Katarantus - all the secrets of successful cultivation. Features of planting, growing a catharanthus, as well as caring for him with a photo

To grow in your garden healthy plant you need to observe the subtleties of care. Everyone respects exotic flowers. In this article, the editors set out to lay out many secrets to avoid disease when breeding a rare plant. The secrets of the content of most color classes are the same. Every living being requires a painstaking approach. It seems correct to understand for useful procedures to which family the acquired plant belongs.

How to properly care for a catharanthus?

The soil should be nutritious and loose.

To do this, it is best to take one part of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leafy soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for the catharanthus will also work, especially if there is no excess of salts in it. For potting, you can use geranium soil. The main thing is not to forget about drainage using fine expanded clay.

Watering and humidity.

Like all plants, pink catharanthus loves water. Therefore, it should be watered regularly, but in no case should it be poured, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if the flower pot is not on a pallet with expanded clay, then it is better to pour out the excess water from the pallet.

Growing a catharanthus from seeds

But on the windowsill it is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then you can sow seeds for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to see. Compared to petunia, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. Water the earth first, wait until the water is absorbed and only then start sowing seeds. The seeds sown require darkness. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is about 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This is the official version of sowing seeds. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, one can come to the conclusion that seeds germinate well even without a film. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not dry out, do not overmoisten when you remove the film.

The emerging sprouts remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed the sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear until the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first pick is carried out if the plant already has four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then transfer them together into open ground, so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to separate these bushes, then the woven roots will break, and the pink periwinkle tolerates such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down for a long time in growth. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Katarantus is a "fast" flower. Therefore, by the end of summer, he will already cover the earth with a flowering rug.

Reproduction of catharanthus by cuttings

If you do not have seeds, but there is an opportunity to get a cutting, then growing in such a vegetative way will not be difficult either. The cuttings should not be woody. Apical green cuttings are suitable for vegetative propagation of periwinkle. They take root well in water, especially if you add a few drops of stimulant there. Or you can plant the cuttings directly into wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or an ordinary jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in spring after pruning, and in autumn by cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature, for the rooting of cuttings to be successful, must be at least twenty degrees.

Catharanthus and pests - problems in growing.

If periwinkle grew on the street in summer, then before bringing the plant into the room, check if it has been attacked by aphids. Spider mites and scale insects can also attack the flower. If this happened indoors, then the air is too dry for the flower. Spray the plant more often, and remove the pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat special means... Well, in this case, a soap solution helps, which can also be used to process the leaves without harming the plant. Brown rust can also attack the catharanthus. The leaves are then covered underneath with "pustules".

Caring for the catharanthus - as well as for any house plant, you need to observe:

See continuation: "Catharanthus - an impeccable guest from Madagascar" "Periwinkle in the house and garden: catharanthus and company"

Garden plants

Katarantus - growing and care

Perennial plants are one of the options for landscaping premises and gardens. This is not surprising, because by planting a perennial, you get rid of the need to purchase seeds annually and sow them, waiting - will they sprout?

In this article we will talk about catharanthus, planting and caring for this plant.

Catharanthus in the garden

Katarantus belongs to the botanical family of kutrovye and is an evergreen perennial up to one and a half meters high. The leaves are shiny, smooth, dark green in color, abundant flowering, the flowers outwardly resemble periwinkle. It was this external similarity that caused the scientists to consider the catharanthus related to the periwinkle for quite a long time and called it "vinok" or "pink periwinkle".

It is difficult to determine the homeland of the catharanthus, since in the wild it is widespread in Africa, India, Cuba, Madagascar, the island of Java and the Philippines.

Catharanthus in a flowerbed can only be grown in regions with a mild warm climate. Of course, you can plant it in the garden in mid-latitudes, but the catharanthus in the open field will not be able to overwinter.

Katarantus: growing

The plant prefers light areas with limited direct sunlight. The western and eastern sides of the garden (or windows facing these sides) are perfect for catharanthus. The plant does not like excessive soil moisture (especially in spring - excess moisture in spring washes to destroy the flower completely), but the air must be well humidified. In order for the catharanthus to develop well, it needs regular spraying. When growing in a pot, take care of a sufficient amount of soil as the plant develops quickly enough.

The best soil for catharanthus is a mixture of sand, peat, humus, leafy and soddy soil (in equal amounts). V warm time year, the catharanthus feels good at a temperature of 19-25 ° C, and during the rest period, the temperature in the room with the plant should be in the range of 12-18 ° C.

The plant should be replanted annually, and in case of rapid growth in the summer, two or three transfers can be made into larger pots. If the catharanthus is not transplanted in time, the roots are entwined with an earthen lump in a pot and the plant begins to weaken - the leaves turn yellow and crumble, flowering decreases or stops. So that the shoots of the catharanthus do not stretch too much, in the spring they are cut off to a third of the length.

In the spring, the plant needs additional fertilizing - complex mineral and phosphate fertilizers twice a month will be just right.

Make sure that pests do not appear on the leaves of the catharanthus and destroy them in a timely manner. The most common pests of this plant are: mealybug. whitefly. scale insect and aphids.

