If the leaves of an eggplant turn yellow, then the first thing to do is to identify the cause of such an unpleasant phenomenon. And there are many reasons why eggplant leaves turn yellow: lack of certain minerals, problems with watering, diseases and pests. Naturally, in each case the option for saving the plant will be different. Today we’ll talk about what to do if the eggplant leaves turn yellow.

Eggplant leaves turn yellow: possible reasons

Lower leaves of eggplants turn yellow

If this is the only alarming symptom, most likely we are talking about a normal biological process. Often The lower leaves of eggplant seedlings turn yellow after transplantation to a “permanent” position, this is an adequate response of the plant to a stressful situation. Eggplant directs all its forces to maintaining the top of the plant in a viable state, sacrificing the lower leaves.

Another option is that they have grown old, cannot fully cope with the functions of photosynthesis, and the plant gets rid of them. In this case, you can carefully remove the lower leaves.

Yellowing of the lower leaves is also possible in very dense plantings - since the leaves do not receive light, the plant “does not see the need for their maintenance” and gets rid of it.

It is also possible that the lower leaves of eggplants may turn yellow due to problems with the roots: pests, stagnation of moisture, root rot, etc.

Leaves turn yellow due to disease

Typically, all kinds of fungal diseases appear on eggplant leaves in the form of spots, and not the entire yellowing of the leaf blade, so diseases are easier to identify. For example, with late blight, brown spots appear on eggplant leaves with a light green border; with Alternaria - small brown spots that become necrotic over time; with cercospora - small round chlorotic spots that turn brown over time; with anthracnose - oval brown spots on eggplant leaves; With bacterial spotting, the leaves are covered with small black spots with a yellow border.

Phytophthora on eggplants
Alternaria on eggplants Cercospora blight on eggplants

However, with tracheomycosis wilts (fusarium, verticillium), which are usually found on eggplants in greenhouses, the leaves turn yellow, starting from the edge of the leaf blade, curl and dry out. This is quite similar to potassium or calcium starvation of eggplants. Pathogenic fungi cause blockage of blood vessels and release toxins, which causes toxicosis in plants. Fusarium and verticillium often become chronic, depleting eggplant and reducing its productivity.

Verticillium on eggplant

Fusarium on eggplants

To exclude the possibility of fusarium or verticillium, first feed the eggplant with potash fertilizer (read below). If it doesn’t help, remove the affected specimens (they will be of little use, but you will save healthy plants), and treat the healthy ones with benzimidazoles.

Another eggplant disease that can be confused with a lack of magnesium is mosaic (in the case of eggplants, tobacco disease is more common, but ordinary or cucumber disease is also possible). With mosaic virus eggplant leaves turn yellow in spots irregular, acute-angled shape. Initially, light, yellow-green spots appear along the leaf blades, then spread to the entire leaf, and over time they increase and become necrotic. The fruits of such crops grow ugly and underdeveloped. Viral diseases cannot be treated - the plants are removed and burned to prevent the infection from spreading.

This is what a tobacco mosaic on an eggplant looks like
And so - lack of magnesium

How do you know if an eggplant is infected with mosaic virus and not deficient in magnesium? First, the plant is treated leaf by leaf with a weak solution of magnesium nitrate or a universal microfertilizer. If after a week there are no positive changes, it means the problem is the virus.

Eggplant leaves turn yellow due to lack of microelements and macroelements

Eggplant is a rather difficult crop in terms of feeding. It is very demanding of nitrogen, quite demanding of potassium, and relatively undemanding of phosphorus.

Before you find out why do eggplant leaves turn yellow and what to do about it , let's remember how it generally needs to be fed and fertilized. 15-20 days after transplanting the seedlings permanently, they are fed with a complete complex fertilizer (2-3 tablespoons per bucket of water, 0.5 liters per bush). When the plants bloom, add organic fertilizer - either mullein (1:10), or herbal infusion (1:5), or chicken droppings (1:20). And during fruiting they rely on potassium and phosphorus fertilizers (ash, superphosphate, potassium salt).

If eggplants do not have enough macroelements, then first the lower leaves will turn yellow, and the young ones will grow defective (twisted, small, etc.); if there is a deficiency of microelements, yellowing appears on the upper leaves. Why do exotic boron, molybdenum, copper, manganese, which eggplant needs in tiny doses, have such a strong effect on the plant? The main task of microelements is the activation of certain enzymatic systems. That is, everything that is connected with the “launch” of growth, assimilation, and ovary is the work of microelements. In our soils, microelements are often found in forms that are inaccessible to plant absorption. Most often, gardeners find themselves in this situation who have decided to make do with compost, manure, ash and other “household” organic matter, which, as a rule, is poor in microelements. This is why eggplants need foliar feeding with microelements.

Nitrogen deficiency in eggplants

Light green leaves, a thin trunk, and a generally frail appearance of the plant indicate nitrogen starvation. In this case, fertilizing with urea (a tablespoon per bucket of water), as well as mullein (per bucket of water – a liter), and manure (per bucket of water – half a liter) 0.5 liters for each plant will help. And so that nitrogen deficiency in eggplant replenished faster, apply foliar fertilizing with the mentioned fertilizers on the leaf, but in a concentration 2 times higher.

