How to lay an OSB board on a wooden floor. How to make a floor from OSB with your own hands: sequence of works
Most of the types of flooring materials produced today, for installation, require the creation of a flat, solid foundation. In most cases, a concrete or sand-cement screed in the house is made as such. However, there is a worthy alternative, which is to install OSB boards on wooden joists. The end result is a solid, level rough subfloor suitable for any kind of flooring. What is special about the OSB slab, what can replace a concrete screed? This, as well as how to mount OSB on logs with your own hands, will be discussed in an article using information in video format.
Oriented strand board, material characteristics
For the first time such material began to be produced and used in the countries of North America. Soon, pressed particle boards were used and began to be produced in Europe. OSB consists of several layers of pressed coarse shavings of mainly coniferous wood, glued together. It is characteristic, and this is the feature of the material, that the chips in adjacent layers are mutually perpendicular. Thanks to this, the material is much stronger than wood at the same thickness, especially for bending. In addition to high strength, the material has a number of other positive characteristics, such as:
- light weight;
- convenience of cutting fragments of any shape;
- has thermal insulation qualities;
- the material is hardly flammable;
- not damaged by insects, rodents, microorganisms;
- there is the possibility of further surface treatment (grinding, varnishing or painting), which makes it possible, in some cases, to use the surface as a finishing floor covering.
According to the degree of moisture resistance, SALT slabs are of four types. For flooring, OSB 2 is used, which is intended for the installation of load-bearing structures in conditions of normal humidity, and OSB 3, which is applicable at high humidity. The second type is suitable for arranging the subfloor along the logs for further parquet and laminate flooring. It is better to use the third, moisture-resistant type of OSB board under linoleum, since condensation can form under it. The sub-floor made of moisture-resistant slab can even be used for laying tiles.
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The choice of the required thickness of the OSB-plate
So that the base of the floor, made with an OSB slab along the logs with your own hands, is in no way inferior in strength to the screed, the thickness of the sheets should be correctly selected and correlated with the step of the log. Compressed shavings are stronger than solid wood, so the ratio is somewhat different in this case.
For the floor, you can use sheets with a thickness of 9 mm. With this size of the slab, the step between the supporting bars should not exceed 25 cm.The thickness of 16 mm corresponds to a step of a log of 35-40 cm.A sheet with a thickness of 22 mm will not bend with a distance between the bars of up to 60 cm.When the bars step 80-90 cm, OSB thickness will be appropriate 25 mm.
Important! It should be noted that with an increase in the thickness of the sheet, its cost increases significantly. To calculate the most advantageous option for the ratio of timber / OSB sheet, several options should be compared. You can take into account the width of the insulation, respectively, the convenient distance (step) between the bearing bars, and in fact choose the required thickness of the slab.
The choice of timber for lag
The peculiarity of the flooring of the slabs is that in the places of their joining, the joists must be wide enough to securely fix both joining elements. Therefore, it is desirable that the width of the upper side of the log is at least 4 cm (preferably 5-6 cm). It should also be taken into account that it will be necessary to fix additional fragments of the timber (perpendicular to the lags) in the places of the longitudinal joining of the plates. As a lag, a timber from any coniferous wood of the second or third grade is quite suitable. Humidity should not exceed 20%. If the logs will be in high humidity conditions, it is advisable to choose a larch or aspen block. Before installing load-bearing wooden beams, they should be treated with antibacterial and moisture-repellent impregnations, which will significantly extend their service life.
How to make a do-it-yourself OSB-slab floor base
OSB sheets can be laid on logs installed on the ground floor and as interfloor partitions in private houses. This material is also used in apartments, when load-bearing wooden beams are installed on a rough screed or floor slabs. Differences will only be in the way of mounting the lag. From the point of view of flooring with your own hands, you can consider the simplest option, when the beams are installed with a certain step along a concrete or cement-sand screed.
To work, you need the tools listed below:
- jigsaw;
- hammer drill with 6 mm drill;
- screwdriver;
- a water level or a laser level (over a large area), or a spirit level of at least 1.5 m in length for small areas of the room;
- roulette;
- marker or pencil;
- hammer.
In addition to the main ones (OSB, timber for logs, insulation), you will need consumables, such as:
- quick-assembly dowels 6 cm X 6 mm;
- black self-tapping wood screws (length of self-tapping screws - plate thickness plus 25 mm);
- polyurethane foam;
- sealant (silicone).
The work begins with the installation of the lag. They are installed in parallel. Their step should be calculated so that the distance corresponds to the thickness of the slabs and the width (so that adjacent sheets fit well on the same lag). The bars closest to the wall should be at a distance of about 20 cm from it. In the places of longitudinal joining of the plates, transverse sections of the bars are additionally installed. When fixing the lags to the screed or slabs, their horizontality is regulated by wood chip pads.
Insulation is placed between the load-bearing bars. In its capacity, you can use polystyrene (polystyrene, penoplex), or mineral wool. The latter should be protected from moisture from the side of the rough screed, for which a vapor barrier membrane is used.
On the prepared frame made of beams, sheets of OSB are laid and attracted to the logs with self-tapping screws. First, you need to do the installation of whole plates, and then cut out the missing fragments with a jigsaw, having marked out the material in advance. OSB should not be laid close to the wall, but leaving small gaps of about 1 cm, which are necessary for the possibility of thermal expansion of the material. The resulting gaps are filled with polyurethane foam for sealing.