Catharanthus: reproduction

There are a few basic rules in circumcision:

branches are docked at 1/3 of their height;
all dry stems are removed (the knife is pre-disinfected);
the cut is sprinkled with gray.

Watering

Katarantus is from southern countries and loves to take a shower. Therefore, in the summer it should be watered 3 times a week. Do not let the soil dry out. But it should not rot either. Therefore, after watering, after 20 minutes, the water remaining on the pallet does not interfere with pouring out, otherwise the roots may rot with prolonged contact with water.

The flower loves to be sprayed very much. For watering and spraying, the water must be room temperature that sucks for a couple of days. V winter time watering is reduced to 1 time per week. The soil, between watering, should dry out in winter.

Lighting

Katarantus takes root well in bright places. But the light for him must be diffused. In summer, it will bloom magnificently on the western window, but the eastern one will do. In the morning, you should protect the flower from direct sunlight. Place it in the shade or lower the curtain.

For the summer, the pot with the plant can be taken out into the garden, but choose a place for it where it will not be flooded in case of rain.

For the winter, the catharanthus is recommended to be rearranged to the south side of the window in a warm place. In poor lighting in winter, the plant reaches for the light source, thereby stretching its stems. You can get out of the situation. It is enough to strengthen the phytolamp from above at a distance of 8-10 cm on the flower.

Temperature

Katarantus, although he came to us from the sultry southern countries, even in the summer, got used to room temperature, not higher than 25 ° C, ideally 20-25 ° C. In winter, it prefers a lower temperature of 12-160C.

It is very important to maintain the humidity in the air. When it dries up, the plant suffers greatly. Therefore, it so needs frequent spraying. If it is not possible to buy a humidifier for the air, you can put a container of water next to the pot. In winter, during the heating season, you can hang a wet towel on the hot radiator.

Reproduction

Catharanthus reproduces in two ways - vegetatively and by seeds.

In early spring, the seed is planted 2 cm deep into the soil. He needs to provide good nutritious soil. The seeds must be covered with an opaque film, because it will grow only in the dark. It is desirable to maintain the temperature at 23-250C. In this case, the first shoots will not be long in coming and will appear in a week. As soon as they appear, the film must be removed and the temperature must be reduced to 200C. Groundbait should be done 14 days after the sprouts have sprouted. Fertilizer for flowering indoor plants in a lower concentration is suitable here. You can plant young flowers when they grow up to 10 cm and there will be 4-5 petals on the stem. It should be planted in a volumetric pot with a hole in the bottom, providing the right soil and drainage.

Catharanthus also propagates by apical cuttings. To do this, they are placed in water. As soon as the root appears, they are transplanted into a separate pot.

Katarantus does not require constant attention and especially reverent care, but taking care of it will be rewarded with lush exquisite flowers.

Katarantus photo

Catharantus is a plant of the Kutrovy family. Homeland - Madagascar.

V natural conditions this plant is widely distributed in the rainforests of India, Indochina, the Philippines and Cuba.

The name "katarantus" comes from the words "katharos" and "anthos", which in translation means "flawless flower".

As you can see in the photo, the catharanthus flower can be both indoor and garden plant, and therefore it is widely used in culture:

Botanical description of the catharanthus plant and a photo of an indoor flower

Catharanthus as an indoor flower is a perennial or annual, herbaceous, flowering plant height from 30 to 60 cm. However, in the natural environment there are specimens up to 1.5 m in height. Stems are erect with a branching tendency at the top. The bark on the shoots is smooth, green or pinkish.

Leaves are lanceolate, without tapering towards the edge, whole-edged, with a white vein in the middle. They have a smooth glossy surface and are opposite or nearly opposite. The foliage is dark green. The length can vary from 2.5 to 8 cm, while the width never reaches more than 3 cm.

As you can see from the photo, the descriptions of the size of the catharanthus flower differ, but on average, an adult plant is a wide, branched bush that can reach 1 m in diameter:

The root system is pivotal - the plant has a very powerful main root, the size of which reaches 30 - 35 cm. A large number of small lateral roots are attached to it. The underground part of the flower has a rather pungent specific smell.

The botanical description of catharanthus flowers is somewhat reminiscent of phloxes, but, unlike the latter, they are located in the leaf axils at the tops of the shoots and are practically odorless. They can grow singly, and can form small inflorescences of 2 - 3 flowers. The color is white or pink, diameter 3 cm. Most often, the petals are monochromatic, but there are varieties that have a contrasting eye. For example, when the central part is maroon and the edges are white, etc. The flower has a regular five-petal shape with a flat corolla. The pharynx is covered with thyroid hairs. Blooms profusely all summer.

The fruit of this plant is a sickle-shaped two-leaved plant, inside which there are up to 10 seeds. However, for the formation of a full-fledged fruit, natural conditions are necessary and open ground... When growing a catharanthus at home, seeds do not appear.