Lack of nitrogen in eggplants

If a one-time fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is not enough, you can repeat it at intervals of 2 weeks. But don’t overdo it: too much nitrogen is also harmful. Plants may begin to fatten: the plant grows powerful, beautiful greenery, but is in no hurry to set and bear fruit.

Potassium deficiency in eggplants

With a lack of potassium eggplant leaves turn yellow around the edges , forming first a yellow and, over time, a shrunken border (marginal leaf burn). In this case, the leaves can bend upside down, and new ones grow small, dense, shrunken, and the stems become denser. Also, with potassium deficiency, eggplants have problems with setting and ripening fruits. This problem is solved by adding potassium sulfate, potassium humate, potassium monophosphate, or at least ash (preferably not wood ash, which contains more calcium, but herbal ash, which contains more potassium).

Potassium deficiency in eggplants

By the way, sometimes potassium deficiency, and therefore yellowing of eggplant leaves, is not associated with a potassium deficiency in the soil, but with the fact that potassium is poorly absorbed at temperatures above 35 degrees. This problem is especially relevant for greenhouses. Therefore, do not forget to ventilate greenhouses, whiten roofs, mulch the soil and do not overfeed with nitrogen.

Phosphorus deficiency in eggplants

If the eggplant leaves are directed upward, towards the stem - at an acute angle, we are talking about phosphorus deficiency. The application of any phosphorus-containing preparation - both at the root and along the leaf - will correct this situation.

Phosphorus deficiency in eggplants

Zinc deficiency in eggplants

Zinc deficiency can be confused with fungal diseases - Alternaria, Cercospora - as it manifests itself in the form of brown, grayish spots on the leaves, which become necrotic over time. Zinc deficiency in eggplants initially appears on the lower leaves, but over time it can also appear on the upper leaves. To compensate for zinc deficiency, zinc sulfate is used for leaf treatment along with phosphorus-containing fertilizers.

Micronutrient deficiency in eggplants

Micronutrient deficiencies in eggplants are manifested by various types of yellowing of the upper leaves, while macronutrient deficiencies affect the lower leaves. So, with a lack of calcium, the tips of young leaves become as if burned, and old leaves darken; if there is a lack of boron, the upper leaves of eggplants begin to lighten and curl, the color falls off, the growing points die off, and the plant begins to bush; A lack of sulfur in eggplants appears at first in the same way as a nitrogen deficiency (yellowing), but exclusively on the upper leaves.

The upper leaves of eggplant also turn yellow due to a lack of manganese, iron, and chlorine, although this happens less frequently. Let us emphasize once again that it is most convenient to compensate for the lack of microelements in eggplants by applying complex organic microfertilizer.

Finally, we note that eggplant leaves sometimes not so much turn yellow as curl. More often this is caused by a lack of moisture, sudden changes in temperature, inept, excessive pinching of eggplants, as well as problems with the root system (pests, stagnant water, root rot, etc.)

So, to summarize: eggplants, whose yellow leaves are observed in the lower part, suffer from a lack of macroelements; in the apical part – microelements; if yellow spots of all kinds are observed on the leaves, this is due to disease, and wilting of the leaves indicates problems with the root system or improper watering.

Hello. Something happened to my eggplants this year. We have already harvested the first harvest from them - two good eggplants each. The bushes are good, tall, with many flowers. And suddenly three bushes began to wither. The leaves hung like rags, the lower ones began to turn yellow and dry out. The flowers, of course, fell off without bearing fruit. I spilled potassium permanganate on all the bushes, but it didn’t help. Three good plants died. What was it, and how to protect your plants in the future?

Aliya Adasheva, Kazan

In my practice, I had to deal with wilting of eggplants, but I managed to save the plants and even get a harvest from them. The main thing is to make a diagnosis in time and apply the right drugs.

It is worrying that in the last 2-3 years there have been much more questions on this topic. The infection spreads because gardeners treat their plants incorrectly and violate agricultural practices.

The cause of eggplant wilting is fusarium. This is a disease in which the causative fungus attacks the root system. Penetrates into the plant through the soil. It spreads with the tool, and even on shoes.

Developing in the plant, the fungus clogs the blood vessels. As a result, the roots cannot absorb moisture and nutrients. Because of this, the leaves wither even in moist soil.

The first thing gardeners do when the leaves wilt is to start watering the plants frequently, as they believe that “someone has tampered with the roots.”

But overwatering only makes matters worse. Frequent watering causes the soil to become compacted and acidic, which promotes the development of fungal infections.

Watering with potassium permanganate also does not work, since potassium permanganate is a weak fungicide. To achieve the effect, the solution must be very strong, but gardeners do not do this for fear of burning the roots. As a result, potassium permanganate solution does not heal!

What to do?

COMBAT MEASURES

1. First of all, it is necessary to examine the plants more often so as not to miss the onset of the disease.

Fusarium infects many crops, including asters, zinnias, strawberries, cucumbers, and in all cases the symptoms are very similar.

At first, the leaves wither, as if there is not enough moisture. Therefore, the disease is called Fusarium wilt. The next stage - the leaves turn yellow and dry, and eventually the whole plant dries out. For all crops, the treatment is the same - watering with fungicides under the root.

