Country work at the end of April. April gardening calendar

Spring is coming with increasing speed, in April, gardeners and gardeners will have a lot of work. To help novice gardeners plan these works correctly, this article was written. We hope that it will be of interest to both gardeners, and gardeners, and amateur flower growers.

1. Work in the garden in April.
2. April worries of flower growers.

What work should be done in April in the garden

Your garden: works of the month

April work in the country, start with deep loosening of the soil. At the same time, apply fertilizers under fruit and berry crops: nitrogen, phosphorus-potassium and organic.

Heavily compacted clay areas will have to be dug to a depth of 10-15 cm. If the melt water lingers in the garden and the soil is too wet, dig shallow grooves to drain the water.

In April, dacha subbotniks are traditionally held, and work is carried out to clean up the garbage accumulated over the winter.

Release the boles from the winter strapping, unwind the young trees. Clean trunks and skeletal branches of dead bark. Finish pruning the crowns of fruit trees. Cut out the growth. Cover wounds and large cuts with garden pitch.

Pay attention to berry bushes

Spend in April the final pruning of berry bushes. Pluck out enlarged currant buds inhabited by mites.

In mid-April, blackcurrants are propagated with lignified annual cuttings. A cutting 16-18 cm long is cut at the bottom under the kidney itself, at the top - 1-1.5 cm above the kidney. The cuttings are planted in loose, well-prepared soil, obliquely, leaving 1 bud above the ground. Watering, mulching.

In autumn, young cuttings are cut to a height of 10-15 cm, and in the fall of the following year they are planted in a permanent place.

Cuttings of red and white currants are cut and planted in early September. Gooseberries are easier to propagate by layering.

Start caring for strawberries by cleaning the plantation from covering materials, last year's leaves, and extra whiskers.

Try to loosen the aisles early to a depth of 4-5 cm, correct the bushes. Strawberries are very responsive to early loosening. Feed strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers.

Spray abiga-peak fungicide (50 g) with the addition of Novosil (2 ml) per 10 liters of water.

Cut raspberries into well-developed buds. Loosen the soil and fertilize with organic matter mixed with complex mineral fertilizers. Mulch the aisles with compost, humus with a layer of 4-5 cm.

Planting seedlings in April

In April, plant fruit trees, if you did not do it in the fall. Choose 1-2-year-old seedlings, with a good root system, the buds should not yet bloom.

Before planting, soak the seedlings to restore the turgor of the root system, make a clay mash. Water abundantly after planting, mulch the hole with organic matter.

Make a crown pruning of the seedling to restore the connection between the roots and the future crown. If there are lateral branches, cut off one-third of the entire aerial part to the outer kidney.

Shorten the central conductor 20-30 cm above the level of skeletal branches. On a trunk (40-50 cm), blind all the kidneys.

Be sure to treat the garden from diseases and pests in April

Early spring is an important period for protecting the garden from pests and diseases. The apple flower beetle wakes up first - already during the swelling of the kidneys. He is still a little active, cannot fly and climbs into the crown along the stem. To delay him, put trapping belts on the stems, best of all glue.

How to use trap belts

Clean the area of ​​​​the trunk on which the belt is applied from dead bark so that there are no passages for insects under the belt. Make a belt from thick paper or soft cardboard, burlap and spread it with caterpillar glue.

You can make a belt from old cotton wool, loosening it a little: insects get stuck in it. To protect from rain, cover the belt with a polyethylene visor. If there is no caterpillar glue, you can treat the belt with a chemical preparation.

Apply a belt in the middle or upper part of the trunk, or you can put two.

Late with the belt - shake off the pests!

When the buds begin to bloom, it will be too late to impose belts. All wintered beetles will already have time to climb into the crown. It remains only to shake them off on a litter early in the morning, when the air temperature is not higher than 10 degrees.

Before pushing the buds, spend 3-4 shaking. But this is only possible for those gardeners who come to the dacha not only on weekends. The rest will have to use chemical means of protection.

At the beginning of bud break (the “green cone” phase), larvae of aphids, suckers, caterpillars of leafworms, winter moths, cherry moths, weevils, pipeworms and other pests gather on the buds.

Chemical pest and disease control

In April, trees and berry bushes can be sprayed with fufanon or a spark, or kemifos (10 ml per 10 liters of water), or alatar (5 ml). Treat currants against red gall aphids and diseases with kinmix (2.5 ml) + topaz (2 ml).

If the trees in your garden were affected by scab, moniliosis, cluster sporiosis (cherries, plums, apricots), spray very effective at this time with a 3% Bordeaux mixture (300 g copper sulphate + 400 g lime per 10 liters of water).

On open leaves, use only 1% Bordeaux mixture. Instead, other fungicides can be used on the leaves - chorus, scoring, gamair, raek.

In the third decade of April, spray raspberries against aphids, moths and other pests with Fufanon (10 ml) with the addition of estrasol (10 ml) or Novosil (3 ml).

In the second decade of April, spray peaches against moniliosis and leaf curl over the “green cone” with abiga-peak (40 g per 10 l of water).

At the end of the month, before flowering, spray pome crops with a biostimulator (Novosil or extrasol) to increase resistance to adverse conditions (frosts, etc.).

To improve the keeping quality of fruits and their resistance to rot, carry out foliar top dressing with a solution of calcium nitrate (50 g) with the addition of extrasol

What work awaits gardeners in April

Vegetable garden: work of the month

Preparing an early harvest

The sooner you start the gardening season, the more you will do in the spring, the richer the harvest you will get. Many summer residents after winter come to the site for the first time in April. Naturally, the first thing we do is inspect the beds: like garlic, onion sets planted in late autumn overwintered.

If for the winter we threw beds with these crops with leaves, grass, we remove everything so that the soil warms up faster, we loosen it, we apply nitrogen fertilizers (a tablespoon of urea per sq. M).

If there are heads of garlic left at home after the winter, we plant them as early as possible. It does not make sense to store further, and in the ground the teeth will form large single-toothed bulbs, which will fit both in the kitchen and for winter planting. We plant in April and onion sets.

We clean the areas where perennials grow from plant debris (batun onion, chives, asparagus, rhubarb), loosen the soil.

We cover the beds with foil

If at the beginning of April it is not warm enough, you can cover the beds with a film or non-woven material on arcs - we will get the first greenery faster. It is better to use a new film: through it the sun will warm the soil faster. But if the old film is still strong, we wash it properly. In warm weather, we remove the shelter.

