Honeysuckle honeysuckle propagation. Honeysuckle honeysuckle planting and care in the Moscow region

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a shrub of the Honeysuckle family, found in the wild in southern Europe and the Caucasus. This fragrant vine can be found on the edges and in forests, as well as in well-lit places with moist soil. At home, the variety performs a purely decorative function; it is used only to decorate the site. The bush is often used for vertical wall decoration, hiding unattractive structures in the garden.

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Description

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a climbing shrub that can reach a height of up to 6 meters. Its young shoots are light green and turn brown with age. The leaves are broadly elliptical, opposite, up to 10 cm long, the upper side is dark green, the lower side is glaucous.

Several pairs of upper leaves can grow together at their bases, forming an elliptical blade. Fragrant flowers are presented in inflorescences on rather long tubes and collected in whorls. Flowering lasts up to three weeks, with the life cycle of an individual flower being about 4 days. The red or orange inedible berries ripen in late July or early August. At good care the bush can live more than 50 years.

Reproduction

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is propagated in the following ways:

dividing the bush;
seeds;
layering;
cuttings.

Seeds

Propagation by seeds is a long process. They germinate very difficult and must be stratified. Seeds should be collected after flowering and seed ripening. They are sown directly into the ground or put in the refrigerator for storage. They must be stored in damp sand. This is how seed stratification is carried out. It is imperative to ensure that they are wet at all times. If sowing is carried out directly into the ground, then seed stratification is carried out in the ground.

Sowing seeds from the refrigerator is carried out in the spring. They are planted in prepared beds along with sand. The emerging shoots are carefully weeded, watered and loosened. The place for seedlings should be shaded so that the sun's rays do not burn them.

On permanent place young plants are replanted in the fall. At first, the bushes are covered for the winter with a layer of mulch - leaves, peat, humus. After 2 years, the vine grows to 1.5–2 meters and is already able to winter on its own, without additional shelter.

Cuttings

Cuttings should be taken at the end of flowering. They should have 2-3 buds, the lower leaves should be removed, and the upper leaves should be shortened by half. The soil for rooting should be loose, as well as water- and breathable. It is prepared from garden soil, compost, humus and sand, which are taken in equal quantities and mixed.

For better results, it is recommended to dip the cuttings in Kornevin powder, after which they are planted in rows in prepared beds, watered and covered with film, creating a greenhouse. It is also recommended to regularly ventilate and spray them. After a month, new leaves appear on the cuttings and the shelter can be removed.

In winter, the cuttings are covered with leaves or peat, otherwise they will freeze. In the spring they are planted in a permanent place. To form additional roots when planting, the root collar is slightly deepened. If the cuttings are not further processed, then only 50% of the total will take root.

Rooting by layering

Rooting by layering is the most in a simple way reproduction, but for this they use only mature strong plants that have many new shoots. They select a shoot located near the ground, bend it down and pin it to the ground. Sprinkle it with earth and water it.

If this procedure is carried out in the spring, then by autumn a new shoot with roots appears. It is separated and planted in a permanent place.

Dividing the bush

This method of propagation involves digging up the base of the bush and cutting off part of the rhizome with branches with a sharp shovel. The cut is sprinkled with coal, dried and planted on the prepared area.

You can also completely dig up the entire bush and use a sharp shovel to divide it into parts. All cuts are sprinkled with crushed coal.

Choosing a landing site

Honeysuckle honeysuckle requires careful selection of the planting site:

The shrub loves abundant moisture and gets sick from its lack. Therefore, it must be planted in fertile and loose soil, avoiding areas with excessively dry soil.
Honeysuckle loves sunlight. It blooms well in a lighted place, and in a dark place it sprouts.
In order for a shrub to develop normally, it needs support. In this case, its branches will grow upward. The support can be a vertical surface, the wall of a gazebo or house, or any wooden or metal support.

For the plant you need to choose sandy or loamy soil. If this is not possible, then acidic peat or wet limestone soils are suitable as a substrate.

Landing

To plant honeysuckle honeysuckle, you should dig a hole measuring 50 x 50 x 50 cm. If you plan to design a hedge, then make a trench 0.5 m wide and deep. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom. It should consist of crushed stone, ceramic tiles or broken bricks. To prevent the bush from being damaged by diseases, the soil must be prepared before planting. To do this, the soil is mixed with various fertilizers of organic and mineral origin. It is best to use manure and peat. The soil with fertilizers is dug up 2 weeks before planting.

After this, the seedling is transferred to the prepared hole and dug in, leaving the root collar 5 cm higher than the soil surface. Water the bush abundantly, when the water is completely absorbed, sprinkle trunk circle mulching material: humus, sawdust or peat.

If the plant is planted in a hole, then it grows as a bush, and if in a trench, it grows into a continuous green hedge. In one year, a climbing shrub can rise 2 meters, so supports must be dug in for it.

Care

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is undemanding in care. It only needs to be periodically fed, watered and pruned.

The plant must be fed regularly. In order for it to grow well, it needs a large number of minerals. It is important to feed the vine directly during flowering. In order for its flowers to delight with their beauty for a long time, you need to apply liquid fertilizer immediately after planting. In autumn and winter, wood ash is poured under the bush.