Remember, fungicides are remedies for fungal diseases (Fungi in Latin - mushroom). Do not confuse with other drugs, such as insecticides.

At the first signs of leaf wilting (without waiting for them to turn yellow!) you need to apply fungicides URGENTLY. For ornamental crops you can use chemical ones - Maxim, Vitaros, Fundazol, and for vegetables only biological ones - Glyokladin, Trichocin, Fitolavin, Trichoderma veride.

2. When treating fusarium, there is no need to waste time and try different “folk remedies”. Fusarium wilt develops very quickly, and while you are experimenting, the plant may die.

On my site I used Gly-okladin and Trichocin. Noticing the first wilted leaves, I placed 3-4 tablets of Glyocladin under the diseased bushes. A few days later I poured it with Trichocin solution according to the instructions. The leaves have stopped wilting. New leaves at the ends of the shoots grew healthy. The fruits set and grew to normal size (photo 1).

Some gardeners also use chemicals to treat vegetable crops. But at the same time, you need to follow the instructions and strictly observe the waiting period - that is, the period during which the fruits cannot be consumed. On average it is 20-21 days.

When using biological preparations, the waiting period is 2-3 days.

3. When using biological products, use them correctly! The treatment must be repeated according to the instructions, and most importantly, remember that biological products contain living organisms and require certain conditions to be met.

As soon as the Glyocladin tablets are spread out or the soil is shed with Trichocin, IMMEDIATELY mulch and water the soil. Water should be settled, without chlorine.

When using biological products, remember that the soil should not dry out. The surface should ALWAYS be moderately damp. This can only be achieved by mulching the soil with some organic matter. It is best to use compost or grass clippings (you can also use weeds).

4. The best cure for all diseases is prevention.

The most important thing is a change of cultures. Many people have been growing the same crops in a greenhouse for years. As a result, diseases accumulate and affect your plants every year.

Eggplant must be planted in a new place every year. It takes a lot of nutrition out of the soil. And if you already had wilting last year, then you absolutely cannot plant these plants in their original place!

If there is no other greenhouse, plant eggplants in the ground. Early varieties of eggplant grow successfully in the Middle Zone.

Another important condition is disinfection of the soil before planting seedlings. The soil in the greenhouse is spilled with biological fungicides - Fitosporin, Alirin, Gamair, Trichocin. And after that, also do not forget to mulch the soil, otherwise the biological product will not work!

Water the eggplants only with warm water and only at the root. Cold water causes stress, and watering on leaves causes powdery mildew. Weakened plants are more likely to suffer from root rot and fusarium.

Feed your plants correctly. Eggplants are big gluttons. But manure infusion is not enough.

Fertilizing must be complex, be sure to apply phosphorus and, most importantly, potassium fertilizers (potassium monophosphate, potassium magnesium, potassium sulfate). You can also use ash (a glass in a bucket of water). Humic fertilizers work well, for example, Potassium Humate from the “Barrel and 4 Buckets” series. With such feeding, eggplants grow strong and are better able to resist disease.

Keep the soil loose, as fungal diseases are more likely to develop in dense soil, under the surface crust.

During the growth process, it is recommended to loosen the soil under the eggplants. Do not do that! You will injure the roots, and infection can easily penetrate into the wounds. To prevent the soil from caking, mulch the tree trunk, or better yet, the entire bed.

Apply biological fungicides prophylactically, that is, in advance, without waiting for the leaves to wilt, then your plants will not get sick.

Don't skimp on medications. Remember, plant diseases are not only crop losses, they are disappointments, but the garden should bring joy!

N. Petrenko, ch. editor,

March, 02 20151 8282

Perhaps some have tried to grow eggplants on their own plot. But, having failed, they gave up this activity, preferring to buy the “little blue” ones in the store. However, knowing agricultural technology and some of the subtleties of growing this crop, you can get very good yields.

Variety selection

Success in growing any gardening plants depends on the chosen variety: whether it is suitable for your area or not, how early or late production it produces, how it will be grown - open or in greenhouses, etc. If eggplant is planned to be planted in the area with a moderately warm climate, it is better to choose early-ripening varieties with medium-sized fruits. Almost throughout the entire territory of Russia, the Epic F1 variety feels good: it produces its first harvest within 2 months from the start of planting. This variety is distinguished by its high yield, evenness of fruits and resistance to many diseases.

The most popular eggplant varieties

• Black beauty - fruits of brown-violet color, smooth, up to 200 g. It is very demanding of heat: in regions where summers are not hot, it needs to be cultivated in greenhouses. Albatross is a blue-violet fruit with a short pear shape. Large-fruited - up to 450 gr. It is highly valued for its lack of bitterness. Purple miracle - the fruits are small, up to 135 grams, but are characterized by high yield.

For those who love non-standard shapes, we can recommend planting the varieties Czech Early, Fat Barin, Black Moon - their fruits are spherical or ovoid in shape. The largest fruits, weighing up to 1.5 kg, are produced by the new hybrid Clorinda. Recently, they have become especially popular white eggplants: they are practically not bitter, have fleshy pulp, almost devoid of seeds, and taste like champignons. Varieties of white eggplants: Swan, Ping Pong, Pelican, White Egg.

