How to form chrysanthemums in the garden. Chrysanthemum fertilizers

Luxurious inflorescences in autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from its congeners in the open field in the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to the lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding to care, grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Compositae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. Good developed plant, intended to be kept indoors, will continue to bloom on the windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after independent propagation by cuttings or root suckers, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in the store.

Street chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in a container, used for container gardening, patio decoration, house entrance. After flowering, the stems are cut, the containers with the roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If a street chrysanthemum keep indoors, her leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need fresh air and a certain lighting mode - the night is longer than the day.

Potted Chrysanthemum Varieties

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. The inflorescences can be smaller or the same size as those of open field plants. Varieties are often grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum indian

In nature, it is relatively low herbaceous plant... The leaves are serrated, green-gray in color. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. Is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on a windowsill and a balcony.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species with white and pink inflorescences. Breeders, with the help of chemicals that affect growth, have obtained compact forms with a height of 20-25 cm. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that feel good in the room and are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive to cold period time.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

"Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with big amount large yellow inflorescences.
"Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
"Morifolium" is a variety with large, single, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. Leaves are deep green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. On the upper side of the leaf blade, pinpoint glands are noticeable. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums are simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Buy a plant in flower shop or accepted as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and opening of buds. The amount of light is suitable that is provided when the pot is placed on the windowsill of a plastic or wooden windowsfacing west and east. The rays hit at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with 6–8 hours of daylight in October or November (depending on the region).

A comfortable temperature for a room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding in terms of keeping conditions, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in the summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Indoor chrysanthemum prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnant water in a pot can lead to rotting roots, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

The substrate should not be allowed to dry out.
In autumn and winter, watered once a week in the morning.
Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
In the heat, water is sprayed nearby indoor plants to reduce the air temperature.
Used for watering and spraying the settled water. If it is tough, then white bloom accumulates on the soil surface.
Avoid getting drops on flowers.

Abundantly blooming chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Liquid fertilizing is carried out once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. The potted plant is fed about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future you do not regulate the growth of shoots, then several long stems appear, which reduces decorativeness.

Pinching rapidly growing shoots is performed. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will need 2 or 3 treatments.
Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree by shortening the main shoot and cutting off the lower branches.
Pinching buds that begin to wither helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed if flowering is delayed. Selective pinching of the tops of the peduncles will ensure flow nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants need to renew the substrate. They are transferred into a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1: 1: 1). You can use ready-made potting soil.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as a loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and soil nutritional value (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplanting, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants with a plastic bag. At first they provide diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend pruning the stems, leaving short areas above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed to a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in as it was on the windowsill in the room. Option three: to stimulate shoot growth and formation compact bush pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum will sprout and bloom in the same season.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root suckers (babies). Young plants can be grown from these additional shoots. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the plant depth at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

Young shoots are cut from an adult plant.
Fill transparent plastic container from cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
Cuttings are planted, covered with a lid from the container.
After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seeds. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually at seed reproduction chrysanthemums varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and disease. Yellowing may be due to a lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of spots of a grayish-yellow or brown color with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is associated with poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the lack of buds and flowers are lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens when there is an excess of feeding and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. For these fungal infections, they are treated with fungicides for indoor plants. Chrysanthemum is damaged by aphids, black midges sciarids, soil mites, springtails. The leaves are treated with a solution of the drug Aktellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, the flowers are taken out to the balcony. Window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, they change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended to carefully consider the choice of substrate. Typically, pathogens and plant pests are found in the land brought from the garden and vegetable garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight with flowering for a long time.

The success of chrysanthemum cultivation largely depends on the ability to form a bush, choose the best buds and remove stepchildren in time. This is especially important for large-flowered varieties. Chrysanthemum bush formation different types carried out in different ways.

How to form a chrysanthemum bush

The main method of forming chrysanthemums is by pinching, which is carried out during June. The upper part of the shoots is removed during the active growth of the plant before the buds appear. Pinching helps to get a bush beautiful shape and abundant flowering.

The easiest way with Korean chrysanthemums is that they do not require special shaping. At the end of May, seedlings are planted in open ground at a distance of 40 cm from each other. In this case, it is important to thoroughly compact the soil around the plants, otherwise the shoots will stretch out, and the flowering will be weak. When the shoot has 6-8 leaves, you need to pinch it.

The methods of forming a bush of hybrid large-flowered and small-flowered chrysanthemums are different. When forming small-flowered varieties main goal obtaining a well-developed crown with a large number of inflorescences and shoots. To do this, pinch the tops of the shoots over 4-5 leaves. The remaining buds give 2-4 shoots, which are then also pinched over the 7th leaf. The result is a nice bush with a magnificent crown with up to 40 inflorescences.