In dry weather, honeysuckle should be watered 2 times a week. This strengthens the roots after planting and provides them with proper care. The rest of the time, watering is carried out once a week. Do not allow water to stagnate in the soil. After each watering or rain, the soil under the bush needs to be loosened, while weeding. If the area is mulched with humus or peat, then the need for weeding and frequent loosening is reduced.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a climbing vine that is used for vertical gardening. When it reaches the required height, its tops are pinched to stimulate the appearance of side shoots. Subsequently, formative pruning is carried out, thanks to which abundant flowering is achieved.

Pruning of honeysuckle is carried out in the spring, after the appearance of young buds. They appear from hidden places on the shoots. Swollen buds are the main sign of a healthy shoot. If the shoot remains bare above the swollen bud, then this part is removed.

The first pruning is carried out immediately after planting the seedling in a permanent place. All weak shoots are removed from a young bush, leaving only the strongest ones in the amount of 3-4 pieces. The remaining stems should be shortened by one third of their length. In the future, it is recommended to prune the shrub every 5 years, getting rid of only dry and damaged branches, since the main purpose of pruning is to give honeysuckle beautiful shape and rejuvenation. If the bushes are very neglected and have a thickened crown, then all old stems are cut off slightly above their base.

Transfer

Caring for honeysuckle honeysuckle involves timely transplanting the plant to a new location. Its main advantage is that not only young shoots, but also adult bushes have a high survival rate. This is usually done after the first light frosts - in the second half of September.

When transplanting an adult plant, consider the following rules:

Root damage should not be allowed. To do this, the bushes are carefully dug up and, together with the earthen ball, are transferred to a new place.
The new planting hole should be slightly larger than the previous one.
The walls and bottom of the pit must be loosened with a pitchfork.
It is not recommended to bury the bush. This should be done if the soil is light and well cultivated. A depth of 3–5 cm is allowed.
The soil filling the hole must be fertile and mixed with humus.

Preparing for winter

Adult shrubs of the honeysuckle species honeysuckle do not insulate for the winter. It is recommended to do this with varietal, hybrid and recently planted plants. To do this, the tree trunk circle is insulated with a thick layer of fallen leaves. In preparation for winter, the lashes are removed from the support, rolled into a ring and laid on a bed of dry leaves. The plant is covered non-woven material or spruce paws.

In this form, honeysuckle can survive the most severe cold. Sometimes some annual shoots freeze slightly, so they are pruned in the spring, as a result of which the bush quickly recovers. This method of covering for the winter is also used for other decorative vines.

Diseases

Although honeysuckle honeysuckle is resistant to diseases and pests, sometimes they can affect it. The shrub may develop powdery mildew, which covers the leaves with a whitish coating. As a result, the leaves become deformed and begin to gradually dry out, and the bush’s winter hardiness decreases. To get rid of it, the plant is sprayed with Topaz, 0.4% Zineb, 0.2% Fundazol, 0.2–1% Topsin-M, 0.5% soda ash and 1% copper-soap liquid. In case of severe damage, cut off all infected shoots.

Sometimes orange-brown spots appear on the surface of the leaves, and the reverse side is covered with poisonous red pads - spore-bearing plants. This is how a fungal disease such as rust manifests itself. It affects both stems and foliage. To eliminate it, plantings are treated with the following preparations: Fitosporin-M, Gaupsin, Gamair, Planriz.

If the shoots of honeysuckle begin to dry out, it means that it has been affected by tubercularosis. Red-brown tubercles appear on the branches, in which spores of the fungi that cause the disease develop. Infected branches must be pruned and burned. There is no other way to fight this disease. For preventive purposes, before bud break, the plant is treated with “Fitolavin” or copper sulfate.

With a disease such as moniliosis, the foliage on the branches of honeysuckle dries out, but does not fall off. The fungus enters the branches through cracks and begins to spread throughout the plant. At the first signs of the disease, diseased shoots are cut off, capturing and small area healthy wood. The cut site is treated with preparations containing copper. For prevention purposes, in late autumn the stems are treated with a solution of “Fitolavin”.

Pests

There are insects that feed on honeysuckle leaves. They cannot cause serious damage to the bushes, but they can greatly affect the decorative appearance of the vine.

The honeysuckle sawfly lays its eggs on the lower part of the leaf blade. After some time, very voracious caterpillars appear and eat holes in the leaves. various forms. They are removed by hand because the number of pests is never too large.

If in summer the leaves on young shoots begin to curl, this means that a currant or rose leaf roller has settled on the plant. This pest makes narrow passages. To get rid of it, the bush is treated with Inta-vir or Decis solution.

At high humidity Ticks begin to actively reproduce. They usually appear in very dense plantings. As a result of their vital activity, the leaves curl and fall off prematurely. Control measures include thinning the plantings and treating with acaricidal preparations.

Use in landscape design

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is often used in landscape design. It is usually used for vertical gardening. It is used to decorate arches, gazebos, and camouflage unattractive buildings and barriers.

If it is planted along the fence, it becomes a decorative hedge. Honeysuckle goes well with coniferous plants And beautiful flowering shrubs, such as climbing rose, weigela, deutzia, mock orange.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a beautiful and fragrant decorative vine, the name of which translates as “captivating dream.” For many years, gardeners have widely used it for vertical gardening in their garden plots and summer cottages. Unusual elongated inflorescences attract not only their shape, but also their variety of colors.

