can use an isolation transformer.

1. No need to put sockets on cold walls, where water vapor dissolved in the air often condenses. In any case, it is necessary to take connection points protected from water by additional sealing gaskets and covers. Their cost is somewhat higher, but I would not advise saving on your own safety.

Do-it-yourself installation of sockets

I kind of described the main requirements to you. Now I’ll talk about how to conduct electricity to the bathroom, that is, mount an outlet for a washing machine or other device of similar power.

Installing a new outlet

To begin with, instructions for those who are thinking about wiring before starting decorative finishes. Therefore, he has the opportunity to gouge the walls, lay the wire in them and install as many connection points for electrical appliances as he wants (naturally, you need to take care of the presence of a cable of the desired section).

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First, draw a sketch of the future wiring. Immediately on it, I usually indicate the cross section of the wires to be laid and the location of the sockets and switches. It is better to make a few more outlets so that later there is no temptation to insert a tee or extension cord.

By the way, you can draw a sketch not only on paper, but also immediately on the walls. To do this, I use a black marker, which then serves as a guide for cutting the strobe.

1. Having finished with the design, I turn to shtroblenie. To do this, I have a special device - a wall chaser. You can not buy it, but rent it at a hardware store.
   In extreme cases, you can use the grinder. Make two parallel grooves with a cutting disc, and knock out the excess concrete between them with a perforator with a chisel.

1. After I drill recesses for the installation of glasses for switches and sockets. Again, I have a special diamond crown for drilling mineral surfaces, which I use.

You can also do the following:

• attach plastic cup for the outlet to the wall and circle it with a marker;
• drill along the line a large number of holes;
• knock out the concrete inside with a puncher.

1. The next step is cable laying. It should be routed in a corrugated plastic casing, which provides additional security.

Let me just say a few words about the connections:

• use cables in which each strand is a single wire (not many small ones);
• connect cables not with twists, but with spikes, which are more reliable;
• connect all electrical system bathroom with a similar engineering network apartments through a separate machine (so that when short circuit do not deprive the whole dwelling of light);
• after circuit breaker you need to install a residual current device, the value of which is less than the value of the machine (I recommend using an RCD with a trip current of 10 milliamps);
• provide a separate cable for the fan, which will allow you to install an exhaust unit with a humidity indicator or a timer (that is, make it independent of the light switch).

1. After finishing everything installation work and having tested the system for operability in all modes (the presence of current in the sockets can be checked with an indicator screwdriver), you can begin to seal the strobe.

Installing an additional socket

Now the second option is to install the outlet. This is when you have already completed the renovation in the bathroom, and only then you think about where you will need to connect the washing machine (well, or when the renovation is still in the plans).

The most enterprising will say that in this case there is nothing easier than connecting the washer to the mains using an extension cord. I will answer that this method is not only inefficient and inconvenient (the door to the bathroom will not close), but also dangerous.

This raises the problem of safety, that is, protecting people in the bathroom from electric shock. To protect your loved ones from trouble, you need to do:

• a branch with grounding, which is carried out from the nearest junction box;
• branch with separating transformer.

In no case do not throw the "earth" on metal pipes heating and other similar items. And be sure to install a residual current device.

Output

Connecting all the wires, sockets and switches together is easy. But it is important to do it right, otherwise not only washing machine but also your loved ones. And this is already very serious.

And I would like to know what kind of electrical appliances you use in the bathroom and how they are connected to electrical network. You can tell about it in the comments to the material.

As for other aspects of repairing the bathroom and toilet, they are covered in the video in this article.

August 27, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Warm summer greetings to all from Taganrog!

In my new article, we will consider the issues of replacing the socket block with an old-style double switch, which was previously installed in all panel “Khrushchev” houses. Replacement will be carried out with a new block of switches with a socket under one frame.

As usual, there will be many photos, a wiring diagram, recommendations for mounting and connecting this device.

How this miracle of Soviet design and technology looks like is shown in the photo on the left.

