Propagation of lilac cuttings. Methods of propagation of various varieties of lilacs at home

Lilac is an incredibly beautiful and lush bush that will become an adornment of any garden and home garden. In addition, lilacs are very pleasantly fragrant, filling the entire space around with a delicate, floral aroma. Many gardeners are familiar with the moment when they decide to propagate any tree or bush, and in this case they encounter certain difficulties, not knowing how to do it correctly. In this article, we will tell you how to properly propagate lilacs so that it takes root and blooms the very next year.

There are three ways to propagate lilacs, and all of them are vegetative - vaccination, using cuttings and layering.

Also, lilac bushes are divided into two categories: root and grafted. The life cycle of the root-owning lilac is much longer (from 25 to 50 years), the care is very simple, you do not need to regularly remove the basal shoots, and in the future there will be a significant advantage - such bushes provide better planting material. However, lilac propagates using cuttings, too.

Selection of planting material

Experience has shown that small cuttings rooted in thin sprouting twigs that grow not vertically, but at an angle to upright sprout shoots are better rooted. But before selecting planting material, you need to make sure the plant is clean and quality, it should bloom at least once.

It is best not to allow the uterine plants to grow strongly in height, to keep them low, then it is more convenient to harvest cuttings. The annual cutting of cuttings can weaken the queen cells, therefore, in the process of harvesting material, shoots of the current year that are longer than 20 cm are cut by 70-80% of the total length. If possible, it is better to give the plants a rest for 1 year.

Uterine plants need regular feeding and watering. It is worth noting that an excessive amount of fertilizer, as well as strong pruning, lead to the formation of a large number of fatty shoots. Green shards from such shoots are weakly rooted.

Rooting green cuttings of lilac is difficult; in greenhouses you should not expect results above 30, a maximum of 50 percent. In the process of harvesting, it is important to cut the cuttings correctly; the cut should be oblique, exactly under the knot. If you cut between the nodes, the stalk will not be able to take root.

The harvesting of cuttings occurs during flowering or after its completion. They are cut into lengths of about 15 cm, without breaking the leaves. Before planting the material, it is stored unfolded under a plastic wrap.

First, all leaves are removed from the lower node.

Using the sharpened secateurs, an oblique cut is made slightly below the node from which the leaves were removed.

The remaining sheets must be shortened by about half.

We remove the top of the shoot at a right angle.

Preparing cuttings before planting

In order to increase the likelihood of rooting, it is worthwhile to treat green cuttings with a growth regulator, for example, heteroauxin in an aqueous or alcoholic solution.

For the uterine method, it is necessary to prepare the uterine solution in advance. You will need 98% ethyl alcohol or acetone, as well as a growth regulator in powder (calculation of 1g per 100 ml of alcohol). Store this solution in a dark glass dish for about two months. An alcohol solution is prepared by diluting the mother liquor with alcohol twice.

For lilac, an aqueous solution is used more concentrated than for other plants - 150-200 mg. heteroauxin per 1 liter.

When an alcohol solution is used, the cuttings are lowered into it for only a few seconds, they are kept in the aqueous solution for 16 to 18 hours, and then washed with water. Prepared cuttings are planted in greenhouses, or in low greenhouses, which are in partial shade. When planting, you can not use soil mixtures that contain sand, since in them the lilac is poorly strengthened by the roots.

The most suitable soil composition: 1/4 coarse-grained perlite, 1/4 high peat and 2/4 lowland.

The landing site is prepared in this way: pour 10-15 cm of drainage layer from rubble or expanded clay, 15-20 cm of humus or rotted manure, and on top of all this about 5 cm of soil mixture. Further, all this is compacted and watered.

The place for planting cuttings is prepared as follows: 10 - 15 centimeters of the drainage layer (crushed stone or expanded clay can be used), 15 - 20 centimeters of humus or rotted manure and from above from 5 to 8 centimeters of the soil mixture. All this must be sealed and carefully watered from a watering can.