Botanical description

Honeysuckle honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) belongs to one of the species of climbing multi-flowered shrub plants, members of the honeysuckle family. Its name comes from the Latin caprifolium (literally “goat leaf”) and refers to a plant in which the stem grows from the central part of the leaves. Among the people it has several original titles: “goat leaf”, “Italian honeysuckle”, “fragrant”, etc.

The country of origin of the honeysuckle vine is the South-East of Great Britain, but in nature it can be found throughout Europe. It is used as ornamental plant for decorating gazebos and parks, in some countries they use its medicinal properties for its astringent and diuretic properties. There are edible varieties, the fruits of which can be eaten, and the dried flowers are often added to tea for a pleasant aroma. These same properties are used in the perfume and cosmetics industry.

The height of the vine can reach up to 6 m, the shape of the leaves differs depending on the variety: variations from ovoid to ellipsoid. Honeysuckle leaves grow in pairs, forming “saucers”, from which inflorescences then begin to grow. The color of the leaves is also original: shiny dark green above, gray-blue below. The lowest ones grow from short stems and have a wide base.

Flowers and fruits

The fragrant honeysuckle vine honeysuckle usually begins to bloom in mid-May, but also depends on the region and weather conditions. The entire vine is covered with fragrant beautiful flowers, which attract many bees, bumblebees and other beneficial insects.

Flowers of an unusual “sessile” shape are decorated with long stamens and are collected at the ends of the branches in bunches of 3-6 pieces, each up to 5 cm long. They grow from the axils of leaves fused at the base. Honeysuckle bloom lasts about 3 weeks, and the life of each flower is even shorter - 3 days. Flowers can tolerate cold temperatures down to -7ºС.

The fruits are juicy berries of bright red or coral color; in honeysuckle they are inedible. In some varieties they are edible and have different taste qualities: sweet, sour, etc. Fruiting begins 3-4 years after planting annual shoots. Ripening occurs quite quickly: fruits appear almost in the first half of June, earlier than wild strawberries. The berries also fall off quickly, which is a disadvantage, so you need to harvest the crop using a film spread under the plant on the ground.

Fruits are juicy and rich in sugars, vitamins, acids and others. useful substances, used fresh or processed, preparations (compotes, jams, juices) are made for the winter. The juice can be used as food coloring.

Legends and symbols

In ancient tales and works of literature, the honeysuckle plant was often associated with the devoted feeling of love. For example, in the legend of Tristan, his beloved Isolde is compared to a delicate and beautiful honeysuckle flower, while in others it symbolizes passion and devotion, eternal love.

Except beautiful flowers, this plant has a pleasant, amazing aroma that becomes stronger in the evening.

Planting and care

One of the most important advantages of honeysuckle honeysuckle is that planting, care and propagation are quite simple and not difficult. The main condition for good growth- the presence of a support with which you can direct its growth so that it quickly trudges upward. Moreover, the higher the support, the faster and higher it will climb to a height. By the fifth year of life, the plant usually gains maximum height, which can reach 5-6 m. During growth, young shoots cling tightly to both the support and the nearest rough surfaces, which can facilitate the reproduction process.

It should be borne in mind that it does not like replanting, so it must be planted immediately in a permanent place in prepared, loosened and moistened soil. The plant prefers neutral-acid soils and does not tolerate heavy loams, especially dry ones.

The size of the planting hole is 50 cm in depth, width and height, drainage (gravel, brick chips, etc.) is placed at the bottom. Boarding takes place at spring time, for which they take a sprout with several buds, from which young shoots will grow in the future.

Many gardeners prefer to plant honeysuckle in peat compost mass prepared from plant waste; it can also be added to a planting hole or trench where several plants are planted in a row.

Before planting, be sure to add peat compost, organic and mineral fertilizers, which are thoroughly mixed with the soil. Then the sprouts are planted. If planted correctly, by the end summer season young shoots will begin to grow, adding up to 2 m in length annually. After reaching the required height of the bush, the top needs to be pinched, which will promote the growth of side shoots.

According to the experience of gardeners who have honeysuckle honeysuckle on their plot, caring for the plant in the summer months consists of regular and frequent loosening and watering so that the soil does not dry out. The bush is fed monthly with humus with the addition of 500 g wood ash.

Wintering and spring pruning

With the approach of cold weather, there is no need to cover or remove grown shoots, since the plant is quite cold-resistant. There is also no need for pruning. If severe frosts are expected, then for the first 2 years the young bushes are covered with spruce branches on top, and the roots are insulated with peat or dry leaves.

In spring, the plant immediately begins to sprout fresh shoots and it will be clear which of them overwintered well and which ones died and need to be pruned. However, this will not be noticeable immediately, because the buds on honeysuckle appear late. You will have to wait a little until it becomes clearly visible where the dead sprouts are and where the living ones are. In addition, new shoots always grow from hidden pockets, and it is then that it becomes clear at what level to prune.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle can be planted both in a sunny place and in partial shade, but abundant flowering occurs only in good light.

Propagation of honeysuckle by seeds

There are 3 ways to propagate honeysuckle honeysuckle: using cuttings, seeds or layering.

Propagation by seeds is a rather lengthy process; moreover, during storage, their germination rate will decrease every year: after 4-5 years it is already only 5%. They are collected during the flowering period of the bush (July), separated from the pulp, washed well and dried at room temperature.