The joints between the slabs at their joints can be filled with silicone sealant, especially if tiles are supposed to be the finishing floor layer. To support the received information visually, you can watch this video
Important! A properly arranged base of the floor made of OSB slabs along logs (as in the video) is a durable structure that is in no way inferior in terms of its characteristics to a screed. After installing the slabs, you can immediately start laying the topcoat using the same technology as for the finishing screed. No additional treatment (priming, for example, or leveling) the surface made by OSB
For leveling floors, especially wooden ones, materials such as plywood and OSB boards are often used. However, there is still controversy regarding both types of building materials. Plywood or OSB - which is better for the floor? It's time to deal with this issue.
Each of these materials has certain characteristics and has specific requirements for the installation process. Of course, in many respects they are similar, and the purposes of their use are the same, however, each has its own advantages and disadvantages, which can limit the use of one or another material in a certain situation.
Both plywood and OSB board are used to create an even rough flooring, on top of which the main finishing coating is then mounted. At the same time, depending on the conditions, the flooring can be installed both on top of old wooden floors or on logs.
On a note! For the installation of any of these products using a lag, it is important to purchase a fairly thick material, and the bars for the lag should be at least 40 mm thick. Fasteners in this case are not made with glue, but with self-tapping screws, which are screwed along the entire floor with a step of about 10-15 cm.
To understand in which case what material to use, as well as to figure out which is better - plywood or an OSB board, you should familiarize yourself with these types of products for a rough finish.
Plywood - what is this material?
Plywood as a material is familiar to everyone. It consists of sheets made of wood veneer, which is connected to each other with the help of special adhesives and pressed. The result is a fairly solid and solid wood slab. As a rule, veneer is glued in at least 3 layers, the thickness of the material, its strength and reliability, as well as the possibility of operation will depend on their number. In this case, all layers are laid in such a way that the wood fibers in each of them are perpendicular to those in the previous layer. Thanks to this, the material acquires a certain elasticity and becomes stronger.
Coniferous wood veneer is usually used as a raw material. These are fir, spruce, pine, etc. However, there is plywood made on the basis of hardwood veneer.
On a note! Plywood can also be used as a finishing material. Usually, for finishing floors or creating any partitions, a product made of Siberian cedar or birch is used. Such plywood has a beautiful basic surface color.
Natural resins (which increases the safety and environmental friendliness of the material) or synthetic adhesives can be used as adhesive components. The latter increase the resistance of plywood to moisture. By the way, plywood, even on the basis of synthetic resins, if it is made with high quality and without breaking technology, does not pose a danger to human health.
The finished plywood sheet has a smooth surface without bumps and knots; it is well sanded on at least one side. Although plywood of the lowest grade can still have knots on the surface and be rough to the touch. Such a product is suitable only for the most rough work.
What is the best plywood to lay on the floor under the laminate? What to look for when choosing? How to lay the material with your own hands? We will answer these questions in detail in a special .
Plywood is often used to create formwork at different stages of the construction of buildings and structures, it is used in the manufacture of furniture, it is also suitable for leveling floors, arranging partitions, screens.
Table. Classification of plywood sheets.
| Class / Grade | Characteristic |
|---|---|
| The most expensive and highest quality type of plywood. Differs in high strength and surface excellent in appearance. There should be no defects on such material. It is excellent for creating floors, but due to the high price it is rarely used for these purposes. This is an elite option. |
| Good quality plywood with a minimum of defects. The maximum that can spoil the overall impression of the product is small cracks that can be easily fixed at home. This material is very easy to grind and practically does not need additional processing. |
| The material needs additional processing. He has not so many defects, but they are. It can be knots, light roughness to the touch. Excellent for creating a rough base, since the strength characteristics of such plywood are optimal, and the price is lower than that of the two previous classes. |
| This is the most inexpensive type of plywood, since such sheets have a lot of defects, ranging from a rough surface to the presence of knots and even holes. Such plywood comes out due to the use of low-quality raw materials in the production process. In the factory, it is usually not even polished or processed in any way. Such products are not recommended for installation of the base of the floors. |
Plywood prices
It is best to create a finishing one, of course, grade 1 plywood. The rest of the types can be used if the topcoat is laid. At the same time, it is not worth purchasing grade 4 if possible - such floors will not last long, and the quality of work may not be the best.
On a note! Plywood can withstand humidity 78% for 12 hours, 68% for quite a long time. Unprocessed plywood, on the other hand, can withstand a maximum of 60% moisture.
OSB (OSB) plate - what is it?
OSB - oriented strand board and translates as "oriented strand board (board)". This type of board is "younger" than plywood, it was developed precisely as its substitute at a time when it became difficult to find good plywood - it was a scarce material. During production, wood chips are used, which, thanks to resins and high pressure, are combined into a single structure.
In this sense OSB somewhat reminiscent of plywood, which also does not consist of a single piece of wood. The shavings used in the creation of boards have strictly defined dimensions: their length cannot be more than 1.8 cm, and their width varies from 0.6 to 4 cm. OSB board turns out to be very rigid and resistant to various factors. In general, the product is capable of withstanding a load of up to 100 kg / m³.
On a note! If the technology for the production of OSB boards was followed exactly, then the material is absolutely safe for humans. From an environmental point of view, these boards are much better than MDF, fiberboard, plywood and other similar materials.