In April, it is necessary to unwind rhubarb in the garden, we feed it with complex mineral fertilizer for spring application.

If there is a desire to plant a bush, we take divisions from the periphery of the bush. There, the buds are stronger and, therefore, will give life to more productive plants. Yes, and they shoot later.

In the same way, you can do with an overgrown lovage bush.

Sorrel can be fed with a weak solution of nitrogen fertilizers (0.5 teaspoon of urea or ammonium nitrate per sq. M).

If the sorrel grows well, then we do not feed it in order to protect ourselves from nitrates. Leaves that have grown to 10 cm can already be cut or plucked.

If the sorrel bed is more than one year old, in April it's time to sow it in another place - for a replacement. At the beginning of summer, we will harvest leaves from young plants, and dig up the old bed.

Cold-resistant plants should be sown in April

We do not postpone the sowing of other cold-resistant crops for May:

• lettuce
• spinach
• dill
• parsley
• carrots
• parsnips
• chard
• arugula
• Japanese cabbage
• radish

While it is not hot, in the soil moistened with snow and rain water, they are friendlier and will sprout faster.

Polka dots. Don't forget to sow brain peas in April. It’s hard to find a better treat at the beginning of summer than sweet peas for kids. Peas sown in May sprout worse, and finish blooming and fruiting faster.

With sowing seeds for seedlings in beds covered with foil, it is better not to rush. Let the weed seeds germinate first. On beds covered with foil, weeds begin to sprout after 2-3 days. By loosening the soil, we will greatly facilitate the life of garden plants, which we will sow for seedlings, for an early harvest.

Cabbage. In mid-April (weather permitting), we plant seedlings of all kinds of cabbage in the beds - white cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi, Beijing, Brussels sprouts. Lettuce seedlings will not be afraid of temporary cold snaps. In case of a sharp cold snap, these beds can always be found with something to cover.

Asparagus. We plant a bed with asparagus high (by 20-25 cm) with earth or a mixture of earth and compost, humus to get bleached shoots. You can just add humus, compost, sawdust.

We level the surface of the embankment, lightly tamp it down in order to notice the shoots breaking through the soil layer in time. Already in April, you can cook asparagus salad, scrambled eggs or cook soup. Children enjoy eating fresh asparagus shoots, comparing their taste with green peas.

We plant potatoes

We do not postpone the planting of potato tubers. If the weather is warm, you should not wait until the tubers laid out for germination give sprouts and roots at home: it is better to identify them in a permanent place - in the garden.

Small areas of potato can be covered with foil or non-woven material: the potatoes will rise faster. The 1-2 weeks "saved" in the spring will have a positive effect not only on the timing, but also on the quality and quantity of the crop.

Before planting, we discard tubers with rot spots, filamentous sprouts. We do not plant potatoes in the areas that he occupied in previous years, and next to the beds allocated for planting tomatoes.

Sow herbs

At the end of the month, you can sow spicy herbs on the beds:

• basil
• lemon balm
• thyme
• snakehead
• marjoram
• hyssop.

They will take up little space, but they will bring enormous benefits: both to the plants on the site, protecting them from pests, and to us, giving a unique taste and aroma to drinks, meat and fish dishes, marinades and pickles.

After sowing, it is advisable to cover the beds with non-woven material, paper, in order to retain moisture in the soil until germination. We use the film for these purposes only if we visit the country house every day and have the opportunity to remove it in case of a sharp warming.

Our spring is unpredictable, and heat can happen in April: under the film, tender shoots will burn out in a matter of minutes. We can't even find traces of them.

Don't forget about pests

In April, it is already necessary to take measures to protect garden plants. Radish, cabbage, watercress, mustard can be harmed by cruciferous flea. We dust the crops with sifted wood ash, install glue traps. Loosening the soil and the same wood ash will help against the cruciferous fly.

Some summer residents, in order to protect cabbage, radish from pests, grow them under a thin non-woven material on arcs, pressing it tightly to the soil.

We take care of the soil

In an effort to sow and plant faster, let's not forget to walk with a rake through the beds dug up since autumn. If this is not done while the soil is wet, then several times more effort will have to be expended to level the beds, and the beneficial spring moisture will be irretrievably lost.

The soil ready for cultivation does not stick to the rake, but crumbles without forming large lumps. In low, shaded places, we cultivate the soil last, let it dry so as not to compact.

We remove all plant debris from the site left after the last season, and lay it in layers in a compost pile, pouring each layer with soil or humus, compost. If we regularly moisten the pile, the compost will ripen by autumn.

In early April, it is still possible to sow with fast-growing green manure (mustard, phacelia) beds set aside for planting seedlings of nightshade crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants).

Fight weeds

When preparing the beds for planting, we carefully select the rhizomes of wheatgrass, thistle, field bindweed and other perennial weeds from the soil. In a week we will return to these beds to pull out the weeds that have appeared from the ground.

Couch grass is persistent in its desire to develop all the new beds of the garden, but we will be more persistent than him, and we will wipe out couch grass, thistle without the help of herbicides.

What work should be done in April in greenhouses

In early April, the greenhouse should be ready for planting seedlings of tomatoes or cucumbers. If the greenhouse is film, it is better to cover it with a new film, if it is glass, wash the glass thoroughly. We fertilize the soil with organic matter (up to a bucket of compost or humus) or complex fertilizers for spring application (up to two tablespoons per sq. M).

What to plant in a greenhouse

Radish. As an intermediate crop, early varieties of radish can be sown. Although it is cold-resistant, it will quickly form root crops under the film. We immediately try to sow the seeds at the right distance from each other in order to provide the plants with sufficient illumination and feeding area even without thinning.

After 10-15 cm from each other, we make sowing grooves, spill them with hot water and lay out the seeds after 3-4 cm from each other. If we doubt the quality of the seeds (old, frail in appearance), we sow more often - after 1-2 cm,

If the radish sprouts densely, you will have to thin out, otherwise we will not harvest, but admire the flowering of the radish. The seeding depth is about 1.5 cm.

We do not open the greenhouse until the shoots appear: the warmer, the faster the radish will rise. But after germination, the temperature in the greenhouse will have to be controlled by constant ventilation: otherwise, the radish will develop powerful tops, but frail root crops.

During the formation of root crops for radishes, regular watering is very important: the soil should be constantly moderately moist. Interruptions in watering give rise to defects in root crops: they crack.

