Homemade compressor from available parts. Do-it-yourself garage compressor: how to do it right

In the garage of a car enthusiast, you can find many useful and not very useful tools. In addition to the usual set, it will be useful to air compressor. It is suitable for car painting, tire inflation, air supply for pneumatic tool operation. Let's see how to make a car with your own hands. We will also find out how it is arranged and on what principle it works.

Compressed air to help the car enthusiast

Air compressors are quite useful in workshops and garages. There is always a task for these devices. This can be banal cleaning, cleaning from dust that has formed after grinding, or creating air pressure for the operation of various air tools. Most compressors are used for painting. This imposes some requirements on the device.

Air flow and spray painting

For work with paint, the air flow must be as uniform as possible. Also, the compressed air stream must not contain water particles, oil impurities or other oil products. The presence of suspended and solid particles is unacceptable in the flow.

Sometimes when painting you can see defects. Often this is graininess on a freshly applied coat of paint. This happens due to the fact that there were foreign particles in the stream. If paint streaks or dull spots are observed, then this is a sign of uneven supply of paint, enamel or varnish.

Branded or homemade?

What is the difference between a proprietary compressor? Its characteristics are ideal for working with an airbrush or spray gun, but factory products cost serious money. If the device is needed infrequently, then you can save a little and make a unit that will not be inferior to factory models.

The principle of operation of the compressor

Both professional and self-made devices work on the same principle. In a container for storing compressed air, which is called a receiver, an excess pressure level is created. The air itself can be blown into the receiver both automatically and manually.

If you work in manual mode, then it is certainly very cheap in finance, but it will require serious energy costs. You also need to constantly monitor this process. After such work, it is unlikely that you will want to do anything else.

If you use the mechanisms for pumping air, then this will facilitate the process. There are no drawbacks here, you just need to change the oil in the air pump, depending on the regulations.

Further, the compressed air flow passes through the outlet valve of the compressor or in this case the receiver and is directly supplied either to the airbrush, or to the car chamber, or to the pneumatic tool. In general, the principle is very simple, and therefore the simplest working model can be built in a couple of minutes.

Homemade compressor

Let's look at how to make the simplest compressor for painting a car with your own hands. As one of the options, we will try to make a device for painting work from a car chamber. To create, we need a receiver, a supercharger, a spool from a damaged camera, a repair kit, an awl. When everything you need is assembled and prepared for work, you can start assembling.

At the assembly stage, you need to check the tightness of the chamber. To do this, you can use a car pump. Every motorist knows how to do it. If the rubber holds the air pumped into it, you can proceed to the next step.

If air leaks are found, then you can use a repair kit or vulcanize the hole with raw rubber.

At the next stage, in the so-called receiver, it is required to make holes for another spool. It will be the outlet valve. This fitting can be glued using the same pre-stocked repair kit. This valve is connected to the airbrush. The nipple must be unscrewed from the fitting. The compressor circuit provides for the free passage of air. We will not unscrew the nipple in the main spool. He will keep the pressure.

Then, by the method of scientific poke, we will try to determine the required pressure level in our receiver. For this, a spray gun is used. If the paint lays down evenly, without jerks, streaks or anything else, then everything is done correctly. It is desirable to control the amount of excess pressure in the receiver. When you press the airbrush button, the level should not jump.

As you can see, this is the most primitive compressor for painting a car with your own hands. Now you can create masterpieces or just repaint the body.

It is not difficult to assemble this unit, and its usefulness can be seen during various repairs. If you have used for painting before, then you will definitely be able to appreciate all the advantages.

Just remember that in no case should liquid, dust or anything else get into the spray gun and into the camera. In the event of a violation, dust or moisture will mix with the paint, and the work will have to be redone. Then no adjustment of the spray gun will help. It will be more convenient if our camera is fixed on something. This will prevent her from moving across the floor.

This model works great, and it is already quite usable. But even better with small changes make the injection system automatic. Next, we will learn how to make the compressor more serious.

Semi-professional equipment

Professionals say that such handicraft equipment has a huge resource and service life, unlike factory models of foreign brands and domestic manufacturer. But this is understandable, because, knowing the scheme of work, if any part fails, it can be easily replaced. Let's see how to make a compressor that can be used professionally.

What is needed for assembly?

So. Here you will need readily available spare parts for the compressor. This is a pressure gauge, as well as a gearbox with a filter. You also need a relay to control the pressure in the chamber, a fuel filter from a car, a water quad with internal thread by ¾. In addition, you should pick up threaded adapters, car clamps, a motor, a receiver tank, 10w40 oil, a toggle switch for 220 V, brass tubes, and oil-resistant rubber hoses. These compressor parts can easily be found in the garage.

Thick wood will be used as the basis for the unit. You will also need a syringe from the nearest pharmacy, anti-corrosion liquid, fasteners, sealants and FUM tape, paint, a needle file, wheels from an office chair and a filter from the auto power system.

