How to prune tree branches. Pruning fruit trees in autumn
It is naive to believe that by planting a seedling of a fruit tree (even if all agricultural practices are observed), you can wait idly for it to begin to bear fruit. Without proper pruning, apple and pear trees will soon turn into thickened trees, overloaded with tops and competing branches that prevent the seedling from developing, and therefore actively bearing fruit.
In the first three years after planting, the formation of crowns should be an important concern for the gardener. fruit trees. Along with pruning, this is one of the most important jobs in gardening. The fate of the crop and the further condition of the tree itself largely depend on it.
When pruning and shaping the crown of apple and pear trees, breed, varietal and individual characteristics plants and also natural conditions district.
How to properly prune apple and pear trees, depending on the age of the trees, is described in detail in this article.
Pruning apple and pear trees: the correct formation of fruit trees
The first thing that novice gardeners need to consider when pruning apple and pear trees is that the strength of the crown of a fruit tree is achieved primarily by the correct ratio in the strength of the development of the central conductor and the main skeletal branches (branches of the first order). The conductor should be significantly ahead of the skeletal branches in terms of development.
As branches of the second order, lateral branches growing in a horizontal direction are most suitable. When pruning apple and pear trees, those branches that are directed towards the conductor or upwards are cut into a ring, because they thicken the crown. Shoots developed from external buds (with outside branches) are also unsuitable as skeletal branches of the second order, because they easily sag under the weight of the crop and often break off.
For the formation of the crown of apple and pear trees, it is necessary to correctly leave branches with angles of departure and divergence. The divergence angle is the angle between the skeletal branch and the central conductor, and the divergence angle is the angle between two adjacent skeletal branches in the crown in horizontal section.
To prune apples and pears correctly, remember that branches with a small angle of departure do not give a strong connection with the trunk and easily break off under the weight of the crop. Branches with angles of departure from 40° to 90° at their base form a very strong connection with the leader due to the annular influx at the point of departure of the skeletal branch from the central conductor.
It has been established that the strength of the fusion is achieved if the thickness of the branch of the first tier does not exceed half the diameter of the trunk and the angle of departure is not less than 45°. Therefore, when forming the crown of most varieties, branches with an angle of departure less than 40 ° are not left as skeletal branches. The best departure angles are between 45° and 65°.
The angle of departure in the crown of the skeletal branch can be changed not only by pruning: in pears and apple trees, it is advisable to bend the overgrowing branches on the main skeletal branches and the central conductor between tiers in a leafy state in late June - early July, when growth in thickness continues with subsequent lignification. This will make it easier to fix them at a given angle after preliminary bending and holding in this position for a while. Branches from acute angle the discharges are pulled to the ground, and with an angle of 90 °, on the contrary, they are pulled up, tied to the central conductor.
At the same time, there is an opinion that the method of pulling in order to give the branch a more inclined position is ambiguous, because in this case only the angle of inclination of the entire branch will change, but not the angle of departure from the trunk. However, when the upper side branch is rejected and the leader is cut down above it, the angle of departure from 70-80 ° changes to 0 °, and after a few years it can be very difficult to find a place to remove the old top of the trunk. Thick branches are difficult to bend. It is recommended to pre-file them slightly from below before bending.
Various schemes for pruning branches of apple and pear trees (with photo)
In order for the crown to always be translucent, it is necessary to strictly maintain the number of skeletal branches in accordance with the selected type of crown. The branches of the second tier should be tried to be placed in the middle of the angle of divergence of the branches of the first tier. The sparsely tiered crown is the most widespread.
Such a crown combines tiered and single placement of skeletal branches. The height of the trunk is standard -60-80 cm.
For the strength of the crown, it is important that, with proper pruning of apple and pear trees, over each tier of single branches there should be no less than the number of branches in the tier. The distance between adjacent tiers or between a tier and a single branch should be 40-70 cm. With a strong growth of the tree, one single branch or a tier of two branches is laid annually. They are evenly placed in space to avoid shading the lower branches with the upper ones, and so that the crown does not turn out to be one-sided. The uppermost skeletal branch must be single. Above it, the conductor of the trunk is cut out if he himself does not deviate to the side by this time. This is done in order to limit the growth of the tree in height.
Some gardeners offer the following scheme for forming the crown of a pear tree. The entire crown should consist of 4-5 branches of the first order, and the height of the trunk should be left in the range of 50-70 cm. The lower tier, as a rule, consists of two adjacent opposite branches. The distance between the lower tier and the third skeletal branch is about 60 cm. The rest (fourth and fifth) are placed along the trunk at intervals of 25-30 cm.