An important part of the description of a plant such as catharanthus is the toxicity of all its parts, which is why you need to be very careful when growing a flower at home. Precautions should be taken by placing the pot out of the reach of children and pets.

Popular types and varieties of catharanthus: photo and description

There is a wide variety of varieties and species of the catharanthus plant, which differ in size and color of flowers. The most popular are K. pink, pink periwinkle. All varieties and hybrids of catharanthus, which are used in culture, are varieties of pink catharanthus.

Catharanthus pink (C. roseus)... It is an evergreen dwarf shrub that is very widespread in Europe, although its natural origin is the forests of India, Indochina and the islands of Madagascar. This type of catharanthus flower has oblong-lanceolate, entire leaves with a white vein in the center, typical for plants of this genus. Its growth is no more than 60 cm, and the length of the leaves reaches a maximum of 7 cm. The flowers are pink in color with a yellow or crimson eye. Cultural forms of this species can have a greater variety of shades of petals. This plant has a long flowering time - in warm climates it can bloom all year round, and in colder climates all spring and summer.

Katarantus Pacific(Pacifica)... As you can see from the photo, this catharanthus variety has a relatively small size - the maximum flower height is 25 - 30 cm, and the crown diameter is only 20 cm. An important characteristic is the unpretentiousness and early flowering of the plant. All varieties of this variety have a typical contrasting eye in the center of large flowers.

Katarantus "Pacifica Burgundy". This variety is distinguished by flowers of a rich wine color with a white eye.

Katarantus "Pacific Epricot". The flowers have an apricot color and a red center.

Katarantus "Pacific White". Variety white with a red central part.

Katarantus "Aristocrat". A semi-shrub of medium height - reaches no more than 50 cm in height. Differs in rather large flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. The color of the petals can vary from deep red to white. A contrasting peephole stands out in the center of the flowers. The variety can be grown both as a houseplant and as a garden plant.

Series "First Kiss" (First Kiss). This variety series of catharanthus is very popular and has an expressive appearance. The flowers are very rich and large. The variety series includes 13 varieties with different shades of petals. Among them, it is worth noting specimens with a violet-blue color, which were bred relatively recently. The plant is quite compact - the height varies from 30 to 40 cm.

Variety series "Cascade" and "Mediterranean" (Mediterranean). These are low ampelous catharanthus that never grow above 10 - 15 cm. However, their shoots can be up to 150 cm in size, but they hang down, or they spread along the ground. The flowers are large - up to 5 cm. The color is very unusual for catharanthus - the petals closer to the edge can change their shade to a lighter or darker one.

How to grow a catharanthus: environmental conditions

In order to grow a profusely flowering catharanthus, you need to be as careful as possible to the conditions of the environment in which the flower resides.

The plant is light-loving, but requires protection from direct sunlight. It is best to provide it with diffused light. The flower will feel good on windowsills in the east or west of the house. However, the catharanthus can also be kept on the east side if you take care of shading at lunchtime. The flower does not have to be placed exactly on the windowsill - it will also feel quite good on a shelf with slightly diffused lighting. If the catharanthus stays in a warm room during the cold season, it also needs good lighting. It is advisable to put fluorescent lamps near it. Otherwise, the shoots will stretch upward, and the plant will lose its decorative appearance.

When growing a flower such as catharanthus, it is necessary to observe certain temperature conditions in the room. During the period of active growth and flowering, the plant will feel best at a temperature of 20 - 25 ° C. Typically, this period occurs in the spring and summer. In winter, the catharanthus can be kept in a cool room with a temperature of 10-12 ᵒС. Long-term holding of a flower in conditions below 10 degrees can kill it. If there is no need to keep the plant as a perennial, and the owner is going to throw it away after flowering, then the catharanthus needs to be provided with the warmest conditions and good lighting. In this case, it will bloom profusely. In summer, you can take it out to the balcony, terrace, but it is necessary to protect the plant from rain. Also, do not leave the flower pot in a draft, as this can harm the catharanthus. You can move the plant outside as soon as the air temperature rises above 18 degrees. At the first cold snaps in August-September, the flower should be returned to the house.

Caring for the catharanthus will be successful if the flower is planted in fertile, light and loose soil, since this factor is one of the decisive ones when growing this plant. You can use a purchased potting potting potting mix for flowering houseplants. However, it is not difficult to prepare it yourself. For this, the following components are used: sod and leafy soil, humus, peat, sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1: 1. According to the reaction, the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic.

Watering and feeding the catharanthus (with video)

When growing a catharanthus at home, careful care of the level of humidity in the air and soil is necessary. This is due to the tropical origin of the flower. In the natural environment, the plant develops in conditions of high humidity and requires the same when grown indoors.

It is important not to forget to constantly spray the air around the catharanthus. Spraying the plant itself should be very careful - drops should not fall on the flowers. To increase the humidity, you can put the pot on a pallet with wet pebbles or place a small container of water near it.