So, knowing the principle of operation of the compressor, it's time to start building. Let's start with the blower.

Engine as supercharger

We will use a compressor from old refrigerators as a motor. Often it already has a built-in starting relay, which in our case is very convenient. This will automatically maintain the desired pressure in the receiver chamber. It is better to use a motor from old Soviet cooling units. They have higher performance compared to imported products.

Preparatory procedures

Feel free to get the executive part out of your old refrigerator. Naturally, you need to clean the part, because over the years the block has managed to acquire centuries of dust, and also, possibly, to rust. After cleaning, you can treat the body with a rust converter to save the block from corrosion. So, the preparation for painting is done.

Change the lubricant in the actuating unit. It is rare that a refrigerator received service according to the regulations. This system is almost completely isolated from environmental influences. For replacement oil is suitable semi-synthetics. It is no worse than specialized compressor fluids.

Inlet, outlet and oil change

Must have tubes. Two of them are open, one is soldered. Open tubes are used for air inlet and outlet. To find out which handset is the input and which is the output, you can briefly turn on the power. Next, remember which of the tubes releases air.

The refrigerator compressor circuit says that the lubricant needs to be changed through a sealed tube. You should very carefully cut off the end of the tube with a needle file. It is necessary to saw so that the chips do not get inside. Next, the tip must be broken off and drained into some jar of old grease. Then, using a pharmacy syringe, fill in more lubricant than poured out.

In order for the unit to work properly, the lubrication tube must be sealed. A screw of a suitable diameter will help us with this. It must be wrapped with a pre-prepared FUM tape and screwed into a long-suffering pipe.

Next, attach this device to the board using the prepared fasteners. The electronic part is very sensitive to position. Therefore, the top cover of the relay is marked with an arrow. The operating modes will only switch if the setting is correct.

Choosing a container for the receiver

As practice shows, it works best for painting if a used fire extinguisher is used as an air container. These cylinders are good because they contain the necessary margin of safety. In addition, the fire extinguisher is designed for. This choice is also good because various attachments can be placed on the cylinder body. Take, for example, a metal 10-liter cylinder from OU-10. It holds a pressure of 15 MPa and has high strength.

Fire extinguisher preparation

Immediately boldly twist the lock-starter, we will not need it. And you need to screw the adapter into place, having previously wound the FUM tape onto the thread. If the body is rusted, you need to treat the rust with either chemistry or sandpaper.

Outside, in the fight against corrosion, everything is very, very simple. What about corrosion inside? Pour the cleaner into the bottle, and then you need to mix the product very well. Next, screw the cross from the water supply. And don't forget to seal threaded connections. Now everything is almost ready.

We mount attachments

We almost made a compressor for painting a car with our own hands. To make it easy to move, the best option- this is the fastening of all components and parts on one platform. We have it wood plate. The motor from the refrigerator is already fixed on it, and now you need to place a fire extinguisher-receiver there.

In the plate, it is necessary to make holes for fasteners in advance. The motor from the refrigerator is already fixed with studs and nuts. The fire extinguisher must be placed vertically. To do this, you can use plywood. This will require three sheets.

In the first sheet, cut a hole suitable for the diameter of the balloon. Fix the rest on the plate. Next, fix these plates to the plate along with the sheet with the hole using glue. To make the fire extinguisher conveniently located on the platform, you can make a recess under the bottom. To make our device maneuverable, take out the prepared furniture wheels and screw them onto the platform.

Protection against dust and small debris

Naturally, the equipment must be protected from dust as much as possible. To do this, we will use a car. The filter must be mounted in the air intake.

How to do it? We use a rubber hose. It should tightly compress the autofilter fitting and the compressor inlet pipe from the refrigerator. On the inlet tube, you can not clamp the hose with clamps. There is no high pressure.

Moisture protection

An oil separator must be installed at the outlet. It will not allow liquid or oil particles to get into the system. To do this, you can apply a filter from the diesel power system. The connection is made using the same hose. But here it is already necessary to strengthen the connections with a clamp, because there will be decent pressure at the outlet.

denouement

The diesel filter must be connected to the reducer input. It is necessary to untie the inlet and outlet pressure refrigeration compressor. For this, to the left and right side crosspieces must be screwed in the high pressure outlet of the supercharger.

We fix the pressure gauge

A manometer is fixed at the top entrance of the crosspiece. On it we will perform pressure control. You also need to tighten the adjusting relays. Do not forget that the threads must be sealed.

Relay importance

This device makes it possible to regulate pressure levels over a wide range. It can, if necessary, interrupt the power supply to the refrigeration motor. For these purposes, either PM5 or RDM5 is suitable. Both devices will start the motor if the pressure drops and turn off when it rises. The pressure level is adjusted using the springs on top. So, with the help of a large one we set the minimum levels, and a small one - the maximum limits.