Thus, the upper branch is laid at a height of 1.8-2.2 m. After creating five skeletal branches of the first order in the crown, the formation of skeletal branches of the second order is allowed on the lower tier, but not more than two. They are placed no closer than 50-60 cm from the trunk and 30-40 cm from each other. They should occupy a lateral position along the axis of the pine branch. On all skeletal branches (both the first and second orders of branching), semi-skeletal branches 1-2 m long are formed, depending on the location in the crown and orientation.
See how pear and apple pruning is done in this video for beginner gardeners:
In some cases (for example, when a fruit tree has grown near a building), one of the sides has to be cut out, and a crown is obtained when the branches are directed only to three cardinal points.
Some gardeners are interested in pruning apple trees, the crowns of which are formed in a flat shape (palmette). Each tier for an oblique palmette is formed from two skeletal branches on opposite sides of the trunk. For the strength of the crown, the branches are removed at a distance of 5-10 cm from one another, and not from adjacent buds. A free palmette differs from an oblique one in that it is formed without the use of stakes and garters of branches, but exclusively with the help of one pruning.
You can also form a vase-shaped crown. How to prune an apple tree in this case? This crown does not have a leader (central conductor). It is cut out after laying the lower tier from 3-4 skeletal branches, which take over all the functions of the trunk. The vase-shaped crown can be displayed on a stem 20-40 cm high. . A big advantage of vase-shaped crowns is the increased winter hardiness of the tree. The disadvantage of such a scheme for the formation of the crown of a pear or apple tree is the smaller mechanical strength compared to the leader. However, it is easily removed by internal fastening boughs-trunks with each other or with a ring in the center of the crown.
When pruning and forming the crown of an apple or pear tree, sufficient subordination of the skeletal branches to the leader, large angles of departure of these branches from it, as well as large angles of divergence between the branches in the tier are the main conditions for the strength of the fastening of the crown parts.
In these photos, pruning apple and pear trees are presented various schemes crown formation:
Photo gallery
Crown formation when pruning young apple and pear trees: video instruction for beginners
Since during their development fruit trees change the nature and ratio of growth and fruiting processes, approaches to pruning branches of apple and pear trees are different stages their lives should be different.
There are two main methods of pruning: shortening, in which part of the branch is removed, and thinning, when the entire branch is removed. Shortening is carried out in cases where it is necessary to weaken any branch so that it does not develop into a strong skeletal, but turns into a semi-skeletal or overgrowing. If one-year growths are shortened, pruning is called regulating, and if perennial branches are rejuvenating. When less than 1/3 of the annual shoot is pruned, the shortening is considered weak, when up to half of it is removed, it is medium, and more than half is strong.
Beginners should pay special attention to pruning young apple and pear trees, because the period of the first three to five years is the most responsible in crown formation.
In young trees, only strong annual shoots are shortened, reaching a length of 45 cm or more, the continuation shoots on semi-skeletal branches are not touched.
Young apple and pear trees that have not yet begun to bear fruit, and non-flowering mature trees can be cut not only in March and April, but also in May and June, after bud break.
When pruning pear and apple trees, shortening the end parts of branches causes increased growth of shoots from lateral buds, which leads to thickening of the crown. To prevent this from happening, during the growing season, part of the growing shoots should be broken out or cut out without waiting for their strong growth. More fast growth the shoot comes from a kidney located directly near the cut site. The more the branch is cut, the more buds will awaken on the remaining part, and the more growth they will give. Therefore, a strong shortening when pruning a young apple or pear tree should be done only as a last resort.
Due to the fact that the buds on the branches are arranged in a spiral, they are cut to the one that “looks” into a more advantageous space for future escape. Shorten the branch above the selected kidney so that the cut line is just above it. If the cut is made lower, then the bud may dry out, but if a longer part is left, then after the shoot grows from the bud, the remaining part of the branch above the bud dries up, and diseases and pests can develop on it. In which direction the bud is directed, over which the branch was cut, in that direction the shoot will grow.
If the branches of the tree are drooping, although this rarely happens, then when forming the crown of pears and apple trees, the growth is shortened by the inner bud (or branch), and if the crown is raised, narrow (compressed) - by the outer bud (or branch). In other words: a branch with an angle of departure of 80-90° is shortened above the bud, directed upwards and inside the crown, and a branch with an angle of departure of less than 40° above the bud, directed outward of the crown.
When forming the crown of a young apple or pear tree, by thinning, all extra branches are removed to the base (thickening, crossing, extending from the trunk at an acute angle, growing inside the crown), cutting them into a ring, that is, under the edge of the annular influx. Cutting even a large number of branches does not increase the branching and growth of shoots, but, on the contrary, contributes to the laying of short fruit formations on the remaining branches. If there is a competitor, it is also cut into a ring. It happens that a competitor is located more successfully - in such cases they leave it, removing the conductor.