Dill, garlic, onion. You can sparsely scatter dill seeds in the greenhouse, plant chives and onions in the aisles of future beds. We will not completely remove these crops from the greenhouse even after cucumbers or tomatoes grow. They will help maintain a healthy microclimate in the greenhouse.

Spinach. Spinach is considered a good neighbor and predecessor of most vegetable crops. It can also be sown as an intermediate crop, not only in open beds, but also in a greenhouse. And the sooner the better.

April, with its still not very long daylight hours, is a great time to get vitamin leaves.

To determine the timing of sowing various crops, use the "blooming tips":

• The first crocuses (yellow) have blossomed - you can sow chives, leeks, and after a few days other cold-resistant crops.
• The birch has turned green in the sun - it's time to plant potato tubers for summer consumption, onion sets.
• The flowering of early daffodils will tell you that you can already sow lettuce, plant cabbage seedlings in the beds, sow beets.
• The lilac blossomed violently - you can sow early cucumbers.
• Buds on peonies formed and became clearly visible, viburnum blossomed - the soil warmed up enough for sowing late cucumbers, corn, melons.

April work of flower growers

Your flower garden: work of the month.

The second month of spring is not without reason considered the most time-consuming among summer residents, because the plan for working in the garden and in the garden in April becomes noticeably wider and more complicated. This month, it is important to finally think over the list of future plantings, determine the places on the site for the planned crops and, of course, take care of your favorite dacha. What activities does the calendar of work at the dacha in April provide for, and what needs to be started to be implemented now?

The main work in the country in April

In anticipation of the upcoming summer season, gardeners and gardeners draw up their own individual program of events, which covers the main work at their summer cottage in April. Typically, such a program plan includes such tasks and goals as:

• 1. Tillage and prepare it for future crops.
• 2. Prevention of diseases in healthy trees and shrubs, as well as restoration and treatment of garden plantings that have suffered from frost, wind, sunburn, pests and diseases during the winter.
• 3. Preparation of planting material for the garden, vegetable garden and flower garden.
• 4. Plant transplantation.
• 5. Reproduction of berry and fruit crops.
• 6. The fight against diseases and pests of the garden, vegetable garden and flower garden.

In addition to these activities, in April they continue to purchase new equipment and covering material, work in wall-mounted greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouse facilities that stand separately on the site - thus making up for everything that was supposed to be done according to the work plan at the dacha in March.

Garden work in April

One of the most important and time-consuming work in the garden in April is tillage and soil preparation. In many ways, the health and comfort of garden plantings, their protection from pests and disease vectors depend on it in the future.

This paragraph usually provides for the implementation of procedures such as:

• - digging of thawed and slightly dried-up earth (in the old days, the time favorable for digging was determined as follows: they squeezed a lump of earth in a fist and if it crumbled into large pieces on an open palm, they set to work);
• - tillage from pathogens and pests (often for these purposes, places for future plantings are shed with a hot solution of potassium permanganate);
• - application of organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil (if this procedure was not carried out in the fall).

If fertilizers were applied to the soil in advance, then they try not to do the spring digging too deep. Light soils are dug up in spring to a shallower depth than in autumn. Heavy clay soils - to the same depth as in autumn processing.

During digging, wet clods of earth must be broken, because when they dry and petrify, it will be very difficult to deal with them. After the earth has been dug up, its surface is leveled with a rake to minimize moisture loss.

In the process of preparing the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers can be added to it - especially if this was not done in the fall. The calculation of the amount of fertilizers is carried out based on the type and number of plants, the type of soil and the degree of its cultivation, etc.

It is extremely important to once again check the planned planting plan, determine the places for crops, taking into account the crop rotation. On this plan, the location in the garden of ordinary, steam and high ridges, steam combs, warm pits and heaps is often noted. In the future, such a detailed scheme will help save a lot of time when arranging places for future plantings and crops.

In addition to the above events, the main spring garden work in april also include items such as:

• - planning of placement of crops on the site, taking into account the speed of their maturation (early, medium and late ripening), calculation of the area for each of the crops;
• - preparation of seeds, calibration and selection of full-weight specimens for sowing;
• - sowing seedlings of vegetable plants (leek, cabbage of all kinds), sowing seedlings of pumpkin crops for film greenhouses - watermelons, cucumbers, melons, etc.;
• - sowing in film greenhouses of radish and cold-resistant green crops.

Around the second half of the month, it is allowed to sow cucumber, squash and zucchini seeds for seedlings for their further cultivation under temporary film shelters.

At the end of April (depending on weather conditions and relative stabilization of above-zero temperatures), you can start sowing cold-resistant crops in open ground - radishes, radishes, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, onions, beans, lettuce, spring garlic. Their seeds are able to germinate at a soil temperature of +3°…+4°С, and the seedlings that have appeared can withstand short-term and mild frosts down to -5°С.

Also, spring work in the garden in April involves planting early-ripening potatoes at the end of the month (often using film shelters) and sowing mid-season cabbage seeds under the film.

Garden work in April

The second month of spring gives summer residents the opportunity to do everything that was not done in March and postponed since autumn - it is precisely for this reason that the volume of work in the garden in April increases significantly. At this time of the year, the snow begins to melt very quickly, the meltwater quickly leaves the site, and in the garden not only trees and shrubs wake up from hibernation, but also surviving pests, carriers of dangerous diseases. So that you do not lose sight of any important event, we will give in this part of the publication a detailed list of what work should be done in the garden in April.

So, the plan for working in the garden in April is usually represented by items such as:

• - Inspection of all fruit and berry plantations;
• - pruning of fruit trees, formation of berry bushes;
• - grafting and re-grafting of trees;
• - harvesting planting material, checking seedlings stored and buried since autumn;
• - treatment of plants from overwintered pests and pathogens;
• - cleaning the trunks of adult garden trees, treating and disinfecting wounds, hollows and damage, pruning dead and dry branches;
• - whitewashing boles and bases of skeletal branches;
• - digging of soil that has become very compacted during the winter, digging of areas not dug up in autumn, as well as loosening dry soil in trunk circles;
• - top dressing of garden plantings;
• - preparation of material for smoke heaps (last year's foliage, needles, cut branches, etc.);
• - carrying out early spring watering - in case the stock of spring moisture in the soil is not enough and the ground is too dry;
• - pruning and burning of tree branches affected by the ringed silkworm;
• - cleaning of old birdhouses and titmouses or installation of new houses and bird feeders;
• - gradual removal of shelters (spruce branches, mulch, etc.) from overwintered plants - this procedure is carried out depending on weather conditions and relative heat stabilization;
• - planting pome, stone fruit and berry crops, transplanting trees and shrubs.