As shown in the video, it is necessary to water the catharanthus after it has dried out. upper layer soils with a depth of 2 - 3 cm:

However, in no case should the earthen coma dry out. The curling of the leaves of the plant will indicate an insufficiently moistened soil. If you notice this in time and resume proper watering, then the foliage will straighten back. Stagnation of water in the sump and waterlogged soil also negatively affect the health of the catharanthus. The flower feels good with a stable average humidity of an earthen coma. In summer, watering is plentiful, in winter - moderate.

In order to achieve long and abundant flowering, it is necessary to carry out regular intensive feeding of the catharanthus plant. The optimum fertilization frequency for perennial flower- twice a month. Among what you can feed the catharanthus, you should pay attention to fertilizers for flowering house plants, especially indoor roses. Complex mineral fertilizers are also used. If the owner is going to keep the flower for only one year, then feeding should be done once a week along with watering.

Given that the catharanthus is a fast-growing branchy plant, it must be constantly pruned. This procedure is carried out during transplantation, after the flower has had time to rest over the winter. Elongated stems must be cut off with a sharp knife to a third of their length. Pruning more will cause the foliage to shrink. You should also get rid of damaged and dry shoots. By pruning, you can give the bush the desired shape.

Do I need to pinch the catharanthus and when to do it

The method of pinching a catharanthus flower is carried out in order to form a bush lush crown and add more branching to it. To do this, gently pinch the tips of the shoots, which after that will not extend further upward. At the same time, the growth of side branches will increase. This will not only give the crown a magnificent shape, but also add an abundance of flowering.

The best time to pinch a catharanthus is summer period, but this procedure can also be carried out in the spring. Some growers do this every two weeks throughout flowering. There is a possibility that the shoots treated in this way will become slightly lignified. If the procedure was carried out in the summer, then flowering on them will appear after 2 - 3 weeks. Therefore, there is no definite answer as to whether it is actually necessary to pinch the catharanthus, since this depends on the owner's idea of the appearance of the flower. This procedure affects exclusively decorativeness, which is a matter of taste.

How to plant and transplant a catharanthus

The transplant is carried out once every 2 years for mature plants and once a year for young ones. This frequency is due to the rather rapid growth flower. Given this fact, a flower pot must be chosen large and deep enough, since root system has a size of up to 35 cm in length. Every year you need to select a container 3 - 5 cm wider than the previous one. Before planting the catharanthus in new pot, it is necessary to examine the plant for diseases and carry out annual pruning. This procedure is carried out in early spring - in March. The transplant is carried out by transferring the flower together with the old earthen clod into a new pot. It is not necessary to get rid of the soil from the previous container for the reason that it will damage the root system of the catharanthus, which may not recover from such stress. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to pour a drainage layer 3-4 cm deep. This will not allow excess moisture to stagnate in the soil. Expanded clay or pebbles can be used as drainage materials. After that, a small layer of substrate is poured, and the plant is rolled over into a new pot. The empty space remaining between the walls and the earthen lump is covered with soil of the same composition as in the previous transplant.

There is a possibility that the plant will need to be replanted more than once a year. For example, if the catharanthus began to turn yellow lower leaves, and the flowers gradually fall off, then the reason for this, most likely, is the filling of the entire area with the roots of the earthen coma. In this case, one can observe the protrusion of the roots from drain holes pot. In this case, the flower should be immediately transferred to a larger container.

Reproduction of the catharanthus using cuttings

Florists do not recommend growing perennial catharanthus for more than three years. After this period expires, the plant loses its splendor, the leaves and flowers become smaller, the shoots begin to curl. Many even use the flower as an annual plant. For the most part, this is due to the problem of wintering - the perennial needs to ensure the correct temperature regime, watering and lighting. At the same time, over the winter, the shoots still stretch out and lose their decorative effect. In fact, it is much easier to grow a new plant that will soon gain the strength to bloom and look fresher and healthier.

Reproduction of the catharanthus plant can be carried out in several ways: by cuttings, sowing seeds and dividing the bush.

In order to reproduce the catharanthus using cuttings, it is necessary to use the apical green shoots of the old plant. They can be harvested both in spring and autumn. The length of the cuttings should be 8-10 cm.

Rooting can be done in two ways:

In water.
In the substrate.

In the first case, boiled water at room temperature is used. To successfully complete the rooting process, you can add a few drops of a growth stimulant to the vessel. The glass with the handle should be in a warm, bright place. If there is less water, then the glass needs to be filled a little so that the amount of moisture is kept at the same level. After the formation of roots, it is necessary to plant the catharanthus at home and take the same care as for an adult plant.

In order to root the cuttings in the substrate, it is necessary to deepen them 2 - 3 cm into wet soil and cover with a jar or polyethylene. This will create the conditions for the greenhouse. The container is placed in a warm place with good lighting. Planted shoots should be regularly ventilated and sprayed. When the first leaves appear on the cuttings, the shelter can be removed

How can you grow a catharanthus from seeds

Growing a catharanthus at home using seeds can be carried out at any time of the year, but it must be borne in mind that it will bloom only 2 to 3 months after planting. On the advice of experienced florists, this procedure should be carried out in early spring. Seeds are usually bought in specialty stores, since it is almost impossible to collect them from old plants.

