Why do the leaves of eggplants in a greenhouse wither? Why do eggplant leaves wither and what to do to save them

Like other nightshade crops, eggplant is a heat-loving plant that does not like high humidity and sudden temperature changes. It is these factors that most often cause eggplant diseases, and their treatment becomes necessary.

It is worth saying that peppers, tomatoes and eggplants have common diseases, so crop rotation should be observed so that diseases of these crops are not inherited.

Eggplants: diseases and their control

Fungal diseases of eggplant

The most common disease of eggplant seedlings, like seedlings of other crops, is black leg. The fungus lives in the soil, and under favorable conditions it moves to the stem at the point of contact with the soil, clogs the blood vessels and cuts off nutrition to the plant. The root area of ​​the stem darkens, after which a constriction occurs, the stem becomes thin, rots, the plant falls and dies.

Prevention and treatment of black leg on eggplant seedlings

Since the fungus lives in the soil, it must be disinfected before sowing the seeds. Avoid high soil moisture, acidic soils, dense plantings, insufficient lighting, sudden temperature changes, and do not overfeed seedlings with nitrogen fertilizers.

It is possible to cure eggplant blackleg if the fungus has not seriously damaged the crop, otherwise it is advisable to get rid of the seedlings. If you notice only a few diseased plants, remove them with a clod of earth, and be sure to add fungicides to the soil in the form of tablets, powders (Glyokladin), or in the form of water-soluble preparations (Fitosporin, Alirin, Gamair, Planriz, HOM, Previkur). In the absence of preparations, at least spill the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate or sprinkle it with coal, ash, or better yet, a mixture of coal/ash with river sand.

Eggplant late blight disease

Late blight is the main enemy of all nightshade crops. Initially, this disease affects eggplant leaves - characteristic brown-red spots with a light green border appear on them, quickly spreading to the stem and fruit. The symptoms are aggravated by high humidity (morning fogs), sudden temperature changes, and dense plantings - a white coating appears on the back of the leaves, and in dry weather they dry out. brownish-brown, blurry spots form on the fruits and peduncles. Eggplant late blight can strike the plant at any time during the growing season.

Prevention and treatment of eggplant late blight

After the autumn harvest of nightshades, be sure to dispose of all the tops as a possible source of fungus. It has been noticed that if late blight has affected potatoes and tomatoes, in ten to fifteen days it will reach eggplants. To prevent late blight in eggplant, you can use traditional methods. For example, spraying with garlic tincture (200 grams of crushed garlic is infused for several days in three liters of water, immediately before treatment diluted with water 50/50), spraying with whey diluted with water 50/50. If you are not a fan of organic farming, you can use fungicides to prevent late blight in eggplant.

Treatment of late blight without fungicides it is unlikely to be successful. For this, use Bordeaux mixture or 0.2% solution of copper sulfate, preparations Quadris, Antrakol, Consento. But keep in mind that after spraying with these preparations, you can eat eggplants no earlier than 10 days later. Sprinkling with regular ash slows down the growth of late blight spots.

Sclerotinia disease of eggplant

White rot of eggplant, or sclerotinia, first settles on the root system of the plant, since the fungus lives in the ground. Subsequently, a white coating begins to appear on the stem, and compactions - sclerotia - form inside the stem. Over time, these seals soften, and the access of food to the plant slows down. Dark wet spots appear on the leaves and fruits, the fruit becomes watery, soft, and over time – slimy, covered with white spots. Later, black sclerotia appear on the fruits. Most often, this eggplant disease affects young plantings, especially if the seedlings were planted in cold, waterlogged soil. By the way, it is white rot that most often affects eggplant fruits during storage.

Prevention and treatment of eggplant sclerotinia

Since sclerotia can live in the soil for up to 10 years, pay great attention to preparing the soil for planting. Fogs, frequent rains, and high air humidity in dense plantings contribute to the development of white rot.

Treatment of white rot in eggplant consists of removing the affected parts of plants and dusting the cut areas with wood ash. You can also use traditional fungicides - copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture. To support a diseased plant, it is advisable to feed the eggplants with complex mineral fertilizers, ventilate the greenhouses, and keep the garden bed clean.

Eggplant disease Alternaria (gray rot)

Alternaria blight of eggplant appears on the leaves as round brown spots, on the fruits as “wet” depressed spots that increase in area. Later they merge and soften. The color of the affected areas of the fruit ranges from olive-gray to black. This fungus is transmitted through plant debris, sometimes through insects, and lives in the ground for about two years. Most often, this type of rot affects eggplants in places of minor damage - mechanical, cracks, burns, etc. The ideal conditions for the development of eggplant Alternaria blight are elevated temperature and humidity. Eggplants growing at the bottom of the bush, as well as late-ripening and mid-ripening varieties, are most prone to gray rot.

Prevention and treatment of gray rot of eggplants

The main preventive measure is the disposal of all plant residues, soil disinfection, compliance with crop rotation, timely weed control and ventilation of greenhouses. Treatment of gray rot of eggplants consists of treating with fungicides - copper sulfate, Fitosporin, Trichodermin, colloidal sulfur, HOM, Antrakol, Horus. It is recommended to dry the soil a little.

Fusarium disease of eggplant

Among tracheomycosis wilting eggplant The causative agent of fusarium wilt of eggplants causes the greatest harm, and it is to this that we will pay attention. It should be noted that another causative agent of tracheomycosis wilt, which causes verticillium, also occurs quite often, but causes less damage to eggplant plantings, and its symptoms and treatment are similar to fusarium.

This is mainly eggplant disease in a greenhouse, manifested during the period of mass fruiting. Pathogenic fungi penetrate from contaminated soil into the stem, cause blockage of blood vessels and release toxins, causing plants to develop toxicosis. The latter manifests itself in the form of necrosis on the leaves, wilting of the eggplant, starting from the top. Eggplant leaves curl, turn yellow, dry out. It is also possible for fungal spores to penetrate through mechanical damage to the fruit. Fusarium is activated at temperatures around 22-26 degrees against a background of high humidity. Often this fungal disease of eggplant in a greenhouse becomes chronic, depleting the plants and reducing their productivity.