As a rule, everything gardening in april begin with a careful inspection of garden plantings and studying their condition after winter. In the process of inspecting the garden, those trees and shrubs that require transplantation are determined - in the event that, for example, they were not planted in the most suitable place. In addition, while closely examining your garden, you can easily identify crops that have suffered from sunburn, frost, strong winds, pests and diseases.

Pruning fruit and berry crops and cleaning tree trunks

After a thorough inspection of the garden, you can proceed to such a responsible procedure as pruning and shaping fruit trees and shrubs. Our site for gardeners and gardeners recommends following the following sequence of actions here: first, prune blackcurrants, irgi, raspberries, then prune gooseberries, white and red currants, apple trees and pears, and lastly, plums and cherries.

Trees, whose age has crossed the line of 12-15 years, need to be cleaned of old bark in the spring. Desquamating and growing, it becomes covered with moss and eventually becomes a habitat for pathogens and pests.

The cleaning procedure is performed with special scrapers, metal brushes and other devices, after which the bark on the trunks should become smooth and renewed. When cleaning, along the way, it will be necessary to treat the detected wounds, hollows, cracks and bites with a solution of copper sulfate, and then cover them up.

Drawing up a plan for the placement of crops on the site

If in the coming year you plan to diversify your garden with new fruit and berry crops, try to carefully consider their placement on the site. Remember that random planting of vegetables, shrubs and trees is unacceptable. In the future, the randomness of plantings will greatly complicate (if not completely make it impossible) the fight against pests and diseases.

The placement of all crops on the site should be carried out according to the principle of grouping plantings in accordance with their species. Moreover, it is most rational for each berry and fruit crop to have not one, but several varieties with different fruit ripening periods - both early-ripening, and mid- and late-ripening. Such foresight will allow you to receive an uninterrupted harvest of fruits and berries throughout the summer season.

Working with planting material

Such an important point of the work plan on the site in April as the harvesting and checking of planting material requires special attention. Garden crop seedlings must be purchased in autumn or in spring - before the start of the next summer season.

Saplings purchased in the fall are added dropwise for wintering, and in the spring they are carefully examined, assessing the general condition and degree of suitability for planting. Immediately before planting, the condition of the root system of seedlings is examined: dangling and broken roots must be cut with pruners to a healthy place.

Apples and pears are allowed to be planted both in autumn (after the leaves fall off the trees) and in spring (strictly before the buds open). Cherries and plums, in turn, should be planted in the spring, in no case be late with the planting dates, i.e. before bud break.

Planting strawberries

In the second half of April, they begin to prepare the ground for the spring planting of strawberries - at least a week before the scheduled time for planting seedlings. Advance preparation of the soil for strawberries is necessary so that the dug-up earth has time to settle and slightly compact. If you plant strawberries without waiting for the soil to settle, there will be a risk that the roots of the seedlings will become bare after some time, and the plants themselves will begin to hurt and require a transplant. Usually they try to cope with strawberries before April 20-23, since there will be no time left for it at all.

Grafting and propagation of horticultural crops

April is a good month for grafting and propagating horticultural crops. At this time, cuttings of the best pear varieties are grafted into the crown of other pear trees, rooted cuttings of plums and cherries are planted.

At the beginning of the month, lignified cuttings of sea buckthorn, prepared in autumn, and blackcurrant are planted (its cuttings are planted very early, which is called "in the mud"). At the end of April, in turn, they plant such crops as:

• - raspberries (planted root cuttings harvested in the fall);
• - Chinese magnolia vine (offspring are planted from the mother plant with a rhizome plot);
• - actinidia (planted lignified cuttings).

top dressing

Taking into account the fact that in the spring fruit and berry crops require enhanced nutrition, the gardening plan in April necessarily includes such an item as fertilizing overwintered plantations. The most suitable moment for top dressing is considered to be that short interval of time that occurs immediately after the snow has completely melted - during this period, the soil absorbs the applied fertilizers in the best way. It is important to bear in mind that on light sandy areas this period comes and ends much faster than on dense clay soils.

Fruit trees are fed by distributing fertilizers over the soil surface in tree trunks. For better assimilation of top dressing, the fertilized topsoil will need to be dug shallowly.

The approximate consumption of fertilizers per 1 square meter is:

• - 10 g of urea;
• - 0.5 cups of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate (it is allowed to replace all 3 cups of ash);
• - 1 bucket of organic fertilizers (make 1 time in 3-4 years).

Top dressing of berry bushes should be enriched with nitrogen, so it is advisable to increase the dose of urea recommended above to 20 g per 1 sq. meter.

Pest control and disease prevention

One of the biggest jobs in the garden in April is pest control and disease prevention. With the arrival of spring warmth and the gradual disappearance of night colds, pests begin to awaken in the garden, at the same time the activity of bacteria, viruses, and carriers of various diseases increases.

Currant and gooseberry bushes, affected last year by mites, sawflies, moths and other pests, are treated with karbofos or keltan (based on: 30 g of any of these funds per 10 liters of water).

To protect gooseberries and currants from sucking pests, in turn, allow such proven infusions as:

• - tobacco;
• - mustard;
• - garlic;
• - infusion of onion peel, wood ash, etc.

Plantings are treated with these infusions in the evening or in cloudy dry weather, since the prepared solutions will quickly evaporate in the sun on a hot day and the preventive treatment procedure will be ineffective.

In addition, currant and gooseberry bushes must be carefully examined for their defeat by powdery mildew, gall midge or currant glass. Shoots found with traces of pest activity or signs of disease must be cut and burned.

In order to avoid the development of fungal diseases and the attack of aphids, gooseberries and currants are also recommended to be sprinkled with nitrafen (the solution is prepared from 200 g of 60% paste and 10 liters of water), and the soil under them is also treated with the same agent.

To make garden protection even more effective, summer residents use a wide range of pest and disease control methods - including both chemical and agricultural practices (we previously talked about them in the corresponding publication).

