Do-it-yourself toilet installation: useful instructions for different models. How to install a toilet in an apartment What to put a toilet on

Installing a toilet is a responsible process that is best left to professionals. However, this is not always possible, so it will not be superfluous to know how to install this important item in the toilet room yourself. At first glance, the procedure is optimally simple. You just need to connect the toilet to the pipes with water, sewage and secure it securely. And how this whole procedure actually looks will be discussed below.

Process features

In fact, the correct installation of the toilet is, of course, difficult. However, if you understand its technology, you can qualitatively install a toilet and save on plumbing services. At the same time, it will turn out to grow in your own eyes. Recently, the number of models of toilet bowls has increased significantly, if you wish, you can find one that will not seem difficult to install.

Together with them, in addition to the traditional method of installation, other methods of fastening appeared. For example, now the method when the tank is hidden in the wall has become especially popular. Wall toilets have also become widespread, which are attached directly to the wall, completely freeing the floor. Such models look very interesting, they are no more difficult to fasten than models with floor fasteners.

Also, the installation of the toilet is influenced by the type of fastening, flushing, supply of the sewer pipe, and its dimensions. Particular attention is paid to the evenness of the surface on which the plumbing is planned to be installed. That is why it is better to think over in advance the model of the toilet bowl and the type of room in which you will have to mount it yourself. This is especially true for toilets and bathrooms in new buildings. It is worth considering the size of the room so that the installation is easy and correct.

When installing toilet bowls in apartments or houses where there is already a toilet bowl, you should also consider dismantling the old product, as well as repairing it. Another point that should be thought over in advance is the availability of all the necessary tools, including a hammer drill, screwdrivers, and dowels. When purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the bowl and cistern before packing it. There should be no chips or cracks on the product. They can cause leakage of a new product.

Particular attention should be paid to the internal cavities, as well as the release of the toilet. It will not be superfluous to clarify what the complete set consists of. For example, when buying in a store, you should ask the seller if it has a seat, fasteners to the floor or wall. If something is missing, it is better to immediately purchase all the missing items. This will allow for installation without any problems.

Types of structures

There are a lot of types of toilets now, as well as the parameters by which they are divided. This often leads to customer confusion. From all this variety, you must choose one toilet. At the same time, it is desirable that it ideally fit the toilet room.

By size, the toilets are divided into:

universal, most common model;
for children, which, with their small size, are very convenient for children;
for people with disabilities, differ in different designs.

By the type of installation, toilet bowls are of two types.

Floor standing, which is fixed to the floor. This type is divided into corner and wall.
Suspended. Such models are mounted on the wall using special fasteners (installation). They are called wall-mounted or built-in.

An important point is the compatibility of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation. The size of the installation should be selected based on its location. In addition, the installation allows you to install not only a toilet, but also a bidet.

Installations are:

block, which are mounted only on a load-bearing wall;
frame, which can be mounted anywhere.

By connecting the toilet to the sewer, several separate types are also distinguished.

With horizontal outlet

Such toilets are connected to the sewer exclusively at an angle of 95 degrees. Such models are especially convenient when the sewer pipe passes through the wall. However, with the help of a corrugated pipe, the toilet can be equally easily attached to the floor. This species initially became widespread in Europe, and not so long ago in our country.

With vertical

These designs are the most common, behind this name the most common toilet bowls are hidden, which are connected to a sewer socket in the floor. Most often, such models are found in the Stalinist buildings, built in the middle of the twentieth century.

With oblique

These toilets will be attached to the sewer pipe at an angle of 45 degrees. These structures can be seen in all houses that were built at the end of the last century.

Flushing the toilet is one of the highlights.

According to how the flush cistern is installed, toilet bowls are divided into three types.

Hinged, which is mounted on the wall.
Toilet cistern. This model can be called traditional and immediately recognizable. It is easy to install from above.
The concealed cistern is built into the wall, thereby freeing up the room and making it even more attractive.

According to the location of the drain hole, plumbing products are divided into two types.

Rear drain

In such models, the water from the tank flows down the back wall of the bowl. The advantages of such a drain are that the flow of water is stronger, which means that it cleans the bowl better. It is worth considering that the back wall will always be dirtier, and there will be more splashes on the front. We have to clean the bowls of such toilets exclusively using household chemicals.

With circular

Water enters the toilet bowl through several holes, so the entire surface is washed more evenly. Of course, in these models, the cleaning of the back wall is worse, but in general, there is less splashing.

The supply of water to the cistern can be in different ways and also affects the installation of the toilet. It can be bottom, side and back.

By the way the water mirror is located, three types can be distinguished at once.

Funnel-shaped when the water mirror is exactly in the middle of the bowl. This model has 1 significant drawback in the form of splashing water during its use.
With a shelf, it is distinguished by the presence of a visor in front of a water mirror. This design leads to the spread of unpleasant odors.
With a sloped back wall, the water mirror is highlighted to minimize splashes and odors. Experts recommend opting for this particular model.

By the drain in the upper cisterns, the toilet bowls can be divided into three main types.

Bell

The bell is a cast-iron cistern, which is connected to the toilet with a steel pipe. Inside, it is made up of a lever, a chain, a bell (a cast-iron plug with a gasket on the bottom). As it rises, the bell lets water into the drain pipe. As soon as the chain is released, the cork is lowered. The disadvantages of this model include the need to replace the gasket every few years. Another unpleasant moment is the accumulation of rust and deposits that impair drainage.

Corrugation

The corrugation works by pulling on the rope attached to the lever. The corrugation is tilted, water is sucked in. While the rope is released, the corrugation funnel is angled until all the water in the tank is used up. Of the problems with this design, it is worth noting a leak at the base of the corrugation, which forms after several years of use.

Pear

The pear is typical for all modern drainage systems. The principle of operation of the structure is based on the fact that the lever or button is pressed, the stem rises up, the pear leaves the saddle, water flows. Despite the variety of saddle and pear shapes, the disadvantages of this design are common. The most basic problem is the reduction in elasticity of the rubber, which leads to leaks. Another disadvantage is that the seat is contaminated with deposits, which also causes leakage.

Toilets can be classified by seat material(plastic), body material (sanitary faience, sanitary porcelain, metal, natural stone), design and even color. Some models are equipped with a microlift. This is one of the handy features.