Prevention and treatment of eggplant fusarium

These pathogenic fungi are resistant to most fungicides, so all the gardener’s efforts should be aimed at preventing the disease. Thus, it is necessary to grow varieties that are resistant to eggplant wilting; if the disease is detected in previous years, replace all the soil in the greenhouse, promptly disinfect it, and also disinfect the seed material before sowing. If fusarium blight is detected, it is recommended to remove the entire affected plant and treat the remaining plants and soil with benzimidazoles.

Eggplant disease Cercospora leaf spot (Cercospora leaf spot)

This fungal infection first affects eggplant leaf disease, stems, stalks - small round chlorotic spots appear on them, which grow over time, can stretch, and the leaf tissue dies. If the weather is humid outside, eggplant cercospora will appear in the form of sporulation spots. Due to a decrease in the photosynthetic surface of the leaves, the fruits grow small and underdeveloped. The method of transmission of this disease in eggplant is through spores during the growing season, through irrigation water, wind or garden tools. It can survive in plant debris for up to a year. Cercospora blight of eggplant, caused by Cercosporosa physalidis, is also dangerous for physalis and pepper.

Prevention and treatment of cercospora eggplant

Prevention of this eggplant leaf disease consists of proper crop rotation, utilization of plant residues, and ensuring low air humidity. It is also necessary to ensure that during watering the droplets do not fall on the eggplant leaves. Treatment can be carried out with Bordeaux mixture and other traditional fungicides. The resistance of the crop to this fungal disease increases significantly when complex mineral fertilizers are added to the soil.

Eggplant disease anthracnose

This fungal disease is typical for open ground eggplants and is rare in greenhouses. Imperfect mushroom Colletotrichum melogena Lob. also poses a danger to peppers and tomatoes, but can be transmitted by plant residues of not only nightshades, but also soybeans, pumpkin and a number of weeds. Eggplant anthracnose appears on the leaves as oval brown spots, on the fruits as depressed brown-gray spots that grow and merge; the affected fruit may crack.

Prevention and treatment of eggplant anthracnose

Because this eggplant disease lives in plant debris, less often in soil and seeds; prevention will consist of removing plant debris from the garden bed and preventing the proximity of nightshade and pumpkin plants in farms unaffected by anthracnose.

The fight against eggplant anthracnose disease is carried out by treating plants with a 0.3-0.4% concentration of HOM solution.

Eggplant disease Phomopsis (eggplant dry rot)

Dry rot is more typical for open ground plants, but can also be found in greenhouses. This eggplant disease may appear at the stage of the first entrances - the seedlings turn brown and rot. In mature Phomopsis seedlings, it looks like wet ringing rot on the root area of ​​the stem. Brown round spots with a light center begin to form on the leaf veins, which are soon covered with black dots. On eggplant fruits, Phomopsis appears as dry, depressed brown spots with black spore spots, which become slimy over time. As a result, the fruits rot, starting from the base, become covered with spots - brown at the edges and light in the center, the spots grow until they cover the entire fruit. Eventually the eggplant flesh turns into soft rot, covered in black dots of mushrooms in the shape of concentric rings. Phomopsis can appear on eggplants during transportation.

Prevention and treatment of dry rot of eggplants

Pathogenic fungus that causes Phomopsis eggplant, stored in seeds and plant debris. Favorable conditions for its development are hot weather accompanied by high humidity. Thus, prevention consists of removing plant debris, using varieties resistant to Phomopsis, and disinfecting seeds before sowing.

Treatment of dry rot of eggplants can be carried out with Bordeaux mixture, as well as fungicides based on chlorotolonil, mancozeb, prochloraz, carbendazim.

Bacterial diseases of eggplant

Bacterial spot of eggplant

The causative agent of bacterial spot is the bacterium Xanthomonas vericatoria. Possible manifestation of this eggplant diseases in a greenhouse, exactly the same as in open ground. It affects all organs of the plant during any growing season: the leaves are covered with small black spots with a yellow border, the stems and petioles are covered with oblong spots, the fruits are covered with convex dots with watery edges. The latter eventually grow to enormous sizes and turn into ulcers. The disease is activated at temperatures above 25 degrees and high humidity. Bacteria are stored in plant residues and seeds, penetrating into fruits through microtraumas and into leaves through stomata.

Prevention and treatment of bacterial spot of eggplant

The main safety measure is to use treated seeds, observe crop rotation and burn plant residues.

If young seedlings survive bacterial blight, they will no longer produce a good harvest. Treatment is usually not successful. All that can be recommended is to destroy the affected fruits and keep the garden clean.

Viral diseases of eggplant

Eggplant mosaics – tobacco, cucumber, ordinary

Among viral diseases of eggplant Tobacco mosaic virus (Tabacco mosaic virus) is most common, although it is possible that it can also be affected by other mosaics - ordinary (speckled) and cucumber. The infection lives in plant debris and enters plants through equipment (during transplanting, picking) or through insects (aphids, whiteflies, thrips). Much less commonly, this viral disease of eggplant is transmitted through the soil. The symptoms of mosaic on eggplants are as follows: first, light spots of a characteristic mosaic shape form along the leaves, which increase and die. Fruits on crops affected by the virus grow ugly and underdeveloped.

Eggplant disease phytoplasmosis

Phytoplasmosis, or stolbur, affects tomatoes, eggplants, grapes, peppers, potatoes, as well as a number of weeds. This viral disease is more typical for open ground, although in the second half of summer it can also affect greenhouse plantings. It appears on all organs of the culture: the leaves grow small, pale, with a purple tint; flowers - deformed, with fused discolored petals, underdeveloped stamens and a shortened pistil; stem – sclerotic or lignified; the fruits are small, hard, ugly, with few seeds. This virus is transmitted mainly by leafhoppers. By the way, this eggplant disease looks very much like spider mite damage, but the symptoms are much more pronounced.