The planting process and subsequent care of the cuttings

Pre-prepared cuttings are planted in rows in a greenhouse at a distance of about 10 cm and 5 cm between the cuttings, then water everything abundantly. Next, you need to make a shelter for cuttings, which is made of plastic film and wooden sticks, from which they make a low frame, up to half a meter high.

Next comes the period of rooting of lilac, when the cuttings are watered no more than 1 time per week, simultaneously removing fallen leaves. The first roots will appear only after one and a half to two months, and just by this time you can begin to air the greenhouse, but only in the evening. Later you can completely remove the shelter, and in the fall transplant the cuttings to a permanent place of their growth.

If you see that the cuttings are weakly rooted, you can transplant them only in the spring, after wrapping them up for the winter. In the process of transplantation, remember the fragility of the root system, and therefore be very careful.

The results of the work done depend both on the correct manipulations and on the variety of the lilac itself. Such varieties are best rooted: Dream, Hope, Buffon. Javemeyer, Katerina and Ludwig Shpet breed poorly.

And the various colors of the bud itself are simply mesmerizing. You can see white, purple, blue, pink flowers. To date, scientists know about 30 species of this amazing bush. Very often, having met a charming ornamental plant, I want to plant it on my site. But how to do that? How does the reproduction of lilacs actually happen? Learn some important secrets. But before you learn how to propagate lilacs at home, let's look at the preferences of this plant.

Features

Lilac is a thermophilic, and generally unpretentious plant. The shrub is very fond of sunlight and freedom. Therefore, it is better to plant a lilac in a place where it can grow freely. However, the bush does not really like drafts, so keep this in mind when planting. The soil is suitable for any, not even the most fertile, possibly stony. Lilac does not like stagnation of moisture, so you can plant a bush for drainage. At least it will only contribute to normal growth. Lilac unpretentious in the care and planting. Therefore, it does not require any mineral top dressing.

Reproduction methods

Shrub propagates:

cuttings;
layering;
root shoot.

We will dwell on each of these methods in more detail. So.

Cuttings

Reproduction of lilac in this way is quite simple. You will need a stalk. Suitable as a young, green pagon, but also already numb. It can be cut in the spring, summer, and also in the deep autumn, when the bush dropped its leaves. Let's dwell on those cuttings that are cut in the spring, during the flowering of the bush. What do you need to know?

gently cut the stalk, on which from 4 to 6 leaves are located. Usually this is a twig with three to four pairs of buds. We leave a sheet on it;
before planting the stalk, you need to remove the leaves from the last two buds;
cut a sprig of bevel;
the top of the twigs should be cut in a straight line;
you can treat the cuttings with special solutions for growth and leave them for 18 hours;
preparing a pit for landing. To do this, pour drainage at the bottom, about 15 cm., Pour liquid humus, and pour plenty of water;
we plant cuttings, leaving 5 cm from each other;
cover with a film;
water them about 1 time per week;
we remove the fallen leaves;
we select the best shoots and transplant to a permanent place, remove weak shoots.

As you can see, the method of propagation by cuttings is very simple. Sometimes you can not immediately plant the cuttings in the ground, but first plant them in a pot. But you should immediately understand that you will not have 100 solutions. About 50% of all cuttings are rejected or not accepted.

If you need to grow lilacs from already woody branches, then they should be prepared in late autumn. Trim the cuttings as shown above and leave in the damp sand in the basement to winter. Then, in spring, transplant Chubuki into warm earth. With this method, the planted lilac will begin to bloom in about 5-7 years.

Root shoot

Lilac is an amazing bush, which also propagates by shoots. This is perhaps the easiest way to transplant, it does not require much effort from the owner. A new bush usually has very strong roots, is well rooted and grows without requiring special care. At the same time, the new bush fully retains the features of its variety, which is important for true connoisseurs of lilacs.