Electricity

To make it all work, we connect the neutral power wire to the relay, and connect the second wire to the refrigeration engine.

Pass the phase wire through the toggle switch to the second contact of the compressor. This will allow you to turn off the power faster. Naturally, after connecting, you need to securely insulate all this.

So we made a compressor for painting a car with our own hands. It remains only to paint, adjust and test it.

Adjustment and first tests

After assembling all this together, you can safely proceed to the first tests. Connect an actuator to the output of the unit. Then plug the cord into the outlet, set the relay to the very minimum and turn on the toggle switch. Look at the pressure gauge. If you are convinced that the relay turns off the motor, you can check the tightness. To do this, apply old fashioned way with soap.

If everything is fine, then bleed the air from the receiver. When the pressure drops, the relay should start the motor. If everything works, then painting with an airbrush will no longer cause difficulties.

First samples

To test the unit in operation, any unnecessary detail. There is no need for any surface preparation. It is important to determine operating pressure by trial and error. With the help of experiments, determine the figure at which there is enough pressure for a complete painting without frequent switching on of the motor.

As you can see, it is quite easy to make for painting. This unit can already be fully used for professional activity. The costs will definitely pay off soon. The compressor is needed not only for painting work. It has a very wide range of applications. A semi-automatic system will allow you not to be distracted from work.

Spray guns

In addition to the compressor, airbrushes will also be needed for painting work. To do this, you need to purchase a pneumatic model. A properly selected airbrush will allow you to successfully carry out work. The tool should be selected based on the characteristics of the compressor.

An airbrush for a car should be correctly selected in accordance with the working pressure. If the choice is wrong, the pressure will drop too quickly, and the quality of work will be very low. There are several technologies that are used in this tool. They need to be selected based on the task. For example, modern technology LVLP allows you to use paint very economically with a small air flow, and the surface will be of high quality.

How to set up the spray gun?

High-quality painting is possible only with properly configured equipment. The spray gun setting allows you to change the width of the torch, air pressure, as well as the paint supply.

With the width of the torch, everything is very clear. Max Width - maximum speed, uniform overlay. For touch-ups, the flame is reduced, but the air supply is also reduced.

Adjusting the flow of paint is also easy. Many experts open it to the maximum. But the air supply can be problematic. For correct setting you will need a compressor, instructions for a specific spray gun. It is necessary to use a sheet of drawing paper and direct a jet from the spray gun at it. If the flame is in the shape of a figure eight, reduce the pressure. If the paint is dripping, add it. Find the best position.

Homemade compressor from the refrigerator is most often used in tandem with an airbrush or spray gun, as it works almost silently, takes up little space and creates sufficient air pressure. It is also suitable for inflating the wheels of the car. Next, we will tell you how to make a compressor with your own hands.

Materials and tools for a homemade refrigerator compressor

Compressor. The motor from the old refrigerator is called the compressor, it is the central element of our product. You can see how it looks in the photo: details different models may differ, but are generally similar to each other. The compressor is supplied with a start relay (a black box attached to the side), from which a power cord with a plug comes out.

Receiver. The container into which air will be pumped by the compressor. Options are possible here: any tightly closed container with a volume of 3 to 10 liters made of iron or plastic is suitable. It can be an empty fire extinguisher, small tanks, various receivers from trucks, canisters from construction fluids.

Hoses. You will need three pieces of hose. Two are 10 cm long and one is 30-70 cm, depending on the shape of the receiver and the intended fastening. It is convenient to use fuel hoses in a car, as they will connect to car filters.

You will also need one hose or tube to connect the finished home-made compressor from the refrigerator to the air consumer itself. Here the length, the material depends on the specific needs. If you will be using the compressor with the airbrush, any thin polyvinyl hose (or the one that comes with the airbrush) will do. When using the compressor outdoors, it is better to look for a thicker hose.

• Clamps. 5 pieces, size 16 or 20 mm.
• Tubes. Two pieces - copper or iron, with a diameter of 6 mm or others - the main thing is that the hoses fit.
• One is 10 cm long, the second is 20-50, depending on the size of the receiver, more details below.
• Automotive fuel filters. One petrol and one diesel.
• Manometer (optional).
• Epoxy resin if a plastic receiver is used.
• A piece wooden board(the foundation). The size depends on the size of the receiver and the motor. They should be placed side by side on the board.
• Steel tape or wire. Needed to secure the receiver.
• Wood screws.

Tools:

• sharp knife
• Screwdriver
• Drill
• Pliers.
• Metal file (optional).

How to make a compressor with your own hands

Now directly about how to make a compressor with your own hands.