Often, not the entire branch is cut, but only part of it on the side branch. This technique, when pruning the crown of a pear or apple tree, is used to turn a strong skeletal branch into weaker semi-skeletal or overgrowing ones, as well as to expand the crown of trees with a pyramidal or broom-like structure. Many varieties have such crowns for pears, and for apple trees these are anises, Arkad Tenkovsky, Moscow Grushovka, Papirovka's Daughter, Zhigulevskoye, Kazanskoye, Cinnamon Striped, Medunitsa, Papirovka, Northern Sinap, Spartan, Terentyevka, Welsey.
Strong unnecessary ramifications middle length With wide angles discharges, not to mention small branches on the trunk, do not thin out or shorten. They gradually become semi-skeletal and overgrown with branches. They host the crop in the first years of fruiting.
When pruning, it is important to consider the type of fruiting, bud awakening and shoot-forming ability (branching ability). In trees with a sparse crown, weakly forming new shoots, shortening of the shoots is mainly used, and in plants with a dense crown, thinning is used. Most often, you have to apply both shortening and thinning.
In apple and pear trees, conductors of semi-skeletal branches, in contrast to skeletal branches, are almost annually shortened by about 1/2 of the growth. Horizontal shoots are not shortened if they have enough space. Branch pruning is mainly used to reduce the height of a tree.
In trees of such varieties as Anis striped, Antonovka ordinary, Iyulskoe Chernenko, Papirovka, Northern synapse, which have undergone thirty-five-degree frosts, autumn wounds heal as well as when pruning in spring. Only during autumn and winter pruning, the cuts should be of high quality, without bark burrs and cracks in the wood.
Here you can find a video instruction for pruning young apple and pear trees for beginner gardeners:
Tips on how to properly prune adult apple and pear trees
Mature, well-growing and abundantly fruiting trees can be pruned after the opening of the buds, but not later than the beginning of flowering. Infertile young trees in the summer can only be thinned out, since shortening the branches during this period greatly depresses them.
At the end of May - the first half of June, all spare nutrients concentrated at the end points of growth. If at this time the tops of the shoots are shortened, that is, chasing, then instead of long shoots, which usually happens after early spring or winter pruning, short, or even just ringlets and spears grow. Chasing promotes earlier and more abundant fruiting of well-formed young trees.
Thin branches and shoots (up to 2 cm) are cut with a garden knife or pruner. With a knife, cuts are made with one quick movement of the blade. When pruning pruning of adult apple trees is performed with a secateurs, the counter-cutting part of it is placed on top of the cut branch. In this case, the cut is even, the bark around it remains intact and there is no hemp left on the bearing branch. When a branch is cut with a small angle of departure, the pruner is brought to it from below, and not from the side.
When cutting branches, do not rotate the pruner around the axis of the branch being cut. From this, the bark on the branch will be torn off, and the wound will not heal well. Good advice on how to properly prune a pear or apple tree - when removing a branch or shoot with a pruner, it is necessary to leave a spike 1.5-2 cm long above the kidney. Large branches should be removed carefully. From the base of the branch intended for cutting, 30-35 cm recede and file from the bottom to about half of its thickness. Then, stepping back above the notch along the branch 10-15 cm, they saw it from above, and the branch breaks off along the line of both cuts. The rest of the branch, holding it with a hand from below, is cut down in the usual way into a ring.
Using a quality garden saw and pruner when pruning the formation of apple and pear trees, the cuts are so smooth that they do not require additional cleaning. Cuts made with bad or blunt saws and pruners must be cleaned with a sharp garden knife or chisel to a depth of 1-1.5 mm to a healthy tissue.
This video shows the pruning of apple and pear trees in adulthood:
Rejuvenating pruning of old apple and pear trees (with video)
Often, gardeners are asked to help prune very tall apple trees that are 50 years old or more. As a rule, it is difficult, it is easier to completely destroy an old tree, having previously grown a young one. But you can understand an elderly person who finds it hard to part with his beloved apple tree. The sapling was planted in youth, and uprooting a tree is tantamount to cutting out a piece of one's own life. So you have to pore over pruning for 2-3 years to bring the tree into a divine form.
About a year before the anti-aging pruning of old apple and pear trees, all dry, dead and extra branches are cut out. The essence of rejuvenation is the periodic shortening of old branches for perennial wood, but it must be carried out more than one year. Severe pruning can lead to the death of the tree.