A young seedling separates from the maternal root system by about the month of October, it is during this period that it is worth planting it. Indeed, at the end of October, juice movement is significantly reduced, and trauma to the root system from a transplant will be minimal. For transplanting, it is best to choose a non-sunny day and water the new bush with plenty. Everything should be done very carefully so as not to damage the young pagons.

Layering

Talking about how lilac propagates, it is impossible not to recall the Chinese method. Its essence is as follows:

in the spring, near a well-taken 3-4 year old lilac bush, small furrows are made in the ground, about 20 mm wide .;
they put the strongest shoots there and fix them several times;
pull the shoots with copper wire;
sprinkle shoots with earth. From the nodes vertical shoots should grow;
sprout shoots when they grow to a distance of 15 cm .;
regularly watered;
at the end of September, the land around the bush is removed and transplanted for growing.

This is a more troublesome method of reproduction, but it has the right to life.

Seeds

Lilac also propagates with the help of seeds. Collect them in the fall from the bush that you would like to grow. Seeds need to be dried a little so that the wings do not open. The seeds are mixed with sand and stored in the refrigerator for several months. After this procedure, it is worth transplanting the seeds into a special container or pot. Seeds of ordinary lilac will begin to emerge after about 2 weeks, varietal - a little longer. After you dive young growth, they can be carried to the ground. Some practice sowing seeds directly into the ground. This should be done in November, October, before the first frosts.

As you can see, lilac can be grown in a variety of ways. The main thing is to achieve the set result.

Lilac is famous for the beauty of its flowers and wonderful aroma, so many want to plant it on their site. The tree will look great in the country or on the adjacent territory of urban buildings.

Not everyone knows how to grow lilac from a twig. It is necessary to ensure that the plant begins, does not hurt and delights with its wonderful flowers. Read more about this in the article.

The advantage of grafting

Cuttings of lilacs have advantages over other options for producing finished bushes. With the independent use of seeds, difficulties can arise, since they are not always easy to germinate.

The purchase of seedlings leads to additional costs, so the cuttings of lilacs will also be a profitable option. If you understand the intricacies of landing in other ways, you can choose any. Any method requires careful preparation and phasing. Do not forget about care, which should be regular.

The choice of cuttings

Before you learn how to grow a lilac from a branch, you need to choose the right stalk - it depends on whether the shoot will take place or not. The branch needs to be cut carefully. This should be done in early spring, when the stalk is not yet in active growth, otherwise it will be difficult for him to take root.

It is necessary to cut green branches of medium thickness. A stalk from the crown of a young bush fits perfectly, preferably from the middle. It will be possible to grow a bush if there are 2-3 nodules and small internodes on the branch. It is advisable to cut the cuttings in the early morning - they will be better taken.

Treatment

How to grow lilac from a twig? How to make the stalk well received? To do this, it is necessary to process it qualitatively: remove the leaves from the lower node, and then perform an oblique cut with a sharp knife. It is advisable to use grafting secateurs.

This must be done carefully so as not to get a cut on the internodes. Next, shorten the leaf plates by half. Remove the top of the shoot completely with a straight incision. After this, the stalk can be used for planting.

Landing

So, how to grow lilac from a twig? After processing and trimming, the stalk must be lowered into the “Epin-extra” solution. After 16 hours, it must be removed and washed with clean water.

Next, plant the cuttings in enriched soil. The earth must be mixed with sand, peat or perlite in equal amounts and placed in a branch so that the bottom node is covered. Immediately water with a fungicide solution to protect the plant from fungus.

Watering

How to grow a bush from a sprig of lilac? For this, it is necessary to provide high-quality watering. After planting, the plant must be sprayed from the spray gun, and then pritenit it.

Within a few weeks, watering should be done 3-5 times a day. This is necessary to ensure the desired humidity. Each week, a solution of potassium permanganate must be sprayed onto the leaves to protect the plant from bacteria and fungi. It is best to cover with a bottle to preserve moisture.