Before sowing, the seeds must be kept in a solution of potassium permanganate and epin for several hours. After that, they are placed in slightly damp soil to a depth of 1 cm. The container is covered with a transparent lid. For this purpose, glass or polyethylene can be used. For maximum germination, the vessel is placed in a warm but dark place. After 1 - 2 weeks, when the first shoots begin to appear, it will be necessary to provide good lighting. To grow a healthy catharanthus from seeds, you need to take care of it as carefully as possible until a full-fledged root system is formed and foliage appears. During this period, the plant is very vulnerable. Optimum temperature for this time it should be kept within 22 - 26 degrees. In the morning, the seedlings are ventilated and moistened. For about one month, their growth is invisible - all the forces of the plants go to the formation of roots. You can plant flowers in individual pots after 3-4 leaves appear. It is advisable to immediately choose a pot big size, because young plant will develop very quickly.

Why do catharanthus leaves turn yellow and what to do to get rid of diseases (with photo)

As you know, most diseases of the catharanthus plant are caused by mistakes in care and improper conditions. external environment... It is always possible to determine that there are problems with the health of a flower by its appearance.

One of the common problems is that the leaves of the catharanthus turn yellow, but not all novice flower growers know what to do at the same time. To begin with, it is worth finding out the cause of this symptom, and there may be several of them. For example, if, together with yellowing, the catharanthus has lost its shape, withers and throws off the foliage, this may mean that it stood for a long time on a windowsill unprotected from the sun. The error can be corrected by rearranging the flower in the back of the room. If only the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, despite the fact that the upper part of the plant looks healthy, then you should not worry - this is a natural process. In the case when the color changes to yellow, starting from the tips of the leaves, then, most likely, the reason is too low air humidity. You can fix the problem by placing a container of water next to the pot, or by using regular spraying. One of the reasons why the leaves of the catharanthus begin to turn yellow may be that the pot is too narrow and the root system has already entwined the entire earthen lump. This is determined by the fact that flowering has also stopped, and the roots protrude from the drainage holes.

Catharanthus is an evergreen inhabitant of Madagascar and India. Herbaceous plant belong to the Kutrovy family, the genus has 8 species. Previously, the catharanthus was attributed to the genus Periwinkle, even called the Pink periwinkle or Madagascar periwinkle. It is now known that these are two different, unrelated plants.

Important! The plant is poisonous! It should not be planted near playgrounds. After pruning and transplanting the plant, you need to wash your hands or work with gloves.

Catharanthus contains alkaloids, from which substances are produced that are part of drugs for blood cancer. In the natural conditions of Russia, a resident of tropical forests is grown as a houseplant, in gardens - as an annual.

Description

In natural conditions, the catharanthus reaches a height of one and a half meters, in a pot culture, the height of the bush does not exceed half a meter. The plant has a strong branched stem, well-developed tap-type root. The flower is covered with large ovoid glossy leaves, the length of which reaches 8 cm and the width is 3 - 5 cm.

Flowering begins 2 months after germination, in late spring - early summer, and lasts until late autumn. Catharanthus flowers are simple, have 5 petals. They are located at the ends of branches and in the axils, collected in several pieces in loose inflorescences - brushes. After pollination, in place of the flower, a seed box ripens - a two-leafed one filled with dark seeds.

Types and varieties

Out of eight existing species catharanthus in gardens and indoor culture use one - catharanthus pink. It is a compact, spreading bush with dark green leaves and white or pink flowers.

Breeders have developed a variety of hybrids based on this species. Here are the most attractive variety groups.

It is proposed to get acquainted with the appearance of the catharanthus by the above photos of flowers.

Location

Catharanthus is a light-loving flower that prefers dim diffused light. In an apartment, pots with a plant are installed on the east or west windows. In the garden, a bush can be planted near trees or tall plants so that the catharanthus is in a light lace shade. It must be covered with non-woven fabric or tulle from the hot summer sun rays, otherwise burns will remain on the leaves.

The flower cannot stand drafts, although Fresh air the plant needs. The most comfortable temperature for him is + 22 + 25 degrees in summer, and +12 +16 in winter. You can do without a dormant period in the winter season, but then the plant is provided with additional lighting with phytolamps, extending the daylight hours to 10 - 11 hours.

The soil

The flower's soil is light and fertile to its liking. It is prepared from peat, large river sand and forest sod land, humus, taking all the ingredients in equal proportions. It is useful to add a full complex to the soil mineral fertilizer for flowers (Kemira Lux, Pocon, Ava).

If the soil has an acidic reaction in the flower garden where the catharanthus is planned to be placed, it is corrected by adding chalk, lime, wood ash, baking soda. Adding good humus will also reduce the acidity of the soil.

Sand and gravel are added to clayey and waterlogged areas to make the earth friable.

Care

Katarantus in his hot homeland is accustomed to frequent rains and high humidity air. At home and in a flower garden, you will have to provide similar conditions for the pet. The bushes are sprayed daily, trying to get water only on the leaves, without affecting the flowers. It is better to carry out the procedure in the evening to avoid burns on the foliage.

