How to connect 2 plastic windows. Window accessories: how to make a smart climate control and security system based on a simple frame
A metal-plastic window is a rather complex design. Consider the basic terminology that window makers use when typing window and door structures, adding various options and product parameters.
PVC profile
Material produced by extrusion, with a given shape and cross-sectional dimensions, having a 3-, 4-, 5-, 6-chamber structure.
Reinforcing profile
Steel profile, which is located in the middle chamber of the PVC profile and is necessary to give the window structure the required rigidity.
Camera (profile)
A closed cavity (system of cavities) inside the PVC profile of a plastic window in which air serves as additional thermal insulation.
Frame
PVC profile, which is the main (bearing) in the design.
sash
The opening window element. It can be rotary, tilt-and-turn or folding (transom).
vestibule
The junction of the sash with the frame, impost or with the sash.
Hardware groove
Groove in the sash profile for fittings.
Impost
It serves as a frame divider into segments in which a sash can be installed, or the door can be deaf (there are horizontal, vertical and beveled imposts). Also, the impost can be installed in the sash (in this case, there are nuances described in technological restrictions).
Shtulp
A plastic profile that is attached to one of the sashes and serves to fit these sashes together. One sash is dependent on the other when opening and does not have a window handle.
Bead
Serves to hold a double-glazed window or a sandwich plate in the structure.
Falz
The surface of the profile, which is the support for the installation of fittings or double-glazed windows. The sash has an inner rebate (for double-glazed windows) and an outer one (for fittings). In the frame and impost there is only a fold for the installation of double-glazed windows.
Seam linings
Plastic elements with which double-glazed windows are installed in the structure.
sealant
A product made of elastic materials (rubber, rubber compounds) for sealing joints in PVC structures. Usually all profiles are already supplied with an extruded seal.
Extension profiles
Special profiles that allow you to increase the width of the frame.
Connection profiles
Profiles designed to connect several PVC structures located in one opening.
Corner connector(square)
PVC profile is predominantly rectangular in shape, used to connect the frames of the structure at a right angle.
Bay profile (variation)
A plastic window profile that allows you to choose the angle of location of plastic window frames joining each other from 90 to 180 degrees on semicircular, triangular or multifaceted glazed ledges in the building wall.
Connecting bar
Thin PVC profile, with which you can connect the frames of structures without significantly increasing their overall dimensions (3-5mm).
Bone (static)
Connecting profile about 20 mm wide with mandatory reinforcement. It serves to connect the frames of structures at a considerable height, to give rigidity.
double glazing
The translucent part of the window. Depending on how many glasses are used, single-chamber (two glasses and one camera between them) and two-chamber (three glasses and two cameras) double-glazed windows are distinguished. Mostly single-chamber double-glazed windows with a total thickness of 24mm and two-chamber - 30-32mm are used. The double-glazed window is filled with air or inert gas.
Configuration (formula) of a double-glazed window
Description, reflecting the number, thickness of glasses, their type and the distance between the glasses in the double-glazed window of a plastic window. At the beginning and at the end of the formula is the thickness of the glass.
Chamber (double-glazed window)
The space inside the double-glazed window of a plastic window, limited by glass.
remote frame
An element of a double-glazed window that serves as a spacer between individual panes. Usually the spacer is made of aluminum, less often steel, PVC or other materials.
I-glass (i-glass, energy-saving glass)
Glass with a soft selective coating that improves the heat-saving properties of the double-glazed window. Delays infrared (thermal) radiation.
Argon
An inert gas used to fill the insulating glass of a plastic window.
sandwich plate
An opaque panel that installs instead of a double-glazed window. In terms of its characteristics, it surpasses double-glazed windows in terms of thermal insulation, consists of high-density expanded polystyrene and is lined on the outside with hard plastic.
Glass tinted
Glass that has been given a specific color by introducing dyes during the glassmaking process (tinted in bulk) or by applying coatings (special tinted films) to the surface of the glass.
accessories
These are the mechanisms and details that ensure the opening of the sashes (handle, hinges, locking mechanisms, latches, decors).
balcony latch
A piece of plastic construction fittings that allows you to fix the balcony door in the closed position without turning the handle of the balcony door (mainly used from the side of the balcony).