Works in the flower garden in April

General plan work in the flower garden in April usually includes activities such as:

• - picking seedlings of annual flowers sown in March;
• - care for seedlings of annuals sown in March (annual creepers dolichos, sweet peas, etc.);
• - top dressing seedlings of flower crops - also sown in March;
• - top dressing of bulbous (hyacinths, daffodils, tulips) and small bulbous crops (scilla, snowdrops, crocuses, muscari, etc.);
• - top dressing of perennial flowers wintered in the ground (astilba, hosta, irises, phloxes, primroses, peonies, lilies of the valley, etc.);
• - loosening of perennials (carried out when the sprouts of flowers become clearly visible);
• - reproduction of rhizomatous perennials by division (carried out after the soil has completely thawed, but the buds have not yet had time to start growing);
• - soil preparation for sowing seeds of annual flowers in open ground (cornflowers, iberis, lavater, clarke, escholcia, mignonette, etc.);
• - gradual removal of shelters from clematis, roses, as well as from the rhizomes of irises, covered with peat or earth before wintering;
• - pruning roses in the 2nd-3rd decade of the month;
• - feeding roses after pruning;
• - planting rose seedlings in a permanent place (after the ground in the flower garden thaws);
• - sowing seeds of perennial flowers grown through seedlings (delphinium, pinnate carnation, aquilegia, cornflower, etc.) - these works are carried out in April in about the 2nd decade of the month, after the soil has completely thawed and warms up well under a film or glass.

Intending to carry out the bulk of the work in the flower garden, in the garden or in the garden in April from the list above, it is important to take into account the weather and climatic conditions of your region. The dates given in the publication are more of a guide than a direct recommendation, so do not forget to regularly get acquainted with meteorological forecasts and information from weather forecasters.

The second month of spring marks the full beginning of the summer season, so you will always have something to do in April in the garden, vegetable garden, flower garden. Finally, after a long cold winter, nature awakens, the snow has almost completely melted, the beds in the garden are awakening to life again, the plants are actively starting to grow. For gardeners, the most labor-intensive season has begun, including the main types of work, except, perhaps, harvesting.

In order to do everything and not lose sight of anything important, it is better to draw up a clear work plan in advance, because there are so many important things to do: keep water, loosen the earth cover, transplant perennials and protect them from pests. The main work, as in March, will concern seedlings, the time of which continues.

The main work in April is closely related to seedlings, which must continue to be carefully looked after:

• Gradually increase watering.
• Ventilate seedlings more often to accustom them to the open air.
• Tomato seedlings can be left on the balcony all night. If the air temperature drops below zero, the seedling boxes should be covered with a film or textile cloth. The first days of such addiction, protect young plants from the sun. In the first week of the month, the sowing of early-ripening varieties of tomatoes is already being completed.

Gardening in April: when nature wakes up

Most of the preparatory work is being carried out on the site. To help nature wake up from a long sleep, our tips will help:

• It's time to take a detour around the suburban area. In April, usually, there is practically no snow left, only in the most shaded and underestimated areas it still lies. In order not to trample damp soil in vain, move exclusively along the paths;
• there is still an opportunity for pruning fruit and berry crops in the country, where it is needed. This work must be done before the sap flow begins. As a rule, in many regions of Russia, it begins in the second half of the month, so have time to do the necessary pruning work in the garden in a timely manner. Remove damaged and weak shoots of raspberries and blackberries, cut off the frozen tops of berries, form bushes of currants, gooseberries, thin out the crowns of trees, removing dry, diseased and damaged branches;
• remove covering material from strawberries, provided that this was not done in March;
• do a big cleaning of the garden and garden - rake dry leaves and tops into a pile with compost, take out inorganic garbage, eliminate the ice crust on the ground left after the snow cover melts by loosening;
• attention to blackcurrant bushes, noticing swollen buds - they are affected by a bud mite. Cut them off and burn them in the oven or on the grill, if necessary, remove the entire branch;
• treat fruit trees and berry bushes in the country with protective compounds (for example, a solution of aromatic herbs, followed by dusting with sifted ash) before bud break to protect against diseases and pests. If you are for organic farming and do not use pesticides on the site, pour hot water over the bushes with a prepared infusion of garlic or onions, or purchase green soap at the garden store.
• Garden work includes protecting plant boles from damage by the spring sun. You can use both whitewashing trunks with freshly slaked lime mixed with clay or mullein, and garden bandages;
• seal cracks and hollows on tree trunks;
• fertilizing garden plantings, because in spring they really need it for active growth. Trunk circles of fruit are loosened shallowly, powdered with ash, fertilized with compost, peat or rotted manure. Similar measures will appeal to berry bushes. Apply half a bucket of fresh compost under each bush, and 1-2 buckets of this “life-giving” fertilizer under a fruit tree;
• engage in planting berries and fruit trees at steady positive temperatures. When planting, seedlings need to be well watered and fixed to the supports.
• to purchase young seedlings, if they have not been dug since autumn, is also a good period for carrying out work on the propagation of currants and gooseberries by pinning.
• it's time to open the grapes for ventilation. In the southern regions, in early - mid-spring, the shelter is completely removed.

So, first of all, in the garden, you should remove the winter strapping, remove dry branches, leaves, rotten fruits, as well as last year's mulch. Do not leave the collected organic waste on the site, but immediately compost it.

By the way, cut large branches of trees are great as a base for high beds, which are so fond of heat-loving crops. To do this, a trench is dug 40-50 cm deep along the width of the future bed, or only along its central part along and large and small branches are laid there, as well as straw, old lawn hummocks (roots up), from above it is covered back with earth mound. It is poured abundantly with water and after a couple of weeks the bed is ready for planting seedlings of cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, eggplant, peppers and everything your heart desires.

The middle of spring is the best time to work in the garden with the grafting of fruit trees. The video below explains in detail how to perform this operation correctly.

Works in the garden

In the garden, the main work and vigorous activity can be planned after the snow cover has melted. The soil in the country should dry out, otherwise it will stick to shoes and a shovel. We offer an approximate work plan, the implementation of which you can start in the country:

• to begin with, it is worth taking care of preparing the soil in which you will plant seedlings of vegetables. To keep the maximum amount of moisture, loosen the soil in the beds. After that, it is already possible to start organizing and planning future plantings, taking into account the rules of crop rotation;
• in the first days of the month, cold-resistant crops such as radishes, carrots, radishes, onions, lettuce, peas and others are sown in open ground. Since it is still quite cold outside, it is necessary to cover it with a film or non-woven material for the night of planting. Many green crops can already be planted, for example, spinach, parsley, cilantro, dill and others. The use of a film shelter will speed up the emergence of seedlings;
• before planting, potatoes are vernalized - for a month and a half they are placed in a bright place, but not in direct sunlight. In a region with a warm or hot climate, sprouted potatoes can already be planted under a film shelter;
• in the garden, it's time to prepare the beds, which are covered with foil to preserve heat and moisture. Be sure to disinfect greenhouses and hotbeds with boric solution, wash them, thoroughly loosen the ground;
• it is already possible to sow cabbage, broccoli, and herbs in greenhouses. For a great harvest, choose the right planting time, guided by the gardener's lunar calendar for April;
• rake off the mulch from winter plantings, loosen and feed the earth with organic matter;
• After the snow melts, take care of strawberries in the country. Move the mulch away from it, cut off those leaves that have dried up, powder the plantings with ash and spruce needles. If you want to enjoy an early harvest, cover the strawberry bushes with a film on the arcs.

