Eggplants, being very sensitive plants, react quite vividly and sharply to any changes in soil, air, and water. A step to the right, a step to the left and that’s it - the leaves turn yellow, curl, the inflorescences fall off, the local end of the world for eggplants. In this article we will figure out why eggplant leaves wither in the open ground, in a greenhouse, and also what to do about it.

Growing in a greenhouse, eggplants are practically not exposed to negative external conditions, such as strong wind, hail, rain, scorching sun, birds and most insects. However, there are a lot of dangers that affect the appearance of the plant and inside the greenhouse.

First of all, the leaves may wilt due to too high a temperature in the greenhouse. Despite the fact that eggplant is a heat-loving crop, an increase in temperature above 30°C has a negative effect on the functioning of the plant. Dry hot air causes the leaf blades to first wither and then die.

Lack of moisture in the soil is another reason for this behavior of eggplants. In order for all vegetative processes to work as expected, the vegetable needs regular watering with warm water. Without saturating it with moisture, nutrients and liquid are concentrated in the stems, roots and inflorescences.

An acute shortage of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the fact that eggplant leaves are depleted and do not receive the necessary complex of microelements to maintain a healthy shape. Nitrogen acts as a stimulant and regulator of adequate distribution of nutrients in any plant, so its deficiency disrupts the working pattern of eggplant development.

Do not rule out leaf wilting as a consequence of plant replanting. Since the growing conditions in pots at home and in the soil in a greenhouse are different, the plant must go through a period of adaptation and acclimatization. Once the eggplant has established itself in the new soil, the leaves will become vigorous and green again.

The composition of the soil can also cause wilting. Eggplants grow well in crumbly soil with a high content of mineral and organic fertilizers. However, they do not take root very well in beds where tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers previously grew.

Video “10 commandments for growing eggplants”

This video talks about ways to successfully grow eggplants.

Troubleshooting methods

What should you do if the eggplant leaves are withering? First of all, try to identify the cause or their complex, which thus harms the plant. If the air temperature is high, regular ventilation should be carried out in the greenhouse in order to naturally lower it. To enhance the effect, you can place containers with cold water around the perimeter of the greenhouse. As the water evaporates, the air will cool and also become humidified, which will undoubtedly have a positive effect on the growth of eggplants.

Insufficient watering and the use of cold water, as the cause of leaf wilting, requires a complete change in the gardener's habits. When planting a crop that loves abundant moisture, you should ensure that the soil does not dry out. As for the temperature of the water, focus primarily on the temperature of the earth. A significant difference in temperature leads to the development of fungal microflora, which provokes diseases such as: powdery mildew, downy mildew, anthracnose, copperhead, root and gray rot. This causes enormous damage to the eggplant’s root system; it can begin to rot. Remember - the water temperature should be equal to or slightly higher than the temperature of the ground in the greenhouse.

When growing absolutely any crops in a greenhouse, monitor the composition of fertilizers that are in the soil. Since mineral and organic materials make up the lion's share of healthy eggplant growth, a deficiency can have dire consequences. In case of nitrogen deficiency, it is important to carry out foliar or root feeding. Mix 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water. Afterwards, water the plants in the greenhouse, at the rate of no more than 1 liter of liquid fertilizer per bush.

Be sure to follow crop rotation: do not plant eggplants twice in the same place or after potatoes, tomatoes, peppers. Cabbage and cucumbers are considered the best predecessors of eggplant. If you have lost sight of this point, then foliar fertilize the plants with organic fertilizers: chicken manure extract, boric acid, yeast solution.

When fungal diseases develop, it is necessary to treat all plants in the greenhouse with fungicidal preparations, for example, “Topsin-M”, “Trichodermin”, “Fitosporin”, etc. Depending on the type of disease, auxiliary treatment methods vary. So, with fusarium and late blight, it is important to remove all weeds, infected leaves and shoots, and then treat the plant with chemicals and onion peel infusion. For different types of rot (gray, white, root) - remove damaged parts of eggplants, treat the plants with Horus, Antrakol. In any case, it is important to monitor soil moisture, normal access to light and fertilizers.