Prevention and treatment of viral eggplant diseases

As you know, diseases of a viral nature are practically untreatable, so all efforts of summer residents should be aimed at prevention. To do this, in farms that are unfavorable for stolbur and mosaic, it is recommended to treat plants with insecticides, starting from seedling age (viruses are spread by insects). For this you can use Aktara, Mospilan, Konfidor. You should also destroy weeds - breeding grounds for insects, and treat the plots and surrounding areas with Actellik, Fufanon, Decis and other means. Plants affected by the virus are removed from the plots and burned. And, of course, you should use clean planting material, disinfect equipment, and treat seed material before sowing.

Thus, eggplant diseases most often occur when pre-sowing measures are ignored, in clogged beds, and also in hot, humid years. Eggplant diseases and their treatment will cost the gardener much more than simple preventive measures. Do not spare sick seedlings, do not thicken the plantings, treat the seeds - and the harvest will definitely please you.

Kira Stoletova

Eggplants belong to the nightshade family. They love warmth and die when frozen. Before planting, you should understand the causes of possible diseases. Let's look at why eggplant leaves dry out and how to avoid this problem?

Why do eggplants dry in the greenhouse?

If dryness manifests itself even in the greenhouse, the reason is an insufficient amount of microelements. The soil is not fertilized, dries out and is poorly moistened.

Nitrogen stimulates eggplant growth. This element is responsible for the normal development of vegetable crops. And if there is a lack of it, even if you water it correctly, provide normal lighting and maintain the desired temperature in the greenhouse, the lower part of the bush will wither and dry out. It is necessary to immediately compensate for the nitrogen deficiency, and the seedlings will acquire a healthy appearance.

Why do eggplants dry out in the garden?

After transplanting from a greenhouse to open ground, the leaves of eggplant seedlings dry out very often. This is normal. This is how seedlings react to stress. This phenomenon is especially observed with a sharp change in temperature. The second reason why the leaves of eggplant seedlings dry is improper care of the sprouts in the initial stage of development. If you take good care of it in the future, the green and healthy appearance will return to the plants.

If the eggplants dry out at later stages, then the problem is due to improper care or disease. Improper care includes:

• violation of crop rotation;
• lack of lighting;
• poor feeding;
• hypothermia;
• lack of air;
• temperature changes;
• violation of the irrigation regime.

It is very important not to disturb crop rotation and follow the rules of sequential planting. This will help avoid poor plant development. All necessary nutrients will be retained in the soil.

Prolonged exposure to the sun also causes dryness. Ultraviolet light promotes the breakdown of chlorophyll. It is this element that allows plants to breathe and promotes photosynthesis. The top cover gets sunburned. At first it looks like yellow specks. Then it can go into complete drying. Therefore, you need to pay attention to how the beds are located on the field or in the greenhouse. To avoid burns, you can shade the windows in the room or arrange the beds in a different way. You can cover with paper or cloth during the hottest period from 12 to 15 hours of the day.

Types of leaf deformation and methods of control

Deformation can manifest itself in different ways. One type of deformation is its withering. This is the first signal before yellowing and further dryness.

Usually this phenomenon occurs on a bright sunny day, and later in the evening the bush can completely recover. If you notice a musty smell from the soil, the soil is overly moist. You need to dry it, skipping the next watering, and loosen the soil near the bush. If this happened in a greenhouse with seedlings, before planting them in a permanent place, then you can simply transfer the eggplants to another box and add new dry soil.

The leaves are the first to take the blow from the temperature difference. As a result, they can wither, lose elasticity, become stained, and later turn yellow and dry out. To avoid this in a greenhouse, you need to raise the pots with seedlings higher. Approximately 20 cm from the ground. To prevent this from happening in open ground, the required timing of transplanting seedlings or sowing seeds should be maintained.

The same conditions apply to hypothermia. Often, if the hardening is not done correctly, deformation occurs. Before the procedure, it is necessary to water the seedlings. Seedlings do not like cold water. You need to water with heated water. Otherwise, the leaf may curl, begin to dry out and die.

Another type of deformation is the appearance of black spots before the sprout completely dries. This causes a disease called Blackleg. Seedlings are completely removed. The remaining healthy shoots are sprinkled with ash. This will draw out excess water from the soil. Subsequently, Previcura is added.

Diseases

Eggplant is susceptible to fungal and viral diseases, which also sometimes lead to its drying out. Such diseases include:

• fusarium and gray rot;
• speckled, cucumber or tobacco mosaic;
• verticillium;
• late blight

Fusarium and gray mold

Fusarium is one of the most unpleasant fungal diseases. The microorganism lives in the ground and attacks weak plants. It often gets into the ground along with poorly processed seeds. Fungi grow from spores and penetrate plants that were injured during transplanting or caring for them. Diseased plantings differ from healthy ones in their appearance:

• are developmentally delayed;
• a brown coating appears on the stem and on its cut;
• pinkish roots;
• pink tint of the basal part of the stem;
• yellowed, dried out leaves with light veins at the edges;
• cotyledon leaves are twisted into tubes.

Gray rot is distinguished by a white coating. At first it is fluffy, then it turns gray. The bush dies.

Late blight

Late blight first causes brown spots to appear on the lower leaves. The whole plant is sick: leaves, stems, and fruits, if they have already appeared. Gradually everything turns black.

Vertisillosis

The fungus Verticillium causes the disease vertisillosis. This is manifested by yellowing, dryness and falling off of the top cover. At first, the affected areas become variegated, the veins turn yellow. Then the disease takes over all vegetative parts. They begin to twist into a spiral, become dry and fall off. The lesions are similar to burns from boiling water. If you make a cut, you can see that the stem has turned brown inside.

Methods of combating viral and fungal diseases

To destroy the fungus, you need to use special store-bought products: Quadris, Antracol, Consent.

Phytosporin and Radomid work well. These are more radical means. After treatment, you need to expect results within 20-25 days.

Speckled, cucumber or tobacco mosaics are viral diseases. To prevent them from appearing, you need to follow the principles of crop rotation, weed well and remove plant debris between the beds. Incorrect watering temperature can also cause these diseases. Therefore, it is important to follow recommendations for watering, air and soil temperatures.

There is only one way to fight vertisillosis. Diseased seedlings or plants are burned. Under no circumstances should any leftovers be thrown into the compost, to avoid contamination of the entire compost pit and subsequent contamination of other vegetables.