Looks very original standard form plants. For this, the main shoot is grown up to the desired height, pinch the top and remove side shoots, leaving only 2-4 shoots on top, which are pinched 2-3 times until a good crown is obtained.
Large-flowered varieties are pinched at a height of about 10-15 cm, the apical bud is removed, because the central shoot usually gives a small, poorly formed inflorescence. Of the shoots obtained, 1-3 are left, removing all lateral buds and shoots from them, except for the apical one. The interval between the last pinch and flowering is 30 days.

In addition to pinching, large-flowered varieties need to remove stepchildren - shoots developing from the leaf axils. At the same time, shoots and lateral buds are plucked out, doing this daily from mid-July, and in August-September - once every three days. Stepsons are removed when they are easily plucked out with their fingers

Another method of forming a bush of chrysanthemums, usually used for large-flowered varieties, is pinching the buds. It is necessary to choose the best inflorescence, but for this you need to know the peculiarities of their development. The first spring bud appears in May or early June. Its development suppresses the second-order shoot following it, which gives the first crown bud. True, it may also not develop due to a third-order shoot, on which a bud (second crown) also appears, and then a third crown. Observations have shown that best flowers are formed from the first or second crown bud. That is why only one of them is left, and the second is removed. The first spring and third crown bud are also removed.

Pinching can also be carried out on medium-flowered and small-flowered varieties. Their best inflorescences are obtained from the second crown buds after double pinching.

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Chrysanthemums are beautiful plants, which are represented by a wide variety of inflorescences. This plant lends itself very well to forming, which is very often used by gardeners to obtain an aesthetically pleasing plant. Success in growing this plant can be achieved with the ability to correctly form a bush and choose the most suitable bud from which it will appear magnificent inflorescence... It is also necessary to choose the right time for pinching and remove side shoots in time.

Very an important milestone during the formation of the plant is the removal of the upper part of the stem and pinching. This activity allows you to delay the growth of the plant, due to which root system strengthens, and new lateral shoots are formed. The number and timing of pinching directly affect the height of the plant. Depending on the variety of the plant and the timing of its reproduction, a different number of pinching is carried out. If the plant is of early varieties, then pinch it 1 to 3 times. If grafting was carried out at a later time, then such plants are grown with one pinching or no pinching at all.

Pinching provides fast growth for the plant and its lateral shoots, so the first pinching is carried out over 5 or 7 leaves. After ten days, such a cutting can be planted in the soil. The second pinching is carried out 15 days after the first, and later should be carried out 2.5 months before the flowering of the plant.

Features of different varieties of chrysanthemums

It is worth paying attention to the features of growth different varieties chrysanthemums. It must be remembered here that early varieties chrysanthemums are pinched once and occasionally twice. Later cuttings are grown without pinching at all. Chrysanthemums of late and medium varieties are pinched up to 3 times and always take into account the timing of cuttings. In order to get large flowers on the stem large varieties chrysanthemums only need one flower.

Chrysanthemum seedlings, which have been obtained by cuttings, require special care... She will need watering and feeding. But, nevertheless, for a plant during this period it is very important correct formation plants. Have different types and plant varieties are formed in completely different ways. Perennial plants include hybrid chrysanthemums, Korean, which can perfectly winter in our conditions.

Korean chrysanthemums are the simplest and do not require special shaping. Seedlings of such a plant must be planted around the 20th of May. After planting, the plants must be carefully compacted in the soil in order to avoid abundant growth of shoots. In the first days after planting a flower, it must be watered abundantly.

Hybrid chrysanthemums can be divided into large and small flowering. In varieties with small flowers, using pinching, they try to get a well-developed crown with a significant number of inflorescences and shoots. To pinch young plants, the process is carried out on 4 or 5 leaves. From the buds that remain, over time, from 2 to 4 shoots are obtained, which must also be pinched on 7 or 8 leaves. As a result, we are able to get a plant with a well-developed crown.

Concerning large-flowered chrysanthemums, then they are pinched 10-15 cm, while removing the upper bud, because the central shoot gives a poorly formed bud. This variety of chrysanthemums must be planted in pots and tied up with pegs, and at the end of May, the flower, along with the pot, is dug into the open ground. Knowing how to plant a chrysanthemum, you can get beautiful plants with a large number of inflorescences and a well-formed crown.

Chrysanthemums of low-growing varieties are mainly grown in a pot:

Chrysanthemum chinese- hybrid perennial... The height of low-growing varieties is up to 70 cm. Oval leaves with a bright aroma. Flowers - large-toothed, simple and terry, of various colors.
Chrysanthemum indian- ideal for indoor cultivation. Height - up to 50 cm. Particularly popular varieties: Snow Elf, Alt Gold, Aurora, Helen.
Korean chrysanthemum is good for growing in a pot. Globular flowers - bright different colors. The most common varieties: Orange Jam, Navare, Stella.