With a lack of moisture, the leaves of the catharanthus will dry out at the edges, turn yellow. An aquarium near a flower or a wide dish with water, where pebbles are poured, will help to increase the air humidity. In the garden, the catharanthus feels good on the shore of a reservoir or near a fountain, an artificial waterfall.
Water the flower often, only with warm and soft water. The soil in the pot should be slightly damp at all times. But stagnation of water in the sump is not allowed.

Top dressing with mineral fertilizers, with a predominance of potassium, phosphorus and trace elements, is applied every 2 weeks. They begin to give additional nutrition from the budding phase of the plant. From the moment the shoots appear, until the buds are laid, the bushes are fed with organic matter once to stimulate the growth of the green mass, spreading chicken droppings in water at a concentration of 1 in 20.

At the seedling stage, the catharanthus is pinched several times, removing the apical buds. This stimulates the regrowth of lateral branches, the bush becomes more magnificent. Adult plant every spring it undergoes rejuvenating pruning, with the shortening of all shoots by a third of the length.

Every year the catharanthus needs to be transplanted into a new, larger diameter pot. The procedure is carried out in the spring, transferring the flower into a container with a volume of 5 - 7 cm more than the previous one. It is useful to plant the plant for the summer in open ground, with the onset of cold weather, the flower is dug up and taken to the house.
After the end of flowering, it is useful for the catharanthus to arrange a rest period of 2 to 3 months. For this, the flower is placed in a bright but cool room. They do not feed him and reduce watering, stop spraying the crown.

Pests, diseases

In case of violation of the irrigation regime, thickened crops, in combination with low temperatures, the catharanthus can be affected by rust and root rot. To save the plant, it is transplanted, completely replacing the substrate, stripping the affected areas on the roots to healthy tissues. The plant is treated with phytosporin.

The flower can be invaded, and. A small number of pests are removed with soapy water, carefully wiping the stem, branches and all the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in the solution. In case of severe damage, the bush is sprayed.

Reproduction

Catharanthus seeds are sown in February, to a depth of 1 cm, in a light and nutritious soil. In a warm place, the seedlings of the plant will appear in 15 - 20 days.

Advice. To stimulate germination and protect against fungal diseases, catharanthus seeds are soaked for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, then in an epin solution.

The seedlings are grown at a temperature of +18 degrees and a daylight hours of 9-11 hours, so that they do not stretch out and do not weaken.

At the age of 3 - 5 true leaves of the catharanthus dive in separate pots. When the plants reach a height of 10 - 12 cm, pinch the top for the first time to stimulate tillering. A week after pinching, the flower is fed with nitrogen fertilizer.

A flower is taken out into the street when a steady warmth comes. When landing in the ground, a layer of expanded clay or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the planting hole as drainage. The distance between the bushes ranges from 40 to 60 cm, depending on the size of the adult plant.

The tropical guest will bloom in 2 - 3 months, after the first shoots appear. Catharanthus can be propagated vegetatively. In the spring, when transplanting an adult flower, its root is cut into pieces with a sharp and clean knife so that at least one bud remains on each section. The cuts are sprinkled with crushed coal, and the cuttings are planted in loose soil.

You can root the catharanthus with apical cuttings, which are harvested during the pruning of the bush. Sections of twigs are immersed in a root-forming preparation (root, heteroauxin), planted in a mixture of peat and sand or perlite. Cover the landings with a plastic bag or plastic bottle, put in a bright and warm place. Be sure to daily airing, watering and spraying the cuttings.

Partners

An abundantly flowering bush is beautiful in itself. It is planted in small groups of 3 - 4 plants with different colors of buds.

Cascading varieties planted in hanging baskets and pots are very beautiful.

Important! It is necessary to remember about the rapid drying of the earthen coma in small pots. Plants in pots are arranged with automatic watering or hydrogel is added to the ground.

In joint plantings, the catharanthus looks harmoniously with,. Low varieties are placed along the paths, in the foreground of mixborders, at the foot of trees and shrubs.
Katarantus in a floor flowerpot and a pot will decorate a terrace, patio, porch.

Watch also the video

For some reason, catharanthus is not very common among lovers of indoor flowers, although in fact it deserves much more attention. Firstly, it is a rather easy plant to grow, and secondly, the catharanthus is thermophilic and grows successfully in heated rooms.

But having bought katarntus, I did not regret a single gram.

Plants pleased me with their magnificent appearance, unpretentiousness and bright flowering. I would generally advise growing catharanthus along with petunias to decorate balconies. Catharanthus quite manage with a portion of the morning sun, and on my eastern balcony they feel great under the condition of regular feeding and watering.
The flowers are simple, with five petals, their color is very diverse: pink, lilac or white, similar in appearance to balsam flowers. Catharanthus flowers are large (up to 3-5 cm in diameter).

But catharanthus flowers cannot compete with phlox scent - they almost do not smell at all.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous.