Before sowing, they need to be stratified: placed in wet sand for a long time in cool place at least 2 months. Experienced gardeners make a mixture of seeds and moistened sand in a ratio of 1:3 and put it in the refrigerator. When they are old enough, they are planted in separate pots to a depth of 2 cm and continue to grow in a greenhouse, then planted in open ground into the shade. Care consists of regular watering and weeding. In the fall, the grown seedlings are planted in a permanent place and mulched with peat before winter.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings begin when mature plant already fading (early July). Cuttings with 2 internodes are cut, the lower leaves are removed, the upper leaves are shortened. Young shoots are planted in a greenhouse in a mixture of peat, sand and garden soil (in a ratio of 2:2:1) with a distance of 20 cm, and the pots are covered with glass or polyethylene. For good growth, it is recommended to spray the cuttings three times a day.

The first leaves appear after 30 days, after which the shelter is removed. For the winter, the sprouts are mulched with peat, and with the onset of veins they are already planted in open ground, deepening the root collar to activate adventitious roots. The rooting percentage is 50%.

Formation of layering

The easiest way to propagate honeysuckle is by rooting cuttings, which are cut and buried in the ground, and the vine itself continues to grow. At the place where the incision is made, the formation of roots begins. After this, the branch should be separated from the bush and planted in a permanent place.

Diseases and pests

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is susceptible to mold and the invasion of certain pests: garden aphids, scale insects, leaf rollers and others. Chemicals fights are selected taking into account the type of insect.

When growing this plant for prevention, you must follow some rules:

after fertilizing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers Honeysuckle juice becomes unpalatable to aphids and many leaf-eating pests, so to combat them it is recommended to sprinkle ash, lime and superphosphate into the tree trunk;
to destroy insects that can overwinter along with the foliage, it is necessary to spray the plants with a 5% urea solution;
To combat pests, you can use biological products: “Lepocid”, “Bitoxibacillin”, containing bacteria that destroy harmful insects from the inside.

Medicinal properties

For medicinal purposes, flowers of fragrant honeysuckle honeysuckle, stems and leaves are used, which are best collected during the flowering period, then dried and crushed. The first ones contain essential oils, emitting a pleasant juicy aroma, in homeopathy they use the alcoholic essence of this aphrodisiac, the smell of which soothes nervous system, lifts your mood and improves your well-being. The berries are poisonous and inedible and can cause stomach upset.

Honeysuckle tincture or decoction has an astringent and diuretic effect when taken orally; it is also used to reduce temperature (has a diaphoretic and antipyretic effect for colds), externally - to heal wounds and relieve inflammation in the form of lotions or compresses, rinses for sore throat and stomatitis. Honeysuckle infusion is also often used to strengthen hair and treat baldness.

Varieties of honeysuckle

This plant has many varieties and classification options according to various properties: by the height of the bush, by decorativeness (bushes and vines), by the taste of the fruit (for edible species).

As reviews about honeysuckle honeysuckle testify, caring for it does not present any difficulties. Many gardeners grow several varieties of these plants at once, because they have a positive effect on each other and increase productivity. Therefore, it is better to plant several bushes and vines in one area. different types.

Popular varieties of honeysuckle honeysuckle:

Belgica - the name comes from the country of Belgium, the flowers are pink and purple, the berries are red.
Harleguin - flowers are very picturesque pink in color, edged with a light border.
Munster - light pink flowers with white edges.
Grahm Thomas - flowers are elongated, tube-shaped, the petals are painted in white and yellow shades.

The use of honeysuckle in landscape design

Among the many plants used for vertical gardening, honeysuckle honeysuckle, planting and caring for which is quite simple and does not cause difficulties even for novice gardeners, is ideal option. The liana grows quickly at the top (up to 6 m), entwining supports and adjacent surfaces, it has a lot of greenery, it blooms beautifully and also has a wonderful, unforgettable aroma.

With the help of pruning, the plant can be given any desired shape, so it is planted along the fence, and to decorate the gazebo, to create complex decorative sculptures and compositions. With proper care, this fragrant vine will decorate any garden or personal plot.

Decorative vines - previously rare guests in Russian gardens - are becoming an increasingly common landscape decoration. Climbing honeysuckles are especially popular and offer great variety. Honeysuckle, which is what our great-grandmothers called it, was the first decorative vine in our front gardens. Now she is back in fashion, and not alone. Along with it there are several more species and hybrid forms created by European breeders.

GARDEN CLASSICS

It is believed that honeysuckle honeysuckle was first widely grown in Germany back in the 18th century, during the time of Goethe and Schiller, after the fashion for secluded romantic gazebos arose.

Honeysuckle, whose lashes intertwine without support, is considered in Germany a symbol of faithful affection and long-term love. One of the German folk names for honeysuckle literally translates as: “The farther, the more beloved.”

Honeysuckle has been known in Russia since Pushkin's times. It was especially popular at the end of the 19th century, when the fashion for garden gazebos and pavilions.

The gazebo, entwined with honeysuckle, was a favorite place for secret meetings between lovers of that time. Remember how this is described in the literature. And the arched gate in honeysuckle greens is considered a classic of garden design.

As you can see, this beautifully flowering vine has a long history. But honeysuckle gains particular popularity in Lately. After all, if previously honeysuckle could only be seen at the dachas of wealthy Russians, now the circle of its admirers has expanded by an order of magnitude.