The following are used as folk remedies to combat fungal diseases:

• Onion peel infusion: 0.5 liters of onion peel are infused in 3 liters of hot water for 2-3 days. The resulting infusion is filtered before use.
• Garlic infusion: grind 3 heads of garlic into a pulp, add 2 liters of hot water, leave for 8-12 hours. Before use, strain and dilute 1:3.
• Whey: 1 liter of sour milk is diluted with 1 liter of water, left for 12-14 hours. Before use, strain and add 1-2 tablespoons of liquid soap.
• Yeast solution: 10 g of dry yeast is dissolved in 10 liters of warm water, left for 2 days. Before use, dilute 1:10. You can also use 100 g of live yeast diluted in 10 liters of water, the solution is infused for 1-2 days, then filtered. Suitable for both foliar feeding and spraying of plants.

Video “Growing eggplants in a greenhouse”

Methods for growing eggplants in a greenhouse are discussed in detail in this video.

Hello. Something happened to my eggplants this year. We have already harvested the first harvest from them - two good eggplants each. The bushes are good, tall, with many flowers. And suddenly three bushes began to wither. The leaves hung like rags, the lower ones began to turn yellow and dry out. The flowers, of course, fell off without bearing fruit. I spilled potassium permanganate on all the bushes, but it didn’t help. Three good plants died. What was it, and how to protect your plants in the future?

Aliya Adasheva, Kazan

In my practice, I had to deal with wilting of eggplants, but I managed to save the plants and even get a harvest from them. The main thing is to make a diagnosis in time and use the right medications.

The worrying thing is that in the last 2-3 years there have been many more questions on this topic. The infection spreads because gardeners treat their plants incorrectly and violate agricultural practices.

The cause of eggplant wilting is fusarium. This is a disease in which the causative fungus attacks the root system. Penetrates into the plant through the soil. It spreads with the tool, and even on shoes.

Developing in the plant, the fungus clogs the blood vessels. As a result, the roots cannot absorb moisture and nutrients. Because of this, the leaves wither even in moist soil.

The first thing gardeners do when the leaves wilt is to start watering the plants frequently, as they believe that “someone has tampered with the roots.”

But excess watering only makes the situation worse. Frequent watering causes the soil to become compacted and acidic, which promotes the development of fungal infections.

Watering with potassium permanganate also does not work, since potassium permanganate is a weak fungicide. To achieve the effect, the solution must be very strong, but gardeners do not make this for fear of burning the roots. As a result, the potassium permanganate solution does not heal!

What to do?

COMBAT MEASURES

1. First of all, you need to inspect the plants more often so as not to miss the onset of the disease.

Fusarium affects many crops, including asters, zinnias, strawberries, and cucumbers, and in all cases the symptoms are very similar.

First, the leaves wither, as if there is not enough moisture. Therefore, the disease is called fusarium wilt. The next stage is when the leaves turn yellow and dry out, and eventually the whole plant dries out. For all crops, the treatment is the same - watering with fungicides at the roots.

Remember, fungicides are remedies for fungal diseases (Fungi in Latin means mushroom). Do not confuse with other drugs, such as insecticides.

At the first signs of leaf wilting (without waiting for them to turn yellow!) you need to apply fungicides URGENTLY. For ornamental crops you can use chemical ones - Maxim, Vitaros, Fundazol, and for vegetables only biological ones - Glyokladin, Trichocin, Fitolavin, Trichoderma veride.

2. When treating fusarium, there is no need to waste time and try different “folk remedies”. Fusarium wilt develops very quickly, and while you are experimenting, the plant may die.

On my site I used Gly-okladin and Trichocin. Noticing the first wilted leaves, I placed 3-4 tablets of Glyocladin under the diseased bushes. A few days later I poured it with Trichocin solution according to the instructions. The leaves have stopped wilting. New leaves at the ends of the shoots grew healthy. The fruits set and grew to normal size (photo 1).

Some gardeners also use chemicals to treat vegetable crops. But at the same time, you need to follow the instructions and strictly observe the waiting period - that is, the period during which the fruits cannot be consumed. On average it is 20-21 days.

When using biological drugs, the waiting period is 2-3 days.

3. When using biological products, use them correctly! The treatment must be repeated according to the instructions and most importantly, remember that biological products contain living organisms and require certain conditions to be met.

As soon as you spread out the Glyocladin tablets or spilled the soil with Trichocin, IMMEDIATELY mulch and water the soil. The water must be settled, without chlorine.