OSB boards are a homogeneous material with a flat surface, free from defects in the form of voids and knots. In appearance, they can sometimes resemble natural wood. The thickness of the material varies from 6 to 38 mm, and most often sheets of 2500x1250 mm are on sale. Plates are often used to create a flat subfloor, as they are completely smooth to the touch and do not have various surface defects.
Prices for OSB / OSB boards
osb stove
OSB board types
There are several types, they differ from each other in technical indicators.
Table. Types of OSB boards.
| Type of | Description |
|---|---|
| OSB-1 | These slabs are more afraid of water than any other, since they have a weak ability to resist moisture due to their low density. They are also among the least durable. Usually this type is used only as a packaging material or to create furniture. It is not recommended to use such a slab for floors. |
| OSB-2 | Durable, but low moisture resistance material. It can be used for installation of floors in rooms with low humidity levels. |
| OSB-3 | The type, characterized by high moisture resistance and strength, is suitable for laying on floors in rooms where the moisture level is moderate or high. |
| OSB-4 | A stove of this type is not afraid of anything, it is capable of not losing its performance even in practically extreme conditions. |
OSB - texture
Also, OSB boards are divided into three types, depending on some characteristics. They are:
- laminated(usually used for the construction of formwork);
- varnished;
- grooved(have special spikes for connections).
Of course, outwardly, OSB looks mostly not as presentable as plywood, because of the chips visible on the surface, and therefore, as the topcoat is not used. But for a substrate for flooring it is perfect.
OSB and plywood - the advantages of materials
Plywood as a leveling material has the following advantages:
- she looks prettier;
- not prone to deformation;
- after a little wet it dries up and easily returns to its standard form;
- through cracks in the product cannot appear due to the special structure;
- the material is easy to process;
- the surface of the plywood is flat;
- it has been used for a long time without losing its characteristics.
The OSB plate also has a number of advantages, for which the masters appreciate it:
- relatively inexpensive material;
- may be of various sizes;
- resistant to moisture;
- durable;
- not prone to delamination.
OSB and plywood: material shortcomings
However, do not forget about the lack of materials. For example, it is still advisable not to pour plywood with water, because even after drying, this material can rot. And the OSB board is very dusty when cutting - much stronger than plywood. Also, both materials still, albeit in small quantities, emit formaldehyde into the air.
What criteria are taken into account in comparison
To determine which is better - plywood or OSB, they can be compared in terms of technical indicators with each other. For example, let's take two products 1 cm thick. In this case, the plywood will be made of coniferous veneer, and the OSB board will belong to class 3. Both of these options are relatively inexpensive, have a certain level of resistance to chemical attack and moisture, and are also environmentally friendly.
Oriented strand board OSB - 3 (OSB - 3)
Table. The ratio of the characteristics of plywood and OSB.
| Index | OSB | |
|---|---|---|
| Longitudinal bending strength | 26 N / mm2 | 47 N / mm2 |
| Density | 610 kg / cubic meter | 550 kg / m3 |
| Chipping resistance | 0.34 N / mm2 | 1.2 N / mm2 |
| Formaldehyde content | 7-8 mg / 100g | 5-6 mg / 100 g |
| Swelling in water during the day | 15% | 5% |
| Thermal conductivity | 0,13 | 0,12 |
What is better to put on the floor - plywood or OSB?
Based on the table above, we can conclude that OSB still reacts more strongly to water and will deteriorate faster than plywood in a humid room. It is better to lay plywood sheets in such a room. The thermal conductivity of the materials is almost the same, but the strength is much higher for plywood. By the way, it is the latter that will cost more than the OSB plate. And plywood is also a more environmentally friendly material than OSB board.
The OSB plate is very difficult to cut and at the same time very dusty - to cut a part of the required size, you may need several blades for a jigsaw, and it is extremely difficult to do this with a hand saw.
OSB does not crack, and plywood does not deform, OSB does not delaminate, and plywood does not shrink. There is a lot to talk about the pros and cons of the materials, however, thanks to the information described above, the following conclusions can be drawn:
- The OSB board can be installed in any room where there is no strong humidity. Where it is present, it is better to put plywood;
- where the use of durable material is required, it is advisable to lay plywood. Although under mechanical pressure, OSB has a higher strength;
- it is easier to use OSB in a curly room, since it comes in different sizes. However, plywood is easier to cut, and therefore, if there are non-standard corners in the room, it is advisable to use it;
- plywood is better attracted to the base, which will allow it to be laid as tightly as possible;
- in the children's room, from the point of view of environmental friendliness, it is better to mount a rough layer of plywood than of OSB.
Both plywood and OSB can serve as an excellent rough base for the floor, if correctly selected in accordance with the operating conditions. When repairing, it is recommended to use a minimum of scraps - it is better to use solid sheets. In the place where the permeability is maximum, a whole sheet is necessarily mounted. Both plywood and OSB can be installed both on a wooden floor and on a concrete base. And also on the logs, but depending on the thickness of the material used. During installation, glue or self-tapping screws can be used.
Floor mounting plywood
Consider how plywood is laid on a wooden floor.
Step 1. Inspection of the sub-floor is in progress. Rotten boards are replaced with new ones, old, but strong ones are additionally strengthened. The flatness of the surface is checked using the rule.
Step 2. If bumps were found on the surface, they are constrained by a plane. To prevent chips and dust from getting into the eyes, wear protective goggles.
Step 3. The base is cleared of construction debris, including sawdust or shavings. For this, a vacuum cleaner is often used - it will allow you to clean the surface as quickly and efficiently as possible.