Incorrect (erroneous) opening blocker
Prevents the handle from turning into tilt mode when the sash is already in tilt mode, so that the window or door does not hang on one hinge (which can damage them).
children's castle
Allows you to block the rotary function of the sash, but leaves the possibility to tilt it (to limit children's access to the open window).
A loop
Detail of the fittings of a plastic window on which the sash is attached to the frame.
Microlift
Allows you to lift the sagging sash when closing, unloading the hinges. Creates additional support for the sash.
Micro-ventilation (slit ventilation)
Small gap when turning handle 45 degrees. The micro-ventilation mechanism is installed only in the swing-out doors.
Stepwise ventilation
It makes it possible to fix the inclination (tilting) of the sash in 4 positions. Achieved by simple manipulation with a window handle. The step-by-step ventilation mechanism is installed only in tilt-and-turn sashes.
Shprossy
These are decorative items. Shpross is installed inside the double-glazed window.
mosquito net
Interferes with penetration of insects into the apartment or the house through a pvc window. It looks like a neat element on pvc windows, which can be removed if desired. The mosquito net is attached to the outside of the pvc plastic windows.
Blinds
A light-shielding structure consisting of horizontal or vertical rotating plates that allows you to adjust the light and air flows passing through the plastic windows.
Visor
The element of the product is designed to drain water (installed above the structure from the outside).
Low tide
The element of the product is designed to drain water (installed under the structure from the outside).
Windowsill
The horizontal part of the inner frame of the window opening, laid at the level of the lower part of the frame.
Opening (window, mounting)
An opening in the wall for the installation of one or more window blocks, the design of which also provides for the installation of a mounting seal, slopes, ebbs, window sills.
Slope
Part of the window opening located between the window unit and the wall surface. After installing window blocks, it is most often necessary to finish the slopes. This can be done with the help of plaster mixtures, or gypsum boards, PVC foam, more often a sandwich panel is used. It is possible to install the finishing of arched slopes.
Lamination (color)
For "color windows" there are so-called lamination films. They are applied to the profile using special equipment on one of the sides of the profile (or both). Such a film can imitate the structure and color of various types of wood, or be colored monophonic. Lamination significantly affects the cost of a metal-plastic structure.
Roller shutters
Rigid aluminum movable structure that can be installed as a replacement for the grate.
Heat transfer coefficient
The value of heat flow through a unit area of the structure with a temperature difference between the external and internal environment of one degree. The higher the coefficient, the better the design retains heat. The highest rates are provided by 5 and 6 chamber PVC profiles and double glazing with I-glass.
Dismantling
Extraction from the window opening of the old structure before installing a new one.
Installation
Installation of the structure in the opening with subsequent fixing of the window (mainly on anchors, anchor plates and polyurethane foam).
Mounting depth
The technological depth of the frame, what we call the thickness of the window in everyday life. This is the distance between the surface of the frame facing the street and the surface facing the inside.
Mounting gap
The distance between the wall and the structure frame. It is filled with heat-insulating materials (foam), further subjected to finishing.
anchor plate
A fastener used to pre-fix plastic windows in a window opening.
Anchor
Type of dowel used in the installation of metal-plastic structures. When installing the window structure on the anchor, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed windows.
So now we'll take a quick look at multiframe structures. What it is?
A multi-frame structure is a structure that consists of two or more window or door frames that are interconnected using a special profile into one structure.
This is done mainly in order to bring together windows of different heights. In 90 percent of cases, this is a connection between a door and a window.
As an example, look at the following photo.
Here you see a classic connection, a window and a balcony door are connected.
In the second photo you can see it in a closer view.
Under the number 1 is the door frame, 2 the connector itself (kopplung) and its visible, outer part, 3 is naturally the window frame. (4 is the corner that closes the space between the old window sill and the new window. Has nothing to do with this post. About this I'll talk later.)
So, each plastic window has special cutouts in the profile on the side, which help to connect to the window either expanding profiles, or a connector, or compensating profiles. Profiles are snapped into these cutouts.
And here is the connector itself.
The connector consists of three parts. Number 1 indicates a plastic profile (there are 2 of them in the connector) which actually provides the connection itself. In this case, the protrusions indicated under the number 3 must go into the corresponding grooves on the connected frames when connected. Number 4 is the outer part of this profile.