Catharanthus-indoor flower. There are both bush and ampel varieties.
Caring for a catharanthus is to maintain humid air, an annual transplant into fresh soil, after which the plant is pruned to about 1/3 of the length of the shoots. And also fertilizing with fertilizers from April to October.
In winter, with insufficient light, the stems stretch out, the leaves fall off and the flowers become very shallow. In December-January, you need to cut the plants short, leaving hemp 5-6 cm high, and place on a light cool windowsill.
Moisten as the earthen coma dries out, since at this time the soil sour from frequent watering and the roots rot.
By spring, beautiful bushes with numerous shoots are formed, each of which ends with one or more flowers.
Most often it is affected by the scabbard and spider mite. Too dry indoor air contributes to the appearance of pests. If the catharanthus is kept outdoors in the summer, then it can be attacked by aphids. In this case, it is necessary to conduct an inspection and preventive treatment before introducing the plant into the room.

Possible difficulties:
* Dry ends of leaves - Too dry air.
* Leaves turn yellow, leaf tissue dies off - a lot of direct sunlight.
* Lower leaves turn yellow and fall off - Natural process.
Location: Bright, but protected from direct sunlight.

Watering: In winter, moderate, but without overdrying the earthy coma; plentiful in summer, but do not allow stagnation of water in the sump.
Air humidity: Spray from time to time.

Temperature: 12-18 C in winter, 20-25 C in summer. Move to fresh air in summer.
Transfer: Plants develop and bloom quickly, for successful development, frequent transshipment is necessary, otherwise the lower part of the stem loses leaves and becomes bare, the plant loses its decorative effect.
AGROTECHNIKA
V temperate climates Catharanthus is traditionally considered an indoor perennial, but recently it has been increasingly used as an open field plant and for decorating outdoor compositions in annual crops.

The location for the catharanthus is only suitable for a warm, sunny, well protected from cold winds. The soil should be well moistened, fertile, free from excess salts and have a neutral reaction. Acidic soils must be calcified. When growing catharanthus as a container culture, the soil mixture is prepared from equal parts of sod and leafy soil, humus, peat and sand.
Watering should be regular, many varieties of catharanthus, with a lack of moisture, roll the leaves into tubes, but this is not at all a sign of their irreversible loss, as some amateur flower growers think. Within half an hour after abundant watering, the leaves literally begin to unwind before our eyes. Regardless of the method of growing, both in flower beds and in containers, plants should not be crowded, otherwise in rainy weather the catharanthus will suffer from a lack of ventilation.

If you are using catharanthus as a perennial, the mother plants should be dug up and transplanted into separate pots in the fall (before frost starts). From the specimens remaining on the flower bed, you can take cuttings for rooting. Growing a catharanthus indoors is a fairly simple process. Katarantus will feel great on a light windowsill without direct sunlight. It should be regularly sprayed with water and fed with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer every 2-3 weeks. In winter, the plant is best kept in a bright and cool room with an air temperature of 10 ... 15 ° C.
In the spring, new cuttings are cut from the mother plants, and the cut mother plants can be planted again in the garden together with young plants. In spring, the branches of the catharanthus should be cut by about one third. However, over-pruning causes the leaves and flowers to shrink, so it is easier to rejuvenate the plant by cuttings rather than pruning.
In open ground, these thermophilic plants are planted after the threat of spring frosts has passed. When growing the catharanthus only as a potted plant in the summer, it can be taken out to the balcony, protected from rain, excess sun and wind.

REPRODUCTION OF CATARANTUS

Growing it from seed is as easy as shelling pears (at least it turned out for me). The seeds of the plant are quite large (in comparison with those the same petunias), therefore they retain powerful germination energy.
Catharanthus is propagated equally often by seeds and vegetatively. Seeds are sown to a depth of 1-2 cm in early spring. A plant grown from seeds planted at the end of winter will bloom late spring and will bloom until autumn. Seedling containers must be covered with an opaque film, since complete darkness is required for the germination of catharanthus seeds. At a temperature of about 24 ° C, seedlings will appear in 7-10 days.
After sprouting, the temperature should be lowered and the containers should be exposed to light. The first feeding is carried out 2 weeks after germination. When the plants reach a height of 6-8 cm (usually at the stage of 4 true leaves), a pick can be made. There is one subtlety here: if you decide to grow catharanthus in the garden, the seedlings should be cut into pots of 2-3 plants together and then planted in open ground. This is due to the fact that when dividing plants grown too densely, severe damage to the root system occurs in the common container, which the catharanthus tolerates very poorly, and this significantly slows down the development of plants after planting. Young plants are planted in the ground or decorative containers at a distance of 30-70 cm.
To obtain a more compact bush, young plants are pinched 1-2 times. Pinching should be done not with your hands, but with special tools, since the juice of catharanthus contains over 80 different alkaloids and can cause skin irritation.
Katarantus, in addition to seeds, is easy to propagate with green apical cuttings - they are placed in washed sand and covered with a jar or plastic bag. Also, cuttings can be rooted in water with the addition of a small amount of growth stimulants.