Care

The plant requires quality care. The roots on it will appear after 2 months. After this, it is necessary to ventilate the plant, preferably in the evenings: remove the bottle from it for 1 hour.

Rooting of the plant occurs in the fall. If necessary, it can be transplanted to a place where there is a lot of light and fertile soil. Conditions can be improved by fertilizing the earth with compost, humus, wood ash.

Seeds

This option is suitable for species specimens, since the cultivation of lilac seeds entails the loss of variety characteristics. The method is suitable for obtaining stock. This option attracts breeders with the opportunity to obtain new varieties.

First, the seeds are stratified for 2 months at a temperature of +2 ... + 5 ° C, and then sown in the spring in the soil mixture - peat and sand (2: 1). Germination time in all varieties is different, for example, in ordinary lilac - 13-16 days.

After 4 leaves are formed, the seedling picks at a distance of 3-4 cm. In May they can be planted in open ground, and by the autumn they will adapt. With the first frosts, seedlings should be covered with a layer of peat 8-10 cm thick for the winter.

Cultivation of lilac can be performed in other ways, for example, layering and budding. Each method has its own characteristics, but in all cases it is necessary to go through all the stages of preparation so that the plant is well received and grows healthy.

How to grow lilac from a branch in a pot? The procedure is performed as described above, you just need to choose a container - it can be a plastic or ceramic pot. It is important to follow the sequence of actions, as with the classic landing, only then you can expect excellent results.

It is easier to grow in a greenhouse, as the greenhouse effect allows you to create ideal conditions. In addition, humidity is quite suitable for the root system. In winter, the plant should be covered with spruce spruce branches. For several years, the bush should be loosened, weed, be sure to add top dressing. Compost and humus can serve as fertilizer. Proper care ensures excellent growth and luxurious flowering.

All cultivars of lilac propagate vegetatively: by shoots (root-bearing specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have vaccination skills, and it is difficult to make layering for you, then the most suitable way for you is propagation by green cuttings

Gardeners have the erroneous opinion that root-owning lilac blooms worse. However, it is not inferior to grafted inflorescences in size and beauty of inflorescences, in addition, it is more durable. There are plantings that, with proper care, do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years. Lilac belongs to hard-to-root plants, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings! Semi-lignified cuttings do not root.

1. The most suitable time is the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when young overgrowing branches complete their growth.

2. Cut the cuttings preferably in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using sprigs of medium thickness (in the worst case, thin) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best that it had 2-3 nodes and fairly short internodes.

3. Not suitable for harvesting cuttings of lilac shoots coming from thick branches - spinning tops, or fat shoots. In lilac, spinning tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings.

1. First, completely remove the leaves from the bottom node.

2. Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which the leaves are removed. To do this, use a well-sharpened grafting knife or a special pruner to minimize tissue damage at the cut site. Cuttings cut precisely in the internodes, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not root.

3. Shorten the remaining leaf blades by half

4. Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top node.

5. Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in a solution of the stimulator "Epin-extra" or "Zircon" for 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting cuttings of lilac in a greenhouse.

It is best to plant cuttings in a greenhouse or cuttings located in partial shade. In an extreme case, you can do without a greenhouse, covering the cuttings with cut-off five-liter plastic bottles from under drinking water.

1. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix peat with sand in a 1: 1 ratio. It’s good if you replace some of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from decaying.

2. Fill the cuttings with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. Top with a layer of sand (preferably river) with a thickness of 5 cm. Pour the prepared place well with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from damage by fungal diseases.

3. Lilac cuttings root hard, therefore, the use of root stimulants is necessary. Dip the stalk with the wet end into the Kornevin stimulator.

4. Make a small indentation in the moist sand and place the stalk there, completely deepening the lower knot. Try so that the powder stimulator of root formation from it does not crumble. Seal up. The lower end of the handle should be completely in the sand and not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves slightly touch each other.