Three tubes come out of the compressor from the refrigerator: two open and one short, sealed. Plug the compressor into a power outlet and run your finger near the outlets of the tubes. The one from which air blows will be the exit, and the one that draws in will be the entrance. Remember which one is which, and unplug the compressor from the outlet. Cut two tubes with a metal file, leaving 10 cm or more to make it convenient to connect the hoses. You can bite off with pliers, but you need to make sure that the sawdust does not get inside the tubes. Next, we mount the compressor on the base board, screwing the legs with self-tapping screws (you can use bolts, it’s more reliable). Important: we fix the compressor in the same position in which it was fixed in the refrigerator. The fact is that the starting relay on the motor works due to the forces of gravity, on the relay case there is an arrow pointing up. Having fixed the compressor, we pass to the receiver.

We make a receiver. Option if you have a plastic container. We drill two holes in the lid for our tubes. We insert them there, as shown in the figure, and fasten them with epoxy. From above, we leave the ends 2-4 cm long. Now about the length of the tubes. Short (10 cm) will be the day off. The second will be the input, we make it as large as possible so that it does not reach a few centimeters to the bottom of the receiver. This is done in order to space the inlet and outlet holes inside the receiver as much as possible for greater air mixing.

If you have an iron receiver, we do the same, but do not glue the tubes, but solder or weld them. You can also weld the nuts, and then screw the fittings under the hoses into them.

The pressure gauge can only be installed in a metal receiver. To do this, we drill in any convenient location there is a hole on the receiver and solder a pressure gauge in it. A more preferable option: we weld a nut onto the hole and screw the pressure gauge into the nut already. So in case of failure of the pressure gauge, you can easily replace it.

Now we take a piece of hose (10 cm) and put it on the gasoline filter. If you use hoses for gasoline, then there should be no problems, if you use polyvinyl pipes, you may have to heat it with a match or hold it in boiling water so that it fits on the filter fitting. We put the other end of the hose on the compressor inlet tube. This inlet filter is needed to filter out dust. Here, the use of clamps on the joints is not necessary, since there is no pressure here.

We take the second piece of hose and connect it to the outlet tube on the compressor with the inlet on the receiver. We put clamps at the junctions.

Now we put the third piece of the hose (10 cm) with one end on the outlet tube of the receiver, and put the other end on the diesel filter. We put on clamps. An arrow is drawn on the filters (diesel and gasoline), indicating right directions movement through the air filter. Connect both filters correctly. The diesel filter at the outlet is needed to filter water from the air.

We put our working hose on the outlet fitting of the diesel filter, which goes directly to the airbrush, spray gun, etc.

On the underside of the base board, we fasten rubber legs or glue felt pads for furniture. If this is not done, the compressor may scratch the floor during operation - it vibrates. The level of vibration and noise depends on the model of the refrigerator compressor you have obtained. Motors from imported refrigerators are almost inaudible, Soviet ones are also quiet, but there are exceptions.

The pressure generated also depends on the model. Ancient motors are more powerful. Most Soviet compressors are capable of pumping pressure up to 2-2.5 bar. The compressor in the photo creates a pressure of 3.5 bar.

Maintenance of a homemade compressor from the refrigerator

Compressor maintenance consists of regularly changing both filters and draining the collected oil in the receiver. But the main factor affecting the life of the compressor is the frequency of oil changes. The first time it is better to change it before assembling the compressor. There is a third sealed tube on the motor. We cut off the soldered end from it and drain the oil from it by turning the motor over. It will pour out about a glass of oil. Now, with a syringe, fill in fresh engine oil through the same tube, a little more than the amount that was drained.

After, in order not to solder the drain tube, we twist the bolt into it right size. At the next oil change, just unscrew the bolt.

An air compressor is a device that sprays paint. It is commonly used in workshops and garages for car painting or wheel inflation. You can buy such equipment in a specialized store or make it yourself. Unlike factory models, DIY equipment can be more efficient and last much longer. In addition, in terms of financial costs, self-production will be cheaper.

Using an accessory from a car, you can make a compressor of a simple design. This is a finished electrical appliance - wheel inflation machine. The compressor has two positive properties:

• Power. The device is able to create high pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres, without unnecessary load on the engine. This is the main advantage of automotive devices. But it will take about 10 minutes to pump the wheels. Therefore, work is done intermittently, otherwise cheap devices may overheat during this time. The reason is the low performance of automotive compressors.
• Performance. For a unit of time, the device is able to give out air quickly and in large quantities. Thanks to the high performance, the container fills up faster, and the direct use of compressed air makes the flow from the nozzle stronger.

High-speed engine and a device with a volumetric piston system will help to combine power and performance. In order for the equipment not to stop during overheating, it is necessary to create additional cooling of the cylinders. Sometimes turbines are used for the working unit. In everyday life, the frequent use of simple devices is not resorted to because of their high cost. In order not to choose between power and performance, use a receiver.

The receiver is storage capacity . For industrial devices, a steel cylinder is used as a receiver. A fairly powerful, but not very productive compressor slowly fills the tank. In a short period of time, a volumetric air flow can be supplied from the receiver, but only when sufficient pressure appears. After supplying air, it must restore pressure. All devices work on this principle. For a compressor with low power, an electric motor from a toy is suitable. Such a device is often used to supply air to an aquarium.