Rejuvenation begins with thinning to ensure good illumination of the inside of the crown. At the same time, the hanging ends of all branches are cut off so that between the soil and bottom the crown was free from branches, a space 80-100 cm high.
Then the crown is reduced, cutting off its upper part and conductor by 1-2 m, and skeletal branches - into lateral branches directed to the periphery of the crown. If a large number of branches were removed during thinning and lowering the crown, rejuvenation is postponed until the next year. If few branches were removed, then it is carried out immediately. All cuts are made for translation to the side branch. Even if it is a weak branch of a fruiting type.
Light anti-aging pruning is used on an apple tree at the age of 18-20 years, and earlier on early-growing varieties. At the same time, the ends of all branches are cut off with an increase of the last 2-3 years. Annual increments are determined by the annular influx on the branches. The average anti-aging pruning is carried out on an apple tree at the age of about 25 years, if this crown has not been rejuvenated. Cut off all growths 4-7 recent years. The lower branches are cut into branches oriented upwards, and the upper branches are cut to the sides to reduce the diameter and raise the lower edge of the crown, as well as reduce the height of the tree. The rule of subordination is observed: the main branch must be longer and thicker than its branches.
The main techniques for anti-aging pruning of apple and pear trees are presented in this video:
Apple trees at the age of 30-40 years need strong pruning with the removal of growths of 10-12 years and older. The diameter of the crown with strong anti-aging pruning decreases by about 1.5 m, and the height by 1 m. It is carried out according to the same rules as the average anti-aging pruning.
After pruning, especially if it was associated with a sharp decrease in the crown, many tops will appear. They usually grow very strongly, growing up to 1.5-2 m per year. All season they pull "juice" from the tree. A next spring they are cut out. In order not to waste the food resources that the tree has, the growth of tops must be prevented.
With a hand or a hook on a stick, they simply break them out to the ground. They begin to work when the length of the tops is about 7-10 cm (up to 15-20 cm is possible if they did not have time). The break is fast. It is only necessary to sharply bend the shoot down or to the side, pressing it at the base. If such a top remains connected with a tree by a narrow strip of bark, it does not matter. Even good. It will not grow, but some of the synthesized substances can give to the tree.
Before you prune old apple and pear trees, watch this video:
A garden in a country house or in the courtyard of a private house is the dream of many people. It's nice to spend time on a bench among the trees with a book in your hands. But after all, people want to see not only nature, but also to have a good harvest in order to pick fruit. The garden needs maintenance. You need to know exactly how and when to prune fruit trees correctly, at what time of the year it is better to carry out these actions, because it is from proper care will depend on the quality of the crop.
What is pruning for?
Many amateur gardeners believe that it is easy to do without pruning fruit trees. In their opinion, the crown itself will grow, the fruits will appear earlier, there will be high yield. No, this assumption is wrong. correct pruning trees - the key to a long life of fruit trees. Also, with each season, the volume of the crop will increase.
If a person does not know how and when to prune fruit trees correctly, and will do everything at his own discretion, then soon the fruits will be crushed. With each season, there will be less and less fruit, and as a result, a year will come that will not bring a harvest at all.
Pruning fruit trees and shrubs is important. Every gardener must understand this and produce right action. Pruning is needed for young, old and aging trees. Thus, the wood is rejuvenated and bears fruit better. And many valuable varieties bred by breeders are especially in need of pruning. There are specialists who offer their professional services in the garden.
When is pruning done?
Gardeners often do not pay special attention for the period of rejuvenation of the garden plot. Let's figure out when spring pruning of fruit trees should be done.
The best time is the end of February or the beginning of March, when the danger of return passes severe frosts. Pruning begins with young seed orchards. First, these are pears and apple trees, black and red currants (if the thickness of the snow allows).
At the end of March or at the beginning of April, most of the crops are pruned. First, these are pome trees, then stone fruits. Young crops should be finished pruning before the start of sap flow, as at a later date the plants weaken with each lost branch.
In May-June, pruning is carried out during the flowering of trees and shrubs. Mature plants can be rejuvenated even after sap flow, so the regenerative growth processes are reduced.
Care in the warm season
IN summer period also carry out pruning of some crops. This procedure allows you to delay the flowering of the tree for the next year, which helps to minimize crop loss during early frosts (for example, this is true for apricots). They also break out and pinch out unnecessary shoots. IN summer season pruned ornamental plants. To resume flowering, inflorescences and flowers are removed.
How and when to prune in the fall? Is it possible to carry out such procedures in this season? Yes, for the restoration and rejuvenation of neglected apple trees, and red currants, raspberries and many others.