Do not throw away Christmas trees, first collect all the needles from them. After all, the best mulching material for garden strawberries is spruce needles. They provide the necessary feeding and protection for bushes that have awakened from hibernation. And most importantly, such a mulch can significantly improve the taste of the berry.

Working in the garden in April is a mandatory sowing of vegetable crops for seedlings and continuing to care for the already planted. Perennial plants in the country need to provide the required care so that they continue to delight you further.

Things to do in the flower garden in April

Work on the garden plot in the spring should certainly touch on the decoration of your site - flower beds:

• plant perennials, for example, phloxes, leucanthemums, chrysanthemums, delphiniums, which take root best when divided even before the leaves begin to unfold.
• prepare bulbous crops for spring planting in the country. Corms, as practice shows, are best planted in soil heated to at least 10 degrees, otherwise the plants may not germinate or even die.
• gradually open the roses from under the film, first airing them for a couple of hours a day, and then completely removing the covering material;
• in a greenhouse, under a film, cosmos, marigolds, dahlias and other annuals are planted on seedlings.
• feeding perennials also does not interfere: loosen shallowly, free from unwanted neighbors, sprinkle with compost or humus and mulch the flower bed.

Special care in April require:

1. Roses. They should be released from winter shelter. The film is completely removed after the snow has completely melted, before that the bushes are only periodically ventilated. It is also time to do the pruning work of the roses before the buds break. At the same time, the air temperature should not fall below plus 5 degrees. We remove the damaged and weakest branches. To protect roses from diseases and pests, powder young bushes with wood ash, apply 200-300 g of ash under each plant and close it shallowly into the ground.

2. Summer-flowering bulbs. Top dressing of bulbs should be done after the appearance of the first sprouts. Carefully loosen the soil under them and spray against harmful insects with a solution of green soap or powder with wood ash. Rake off the mulch from the lilies and feed them with humus or compost with the addition of a small amount of spent coffee (2 tablespoons per half bucket of compost).

3. Clematis. It's time for spring pruning, organic fertilizing and mulching.

4. Peonies. The optimal period is coming for the division of the most beautiful flowers and favorites of many gardeners - peonies. Keep in mind that you need to divide the flowers quickly before they start to actively grow.

Pay attention to the lawn in spring

When the last snow has melted, inspect the lawn for any damage and fix them:

• Freezing - the grass is stunted and rare. Tamp the frozen peat so that the roots have contact with the soil and can receive nutrients and water;
• Ice crust - prevents the admission of oxygen, resulting in the death of cereals. Upon detection, carefully break the ice with a rake;
• Mold and fungal diseases - spots of gray, white or pink color form on the lawn, grow over time. Remove clods of snow, rake the grass, making fairly deep punctures in places affected by mold. Then powder the lawn with dry sand.
• Mechanical damage - extrusion, compaction and trampling. In case of severe damage, lawn repair will be required: deep loosening, pouring sandy soil and planting new seeds.

So, we have considered what work in the garden and garden awaits us in April. But warm May is ahead - it's time for the main sowing work. If before that you manage to do the preparation with high quality, you can avoid unnecessary troubles in May - the busiest month for summer residents and gardeners.

Note to the gardener: Recently, attention has been increasingly focused on the environmental situation on our blue planet: pollution from exhaust gases, pesticides, fires and littering will not lead our children to a healthy and happy future. Every year, several species of animals die out and there are more and more disabled people. Each gardener has a chance to make his own and rather tangible contribution to the preservation and even improvement of the ecology of the planet Earth. Of course, it is rather difficult to influence the first point in our age of progress, but every gardener can and even must fight with the other three points! The whole point is: do not litter yourself and do not allow negligent neighbors to do this, do not let spring and autumn fires that kill not only weeds, but also healthy, beneficial microorganisms and insects, and do not pour chemistry on our long-suffering soil. Instead of fires and chemicals, please turn your attention to the miracle of composting. After all, everything that is on the ground and in the kitchen can be folded and harvested (your free!) fertilizer. Ready-made compost is wonderful for fertilizing, mulching and healing the soil. In many developed countries, pesticides and fires have already been banned. Why are we worse? Please! Let's protect our common home for our children together. Thanks.

1. April is a responsible month. First of all, you need to drain excess water from the site. To do this, dig grooves along the slope of the site so that water flows into the ditch. If there is no slope on the site, then simply dig a shallow groove, gradually deepening it so that the water flows in the direction you need. Especially dangerous is the stagnation of water on raspberries, strawberries and clematis.

2. At the beginning of the month, it is necessary to remove the spruce branches from young plantings of strawberries, roses, irises, clematis, lilies, especially from oriental hybrids, since under a warm shelter they will quickly grow and their flower bud may freeze out during return frosts. However, do not rush to remove the boxes of roses and clematis.

3. Feed with nitrogen fertilizer (3 tablespoons of urea per 10 liters of water) lovage, rhubarb, sorrel, raspberries. Instead of urea, you can use an infusion of manure or bird droppings, diluted with water 1:10 or 1:20, respectively. If at the same time you cover these landings with lutrasil or put arcs over them and stretch the film, then by May 1 you will already have greenery.

4. If the compost heap is located in the sun, then early greens (chervil, watercress, cilantro, parsley, lettuce, spinach, dill) and early carrots, as well as radishes, can be sown on it. To do this, spill last year's pile of compost with hot water, pour a layer of soil about 7-8 cm high on top of the compost and sow the seeds. I usually do it this way: I mix 1 teaspoon of seeds with half a glass of sand and sow in the furrows as I salt food.

You can use special seeders, in which the opening is adjusted according to the size of the seeds. In this case, the seedlings will not thicken.