Features of caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot

Despite the fact that chrysanthemum is an unpretentious plant, growing it at home has some peculiarities. By adhering to them, you can grow a strong plant that blooms for a long time.

1. Temperature

Chrysanthemum prefers fresh air and relative coolness. The temperature is considered comfortable for them from + 10 ° to + 15 °, maximum - + 18 °. it optimum temperature, in which the flower gains many buds and blooms for a long time.

The plant will tolerate well and hot summer if placed in a shaded and ventilated place. In winter, a suitable temperature for chrysanthemums is + 2 ° to + 5 °.

2. Lighting

Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant and blooms when the day decreases to 8-10 hours. Chrysanthemum is a light-loving flower, but does not tolerate direct sunlight.

The most suitable place for a chrysanthemum is the windows on the east or west side of the room. On windows facing north, chrysanthemum may not bloom. On the south side, the plant must be shaded.

3. Soil

The soil for the chrysanthemum should be loose and nutritious, but not acidic. To prepare the potting mix you will need: garden and sod land, sand and humus in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1.

For intense color of flowers, chicken manure can be added to the soil mixture.

5. Watering

Chrysanthemum needs good watering. It is necessary to water the flower regularly every 3-5 days. At the slightest dryness of the soil, the flowers and buds wither, and with an excess of moisture, the plant may die. Therefore, chrysanthemum should be watered as soon as the topsoil becomes dry.

Watering preferably with filtered or rain water. It is advisable to settle tap water for 1-2 days. Too hard water can be boiled and water the plants with chilled water.

6. Humidity

Chrysanthemum needs high humidity after all, initially she garden plant... Chrysanthemum care includes regular spraying with water. It is advisable to spray the plant in the morning.

It is better to use purified water for spraying, since tap water can leave plaque on the leaves. You can humidify the air by placing a container of water next to the flowers or using a humidifier. In autumn and winter, spraying is stopped.

7. Top dressing

Chrysanthemum must be fertilized regularly in order for it to develop properly and bloom magnificently.

Once every 2 weeks, the plant must be fed:

During the growing season (spring-summer), when the plant is gaining mass, feed with fertilizer with a lot of nitrogen.
When the chrysanthemum prepares to bloom and forms buds, it needs potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

The first feeding should be carried out 2-3 weeks after transplanting. If there is enough humus in the soil, then the first feeding should be carried out in a month and a half.

8. Planting chrysanthemums in a pot

Depending on the type of chrysanthemum and the number of cuttings, choose a container for the plant:

For 1 plant - a container with a diameter of 9 cm.
For 3 plants - 11 cm.
For 5 plants - 13 cm.

Pour a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the container - for drainage.
Fill the container 2/3 with soil mixture.
A seedling is placed in the mixture and set so that the roots are on the surface. Cover with compost carefully. After planting, do not compact the soil so as not to damage the roots.
Moisten the ground with a spray bottle and make sure the ground is always moist.
Place the container in a bright place, temperature up to + 10 °.

In order for the chrysanthemum to develop actively, growth biostimulants can be used.

10. Transfer

Chrysanthemum should be transplanted in the same way as most indoor plants. Young plants, up to 5 years old - replant every year, adults - once every 2 years.

After a period of rest, when the first shoots appear, the chrysanthemum should be transplanted:

Take the container for transplanting 2 - 3 cm wider than the previous one.
Pour drainage on the bottom of the container - a layer of expanded clay, on top - a soil mixture (as described above).
Carefully remove the chrysanthemum from the old pot and transfer to a new container.
Cover the gaps with earth and compact slightly.
To prevent water from flowing out of the pot when watering, do not fill up the soil to the very edge of the container.
Water the plant thoroughly.

How to prune a chrysanthemum

1. Formation of a bush

Pruning involves the removal of the upper part of the stem, due to which the growth of the plant slows down, the root system develops, and lateral shoots appear:

Start pruning 10-15 days after planting.
From the stem, 12-15 cm long, cut off the top of the plant with 3-4 leaves with a sharp knife or pruner.
After pruning, water the plant with nitrogen fertilizer.
Shoots are formed in the leaf axils 2-3 weeks after pruning.

Pruning should not be carried out during transplanting.

2. Preparing for the rest period

After flowering, the chrysanthemum must be cut off. Retreat 5-10 cm from the soil surface, cut the stems of the plant with a secateurs.

If you notice that the plant is damaged by aphids, then cut off the diseased stems. Healthy plants after patients cannot be cut with the same tool.