The fashion for gazebos is also returning. Near the new cottages they are being built in both Russian and Japanese style. Honeysuckle will do anyway. Ecclesiastes is truly right: “What has been is what will be... and there is nothing new under the sun.”

JUST CAPRIFOL

The correct botanical name for honeysuckle is honeysuckle honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium). This bush curling around a support lives on the mountain slopes of the Caucasus, in the Southern and Western Europe. In the mountains it reaches almost to the upper limit of the forest, where the climate is very harsh. Therefore, the vine is quite hardy even in our country. Middle lane Russia. In their homeland, lashes grow up to 6 m, in our country it is usually 3-4 m.

Speaking about the appearance of honeysuckle, I note that both its leaves and flowers are decorative. The leaves, like all plants of the honeysuckle family, are located on the shoots in opposite pairs. They are dense, leathery, shiny, and have an attractive blue hue. The shape of the leaves is broadly elliptical or ovoid, there are almost no petioles, and the upper 2 - 3 pairs of leaves are completely fused at their bases, forming cup-shaped discs.

In the center of these discs, extremely original, uniquely shaped honeysuckle flowers are formed, growing directly from the leaf blades.

An individual flower has a tubular, trumpet-shaped shape and reaches a length of 5-6 cm. The inside of the flowers is white or yellowish, the outside has a purple-red tint, often with purple stripes. An additional decoration of the flowers are the far protruding stamens.

Flowering of honeysuckle begins in early June and lasts up to 25 days. Abundantly blooming honeysuckle is a bright sight, and to this magic is added a surprisingly delicate aroma, which is especially strong on quiet June evenings.

The liana remains decorative even after flowering, and in August it becomes even more beautiful. At this time, orange fruits that sit tightly on the leaves, as if grown into them, ripen. The berries are translucent, resemble beads, and are very decorative.

OTHER "CAPRIFOLS"

It should be said that in addition to honeysuckle, there are about 20 types of climbing honeysuckle. Some of them may grow in central Russia. These are honeysuckle: curly, gray, sucker, yellow, gray-ash, etc. There are also hybrid varieties Honeysuckle: American honeysuckle, Heckrott. By the way, in everyday life gardeners call all climbing honeysuckles “one size fits all” - simply honeysuckles.

CLIMBING HONESILKE(L.periclymenum) - in terms of endurance it is not inferior to honeysuckle. It grows as a climbing shrub up to 5 m long. The leaves are ovate, up to 6 cm long, green above, bluish below.

The flowers are yellowish inside, red outside, collected in capitate inflorescences at the ends of the shoots. It blooms in June for more than two weeks. It bears fruit, the berries are quite large and red.

In our conditions, it overwinters steadily and does not require removal from supports. Only annual shoots freeze, but this does not affect the condition of the vines. There are several popular and resistant varieties.

Belgian (f. belgica). It has denser leaves than the species. The flowers are purple on the outside.

Late (f. serotina). Differs in later and long flowering. The flowers are dark red on the outside.

Graham Thomas - has flowers that are creamy yellow on the inside and white on the outside.

HONEKROTT HONEKROTT'S(L. x hecrottii). It is of hybrid origin. Distinctive features- leaves are dark green above, bluish below. The flowers are very bright, two-colored: carmine-red on the outside, yellowish-white on the inside. It does not bloom very profusely, but for a long time, from June to early autumn. In harsh snowless winters it freezes slightly, but quickly recovers and blooms annually. The length of the vine can reach 3 m.

Brown's honeysuckle(L. x brow-nii). It is of hybrid origin. Usually does not exceed 2 m in length. The leaves are ovate or obovate, light green above, bluish-gray below.

The flowers are extremely bright, orange in terminal racemes. Blooms in June-July, again in August-October. In terms of beauty of flowering, it claims to be superior to other honeysuckles. Frost resistance is satisfactory, it freezes only in the harshest winters. Can be grown in bush form.

THAELMAN'S HONEYSUCKLE(Lonicera tellmanniana). In our conditions, it looks like a weakly climbing shrub up to 4-5 m long. The leaves are broadly elliptical, up to 8-9 cm long, bright green.

The flowers are large, orange-yellow, slightly fragrant, in large capitate racemes at the ends of the shoots. In our conditions, abundant flowering of the vine is observed every 3-4 years. After harsh winters, flowering intensity decreases. At the same time, the vine is highly decorative due to its rare beautiful leaves.

Every year it freezes slightly, but recovers quickly and is resistant to disease. Extraordinarily good

in landscaping mesh fences.

There is a lot in common in the agricultural technology of climbing honeysuckles, so we will consider their cultivation using the example of honeysuckle. This liana is demanding on soil fertility and moisture, so moisture-intensive, structural, humus loams are preferred. Honeysuckle is photophilous and blooms luxuriantly only in open places. With a lack of moisture and on sandy soils, honeysuckle is delayed in growth and almost does not bloom.

When planting, vines dig planting holes with a diameter and depth of about half a meter. The excavated soil is mixed with 1.5 - 2 buckets of rotted manure, and sand is added to heavy clays. The hole is again filled with soil mixture. The first time after planting, the vines are watered frequently; subsequently, watering is adjusted according to the weather, preventing drying out. This is not only necessary for good growth and development of the vine, but also promotes abundant flowering.