In order for the connection to be stable and ensure the stability of the structure to be joined, a reinforcing metal profile (number 2 in the figure) is required, which is inserted between the plastic profiles. But in order to provide thermal insulation, a heat-insulating tape is glued on the connector, naturally, on both sides, as shown in the figure under the number 5.
How to connect two windows together?
First of all, at least two people are needed in order for the installation of this structure to pass without problems. Believe my experience, one person will spend 3-4 times more time than two. And this is not to mention the danger of some problems during assembly.
In order to connect two windows, we assemble the connector and mount it on a frame of a lower height, making sure that the connector fits snugly and without distortion into the grooves on the frame, if necessary, you can knock on the metal, in any case not on a plastic profile. After making sure that the connector is installed correctly, we drill a hole in the metal profile and screw the fixing screw into the frame. One will suffice as its function is temporary. It is needed only so that the connector remains in place during the assembly of the entire structure.
Now you can install the frame with the connector in the window opening. Then the second frame is installed and pulled together with clamps from the first. If the plastic profiles do not fit into the grooves of the second frame, then you can tap lightly on the frame with a hammer. Just be careful, in cold weather the plastic becomes more brittle and can be damaged. In any case, I recommend, if possible, either a hammer with a plastic tip or a wooden one.
At the next stage, after making sure that the connector is installed correctly (In order to check whether the connector is installed correctly, it is enough to measure the distance from the connector to the edge of the frame. Top, bottom and in the middle. The distance should be the same everywhere.) you can proceed to fixing the connection . To do this, using a long drill, we drill the frame, the connector and the second frame to the depth of the screw (we use screws 5 mm thick and 100 mm long) as shown in the photo. The diameter of the drill is preferably a little larger than the screw. For example 5.5 or 6 mm. If necessary, when twisting the connection, apply a little industrial grease to the screw.
We screw in the screws.
If you are connecting a window to fixed glazing and drilling from the side of the window, then do not forget
sink the screw under the surface of the frame otherwise you will have problems installing the glass.
That's probably all. A couple more tips when measuring, consider the thickness of the connector plus a couple of centimeters of free space, depending on the thickness of the connector, so that you can connect the windows freely and without problems.
And secondly, if you connect the windows in a horizontal plane, and not in a vertical one, as I described to you, then you do not need a temporary screw.
Tool:
Perforator, screwdriver, hammer, screwdrivers, construction knife, gun for laying polyurethane foam.
Materials:
Sandwich panel for slopes, window sill and plugs to it, window sill, mounting foam, sealant, vapor barrier tape, vapor-permeable tape, PSUL, frame anchor, galvanized metal self-tapping screw.
How to properly measure a window?
In order to order a window block, it is necessary to measure the window opening correctly.
Consider measuring an opening with a quarter (this is such a ledge, found in panel and block houses).
First, let's measure the width of the opening (size A) from the side of the street. Using a feeler gauge, make several control measurements of a quarter (dimensions B1 and B2) ( rice. one)
Determine the inner width of the window opening: WITH= B1 + A + B2
measure size H from low tide at the point of contact with the frame (point M) to the upper quarter. Using a feeler gauge, make several control measurements of the upper quarter (size B3) ( rice. 2).
Determine the estimated height of the window opening: Y \u003d H + B3
Determine the width of the window block ( rice. 3).
If size V< 40 мм
C - (2 × 20) mm
If size H > 40 mm(Fig. 1), then the width of the window block = A + (2 × 25) mm, where 24 mm is the optimal value of the frame for a quarter.
Determine the height of the window block ( rice. 2)
If size AT 3< 40 мм
, then the height of the window block = U - 20 mm, where 20 mm is the optimal mounting clearance.
If size H3 > 40 mm, then the height of the window block = H + 25 mm, where 25 mm is the optimal value of the frame for a quarter.
There is no quarter in the window block, how to measure?
Measure from the side of the street. If there is a layer of plaster, set the thickness of the layer with a narrow screwdriver ( rice. 4, 5)
Determine the dimensions of the window block:
Window block width = A - (2 × 20) mm,
where 20 mm is the optimal mounting clearance ( rice. 4)
Window block height: = H - 25 mm (rice. 5).