If gardeners know how to prune fruit trees in the spring, then the harvest of the garden will always delight the owner with healthy and juicy fruits. The plant will live for many years.
Existing species
Used to rejuvenate trees and shrubs different types trimmings, there are about five of them, a combination is also possible.
The first type is formative. Initially, it is required to give the desired shape and size of the crown. But you need to know how to properly prune fruit trees. All extra branches are cut off at the very trunk, large ones - by a third, thin ones - twice.
The second type is regulatory. Aimed at maintaining a balance between crown growth and fruiting. All vertical, skeletal branches and processes inside the tree are cut. Such actions will allow you to give the crown the shape of a pyramid.
The third type is rejuvenating. Such pruning is carried out for the maximum growth of all branches (old and young).
The fourth type is restorative. If the tree or its branches have been exposed to frost or mechanical damage, then perform a partial cut.
The fifth type is sanitary. This is the pruning of damaged, diseased, dry or broken branches. In practice, gardeners often combine all types of rejuvenation.
Proper care prolongs the life of plants
In order to understand how and when to prune fruit trees correctly, it is enough to study the literature and try to apply the knowledge gained. Often people turn to specialists for help. Pruning fruit trees is different from pruning ornamental shrubs, because pears, apricots, apple trees, currants, cherries are grown to produce delicious fruits and berries. When inexperienced gardeners do their own pruning, shoots often grow a little later. They need to be removed, perhaps several times. If you properly care for trees that have large roots, they can live up to thirty years. Vegetation with short roots bears fruit much earlier (three years after planting).
pruning apple trees
Each fruit tree needs separate care. The apple tree in our country is quite popular. It grows in almost every garden. Pruning apple trees depends on the general condition of the tree: age, structural features, crown. In a certain period of time, different actions are performed. At the time when the apple tree bears fruit, it is pruned according to the regulating form. During the aging period, rejuvenation is carried out. During the growth and development of the tree, formative pruning is carried out.
If the apple tree is quite old, then it needs special care. As a rule, on such trees there are many small fruits located at the very top. Apple trees are tall and have many dying branches. Pruning such a tree should be gradual, within 2-3 years. Start from the south side. For apple trees, a low and narrow crown is suitable.
Pruning stone fruit trees and berry bushes
Gardeners want to make the most of their land. For such a purpose, fruit trees and berry trees as much as possible. In pears, the crown itself looks like a pyramid, therefore it does not require constant adjustment. One problem: the tree quickly puts out vertical branches, some need to be removed, while the rest should be turned into fruit-bearing ones.
Stone plants form from two to four years of age. It is impossible to delay pruning for a long time, since cherries, plums and cherries are very difficult to bring into desired shape. Fruiting stone fruit trees do not tolerate the removal of large branches.
In spring, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries require rejuvenating pruning.
Shortening and thinning
There are two ways to prune fruit trees. The first is called shortening - partial shoots and branches are removed. This approach stimulates the growth of the kidneys. You can shorten strongly, by half a branch, medium - by one third, and weakly - a quarter of the shoot is removed. With the help of this method, the trees are rejuvenated. If the branches are large and old, then strong pruning is performed.
The second method is called thinning (cutting). In this case, branches and shoots are completely removed. The method is suitable for fruit which are too thick.
If you properly care for the garden, then fresh and juicy fruits will always be on your table!
Required event. Its goal is to improve health, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but quite the contrary - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. In fact, this is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the measures for the care of cultural garden trees and not letting them run wild.
Thanks to competent pruning, each branch of the tree receives required amount light and your own space without disturbing others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various fractures due to natural processes.
Finally, by cutting off old dead branches, you free the tree from excess load and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inopportune time and place.
In this article, we will look at the types of pruning fruit trees, find out when it is better to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study a video for beginners.
Pruning a garden is a procedure that is of great importance for the condition of plants and the quality of the crop. It regulates the metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.
Together with other agricultural methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:
- roots;
- wood;
- leaves;
- fruit.
In the course of existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different speeds at different times, directing forces:
- to strengthen the root system;
- to increase green mass;
- for intensive growth;
- for flowering and fruiting;
- to protect against disease;
- to prepare for a period of calm and so on.
Based on the intended goals, share six types of pruning:
- - delays aging and prolongs life.
- Formative- models appearance crowns.
- Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
- Restorative- brings parts of the plant into tone.
- Sanitary- heals the tree and relieves excess weight.
- supportive- refreshes and rewards with new forces.
Anti-aging
After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branches, which will “wake up” adnexal buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.
In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetic appearance of the tree. Rejuvenating pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots, skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from located in a good place. Such a procedure can be carried out both in autumn and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.