When using biological products, remember that the soil should not dry out. The surface should ALWAYS be moderately damp. This can only be achieved by mulching the soil with some kind of organic matter. It is best to use compost or grass clippings (you can also use weeds).

4. The best cure for all diseases is prevention.

The most important thing is a change of cultures. Many people have been growing the same crops in a greenhouse for years. As a result, diseases accumulate and affect your plants every year.

Eggplant must be planted in a new place every year. It takes a lot of nutrition out of the soil. And if you already had wilting last year, then you absolutely cannot plant these plants in their original place!

If there is no other greenhouse, plant eggplants in the ground. Early varieties of eggplant grow successfully in the Middle Zone.

Another important condition is disinfection of the soil before planting seedlings. The soil in the greenhouse is spilled with biological fungicides - Fitosporin, Alirin, Gamair, Trichocin. And after that, also do not forget to mulch the soil, otherwise the biological product will not work!

Water the eggplants only with warm water and only at the root. Cold water causes stress, and watering on leaves causes powdery mildew. Weakened plants are more likely to suffer from root rot and fusarium.

Feed your plants correctly. Eggplants are big gluttons. But manure infusion is not enough.

Fertilizing must be complex, be sure to apply phosphorus and, most importantly, potassium fertilizers (potassium monophosphate, potassium magnesium, potassium sulfate). You can also use ash (a glass in a bucket of water). Humic fertilizers work well, for example, Potassium Humate from the “Barrel and 4 Buckets” series. With such feeding, eggplants grow strong and are better able to resist disease.

Keep the soil loose, as fungal diseases are more likely to develop in dense soil, under the surface crust.

During the growth process, it is recommended to loosen the soil under the eggplants. Do not do that! You will injure the roots, and infection can easily penetrate into the wounds. To prevent the soil from caking, mulch the tree trunk, or better yet, the entire bed.

Apply biological fungicides prophylactically, that is, in advance, without waiting for the leaves to wilt, then your plants will not get sick.

Don't skimp on medications. Remember, plant diseases are not only crop losses, they are disappointments, but the garden should bring joy!

N. Petrenko, ch. editor,

Today we will find out why eggplant seedlings wither and fall? What to do if the leaves of eggplant seedlings dry out?

Why do the leaves of eggplant seedlings turn yellow?

The main reasons why eggplant seedlings turn yellow:

• nitrogen-poor soil;
• excess moisture;
• fungal infection root system – fusarium, verticillium;
• direct sunlight.

Nitrogen deficiency

Soil is not the only, but important source of nitrogen for growing eggplants. If a plant does not receive a sufficient amount of macronutrients through the root system, then it draws the necessary material for building new cells from itself.

The oldest ones are at risk - the lower cotyledon leaves, which turn out to be less of a priority for the plant than the upper growing ones.

Important! The more decompensated the macronutrient deficiency is, the higher the yellowness “rises” up the seedling.

Carefully dig up the plant and free its underground part from the soil. If the root system is unharmed, and the cotyledon leaves turn yellow and wither, the seedling emergency nitrogen-containing fertilizer is required.

Remember that you must use purchased products strictly according to the instructions, so as not to overdo the dosage and not harm the seedlings.

Unsuitable soil moisture

Excess soil moisture has the opposite effect on the seedling: yellowing starts from the top. During inspection of the root system, moist particles of soil are found between the intertwined roots.

Remember! In acidified water, bacteria and fungi intensively multiply, their metabolites shifting the pH of the soil to the acidic side. In severe cases, only complete replacement of the soil will help save the seedlings.

At the bottom and walls of containers with seedlings there is stagnant water and a wet green coating - a sign of the growth of fungal flora.

Help measures are as follows: if possible replace the soil in the seedling box.

If water stagnates at its bottom, make several large drainage holes and be sure to place the box on a pallet.

Fusarium

Fusaria – a fungus that lives in the soil and attacks weakened plants. Often, spores are brought into the ground with untreated seeds. Under favorable conditions, destructive fungi are formed from spores, penetrating into plants through injured roots or wounds on the stem.

The appearance of an eggplant affected by Fusaria is:

• stunting;
• brown stem color and its cut;
• pink coating on the roots, spreading to the ground part of the seedling;
• yellowed leaves with light veins;
• yellow cotyledon leaves rolled into tubes.