After pruning, the plants are removed to a cool (no more than + 5 °) dark room until spring. Cropping is necessary. The plant will rest and gain strength for better growth and flowering. During rest, the plant needs to be watered occasionally.

You can postpone the rest period if the bush is healthy and strong enough:

Cut the plant, transplant into a larger container. Completely replace the old substrate with a new one.
Put the chrysanthemum in a bright, warm place, temperature from + 18 ° to + 20 °.
Water the flower 2-3 times a week.
Feed with nitrogenous fertilizer every 2 weeks.
After the first buds appear, feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

With proper care, the chrysanthemum will bloom in 2-2.5 months. But after flowering, it must be sent to rest.

Potted chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemum reproduces in 3 ways:

By cuttings.
By dividing the bush.
Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a period of rest, one month before grafting, transfer the container with chrysanthemum to a lighted warm place (from + 10 ° to + 12 °).

When 4-6 leaves are formed on the shoots, you can start grafting:

It is better to take a high capacity, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1: 2: 0.5, given that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1: 1.
Put drainage on the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, make the lower cut under the internode. Remove the bottom leaves.
Dip the cutting into a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into the moistened sand at an angle of 45 ° with an interval of 5 cm between them.
Cover the container with glass or foil and place the container with cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from + 17 ° to + 20 °).
Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily with a spray bottle.
Cuttings take root from 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that has appeared on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Division of the bush

Simple and more reliable way reproduction of chrysanthemum is the division of the bush during the period of intensive growth of shoots.

Up to 6 divisions are obtained from one bush of overwintered plants:

Water the bush before dividing.
Pour into new pot drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf soil, sand and humus. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that a root is preserved on each part to be separated.
Put the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with earth. Do not compact the ground.
After transplanting, water the shoots gently, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally blur the soil.
Place the container with shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than + 20 °) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the delenki will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Sowing time is determined by the time of the beginning of flowering:

Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus into the container, 2: 0.5: 1.
Moisten the substrate and spread the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, since they need light for germination. Or sprinkle with a thin layer of light soil.
Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and put it in a bright room (t from + 10 ° to + 15 °).
Moisten the soil with a spray bottle only.
Seedlings will appear in 7-12 days. Remove the shelter.
After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, the plant dives with an interval of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before the flowering of the chrysanthemum, plant it in a permanent place.

Disease and pest control

Aphids damage plant shoots and leaves on the underside, which turn yellow and fall off. Spray with Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Aktellik. In case of severe damage, repeat the spraying.

Red spider mite damages leaves that turn pale yellow and fall off. Dry air can be the cause of the disease. Spray with insecticides.
Septoria- yellow, and then brown spots appear on the leaves. Remove diseased leaves and treat with fungicide. Do not spray the plant for several weeks, reduce watering. The cause of the disease is an excess of nitrogenous fertilizer.
Powdery mildewcovers stems and leaves with a white bloom. The cause of the disease is high humidity... Treat the plant with a fungicide.
Gray rot - appear on the plant brown spots, then covered with a gray bloom. The cause of the disease is high humidity... Treat the plant with Fundazol. Repeat the treatment after a few days.

It must be remembered that chemicals unsafe. If possible, use for processing in closed room you need biologics.

When using pesticides, take all precautions and ventilate the room thoroughly.

Frequently asked questions and answers

Question. Why isn't the chrysanthemum blooming?

Answer. The chrysanthemum must bloom in autumn. If this did not happen, then her care is violated. The reasons for the lack of flowering: the timing of cutting the plant is violated, the chrysanthemum does not have enough light, poor soil or lack of fertilizers.

Question. Do I need to pinch a chrysanthemum?

Answer. Yes, it needs to be shaped. In order not to get a long single trunk, when the shoots are 10-15 cm, you need to pinch them. During the growing season - 2-3 times. The last pinching should be done 2 weeks before the beginning of flowering, somewhere in the middle of August. To form a beautiful spherical bush, you need to cut off any overgrown shoots.

Question. Why does chrysanthemum dry?

Answer.Chrysanthemum leaves dry for several reasons. Increased plant temperature, pests, poor soil and frequent watering... If the plant is proper care, all top dressing was carried out, with a close examination no pests were found, then the chrysanthemum must be carefully dug out. Inspect the roots, if they began to rot, then all rotten roots must be removed. Transplant the flower into another pot with fresh but moist soil. Do not water the plant for several days.

Question. Where to store chrysanthemums in winter?

Answer.In a cool room - on the veranda, the insulated balcony. If this is not possible, then you can store it on the windowsill, cutting off the plant minimally, removing all dry branches and leaves. Water in the same way as during the growing season. You can put a flower in the basement for the winter. Cut the bush, remove all dried and rotten twigs and leaves. Water the ground 2 days before "wintering". When placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not damp.