Seat selection

Toilet planning should start with choosing a toilet. It is necessary to take into account all its features. Only after that is it worth proceeding with further actions. Of course, if there is an old toilet, it must be dismantled. Most likely, you will still have to carry out major repairs in the room. And it includes the renewal of the sewer lines, floor screed, cladding.

Before installation, you need to evaluate the dimensions of the new plumbing device. This will allow you to understand how best to place it: in the center of the room or closer to the wall. It may be better to mount it on the wall or move it close to the bathroom. It is necessary to decide on the height at which it is better to install the toilet. Today, modern models are capable of satisfying any whim in this regard.

The unconventional arrangement of the sewer pipe can be a daunting task. Therefore, it is worthwhile to foresee the best options in advance. Perhaps it is worth expanding or extending the pipe itself, or maybe it would be better to choose a non-standard plumbing model. Ideally, of course, the toilet can be connected vertically at a 90 degree angle. It is worth remembering that it is better if there are as few intermediate parts between the toilet and the sewer as possible.

You can draw a diagram of the location of the toilet and other items in the toilet. This will make it more clear whether you need an angular placement of the structure or you can get by with a generally accepted standard. In modern new buildings, everything is simple. After all, here the toilet is installed from scratch, all communications are summed up, taking into account a variety of models. In the old Khrushchev buildings, everything is clearly more complicated.

Dismantling the old

When the new toilet has already been selected, the location is known, as well as its main characteristics, it is worth moving on to the next stage in the form of dismantling the old toilet. Most often, floor-mounted toilets that are attached to the floor have to be cleaned. You can easily and quickly cope with such a task yourself. There is no need to contact a master.

It's worth starting by turning off the water and draining it from the tank into the toilet bowl. Then you need to unscrew the hose that fits from the drainage to the tank. Next, the tank fasteners are untwisted. If they do not give in, it is worth using special means. They are applied to the fasteners (for about 6 minutes), completely dissolving lime or rust during this time.

Of course, you can do without such funds. For example, using an adjustable wrench or screwdriver makes it easier to rip off the fastening bolts. If the old toilet is going to be thrown away, then the problem of poor disconnection of the cistern can be solved with a hammer. After the cistern fasteners are unscrewed, you should go to the toilet fasteners. They often look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To facilitate the unscrewing process, you can use the methods described above.

When all the fasteners are unscrewed, it is necessary to disconnect the toilet bowl drain from the sewer. In old toilets, as a rule, the place where the drain is attached to the sewer pipe was coated with cement. If so, you will have to remove the cement with a screwdriver and hammer. And you need to start with a coating running across the seam.

Next, you should swing the drain, but leave it in place. The toilet must be moved in different directions in order to finally drain the water remaining in the knee. It is necessary to disconnect the neck from the sewer pipe. This is not always easy: sometimes the toilet can be glued to the floor with cement mortar. In this case, using a chisel and a hammer, the pedestal is chipped off in parts.

The toilet should now unhook easily and can be taken to the trash heap. If desired, you can chop it with a sledgehammer to make it easier to endure. Another important point is that you need to plug the sewer hole with a plastic or wooden plug. This will allow you to work without unpleasant odors.

After the old toilet is dismantled, you should evaluate the condition of the pipes. For example, before installing a new design, experts recommend replacing the cast-iron pipe with a new plastic one. Modern pipes can greatly facilitate the installation of a toilet. Perhaps it is better to replace an uneven pipe with a direct analogue in order to make it easier to mount the toilet bowl to the sewer drain.

How to install: step by step guide

Installing the toilet yourself is not at all difficult if you follow a short step-by-step guide. Moreover, for installing the toilet bowl on the floor and wall, the most important thing is a flat and prepared surface for fastening. For installation, it is worth preparing a number of tools in advance.

The main list includes:

puncher;
adjustable wrench;
spanners;

hammer;
sealant;
screwdrivers;
roulette;
flexible hose.

The toilet cistern is supplied fully assembled or disassembled. In the second case, it will need to be assembled before installation. It is best to start the installation by decomposing all the parts to make sure they are present. Following the instructions from the toilet manufacturer, you need to assemble the inside of the cistern. The steps may differ depending on the type of drainage system. It is worth re-checking the reliability of the fastening of the parts, but without undue effort, especially when tightening the screws and bolts.

On the floor

Floor-standing toilets are somewhat easier to install than wall-mounted ones. Yes, and so far they are still more popular. Determine the coverage and evenness of the floor in the washroom. The installation of the toilet on the floor differs based on the floor covering. For example, on a tiled floor, there is no need for additional leveling.

If a tile is laid on the base, but it is not completely even, it is better to install it with chopiks and screws. If the toilet will be installed in a new building where there is no decoration, it is better to fill in the screed and then lay the tiles. If there was a wooden stand under the old toilet, it should be removed. The resulting empty space should be filled with cement (preferably one that hardens quickly). In the event that the floor cannot be completely leveled, it is possible to increase the tightness during installation with a sealant.

They clean the sewer pipe from debris and sediments, install a tap on the water supply (if it is not there) to shut off the water to the tank. Connect the toilet bowl drain to the sewer pipe. This can be done in one of several ways.

It is better to seal the junction of the toilet bowl with the sewer with silicone sealant. This will ensure that water does not enter the toilet while cleaning the floor. If the toilet bowl is connected to a cast iron pipe, it is best to use a transition sleeve with a diameter of 110 mm. Before use, a sealant is abundantly applied to it, then it is inserted into a cast iron pipe. It is worth emphasizing that before this it is imperative to clean the pipe from contamination.

You can do this with a pleated cuff. The main advantage of this method is cost effectiveness. However, the toilet cannot be directly attached to the socket. It is better not to choose this method for small rooms. With the help of a straight collar, you can provide a strong and tight connection between the bowl and the drain. With the help of an eccentric cuff, it is possible if the connection centers of the toilet and sewage are displaced. Follow a predefined toilet installation method.

On dowels

Try on the product again. Particular attention should be paid to the angle of inclination, as well as how the height of the sewer matches the neck. If inconsistencies are identified, they should be eliminated. With a pencil or a marker, circle the seat.