Soil and fertilizers

"Blue" are very demanding on the composition and fertility of the soil. They are suitable for loamy or sandy light soils. On heavy soils, they grow very poorly and produce a small harvest. Tip: you can “lighten” the soil with river sand, chopped straw or sawdust.

It is better to apply them in the fall. Adding compost and humus will also have a beneficial effect on the quality of the soil. In the spring, when digging, you need to add 300-500 grams of ash. or 50-150 gr. superphosphate per 1 sq. m.

Predecessors

Eggplant is a rather capricious plant and requires compliance with the principles of crop rotation. It is best to plant it in areas where legumes, cabbage, melons, and cucumbers grew. Somewhat worse predecessors are table root vegetables.

You can not plant eggplant after pepper and tomato: moreover, at least 3-4 years must pass after growing these crops in the selected area.

Eggplants: growing, planting and care

Preparing seedlings

Since eggplants have a fairly long ripening period (90-140 days), they are grown exclusively by seedlings. Gardeners should be warned right away: forget about the old “grandmother’s” method of growing seedlings in boxes. In this way, it will not be possible to obtain strong and high-quality seedlings. Eggplants do not like transplanting, so it is better to grow them in separate plastic or peat cups and cassettes. First, you need to prepare the soil: garden soil, sand and ready-made store-bought soil are taken in equal parts.

You can add vermiculite - according to gardeners, the result is excellent. The soil needs to be moistened: if you are using unsprouted seeds, try moistening the soil in cups with snow - this method allows you to grow strong seedlings. Tip: eggplant seeds germinate very poorly.

To improve germination, you need to soak them for 24 hours in aloe juice. You can also soak them in a solution of hydrogen peroxide: 3 ml of peroxide per 100 ml of water, heat to 40 C and hold the seeds in this solution for 10 minutes. Place 1 seed in each glass.

Attention: if you use cassettes for seedlings, plant seeds of the same variety in 1 cassette. Because the germination time for different varieties is different and earlier seedlings will “clog” newly hatched eggplants of later varieties. Sowing time depends on the region: usually the end of February - the very beginning of March.

After planting the seeds, you need to cover the containers with film and put them in a warm place. The required temperature during the germination period is 25-28°C. As soon as the sprouts hatch, the film must be removed; the temperature can be lowered in the first week to 16-17°C during the day and 13-14°C at night.

Then grow the seedlings at a daytime temperature of 25-27°C and a night temperature of 13-14°C. Such a difference between day and night temperatures is necessary to prepare the seedlings for planting in open ground. Care consists of watering, light loosening and fertilizing with fluoride-containing fertilizers (for example, Crystalon is suitable). Fertilizing is carried out while watering the plants.

Problems with seedlings

• Why do eggplant seedlings turn yellow?

Young shoots are very demanding on nutrition and if there is a lack of microelements in the soil, the plant begins to “pull” useful substances from its own lower leaves. As a result, the leaves turn pale and gradually turn yellow. Urgent intervention and good feeding are needed.

Any balanced fertilizer for seedlings that is sold in stores will do. If you didn’t pay attention and the lower leaves are already severely damaged, they will fall off, but you will be able to save the plant. Usually this problem arises when growing in peat pots, when gardeners rely on their nutritional value.

Eggplants are very voracious in this regard and require constant mineral supplements. And peat alone cannot satisfy all their nutritional needs.

• Why do seedlings wither?

The problem may be either insufficient watering or waterlogging and acidification of the soil. If there is a musty smell coming from the soil, carefully remove the seedling from the pot along with a lump of earth and look at the condition of the roots.

If the roots are not white, move on to more moderate watering. Seedlings can also wither if the roots are cold. This often happens when seedlings are standing on a windowsill and cold air comes from the window.

It is heavier than warm water and spreads below, just at the level of plant roots. Place the seedlings higher - on a tray, for example, to balance the temperature at both the roots of the plants and the leaves.

• Ticks and whitefly

Sometimes seedlings are affected by mites or whiteflies. This may be due to a lack of watering and air humidity - it is in such conditions that pests reproduce best. It is necessary to treat the leaves with Aktara.

Also monitor the humidity: regularly spray young seedlings with a fine sprayer. Moreover, direct the stream to the side and upward so that large drops do not form on the leaves.

Growing eggplants in open ground

Ready seedlings are planted in a permanent place, starting from the end of May, when the time for return frosts has passed. Choose places on the site that are protected from drafts and open to the sun.

Make holes, water well, plant seedlings in the mud, compact them, mulch with peat or dry soil. The distance between plants is 30-40 cm, between rows 60 cm. If you are planting tall varieties, then make the distance between holes 50 cm.

Early ripening varieties are usually planted in open ground. At first, the seedlings need to be insulated, preferably with double film. The “blue ones” are very afraid of cold weather; at prolonged temperatures of about 10°C, the plants die. Therefore, it is very important to provide them with a warm and humid growing environment.

• Regular shallow loosening so that the roots have sufficient access to oxygen; Weeding and pest control; Regular watering - do not allow the soil to dry out, water only with warm water; Feeding: there should be three of them: the first - as the seedlings take root, the second after 20 days after the first and the third at the beginning of the fruiting period. You can feed with diluted slurry, chicken droppings and mineral fertilizers.