Formative
With the help of forming pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.
Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will go into intensive growth, while the Marchcropping will slow down this process.
Formative pruning goals:
- acceleration of the onset of flowering;
- increase in productivity;
- well-groomed appearance;
- ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
- increased endurance;
- ease of access to the branches for harvesting and care.
Formative pruning is not a one-time event, using this technique for several years the crown of the tree is gradually formed by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or acquired one, may also need it.
Regulatory
With adjustable trim the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform lighting, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and fruit yield and creates conditions for wood renewal and growth intensity.
It is held from the end of February to April, and also from August to September, it is actively used in industrial gardens.
Restorative
If the plant is damaged for some reason, give it back the opportunity further development recovery pruning will help. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, fullness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit. 
During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:
- to trees injured mechanically or frostbitten;
- if tree for a long time not cut off and now has a rather neglected look;
- when excessive growth of the crown has occurred, interfering with neighboring plants and making harvesting and necessary care difficult;
- if it has become difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient in sunlight.
Sanitary
Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an ambulance. Like most medical measures, it should be carried out as needed when the plant is sick, has acquired dried or broken branches, or frostbite.
This is done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and best time the beginning of summer is considered when the tree woke up. Regular and annual sanitary pruning will improve the health of the tree, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.
It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. You should also consider the age of the tree and its size.
supportive
held regularly during the life of the plants. It helps to support their growth and health, as well as fruiting, pursuing the following goals:- do not let out growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
- keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
- avoid exposure of large branches;
- rid the skeletal branches of the young shoots that annoy them;
- maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.
Determining factors and timing of pruning
The main load on the gardener falls at a time when the frost has already passed, but has not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, there is no longer any need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose nutrients along with the cut parts.
In some cases, the possibility of pruning up to the flowering period is allowed.
Did you know? In the city of Piedmont, Italy, an unusual double tree grows. It turned out from, on the top of which a cherry seed that had been brought in knows how sprouted. Developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining itself.
Early spring is the time to start pruning fruit trees. The first "swallows" in this matter are, and indeed pome fruits. Stones start a little later. 
The determining factors for a particular type of trimming are:
- tree species;
- condition of fruit trees.
apple trees- the most stable crops, which are least affected by others unfavourable conditions. It is with them that the work on recovery, rejuvenation and correction begins, and ends with them.
The branches of apple trees are prone to freezing at the ends even in frosts, it is better to clean this kind of damage closer to mid-May.
With cherries, cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:
- strong cherries or sweet cherries should be pruned after harvest;
- if the cherry is weak, circumcision in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
- it is recommended to prune the plum during the harvesting process, or in the middle or end of June.
They pinch the shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important things. Autumn pruning of fruit trees - sanitary.
Important! In the event that the branchesbroke under the weight of snow, ortrunk split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.
spring
You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts subside, but it will be right if the gardener waits for the time when is the sap flow going to start.
This time is considered the most suitable, since the tissues of the plant during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. The cut in such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is done correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, it may well be waited for, or even dispensed with in another year.
So, the basic rules that every gardener should follow:
- the earliest when you can start cutting is the time when the main frosts are gone, but it is better to wait until the moment you are ready for the juices to start moving;
- the cut is made above the eye growing from the crown in the outward direction, making it smooth and even from the inside to the outside.
- the skeletal branches with which the trunk continues remain longer;
- weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes, on strong trees eight or more eyes remain.
In summer
The concept of "summer pruning" includes several tricks carried out with green shoots that did not have time to acquire bark, in order to thin the crown for access to sunlight:
- pinching- in order for shoots to grow from the awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
- tweezing- for the development of a full-fledged formation of wood in the uterine branch, which will help accelerate and improve fruiting;
- breakout- to remove young shoots of no value for the crown, it is easily tolerated and does not need to be processed;
- fracture- a rarely carried out technique in order to give the growing branches the required direction;
- pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.
Did you know? Designers have learned how to form various objects, such as furniture, from a living growing tree using various agricultural techniques, including pruning.
autumn
Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in the spring, protective links are left. This technique is also good at this time of the year for a very. Trimming trees in the fall begins then, when the leaves come.
If you cut off a one-year-old shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this definitely cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will have a bad effect on the kidneys in the spring. The risk is higher the further north the garden is located.
However, if there is a need for sanitary pruning, the above considerations lose their relevance, vital indications are important here, as they say in medicine. Those affected by the disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and even more so does not pass to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.