Measurement of ebb and window sill
L ext. from. - the length of the outer slope, L ex. - tide length
B ext. from. - depth of the outer slope, B ex. - tide depth
L int. from. - the length of the inner slope, L under. - window sill length
B int. from. - the depth of the inner slope is equal to the width of the window sill, if it deviates from the inner edge of the wall by 50 mm
H open - height of the inner slope
L b.p. = H out. + 50 mm - side panel length (2 pieces needed)
L c.p. = L int. open + 100 mm - the length of the top panel (need 1 pc.)
L int. open - length of the inner slope
B n. (the depth of the slope panel is) = B int. open (internal slope depth)
Preparing for installation
Removing the window sash:
Remove decorative trims from hinges.
Put the handle in the "turn" position and open the sash.
Pull the top hinge pin down with a screwdriver, overcoming the resistance. Holding the sash from falling out, tilt it towards you and, lifting it up, remove it from the lower hinge.
Install the sash in place in the reverse order. When returning the pin to its original position, it is necessary to fix it with a screwdriver.
Installation of mounting plates:
Install the plate parallel to the frame and rotate it by 90°, with the long end inside the room. Fix the plate with a self-tapping screw with a 4 × 35 mm drill.
Installation of a window block in a window opening.
Install the frame of the window block in the opening according to the diagram:
Using a plumb line and level, align the position of the frame vertically and horizontally. The maximum deviation is 1.5 mm per 1 meter, but not more than 3 mm for the entire height / width of the product in accordance with GOST 30674-99. At the same time, pre-fix the frame in the opening by wedging with mounting wedges and spacers.
Bend the plates to the working position and mark the holes for attaching the plates on the slope of the opening. With a pencil, mark the outline of the opening on the outside of the frame.
After removing the mounting wedges, remove the frame from the opening. Using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, drill holes for attaching the anchor plate. Insert nylon dowels with a diameter of 6 mm into the prepared holes. Clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust.
PSUL sticker:
PSUL is installed if the window opening has a quarter. If the window opening does not have a quarter, the outer seam is sealed after installing the window frame with special moisture-proof, vapor-permeable sealants. PSUL is attached with a self-adhesive layer. Stick PSUL directly on the outside of the frame at a distance of 3-5 mm from the markings (Fig. 7) in compliance with the following requirements:
cut PSUL along the length with an allowance for overlap in places of corner joints to the width of the tape. It is allowed to join the tapes along the length with an overlap of at least 25 mm.
Fixing the window block in the opening
Install the frame in the window opening, using mounting wedges, according to scheme No. 3, checking the position of the frame with a plumb line and level.
Fasten one side plate with 5×60 mm screws into pre-installed dowels. Re-check the correct position of the frame with a plumb and level. Check the difference in the lengths of the diagonals of the frame of the installed structure:
With a diagonal length of 1 to 2 m, the difference in the lengths of the diagonals should not exceed 2 mm, with a diagonal length of more than 2 m, the difference should not exceed 4 mm.
Fasten the rest of the plates.
Remove all mounting wedges, except for the lower and diagonal ones, according to diagram No. 3.
Install the sashes on the fixed frame, close the sashes and put the handles in the “closed” position.
When installing a balcony block, check the frames of the door and the adjacent window for the absence of mutual deflection by measuring the transverse dimensions according to the diagram.
Foaming.
Moisten the slopes with a spray gun or a paint brush for better adhesion of the mounting foam.
Foam the seam around the perimeter:
- If the joint width is not more than 45 mm, foaming is done in one step;
- If the joint width is from 45 mm to 70 mm, foaming is carried out in several stages;
If the joint width is more than 70 mm, an appropriate "window expander" must be used.
Stand Profile
On the outer side of the window block along the support profile, lay one layer of foam.
Installing a window expander.
Additionally you will need:
For expander 25 mm
- self-tapping screws with a drill 4×40 mm;
For expander 40 mm
- self-tapping screws with a drill 4×55 mm
Stick PSUL on the outer part of the frame of the window block. Pull the expander with the frame with a self-tapping screw.
Connection of 2 window blocks or a window block and a balcony door
Additionally you will need:
metal drill 4 mm, universal silicone sealant, self-tapping screws with a drill 4 × 50 mm
Drill holes in the frame of the 1st window unit at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other.
Stick PSUL on the outer part of the frame of the 2nd window block. Fill the outer outer groove of the frames with universal silicone sealant. Insert the connectors into the outer grooves of the frames. Pull the frames with self-tapping screws through the drilled holes
waterproofing tape sticker
After the foam has hardened in the lower outer part of the window block, cut off the foam so that it does not interfere with the installation of the ebb.
