Do I need to pinch the tops of the chrysanthemum. Rooting stem cuttings

In many chrysanthemums, buds begin to appear almost immediately after planting. They are cut off to enable a small and fragile bush to gain strength until the fall.

The main method of forming a bush is pinching, which must be carried out throughout June.

The formation of the bush will promote more abundant flowering.

Korean chrysanthemums are the simplest, they do not require special shaping. When planting plants in the ground, the soil must be well compacted, otherwise there will be strong growth of shoots and weak flowering. In the first days after planting, abundant watering is necessary.Be sure to pinch the shoot when it has 6-8 sheets.

The methods of forming hybrid small-flowered and large-flowered chrysanthemums are different.

The purpose of the formation of small-colored chrysanthemums is to get a well-developed crown with big amount shoots and inflorescences. To do this, in young plants, pinch the tip of the shoot above the 4-5th leaf. From the remaining buds, 2-4 shoots appear, which are also pinched over the 7-8th leaf. The result is a plant with beautiful crown, it gives 20-40 inflorescences and more.

You can get and standard form plants. To do this, the main shoot is grown to the required height, pinch the top and remove everything side shoots, leaving only 2-4 on top, the pinching of which is repeated 2-3 times until a well-developed crown is obtained.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched at a height of 10-15 cm, removing the apical bud, since the central shoot gives, as a rule, a poorly formed and small inflorescence. From the resulting shoots, 1-3 are left, from which all lateral shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one.

When forming bushes, it should be borne in mind that the interval between the last pinch and the beginning of flowering is approximately 30 days.

In addition to pinching, in large-flowered chrysanthemums, shoots that develop from the leaf axils are removed, that is, they are stepchild. Simultaneously with the shoots, the lateral buds are plucked out. They do this starting from mid-July every day, and in August and September every 3 days. Stepchildren should be removed when they can be easily plucked out with your fingers without touching the stem and leaves.

Pinching of buds is also a technique usually applied to large-flowered chrysanthemums. It consists in choosing the best inflorescence. But in order to decide which of the buds to bet on, you need to know how their development is going.

The first bud, zero or spring, appears in May - early June. But its development is suppressed by the second-order shoot following it, on which the bud, called the first crown, develops. However, it may not develop due to the growth of a third-order shoot, at the end of which a bud also develops - already the second crown, and then the third crown appears.

Over the years, it has been established that flowers best quality are formed from the first or second crown bud. Therefore, one of them is left, and the other is removed. They also get rid of the spring and third crown buds.

In medium and small-flowered varieties, you can also pinch the buds. On these chrysanthemums, the best inflorescences form the second crown buds after double pinching. The size of the flowers can be further increased if 3-5 flowering shoots are left on the bush and one inflorescence on each.

Many varieties of chrysanthemums are over 1 meter high. Such bushes after windy weather can fall apart and have a sloppy appearance, and therefore need additional support. You can use wooden, metal rods for individual shoots, as well as whole circular supports for the bush.

Korean chrysanthemum is a generalized name for a group of perennial small-flowered varieties garden chrysanthemum... Its origin is hybrid. It is named "Korean" because the first specimens (and it was Siberian chrysanthemum), used for crossing, were brought from Korea. Differs in relative frost resistance. Grown in the open field everywhere. There are a lot of varieties of this chrysanthemum. They differ in terms of flowering time, height of bushes, structure and size of inflorescences, color of flowers. They are inherent fast growth.

Korean chrysanthemum is a short day plant. Bookmarking and formation of inflorescences occurs with a decrease in daylight hours. It is drought-resistant and photophilous. Close occurrence groundwater can lead to the death of the plant. For abundant flowering she needs five or more hours of sun daily.

If Korean chrysanthemum is planted in spring, then it is advisable to prepare the soil in the fall, add organic fertilizers, dig it up. Otherwise, when planting in each 20-centimeter hole, you must put humus or compost, filling it by a third, and then plant a rooted cutting (this is the best planting material). This procedure is carried out at the end of the frost.

For better lighting of chrysanthemums, it is advisable to plant in a checkerboard pattern, leaving 40 cm between the plants. If the cuttings were in pots, then they need to be transplanted with an earthen clod, without deepening, and watered.

At first, it is advisable to loosen the soil often, since at this time the root system and underground shoots are growing, from which the bush will form. In the future, loosening must be stopped so that young shoots are not damaged.

The Korean chrysanthemum loves mulching, which protects against fungal diseases. Pine needles, oat straw, chopped pine bark are excellent for this purpose.

It is difficult to grow chic bushes without top dressing. At the beginning of growing, young plants need to be fed nitrogen fertilizers to build up green mass, and then - phosphorus-potassium, for better flowering.