Such a block consists of one socket (naturally, without grounding) and two or three switch keys. Switches turn on the lights in the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen.

In principle, the idea is not bad, but over time, all this becomes unusable, because these switches are used in the apartment much more often than all the others put together.

Wiring diagram for switches with a socket in one block

The scheme is generally simple, but I will give it.

Subscribe! It will be interesting.

The following wires come to the replaced unit: phase, zero, and two wires “leave” to power the bathroom and toilet lamps. The phase is used to power the socket and switches. Zero - only for the outlet.

Wiring diagram for switches with a socket

Strictly speaking, when installing electrical wiring, lighting groups are usually separated. That is, different power wires with should go to the switches and sockets, and turn off at the same time different in the switchboard. But they did it before, out of poverty.

Dismantling the old block

Almost every day you have to deal with the concept of "PIPETS". Another pipets - at the end of the article.

So, we remove the cover, we see:

What do we see? Everything is shattered and shattered, the two upper switches are in a completely dead state, the third one is not connected, and according to the hostess, it never worked. The socket is more or less compared to them, given that in such a place it is hardly used.

The panel house is 40 years old. Turn on the lights in the kitchen and bathroom at least 10 times a day. 40x365x10=146 thousand times. They did a good job.

At this stage, we understand the wires, check where the phase is, and turn off the power. In this case, you must have a headlamp, without it in any way.

We take out the insides. The main thing is not to break off the wires and notice where everything goes.

3. We take out all the insides - old socket, switches, metal box

The bad ends that went to the switches had to be cut off - they were still short.

The two bottom wires go to the outlet. On the left - zero, on the right - the phase, which in the old days electricians designated with black rag tape (there was no other, there were no markers either).

It is worth saying that for some reason the antique metal installation box is fastened with tin as tightly. It is fastened with some screws with nuts, which must be scrolled. I changed such blocks more than once, and each time tearing out this box is a torment. I use powerful pliers, a large flat screwdriver.

4. This will never be useful to anyone again. Thank you for your service!

Installing a new switch block with socket

Here is what is best to use in such cases:

Also, to install a block from a socket and a switch, you need a double frame, it did not get into the frame. On recent photos she will, I promise.

And what's fresh in the VK group SamElectric.ru ?

Subscribe and read the article further:

Switches and sockets in recent times I use only Turkish, most often VI-KO. They are the best in price / quality, and very easy to install. The photo shows the VIKO Carmen model, their design is a bit old. And finishers do not like them for their rounded shape. In this sense, VIKO Karre is better - they have modern design and they are perfectly rectangular in shape.

Sockets Karre - television and power under a triple frame. Photo from the article

There are ready-made solid blocks for just such purposes, where a socket and a double switch are combined in one housing. Productions of Belarus, and Russia. Very uncomfortable, bad, clumsy. I DO NOT RECOMMEND.

Box - specially for two installation places, one-piece. It is better to use it than two separate ones with a jumper.

Installing the junction box. We have to cut out part of the upper side in order to minimally bend the old aluminum.

At the bottom, you have to chisel a little so that the box is flush with the wall:

Next comes the longest, dirtiest and most unpleasant. We work with alabaster or gypsum putty, use a spatula and preferably a level. After that, you can relax - smoke or (in my case) ask the hosts to pour tea.

Now we use pieces of copper wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 and, which help out a lot.

It is important that in order for this whole structure to stand for many years (up to), it is necessary to protect it electrically correctly. The current of the circuit breaker in this case should be no more than 16 A, and preferably 13 or even 10 Amperes. I have already written in detail about the choice of a circuit breaker (circuit breaker) more than once,.

We work from below.

9. We connect and install the socket first

I use Vago's double terminals for extending the wires to the switch, the quadruple for phase distribution, I managed to fasten zero directly to the socket, the length allowed.

We fix the socket with screws in the box. I already wrote, who did not read - I highly recommend. We don’t tighten it much, but you can ignore the spacer ears at all and even throw them away.