Make the markup. To do this, determine the central axis of the toilet. It is best if it aligns with the center of the room. With a reference point on the axis, you need to install the bowl at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Marks are made for the holes using a marker, which is inserted strictly vertically into the holes for the fasteners.

Mounting holes are prepared. To do this, you need to remove the toilet bowl to the side, make holes with a puncher according to the marks. Then it is necessary to clean the holes of debris and pour silicone into them, which in this case is a waterproofing agent. Then you need to insert the dowels.

Install the bowl. A special rubber gasket or a layer of silicone is placed on the outlined landing site. Then they put the toilet in place and press it to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the holes for fasteners, the screws are tightened without unnecessary efforts, fixing everything with plugs. Remove excess silicone with a rubber spatula or damp cloth.

For adhesive

You can use silicone glue, liquid sealant, epoxy. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. Markup is carried out. To do this, place the bowl in the required place and outline the contour with a pencil.

Prepare the foundation. You need to start by cleaning the floor and base of the bowl from various contaminants. For the best adhesion to the glue, the surface must be roughened. To do this, clean it with sandpaper. It is also necessary to degrease the base of the toilet and the floor with acetone or solvent.

Prepare the adhesive for work, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply glue to the bottom of the toilet bowl and the inside of the contour on the floor. It should not be applied in too large a layer. Place the bowl in place. It is imperative to press it firmly to the floor.

Wait for the glue to dry completely. This usually takes at least 12 hours. During this time, it is better not to touch the toilet or sit down. This will avoid location offsets. The mount will be more durable.

On taffeta

Taffeta is a pad made from durable wood. A plumbing structure is attached to it. This method is ideal for installing the toilet on a wooden floor. However, it can also be used for floors with other finishes. In addition to wood for taffeta, a rubber backing with a thickness of 5 - 15 mm is sometimes used. For example, you can use an old rubber mat.

Prepare the taffeta. To do this, take a board, the thickness of which is 2.8 - 3.2 cm, cut out a workpiece from it. Then it is treated with linseed oil or a solution capable of preventing rotting. For reliable fastening, anchors are fixed into the workpiece. You can also drive in nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they stick out of it by 2 - 3 cm.

Make a recess in the floor to install the toilet. The size and configuration of the recess must fully correspond to the dimensions and shape of the taffeta. Fill the recess with cement. Take a taffeta and turn it with anchors or nails down. Then they put it in the cement on the floor. If done correctly, the board will be flush with the floor.

They are waiting for the cement to completely harden. Install the toilet. To do this, put the bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws, which are pre-lubricated with grease or graphite. It is necessary to put rubber washers under the screw heads so that the ceramics remain undamaged.

After the toilet is fixed, simple instructions follow.

The cistern is installed directly on the toilet bowl and fastened using the plastic screws included in the kit. It is important not to forget to install an O-ring between the cistern and the toilet.

Connect a flexible lead. It is advisable to choose a long hose for this. Particular attention should be paid to the diameter of the inlet holes so that the mount is strong. Do not use excessive force when tightening the flare nuts.
Install the cover with the seat and the release button. Recommendations for their installation are in the instructions. The technology of work is extremely simple and understandable to everyone.
A trial run of water is made. If there is a leak anywhere, tighten the connections.
Adjust the locking mechanism according to the instructions.

On the wall

You can install toilets on the wall in a private house and apartment. Connecting modern models to the sewer is completely simple.

It is worth noting that such structures can be used even with a vertical sewer outlet.

Assemble the installation frame itself, according to the instructions.
The upper stops are installed, which outwardly resemble rods. They are adjusted using a screwdriver and a socket wrench.
Install the lower stops, similar to the plates. Adjust them with a socket wrench.

They adjust the height, for which the already assembled frame is moved to the wall. The center of the frame must be aligned exactly over the middle of the sewer pipe.
The installation is installed in height using a bubble level. There is a mark on the frame that should be lowered or raised to the required height. Most often it is 1 m.
They adjust the height of the stops, and also set the distance from the wall specified in the documents.
Fix the exposed frame reinforcement to the wall. To do this, mark in the necessary places with a pencil or marker. After that, it is necessary to drill the holes and install the dowel bodies in them. Then the fasteners themselves are installed, having previously planted it on the sealant.

Install branch pipes, as well as couplings in the fixed installation. They are fixed in place.
Install metal rods. The toilet bowl will be attached to them. They are screwed into special sockets, then silicone seals are put on top.
Pull the sewer pipe to the required distance and fix it with a bracket. It must be inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Connect the water supply to the tank. To do this, open the tank lid and remove the plug on the side surface. A corrugated pipe is introduced into the resulting hole. It is connected to the insides with a slip nut. It must be tightened very carefully, since most often the nut is made of plastic.

A tee is installed inside the tank, to which a pipe is brought using an American and an adapter. Also, a flexible hose from the tank is connected to the tee. It is attached with a union nut.
Cover the toilet installation with a false wall, for example, made of moisture-resistant plasterboard. As a rule, drywall is attached to the frame and profiles.
They decorate the wall and hang the toilet bowl. Install a decorative panel for the drain device.
They put the toilet bowl on the pins, the release of the bowl hermetically enters the plastic sewer socket.

Before installing and before purchasing a toilet, you should read the recommendations of experienced plumbers.

By following some rules, many problems can be avoided.

The first thing that experts advise to pay attention to is the type of drain. This is especially important if the sewer supply will not change. With the help of adapters, it is especially difficult to make a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with an inappropriate type of sewer.
You should not postpone the purchase of plumbing until the last moment, as well as purchase it after repair. It is better if the place in the toilet room will be prepared for a specific toilet model in advance. This will simplify the installation of plumbing.

Avoid saving on bolts and anchors. It is better to choose nickel-plated mounts. They do not rust. This will protect the product in the future from ugly drips, as well as the adhesion of the bolts.
An eccentric cuff, called a corrugation, will help compensate for differences in floor height before and after renovation. It is better to use a flexible hose to supply water to the tank.
In the case when the sewer pipe goes through the floor, it is worth using a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff.

Ideal for installation, when the toilet bowl drain will be connected to the sewer without any cuffs and other additional elements. A rubber-edged ring can be used for sealing.

If the floor in the washroom is uneven, the toilet should be installed using silicone sealant.