The formation of Korean chrysanthemum consists in removing the buds that appear at the wrong time (in spring and early summer) and in shortening the shoots that violate the shape of the bush. To achieve good branching, it is necessary to carry out 1-2 pinching (removal of the tops of the shoots) with an interval of 30 days. If after the first pinching, which is carried out when 10 leaves grow back, 7-12 shoots are formed, then the second pinching is no longer required. Otherwise, the tops of the grown lateral shoots are pinched over the 3-5th leaf.

Korean chrysanthemums bloom around September. Some varieties earlier, others later. Flowering lasts until frost, after which you need to cut off the entire aerial part, leave a small stump. When frosty weather is established, it is necessary to insulate the root system of chrysanthemums. In the southern regions, it is enough to simply cover with earth. In colder regions, you still need to cover it with spruce branches, cover it with foliage.

In the spring, you need to remove the remnants of the stems, unscrew the central shoot completely, since it will no longer grow. The renewal of the bush will occur from underground side shoots. Korean chrysanthemum in one place can grow well for no more than three years. In the 3-4th year, the bush must be dug up and divided, throwing out the central part.

With a cold snap flowering bush can be dug up and transplanted into a large pot or bucket. The chrysanthemum at home will bloom for a long time, perhaps before the New Year. After flowering, the stems need to be pruned and the pot should be placed in cool place... In the spring, you can cut and root cuttings, and later plant them in flower beds.

The autumn garden, in which the colors fade, evokes melancholy. Chrysanthemums are able to fill it with new tones. Plant these wonderful plants, they will delight with bright flowers and green foliage until frost

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Pinching and pinching a chrysanthemum : In order to grow larger, well-developed flowers and inflorescences, it is necessary to pinch (prune) and pinch. Let's consider these operations separately.

Pinching (trimming): You have planted a rooted stalk of a large-flowered chrysanthemum. Sunny weather and proper care (watering and feeding) for the plant will give its results - the chrysanthemum will begin to grow rapidly upward. As soon as the plant reaches 20-25 cm in length (7-10 leaves), it is necessary to prune or pinch - remove the upper part of the stem. The difference between pinching and trimming is only in the size of the tip separating. When pinching, only the very tip of the shoot is removed, and when pruning, the detachable part of the shoot used for rooting is at least 7-10 cm.

When pruning, cut off the upper part of the plant by 7-10 cm. (3-4 leaves) if the plant has reached a height of 20 cm. If you need to pinch, then simply remove the top of the chrysanthemum growth. As a rule, pinch once:

1) plants of early varieties;

2) undersized varieties of chrysanthemums.

We also recommend pinching large-flowered once. If you do not pinch this group, then the primary bud will give a defective flower. Pinching (pruning) helps to delay plant growth, better root development, the formation of side shoots and the removal of spring buds. Plucked chrysanthemum cuttings can be rooted, and later planted in the garden.

Stepping out.

After pinching the plant, the lateral shoots begin to grow rapidly. Therefore, in order to properly form a bush, it is also necessary to pinch - the removal of lateral shoots and buds, the so-called. stepson. They consume nutrients and greatly retard the development of the main stem and bud. Usually stepchildren are removed as soon as they grow to such a size that they can be grasped with fingers.At the same time, keep in mind that two or three stepsons must be left in the upper part in case the main bud is damaged by pests and therefore underdeveloped. Large-flowered chrysanthemums are periodically shooted, removing unwanted shoots, and thus only one full-fledged flower is formed on each trunk.

Chrysanthemums are beautiful plants, which are represented by a wide variety of inflorescences. This plant lends itself very well to shaping, which is very often used by gardeners to obtain an aesthetically pleasing plant. Success in growing this plant can be achieved with the ability to correctly form a bush and choose the most suitable bud from which it will appear magnificent inflorescence... It is also necessary to choose the right time for pinching and remove lateral shoots in time.

Highly an important milestone when forming a plant is the removal of the upper part of the stem and pinching. This activity allows you to retard the growth of the plant, due to which root system strengthens, and new lateral shoots are formed. The number and timing of pinching directly affect the height of the plant. Depending on the variety of the plant and the timing of its reproduction, a different number of pinching is carried out. If the plant is of early varieties, then pinch it 1 to 3 times. If grafting was carried out at a later time, then such plants are grown with one pinching or without it at all.

Pinching provides fast growth for the plant and its lateral shoots, so the first pinching is carried out over 5 or 7 leaves. After ten days, such a cutting can be planted in the soil. The second pinching is carried out 15 days after the first, and later should be carried out 2.5 months before the flowering of the plant.