Healthy vegetables need to be transplanted to another place. If these are seedlings, then a new, treated box of soil. Carry out subsequent treatment with fungicides. Such as Previkur, Rovral or Topsin.

However, they still try to grow it in their garden, encountering problems with wilting, curling and damage to the vegetable. In this article, you will learn why leaves turn yellow, wither or become deformed, and also become familiar with the reasons for the slow growth of seedlings and the appearance of white spots on vegetables.

Eggplant seedlings do not grow

After the pick transplanting eggplant seedlings from a common box into individual pots, a problem may arise due to which the leaves begin to wither.

This is caused by damage to the roots during transplantation. In this case, the drug will save you. But before carrying out the procedure, inspect the roots. If they turn brown, it is better to transplant the eggplant into a large container and add the drug. They are capricious about the wind, even the lightest. Therefore, it is better to keep seedlings away from windows. If there is no such place, then for the time of ventilation it is better to move the box with vegetables to another warm place.

On forums you can often come across such a question as “ Why do eggplants fall?" It is the wind that causes this problem. Therefore, before planting in open ground, it should be hardened off. During this period, do not forget about, which will strengthen the seedlings for future “living” on the street. It is better to use , and .

Important! Add fertilizers according to dosage and instructions.

Causes of wilting

When growing vegetables in open ground, gardeners encounter the following problem: wilting eggplant leaves. This happens mainly during the day in sunlight, and in the morning they are restored.

Reasons for this problem some:

1. Waterlogging of the soil from excessive, resulting in souring. In this case, you will smell a musty smell near the box. Get rid of this problem easily- just transfer the eggplants and add soil to new large pots. Frequent watering should be avoided;
2. Temperature difference. Cold air enters from the cracks of window frames or from an open window. At this time, the sun's rays hit the leaves and evaporate moisture. There is a difference in temperature. You can solve this problem as follows - raise the pots with seedlings to 20 cm above using a bowl;
3. Lack of air for the root system. The growing seedlings are very crowded in the box, so oxygen does not reach the roots. This can be corrected by loosening the top layer of soil and adding drainage holes;
4. Hypothermia. During hardening, eggplants may wilt. Therefore, before hardening, the plants need to be watered with warm water;
5. Blackleg. This disease occurs due to excess moisture. The leaves wither and dark spots appear on the stems. Gradually the seedlings die. Affected shoots should be removed, and healthy ones should be sprinkled with ash to draw out excess water. After this, you can add Previcura.

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If there are none, then there are spots on the leaves and stems - these are burns from a lamp or sun. It is enough to simply move the plant away from the lamp or shade the shoots from sunlight using tulle.
Spots on the leaves may appear due to an excess of fertilizers, especially potassium-calcium nitrate. You can get rid of this problem by using a weak solution of potassium permanganate and treating the leaves with a mixture and citric acid.

Why do the leaves curl?

Leaves can become deformed for various reasons:

Eggplants love water very much., so due to lack of water their leaves may curl. In this regard, it is recommended to water the plants 3 times a week with settled water at room temperature. You should also periodically check the top layer of soil. If it's dry - water the seedlings.
Bad light also leads to deformation of seedling leaves. Therefore, you should make a daylight plan. The seedlings should stand in the sun for up to 12 hours, after which they must be sent to a dark place.

Mineral deficiency affects . This condition is caused by a lack of nitrogen, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. You can replenish the supply of minerals with fertilizers. The main thing is not to overdo it.

Soil salinity. This problem occurs when there is an excess of fertilizers. The plant begins to wither, and the leaves curl and dry out. To get rid of this problem, just rinse the soil with clean water.

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Yellowing of eggplants

Seedlings collect nutrients from the soil that are necessary for growth and development. However, many beginners do not know why eggplants turn yellow.
This happens because vegetables need a microelement such as molybdenum. You can replenish the supply using the Sudarushka fertilizer for nightshade crops. Fertilizing will have a good effect on the seedlings and the fruits will stop turning yellow.

Hello. Something happened to my eggplants this year. We have already harvested the first harvest from them - two good eggplants each. The bushes are good, tall, with many flowers. And suddenly three bushes began to wither. The leaves hung like rags, the lower ones began to turn yellow and dry out. The flowers, of course, fell off without bearing fruit. I spilled potassium permanganate on all the bushes, but it didn’t help. Three good plants died. What was it, and how to protect your plants in the future?

Aliya Adasheva, Kazan

In my practice, I had to deal with wilting of eggplants, but I managed to save the plants and even get a harvest from them. The main thing is to make a diagnosis in time and use the right medications.

The worrying thing is that in the last 2-3 years there have been many more questions on this topic. The infection spreads because gardeners treat their plants incorrectly and violate agricultural practices.

The cause of eggplant wilting is fusarium. This is a disease in which the causative fungus attacks the root system. Penetrates into the plant through the soil. It spreads with the tool, and even on shoes.

Developing in the plant, the fungus clogs the blood vessels. As a result, the roots cannot absorb moisture and nutrients. Because of this, the leaves wither even in moist soil.

The first thing gardeners do when the leaves wilt is to start watering the plants frequently, as they believe that “someone has tampered with the roots.”

But excess watering only makes the situation worse. Frequent watering causes the soil to become compacted and acidic, which promotes the development of fungal infections.

Watering with potassium permanganate also does not work, since potassium permanganate is a weak fungicide. To achieve the effect, the solution must be very strong, but gardeners do not make this for fear of burning the roots. As a result, the potassium permanganate solution does not heal!

What to do?

COMBAT MEASURES

1. First of all, you need to inspect the plants more often so as not to miss the onset of the disease.

Fusarium affects many crops, including asters, zinnias, strawberries, and cucumbers, and in all cases the symptoms are very similar.

First, the leaves wither, as if there is not enough moisture. Therefore, the disease is called fusarium wilt. The next stage is when the leaves turn yellow and dry out, and eventually the whole plant dries out. For all crops, the treatment is the same - watering with fungicides at the roots.