Step 4. The base boards are covered with bio-fire protection means. They will protect the material from fire and the occurrence of points of decay and mold.
Step 5. Plywood sheets are also impregnated with the same protective agent. The sheets are dried within 12 hours.
Step 6. The rough base is covered with polyisol 5 mm thick. Polyisol sheets are held together with adhesive tape. The layer will provide additional sound insulation.
Step 7. The floors begin to be covered with plywood. The first sheet is placed in the corner, the rest of the sheets - close to it. There is a self-tapping gap between the plates.
Step 8. Near the upper corner of the outermost sheet, a nail is hammered into which the fishing line is screwed.
Step 9. The line is pulled to the opposite wall. Moreover, between the nail, to which it will be attached, and the wall parallel to it, there should be the same distance as where the plywood sheets have already been laid.
Advice! If you have a laser level, you don't need to use the line.
Step 10. The next sheet is laid and aligned with the line.
Step 11. If necessary, plywood sheets are trimmed in accordance with the measurements taken.
Step 12. Plywood sheets are attached to the sub-base using self-tapping screws 45 mm long and 4.5 mm thick. Self-tapping screws are screwed in with a step of 20-25 cm, an indent of 5 cm is made from the edge of the sheet. It is important to ensure that the heads of the screws are in the same plane with the plywood.
Thus, the entire floor surface is covered. Next, you can lay the topcoat.
Video - Laying plywood
Floor mounting OSB
Consider the installation of OSB sheets on a concrete screed.
Step 1. The surface is carefully prepared. All cracks are repaired, debris and dust are removed.
Step 2. The surface is treated with a primer to improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the substrate. The surface is dried for about 12 hours.
Step 3. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel to the rough base. Apply a layer of glue so that there is a small free space of about 1 cm to the wall.
Step 4. The OSB sheet is laid on the surface treated with glue. The sheet is carefully pressed down, the evenness of the laying is checked using a level.
Step 5. The next sheet is laid next to the previous one with a small gap - about 5 mm.
Step 6. If necessary, sheets of OSB are trimmed in accordance with the measurements.
Step 7. All OSB boards are stacked in the same way. All the gaps remaining between them, as well as those remaining between the wall and the plates, are sealed with silicone sealant.
Video - Laying OSB
In favor of what - plywood or OSB - to make a choice, everyone will have to decide independently, soberly assessing their financial capabilities and operating conditions of the material. After all, both plywood and OSB are good in their own way, both types have disadvantages. It remains only to decide where and how the coating will be laid.
OSB flooring is now very popular. It has many advantages and makes it possible to reduce the repair time. OSB is a highly compressed board that consists of several layers. The raw material for the production of this material is long chips (6-9 cm each), obtained from coniferous trees (pine, sometimes aspen). The strength of the OSB is ensured by the different orientation of the chips. For example, in the middle it is placed perpendicularly, and in the outer layers - along the length. Pressing is carried out under the influence of high temperature and pressure. At the same time, the material is impregnated with resins and waxes, which ensure its moisture resistance.
OSB has the following advantages:
- and processing.
- The sheet does not begin to crumble during sawing or drilling.
- No warping during operation.
- Homogeneous structure.
- Very high strength of sheets that can even replace wood-based materials. Please note that the material can withstand enormous loads if properly distributed.
- No knots.
- High degree of resistance to moisture.
- Long service life - about 20 years.
As you can see, OSB is an excellent material for arranging both rough and final floors.
OSB board production and application for joist flooring Types of material
Before you start working with sheets, you need to understand what they are:
- OSB - 1. This is the least strong and thinnest board. It can only be used in rooms where there is never an increase in air humidity.
- OSB - 2. Such sheets can be used for arranging load-bearing structures only in dry rooms.
- OSB - 3. This material is well suited for the arrangement of supporting structures in those rooms where the humidity level is often high. This type of product is most often used in construction.
- OSB - 4. Such sheets must be laid in those rooms where a very strong mechanical load is expected on the floor. The thickness of such a slab is maximum. In addition, the material is carefully processed with wax and resins, so it is absolutely not afraid of moisture.
Comparison of OSB with other wood-based materials
Specifications
Before buying an OSB, you need to consider its technical parameters:
- Resistance to moisture: depending on the type of coating, this parameter ranges from 12-25%. The slab with the smallest index is the most resistant to moisture.
- Mechanical strength. The most reliable slabs can be considered class 3 and 4. In general, the strength of the product along the transverse axis ranges from 1200-1800 N / troy, as black2, and along the longitudinal axis - 2500-4800 N / mm2.
- Product weight. One slab can weigh from 12 to 43 kg.
Table of characteristics of OSB-3 with different board thicknesses - Material thickness: 0.6-2.2 cm.
- Environmental friendliness: according to laboratory studies of various organizations, the content of harmful components in the product does not exceed the permissible limits.
The cost of the plate depends on its technical parameters and is 420-780 rubles. a piece.
How to choose the right product?
Before laying the OSB, you need to decide on the following parameters:
- Base type. The thickness of the material depends on this.
- Product size.
- Required qualities (for example, if you will be laying OSB in a dry environment, you may not need a quality like moisture resistance).
- Manufacturer. It is best to give preference to European, Canadian and North American manufacturers. Their products are certified by international organizations.
The use of OSB for finishing and rough flooring For the arrangement of floors, OSB - 3 is most often used.
How should the material be processed for different types of flooring?