Spray water from the spray nozzle. In water, you can add the Epina-Extra or Zircon solution remaining from the soaking of the cuttings.

Cover the cuttings with two layers of polyethylene, placing between them a layer of rare or translucent fabric. You can use other shading methods, for example, put a plastic mesh box under the fruit on polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow.

Make sure that the sand in the cuticle does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they successfully root at 100% air humidity. Spray a light pink potassium permanganate solution once a week to prevent mold on the leaves.

Cuttings of lilac root for a very long time, depending on the variety, the roots appear on the 40-60th day after planting. With the formation of roots, the cuticle needs to be aired in the evening, and then completely open.

Care for rooted cuttings.

If rooting is late, it is best to leave the cuttings for the winter in the cuticle. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, in early autumn they can be planted in the school - on a special bed for growing.

In the year of rooting, the plant does not shoot, but builds up the root system. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not scary. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

To grow young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if you need to lower the acidity, 300-400 g of wood ash or 200 g of dolomite flour per 1 square meter and dig it onto the bayonet of a shovel. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young roots of lilac are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compaction of the soil, just water it so that the ground settles a little.

For the first winter, cover the seedlings with fir spruce branches or provide any other dry shelter. In the spring, with the onset of warm weather, remove the shelter. With good care (weeding, loosening, regular top dressing), after two years, lilacs can be planted in a permanent place. Lilac blooms after cuttings on the 4th-5th year, but after 1-2 years of growing you can plant it in a permanent place.

Fresh aroma under the windows on a warm May night is the best evidence of a victorious spring and the coming of summer. Lilac flowers have many shades, aromas and varieties. We will tell you about what to do to make the most popular varieties grow next.

Cuttings

Like any beauty, lilacs are quite moody, so any method of reproduction requires a lot of effort and has both advantages and disadvantages.

Cuttings are the most difficult method of propagating lilacs, since a number of conditions must be adhered to in terms of time, temperature and humidity. However, it is most effective, it is most often used for mass cultivation of lilacs.

Now any beginner can learn to propagate lilac cuttings by cuttings, since there are a lot of educational materials, including video materials, in the public domain.

The timing

Timely harvesting of cuttings, this is one of the main features of this type of breeding. Propagation by green cuttings is carried out in spring, during the flowering period or the following week, until young green branches complete their growth, since the cuttings that have started to become rooted will no longer take root.

Billet

Harvesting cuttings is recommended early in the morning. They are taken on young bushes mainly from their middle, choosing growing on the middle part of the shoots. Twigs need medium thickness, preferably with 2-3 nodes and small gaps between them.
Spinning tops and processes on thick branches are not suitable, since they do not root.

All leaves are cut off at the bottom node. Then, just below it, they make an oblique cut, trying not to injure the plant, for this they take a sharp, or sharp grafting knife.

If the cut passes through the internode, the stalk does not take root. At the cutting, the top is cut off, directly above the top node. The remaining leaves are cut in half.

After such cutting, the cuttings are put into water with dissolved, for example, indolyl butyric acid, an aqueous solution for 15-18 hours.

Did you know? Most varieties of lilacs bloom in spring, about three weeks, but the Jose or Boomerang variety, and a number of others, bloom several times during the year.

Rooting

Rooting is best done in, it is better to place it in a light shade or make shelter from the sun.

Cuttings are buried so as to cover the bottom node in the ground. Subsequent watering is carried out depending on the tightness of the greenhouse from twice a day to once a week, the main thing is to ensure that the soil does not dry out.

To combat mold, cuttings, not more than once a week, are treated with a weak solution.

Rooting lasts a long time, from 40 days to a couple of months. Not in recent weeks, the cuttings need to be aired, and then completely opened.

Important! Different varieties of lilacs root differently. The rooting of the varieties Nadezhda, Buffon, Dream passes without problems, the results of the varieties Hortense, Krasnaya Moskva, Zhanna D’Ark are worse, and the varieties Khavemeir, Ludwig Shpet, Katerina practically do not cuttings.