Fruit trees are not well treated autumn pruning, and some may die or become very ill after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not affect young seedlings in the best way.
in winter
Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frost is rare and winters are mild. She is good because:
- plants get less stress, as they are in hibernation;
- the cuts made are more accurate and of high quality;
- it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all the branches are very clearly visible.
When a tree is damaged due to strong wind, icing of branches or excessive weight of snow, and, all the more, threatens with further splitting or breaking, the gardener does not have a question whether it can be cut off. You need to cut it, you just need to wait for the first opportunity, namely, the decrease or absence of frost.
What to do after pruning
Any circumcision leaves a wound surface on itself, from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, but large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be processed.
Important! In young peach and apricot, when planting and pruning, even the tiniest wounds need to be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In an adult apricot and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.
No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw that was cut, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - handle special tool intended for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.
You can not use any other paints, in addition to oil, - the solvents that make up their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.
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Today, the processes of editing photos on computers have already become completely commonplace, which almost any user understands. But novice users who are not familiar with the intricacies of working with Windows or other operating systems very often ask themselves the question: how to crop a photo on a computer? In any system, you can use its own tools, and some additional features in the form of graphic editors or even online services.
How to crop a photo on a computer: Paint editor
In any modification of the Windows OS from Microsoft, you can find a standard graphic application called Paint. And if earlier this editor looked absolutely uncompetitive compared to other software products, since it allowed only primitive operations and supported a minimum of graphic formats, today it has become much better. So first let's see how to crop a photo in Paint.
This is done quite simply. First, the selection tools are used. These are rectangular or freehand selection buttons, indicated by an area with a dotted line. Then cropping from the same menu is applied. In this case, the selected fragment will remain, and everything else will be deleted.
Another method that allows you to solve the problem of how to crop a photo in Paint is to delete the selected fragment using the appropriate command from the main panel menu or the Del key. In this case, the selected area will be deleted.
You can also go the other way. First, you need to copy or cut the selected area, then set the image size to some minimum (for example, 5x5 pixels) by pressing Ctrl + E. Then paste the cut or copied object from the clipboard.
In principle, if you use a similar but more advanced Paint.NET editor, the actions performed will practically not differ in any way. In all cases, after editing the picture, you can quickly save it using the Ctrl + S combination or use the standard save with a new name and the desired file format.
How to crop photos on a computer? Windows 7: Microsoft Picture Manager
Tools offered by Microsoft are only standard applications are not limited. You can also use the fairly good Microsoft Picture Manager utility, which is sometimes included in the basic Office packages.
Here the question of how to crop a photo on a computer is solved in almost exactly the same way as in previous editors. Only the workflow begins with using the Drawing menu in the main panel, where cropping is selected. But the selection of the desired area or fragment of the image is made after that.
Crop procedure in Photoshop
The Photoshop editor from Adobe Corporation has great features. How to crop a photo on a computer in this program? The problem is also solved quite simply.
As usual, the "Frame" tool is selected first, with the help of which the desired fragment is selected. After that, a grid appears on the selected area. On it you need to use the right click, selecting crop. The photo will be cropped. And it remains only to save.
In principle, in this editor, you can also use some specific tools that allow you to even crop layers. But for cases when it is required to leave any one fragment from a photo or picture, the above proposed method will be the simplest and fastest.
Applications for Mac OS X and Linux systems
Today, not only Windows systems can boast of having standard graphical tools.
So, in Mac OS X, you can use Apple iPhoto or Apple Aperture. On Linux, the GIMP, Shotwell, Dartable or DigiKam applications are great for this purpose, which you just need to install from the repository. In general, there are enough funds.
Online editors
Finally, there is one more, perhaps the most inconvenient of all those methods that help find a solution to the problem - how to crop a photo on a computer without programs. You can do this with the help of numerous online editors and resources that provide such services.
However, here you need to clearly understand that to work with them you will need an Internet connection. In addition, their use is not always justified. Why turn to them if all the simplest actions can be performed using standard tools of any OS or using installed graphic editors?
Don't like using editors? You can use the tools offered by functional sets of graphics viewing applications such as ACDSee and the like. Well, the question of choosing the most handy tool remains with the user. Although for the simplest operations in Windows, the usual Paint editor is enough. But the use of more powerful tools will be justified only if you want to do professional editing using special tools.
Seed propagation in the garden strawberry familiar to us, unfortunately, leads to the appearance of less productive plants and weaker bushes. But another type of these sweet berries - alpine strawberries, can be successfully grown from seeds. Let's learn about the main advantages and disadvantages of this crop, consider the main varieties and features of agricultural technology. The information presented in this article will help you decide whether it is worth giving her a place in the berry.