Features of different varieties of chrysanthemums

It is worth paying attention to the features of growth different varieties chrysanthemums. It must be remembered here that early varieties chrysanthemums are pinched once and occasionally twice. Later cuttings are grown without pinching at all. Chrysanthemums of late and medium varieties are pinched up to 3 times and always take into account the timing of cuttings. In order to get large flowers on the stem large varieties chrysanthemums only need one flower.

Chrysanthemum seedlings, which were obtained by cuttings, require special care... She will need watering and feeding. But, nevertheless, for a plant during this period it is very important correct formation plants. Have different types and plant varieties are formed in completely different ways. TO perennial plants include hybrid chrysanthemums, Korean, which can perfectly winter in our conditions.

Korean chrysanthemums are the simplest and do not require special shaping. Seedlings of such a plant should be planted around the 20th of May. After planting, the plants must be carefully compacted in the soil to avoid abundant growth of shoots. In the first days after planting a flower, it must be watered abundantly.

Hybrid chrysanthemums can be divided into large and small flowering. In varieties with small flowers, by pinching, they try to get a well-developed crown with a significant number of inflorescences and shoots. To pinch young plants, the process is carried out on 4 or 5 leaves. From the buds that remain, over time, 2 to 4 shoots are obtained, which also need to be pinched on 7 or 8 leaves. As a result, we are able to get a plant with a well-developed crown.

As for the large-flowered chrysanthemums, they are pinched 10-15 cm, while removing the upper bud, because the central shoot gives a poorly formed bud. This variety of chrysanthemums must be planted in pots and tied up with pegs, and at the end of May, the flower along with the pot is buried in open ground... Knowing how to plant chrysanthemums, you can get beautiful plants with a large number of inflorescences and a well-formed crown.

Luxurious inflorescences in autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from its congeners in the open field in the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to the lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding to care, grow well, bloom profusely and multiply easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Compositae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in the pot, care at home will then be much easier. Good developed plant, intended to be kept indoors, will continue to bloom on the windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after independent propagation by cuttings or root suckers, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in the store.

Street chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and house entrance. After flowering, the stems are cut, the containers with the roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If street chrysanthemum keep indoors, her leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need Fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Potted Chrysanthemum Varieties

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. The inflorescences can be smaller or the same size as the open field plants. Varieties are often grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum indian

In nature, it is relatively low herbaceous plant... The leaves are jagged, green-gray in color. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on windowsills and balconies.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species with white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms with a height of 20–25 cm. Today there are a large number of various forms and varieties that feel good in the room and are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive to cold period time.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

• "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with many large yellow inflorescences.
• "Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
• "Morifolium" is a variety with large, simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. Leaves are deep green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. On the upper side of the leaf blade, pinpoint glands are noticeable. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums are simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Buy a plant in flower shop or accepted as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light is suitable that is provided by placing the pot on a plastic or wooden windows facing west and east. The rays hit at noon can cause leaf burns; in this situation, it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with 6-8 hours of daylight in October or November (depending on the region).

A comfortable temperature for a room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, which is more demanding in terms of keeping conditions, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in the summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Indoor chrysanthemum prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnant water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

1. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out.
2. In autumn and winter, watered once a week in the morning.
3. Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
4. In the heat, water is sprayed nearby indoor plants to lower the air temperature.
5. Used for watering and spraying the settled water. If it is tough, then white bloom accumulates on the soil surface.
6. Avoid getting drops on flowers.

Profusely blooming chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Liquid dressing is carried out once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. The potted plant is fed about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future you do not regulate the growth of shoots, then several long stems appear, which reduces decorativeness.

• Pinching of rapidly growing shoots is performed. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will need 2 or 3 treatments.
• Large-flowered hybrids can be shaped like a tree by shortening the main shoot and cutting off the lower branches.
• Pinching buds that begin to wither helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed if flowering is delayed. Selective pinching of the tops of the peduncles will ensure flow nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants require a renewal of the substrate. They are transferred into a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1: 1: 1). You can use ready-made potting soil.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as a loose structure, lightness, moisture content and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplanting, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants - with a plastic bag. Provide diffused lighting at first, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend pruning the stems, leaving short areas above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed to a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in as it was on the windowsill in the room. The third option: to stimulate shoot growth and formation compact bush pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will sprout and bloom.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root suckers (babies). Young plants can be grown from these additional shoots. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the plant deepening at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

1. Young shoots are cut from an adult plant.
2. Fill transparent Plastic container from cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
3. Cuttings are planted, covered with a lid from the container.
4. After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seeds. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually at seed reproduction chrysanthemums varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to a lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of spots of a grayish-yellow or brown color with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is associated with poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the lack of buds and flowers are lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens when there is an excess of fertilizing and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. For these fungal infections, they are treated with fungicides for indoor plants. Chrysanthemum is damaged by aphids, black midges sciarids, soil mites, springtails. The leaves are treated with a solution of the drug Aktellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, the flowers are taken out onto the balcony. Window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, they change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended to carefully consider the choice of substrate. Typically, pathogens and plant pests are found in the land brought from the garden and vegetable garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, they will delight with flowering for a long time.