Honeysuckle is responsive to fertilizer and fertilizing. Organic fertilizers It can be applied in the form of mulch in the fall, at the end of September. In this case, the root zone of the plant is covered with a 5-8 cm layer of rotted compost or humus. This simultaneously insulates the roots of the plants. Fertilizing is practiced 1-2 times during the summer in May and early July, immediately after flowering. At the same time, 1.5-2 liters of a two-week mullein infusion are poured under the bushes.

Plants, as a rule, are not pruned until 6-8 years of age. The exception is cutting out broken and frozen branches. Old bushes are gradually rejuvenated, leaving younger lashes, and old and drying ones are cut into rings, followed by coating the wounds with pitch. The most favorable time for pruning is early spring.

Honeysuckle is propagated by seeds, cuttings, and layering. In places of contact with the soil, the vine takes root during the summer, so the easiest way is to spread it out and pin it with hooks. In the fall, the plant can be cut into pieces, and after a year of growing, planted in a permanent place.

I usually propagate Honeysuckle from green cuttings in mid to late June. This method is more technologically complex, but allows you to obtain more seedlings.

CAPRIFOL IN YOUR GARDEN

The use of ornamental vines in the garden requires famous taste and sequence of actions. This does not mean any special complexity, not at all, because many of us are given taste by nature. In addition, it is not necessary to fantasize and invent things yourself. You will achieve what you want simply by imitating successful examples you have seen in books or in real gardening.

IN decorative design Honeysuckle is used for landscaping arches, arched gates, and building facades. When decorating arches and gates, vine bushes are planted in pairs at each of the supports, with their sleeves facing each other.

When landscaping facades and gazebos, vines are planted at a distance of 0.8-1.0 m from each other, taking into account the size of adult plants. The vines are periodically tied up and directed, forming more or less dense, even surfaces. Without this, honeysuckle can look sloppy.

Mesh fences landscaped with climbing honeysuckles look very unusual. For this, I note that all their types and varieties are equally suitable. The bushes are planted quite often, every 30-60 cm, and after they develop, they are systematically trimmed from the sides to give the appearance of flat walls.

Address: 600028, Vladimir, 24th passage, 12.

Smirnov Alexander Dmitrievich

www.vladgarden.narod.ru

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Large bright flowers, abundantly covering honeysuckle honeysuckle, fill the garden with an extraordinary aroma every spring. This liana is good with inedible, but very picturesque fruits in vertical gardening. In our review you will find information about planting honeysuckle, what care it needs, and methods of reproduction.

About varieties and varieties of honeysuckle

All varieties of honeysuckle are divided into fruit and ornamental. Fruit appearance Honeysuckle is a bush with a height of 1 to 2 meters. Varieties of this species differ in ripening time, yield, and taste of the fruit. Decorative look includes plants valued for their beauty.

Tatarian honeysuckle

This includes two groups:

Bushes - Tatar honeysuckle, Korolkova, alpine, common, Maksimovich.
Lianas - honeysuckle, Thälmann honeysuckle, climbing, Brown.

Thälmann's honeysuckle

The most beautiful among the vines is honeysuckle honeysuckle, reaching a height of 6 m. Its young shoots, sometimes light green, sometimes in all shades of red-violet, become covered with grayish-brown bark with age. The long stems are covered with large, dense leaves that are dark green on top and bluish below. In May-June, the shoots are decorated with fragrant multi-flowered exquisite inflorescences. Everyone has it pink flower white or cream core. A month later, fruits appear - orange balls that ripen in August. Although flowering lasts only about a month, the fragrant vine is decorative until late autumn.

Honeysuckle Honeysuckle

Honeysuckle looks great next to coniferous trees, climbing roses, and other shrubs. It is enough to look at the photo of this powerful honeysuckle vine, which means goat vine, to want to settle it on your property.

Attention: honeysuckle honeysuckle fruits cannot be eaten - they are poisonous.

In the sun, honeysuckle blooms more abundantly, so a place well lit by the sun is set aside for its planting. It is better to plant in the spring, and in order for the plant to develop correctly, support is necessary. On average, honeysuckle grows 1 m per year. It grows in one place for 50 years.

Features of planting honeysuckle

Lonicera caprifolium is planted in a permanent place immediately. It is believed that goat vine prefers neutral acidic soils. It does not like clayey or dry soils and does not develop well on them.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle fruit

The planting process consists of several sequential steps:

Attention: a slight deepening of the root collar is beneficial for honeysuckle.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle care

Fragrant honeysuckle has high winter hardiness. For the first 2 years you will have to cover the soil around the roots with fallen leaves or peat, and then you can forget about this procedure. The lashes that have grown over the summer do not need pruning. If in the spring you find that the stems are frozen in some places, prune them - buds will not form on these shoots anyway. Process further care consists of several important aspects:

Weed removal– is one of the important points in the process of caring for honeysuckle. They should be removed from the site even before planting the bush, especially perennial weeds.

It is important that the development of honeysuckle is not interfered with by weeds

Watering. Honeysuckle loves moisture. In summer, watering should be regular, and in drought the portions of water are doubled.

Trimming– affects the development and formation of the bush. This is done immediately after planting, otherwise the fast-growing honeysuckle will turn into a completely unattractive green mop. First, we trim the weak stems, leaving no more than 3 of the most reliable ones and shorten them by 1/3. Then we carry out regular inspections, discard damaged and dry shoots, and when the vine reaches the planned height, we cut the top, then the bush will begin to grow in breadth.