Install and connect the switch according to the wiring diagram. Securely and evenly fix the entire structure with self-tapping screws.

10.Socket and switch connected and installed. See the gap between the socket and the double switch? It should be 0.5-1 mm wide, and the same along the entire length.

The case is drawing to a close. A few smart moves...

11. Dressing a double frame

And the installation of the socket block with the switch is finished!

12. Block socket and switch on the bathroom installed

That's basically it. If something is not clear or there is something to add - ask and write in the comments. If you are interested in what I will publish on the SamElectric blog next - subscribe to receive new articles.

Update from 26 Apr. 2014: Here's another "kick": a switch for two rooms. This is an apartment in the old district of Taganrog, and this does not happen there (for example, two phases in an apartment, because between the phases - 220V, not 380) - there was one room, there were two. But the switch remains...

If there are questions, how to connect the block double switch with a socket - please contact us in the comments!

If you notice.

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Switch connection bath toilet kitchen with socket

Switch block for bathroom and toilet

How much does piping cost? Replacing water pipes in an apartment, replacing pipes in a bathroom, the price for installing plumbing in apartments in Moscow and the Moscow Region. Qualified specialists of our company perform the entire range of plumbing work related to the installation and replacement of water pipes in apartments in Moscow and the Moscow region. Water distribution of apartments can be done different ways. Collector or serial water distribution scheme, or you can apply a combined series-collector scheme. And the laying of plumbing and sewer pipes mount open or hidden wiring method. The collectors are equipped with taps, which is very convenient, so each output can be blocked independently of the others, which makes it possible, if necessary, to easily and quickly shut off the water supply selectively to the required plumbing fixture in the bathroom without turning off the rest. All pipe / manifold connections are located in the bathroom very compactly and in one place. The installation of such a water supply system is more expensive and is usually carried out in a hidden way pipe laying. Hidden laying of pipes for the water supply of the apartment. This method of distributing water pipes allows it to be carried out concealed installation in wall strobes, a box, a niche, a channel, a floor screed and drywall constructions. The distribution of water supply pipes mounted in this way is more practical, which generally improves internal design bathroom, toilet, kitchen through which the water supply system of the apartment is usually laid. Prices for the installation of water supply for an apartment (without the cost of material) We offer you the following most common options for distributing water supply for bathrooms in apartments, we conditionally divided them into three main classes: economy, standard and luxury. How much does piping cost?

Everyone says that only we are the best and give a bunch of arguments. supposedly the company will do and disappear, and we have been working for 30 years. They say the same in the zhek...

Switch box with socket for bathroom

Such a failure, I changed the block: socket, three switches (well, standard) to the block: socket, 2 double switches, bathroom toilet kitchen, and lighting device…

AT panel houses three-gang switches with a socket are widely used. They stand in the corridor and control the light in three rooms - a kitchen, a bathroom and a bathroom. The socket here is provided for various household needs, for example, to turn on the vacuum cleaner, razor, hair dryer, etc. A lot of time has passed since they were installed and today they require replacement. It is not difficult to buy such three-gang switches with a socket, but not everyone can figure out how to connect it. In this article, I analyze in detail the connection diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket, with which you can do everything yourself.

Before starting all work, be sure to de-energize the apartment or this line. Safety is paramount.

During the dismantling of the old unit, remember, or rather, sign all the wires that you will disconnect. This will allow you to quickly figure out which wire goes where. In a nutshell about wires - the meaning here is this:

• from the junction box to the switch block, one two-wire wire fits and is connected to the socket contacts;
• from this socket from the "phase" contact there is a jumper to the common contact of the switch block (this is the only black wire in the figure below);
• from the other contacts of the switch block, three phase conductors go to the lamps.

I think these explanations are not enough, so I sketched a connection diagram for a three-gang switch with a socket, where I painted everything in detail. Here you pay attention to the drawn lines and do not particularly pay attention to the bunch of wires in the block, since amateur performance is induced here and the owners of the apartment have powered another outlet. See below...