Rooted cuttings are carefully removed so as not to damage the delicate, fragile roots. Then they should be planted in boxes, on racks, in greenhouses or pots (9 cm in diameter). The room where the rooted cuttings are planted should be light, well-ventilated, with a temperature of 14-16 C. When the temperature rises with strong solar heating, ventilation can be used to bring it to normal.
The cuttings are planted shallowly so that the base of the stem - the place of root formation - is at least 1 cm from the surface of the earth. After a few days, the ground will settle and the root formation will be almost at ground level. The distance between cuttings in February - March is 10 x 10, and in April - June 8 x 8 and 6 x 6.

Irrigation and loosening of the top layer of the earth should be systematically carried out. As the roots of an earthen coma are braided, young plants are transplanted from pots with a diameter of 9 cm to pots with a diameter of 11 cm.Where the rooted cuttings are on racks, in greenhouses or boxes, thinning is periodically carried out so that the leaves of neighboring plants do not lean against.

25 - 30 days before planting in the ground, all plants are transferred to greenhouses filled with peat, earth or humus. The pots are dug in at ground level at a distance of 5 - 6 cm. During the day, the frames are opened first for a few hours, and then for the whole day. The frames are removed 10 to 15 days before landing in open ground.

Pinching and pruning are techniques in which the top of the shoot of a rooted cutting is removed. This is done to retard growth, better development roots, the formation of lateral shoots and the removal of spring buds. The difference between pinching and trimming is the size of the tip that is trimmed.

The pinch is used when the tip is not in use. When pruning, the apex is rooted. Cuttings from the tops can be shorter than usual, but not less than 4 - 5 cm.

Small-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums only pinch. In large-flowered, if new cuttings are needed, pruning is carried out, if cuttings are not needed, then pinching. The top of the stem is removed with a sharp knife, or with your hands (nails of a large and forefinger). This is done 10 to 15 days after planting the rooted cuttings in pots with a diameter of 9 cm, racks and hotbeds, when young plants start to grow. The stem currently has a length of 12-15 cm and has six to eight leaves; after pinching or pruning, at least three to four leaves remain on the stem.

Young plants obtained from the tops of rooted cuttings are not tall, bloom 8 to 12 days later than usual and have large inflorescences. Plants obtained from lateral shoots during the second and third pruning of mother plants behave similarly.

After the first pinching or pruning, the plants are watered with a weak solution of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Three to four lateral shoots grow from the axils of the leaves left after 10 - 15 days. Large-flowered varieties leave one side shoot ( better than the second top), the rest are cut, and, if necessary, used for cuttings. In all large-flowered and small-flowered varieties, side shoots are not removed.

The number of pinches depends on the breeding time and variety. Large-flowered varieties propagated in March are pruned in April or early May, pinched at the end of May, and those rooted in April are pinched in May. Some varieties, bred late, pinch only after the appearance of spring buds, removing them. This is explained by the fact that such young plants, with the appearance of spring buds, end their growth while they themselves have not yet grown enough; if the pinching is done before the spring buds appear, then such plants weaken (growth and the appearance of new leaves are delayed).

In some varieties, the first pinching is carried out in April, or at the beginning of May. In varieties intended for cutting, they are limited to one pinch, while three to four stems are formed. To obtain five to eight shoots, a repeated pinching is carried out: each lateral shoot, which has reached 10-12 cm, must be pinched. To get simultaneous flowering on the plant, it is better to pinch all lateral shoots at the same time. If on the plant some lateral shoots have not reached the desired length, the pinching can be delayed by 8 - 10, but not more than 12 days. Sometimes, to obtain low bushy plants (especially in small-flowered varieties), a third pinch is done. Such varieties are propagated in the second half of February, or early March.

The last pinch of large-flowered chrysanthemums ends in early June for early-flowering varieties, in mid-June for medium-flowering varieties, in early July for late-flowering varieties. Small-flowered varieties are re-pinched at the end of May, in the middle, or at the end of June, depending on the variety. If they are propagated in April, then they pinch once - in May, or at the beginning of June.

Between the date of the last pinching and the beginning of budding, there should be a growth period of 30 - 40, but not less than 25 days, depending on the variety.

Pinching or trimming are a separate and complex technique, disrupts the normal rhythm of development young plant... Therefore, they should not coincide with any other technique, from which there is a delay in growth, for example, transplanting, or transshipment.