From above, crops can be covered with a film until shoots appear. Heat and moisture are retained under the film, and crops appear faster. After the emergence of shoots, the film must be removed, otherwise the shoots may burn under the film. If you cover the crops with lutrasil or spunbond, then the covering material can not be removed until the plants grow up, but before germination, the crops should be watered directly over the material if the weather is dry or windy so that the hatched seeds do not dry out in the upper drying layer of soil.

5. At the beginning of the month, pre-grow weeds on vegetable beds, covering the beds with old film and fixing it so that the wind does not blow it away. Weeds will quickly sprout under the film, so as soon as they appear, remove the film and loosen the beds, leaving them open for a day. Then cover again with foil and repeat the operation. Now there are no weeds in the top layer of soil in the garden. It is important not to dig up the soil, but only before sowing, loosen it with a Fokin flat cutter, then make furrows for sowing with the sharp end of a flat cutter. Sowing in open ground of all the crops listed above can be done at the time of flowering of the coltsfoot, that is, in late April-early May.

6. Leaf parsley for greens and bush dill can be sown in early April. In mid-April, you can sow marigolds, marigolds, zinnia for seedlings.

7. At home, water the seedlings of tomatoes and peppers moderately so as not to overmoisten the soil. Remember that seedlings need good lighting. As a top dressing, I use a weak Uniflora-growth solution (1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water), with which I water the seedlings instead of water. Do not forget to spray the leaves of tomatoes and eggplants with a very weak solution of a copper preparation (the easiest way is to use chlorine copper oxide - HOM, dissolving one fifth of a teaspoon of the powder in 5 liters of water). The solution can stand, you will use it two more times approximately every two weeks. This is a good preventive measure against late blight. But the often recommended spraying with a solution of manganese can be omitted, since it does not save from late blight, and other diseases rarely appear on tomato seedlings. Pepper can be sprayed with a solution of potassium permanganate, especially if it is annoyed by aphids.

Peppers are difficult to protect from aphids if there are indoor plants in the same room where the seedlings grow. It helps very well against aphids by spraying any plants and at any time with a solution of the Healthy Garden preparation (4-5 grains per 1 liter of water).

8. It's time to take the potatoes out of storage, lower them into hot (45 degrees) water.

When the water has cooled, add potassium permanganate to a bright pink color and hold the tubers in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Then wash the tubers, dry them and lay them out for vernalization in a bright and cool place.

At the end of April, put the potatoes in cardboard boxes, layering each layer with newspapers, put the boxes in a warm place so that the potatoes give good strong sprouts. You will plant grown tubers, thereby accelerating the ripening of the crop by two weeks.

9. If you have not done the pruning, then at the very beginning of the month it can still be done. Start with blackcurrant bushes, gooseberries and honeysuckle.

Cut off the black ends of the branches, rejuvenate the bushes by cutting out the old branches. At the gooseberry, all young shoots growing in the middle of the bush should be cut out, only those that grow along the edges of the bush should be left.

In red and white currants, the tops of the branches are not cut off, but only the old branches and those branches that branch into the crown are removed. In honeysuckle, pruning thickens the crown or broken branches.

10. Do not rush to cut cherries and plums, wait until freezing after wintering becomes clearly visible, and even better, leave their pruning for the fall. The same applies to apple trees. After a harsh winter, the ends of the branches could freeze, but some of the branches will be able to recover from the buds on the bark, so do not rush to cut the branches, leave the pruning for the end of summer. Frozen wood has a light brown color on the cut. Start pruning from the end of the branch and, gradually moving from the end to the skeletal branches, you will get to the place where the cut is light - from this place the tree tissue is alive and there is no need to cut further.

11. To get early strawberries, cover at least one bed with a film on arcs or double thin lutrasil directly over the bushes.

12. Toward the end of the month, those plants in which the scales of the buds have moved apart and a green cone of leaves have appeared should be sprayed, since the first pests lay their eggs at this very moment in the green cone of the leaf. It is better to use an infusion or decoction of strong-smelling herbs (such as tansy, garlic, or citrus peels) to disorientate pests.

13. April is a good time for vaccinations. In early April, you can cut off the cuttings for vaccination, wrap them in a newspaper, put them in a plastic bag and dig them into the snow on the north side of the house, but so that they are not flooded with melt water. At the end of the month, these cuttings can be used for grafting.

14. At the end of the month, sow directly into the ground in place the seeds of annuals and perennials that are not afraid of frost (poppy, escholcia, cosmea, cornflowers, iberis, catchment, forget-me-nots, marigolds). Other flowers can also be sown directly into the ground, even such as tobacco or petunia, but their crops should be covered with a film stretched over small arcs. Arcs are easy to make yourself from willow twigs, from which you should immediately remove the bark. Willow grows along ditches.

15. At the end of the month, you can remove the shelter from all ornamental plants, except for clematis. It is better to cover their growing shoots. .

When the snow melts and the earth dries out a little, it's time to prepare the soil for sowing garden seeds. It is necessary to cultivate and harrow all the beds that were dug up in the fall with a rake. The same beds and plots that were not dug up in the fall need to be dug up with the addition of compost, superphosphate and ash.

Perennial crops should be freed from mulching materials, loosened, fed and covered with portable film structures in order to get an early harvest.

The first half of April is the time to sow green crops such as Chinese cabbage, lettuce, dill, watercress, cilantro, mustard leaf, as well as sunflowers, peas, and beans. And at the end of the month, seeds of cold-resistant plants are sown: carrots, onions, parsley, parsnips, radishes, lettuce, dill, etc. At the same time, turnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas, onion sets, beets are sown. From the beginning of the second decade, sow a cucumber, plant an early tomato under film shelters.

It's time to stretch the film on greenhouses and film shelters. Properly (with slate edging) prepare new beds.

Garden work in April

In most parts of Russia, spring comes in April. In the second half of the month in the middle zone of our country, sap flow and bud swelling begin in fruit trees. It's time for the most important spring work. In early April, all early spring plant care work that was not completed in March, for example, due to bad weather, should be completed.

With the last snow melting and sufficient drying of the top layer of the earth, put the area in order: rake the remaining last year's leaves, tops, branches, season cucumber beds with them, or put them in a compost heap. If weather conditions allow, start cultivating the soil - the sooner you loosen it, destroying the crust formed after the snow melts, the more soil moisture will be saved for the plants. Dig up the earth only if it is completely dry. You need to dig to a depth that is half as much as in autumn, otherwise, you can return the layer to its previous position.