Plumbers recommend using small wedges made of wood or plastic. However, it is also necessary to use a sealant with them to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet. When installing the toilet on old cast iron, it is better to use a sealant.

If the water line is old, it should definitely be replaced. When choosing a liner, you need to know the distance from the joints on the pipe with water to the attachment with the toilet cistern. Then you need to replace the old flexible water line. And to it you should also add 15 - 20 cm. Adapters for threads at the joints or FUM tape should be purchased in advance.

When installing the toilet on a tile, the surface must be screwed to avoid cracks.

To do this, make marks in the right places. A self-tapping screw is attached to them and hit on it with a hammer several times. After that, you can drill the tile with a punch or drill, but only without the impact mode.

If the sewer riser is made of cast iron, it must be cleaned to metal, then thoroughly washed and dried. After that, a sealant is applied to a dry and clean metal surface. And you need to put it down a little more. After that, it must be connected to the corrugation.

You can also apply sealant to the outer part of the joint.

In order to easily and without damage to remove the corrugation connecting the toilet and the sewer, its outlet and outlet of the toilet are lubricated with wet soap. And only after this procedure is the sewer bell put on.
Before you make marks with a marker through the holes in the bottom of the bowl, you need to sit down on it and check how comfortable it is. If necessary, you need to immediately correct the position.
Do not use plastic dowels that come in conjunction with toilets. They break quickly, so it is better to give preference to other fasteners.

An additional insert in an old cast iron sewer pipe can be removed with a hammer drill or burned out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. You can burn out if the cavity was filled with sulfur or blocked with a bob. Before burning out, care must be taken to ensure adequate ventilation of the room, remove all flammable agents and materials.

Too strong inserts are best cut with a grinder or electric welding.

The final chord of the bathroom renovation is the installation of plumbing fixtures. If desired, this part of the work can be done on your own, without resorting to plumbers. Installing a modern toilet is much easier than a Soviet-style product.

From this material, you will learn how to properly install a hinged (suspended) or floor-standing toilet at home with your own hands, you can study detailed instructions and a training video on installation.

Before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials. What do you need for installation, besides a new toilet? You will need:

hammer drill or hammer drill;

drill (the diameter of the drill is selected depending on the diameter of the fasteners);

if the installation is made on a tile - drill on the tile;

hammer;

chisel;

screwdrivers;

set of wrenches;

adjustable wrench;

putty knife;

retractable knife;

marker or pencil;

roulette.

It is also highly advisable to have safety glasses to keep dust out of your eyes.

Additionally you will need:

silicone sealant with a gun or in a special tube;

FUM tape or sanitary flax;

metallized tape;

stuffing box;

corrugation;

tap;

flexible hose for connecting the tank to the water supply;

polyethylene film;
bucket and rag;

repair mortar;

dowels, if they are not included in the scope of delivery of the toilet.

Some installation methods involve the mandatory use of cement mortar.

Suspension

Do-it-yourself installation of a hanging (hinged) toilet bowl is carried out as part of a major overhaul, before the start of finishing work. The set of tools for installing the device must include a level.

When choosing an installation site, it is important to take into account that the shorter the pipe connecting the toilet to the sewer, the better it will be easier to clean in case of a blockage. The toilet is attached only to the main wall, otherwise it simply will not withstand the load.

The first and most crucial stage of any installation is marking. The installation location of the toilet must be coordinated with the toilet outlet so as to obtain the optimal pipe slope.

Most likely, during the marking process, the frame (installation) will have to be moved several times. Experts advise install the frame so that the cistern is located about one meter from the floor.

Sewerage and and water supply to the installation site of the toilet are supplied before the installation of the frame. Elementary logic dictates that after fixing the frame, any work becomes almost impossible. Before installing the frame, leveling is performed using a level on all planes.

For precise adjustment of the frame position, its design includes adjustable legs. The frame is fixed to the floor with anchor bolts to fix the structure to the wall may additionally require brackets.

When the frame is in place, the toilet bowl is attached. The recommended bowl height is about 40 cm from the floor however, if such an arrangement is inconvenient for you and your family, the height can be found empirically.

After that, the walls are finished and the niche is “filled in”. When camouflaging a niche it is important to ensure the ability to access the tank in case of an emergency. The bowl is installed last.

You can watch the video:

The toilet is a thing that, depending on the number of people in the family, is used with enviable regularity. And although the manufacturers make it quite durable, nevertheless, there are a number of reasons why the toilet needs to be replaced. For example, ceramics have become unsightly or the toilet mechanism has broken down, plus there is a natural physical and moral deterioration of things. Therefore, the question of how to install the toilet is of interest to many who have not spared the problem of replacing the toilet.

Types of toilets

All types of toilet bowls are represented on the sanitary ware market, which differ in special characteristics:

according to the configuration of the outlet drain: horizontal, oblique, which is located at an angle of 45 degrees and vertical;

in the shape of the bowl: visor, where the walls have a different angle of inclination, disc-shaped with an inner platform and funnel-shaped, which is considered the most practical option.

Before starting work, you need to figure out how to properly install the toilet, depending on the main toilet systems, the disassembly of which can have significant differences:

Suspended or wall-mounted. With this design, the plumbing does not touch the floor, but is only attached to the installation - a special wall system that can withstand any stress. Aesthetically, everything looks attractive, because all communications are hidden. However, the installation of such a structure requires significant financial costs, the smallest repairs turn into a huge problem, and the question of how to install the toilet with your own hands remains open.

Attached. With this system, the toilet is attached to the floor, and the cistern with all communications is hidden in the wall. The plus is the appearance of such a device, and the minus is the difficult repair of hidden parts.

Intra-floor. Such a system is used in public toilets, when the installation is done directly into the floor recess. However, for apartments and houses, this option remains unacceptable to many.

Outdoor. The most popular standard designs are with a toilet bowl attached to the floor and an adjacent cistern. The indisputable advantage of such technologies is the ability to install and repair the toilet on your own, without resorting to the help of specialists.

The installation of a new toilet, regardless of the specific type of product, consists of two stages:

removing the old toilet bowl;

installation of a new product.

Dismantling the toilet

When removing an old toilet, special precautions must be taken to avoid water leaks, which in the worst case will require further renovation measures. Therefore, in order to avoid common mistakes, below is a step-by-step guide for non-professionals.