On top of the cut foam, stick a waterproofing tape with an overlap of 10-20 mm on the outer part of the wall.
Final improvements
After the foam has hardened, cut off the excess foam protruding from the seam. Cut the vapor barrier tape according to the length of the installation joint. Remove the protective film from the self-adhesive layer and glue the tape along the entire length of the inner seam.
Next steps:
- Install the outflow from the street side, leading it into the groove in the lower part of the frame, and attach it with 4 × 25 self-tapping screws to the support profile. Install a window sill from the side of the room.
- Remove the protective film from the frame and doors.
- Install plastic slopes from the side of the room or plaster the slopes of the window opening.
- If necessary, adjust the hardware.
Install decorative trims on the hinges.
How to properly install windows in a wooden house, we will describe in the next article.
A modern metal-plastic version of the balcony door and window creates a beautiful view and comfortable conditions. The installation of a balcony block consists of a number of simple operations, it requires attention to detail, but in general the process is simple. If desired, a person who does not have professional skills in this area can perform this work.
Balcony PVC block consists of a balcony door and a window. There are different variations of this combination. For example, a window is located to the right or left of a door. Possible option: a balcony door between two windows.
Each of the elements of the block can, in addition to the swing opening mechanism, also have a folding one. There are also blind windows that do not open.
The kit includes:
- slopes,
- low tide,
- threshold,
- windowsill,
- accessories.
If we consider what a balcony door consists of, this is a box and a door leaf. The window has a frame and sashes.
Preparatory work
You should free up space from unnecessary things and furniture so that you can install a new design, cover with a film what cannot be taken out of the room to avoid construction debris and dust.
To carry out the installation of a balcony block, you should prepare a place for it by dismantling the old structure.
- Remove window sashes and door panels.
- To remove the wooden frame, it should be sawn at the bottom with a hacksaw. After that, remove it in parts from the opening, prying it with a crowbar.
- Remove the plaster from the slopes, if any, using a perforator.
- Clean off the remains of seals, insulation, mounting foam from the surface of the opening using a brush.
If the previous design was also a metal-plastic balcony block, then its dismantling begins with the removal of all fasteners, screws, linings from the frame after removing the inside of the doors and windows.
The opening should be freed from finishing to the main wall.
Step-by-step installation of a balcony block
To work on installing a balcony door and window, you will need tools:
- Bulgarian,
- foam gun,
- jigsaw,
- roulette,
- screwdriver,
- level,
- perforator,
- rubber mallet.
- drill,
- stationery knife,
- hammer,
- square,
- marker,
- metal scissors,
- mount.
Assembling the balcony block
Before installing a plastic balcony block, you should connect the door structure and the window structure into one. To do this, it is necessary to put the window unit with the balcony door on the upper sides, dock the side parts. Between them should be placed connection bar. It is necessary to check well that the upper sides of the frames that are on the floor are in line. For this operation, you must select a flat surface.
Tip: If the window has a movable sash, it must be removed for convenience during installation. In the door balcony block, you need to remove the door from the hinges.
Two sets are connected with screws. For them, holes are made in advance at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other in the frame of the door block and the structures begin to twist from its inside. After that, a single balcony block is obtained.
Choosing fasteners
The balcony block can be attached using:
- pins,
- anchor plates,
- anchor bolts.
Each type of fastening has its own advantages and disadvantages and can be chosen for work.
Tip: Choose anchor plates for fastening. In this case, installation can be carried out without separating the frames and double-glazed windows.
Preparing the balcony block for installation
Mounting plates are fixed on the two side and upper horizontal surfaces of the frame. They are attached with screws. Fifteen centimeters recede from the corners of the structures and install the plates so that they are turned towards the inside of the block. Between the extreme plates it is necessary to attach the intermediate ones at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 cm from each other. Skip the screw in the middle of the block width into the profile recess.
A PSUL tape is glued around the perimeter of the block from the outer edge. This is a sealing element prescribed by the regulations in order to protect the mounting foam from moisture and ultraviolet rays.
If provided, at this stage brackets are screwed onto the window for its fastening. They try on the mesh so that it evenly covers the opening, mark the installation locations for the brackets and attach them with screws.