Functional homemade compressor

Unlike devices that are made of car accessories, the compressor from the refrigerator runs continuously. This is due to good power and performance. In addition, the quality is not worse than the factory models. And if it is possible to get components for free, then it will take a minimum of funds to manufacture such a device. The device is designed for painting and blowing, tire fitting works, perfectly ensures the operation of pneumatic tools. For the manufacture of a compressor for voltage 220 V you will need the following details:

1. Motor-compressor from an old refrigerator.
2. Tees, oil filling tube, hoses, fittings, pneumo inlets.
3. Reducer that will monitor the pressure.
4. Two manometers.
5. Receiver. For this, a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder, which must be completely empty. You can weld a homemade container made of sheet iron and a thick pipe.
6. Air filter.
7. Oil.
8. Emergency valve.
9. Start relay and pressure switch.
10. Paint for metal.
11. Fum tape, hacksaw and motor oil.
12. Key and syringe.

The assembly of the compressor consists of several stages:

High Power Compressor

If a previous version compressor is not powerful enough for you, that is, devices with more high pressure and high performance. An internal combustion engine is used here as a compressor, the crankshaft of which begins to work not from the combustion of fuel, but from the reverse process. At the same time, the piston group of the apparatus has a large margin of safety. An electric motor with a power of 3 kW or more is used as a drive, which can be purchased at a low cost. Or use a working motor by removing the ignition and intake system, exhaust, starter group and gearbox.

This device is capable of creating pressure with a force of 10 atmospheres. Very noisy.

Medium Power Air Compressor

From a gas bottle or fire extinguisher an air compressor of medium power is being created. To do this, they connect an old fire extinguisher (cylinder) and a powerful auto-compressor for pumping wheels. At self-manufacturing device, the following rules must be observed:

• A container with mechanical damage and corrosive deposits must not be used.
• The design must be well fixed.
• Be sure to make a steel crate. This is necessary if the receiver accidentally breaks.
• It is necessary to provide for a pressure reserve. If you plan to increase the pressure to 5 atmospheres, then its strength should be from 10 atmospheres.
• In order for the compressor to automatically turn off when the pressure reaches its maximum, an emergency shutdown sensor is installed. Or you should install a mechanical valve that, if necessary, will make an emergency pressure relief.
• Can't be left on for a long time high pressure apparatus, if used in rare cases. To maintain tightness, 0.5 atmospheres is enough.

Do not neglect safety: do not forget about the installation of emergency sensors. An inflated wheel will simply burst, and if a steel cylinder explodes, you can get severe injuries.

Making a compressor with your own hands is easy. Its design can be simple or complex, the main thing is what it is intended for and how much money you are willing to spend on its manufacture. But do not forget that the device must meet the requirements of technical safety.

To make a compressor yourself, you will need a refrigerator, more precisely, just one part of it. Often such a device is used together with a spray gun or an airbrush.

It makes almost no noise during its operation, has small size while creating quite a lot of pressure. Such a unit is also suitable for inflating automobile wheels.

What will we need?
1. The motor installed in the old refrigerator is the compressor. In general, all models are quite similar, if there is a difference between them, then it is not significant.

The black box attached to the side is the relay from which comes the power cable with plug.

2. The container into which the compressor will pump air is the receiver. For such purposes, any hermetically sealed iron or plastic 3-10-liter container is suitable. Alternatively, you can use a fire extinguisher, a tank from a truck, a small tank or a can of building fluids.

receiver

3. For the manufacture of the compressor, you will need three hoses: a pair of 10 cm and one 30-70 cm long (depending on the characteristics of the receiver). Automotive hoses are ideal, as they will be connected to their own, “native” filters.

4. Another hose or tube is required to connect the compressor to the air consumer. The material of the product, as well as its length, are determined by specific needs. If you plan to use the compressor with an airbrush, a thin polyvinyl hose will also work. The one that comes with the airbrush can also be used. If you plan to use the compressor outdoors, it is better to find a thicker hose.

To make a compressor, you will also need:

Clamps (5 pcs. 16 or 20 mm each);
Copper or iron 6 mm tubes, one at a time (the diameter may be larger, the main thing is that hoses fit on them). The length of the first tube is 10 cm, the second is 20-50 cm;
One filter per car (diesel and fuel);
Epoxy resin, soldering iron, welding machine;
Pressure gauge (optional);
Base for the receiver and motor (a wooden board of the appropriate size will do);
Steel tape;
self-tapping screws;
The next set of tools: screwdriver, drill, pliers, knife, metal file.

Making a refrigerator compressor

There are three tubes at the compressor outlet: sealed (the one that is shorter) and the other two are open. You need to figure out which one is the input and which one is the output. To do this, slide your finger over the inlets of the tubes, after connecting the compressor to the network. The one that blows out the air is the exit, the one that draws it in is the entrance. Unplug the compressor and note the position of the inlet and outlet.