OSB floors can be rough and finish. In the second case, the surface is simply sanded and varnished. Naturally, the gaps between the sheets should be invisible. If you decide to lay another facing material on top of OSB, then the base must be prepared in advance, depending on what kind of coating you will use:
- ... The base must be even, especially at the joints of the slabs.
- or . In this case, it is better to use thin slabs, which will make the transition between them smooth and almost invisible. Additionally, it is treated with a sealing agent. Please note that if one OSB sheet is laid on the floor, then the expansion gap is arranged from the side of the walls.
- ... When choosing such a facing material, it must be borne in mind that the base for laying it should be as strong and even as possible. Sheets should be fixed so that they are stationary. If you lay OSB on logs, then in this case they should be mounted at a short distance from each other.
Features of mounting a rough base
So, if you decide to use OSB slabs for equipping the subfloor, you need to decide on what you will lay them on: concrete or wooden logs. In any case, OSB - 3 will be the most acceptable material. If the basis for installation is a concrete screed, then the sheet thickness may not exceed 1 cm. In the case of laying on wooden logs, this parameter can reach a maximum of 2.5 cm. The material is attached to concrete at using dowels. You can fix it on a tree using self-tapping screws. Please note that the caps of the fasteners must be recessed into the plate. Thus, you will achieve perfect surface evenness. If you need to achieve maximum strength of the base, then the sheets should be laid in 2 layers. In this case, the seams in the lower and upper layers should not coincide.
During installation, pay attention to the quality of the joints. They need to be aligned and smoothed as much as possible. For this, an elastic sealant is used. Arrangement of the sub-floor is done as follows:
- To begin with, logs are mounted on the floor.
- Now you can screw additional bars to them (at the bottom). Their section should be 5x5 cm.
- The side that will be in contact with concrete or facing the ground must be additionally treated with an antiseptic or bitumen mastic (one layer is enough).
- Fastening plates. This can be done using special nails, screws or glue.
- ... It can be styrofoam or rock wool. Expanded clay can also be poured between the slab and the ground.
- Laying an additional OSB board, which will serve as the basis for subsequent cladding.
Subfloor cake from OSB boards Before laying the first layer of sheets, it is necessary to waterproof the floor.
You can also lay the material on a dry screed. The fill must first be aligned with the beacons. Further, it is necessary to mount a layer of OSB, on top of which the same sheets are laid, only with an offset of the seams. You can fix them using self-tapping screws, the pitch between which is 15 cm. Please note that the fasteners must be screwed along the edge of the second layer.
You can entrust the installation of floors to masters, professional builders. They will make the floors quickly and efficiently. True, it is far from cheap. You can save money by laying the floors yourself. Moreover, the flooring is not particularly complicated. You just need to carefully study the technology of their installation and apply the knowledge gained in practice correctly, in a certain sequence. Below we will talk about how to make OSB floors yourself, choose the material, what tools you need, and the work that needs to be done.
Smallpox is, let's say, a sandwich that can consist of 3 or more layers. The two (top and bottom) layers are pressed boards made from wood shavings. The shavings are laid along the outer layers of the boards and across the inner layers. Therefore, the board as a whole is called oriented strand board. The shavings can be impregnated with boric acid, wax, formaldehyde resins. Between the layers there is a heater, which can be used as expanded polystyrene, as well as polyurethane foam.
OSB board price
smallpox stove
| Manufacturer | Length | Width | Thickness | price, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 6.3 | 390 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 8.0 | 435 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 9.0 | 450 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 9.5 | 450 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 12 | 620 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 15 | 860 |
| Arbec LP Norbord | 2440 | 1220 | 18 | 990 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 9 | 420 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 12 | 540 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 15 | 695 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 18 | 820 |
| Kronospan | 2440 | 1220 | 22 | 995 |
| Kronospan | 2500 | 1250 | 9 | 440 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 9 | 680 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 12 | 890 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 15 | 1120 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 18 | 1330 |
| Glunz | 2500 | 1250 | 22 | 1620 |
| Kalevala | 2500 | 1250 | 9 | 460 |
| Kalevala | 2500 | 1250 | 12 | 600 |
| Kalevala | 2500 | 1250 | 18 | 910 |
| Kalevala | 2800 | 1250 | 12 | 730 |
OSB is mainly used in construction and furniture manufacturing. It is marked and used as follows:
- OSB-1 - for the production of furniture, packaging or surface cladding;
- OSB-2 - in dry rooms for the construction of load-bearing structures and surfaces;
- OSB – 3 - in rooms with high humidity;
- OSB-4 - for structures that are exposed to heavy loads, as well as located in places where the humidity is high.
OSB can be lacquered on one side, laminated, grooved or on two or four sides.
The slab is a rectangle with the following dimensions:
- thickness from 8 mm to 38;
- length - 2440 mm;
- width - 1220 mm;
Above, we have given the dimensions of a standard plate. Sometimes on sale you can find OSB with dimensions - 1.25 meters by 2.5.
The advantages of the OSB are as follows:
- low cost;
- light weight;
- easy and well processed;
- durable;
- moisture resistance;
- does not dry out, does not exfoliate, does not rot;
- mold and insects will not start.
Unfortunately, there are restrictions on the use of OSB. When pressed, the chips are impregnated with resins that contain toxic substances. They constantly release volatile compounds of these substances into the environment. Therefore, when choosing a stove, you need to pay attention to how much of these substances is emitted by a particular brand of stove, and in what area it is allowed to use it.