Overlapping water

The first step in dismantling a toilet is to turn off the water. This can be done by simply shutting off the tap. However, there are situations when the valves are no longer used for a long time, and they have time to rust. In this case, close the main riser and change the faucet at the same time during the repair process.

Advice! To prevent taps from rusting, they should be used for prevention at least once a year.

After closing the tap, completely drain the water from the tank.

Disconnecting the water supply hose

There is a flexible hose on the side of the cistern that carries water for flushing. It is fastened using ordinary nuts, which can be unscrewed very easily.

Removing the cistern

The waste cistern is attached to the toilet with two long screws. In order to unscrew them, you first need to remove the tank cap. Then, if necessary, blot excess moisture with a sponge (if water remains inside, it will certainly spill onto the floor through the holes of the removed bolts). There may be a situation where the screws are rusted. have been in contact with water for many years, then a special anti-rust agent will help.

After loosening the bolts, carefully remove the drain tank, swinging it in different directions for even extraction.

The toilet is usually attached to the floor with several bolts (it is possible that a wooden board is first placed under the toilet). To facilitate the workflow, you first need to remove the toilet lid. Then be sure to put rags on the floor or substitute a bucket. The toilet has a water seal, where water is constantly located - this is a kind of barrier against unpleasant odors from the general sewage system. When removing plumbing, a fair amount of liquid is poured out, as a result of which neighbors can be flooded.

Then you need to unscrew the bolts at the base of the toilet. If they are rusted, then you need to use a special tool or cut them off with a grinder.

You need to walk along the entire base line with a sharp knife or blade, because often the joint between the toilet bowl and the floor is coated with a sealant.

Fastening to a common sewer pipe, very often, is fixed with cement. In order to get rid of it, you can use a drill with a medium drill.

Important! In order not to breathe gases from an open sewer, before removing the toilet, you should prepare a homemade plug, for example, old rags. After a quick cleaning of the pipe from the remnants of construction debris, you must immediately plug the hole with a prepared rag.

Now the old toilet can be removed, and this completes the dismantling work.

Removing the wall-mounted toilet

When dismantling a wall-mounted toilet, the procedure is approximately the same:

first you need to loosen the bolts that hold the toilet in the wall installation;

then disconnect the toilet from the cistern and the general sewage system;

finally remove the toilet.

Before the direct installation of the sanitary ware, it is necessary to perform some actions:

Conduct accurate measurements of the old toilet in order to avoid unnecessary problems when buying and installing a new one. You also need to pay attention to the length of the bowl so that it does not accidentally block the door.

Choose a brass mount that does not corrode. However, some metal toilet seat bolts have a yellowish zinc coating that makes them look like brass, so the item should be checked carefully.

Renovate or good.

When installing a toilet, you can use one of three methods:

Taffeta fastening. With this method of installation, taffeta is placed under the base of the toilet. This is a special hardwood board, pre-treated with linseed oil. It should be laid either on the same level with the floor, or slightly higher than it. The taffeta must be secured with anchors and the installation site must be filled with cement. After the solution is completely dry, you can proceed with the installation of the toilet. All joints with the sewer pipe should be treated with sealant and sealed with tow, and the base of the toilet should be screwed to the prepared place with screws. Then attach the drain tank and check the system for leaks.

Bonding with glue. One of the easiest ways is to fix the toilet with epoxy glue. To do this, it is necessary to clean the contacting surfaces well, and then degrease them with one of the substances - a solvent, acetone or white spirit. After that, you need to roughen them for greater adhesion and repeat the degreasing procedure. Then dry. The next step is to connect the cistern to the toilet. Then you need to apply a thin layer of epoxy glue to the floor, put a sanitary ware on it and press it well (you can just sit on the toilet). The glue should dry for at least 12 hours.

Dowel mounting. Correct installation of the toilet is easy with dowel mounting. This practical method involves fixing the toilet directly to the floor, without first installing additional structures under its "leg".

Do-it-yourself toilet installation will consist of several steps:

Preliminary fitting. You need to put a toilet on the prepared floor and check for discrepancies between the height of the neck and the drain pipe. It is also necessary to check the angle of inclination. Correction should be made if necessary.

Construction markup. First, you should measure the width of the room and find the middle, which will be the axis of the toilet. Install a toilet on it, approximately at a distance of 10-15 cm from the outlet of the sewer pipe. Then, in the mounting holes, you can insert a marker and make the appropriate marks. At the end, you need to circle the base.

Assembling the cistern. In accordance with the recommendations of the instructions, you need to assemble the tank, and then screw it to the toilet. To check the quality of the work done, you can reconnect all communications and make a test run. After a successful experiment, you need to drain the water again and continue the process of replacing the toilet bowl.

Preparing the mounting holes. In the places marked with a marker, holes must be made using a hammer drill or puncher. Then hammer plastic dowels into them.

Corrugation sealing. First you need to wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone in waves to the ribbed rubber hidden in the drain pipe. The same actions must be carried out from the opposite end of the corrugation, processing the area that is put on the neck of the toilet bowl.

Connecting the device to the sewer. First, part of the corrugation (up to the edge of the elastic) must be inserted into the sewer pipe. On the opposite side, firmly put it on the toilet outlet. Then, on the place previously outlined with a marker, you need to lay a special rubber gasket or apply a good ball of silicone.

Equipment installation. Initially, you need to put the toilet in the prepared place, press it down and screw it to the floor. Excess silicone formed during installation can be cleaned with a wet cloth, passing it along the contour of the device.

This completes the installation. Now you can carry out a test run of the water. If the work was carried out without errors, then the tank will be filled with water to the required level and its flow will stop. There should be no overflow. After draining the water, the process should be repeated without interruption. You should also carefully check that the newly installed structure does not leak anywhere. If everything meets the above criteria, then the installation can be considered successful.

In recent years, a wall-mounted toilet has become very popular, so the question of installing a wall-mounted toilet is more relevant than ever. Installation of such plumbing equipment is carried out on the wall without any fasteners or contacts with the floor. In order to securely fix the toilet, you first need to build a metal frame. It is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and the toilet itself is already attached to it. This applies if the tank and pipes need to be hidden behind a plasterboard wall. In some versions, a wall-mounted toilet with an open cistern can be mounted directly to the wall. But then it will be necessary to press the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is made using anchors that are mounted in a wall or frame.