What not to do when growing eggplants:

• Shade and thicken the plantings - this crop is very demanding of light, prolonged cloudy weather and dense, dense planting will lead to a decrease in yield, the fruits will be small and not marketable. Overdry the plants - eggplants are very demanding of moisture, watering must be done daily. During a long dry period, the plants will begin to bush and shed their ovaries, and the fruits will take on an ugly shape. You cannot loosen the soil deeply - the root system of the “little blue ones” is located very close to the surface, so deep, inaccurate loosening will lead to damage to the roots.

This is the most convenient way to grow this crop. Simply because in the greenhouse it is possible to provide the required temperature and humidity, which is very important for the “little blue” whims. Otherwise, the growing technology is no different from open ground. Although, there are a number of diseases that affect eggplants in greenhouses.

• Gray rot: develops with very frequent watering and high humidity in early spring or late autumn, when there are sudden temperature changes. Therefore, during this period it is recommended to consider the issue of heating the greenhouse. Internal necrosis is a viral disease in which the fruits turn yellow and wither. It can be treated with special preparations or, if the disease has not yet spread, remove the affected bush. Late blight is a common disease of seedlings, it appears with strong humidity and temperature changes, affecting both the leaves and the root system. Plants die.

• Pest Control

  Most often, the “blue” crops are attacked by hordes of the Colorado potato beetle, which almost completely eat up the bushes in a matter of days. You can treat the plants with standard beetle repellents, or you can use traditional proven methods. Tip: to protect the eggplant from the Colorado potato beetle, you can sprinkle the plant with salted flour (for example, what you have left over after frying fish). Sprinkle the plant itself and onto the ground under the roots. You can scatter wet wood ash between the rows and periodically sprinkle it with water - the smell repels pests. If the eggplant is attacked by bugs, you can use the drug Prestige, diluting 1:1 and spraying the plants. That's probably all subtleties and secrets of growing such a tasty and healthy vegetable as eggplant.

Eggplant as an indicator of skill

Eggplant is a plant of the nightshade family native to India. It is considered one of the most difficult crops to grow. Eggplants are demanding on air temperature and soil fertility, do not like high humidity, and cannot tolerate shading or temperature changes.

Temperatures 5-7 degrees below optimal, or 10 degrees above, within a week lead to massive loss of ovaries on plants. Poor ventilation of the greenhouse also leads to disastrous results, as does the wrong method of watering. Anyone who knows how to grow eggplants is rightly considered an ace among gardeners.

For northern and temperate regions - only a greenhouse

One hundred and ten days is how long it takes an eggplant to go from germination to fruit ripening. Growing eggplants in open ground in our conditions means wasting time. But a polycarbonate greenhouse is a completely different matter, here we have every chance of success.

Prepare the soil in the fall

We lay sod land in the beds, and even better - the ground from under the bird cherry, and humus in equal parts. We mix everything thoroughly, add some complex fertilizers, according to the rate indicated on their packaging. Eggplants cannot be grown on the soil on which they have grown before: tomatoes, potatoes, physalis, peppers.

These plants suffer from the same diseases and are affected by the same pests. In autumn, just before the frost, in the greenhouse between the ridges we dig a trench half a meter deep and one and a half spade bayonet wide. We put biofuel there - manure, compost, fallen leaves.

We cover the trench with two layers of old roofing material so that the heat does not evaporate directly to the top, but diverges to the sides, towards the beds. And add more soil on top. So far, our biofuel “reactor” is not working. We’ll tell you below how to launch it exactly at the time we need.

In the meantime, we are leaving the greenhouse until spring. Don't forget to put supports under the arches so that heavy snow does not push through the polycarbonate.

Seedlings: everyone has their own living space

Seeds begin to be prepared for planting in the third decade of February, at the same time as pepper seeds. The easiest way to prepare seeds is soaking them in melt water.

The water, although melted, should be heated to 25-27 degrees. 25-27 degrees Celsius is the optimal temperature for the development of eggplant. Now these numbers, 25-27, will accompany you until the harvest. As soon as the seeds swell and begin to sprout, plant them in seedling cups, 2-3 each to be sure. for one place.

You can buy ready-made peat cups. Or take disposable plastic ones. It is convenient to place plastic cups side by side: we pierce the bottom in the top one to drain excess water, and pour 2-3 cm of sand into the bottom one. For better germination, we cover the cups with transparent film.

After 2 weeks, shoots will appear, we leave one of the strongest ones, we pinch off the rest (and do not pull them out by the roots!). We provide the seedlings with optimal lighting; fluorescent lamps are suitable for this.

We launch the natural heating system

While the seedlings are growing, it’s time to prepare the greenhouse. We will need 0.5 kg of quicklime, we take it with us. The greenhouse is intact, the polycarbonate too, you can remove the supports.

Where we have biofuel deposited since the fall, we use a crowbar to make holes as deep as we can, every 30-40 cm. We throw quicklime into these wells and pour water. Warm-up has started.