Remember, fungicides are remedies for fungal diseases (Fungi in Latin means mushroom). Do not confuse with other drugs, such as insecticides.

At the first signs of leaf wilting (without waiting for them to turn yellow!) you need to apply fungicides URGENTLY. For ornamental crops you can use chemical ones - Maxim, Vitaros, Fundazol, and for vegetables only biological ones - Glyokladin, Trichocin, Fitolavin, Trichoderma veride.

2. When treating fusarium, there is no need to waste time and try different “folk remedies”. Fusarium wilt develops very quickly, and while you are experimenting, the plant may die.

On my site I used Gly-okladin and Trichocin. Noticing the first wilted leaves, I placed 3-4 tablets of Glyocladin under the diseased bushes. A few days later I poured it with Trichocin solution according to the instructions. The leaves have stopped wilting. New leaves at the ends of the shoots grew healthy. The fruits set and grew to normal size (photo 1).

Some gardeners also use chemicals to treat vegetable crops. But at the same time, you need to follow the instructions and strictly observe the waiting period - that is, the period during which the fruits cannot be consumed. On average it is 20-21 days.

When using biological drugs, the waiting period is 2-3 days.

3. When using biological products, use them correctly! The treatment must be repeated according to the instructions and most importantly, remember that biological products contain living organisms and require certain conditions to be met.

As soon as you spread out the Glyocladin tablets or spilled the soil with Trichocin, IMMEDIATELY mulch and water the soil. The water must be settled, without chlorine.

When using biological products, remember that the soil should not dry out. The surface should ALWAYS be moderately damp. This can only be achieved by mulching the soil with some kind of organic matter. It is best to use compost or grass clippings (you can also use weeds).

4. The best cure for all diseases is prevention.

The most important thing is a change of cultures. Many people have been growing the same crops in a greenhouse for years. As a result, diseases accumulate and affect your plants every year.

Eggplant must be planted in a new place every year. It takes a lot of nutrition out of the soil. And if you already had wilting last year, then you absolutely cannot plant these plants in their original place!

If there is no other greenhouse, plant eggplants in the ground. Early varieties of eggplant grow successfully in the Middle Zone.

Another important condition is disinfection of the soil before planting seedlings. The soil in the greenhouse is spilled with biological fungicides - Fitosporin, Alirin, Gamair, Trichocin. And after that, also do not forget to mulch the soil, otherwise the biological product will not work!

Water the eggplants only with warm water and only at the root. Cold water causes stress, and watering on leaves causes powdery mildew. Weakened plants are more likely to suffer from root rot and fusarium.

Feed your plants correctly. Eggplants are big gluttons. But manure infusion is not enough.

Fertilizing must be complex, be sure to apply phosphorus and, most importantly, potassium fertilizers (potassium monophosphate, potassium magnesium, potassium sulfate). You can also use ash (a glass in a bucket of water). Humic fertilizers work well, for example, Potassium Humate from the “Barrel and 4 Buckets” series. With such feeding, eggplants grow strong and are better able to resist disease.

Keep the soil loose, as fungal diseases are more likely to develop in dense soil, under the surface crust.

During the growth process, it is recommended to loosen the soil under the eggplants. Do not do that! You will injure the roots, and infection can easily penetrate into the wounds. To prevent the soil from caking, mulch the tree trunk, or better yet, the entire bed.

Apply biological fungicides prophylactically, that is, in advance, without waiting for the leaves to wilt, then your plants will not get sick.

Don't skimp on medications. Remember, plant diseases are not only crop losses, they are disappointments, but the garden should bring joy!

N. Petrenko, ch. editor,

March, 02 20151 8282

Perhaps some have tried to grow eggplants on their own plot. But, having failed, they gave up this activity, preferring to buy the “little blue” ones in the store. However, knowing agricultural technology and some of the subtleties of growing this crop, you can get very good yields.

Variety selection

Success in growing any gardening plants depends on the chosen variety: whether it is suitable for your area or not, how early or late production it produces, how it will be grown - open or in greenhouses, etc. If eggplant is planned to be planted in the area with a moderately warm climate, it is better to choose early-ripening varieties with medium-sized fruits. Almost throughout the entire territory of Russia, the Epic F1 variety feels good: it produces its first harvest within 2 months from the start of planting. This variety is distinguished by its high yield, evenness of fruits and resistance to many diseases.

The most popular eggplant varieties

• Black beauty - fruits of brown-violet color, smooth, up to 200 g. It is very demanding of heat: in regions where summers are not hot, it needs to be cultivated in greenhouses. Albatross is a blue-violet fruit with a short pear shape. Large-fruited - up to 450 gr. It is highly valued for its lack of bitterness. Purple miracle - the fruits are small, up to 135 grams, but are characterized by high yield.

For those who love non-standard shapes, we can recommend planting the varieties Czech Early, Fat Barin, Black Moon - their fruits are spherical or ovoid in shape. The largest fruits, weighing up to 1.5 kg, are produced by the new hybrid Clorinda. Recently, they have become especially popular white eggplants: they are practically not bitter, have fleshy pulp, almost devoid of seeds, and taste like champignons. Varieties of white eggplants: Swan, Ping Pong, Pelican, White Egg.

Soil and fertilizers

“Sinenki” are very demanding on the composition and fertility of the soil. They are suitable for loamy or sandy loamy soils. On heavy soils, they grow very poorly and produce a small harvest. Tip: you can “lighten” the soil with river sand, chopped straw or sawdust.

It is better to apply them in the fall. Adding compost and humus will also have a beneficial effect on the quality of the soil. In the spring, when digging, you need to add 300-500 grams of ash. or 50-150 gr. superphosphate per 1 sq. m.

Predecessors

Eggplant is a rather capricious plant and requires adherence to the principles of crop rotation. It is best to plant it in areas where legumes, cabbage, melons, and cucumbers grew. Somewhat worse predecessors are table root vegetables.

You cannot plant eggplants after peppers and tomatoes: moreover, at least 3-4 years must pass after growing these crops in the selected area.