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Pumpkin is considered by many gardeners to be the queen of the beds. And not only because of its size, variety of shapes and colors, but also for its excellent taste, useful qualities and a rich harvest. Pumpkin contains a large amount of carotene, iron, various vitamins and minerals. Thanks to the possibility of long-term storage, this vegetable supports our health. all year round. If you decide to plant a pumpkin on your site, you will be interested to know how to get the largest possible harvest.
Scotch eggs are amazing! Try to cook this dish at home, there is nothing difficult to prepare. Scotch eggs are a hard boiled egg wrapped in minced meat, breaded in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep fried. For frying, you need a frying pan with a high rim, and if you have a deep fryer, then it's just great - even less hassle. You will also need deep-frying oil so as not to smoke the kitchen. Choose farm eggs for this recipe.
One of the most amazing large-flowered tub cubanola Dominican fully justifies the status of a tropical miracle. Heat-loving, slow-growing, with huge and in many ways unique bells of flowers, cubanola is a fragrant star with a difficult character. It requires special conditions in the rooms. But for those who are looking for exclusive plants for their interior, the best (and more chocolatey) candidate for the role of indoor giant cannot be found.
Chickpea Curry with Meat is a hearty hot dish for lunch or dinner inspired by Indian cuisine. This curry is quick to prepare, but requires pre-preparation. Chickpeas need to be soaked in in large numbers cold water for several hours, preferably at night, the water can be changed several times. It is also better to leave the meat in the marinade overnight so that it turns out juicy and tender. Then you should boil the chickpeas until tender and then cook the curry according to the recipe.
Rhubarb can not be found on everyone garden plot. It's a pity. This plant is a storehouse of vitamins and can be widely used in cooking. What is not prepared from rhubarb: soups and cabbage soup, salads, delicious jams, kvass, compotes and juices, candied fruit and marmalade, and even wine. But that's not all! A large green or red rosette of plant leaves, resembling burdock, protrudes beautiful background for one year olds. Not surprisingly, rhubarb can also be seen in flower beds.
Today, experiments with non-banal combinations and non-standard colors in the garden are in trend. For example, plants with black inflorescences have become very fashionable. All black flowers are original and specific, and it is important for them to be able to select suitable partners and a position. Therefore, this article will not only introduce you to the range of plants with slate-black inflorescences, but also teach you the intricacies of using such mystical plants in garden design.
3 delicious sandwiches - cucumber sandwich, chicken sandwich, cabbage sandwich with meat - great idea for a quick bite or for a picnic in nature. Only fresh vegetables, juicy chicken and cream cheese and some spices. There are no onions in these sandwiches, you can add marinated in balsamic vinegar an onion in any of the sandwiches, it will not spoil the taste. Having quickly prepared snacks, it remains to collect a picnic basket and go to the nearest green lawn.
Depending on the variety group, the age of seedlings suitable for planting in open ground, is: for early tomatoes - 45-50 days, medium ripening - 55-60 and late terms - at least 70 days. When planting seedlings of tomatoes at a younger age, the period of its adaptation to new conditions is significantly extended. But success in obtaining a high-quality crop of tomatoes also depends on the careful implementation of the basic rules for planting seedlings in open ground.
unpretentious plants The “second plan” of sansevieria does not seem boring to those who appreciate minimalism. They are better than other indoor decorative foliage stars for collections that require minimal maintenance. The stable decorative effect and extreme endurance of only one type of sansevieria are also combined with compactness and very fast growth - Khan's rosette sansevieria. The squat rosettes of their stiff leaves create striking clusters and patterns.
One of the brightest months garden calendar pleasantly surprises with the balance of the distribution of favorable and unsuccessful days for working with plants according to lunar calendar. Gardening and gardening in June can be done throughout the month, while the unfavorable periods are very short and still allow you to do useful work. There will be their optimal days for sowing with plantings, and for pruning, and for a pond, and even for construction work.
Meat with mushrooms in a pan is an inexpensive hot dish that is suitable for a regular lunch and for a festive menu. Pork will cook quickly, veal and chicken too, so this meat is preferable for the recipe. Mushrooms - fresh champignons, in my opinion, the most good choice for homemade stew. Forest gold - mushrooms, boletus and other goodies are best harvested for the winter. Boiled rice or mashed potatoes are ideal as a side dish.
I love ornamental shrubs, especially unpretentious and with an interesting, non-trivial foliage color. I have different Japanese spireas, Thunberg barberries, black elderberry ... And there is one special shrub that I will talk about in this article - the viburnum vesicle. To make my dream of a low maintenance garden come true, it's probably the perfect fit. At the same time, it is able to diversify the picture in the garden very much, moreover, from spring to autumn.