Now you can wipe the polycarbonate on our greenhouse with a soft cloth, or wash it with warm water and soap to remove the dust accumulated over the winter. Polycarbonate should absolutely not be wiped with abrasive substances, scraped, cleaned with a hard brush, etc. The UF protection will be damaged, and the polycarbonate in this place will begin to deteriorate from the sun. We will know that the biofuel has started working when the polycarbonate fogs up from the inside. This means that seedlings have to be planted.

For permanent residence

Healthy, strong seedlings, ready for planting, should have shiny dark green leaves, a strong stem, and a height of 15-25 cm. Planting is done at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Do not bury the root collar deeper than a centimeter into the soil.

When planting, you can use the following technique: Take an old covering non-woven material. Placed on the soil in the greenhouse. In the places where the eggplants will be planted, we make a crosswise cut in the fabric, and planting is done in it.

In this way, we achieve two goals at once: we avoid the appearance of weeds between the eggplant bushes, and reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil. Eggplants love dry air and at the same time moist soil. In the greenhouse we maintain the same temperature that is comfortable for plants - 25-27 degrees. Find out how to regulate the temperature in a polycarbonate greenhouse in our article.

Do not allow moisture to settle on the polycarbonate as condensation. Depending on the variety, your eggplants can grow up to 1.5 meters tall. You should select the eggplant varieties that are suitable for you in advance. Tall eggplants are tied up.

Excess leaves (usually the lower ones) are cut off (you should not break off or tear them off, you will injure the plant). The trunk of the eggplant is formed into two stems, cutting off all the other stepsons. By following all the rules for growing eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you can achieve a harvest like this: photo. Find out how to prepare delicious and healthy dishes from eggplants.

Growing eggplants in a greenhouse

growing eggplants in a greenhouse Growing eggplants in the country, like other crops, has long become a classic for every summer resident. But, the time comes when the plants in the sunny garden just wither and dry out - autumn. It is during this period that we transfer all our worries to the greenhouse, where we take care of the plants and continue to receive tasty and fresh fruits from them. Today we decided to talk to you about eggplants and tell you how exactly this crop is grown in a greenhouse.

Content:

• Preparing soil for eggplants

  One of the most necessary processes. Any experienced dacha worker is well aware that it is simply impossible to plant plants in the same soil for several years. The soil needs to be updated and fertilized, let it rest, only in this case it will again become fertile and be able to show a good result. With eggplant, the situation is very similar - the plot for cultivation should be changed. It is necessary to remove all plant debris and thoroughly shed the soil several times to wash off possible fertilizer residues from it. Don’t forget to disinfect the soil for planting eggplants; this can be done using a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per bucket of hot water). After cultivating the soil, you need to give it a little time to dry and carefully dig it up to a bayonet depth. Find out how to cheaply and quickly make a roof for a country house

  Fertilizers for eggplants

  Eggplants are quite good at organic matter, so add manure or compost humus to the soil (half a bucket per 1 m?). To reduce the acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour to it (2 tbsp. l per 1 m?). Dolomite flour, in addition to calcium, also contains magnesium, which is necessary for the proper growth of eggplants. No less useful will be adding low-lying peat to the soil for planting eggplants, which retains moisture well. If you need to loosen the soil, you can add a small amount of sawdust or sand, and also add 1 tbsp for each meter of planting. l. magnesium sulfate and 1 glass of ash. Based on these dosages and the total area of ​​the greenhouse, you can immediately prepare the entire amount of fertilizer, which will greatly facilitate the work. If you do not have the opportunity to properly fertilize the entire bed, apply fertilizer directly to each hole, and then fertilize the eggplants during the growing season. But remember, this method has a slightly worse effect on plants. Do not forget about a complex of mineral fertilizers, which can be purchased on the market or in a specialized store. Such a complex will already be correctly balanced and all you have to do is add it to the soil. Fertilizers saturate the soil well at temperatures above +13+15 degrees Celsius, so fertilized areas can be covered with plastic film. The soil should be warm and at the time of planting eggplant, at a depth of 20 cm its temperature should be at least +15 degrees Celsius.

  Transplanting

  Before you start planting seedlings, the soil needs to be slightly prepared. It should be leveled and the holes should be marked. The distance between eggplant bushes should be at least 45 cm, between rows, about 60 cm. Each hole is spilled with a handful of ash, thoroughly mixed with planting soil, and also spilled with water, 1.5 liters per hole. Try not to damage the root system of the plants. Be sure to water the prepared seedlings several hours before planting so that the earthen ball does not fall off the roots. It is worth planting seedlings 1-2 cm deeper than they grew in the primary zone or box. Having planted the seedlings in the soil, the soil around them becomes compacted and is slightly shed with water. To prevent the formation of an earthen crust after planting, you should sprinkle the top layer with humus or peat. On the hottest days, until the seedlings have matured, they should be shaded by covering the greenhouse cover with fabric or creating arcs with shadow over the bed.