Eggplants: growing, planting and care

Preparing seedlings

Since eggplants have a fairly long ripening period (90-140 days), they are grown exclusively by seedlings. Gardeners should be warned right away: forget about the old “grandmother’s” method of growing seedlings in boxes. In this way, it will not be possible to obtain strong and high-quality seedlings. Eggplants do not like transplanting, so it is better to grow them in separate plastic or peat cups and cassettes. First, you need to prepare the soil: garden soil, sand and ready-made store-bought soil are taken in equal parts.

You can add vermiculite - according to reviews from gardeners, the result is excellent. The soil needs to be moistened: if you are using unsprouted seeds, try moistening the soil in cups with snow - this method allows you to grow strong seedlings. Tip: eggplant seeds germinate very poorly.

To improve germination, you need to soak them for 24 hours in aloe juice. You can also soak them in a solution of hydrogen peroxide: 3 ml of peroxide per 100 ml of water, heat to 40 C and hold the seeds in this solution for 10 minutes. Place 1 seed in each glass.

Attention: if you use cassettes for seedlings, plant seeds of the same variety in 1 cassette. Because the germination time for different varieties is different and earlier seedlings will “clog” newly hatched eggplants of later varieties. Sowing time depends on the region: usually the end of February - the very beginning of March.

After planting the seeds, you need to cover the containers with film and put them in a warm place. The required temperature during the germination period is 25-28°C. As soon as the sprouts hatch, the film must be removed; the temperature can be lowered in the first week to 16-17°C during the day and 13-14°C at night.

Then grow the seedlings at a daytime temperature of 25-27°C and a night temperature of 13-14°C. Such a difference between day and night temperatures is necessary to prepare the seedlings for planting in open ground. Care consists of watering, light loosening and fertilizing with fluoride-containing fertilizers (for example, Crystalon is suitable). Fertilizing is carried out while watering the plants.

Problems with seedlings

• Why do eggplant seedlings turn yellow?

Young shoots are very demanding on nutrition and if there is a lack of microelements in the soil, the plant begins to “pull” useful substances from its own lower leaves. As a result, the leaves turn pale and gradually turn yellow. Urgent intervention and good feeding are needed.

Any balanced fertilizer for seedlings that is sold in stores will do. If you didn’t pay attention and the lower leaves are already severely damaged, they will fall off, but you will be able to save the plant. Usually this problem arises when growing in peat pots, when gardeners rely on their nutritional value.

Eggplants are very voracious in this regard and require constant mineral supplements. And peat alone cannot satisfy all their nutritional needs.

• Why do seedlings wither?

The problem may be either insufficient watering or waterlogging and acidification of the soil. If there is a musty smell coming from the soil, carefully remove the seedling from the pot along with a lump of earth and look at the condition of the roots.

If the roots are not white, move on to more moderate watering. Seedlings can also wither if the roots are cold. This often happens when seedlings are standing on a windowsill and cold air comes from the window.

It is heavier than warm water and spreads below, just at the level of plant roots. Place the seedlings higher - on a tray, for example, to balance the temperature at both the roots of the plants and the leaves.

• Ticks and whitefly

Sometimes seedlings are affected by mites or whiteflies. This may be due to a lack of watering and air humidity - it is in such conditions that pests reproduce best. It is necessary to treat the leaves with Aktara.

Also monitor the humidity: regularly spray young seedlings with a fine sprayer. Moreover, direct the stream to the side and upward so that large drops do not form on the leaves.

Growing eggplants in open ground

Ready seedlings are planted in a permanent place, starting from the end of May, when the time for return frosts has passed. Choose places on the site that are protected from drafts and open to the sun.

Make holes, water well, plant seedlings in the mud, compact them, mulch with peat or dry soil. The distance between plants is 30-40 cm, between rows 60 cm. If you are planting tall varieties, then make the distance between holes 50 cm.

Early ripening varieties are usually planted in open ground. At first, the seedlings need to be insulated, preferably with double film. The “blue ones” are very afraid of cold weather; at prolonged temperatures of about 10°C, the plants die. Therefore, it is very important to provide them with a warm and humid growing environment.

• Regular shallow loosening so that the roots have sufficient access to oxygen; Weeding and pest control; Regular watering - do not allow the soil to dry out, water only with warm water; Feeding: there should be three of them: the first - as the seedlings take root, the second after 20 days after the first and the third at the beginning of the fruiting period. You can feed with diluted slurry, chicken droppings and mineral fertilizers.

What not to do when growing eggplants:

• Shade and thicken the plantings - this crop is very demanding of light, prolonged cloudy weather and dense, dense planting will lead to a decrease in yield, the fruits will be small and not marketable. Overdry the plants - eggplants are very demanding of moisture, watering must be done daily. During a long dry period, the plants will begin to bush and shed their ovaries, and the fruits will take on an ugly shape. You cannot loosen the soil deeply - the root system of the “little blue ones” is located very close to the surface, so deep, inaccurate loosening will lead to damage to the roots.

This is the most convenient way to grow this crop. Simply because in the greenhouse it is possible to provide the required temperature and humidity, which is very important for the “little blue” whims. Otherwise, the growing technology is no different from open ground. Although, there are a number of diseases that affect eggplants in greenhouses.

• Gray rot: develops with very frequent watering and high humidity in early spring or late autumn, when there are sudden temperature changes. Therefore, during this period it is recommended to consider the issue of heating the greenhouse. Internal necrosis is a viral disease in which the fruits turn yellow and wither. It can be treated with special preparations or, if the disease has not yet spread, remove the affected bush. Late blight is a common disease of seedlings, it appears with strong humidity and temperature changes, affecting both the leaves and the root system. Plants die.

• Pest Control

  Most often, the “blue” crops are attacked by hordes of the Colorado potato beetle, which almost completely eat up the bushes in a matter of days. You can treat the plants with standard beetle repellents, or you can use traditional proven methods. Tip: to protect the eggplant from the Colorado potato beetle, you can sprinkle the plant with salted flour (for example, what you have left over after frying fish). Sprinkle the plant itself and onto the ground under the roots. You can scatter wet wood ash between the rows and periodically sprinkle it with water - the smell repels pests. If the eggplant is attacked by bugs, you can use the drug Prestige, diluting 1:1 and spraying the plants. That's probably all subtleties and secrets of growing such a tasty and healthy vegetable as eggplant.