Saw off a couple of tubes with a metal file, leaving at least 10 cm for easy connection of hoses. Alternatively, you can try to bite off the necessary part of the tubes with pliers. Most importantly, make sure that sawdust does not get inside.

Now the compressor needs to be fixed on a wooden base by screwing its legs with self-tapping screws. For a more secure fixation, we recommend using bolts. You need to fix the compressor in exactly the same position as it was done in the refrigerator. The fact is that the relay functions under the influence of gravity. After fixing the compressor on a wooden base, you can go directly to the receiver.

If a plastic container is used as a receiver, drill two holes in its lid for installing tubes and insert them there. Secure the tubes using epoxy resin. Leave outside (on top of the lid) 2-4 cm of tubing. Use a 10 cm tube as the outlet tube.

The second should be much longer and practically reach the bottom of the receiver. It is necessary to keep the inlet and outlet as far apart as possible - this will ensure the best mixing of air in the receiver itself.
For a metal receiver, you need to do the same, with the only difference being that the tubes need to be soldered or welded. Nuts can also be welded, and then hose fittings must be screwed into them.

The pressure gauge is installed only in the iron receiver.

Just drill a hole in it and solder (weld on) the pressure gauge. However, it will be more convenient to weld a nut into the hole, and screw the pressure gauge into it. So, if it breaks, it can be easily replaced with a new one.

Now you need to fix the receiver on a wooden base. Attach with steel tape, positioning directly next to the motor. Use self-tapping screws for this.

We go further - we put on a 10-centimeter hose on the gasoline filter. With the appropriate hoses (for a gasoline filter), there will be no difficulties, but polyvinyl pipes may have to be heated in order for them to fit on the filter. This can be done with a lit match or by holding them a little in boiling water. The other end of the hose must be put on the compressor inlet pipe. An inlet filter is required to filter dust. In this case, it is not necessary to use clamps on the connections: there is completely no pressure here.

Another piece of hose is needed to connect the "inlet" of the compressor to the "outlet" of the receiver. On their connections you need to put clamps.

We put one end of a 10-centimeter piece of hose on the outlet pipe of the receiver, the other on the diesel filter. Each of the filters has an arrow indicating the direction in which the air moves through them, so there will be no difficulty in connecting them correctly. The diesel filter, which is installed at the outlet, is necessary to filter water from the air.

The working hose connected to the airbrush must be put on the outlet fitting of the diesel filter.

Bottom on wooden base the rubber feet must be screwed on. Alternatively, felt linings can also be glued on. Otherwise, the vibrating compressor will scratch the floor during operation. The degree of vibration, as well as the noise emitted by the device, depends on the chosen model: those installed in imported refrigerators are practically silent, domestic ones are also relatively quiet, however, there are exceptions among them.

The pressure that the finished device will create also depends on its model. The older the motor, the higher its power. So, the good old Soviet compressors give out up to 2-2.5 bar, and some up to 3.5 bar.

Maintenance

The filters installed in the compressor need to be replaced frequently. Oil accumulating in the receiver must also be drained. Keep in mind that a key factor that affects the life of a homemade compressor is the regularity of oil changes. It is better to make the first replacement before assembling the device.

There is also a third tube on the motor, it is sealed. It is necessary to cut off its soldered end, turn the motor over and pour out the oil (a glass will be typed somewhere). Using a syringe, pour fresh engine oil into the tube, it should be a little more than what you just drained.

In order not to solder the tube through which you drained (filled) the oil again, simply screw a bolt into it, which can be easily unscrewed at the next oil change.

Today in everyday life there are many various kinds compressors for which various gases are used. It has the greatest popularity, which is also actively used by car owners for painting a car or pumping car wheels, since it is less convenient to use a manual pump for the same purposes. Next, we will consider how to make a compressor for painting a car yourself and what the procedure for its manufacture is.

DIY homemade compressor

Compressor motor and electronics. Click on photo to enlarge

A small hole is cut in the chamber itself, later a nipple will be located in it for electric or hand pump, which will be used to paint the car. At the entrance, it should be done with a nipple, while the second one is glued without a nipple, a sprayer will be connected to it. The degree of air compression is subject to fine adjustment empirically. To do this, an experimental batch of paint is sprayed onto the surface of the wall or any other. After a suitable pressure level is found, the pump is disconnected, and it is important to make sure that the pressure has not changed.

It is also important to consider that the camera needs to be firmly fixed, since it will not be in a stable position on the floor. This option will allow you to create a simple tool with which you can easily fix minor flaws paintwork by car.

Homemade compressor with your own hands. Option 2

This case involves using a tube car tire (or tube itself) as well as a pump.