  Watering eggplants in a greenhouse

  Eggplants prefer regular watering, as they need more moisture than crops such as bell peppers. With a lack of moisture, the flowering falls off and the fruits noticeably decrease. Also remember that the culture does not like cold water. Watering should be carried out with warm water, the temperature of which is not lower than +22+23 degrees Celsius. The first watering of seedlings occurs approximately on the fifth day, then once a week. Water must penetrate into the soil to the depth of the entire root system, at least 20 cm. During the fruiting period, eggplants are watered 2 times a week, more often if the weather is hot. When watering, it is advisable not to wet the eggplant leaves; after watering, be sure to loosen the soil (after 10-12 hours).Eggplants in a greenhouse prefer high soil moisture and low air humidity. Therefore, watering occurs in the morning, then it is necessary to mulch the soil and ventilate the greenhouse. High air humidity in the greenhouse has a bad effect on the growth of eggplants and can contribute to the development of diseases.

  Plant nutrition

  Caring for eggplants in a greenhouse also involves constant feeding of the plants. They are produced 3-4 times per season, the frequency depends on the condition of the crop. The first feeding is carried out 12-20 days after planting the seedlings. Such a period is necessary in order for the plant to take root, and the root system can absorb nutrients with maximum effect. Before fruiting, eggplants are fed with microelements, mineral and complex fertilizers (Kemira or Mortar, 1 tablespoon per bucket of water), during fruiting - nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers (1 tbsp superphosphate and 1 tbsp ammonium nitrate per bucket of water). Do not abuse organic matter, as this can negatively affect the crop - eggplant will grow to the detriment of flowering and fruit development. Try to alternate small portions of organic matter with mineral fertilizers, this will be the best way to feed. From organics, you can use fermented grass or Biud, made on the basis of mullein. During fruiting, sprinkle rows of eggplants with wood ash, closer to the end of this period, use potassium sulfate in a small dosage (no more than 1 tsp per bucket of water).

  • If eggplants show weak shoot growth, feed the plants with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content; If eggplants go into green mass, use fertilizers containing potassium; If you notice poor, weak flowering of eggplants, spray with a solution of boric acid (2 g per bucket of warm water).

  Increased soil moisture in the greenhouse, along with low temperatures, can cause a decrease in eggplant root activity. At this point, it is worth fertilizing with microelements.

  Also, don't forget to feed the eggplants with magnesium sulfate. Growing eggplants in a greenhouse is not an easy process, especially if you pay attention to top dressing and schedules. But, it is not at all necessary to follow them, the scheme can be violated by simply observing the plants and applying top dressing at the right time, and not according to a clear schedule.

  Video about growing eggplants in a greenhouse

  Garter and shaping

  Garter eggplant in the greenhouse is required, as the plants grow larger than in the open field and they are more fragile. Eggplants are tied to a trellis, sometimes even in several places, but this method can shade the plant, which is undesirable. Often low-grade eggplants are grown in a greenhouse that do not need to be shaped.

  But if the varieties are tall, then the formation of bushes is mandatory. The side shoots on the main stem are removed, leaving only a few of the strongest ones on the bush. Below the remaining shoots, all shoots are removed from the trunk. Pinching is not used for eggplants; only limp and yellow leaves are removed from the trunk, as well as underdeveloped fruits. Towards the end of the eggplant growing season, they are pinched, leaving only 5-6 ovaries. the rest of them simply will not have time to form before the end of the season, and will simply draw nutrients onto themselves to the detriment of the rest of the fruits.

  Diseases and pests of eggplant

  The main diseases of eggplants in greenhouses are late blight and tobacco mosaic. It is possible to prevent their development with the help of special preparations, for example, “Zircon” and “Fitosporin”.

  Rotting of plants is prevented by basic ventilation of the greenhouse, which must be done regularly to reduce air humidity. Pests of eggplants in a greenhouse are spider mites, Colorado potato beetles, whiteflies and aphids. Chemicals can be used against them, but since they are well absorbed by plants, if possible, it is necessary to collect insects by hand.

  Glue traps, which are safe for humans, will also help. You can also carry out prevention throughout the season by spraying eggplants with specially designed preparations. We also recommend that you read the special article “Diseases of vegetables in greenhouses.”

06 06.18

Why do eggplant leaves turn yellow and wither? Eliminating the causes!

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Eggplant is a very capricious and delicate vegetable that loves a lot of attention and care. Many gardeners try to grow it, but they often see an unpleasant picture: for some reason the seedlings suddenly begin to weaken, turn pale, droop and finally wither. Very young shoots can also begin to dry for no apparent reason. According to agronomists, in this case, in order to understand why this is happening, you will need to carefully examine your garden bed and figure out what is wrong with it. This may be the result of several factors.

Eggplant is a southern plant and needs sufficient warmth and sunlight. This is a prerequisite for normal growth and development. In order for fruits to appear, in addition to suitable weather, it needs fertilizing, protection from pests and diseases.

Lack of mineral elements

One of the reasons for the death of seedlings may be the lack of substances necessary for plants in the soil. If there are not enough nitrogenous compounds, then the leaves of the seedlings begin to dry. And although such a picture is not uncommon in garden plots, the owners do not always pay attention to it in time. Nitrogen contributes to the uniform distribution of trace elements necessary for vital activity from the soil throughout the plant.

When the lower leaves begin to turn yellow, one can assume a lack of substances such as potassium, iron and copper. If such a sign is present, the application of complex fertilizer will be required.

If the reason for the weakening of the seedlings is the lack of essential minerals, then after a while it will again become green and noticeably stronger.