Landing

After rooting, the petioles can be transplanted. If it is already autumn, then it is better not to touch them, and transplant in the spring. When the rooting took place before the end of summer, then from the beginning of autumn they can be transplanted to the "school" for growing.

By the end of the growth of the roots, the leaves on the cuttings can darken, this is normal, the main thing is that the buds are alive, then the seedling will take root.
The place for growing is determined in the sun, closed from the wind. The earth is picked up light, neutral or. It is fertilized or humus and digged on a bayonet shovel.

Fresh roots of cuttings are very delicate and fragile, therefore, they are transplanted carefully, not tamped, but only so that the earth is slightly densified. They are planted 30 cm from one another.

For the winter, the cuttings are covered with coniferous spruce branches, hay or other, dry cover. They grow lilacs for two years, after which it can be planted in a permanent place.

The final planting of lilacs is best done in late summer - early fall. When planting, the plant needs to be well watered. The landing site, if you do not take into account the design factor, you need to choose a sunny, warm, well-drained, neutral fertile, preferably flat.

Vaccination of lilac

Vaccination is the most effective way of propagating varietal lilacs. You can plant it not only on the wild, but also on any varietal lilac. A seedling for rootstock can be grown from seeds, but you will need a couple of years to do this, you can plant it on reaching a centimeter thickness.

There are many ways to vaccinate plants; for lilacs, copulation, ordinary grafting with a cuttings over the bark, grafting in a split, budding with a sleeping kidney (summer) and budding in the butt are best suited.

The timing

If you can cut lilacs only in spring, when flowering is in progress, then you can plant most of the season. By time, vaccinations can be divided into spring, before the start of sap flow, and summer, when the tree fully eats juices.

Before sap flow, copulations and vaccinations are split. With the onset of sap flow, they make the usual vaccination with a cuttings, this usually happens during the flowering of lilacs. The period of ovulation of a sleeping kidney depends solely on the stage of maturation of the kidneys and occurs in the middle or end of summer, depending on the region.

Important! Regardless of the period and type of vaccination, you need to do this in dry sunny weather.

Harvesting cuttings for scion is done at the beginning of winter, but it is possible at the end of winter or the beginning of spring, before spring grafting.

Preparation of scion and stock

If the cuttings were cut at the beginning of winter, they are injured in sawdust under the snow or in a damp cloth, in a bag in the refrigerator.

For scion can be bought at special farms or from breeders. If the cuttings are harvested on their own, you need to adhere to a number of conditions.

Firstly, they are taken from well-known, proven bushes in order to know exactly which variety you are planting. The bush should be relatively young, aged three to ten years.

Well-ripened, annual sprouts are cut from the bush, they are cut from the sunny side of the bush, preferably from the southern side, from the outer part of the crown. It is best to take shoots at an average height of the plant, since the lower ones are usually still small, and the upper ones are already too thick to take root.
Optimal cuttings are 30-40 cm long and about 7 cm thick, with short internodes and well-marked, well-developed growth buds; they should be from 4 to 5.

For stock, you can use different ages. Only the method of grafting will differ, for example by copulation on thin shoots, and for the bark on shoots, it is thicker than one and a half cm. If an adult bush with a thick trunk is grafted, it is better to vaccinate on all skeletal branches.

Did you know? Lilac belongs to the family Olive, and lilac flowers are edible.

Budding process

Stuffing with a sleeping kidney is one of the main ways to vaccinate lilacs. Spend it in July or August. For rootstock take two-year-old seedlings or root shoots.

In anticipation of budding, in a couple of weeks, vegetation is cleared around the rootstock, and the lower side shoots and shoots coming from the roots are cut off at the very root. Before grafting, the rootstock trunk is thoroughly cleaned with a damp cloth.
A sleeping kidney (scutellum with an eye) is cut from the handle, for this, taking the handle with the lower part to your left hand, place the knife a couple of centimeters above the kidney and cut it slightly in, spend it a little deeper than the kidney, ending the cut below it.