Mounting sequence
Consider how to install a balcony block with your own hands:
- If the kit includes a threshold, then you can immediately begin the installation of the unit. If it is missing, you should start the installation with it.
It is recommended to use plastic mounting wedges rather than wooden ones. - The block is placed on stands (mounting wedges), which remain in place after completion of work, are not removed. They are provided for each vertical element of the block. In order to orient the structure in space strictly vertically and horizontally (transverse elements), stands of different heights are used.
- Temporary fixation in the opening is also done using mounting wedges.
- Check the level of the correct location in the planes: horizontal and vertical. Wedges make error correction. They are convenient to use as a pair of elements. The building level is placed on the horizontal element of the block. If necessary, correct - wedges are knocked in the right direction with a hammer. After that, a level is applied to the vertical component of the block and its location is adjusted with wedges that are installed on the left and right between the block and the wall.
- Now fix the block by fastening pre-prepared plates. They are carefully unbent and pulled up to the wall so as not to move the block adjusted in space. To fix the plate through the hole in one of them, a hole is drilled in the wall with a perforated drill, eight centimeters deep.
Screw a screw into this hole with a screwdriver, attaching the plate to the wall. And so all the prepared mounting plates are sequentially fixed.
Installing a low tide for an open balcony
- From the ebb blank, a part is cut with scissors for metal along the intended line, which corresponds to the width of the window.
- From the side of the balcony, a drain pattern is installed, screwed to the profile from the installation kit with screws.
- On the outside of the window opening, you can optionally install decorative corners. The gaps in the connection between the drain and the wall are filled with sealant on both sides.
Filling gaps with mounting foam
In accordance with the regulations, the upper horizontal seam should not exceed twenty millimeters in width, and the side seams between the block and the wall can be up to fifty-five millimeters, depending on the size of the structure. From the side of the room it is necessary fill the gaps with mounting foam, leaving one third of the space free. This will be the technological gap that the foam will occupy after solidification and expansion.
In order for the foam to pass all the necessary technological stages, the seams are left alone for a day. After that, the excess of hardened foam is cut off with a special knife. A high-quality seam should not have voids in its structure.
Installing additional parts
Do-it-yourself installation of a balcony block is almost complete. It remains to refine the details.
Window sill device
The window sill is adjusted in size so that it fits well under the window. Its width should allow it to be pushed two centimeters behind the window frame when installed.
Pieces of wood should be made into bars, which are placed under the part to be installed in order to avoid its deflection. The bars are sized to provide a window sill angle of two degrees.
A load is placed on the element, and then the joints are filled with mounting foam. The load is needed so that the hardening foam does not lift the structure.
Filling the joints of the window sill:
- first at the junction with the window,
- sides,
- under the windowsill at the junction with the wall, but not to the very edge.
After a daily technological break, you can remove the load.
Internal slopes
The slopes on the balcony block can be plastered or a decorative detail can be installed - special internal slopes. Often the kit includes sandwich panels. They will make the appearance of the slopes modern and aesthetic, in addition, they will insulate the opening .. You will find the answer to it in our article.
Tips for organizing lighting on the loggia. You will learn how to conduct electricity to choose the right fixtures.
Sequence of work:
- The sections of the starting profile are prepared according to the size of the length of the upper frame and side surfaces.
- The blanks are fixed with screws around the perimeter of the block from three sides.
- Measure the required dimensions for the top panel and side parts.
- Cut out the panels to the desired size.
- The panels are inserted into the screwed starting profile, first the top part, and then the side elements.
- One edge of the panel is fixed in the profile, and under the part of the panel protruding into the room, a small amount of foam is sprayed into the gap between the element and the wall, slightly bending the structure and then pressing it into place against the wall. Until the foam hardens, the slopes at the design positions are held with masking tape. After a daily break, the adhesive tape is removed, the excess foam is cut off.
Decorative architraves
- Prepare platbands (F-profiles) of the required size.
- The parts are put on the ends of the decorative panels; in the corners, a connection should be made at forty-five degrees.
- The joints of the side and top panels, as well as the bottom of the side decorative elements with the window sill, are sealed with silicone sealant.
Installation of a balcony block video
Here is a video on the topic of our article on how to install a balcony block yourself. In it you will find useful tips from professionals.