Homemade compressor. Click on photo to enlarge

In this case, using a chamber with or without a tire depends on how much pressure you need to get from a homemade car. A small hole is cut in the chamber, into which another nipple is glued (raw rubber is quite suitable for this). One nipple must be equipped with a nipple for air injection, and a hose from the sprayer is attached to the second (outlet).

The pressure is regulated by a barometer built into the pump. Next, you need to spray paint on the wall to determine the required pressure. After that, slightly unscrew the hose from the pump so that during pressing the pressure of the sprayer does not noticeably change. The exception is autopumps with a built-in bleeder, in which case the pressure will be constant.

Manufacture of complex compressors. Method 1

For the manufacture of complex compressor you can use any electric motor from the refrigeration device (if it burns out, then only the piston mechanism needs to be used).

An example of a small compressor. Click on photo to enlarge

To extract it, the body is cut in two places with a hacksaw, and then the fixing bolts are unscrewed and the stator and pump with the rotor are removed.

Due to the fact that there is no need for a rotor, it can be knocked off the crankshaft, but if the design is equipped with a belt drive to the pump, then pulleys with prismatic keys, fixed with M6 bolts, are put on the pump crankshaft and motor shaft tails.

Keyways need to be milled on all shafts and can also be drilled using an optional 14mm bore bushing. It is put on over the shank, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled exactly along the joint, then the sleeve is removed. In cross section, the keyways have a semicircular shape, so the keys should be given the same shape.

How to make a frame for a structure?

The compressor frame can be made using two channels tied with crossbars from steel plates on screws. The pump is fixed to the frame with four bolts with bushings (their height can be adjusted directly on site), after which the motor is mounted on the base plate.

The frame allows the V-belt to be tensioned by moving it along the adjustment holes. If the air tube is long enough, then there is no need to use a receiver - it can be used as an oil sump.

Manufacture of complex compressors. Method 2

Compressor device. Click on photo to enlarge

For this method of making a homemade compressor for painting, an empty five-liter cylinder is useful for gas stove. Take the receiver, compressor and wheels, they must be fixed on the base. The frame can be welded using rectangular tubes with a cross section of 40x25 mm, and in the absence of a pipe, steel corners can be used. We attach wheels to the base for ease of movement of the structure. To adjust the pressure in a working compressor from a refrigeration device, visual control is required using a pressure gauge.

It is also important to set the limiter at a suitable level. A nipple, a pressure gauge and two fittings (one for the inlet, the other for the outlet) are combined by a base on a solid metal bar with four drilled holes, which are connected in one channel. The holes should be threaded for each element. The block itself is fixed with two screws on the surface of the frame. Thus, compressed air is sent to the receiver through the hose.

A slightly shortened valve can be left in the used gas cylinder. The valve should be removed from it, replacing it with a copper tube. From the inside, a PVC pipe leading to the bottom of the receiver should be put on it. With its help, moisture and oil vapors are separated.

In order for the condensate to drain from the receiver, a plugged hole must be made in the bottom, for this an M8 nut is welded and a bolt is tightened. Welding can only be started after all residual explosive gas has been expelled from it. To do this, it must be filled with water. Second copper tube located in threaded hole M6 in the valve, transfers air to the splitter, which transfers it directly to the consumer (to the spray gun, to the camera, to the ball, etc.) To start the engine, you can use a standard start relay, pre-attached to the frame. When painting with a gun, you can direct moisture vapor into the hose using a fine fuel filter for a car, it has the ability to retain moisture. Also, before starting work, it is important to check if there is any condensate in the receiver. Ready-made compressor for painting cars is almost silent and very compact.

Making complex compressors with your own hands. Method 3

Scheme of the compressor unit. Click on photo to enlarge

The role of the main mechanism in this version is played by a two-cylinder compressor from ZIL-130. The muffler from the KrAZ car will serve as the bearing and forming part. In design, it is a receiver. Attached to it simple frame from a corner 35x35 mm, on which corners and mechanisms are located.

Under the receiver there are several crossbars and the aforementioned corners, they are connected to the frame with studs, self-orienting wheels are attached to the ends.

Stage I

To convert the muffler from KrAZ into a receiver for compressor unit it is necessary to weld the inlet and outlet holes with plugs, then drill several holes for the M14x1 mm thread on the outlet, and screw two fittings on the sealant into them. Initially, an intermediate receiver based on an oxygen cylinder is mounted.

Its task is to absorb moisture and oils contained in compressed air. In order for it to work more efficiently, it is necessary to equip a threaded drain hole at the bottom of the device, and then block it with a sealed plug. In this case, the balloon can be removed.

Stage II

The compressor drive uses a three-phase electric motor alternating current. Suitable power is 1kW with 1380 rpm. with the windings attached to it in the form of a triangle. It should be converted to work with household power supply (voltage 220 V), but ideally the motor should be single-phase. In order for it to easily start and not overheat, it must be equipped with a starting and working capacitor bank, and then connected according to the indicated scheme.