On the rootstock trunk, 3-5 cm from the ground, a T-shaped incision is made on the cortex, the bark is carefully separated on both sides of the vertical incision. The shield is placed in a T-shaped incision, removing the protruding part with a knife.

Then they wrap the vaccination site, leaving the kidney with the stalk open. After fusion of the shield with the trunk, the winding is removed. In early spring, part of the stock above the established kidney is cut.

Plant care

Typically, the scion takes root in a couple of weeks, but they begin to grow much later, depending on the timing of vaccination this, and even next summer. Therefore, while the stalk is not dry, and the buds on it are green, the vaccination is considered successful.

The garter of the scion is removed to prevent it from growing into, and in the event that there is confidence that it will not be broken off by the wind. To guarantee engraftment, it is necessary to remove sprouts below the grafting site.

Lilac from root shoots

Probably the easiest way to propagate lilacs is to propagate by the root shoot. This is done by canopy, when the movement of juices at the lilac stops and the root system is not so sensitive.

It is advisable to choose a cloudy day. The bush, from which the shoot is taken, should be well-strengthened, already flowering. After preliminary watering it, a young seedling is separated. Since young roots are very fragile, this should be done carefully so as not to tear them.

The resulting seedling, with roots already formed, is transplanted. The only drawback of this reproduction is that the new plant will not bloom for about three years.

Seed propagation

Lilacs are propagated by seeds when they want to grow stock for the subsequent instillation of valuable varieties of lilacs or if they want to get a new variety.

The fact is that during flowering cross-pollination occurs and as a result the same lilac will not grow anymore, the flowers will be different.

Of the resulting seeds, part will be similar to the mother, part will degrade to "wilds" (the flowers will be smaller and less frequent) they can be used on the stock, and some may grow with superior mothers in terms of splendor, aroma and color. So get new varieties.

Seed harvesting

Seeds are collected in the fall, they are dried at home for several days, until the boxes open, the speed of opening is determined by the variety of lilacs, if necessary, the seeds are obtained manually.

Seeds are harvested a quarter more than necessary, then to sort out substandard seedlings. Harvested seeds are either sown for the winter or at home.

Preparation and sowing

Seeds can be sown before winter directly into the ground, do it in already frozen ground or before the first snow falls. On a clean, without, and other plants, the seeds are dripped a couple of centimeters.

In the spring, after the snow melts, this one is covered with a film, and when the sprouts rise and grow (4-5 leaves appear), they are dived and planted more freely.

If the seeds are stored for the winter, then they are mixed with wet sand, 3 parts of sand per part of the seeds, or put honey on wet wipes and placed in the refrigerator for several months. In the spring they are sown on prepared for the film, or pre-germinated at home in containers.

In spring, it is advisable to thermally decontaminate the soil on the beds from black rot and other fungi.

Seedling Care

During cultivation, seedlings are fed two or three times a season or with fertilizers. Seedlings strongly depend on the variety, but no later than three months.

When propagating from layering, we get viable seedlings in a year. In an unvaccinated plant, this is important, annual shoots bend to the ground, fasten in this position and sprinkle with earth. Watered during the season.

The grown bushes are separated and planted in the fourth year. The grafted lilacs are delivered in this way; above the place of grafting, the trunk is pulled by wire, tilted and covered with soil by two-thirds of the plant so that the dragged place is in the ground.

By the end of the season, new roots form above the hauling site, after which layering can be separated and planted.

When you decide how to plant lilacs, which method to choose, you need to consider what of its advantages and disadvantages is critical to you. Cutting lilacs with green cuttings, although it is difficult and time-consuming, but makes it possible to immediately get a lot of seedlings of the required variety. Write in the comments which questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!

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