You can help your plants in the following ways:

1. remove dying plants from the box, planting those that can still be saved in a separate container;
2. replace the soil and seedling box;
3. use a fungicidal drug (Benazol, Fundazol, Strekar, Trichodermin) according to the instructions.

Important! Before planting seeds, do not forget about the prevention of fusarium: disinfection of seed material, soil, and containers for seedlings.

Verticillium

The following signs will help you recognize a diseased plant:

• affected the leaves look variegated and withering, their yellowing begins with veins;
• following their color change the vegetative parts of the eggplant wilt: they curl into a spiral and fall off, giving the impression that the leaves have been burned with boiling water;
• on the cut the stem is brown.

Fighting tactics:

1. immediately remove diseased seedlings (it would be better to burn them so that the fungus does not settle in the compost pit;
2. plant healthy eggplants in a new box with soil;
3. carry out treatment and prevention with fungicides: Previkur, Rovral, Topsin.

Important! The fight against verticillium rarely ends in success, so try to save seedlings that do not have symptoms of the disease.

UV rays

Direct long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation is fraught with the breakdown of chlorophyll, the green respiratory cytochrome necessary for photosynthesis by the plant.

Leaves who received burns, may have yellow speckles or turn yellow completely.

Please note that only the upper surfaces of the leaves facing the sunny side of the window or greenhouse are affected. If this is the case, then rest assured that the cause is sunburn.

If your seedlings are exposed to the open sun for a long time, they should be covered with paper or cloth from 12:00 to 15:00.

Watch a short video on how to deal with yellowness:

Why do eggplant seedlings wither?

If young plants dry out, check to see if one of the factors is affecting the seedlings:

• hypothermia, low soil temperature;
• inadequate;
• recent or transplant;
• fungal infection.

Cold soil

Through the conductive system of the plant, liquid heated by the soil flows from the roots to the vegetative organs of eggplants.

If the ground temperature is not high enough, moisture transport processes are disrupted.

The plant becomes dehydrated despite sufficient watering.

Important! Eggplant is a heat-loving plant. A comfortable temperature for its development is not lower than 13° at night and 22-26° during the day.

Find out if the soil is being cooled by drafts or cold air flows from the street. Measure the ambient temperature - if it is not high enough, use artificial heating of the soil and watering the seedlings with warm water 25-28°.

Dehydration

Insufficient watering the leaves look sluggish, thin and drooping under the force of its own gravity. A change in the color of the vegetative parts of the seedling is not typical for a lack of moisture in the plant. Dry, lumpy soil will indicate the need to change the seedling watering regime.

Stress

Wilting of eggplant cotyledon leaves after picking or transplanting is considered acceptable.

Due to the strength lost by the plant during adaptation to the new environment and damage to part of the root system, the old lower leaves of the eggplant may die. If you notice that the top of the plant dries out - the reason is not a change in soil.

Fungus

Early manifestations of fungal diseases may look like causeless wilting of eggplants.

06 06.18

Why do eggplant leaves turn yellow and wither? Eliminating the causes!

Eggplant is a very capricious and delicate vegetable that loves a lot of attention and care. Many gardeners try to grow it, but they often see an unpleasant picture: for some reason the seedlings suddenly begin to weaken, turn pale, droop and finally wither. Very young shoots can also begin to dry out for some unknown reason. According to agronomists, in this case, in order to understand why this is happening, you will need to carefully examine your garden bed and figure out what is wrong with it. This may be the result of several factors.

Eggplant is a southern plant and requires sufficient warmth and sunlight. This is a prerequisite for normal growth and development. In order for fruits to appear, in addition to suitable weather, it needs fertilizing, protection from pests and diseases.

Lack of mineral elements

One of the reasons for the death of seedlings may be a lack of substances necessary for plants in the soil. If there are not enough nitrogen compounds, then the leaves of the seedlings begin to dry out. And although such a picture is not uncommon in garden plots, owners do not always pay attention to it in time. Nitrogen promotes the uniform distribution of microelements from the soil necessary for life throughout the plant.

When the lower leaves begin to turn yellow, it can be assumed that there is a lack of substances such as potassium, iron and copper. If such a sign is present, the application of complex fertilizer will be required.

If the reason for the weakening of the seedlings is a lack of essential minerals, then after a while it will again become green and noticeably stronger.