Installing a toilet bowl on a tiled floor

The tiles should always be intact and beautiful, regardless of the workflows for installing the toilet. There are unspoken rules for this, the list of which is given below:

When installing the toilet, it is imperative to put on rubber gaskets under the anchor nuts and dowels. They will prevent cracks in the toilet when tightened and eliminate rusty streaks on ceramic tiles.

If the tiles are already installed, then the best solution would be to attach the toilet with epoxy or dowels.

Important! Deep holes cannot be made for dowels, because it is possible to break the waterproofing layer, which in turn can lead to more serious problems.

If you need to replace the old one or install a new toilet, some people immediately rush to seek the help of a specialist. You should not make hasty decisions, because it is not difficult to do this work on your own. It is enough to study in detail the instructions for the purchased product, deal with the nuances of installation and do it yourself. Modern connecting elements allow you to quickly and efficiently connect the toilet bowl to the sewer. Spending a little time, you will save significant money, because the cost of the work of an experienced plumber is almost equal to the cost of the purchased toilet.
Toilet classification
Many people think that the toilet is a modern invention, but it is not. Already at the end of the 16th century, it was invented for the Queen of England, but due to the lack of centralized water supply and sewerage, it was not widely used.
Modern toilets are available in different modifications and differ in the shape of the bowl, the method of installation and the type of drainage system. To make the right choice of such a device, you first need to familiarize yourself with the existing proposal and decide on the parameters of the toilet that you need.
By fastening method
There is a classification of toilets according to the method of attachment:
floor. They are the most affordable and best suited for spacious washrooms. Installation of such a product is carried out on anchor bolts, which allows, if necessary, to dismantle it without damaging the floor covering;
Floor-standing models are mounted on anchor bolts and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled
wall-mounted. This is one of the varieties of the floor-standing version, designed for installation in small bathrooms. According to the design of the flush system, such toilets are practically in no way inferior to suspended ones. There are corner wall units that are great for small washrooms;
A wall-mounted toilet differs from a floor-standing toilet only in that it is installed close to the wall
suspended. Also designed for installation in small rooms. Although outwardly such models seem to be very graceful and fragile, they are designed for a weight of up to 400 kg, therefore, they are very durable and reliable. Installation of a suspended structure makes it easier to clean the bathroom, and also frees up some of the free space. Such a toilet is attached in a frame or block way.
Wall hung toilet saves space

By release design
By the type of water flushing into the sewer system, there are toilets:
with vertical release. Such a solution is rare in our country, and, for example, in America it is very popular. This is due to the fact that in this country communications are often not attached to the wall, but carried out under the floor, so the toilet can be installed anywhere;
A toilet with a vertical outlet can be installed in any desired place, for this it is enough to bring the sewer pipes there
with a horizontal outlet. The toilet flush and the sewer outlet are aligned. Most modern models have this design;
A toilet with a horizontal outlet is designed for cases where the sewer hole is located in the wall
with oblique release. The angle of inclination of the toilet outlet is 40–45 °. Such models were popular in the 80s of the last century, they were installed in apartment buildings.
Toilets with an oblique outlet are placed when the communications fit along the lower part of the wall

By the type of tank attachment
If we talk about the type of tank attachment, then the toilet bowls can be of the following types:
with a separate tank. In this case, the tank is fixed under the ceiling, and it is connected to the bowl using a pipeline. This allows a high flush speed to be obtained, but the appearance of such a structure is not very attractive;
The cistern is located at some distance from the toilet bowl and is connected to it by a pipeline
with a shared cistern that attaches directly to the toilet bowl. The structure can be split, bolted or monolithic;
In most toilet models, the cistern is installed directly on the bowl
with hidden cistern. This solution allows you to implement a variety of design ideas. The hidden tank is fixed with a frame method;
Only the bowl remains in sight, and the cistern is hidden inside the toilet
without a tank. Usually such models are installed in public toilets, but can also be used in everyday life. In this case, the pressure into the bowl is supplied directly from the water supply system, and the water flow is controlled using an electronic or mechanical valve.
In a toilet without a cistern, water is supplied to the bowl directly from the main

By flush type
There are differences between toilets and in the direction of flow of water when flushing:

Most modern toilets have two flush modes - full and economical, which can almost halve water consumption.
The modern market offers a wide selection of both domestic and foreign toilets. Our models are cheaper as shipping and customs duties are not included. The main parameters that must be considered when choosing are:
The quality of the bowl coating. In order for the toilet to be comfortable to use, it must have a good flush. And for this, the bowl must be covered with high-quality glaze - if it is porous, then the dirt will constantly accumulate and you will have to use the brush more often.
Tank filling speed. The toilet bowl should have modern shut-off valves, then if several people live in the house, it will not be necessary to wait long for the drain to be restored after visiting the toilet by other people.
The presence of an economical mode. Since now almost all apartments are equipped with water meters, in order to reduce its consumption, it is necessary to purchase models with a double button. In this case, it is possible to perform a complete or economical drain.
Economy drain mode uses half the water
Bowl shape. It can be different: round, oval, squared, so if possible, it is better to sit on the toilet and practically appreciate its comfort.
Material type. Usually porcelain or earthenware is used for the manufacture of toilets. Porcelain products are of higher quality, but their prices are also higher. Outwardly, it is almost impossible to distinguish porcelain from faience, so it is imperative to study the product documentation. Now you can buy metal, glass models, toilet bowls made of reinforced plastic, natural or artificial stone.
Toilet bowls are made not only from traditional porcelain and earthenware, but also from natural stone, for example, marble
Cover quality. It should be rigid, made of duroplast and have an antibacterial coating. You should not buy a foam lid, as it will be a breeding ground for germs. Convenient when the cover is equipped with a microlift. It ensures smooth closing without noise or shock.
It is best to purchase toilets with a duroplast lid with a built-in microlift
Additional functions. Many manufacturers now equip their products with various options, but keep in mind that this increases the cost of the device. Before purchasing such a model, consider whether you need lighting, music from the toilet or a heated seat.