Tip: prune branches in the spring, after buds appear. Trim the shoot above the bud using pruning shears.

How and with what to fertilize and feed

Goat honeysuckle reacts positively to feeding, but it needs to be done correctly:

at the end of autumn we add potassium and phosphate fertilizers, add compost and humus under the bushes;
in spring - the vine needs nitrogen; it is also useful to water it with diluted bird droppings or mullein.

Feed the plant twice per season

Propagation of fragrant honeysuckle

It is easy to propagate honeysuckle; there are 4 ways to do this:

seeds;
cuttings;
layering;
dividing the main bush.

Honeysuckle from seeds

We harvest the seeds in July, for which we extract them from the pulp, wash them thoroughly, and dry them. The complexity of this method is that honeysuckle seed material does not germinate well. To correct the situation, experienced gardeners It is recommended to pre-stratify fresh seeds. To do this, in the fall, pour wet sand into some container and pour out the seeds. Place the dishes in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Every 14 days we check the moisture content of the sand and spray it with water if it is dry.

To prepare seeds you will need ripe honeysuckle fruits

This way in the spring the seeds will be ready for planting. Sowing is carried out using the following technology:

fill the box with nutrient substrate;
sprinkle seeds and sand on top;
sprinkle the seed with a thin layer of soil;
moisturize;
cover with film or glass;
remove the cover after germination;
we move the seedlings to a permanent place in the fall, creating a shelter for them.

Honeysuckle sprouts

You can plant stratified seeds in the spring, around April, on the garden bed, making grooves 15-20 mm deep and sealing them to a depth of 10 mm. In the summer they should be watered, not allowed to become overgrown with weeds, and covered with peat for the winter. In the spring of next year, the seedlings are ready to move to their permanent habitat.

Propagation of goat honeysuckle by cuttings

For this method of propagation it is necessary to prepare cuttings. It is better to do this before the end of the flowering period. Not suitable as source material cuttings that do not break when bent - this indicates that they are not yet mature enough. There should be 2-3 internodes on the cuttings. We make the upper cut straight at a distance of 1.5 cm from the bud, and the lower cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Lower leaves remove completely, and shorten the top ones by ½. We plant the blanks in a greenhouse, protected from the sun, maintaining a distance between them of approximately 0.2 m. The substrate for planting cuttings is composed of peat, garden soil and sand (2: 1: 2).

Honeysuckle cuttings take root very easily

We spray the cuttings three times a day for a month. During this time, the first leaves will form and the seedlings will no longer need shelter. To ensure that the sprouts survive the winter successfully, we mulch them. We transplant into open ground in the spring.

Tip: take cuttings from the middle part of the vine. Ideally, the length of the workpiece is about 10 cm and the thickness is approximately 0.5 cm.

Reproduction by layering

This method is the simplest and most trouble-free. The algorithm is as follows:

We select suitable shoots in spring or autumn.
We dig holes to a depth of about 0.2 m from the layering side.
We fill the seat with fertile soil with the addition of lime.
We bend the whip to the ground, placing it in the recess so that the top remains at the top.
We fix the layering using staples made of strong wire.
Cover with a layer of soil, water and mulch.
We dig up young shoots of fragrant honeysuckle next spring, we separate it from the base plant and plant it in a permanent place.

Even an inexperienced gardener can propagate honeysuckle by layering.

If honeysuckle is grown as a hedge, then the cuttings do not need to be separated from the main bush. Near the upper part that looks out of the ground, we simply install a support and tie a plant to it, which continues to develop as an independent bush.

The fourth method of propagation is dividing the bush

From overgrown, good developed plant You can painlessly separate the part for transplantation:

dig up the bush at the base;
take a sharp pruner and cut off the shoot with its roots.

Reproduction by dividing the bush is a more labor-intensive method

Or in another way:

we dig up the plant completely along with a large lump of earth;
divide the bush into parts using a sharp shovel;
we treat the cuts with ash or crushed coal;
shorten the shoots by a third of the length;
we place each share in a separate seat;
We begin to form the crown a year after the transplant procedure.

Diseases and pests of honeysuckle honeysuckle

You should carefully study the description of the signs and photos of honeysuckle diseases, since it is often affected by them. Among the most dangerous diseases are ramulariasis. It appears on young leaves in the form of grayish-brown spots with a brown center. Later, the stems and petioles are also affected - they begin to die. The plant weakens due to loss nutrients. Spraying with Fundazol and copper sulfate helps.

No less dangerous cercospora. Something appears on the leaves in the form of dots with a red-brown border. Control methods are similar to those used for ramulariasis.

There are dangerous fungal diseases, affecting honeysuckle

Tuberculariosis affects honeysuckle branches. Red bumps appear on them. Fungal spores also settle in the bark. Shoots and leaves wither. Affected areas should be cut out and destroyed, and for prevention, plants should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture and copper sulfate in the spring.

The most dangerous of the pests is aphids. With its presence, the leaves turn yellow, become covered with spots, and then die. The shoots are also damaged, because the larvae suck the juice out of them. Aphids are destroyed using drugs such as Eleksar, Actellik, and Confidor.

The typical variety of the Honeysuckle genus is honeysuckle honeysuckle, which has gained immense popularity in vertical gardening of personal plots. A climbing vine, glorified in many legends as a symbol of passion, devotion and highly decorative, will be an excellent addition to the landscape composition of a garden or a cozy courtyard.