Installation of OSB floors
There are two types of OSB floors. The first consists of a concrete screed, waterproofing, intermediate subfloor, OSB itself. The second type is waterproofing, lag, preferably a rough floor, OSB.
Materials and tools
It is better to buy a plate grooved. On two opposite sides there should be tongues, and on the other two there should be grooves. Such a plate is easier to install.
The lag is a bar. In construction, for the manufacture of logs, they mainly use a bar with dimensions of 5 by 5 centimeters or 5 by 7. The number of logs depends on how the flooring itself will be arranged. If there is no subfloor, then the amount of lag increases.
Timber price
If you plan to put the floor on the screed, then you will need a rail, because the slab cannot be laid directly on the screed, even if waterproofing is placed on it. Any wooden product must breathe, that is, absorb air and give up the accumulated moisture. It is for this that the gap is made between the floors and the screed. Otherwise, from the moisture accumulated in the product, and the tree already stores moisture in itself, and even absorbs it from the screed, it will start to rot and, in the end, become unusable, no matter how well it is made.
For the subfloor, edged board or plywood, OSB itself, can be used.
To make a screed, you will need at least M-300 grade cement and sand. The solution can be prepared by yourself, but it is easier to purchase a ready-made dry sand-cement mixture in the store. Consumption per sq. m is indicated on the package. A concrete mixture, which includes filler, gravel, crushed stone, and the like, should not be done at home. A high-quality concrete solution cannot be prepared manually forever.
For better and more even filling of the floor, you will need beacons.
In Russia, skirting boards are usually installed on the floors. It also serves as a decor detail and closes the gap between the wall and floors. The slot is made on purpose, counting on the expansion of the board when the temperature rises. If it is not planned, then you can do without a plinth.
The board is usually fastened to the timber with nails and glued with glue. This means we need both glue and nails. When installing floors, use screw nails or self-tapping screws.
To seal the cracks, you will need wood putty. This means that you will also need a spatula. You will need a wooden hammer, a mallet for rallying the plates, a metal hammer.
Floor installation stages
All installation of any floor is divided into three main stages:
- preparation;
- basic work;
- cleaning.
The last stage is known to everyone. Therefore, we will not consider it.
Preparatory stage
In the future, we will conduct all the reasoning, bearing in mind that the installation of floors is carried out in a residential area. In utility rooms or buildings, the floors are laid in the same way and in the same sequence as in the apartment. Only there are fewer restrictions and lower requirements. We will break all the stages into stages. Let's call them steps and present our reasoning in the form of step-by-step instructions for performing the work.
So, preparatory work.
Step one. We choose the type of floor. That is, we decide whether we will lay it on the screed or on. If we choose lags, then it is better to first draw a drawing of their location. It will help you correctly calculate the amount of lag.
| Floor board thickness, mm | Gap between lags, mm |
|---|---|
| 20 | 300 |
| 24 | 400 |
| 30 | 500 |
| 35 | 600 |
| 40 | 700 |
| 45 | 800 |
| 50 | 1000 |
2nd step. We calculate the volume of work, draw up an estimate of costs.
3rd step. We do the purchase of materials. When purchasing a stove, be sure to pay attention to the fact that it complies with sanitary standards. It is advisable to buy lumber, a board for a rough floor, a bar, a lath already dried and treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic agents. If it was not possible to purchase such lumber, then you will have to buy an antiseptic and process the wood yourself.
4th step. We process the plate, remove burrs and irregularities from the edges. We treat the lumber with an antiseptic and put it to dry. It is stacked in layers. A gasket is made between the layers. It is needed so that the material breathes, dries evenly and quickly. The wood is dried for at least a day. Drying temperature should be +10 degrees and above.
5th step. If the floor is being laid for the first time, the debris remaining after construction work is removed.
If the OSB is laid instead of the old floor, then the old one. In that case, of course, when it cannot be used as a rough one. Dismantle the floor carefully so as not to damage the plaster on the walls. To do this, take out the nails and remove the board, then remove the logs. We release the floor strip (each) from the grooves, move it to the side and remove it.
6th step. We install beacons to level the floor level. At least three marks on each wall. Draw a line between them. Measured at any point between the wall and the line should show an angle of 90 degrees.
Price for floor leveling beacons
floor beacons
Installation of OSB floor
If the floor is mounted on a screed, then we will have to perform several actions.
1. Install the beacons under the screed fill. The distance between them should be no more than 50-60 cm. This will make the screed smoother. We check the installation of beacons with a level. If there is a bias, align.
2. Prepare the solution. It should not be too liquid or too thick. We fill the place prepared for the screed, level the solution with the rule flush with the installed beacons.