Eggplant as an indicator of skill

Eggplant is a plant of the nightshade family native to India. It is considered one of the most difficult crops to grow. Eggplants are demanding on air temperature and soil fertility, do not like high humidity, and cannot tolerate shading or temperature changes.

Temperatures 5-7 degrees below optimal, or 10 degrees above, within a week lead to massive loss of ovaries on plants. Poor ventilation of the greenhouse also leads to disastrous results, as does the wrong method of watering. Anyone who knows how to grow eggplants is rightly considered an ace among gardeners.

For northern and temperate regions - only a greenhouse

One hundred and ten days is how long it takes an eggplant to go from germination to fruit ripening. Growing eggplants in open ground in our conditions means wasting time. But a polycarbonate greenhouse is a completely different matter, here we have every chance of success.

Prepare the soil in the fall

We put turf soil in the beds, or even better - earth from under the bird cherry, and humus in equal parts. Mix everything thoroughly, add a little complex fertilizer, according to the rate indicated on their packaging. You cannot grow eggplants on the soil on which they previously grew: tomatoes, potatoes, physalis, peppers.

These plants suffer from the same diseases and are affected by the same pests. In the fall, just before the frosts, in the greenhouse between the ridges we dig a trench half a meter deep and one and a half spade width. We put biofuel there - manure, compost, fallen leaves.

We cover the trench with two layers of old roofing material so that the heat does not evaporate directly to the top, but diverges to the sides, towards the beds. And add more soil on top. So far, our biofuel “reactor” is not working. We’ll tell you below how to launch it exactly at the time we need.

In the meantime, we are leaving the greenhouse until spring. Don't forget to put supports under the arches so that heavy snow does not push through the polycarbonate.

Seedlings: everyone has their own living space

Seeds begin to be prepared for planting in the third decade of February, at the same time as pepper seeds. The easiest way to prepare seeds is soaking them in melt water.

The water, although melted, should be heated to 25-27 degrees. 25-27 degrees Celsius is the optimal temperature for the development of eggplant. Now these numbers, 25-27, will accompany you until the harvest. As soon as the seeds swell and begin to sprout, plant them in seedling cups, 2-3 each to be sure. for one place.

You can buy ready-made peat cups. Or take disposable plastic ones. It is convenient to place plastic cups side by side: we pierce the bottom in the top one to drain excess water, and pour 2-3 cm of sand into the bottom one. For better germination, we cover the cups with transparent film.

After 2 weeks, shoots will appear, we leave one of the strongest ones, we pinch off the rest (and do not pull them out by the roots!). We provide the seedlings with optimal lighting; fluorescent lamps are suitable for this.

We launch the natural heating system

While the seedlings are growing, it’s time to prepare the greenhouse. We will need 0.5 kg of quicklime, we take it with us. The greenhouse is intact, the polycarbonate too, you can remove the supports.

Where we have biofuel deposited since the fall, we use a crowbar to make holes as deep as we can, every 30-40 cm. We throw quicklime into these wells and pour water. Warm-up has started.

Now you can wipe the polycarbonate on our greenhouse with a soft cloth, or wash it with warm water and soap to remove the dust accumulated over the winter. Polycarbonate should absolutely not be wiped with abrasive substances, scraped, cleaned with a hard brush, etc. The UF protection will be damaged, and the polycarbonate in this place will begin to deteriorate from the sun. We will know that the biofuel has started working when the polycarbonate fogs up from the inside. This means that seedlings have to be planted.

For permanent residence

Healthy, strong seedlings, ready for planting, should have shiny dark green leaves, a strong stem, and a height of 15-25 cm. Planting is done at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Do not bury the root collar deeper than a centimeter into the soil.

When planting, you can use the following technique: Take an old covering non-woven material. Placed on the soil in the greenhouse. In the places where the eggplants will be planted, we make a crosswise cut in the fabric, and planting is done in it.

In this way, we achieve two goals at once: we avoid the appearance of weeds between the eggplant bushes, and reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil. Eggplants love dry air and at the same time moist soil. In the greenhouse we maintain the same temperature that is comfortable for plants - 25-27 degrees. Find out how to regulate the temperature in a polycarbonate greenhouse in our article.

Do not allow moisture to settle on the polycarbonate as condensation. Depending on the variety, your eggplants can grow up to 1.5 meters tall. You should select the eggplant varieties that are suitable for you in advance. Tall eggplants are tied up.

Excess leaves (usually the lower ones) are cut off (you should not break off or tear them off, you will injure the plant). The trunk of the eggplant is formed into two stems, cutting off all the other stepsons. By following all the rules for growing eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you can achieve a harvest like this: photo. Find out how to prepare delicious and healthy dishes from eggplants.

Growing eggplants in a greenhouse

growing eggplants in a greenhouse Growing eggplants in the country, like other crops, has long become a classic for every summer resident. But, the time comes when the plants in the sunny garden just wither and dry out - autumn. It is during this period that we transfer all our worries to the greenhouse, where we take care of the plants and continue to receive tasty and fresh fruits from them. Today we decided to talk to you about eggplants and tell you how exactly this crop is grown in a greenhouse.