In the photo above, a plastic box from a new three-gang switch with a socket is already mounted in the wall. It exactly fits into the grooved recess from the old switch. It can be planted on plaster, or it can be attached with dowels. Here the choice is yours.

Below is a photo without my art. This unit is in the apartment of one family of pensioners. The wiring here is old and they did not want to change it in any case. Part of the wires was broken and they were extended through single terminal blocks. Next, we see the yellow-green wiring - this is the "zero" conductor that goes to the outlet mounted in the kitchen (this is already an amateur performance of some electrician).

The switches themselves are already put in place below. In fact, they can not be removed, since there is still access to the contact bolts.

I removed them out of curiosity...

Now we put the body in place. It is attached with three bolts.

Setting up a side key...

Now another side key...

At the final stage, we put the middle key. That's all the three-gang switch with a socket is ready for operation. In order to disassemble it and get to the contacts, you need to follow the steps in reverse order described here.

If these explanations are not enough for you, then read new material supplementing this article: Supplement to the article "Scheme for connecting a three-gang switch with a socket" . Here I consider two different schemes connection of such a block and give detailed explanations.

Let's smile:

Physics teacher - Vovochka:
What happens if you insert a magnet into a coil and take it back out?
- An induction current occurs in the circuit.
- Right! What if it takes a long time?
- An electrician can be born.

Replacement building block switches

Many in the apartments still have electrical switches old-style combined with a socket. Such switches were mainly installed to control the light of the kitchen, toilet and bathroom ...

The proposed range of replacement circuit breaker blocks according to standard sizes not large and limited to a few species.
It is easier to replace the standard old box in the wall with a modern one, where you can put a separate switch and socket, or as in the photo, where there are two switches and a socket.

Remember! Work under voltage is life-threatening! If you do not have the necessary qualifications, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist.

To replace the switch box, you will need the following materials
1. Box for switches and sockets.
2. New switches and socket
3. Gypsum plaster or alabaster

Required Tools
1. Screwdrivers
2. Spatula
3. Perforator (preferably with chiseling mode)
4. Capacity for diluting the solution
5. Phase probe

The box should not be very deep so that the seat in the wall needs to be deepened as little as possible, when buying sockets, make sure that they fit freely in the box and will not interfere with each other.

Before starting work, it is necessary to de-energize the entire block of switches by turning off circuit breakers in the central panel, after which we dismantle the unit by first removing the keys (on the old-style switch, they are removed by pulling the key towards itself and then moving it upwards), and then releasing the screws securing the wires.

We unscrew the socket itself and the switches, disconnect the wires, after remembering which wire should go where. Having taken out the switch block, we dismantle the metal box of the switch block.

After dismantling the old block with the box, we bend the wires to the side, mark out a new seat, and with a puncher very carefully lengthen the socket under new box.

As mentioned earlier, it is better to use a hammer drill with a chisel mode. If the puncher only allows drilling, then you can gradually expand the space under the box, carefully drilling and chipping off the concrete in a small fragment.

We must not forget that the block is usually located on a thin wall of a bathroom or toilet, so you need to be very careful to lengthen and deepen the nest so as not to break through the wall.

It is advisable to remove the wallpaper around the socket for the outlet, as it may be necessary to putty the wall around the box.
After expanding and deepening the seat under the box, it is necessary to thoroughly sweep the dust before cementing and moisten the nest in the wall, for this it is convenient to use an ordinary paint brush.

Wires are inserted into the box, and the box is installed in its place. Having diluted a little solution ( gypsum plaster or alabaster), we fill the gaps around the box with a spatula, try to keep the box upright, the box should not protrude from the wall and should stand straight.

Gypsum plaster seizes more slowly than gypsum or alabaster in its pure form, after the solution dries, you can install new switches and a socket in the box.

When performing work, do not forget to follow the safety precautions for working with electricity, work only after turning off the power and checking for the absence of a phase using a tester or a special probe.

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