| Brand | Packing, kg | Price, rub | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weber. Vetonit 5000 (Vetonit 5000) | 25 | 550 | Self-leveling floors Vetonit 5000 is a mixture that sets quickly, dries quickly and is applied by hand. Cement-based for leveling all concrete substrates. The blend does not contain casein. |
| Bulk floor Osnovit T45 | 20 | 296 | Fast-hardening self-leveling floor for leveling the base surface with a layer of 2 to 100 mm. Allows you to create a topcoat, on which after 3 days you can lay ceramic tiles, or after 7 days linoleum, carpet, laminate, parquet, cork or wooden floors. |
| Self-leveling floor Prospectors quick-hardening | 25 | 280 | Purpose - for high-quality leveling of floor surfaces inside all types of buildings and structures for subsequent coatings (linoleum, tiles, parquet, etc.). Recommended for dry and moderately damp rooms. Layer thickness 5-80 mm. |
| Weber finishing self-leveling floor. Vetonit 3000 (Weber Vetonit) | 25 | 660 | Vetonit 3000 is perfect for the final leveling of floors inside the premises themselves, not only in residential buildings, but also in various offices and public buildings. The surface that is leveled can be covered with stone tiles, various PVC coverings, vinyl tiles, as well as textile carpets. |
| Self-leveling floor Yunis Horizon universal | 20 | 250 | Composition: cement, mineral filler of fine fraction, chemical additives. Thickness of the applied layer: from 2 to 100 mm. |
The screed will set in a day, it will be possible to work on it. But she will gain full strength no earlier than two weeks later, depending on the temperature in the room. The higher the temperature, the faster the screed gains strength. Hence the conclusion: heavy objects can be placed on the newly laid floor no earlier than after 14 days.
| Name | Application area | Rough base | Layer thickness | Consumption kg / m2 | Drying time | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Floor screed, 25 kg | Pre-leveling the surface | Concrete, cement-sand base | 10-50 mm | 20 | 24 hours | RUB 128 / pack |
| Self-leveling universal mixture Ceresit CN 175/20 | Production of screeds, repair of floor defects, leveling of the base for floor coverings | Concrete, gypsum, cement-sand bases | 60 mm | 16 | 72 hours | RUB 340 / pack |
| Floor screed BOLARS Base, 25 kg | Leveling the base under the topcoat | Concrete, cement screed | 10-100 mm | 18 | 24 hours | RUB 217 / pack |
| Self-leveling finishing floor Vetonit 3000, 25 kg | Finishing the floor | Concrete, cement-sand screed | Up to 5 mm | 1,5 | 4 hours | RUB 622 / pack |
| Self-leveling self-leveling floor GLIMS-S-Level, 20 kg | Finishing the floor | Concrete, gypsum screeds, base screeds | 2-30 mm | 3 kg (layer thickness 2 mm) | 24 hours | RUB 478 / pack |
| Self-leveling floor Perfekta Multi-layer, 20 kg | Basic surface alignment | Concrete, cement, plaster bases | 2-200 mm | 14 (layer thickness 10 mm) | 2-3 hours | RUB 312 / pack |
3. After the tie has grabbed, check it with a level. If there are irregularities, slopes, fill in an additional layer of mortar to level it.
If the screed is flat, then we will lay waterproofing on top of it. You can use a simple roofing felt or any other material intended for these purposes. We put the rail on top of the insulation. We would advise you to lay it both along and across, in the form of rectangles, the sides of which are aligned. Their dimensions should correspond to the dimensions of the plate or be slightly smaller. We coat the rail with glue.
It is also permissible to install slabs without using rails. In this case, the concrete screed is coated with rubber glue.
4. Place the slab on the rail. We take a mallet and knock down the plates as tightly as possible. The tongue must fit completely into the groove. Ideally, there should be no gap between the slabs.
5. We fasten the slabs to the rail using nails or self-tapping screws.
6. If there are gaps, then seal them with glue or wood putty. It must be selected according to the color and texture of the slab. The putty dries 24 hours. After the putty is dry, sand it twice. A coarse skin the first time and a small one the second.
Wood putty price
wood putty
Video - Laying OSB on concrete
If the OSB is laid directly on the logs, then it is better to install them far and wide. The fact is that OSB is a complex structure and it is not known how it will behave after shrinkage, shaking, shrinkage. And laying logs in the form of rectangles will reduce the load on the slab itself and reduce the likelihood of defects. All other actions that need to be performed are exactly the same as when installing the floor on a screed.
Let me give you one piece of advice. The best, in our opinion, the device of OSB floors is a structure that provides for the installation of an intermediate sub-floor. It will give the entire floor additional strength, stability and significantly reduce the load on the coating itself, that is, on the slab. As an intermediate floor, you can use the board itself, and plywood, and the old floor. But the latter can only be used if it is well preserved and there are no serious defects on it. You need to remove all the old paint from it, level it, and patch up the cracks. Scratches, grind, treat with an antiseptic and only after these preparatory work can the plate be laid. Actually, both on plywood and on OSB, which will be the subfloor, all defects and cracks must also be repaired. We have already described the rest of the steps for laying the finished floor above.
Video - DIY floor from OSB (on logs with insulation)
OSB or OSB (oriented strand board) is a relatively new building material that has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB is great in frame construction, when insulating standard houses. Especially often, with the help of OSB, floor surfaces are formed and leveled. Today we will talk about how to do it correctly.
Types of OSB boards and their characteristics
OSB - boards consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with waterproof resins. It is glued together in 3 layers. In the outer layers, the chips are laid along the length of the panel, and inside - perpendicularly. This arrangement gives the OSB strength, allows you to firmly hold the fasteners.
The following types of OSB are used in construction:
- OSB-2 - panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
- OSB-3 is a versatile material. Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. A large margin of safety allows it to be widely used in construction.
- OSB-4 is the most durable and moisture resistant board. They are used to form load-bearing structures in high humidity conditions.
For construction and leveling of floors, OSB-3 sheets are usually used, which perfectly withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and movement of people.
When leveling small defects in the floor, it is sufficient to use 10 mm thick OSB boards. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require 10-15 mm of material. If it is necessary to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.
Wood-based panels such as plywood and OSB are widely used for sub-flooring under the topcoat. Let's compare these two materials in the following article:.