The launch box can be used from washing machine. The engine should be started as follows: we press the button for connecting the starting battery of capacitors, and then the main starting one on the switch. After the engine reaches nominal speed, you can release the starter battery button. You can stop the engine with the stop button.

Stage III

The capacity of the working capacitor bank should be selected so that the engine does not overheat even during prolonged use. For one kilowatt motors, a capacitance of 25 microfarads is suitable. The capacity of the starting batteries in this case should be in the range from 70 to 100 microfarads. The basic criterion is a quick set of engine speeds. The breakdown voltage of all capacitors must be at least 300V. For better cooling, an impeller of six blades of our own manufacture is installed on the motor shaft. With the help of a V-belt transmission with a threefold reduced speed, rotation is transmitted to the compressor eccentric from the electric motor.

Reducing the power consumption of the drive, and thereby facilitating its operation, can be achieved by redesigning the compressor. To do this, instead of a regular head, equipped with only two exhaust valves, it is necessary to install a duralumin plate on four valves (two intake and two exhaust). The compressor is connected to the transfer case and the receiver using pipelines. They are made of aluminum with a bore diameter of 6 mm. It is fixed with standard aviation fittings, tees, elbows and union nuts with bushings. The transfer box can also be made independently.

For this, an aluminum bar is taken with a one-sided blind longitudinal hole with a diameter of 10 mm. A receiver tube will be connected to it through a fitting. It is also necessary to make three more holes: one on the side and two on top. A pressure gauge is installed in one upper hole, in the other - safety valve. It should be adjusted to a pressure limit of 4 kg/cm2 (4 atm). AT side hole a pipe for the outlet of compressed air is mounted.

Classic layout of components and parts

This arrangement is used in all domestic household appliances. A large and voluminous receiver is used as a base for assemblies and parts. It is also used to pair motor-compressors. Under it adapts an empty cylinder of liquefied gas for 50 liters. Such a cylinder is designed for 16 atm.

Stage I

The remaining propane is removed from the cylinder, for this the valve is unscrewed, the cylinder is placed “on the priest”, and above it is a water tank. Using a thin rubber hose with a metal tube at the tip, the balloon is filled with water. It displaces gas and all kinds of liquids contained in propane from it in order to be able to detect gas leaks. The support ring is removed from the balloon. First, it can be sawn crosswise, and then bend the edges until they break off along the weld. This procedure will make the product look more aesthetic.

Stage II

Before you start welding work, the cylinder must again be put “on the priest” and filled with water to the top. The vapors that are generated during welding will be cooled as they rise through the water. A supercharger should be placed on top of a cylindrical, horizontally located receiver. It consists of twin motor-compressors on a sub-frame made of a 30x30 mm corner, a relay, a starter and a terminal block are also placed there. A handle is welded on one of the edges, it can be bent out of water pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, this will help in moving the unit.

To do this, you can also bring the chassis, under the handle of one edge, install a drain in the form of an inverted letter "P", on the other edge - similar, but with a chassis. The first is made using a steel corner 30x30 mm, the second (additional) - from a corner with dimensions 40x40 mm. Crossbars, corner brackets designed for holes for wheel axles should be welded to it along the edges. On the inside brackets, it is necessary to weld M8 nuts, they are used to fasten axles from identical M8 bolts.

Stage III

A hole with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled on the side of the cylinder. An inlet fitting is welded to it in the form of a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. One of the outlets of the tee is attached to it with a hose, the other two outlets are connected by similar high-pressure oxygen hoses to the outlet pipes of all motor-compressors. On connections, tees, hoses and fittings are tightened with clamps.

To remove water and oil from the cylinder during use, it is necessary to weld a short threaded fitting on the tip at the bottom of the cylinder. A hole is drilled in the wall along the inner diameter of the pipe, and the fitting itself is “silenced” using a screw-on plug. The brass valve on the cylinder needs to be improved, so a hole must be drilled at the base of the part and an M14 thread cut into it. A pipe should be screwed in there, and a pressure gauge should be attached to it with a special nut. The second branch pipe must be screwed into the outlet of the valve, after which the consumer hose must be connected to it.

A self-made compressor, in particular, its electrical part, in this case consists of a starter and starting windings taken from a washing machine, a shutdown relay and a wire connection terminal block. The latter can be taken from fluorescent lamp daylight. All of the above is mounted on a board of five-millimeter textolite and mounted on the top of the cylinder. One end of the board must be leaned on the stick of the frame of motor-compressors, the second - on another support post welded to the surface of the cylinder.

Power is supplied from a household alternating current network (voltage 220V). Wiring diagram and separate starters, depending on the amount of compressed air consumed, allow you to turn on both motor-compressors at the same time or one of the two. It will allow you to create a high-quality and durable unit with your own hands. Below, in the diagram, a compressor is shown with a valve from the design of the liquid cooling of the Moskvich car instead of a valve.