Content:

• Preparing soil for eggplants

  One of the most necessary processes. Any experienced gardener understands perfectly well that it is simply impossible to plant plants in the same soil for several years. The soil needs to be renewed and fertilized, given a rest, only in this case it will become fertile again and will be able to show good results. The situation with eggplants is very similar - the area for the crop should be changed. It is necessary to remove all plant debris and thoroughly water the soil several times to wash away possible fertilizer residues. Don’t forget to disinfect the soil for planting eggplants; this can be done using a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per bucket of hot water). After cultivating the soil, you need to give it a little time to dry and carefully dig it up to a bayonet depth. Find out how to cheaply and quickly make a roof for a country house

  Fertilizers for eggplants

  Eggplants are quite good at organic matter, so add manure or compost humus to the soil (half a bucket per 1 m?). To reduce the acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour to it (2 tbsp. l per 1 m?). Dolomite flour, in addition to calcium, also contains magnesium, which is necessary for the proper growth of eggplants. No less useful will be adding low-lying peat to the soil for planting eggplants, which retains moisture well. If you need to loosen the soil, you can add a small amount of sawdust or sand, and also add 1 tbsp for each meter of planting. l. magnesium sulfate and 1 glass of ash. Based on these dosages and the total area of ​​the greenhouse, you can immediately prepare the entire amount of fertilizer, which will greatly facilitate the work. If you do not have the opportunity to properly fertilize the entire bed, apply fertilizer directly to each hole, and then fertilize the eggplants during the growing season. But remember, this method has a slightly worse effect on plants. Do not forget about a complex of mineral fertilizers, which can be purchased on the market or in a specialized store. Such a complex will already be correctly balanced and all you have to do is add it to the soil. Fertilizers saturate the soil well at temperatures above +13+15 degrees Celsius, so fertilized areas can be covered with plastic film. The soil should be warm and at the time of planting eggplant, at a depth of 20 cm its temperature should be at least +15 degrees Celsius.

  Transplanting

  Before you start planting seedlings, the soil needs to be slightly prepared. It should be leveled and the holes should be marked. The distance between eggplant bushes should be at least 45 cm, between rows, about 60 cm. Each hole is spilled with a handful of ash, thoroughly mixed with planting soil, and also spilled with water, 1.5 liters per hole. Try not to damage the root system of the plants. Be sure to water the prepared seedlings several hours before planting so that the earthen ball does not fall off the roots. It is worth planting seedlings 1-2 cm deeper than they grew in the primary zone or box. Having planted the seedlings in the soil, the soil around them becomes compacted and is slightly shed with water. To prevent the formation of an earthen crust after planting, you should sprinkle the top layer with humus or peat. On the hottest days, until the seedlings have matured, they should be shaded by covering the greenhouse cover with fabric or creating arcs with shadow over the bed.

  Watering eggplants in a greenhouse

  Eggplants prefer regular watering, as they need more moisture than crops such as bell peppers. With a lack of moisture, the flowering falls off and the fruits noticeably decrease. Also remember that the culture does not like cold water. Watering should be carried out with warm water, the temperature of which is not lower than +22+23 degrees Celsius. The first watering of seedlings occurs approximately on the fifth day, then once a week. Water must penetrate into the soil to the depth of the entire root system, at least 20 cm. During the fruiting period, eggplants are watered 2 times a week, more often if the weather is hot. When watering, it is advisable not to wet the eggplant leaves; after watering, be sure to loosen the soil (after 10-12 hours).Eggplants in a greenhouse prefer high soil moisture and low air humidity. Therefore, watering occurs in the morning, then it is necessary to mulch the soil and ventilate the greenhouse. High air humidity in the greenhouse has a bad effect on the growth of eggplants and can contribute to the development of diseases.

  Plant nutrition

  Caring for eggplants in a greenhouse also involves constant feeding of the plants. They are produced 3-4 times per season, the frequency depends on the condition of the crop. The first feeding is carried out 12-20 days after planting the seedlings. This period is necessary for the plant to take root and for the root system to absorb nutrients with maximum effect. Before fruiting, eggplants are fed with microelements, mineral and complex fertilizers (Kemira or Mortar, 1 tbsp per bucket of water), during fruiting - nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers (1 tbsp. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. ammonium nitrate per bucket of water). Do not overuse organic matter, as this can negatively affect the harvest - eggplants will grow to the detriment of flowering and fruit development. Try to alternate small portions of organic matter with mineral fertilizers; this will be the best way to fertilize. From organic matter, you can use fermented grass or Biud, made from mullein. During fruiting, sprinkle the rows of eggplants with wood ash; towards the end of this period, use potassium sulfate in a small dosage (no more than 1 teaspoon per bucket of water).

  • If the eggplants show weak shoot growth, feed the plants with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content; If the eggplants grow green, use fertilizers containing potassium; If you notice poor, weak flowering of the eggplants, spray with a solution of boric acid (2 g per bucket of warm water).

  Increased soil moisture in a greenhouse, along with lower temperatures, can cause a decrease in eggplant root activity. At this point it is worth fertilizing with microelements.

  Also, do not forget to feed the eggplants with magnesium sulfate. Growing eggplants in a greenhouse is not an easy process, especially if you pay attention to feeding and schedules. But it is not at all necessary to follow them; the scheme can be violated by simply observing the plants and applying fertilizing at the right time, and not according to a clear schedule.

  Video about growing eggplants in a greenhouse

  Garter and shaping

  Staking eggplants in a greenhouse is mandatory, since the plants grow larger than in open ground and they are more fragile. Eggplants are tied to a trellis, sometimes even in several places, but this method can shade the plant, which is undesirable. Low grade eggplants that do not need to be shaped are often grown in a greenhouse.

  But if the varieties are tall, then the formation of bushes is mandatory. The side shoots on the main stem are removed, leaving only a few of the strongest ones on the bush. Below the remaining shoots, all shoots are removed from the trunk. Pinching is not used for eggplants; only limp and yellow leaves are removed from the trunk, as well as underdeveloped fruits. Towards the end of the eggplant growing season, they are pinched, leaving only 5-6 ovaries. the rest of them simply will not have time to form before the end of the season, and will simply draw nutrients onto themselves to the detriment of the rest of the fruits.

  Diseases and pests of eggplant

  The main diseases of eggplants in greenhouses are late blight and tobacco mosaic. It is possible to prevent their development with the help of special preparations, for example, “Zircon” and “Fitosporin”.

  Rotting of plants is prevented by basic ventilation of the greenhouse, which must be done regularly to reduce air humidity. Pests of eggplants in a greenhouse are spider mites, Colorado potato beetles, whiteflies and aphids. Chemicals can be used against them, but since they are well absorbed by plants, if possible, it is necessary to collect insects by hand.

  Glue traps, which are safe for humans, will also help. You can also carry out prevention throughout the season by spraying eggplants with specially designed preparations. We also recommend that you read the special article “Diseases of vegetables in greenhouses.”