Remove the strapping from the boles of the trees, and if the lime is washed off, it is necessary to repeat the whitewashing of the trunks with lime mortar. You can also whitewash stems and branches with freshly slaked lime (at the rate of 2-3 kg per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 0.5 kg of copper sulfate. Lime can be replaced with ground chalk by adding skimmed milk (2 liters per 10 liters of water) or wood glue (50-100 g per 10 liters of water) to the solution for better adhesion. Also add clay, mullein. These additives for better stickiness should also be mixed with lime whitewash. Such an event will protect plants not only from frost, sunburn, but also additionally destroy pests in the wintering stage, pathogenic fungi, and clear mosses and lichens.

If for some reason you were not able to spray against wintering stages of pests in March, then it is not too late to do it now, before the buds swell. All fruit trees, gooseberry bushes, blackcurrants and raspberries can be treated with a solution of nitrafen (300 g per 10 liters of water) against pathogenic fungi and aphids. At the same time, the soil under trees and shrubs is also sprayed with nitrafen.

A little later, at the end of April, when the buds begin to bloom, to combat scab, fruit rot and other fungal diseases in gardens, pear and apple trees are treated with Bordeaux liquid (300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of freshly slaked lime per 10 liters of water).

At the same time, thickening, dry branches growing deep into the crown, tops (growing vertically upwards) are cut out, long ones are shortened.

Stamps are cleaned of dead bark, heal wounds that were formed from breaks, damage by hares and mice. Hollows, cancerous wounds are cleaned - they are first treated with copper sulfate (50 g per 1 liter), then the hollows are sealed with cement, in cancerous wounds - with a mixture: putty (6 parts of nigrol + 2 parts of molten paraffin + 2 parts of molten rosin) with a gauze bandage applied . To get rid of the apple flower beetle, trapping belts made of corrugated paper, burlap impregnated with karbofos (at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water) are applied to the base of the trunk.

The best time for planting fruit trees is early spring, and spring planting is especially important for cherries, as they often freeze when planted in autumn. Planted plants should be whitewashed, watered abundantly and mulched. At the same time, berry bushes are propagated by cuttings and layering.

It's time to start grafting and re-grafting fruit trees. Before sap flow begins, they are grafted in the “split”, “side cut” and “wedge” methods. "Bridges" are installed on the damaged parts of the boles - thus, healthy, well-developed, not frozen one-year last year's cuttings of any winter-hardy variety are grafted. They do this on the basis of - 4-5 shoot bridges are placed on a stem up to 10 cm thick with an interval of 5-7 cm around the circumference.

Blackcurrant buds must be examined and, if swollen round buds (carriers of one of the dangerous pests - kidney mites) are found, they are broken out. Also cut out branches affected by a glass case, or with a large number of swollen buds. All infected buds and branches that could be collected must be burned. Spray currant and gooseberry bushes affected by powdery mildew and anthracnose before bud break: either nitrafen, or karbofos, or Bordeaux mixture. Weed and loosen shrubs - currants, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, blackberries, Japanese quince, hazelnuts, while removing dry, thin, recumbent, too old, broken, thickening branches. Raspberries and blackberries need to be untied. They also cut off the tips of the branches, cutting out the dry ones, infected with the stem gall, shorten the frozen branches to live buds. Before the buds wake up, tie up the raspberry shoots on the trellises - in this case, the plants will be better illuminated by the sun and the berries will ripen a little earlier. In addition, the garter will facilitate the care of plants in general.

Areas with strawberries need to be cleaned of whiskers and old leaves, collected and burned. Fertilizers are applied under the strawberries and the soil is loosened. Additionally, those plants that are very bare and stick out of the soil are spudded. Planting young bushes. The dead bushes can only be replaced with new ones (stocked since autumn). If frost is still possible, then the strawberries should be covered.

One of the most important jobs for a gardener in April is preparing to protect the orchard from spring frosts. Between the opening of the buds and the end of the formation of the ovaries, the gardener must monitor the air temperature in order to be ready to protect the flowers and ovaries. The most affordable way to protect the garden from frost is to smoke. The smoke screen helps to keep the heat in the garden, which is given off by the soil during the night. In this regard, at the beginning of the month, brushwood, straw manure, turf, peat, fallen leaves, potato tops, sawdust, wood chips and other materials for arranging smoke heaps should be prepared.

Works in the ornamental garden, flower garden in April

When the snow has melted and the soil has warmed up, the condition of the lawns is checked at a depth of 5-10 cm. In areas where plants fall out from freezing (or soaking), it is necessary to sow grasses - the soil in the places of attacks is dug up, leveled and seeds of lawn grasses are sown at the rate of 6-10 g per 1 m 2. Then the crops are covered with a rake, compacted from above with the back side, and watered from a watering can with a mesh nozzle.

With ornamental plants, such as, for example, roses, hydrangeas and others, they remove shelters, loosen and loosen the soil around the bushes.

In addition, roses are pruned: for remontants, 6-8 buds are left on each shoot, for hybrid tea and polyanthus - 2-3 buds, for climbing and park roses, only dead, broken and simply weak branches are removed.

At this time, ornamental trees and shrubs are transplanted. In flower beds (flower beds, borders) you can plant seedlings of daisies, forget-me-nots, viola, calendula and other annuals that are resistant to spring frosts.

Towards the end of the month, you can sow sweet peas, matthiola, whose seedlings tolerate short-term frosts. Then they take care of bulbous perennial early-flowering plants: tulips, hyacinths, daffodils. They should be fed with mineral fertilizers per 1 m 2: urea 20 g, superphosphate 20 g, potassium salt 15 g. Next, the soil around the sprouts that appear should be loosened, and if it is dry, water it.

In the last decade, germinated gladiolus bulbs are planted (distance from each other 10-15 cm, between rows 20-25 cm). Children of gladioli must be planted until mid-April on a compacted grid (3-5-15 cm).

Immediately before planting, the bulbs and babies are recommended to be kept in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. Bulbs can be divided into 2-3 parts, depending on the number of sprouts, while treating the wound surface with brilliant green or coal powder. They are planted in a hole up to 10 cm deep with the bottom down or on the edge and even upside down. Gladiolus can be grown in one place for no more than three years, and preferably two.

Among other things, during this period, climatis should be unrolled and specimens with lashes not cut off in autumn should be raised on trellises, dry tips should be cut off, and nitrogen fertilizer should be filled.

In case the perennials in your garden have grown and shredded, it means that it's time to separate them. Cut the edges of the bush with a knife and carefully remove it from the ground. Sprinkle the cuts with charcoal.

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