Excess moisture

Excess water can also lead to weakened seedlings. In case of flooding, you should almost completely stop watering them, because bacteria and fungi multiply very quickly in acidified water. It is recommended to change the soil.

Of course, eggplant seedlings can die if there is a lack of moisture. The leaves become thinner, wither, droop and dry out. However, their color does not change. If the soil is very dry, it is necessary to water it.

Sun rays

Blue ones, of course, are a southern plant. However, it does not tolerate excessive prolonged exposure to rays. They destroy chlorophyll and destroy seedlings. Noticeable yellow increasing specks form on the leaves, especially on the side facing the sun. In the open sun, eggplants grow poorly and begin to dry out quickly. For those who grow them on windows, advice: during solar activity, the shoots should be covered. If possible, adult bushes should be protected from scorching rays.

Unsuitable temperature

Another reason for blue leaves drying out can be cold soil. This is not uncommon in cool regions with unstable weather. If water is not heated by the soil to a suitable temperature, the process of its supply to the vegetative organs of the plant may be disrupted even with abundant watering. For eggplant, a comfortable temperature at night is at least 13°, and during the day – approximately 23-24° C. It is best to grow the vegetable in a greenhouse. They should be watered with heated and settled water.

Pests

Eggplant has large but very tender leaves. If agricultural practices are not followed, the leaves may begin to wither.

Most often, eggplant leaves wither for the following reasons:

• transplanting seedlings into the ground;
• sudden changes in temperature;
• soil acidification;
• plenty of sunlight;
• fungal infections: verticillium and fusarium wilt.

What to do if eggplant leaves wither

1. If the leaves wither immediately after replanting the plant, then there is no need to worry too much: this is how the process of getting used to the new conditions takes place. After a couple of weeks, the eggplants will get stronger. It is better to plant seedlings on a cloudy but warm day. To reduce stress for plants, harden the seedlings before planting and shade the bed from the sun for the first time.
2. With sudden changes in temperature, eggplants begin to wither and become sick. Often, eggplants begin to be planted when the air temperature is already quite high, and the earth has not yet warmed up. This can lead to the fact that even if the plant does not die, it will either not produce a harvest, or the fruits will be small and few in number. Plant eggplants only when the threat of frost has passed and there will be little temperature variation between day and night.
3. With too much watering and stagnation of water in the soil, the soil begins to acidify and the leaves wither. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil. To reduce soil acidity, it is recommended to use dolomite flour (a glass of flour per 1 sq.m.). Dolomite flour will not only reduce acidification, but also enrich the soil with calcium and magnesium.
4. Eggplants love the sun and cannot thrive without it, but too much sunlight causes the leaves to become limp. If eggplants “come to life” on cloudy days, then the plantings need to be shaded. Place the eggplant beds in areas where the sun will illuminate them in the morning or evening.
5. Fungal infections cause leaves to wilt. The most common are: verticillium wilt and fusarium wilt.

Verticillium wilt often develops on soils where excessive doses of nitrogen fertilizers and unrotted manure have been applied. It is characterized by leaf wilting from the edge to the center and affects eggplants at all stages of development. In the soil, fungi live on plant remains.

To prevent Verticillium wilt from infecting your eggplants, remove weeds regularly and do not overfeed the plants with nitrogen fertilizers. An infected plant can be treated with Vitaros or Previkur. A heavily infected plant should be burned.

Fusarium wilt develops with excessive watering and during periods of prolonged rain. With Fusarium wilt, it is mainly the lower leaves that wilt.

To prevent infection, be sure to disinfect gardening tools and seedling pots. Before planting, it is recommended to keep the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate. Provide air circulation at the roots - this will reduce the risk of infection.

Leaves of eggplants wither in a greenhouse

Due to the difficulty of meeting all the conditions when growing eggplants in the ground, summer residents are increasingly choosing a greenhouse for this. In the greenhouse, eggplants will be protected from drafts, cold nights, frequent rains, and scorching sun. But it is in the greenhouse that eggplant leaves begin to wither due to high air humidity, excessive watering and lack of air.

Therefore, when growing eggplants in a greenhouse, you must follow several rules:

1. To protect eggplants from sudden temperature changes and drafts, do not plant eggplants at the exit of the greenhouse.
2. Since eggplants love air, ventilate the greenhouse regularly.
3. Maintain moderation in watering and fertilizing.

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