Description of the plant

Honeysuckle honeysuckle, also known as fragrant honeysuckle, is a climbing shrub with a height of up to 6 m. Light green shoots, covered with oppositely located leaf plates, in the upper axils of which yellow-white flowers are formed, change color to brown as they age. In place of fragrant flowers, during the fruiting period, which occurs in the second half of summer, red berries are formed on short stalks, which creates the appearance that the fruits are glued to the leaves.

The fragrant liana is presented in two decorative forms:

Alba - plants with white flowers that bloom half a month earlier than the type species;
few-flowered - plants with pink-red flowers, the number of which is much less than that of the main species or the above form.

Planting honeysuckle honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) in open ground

To ornamental shrub retained its qualities, the landing should be carried out in compliance with the basic rules.

Soil requirements, site selection

Honeysuckle honeysuckle feels good in sunny areas or with light shade; it prefers well-drained and fertile soil. The soil is prepared several weeks before planting the seedlings: organic and complex mineral fertilizers in the form of compost, humus, and azophosphate are applied during digging.

How and when to plant shrubs

The optimal time for planting shrubs in open ground is the second half of spring after the threat of return frosts has passed. When the area is prepared:
1. Planting holes with dimensions of 50x50 cm are dug, at the bottom of which a drainage layer of broken brick is placed, covered with fertile soil to ⅔ of the volume.
2. If planned hedge, then the distance between future seedlings is maintained at 1 m, and for group plantings - 1.5 m.
3. Seedlings with straightened roots are placed on the ground and buried in such a way that the root collar rises 5 cm above the ground.
4. If there is no wall or fence nearby, a support in the form of metal or wooden slats.
5. The tree trunk circle is watered, after which the root collar is level with the ground level.

Propagation of fragrant liana

The ornamental crop can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and layering.

Seed method

A labor-intensive and lengthy process in which stratified seeds are distributed at the beginning of spring over the surface of a moistened substrate prepared from peat and sand in equal parts. The containers are placed under glass and kept in a warm, bright room. When the shoots appear, the protective glass is removed, and after they have formed 3 true leaves, diving is carried out. In open ground planting material planted only at the end of next spring. Flowering of specimens obtained by seed method is observed after 3-4 years.

Cuttings

During the spring procedure:

1. Cuttings 15 cm long with 2 internodes are cut from the middle part of the shoots.
2. The cuttings are buried in a light, nutritious substrate at one internode.
3. Installed above the plantings plastic bottles to create a greenhouse effect, which are systematically removed for ventilation and humidification.
4. After the formation of new leaves, the rooting process is considered successfully completed.
5. New specimens are planted in a permanent place of cultivation.

Reproduction by layering

The most productive method is carried out in the spring. The lower shoot of the vine is lowered into a trench prepared in advance, where it is pinned and takes root. The top of the branch is left above ground level. During the summer, the cuttings are watered and fed, after which they are separated from the mother specimen and planted in a permanent place of growth.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle care

Climbing honeysuckle is quite unpretentious, so care will not take much time.

Watering

Collateral successful cultivation A moisture-loving crop is systematic watering, in which the tree trunk circle should always remain moist.

Moistening is carried out at the rate of 15-20 liters of water per bush with adjustment of purity depending on the speed of soil drying.

Loosening, weeding and mulching

After moistening, the soil is loosened and cleared of weeds. To prevent moisture evaporation and reduce the frequency of weeding and loosening, the tree trunk circle is covered with a layer of mulch.

Top dressing

To maintain soil fertility and provide abundant flowering decorative honeysuckle is fertilized twice per season:
using organic matter in the spring;
foliar method using mineral complexes in the summer.

Trimming

Decorative vines with fragrant flowers are subject not only to sanitary, but also to formative pruning:

1. Formative haircut - in the first year after planting, honeysuckle shoots are shortened by ⅔ of their length. In the next season, 3-4 skeletal branches are left, and the rest are removed. During the growing season side shoots they are launched along the support at the request of the gardener.
2. Sanitary pruning - the procedure is carried out after the buds awaken in order to identify dried shoots that will not turn green, but will remain lifeless.

Preparing for winter

Species plants do not shelter in adulthood. However, varietal, hybrid and young specimens are insulated using a thick layer of dry leaves as mulch. After protecting the root area, the plants are removed from the support, laid on the litter and covered with natural covering material.

Diseases, pests and methods of combating them

Despite its good immunity, honeysuckle honeysuckle can be attacked by aphids and cabbage caterpillars, which should be combated using insecticidal pesticides according to the instructions on the package. Among the diseases on the shoots of the plant, there may be foci of development powdery mildew and rust. As effective means Fungicides are used to combat diseases. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to remove diseased shoots and thoroughly clean the trunk circle of infected ones. plant residues after leaf fall.

Decorative honeysuckle in landscape design

Landscape designers practice the use of honeysuckle honeysuckle in vertical gardening of a personal plot. By using climbing vine:
beautiful hedges are created;
unsightly corners of the site are decorated, including the walls of outbuildings;
gazebos are decorated;
fences are created separating the garden areas.
Thus, thanks to the decorative vine, the gardener, with minimal physical and time expenditure, will be able to green the area, filling it with bright colors and a wonderful aroma.