Excess moisture

Excess water can also lead to weakened seedlings. In case of flooding, you should almost completely stop watering them, because bacteria and fungi multiply very quickly in acidic water. It is recommended to change the soil.

Of course, eggplant seedlings can die if there is a lack of moisture. The leaves become thinner, wither, droop and dry out. However, their color does not change. If the soil is very dry, it is necessary to water it.

Sun rays

Blue ones, of course, are a southern plant. However, it does not tolerate excessive prolonged exposure to rays. They destroy chlorophyll and destroy seedlings. Noticeable yellow increasing specks form on the leaves, especially on the side that faces the sun. In the open sun, eggplants grow poorly and begin to dry out quickly. For those who grow them on windows, advice: during solar activity, the shoots should be covered. If possible, adult bushes should be protected from scorching rays.

Unsuitable temperature

Another reason for blue leaves drying out can be cold soil. This is not uncommon in cool regions with unstable weather. If the water is not heated by the soil to a suitable temperature, the process of its flow to the vegetative organs of the plant may be disrupted even with abundant watering. For eggplant, a comfortable temperature at night is at least 13 ° C, and during the day - about 23-24 ° C. It is best to grow a vegetable in a greenhouse. They should be watered with heated and settled water.

Pests

However, they still try to grow it in their garden, encountering problems with wilting, curling and damage to the vegetable. In this article, you will learn why leaves turn yellow, wither or become deformed, and also become familiar with the reasons for the slow growth of seedlings and the appearance of white spots on vegetables.

Eggplant seedlings do not grow

After the pick transplanting eggplant seedlings from a common box into individual pots, a problem may arise due to which the leaves begin to wither.

This is caused by damage to the roots during transplantation. In this case, the drug will save you. But before carrying out the procedure, inspect the roots. If they turn brown, it is better to transplant the eggplant into a large container and add the drug. They are capricious about the wind, even the lightest. Therefore, it is better to keep seedlings away from windows. If there is no such place, then for the time of ventilation it is better to move the box with vegetables to another warm place.

On forums you can often come across such a question as “ Why do eggplants fall?". It is the wind that causes this problem. Therefore, before planting in open ground, it should be hardened off. During this period, do not forget about, which will strengthen the seedlings for future “living” on the street. It is better to use , and .

Important! Add fertilizers according to dosage and instructions.

Causes of wilting

When growing vegetables in open ground, gardeners encounter the following problem: wilting eggplant leaves. This happens mainly during the day in sunlight, and in the morning they are restored.

Reasons for this problem some:

1. Waterlogging of the soil from excessive, resulting in souring. In this case, you will smell a musty smell near the box. Get rid of this problem easily- just transfer the eggplants and add soil to new large pots. Frequent watering should be avoided;
2. Temperature difference. Cold air enters from the cracks of window frames or from an open window. At this time, the sun's rays hit the leaves and evaporate moisture. There is a difference in temperature. You can solve this problem as follows - raise the pots with seedlings to 20 cm above using a bowl;
3. Lack of air for the root system. The growing seedlings are very crowded in the box, so oxygen does not reach the roots. This can be corrected by loosening the top layer of soil and adding drainage holes;
4. Hypothermia. During hardening, eggplants may wilt. Therefore, before hardening, the plants need to be watered with warm water;
5. Blackleg. This disease occurs due to excess moisture. Leaves wither, and dark spots appear on the stems. Gradually, the seedlings die. Affected shoots should be removed, and healthy ones should be sprinkled with ash to draw out excess water. After that, you can make a means of "Previkura".

Did you know? When eating eggplant, you can get rid of nicotine addiction.

If there are none, then the spots on the leaves and stems - these are burns from a lamp or sun. It is enough to simply move the plant away from the lamp or shade the shoots from sunlight using tulle.
Spots on the leaves may appear due to an excess of fertilizers, especially potassium-calcium nitrate. You can get rid of this problem by using a weak solution of potassium permanganate and treating the leaves with a mixture and citric acid.

Why do leaves curl

Leaves can be deformed for various reasons:

Eggplant loves water, so due to lack of water their leaves may curl. In this regard, it is recommended to water the plants 3 times a week with settled water at room temperature. You should also periodically check the top layer of soil. If it's dry - water the seedlings.
Bad light also leads to deformation of seedling leaves. Therefore, you should make a daylight plan. The seedlings should stand in the sun for up to 12 hours, after which they must be sent to a dark place.

Mineral deficiency affects . This condition is caused by a lack of nitrogen, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. You can replenish the supply of minerals with fertilizers. The main thing is not to overdo it.

Soil salinity. This problem occurs when there is an excess of fertilizers. The plant begins to wither, and the leaves curl and dry out. To get rid of this problem, just rinse the soil with clean water.

Did you know? Eggplant juice helps get rid of toothache and bleeding gums.

Yellowing of eggplants

Seedlings collect nutrients from the soil that are necessary for growth and development. However, many beginners do not know why eggplants turn yellow.
This happens because vegetables need a microelement such as molybdenum. You can replenish the supply using the Sudarushka fertilizer for nightshade crops. Fertilizing will have a good effect on the seedlings and the fruits will stop turning yellow.