OSB boards are used as an even and solid base for various modern coatings - parquet, tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand boards are:
- Create a floor surface. OSB is a popular subfloor material for joists. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both along the upper side of the log, and along the lower one.
- Leveling the surface. Installing OSB on a wooden or concrete floor will help create an absolutely flat surface suitable for laying a finishing coat.
- Thermal insulation of the floor. OSB board consists of 90% natural wood chips with high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, OSB flooring prevents heat from escaping and keeps it indoors.
- Noise isolation. The multilayer dense structure of OSB reliably absorbs any kind of noise.
Consider several popular technologies for laying OSB on different bases.
Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)
Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling the concrete base with OSB slabs. The work is performed according to this scheme.
Debris is swept from the concrete base, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the assembly adhesive. The base is covered with a primer. This also contributes to better adhesion of the adhesive to the substrate. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to "dust" during operation.
OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is performed with a jigsaw or a circular saw. Apply rubber-based parquet glue to the seamy side of OSB using a notched trowel for uniform application. The sheets are glued to the concrete base.
Additionally, OSB is fixed with hammer-in dowels. For guaranteed retention, the dowels are hammered around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is flat, installation is carried out in a dry living space, then it is enough to fix the dowels at the corners of each plate (provided that high-quality glue is required!).
During installation, expansion joints with a thickness of 3 mm are left between the boards. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for the temperature and humidity expansion (swelling) of the OSB during operation.
At the last stage of work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The seams between the wall and the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam. Drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam that has protruded beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.
Installation of OSB boards on board flooring
Laying OSB on an old wood floor helps to level the surface and prepare it for the installation of a topcoat. Installation is carried out in this way:
- To begin with, using a level or rule, localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) in the boardwalk is determined.
- Boards that "walk" or rise too high above the general level are attracted to the lags with dowels, sinking them into the material. In some cases, in order to eliminate the creak and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be sorted out with the replacement (repair) of the lag.
- Clean the paint buildup from the flooring, swells and protrusions are erased with a grinder or emery cloth.
- OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with an offset of the seams of each next row. There should be no cruciform joints! Expansion gaps are provided (between the slabs - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
- Holes are drilled in the slabs. Their diameter should match the diameter of the thread of the wood screws that were chosen to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the plates every 20-30 cm, countersinking is performed under the caps of the screws.
- Wood screws pull the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of self-tapping screws is at least 45 mm.
- If you want to make the floor more durable, mount the second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
- Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with polyurethane foam, which is cut off after drying.
This completes the process.
Laying OSB on logs on a concrete base
In the presence of a concrete base (for example, floor slabs), the device of the logs and their sheathing with OSB sheets allows you to create an even floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also to fit insulating, moisture and sound insulating materials into the structure.
Consider the technology of creating a floor from OSB on logs on an existing concrete base. Lags (wooden blocks) are fixed on the concrete floor using dowels or anchors.
The wider the distance between the lags, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the step is 40 mm, then the minimum OSB thickness is 15-18 mm, if the step is 50 cm - the thickness is 18-22 mm, if 60 cm - 22 mm or more.
Thanks to the lags, a space is created between the OSB and the concrete floor. It can be used profitably by covering it with insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a heat insulator can be placed between the logs: mineral wool, foam, EPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the overlap, the floor structure is supplemented with vapor barrier films or membranes.
OSB plates are laid across the log. The seams between adjacent slabs (in width) should go strictly in the middle of the log. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm - between the plates, 12 mm - between the OSB and the wall)
The sheets are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). The step of fasteners: along the perimeter of the sheets - 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports - 30 mm. Nails (or screws) fixing the plates around the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fasteners are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.
How to fix OSB boards on logs in an ordinary city apartment, watch the video:
Creating a subfloor from OSB on logs
Laying OSB on wood joists is the easiest way to get a durable and reliable sub-floor. This technology is especially appropriate with the existing columnar, pile, pile-screw foundation. Work order:
- Logs are mounted on the foundation. The lag step should correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the step, the greater the thickness).
- Perform a rough roll of the floor. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the lag, OSB plates are laid and fixed on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing agents, for example, bituminous mastic.
- A vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the OSB.
- Insulating material is laid, for example, foam, mineral wool slabs, ecowool, etc.
- Cover the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on joists on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).
This completes the work process.
OSB processing for different topcoats
A durable, hard and even surface makes OSB a universal base for all modern types of finishing floor coverings. How to cover an OSB floor? Here are some popular solutions:
- Varnish or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finishing floors, which only need decorative finishing with paints and varnishes. OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation, it is enough to clean them from dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
- Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying roll materials, it is necessary to ensure that the joints between the OSB boards are flush with the rest of the surface. It is advisable to remove all irregularities with sanding paper. Expansion gaps - fill with elastic sealant.
- Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the OSB base, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. For this, the logs are placed more often than the thickness of the sheets requires. The step between the fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued to the OSB using a special adhesive suitable for the wood surface and the tiles used.
- Laminate- finishing coating, which is fixed in a "floating" way, without rigid fastening of the lamellas. This coating is quite tough, so there is no need to prepare OSB for it. Minor irregularities, which may be at the joints of the slabs, are leveled by the substrate.
What exactly to choose is up to you.
Using OSB allows you to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary, create it from scratch on the logs. The OSB surface does not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, coating with moisture-resistant compounds. It is a great choice for those looking to create a quality floor with minimal effort.