When choosing a toilet, you need to optimally combine your desires and financial capabilities. You can either donate some points and choose a more budgetary model, or buy a device with additional features.
Video: choosing a toilet

Preparing for installation
If you decide to install the toilet yourself, then before that you need to perform certain preparatory work. First you need to determine which model will be optimal in your case and only then purchase it.
Usually, the installation of the toilet is carried out during the repair in the bathroom. If there is a need to replace it in another case, then first you need to take out of the room objects that will interfere with the work, turn off the water supply and prepare all the necessary tools.
Required tools and materials
In order to install the toilet, you may need the following tools and materials:

If you are replacing the toilet, you must first dismantle the old device. The work process will be as follows:
Removing the tank. First you need to disconnect the water supply hose, then drain the water from it. Then open the lid, unscrew the fasteners and remove the tank.
Dismantling the toilet. Unscrew the fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor and disconnect it from the sewer pipe. If this does not work out right away, you need to shake the bowl a little. For the convenience of work, you can first cut off the toilet (if it will no longer be used), and then proceed to dismantle the mountings.
First, remove the tank, and then dismantle the bowl
Cleaning the sewer hole. It is necessary to clean the entrance to the sewer hole, and then close it with a rag so that foreign objects do not get there, and toxic fumes do not penetrate into the apartment.
The opening of the sewer pipe is cleaned of dirt and deposits

Surface preparation for installation
The choice of how to prepare the floor surface will depend on how the old toilet was installed. Previously, for mounting the toilet bowl in the floor, a board (taffeta) was embedded, after which the bowl was attached to it with screws. If the taffeta is normal, then it can be left. If you decide to remove the board, then the resulting place must be filled with mortar and covered with tiles.
The surface for installing the toilet must be cleaned and leveled
If the toilet was installed on a tile, simply unscrew it, as this will not damage the floor covering. After that, you can mark the places for the installation of the new toilet.
Assembling the toilet
To ensure the integrity of the plumbing equipment and save space during transportation to the store, it arrives disassembled. Do not be afraid of this, since each product comes with detailed assembly instructions, following which it will not be difficult to cope with this task.
How to connect a toilet bowl to a cistern
The main attention should be paid to the correct installation of the float, since it is he who regulates the filling of the tank with water. The process of assembling the toilet itself consists of the following stages:
Installation of the drain mechanism. The shut-off valves usually come already assembled, so you just have to install it in the tank. Pay particular attention to mating surfaces and watch for burrs. First, a sealing gum is installed, then the drain device and fix it with a nut.
The complete drainage mechanism is installed on a sealing rubber that protects the drainage point from leaking
Tank to shelf connection. The assembled tank is applied to the shelf on the toilet bowl and connected using the bolts and nuts provided in the kit. Do not forget to install rubber washers to ensure the tightness of the connection.
Rubber washer ensures a tight connection between the tank and bowl

During installation in the reservoir of the shut-off valves, all the nuts are tightened by hand, without applying great effort.
Place the toilet in the place where it will stand and align with plastic or rubber gaskets. Then they mark the attachment points, make holes in the floor and fix the toilet with the dowels.
Sewer connection
After installing the toilet, you need to connect it to the sewage system. There are some peculiarities when connecting models with vertical, horizontal or oblique drain.
Installing a toilet bowl with vertical outlet
Connection to the sewerage of a toilet bowl with a vertical outlet is carried out simultaneously with its installation:

Installation of a toilet bowl with a horizontal pipe
In this case, the outlet is directed backwards and a special collar is used to connect it to the sewer pipe. Its shape depends on the location of the outlet from the riser. If it is made horizontally, a straight adapter pipe of the appropriate diameter is used. If the drain pipe comes out at an angle, make an appropriate design from swivel elbows or from a corrugated hose.
To connect to the sewerage system of a toilet bowl with a horizontal outlet, a transitional structure of swivel elbows or flexible corrugation is used
Installing a toilet bowl with an oblique outlet
Very often, the oblique outlet of the toilet is located above or below the sewer pipe. There are two ways to mount such models:

Transition from cast iron pipes to plastic products
There are still cast-iron sewer pipes in the houses of the old building, and if they are in good condition, then they do not have to be changed, since you can make a connection with new plastic products.
There are several installation methods:
With a rubber gasket. This option is good to use if the cast-iron bell has a smooth edge. The cuff is lubricated with a sealant and inserted into the socket, after which a plastic pipe or adapter is inserted into it. A plastic pipe is inserted into a cast-iron pipe by 3–8 cm - if everything is done correctly, then such a connection will reliably serve for 6–8 years.
Sealing of plastic and cast iron pipes can be done with a rubber sleeve
With the use of linen winding. If no sealant is available, linen roll can be used. This is a time-tested method: a plastic pipe is wrapped with a linen winding, after which it is inserted into a cast-iron socket, and the winding is carefully tucked in with a narrow spatula. Then the seam is coated with a solution of PVA glue and dries throughout the day.
The gap between the plastic and cast-iron pipes is sealed with tow and poured with a solution
Combined method. To obtain the most tight connection, when the gap between the pipes to be connected is large, a combined installation method is used. At the same time, the stamping is carried out with the help of a winding and a rubber gasket is installed, after which the joint is coated with silicone sealant.
With a press fitting. This is a special element that, on the one hand, has a thread for a cast-iron pipe, and on the other, a socket for a plastic element. In this case, the edge of the old pipeline is cut off, after which it is lubricated with grease and the threads are cut. Then tow tow or FUM tape is wound, lubricated with a sealant and a press fitting is screwed on. A plastic pipe is inserted into the socket.
With the help of a press fitting, you can reliably connect a plastic pipe with a cast iron

When doing the joining of the cast-iron and plastic sewer system, it is important to follow the specified rules for performing work, this is the only way to obtain a high-quality and tight connection.
Corrugated connection
One of the most common ways to connect a toilet bowl to a sewer is to use a plastic corrugation. First you need to decide on the required size of this product. It is best to buy corrugation reinforced with wire or mesh - it is more durable and will last longer.
The procedure for connecting the toilet:

You can make the connection using plastic elbows, but unlike corrugations, they are not flexible. This solution is convenient to use when the sewer system was planned for a specific toilet model.
Rigid elbows are stronger and more durable, but when you replace the toilet or need to move it a little, you will have to change adapters or use a corrugation or eccentric.
To connect the toilet to the sewer, you can use a straight adapter or an element with an eccentric
Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of corrugation, but horizontal adapters and right angles must be avoided. Gray adapters are cheaper, but they look ugly with a white toilet.
Video: installing a toilet

Water connection
There are several ways to connect the toilet cistern to the water supply:

To connect to the water supply can be used:

The connection procedure will be the same regardless of the connection:

Video: connecting the toilet to the water supply

Features of connection of "monoblock" and "compact" models
The difference between "compact" and "monoblock" toilets lies in the type of connection of the cistern. If in the first case the tank is attached directly to the shelf located on the bowl, then in the second case the bowl and the tank are made in a single body.
In the "monoblock" toilet bowl, the bowl and the cistern are made in a single body
Both types of toilets are floor-mounted, and the way they are connected to the drain will depend on the type of flush. Installation is carried out in the same way as shown above. The only difference is that for the "compact" it is necessary to independently install and adjust the shut-off valves, while for the "monoblock" it is already assembled and adjusted by the manufacturer.
Hanging toilet: installation features
If the area of the toilet is small and you want to save free space, experts recommend installing a wall-mounted toilet model. Installation of such a device is carried out on an installation - a special support frame.
The technology for mounting a wall-hung toilet includes the following steps:
Installation selection. It is usually supplied with a cistern, a flush button, and the necessary fittings and adapters. The bowl can also be included or you have to buy it separately.
The installation usually includes a tank, adapters and pipes
Determination of the seat height. Installation of the installation is possible only on a solid wall, which can withstand a weight of about 400 kg, therefore, it cannot be installed on a plasterboard structure. The toilet seat is usually installed at a height of 40–48 cm, it all depends on the height of the users - you need to make sure that everyone is comfortable.
Markup. The central axis of the installation is marked and its distance from the adjacent wall is determined. It should provide a convenient connection of the water supply and sewerage system, therefore it is usually at least 14 cm. The tank is placed at a height of 1 meter from the floor.
The height of the wall-hung toilet should be 40–48 cm above floor level
Drilling holes. In the marked places, holes are made into which the dowels are inserted.
Installation of the installation body with a plastic cistern. It must be set in a vertical and horizontal plane, therefore, a building level must be used. The adjustment is carried out by changing the height of the legs.
With the help of adjustable feet, the installation is level
Installing the drain button. It can be mechanical or pneumatic.
Lining up communications. The water supply is usually carried out using rigid pipes, since they are more durable and reliable. The pipes of the tank are fixed with clamps and the sewer outlet is mounted at an angle of 45 o.
Installing the bowl. It is attached to the studs using a shock-absorbing pad. Connect the bowl and the nozzles of the tank. They check the work of the toilet.
The structure of the installation is most often finished with moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Video: installation of a wall-hung toilet

System health check
Regardless of what type of toilet you have installed, before you start using it, you need to check the functionality of the system. This is easy to do: you need to turn on the water and wait until the tank is full. After that, the water is drained and all the joints of the toilet bowl with the water supply and sewerage system are inspected.
If there are no leaks, then everything is fine. If leaks were found in some of the connections, it is necessary to check and correct the seals and again perform a control drain of the water. It is also necessary to check the reliability of fixing the toilet, it must be fixed firmly.
Typical errors and ways to eliminate them
When doing self-assembly of the toilet bowl, home craftsmen can make typical mistakes, which can also be eliminated with your own hands:

If you loosely secured the toilet, then this can soon lead to a leakage of the joints, as well as to its damage.
Video: installation errors

Almost any home craftsman can install a toilet on his own. To do this, you need to choose the right type of toilet bowl and, in accordance with this, carry out its installation. If you strictly follow the instructions and recommendations of specialists, then a toilet bowl installed with your own hands will perform the necessary functions for a long time and reliably.

The majority of compatriots, in particular, skilled folk craftsmen, often independently undertake the repair of the house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they treat the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief in their own strengths. And although often for the installation of a toilet, for example, you have to pay the mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!

Preparing for installation

Of course, it doesn't hurt you to familiarize yourself with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that the installation, direct installation and connection to the general sewage system of all types of bathrooms practically do not differ from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.

Different systems are made up of similar elements

Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. During the installation of the drain and filling system, there should be no difficulties. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to adjust the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.

Check the complete set of the cistern

Application deserves special attention. This solution is very easy to use. We will tell you about the installation in detail in a separate review.

Installing the toilet in steps

Consider the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new settlers, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.

So, for self-installation of a newly purchased toilet bowl, you need to perform the following steps:

It's all! Self-assembly of the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: it is necessary to allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, do not feel sorry for the sealant! There is never too much of it in the editing business. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.

Note: For self-installation of the bathroom and its cistern, you do not need professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable wrenches.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

This model is especially popular in Europe. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downward during installation. This versatile design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.

For installation, you need to do just a few steps:

Make floor markings and install a conventional screw flange with a locking device;

Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;

Mount the toilet bowl on the flange, securely fix the outlet pipe.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Or, in other words, with a direct release "into the wall". The most common in Russia. The release of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet in this design is connected to the sewer pipe by means of a specific collar.

Pay attention in the installation procedure to fixing the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet bowl, as a rule, are equipped with specific holes designed to fix the plumbing to the floor surface.

Advice: You should start connecting a bathroom with a direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Secure the structure with all care, as excessively strong and sharp screw "pulling" is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.

Slanting toilet

Consider the main points of installation:

Specificity of connection without corrugation

We have already examined the connection of the bathroom to the general sewage system using corrugated pipes in the step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet bowl without the use of corrugations, and won't this process be more complicated? Such a connection, of course, is possible, while it is unlikely to cause you any questions.

If you are finally convinced of the uselessness of corrugations, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:

Mandatory use of a funnel pipe. Given the angle of the toilet bowl, the adapter can be connected using different methods:

bathroom with oblique outlet- installation is carried out on the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet- installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet- the angle of installation is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out into the wall.

If the release of the bathroom is not suitable for the release of the sewerage system, it is necessary: either to purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible pipes-adapters.

Thus, installing the toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the steps of the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics of the plumbing installation. It will cost you significantly less than calling the professionals at home.

In the next article we will explain.