CATARANTUS IN THE GARDEN AND AT HOME

For a long time, domestic amateur flower growers have used this beautifully flowering thermophilic plant for growing in a room or on a balcony. The rise in popularity
catharanthus contributed to the emergence of a fashion for decorative elements in the form of hanging baskets, which were often decorated with this plant. But in last years the European tendency to decorate the garden with catharanthus during the summer is becoming more and more widespread in our country.
In addition to being used as an ampelous plant, the catharanthus can be used as a spectacular ground cover crop. It grows quickly, taking up all the available space and covering the soil with a dense carpet. The catharanthus ridges along the paths, located in partial shade, can become a magnificent element of the garden.
Both low annual crops (petunias, lobelias) and perennial ground covers, for example, periwinkle, are suitable as partner plants for the catharanthus. Due to the similarity of the shape and color of flowers of some varieties of catharanthus with balsam, you can get an original combination of these plants in a flower garden.

Katarantus is an unpretentious and very cute flower, which is better known as pink periwinkle, it feels great in the garden on a flower bed, containers, and also in pots on windowsills. The plant is small, compact, branched and, what is important, fast growing and easy to reproduce. But in order for the catharanthus to please the eye with its impeccable flowering longer, you still need to know some rules for caring for it.

Florists who have pink periwinkle growing in the garden know very well that in a rainy, too wet summer, plant growth slows down. A flower that is flooded all the time, if it also grows in too dense soil, can suddenly die due to root decay.

However, you should not bring the earthen coma to dryness. In some plant varieties, lack of moisture leads to leaf curling. The leaves curl up into tubes, and it seems that the flower has died. But don't despair right away. Abundant watering - and within an hour the leaves will unwind again.

So that in rainy weather the catharanthus does not suffer from excessive moisture, do not plant it too crowded. You should also not plant plants in a container too crowdedly: after all, spraying is a little rain.

Once every ten days, water your periwinkle with a special fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizers are suitable for roses. A home flower will thank you for this with a particularly spectacular flowering.

If the catharanthus does not like too wet soil, then, on the contrary, he welcomes high humidity. Spray the flower more often, it is better to do this in winter warm water... Also, take care of ventilation.

If the catharanthus grows in the house, then it should stand in a bright place. The more light the better. In case of a lack of lighting, the stems will stretch, become thinner, the flowers will become smaller, and their number will also decrease. The east and west windows are great places to grow catharanthus. Pink periwinkle is a native of the tropics, so it loves warmth. Indoors, the temperature should not drop below 5-8 degrees. The optimal one is 15-30.

On the street, it is better to accustom the catharanthus to the bright sun gradually. When planting seedlings, think about whether this place will be protected from the cold wind. Drafts and cold winds can kill the plant.

Although the pink catharanthus is a distant relative for our usual periwinkle, but, unlike him, he will not be able to winter in a flower bed in the garden. A flower growing on the street will die with the onset of frost. Therefore, if you want to admire the same variety of catharanthus next year, you need to break the cuttings and root them, transferring them to warm house... Even a room catharanthus in the summer is better to take out to the balcony and put there in a bright place. Let him breathe fresh air.

You need to repot the plant often, every year, because the plant is fast growing. Some even consider this to be his disadvantage. A potted plant that has stretched out over the winter needs to be pruned every spring to help it grow better. If the plant has become too elongated, violating its intended picture by its appearance, then it can be slightly trimmed in the summer. But you need to remember that flowers on a cut stem will appear only after two to three weeks. The main stem will become tree-like.

Although the catharanthus is a perennial (if it grows in the house or at home), it is not worth keeping it at home for more than three years. Better plant rejuvenate by cuttings. Young plants look more impressive. But, if you cut the catharanthus by more than one third, then the flowers and leaves will become much smaller. (With good care, the leaves grow to seven centimeters and the flowers five centimeters.)

Pinch a flower planted on a flower bed as mercilessly as an indoor flower once a week for one and a half to two months. Thanks to such a merciless pinching, the flower bed will be simply gorgeous. After all, flowers appear at the tips of the stalks, in the upper axils of the leaves. The more stems, the more flowers... Although it must be admitted that scientists have bred varieties in which branching is genetically incorporated.

Do not forget that the plant is poisonous. The eighty alkaloids in pink periwinkle are no joke. The skin can become irritated, so it is best to work with gloves or trim with small scissors.

In order for the catharanthus to be beautiful and blooming profusely, we must do the following:

Water sparingly but regularly (do not overflow).
Spray frequently.
Plant the plant in loose soil in a bright place.
Repot every year.
Prune annually in the spring.
Fertilize three times a month in spring, summer and fall.

If you fulfill all these simple requirements for care, then the catharanthus, as a very grateful plant, as a token of gratitude for its care, will definitely decorate your garden and home with its flowers.

Catharanthus seeds can be bought online, you can - in a regular store, or you can collect it yourself from your plant to sow them next year. But, we must honestly admit that only experienced florist... It's all about the temperate climate: in its conditions, they simply do not get tied.

Katarantus is a "fast" flower. Therefore, by the end of summer, he will already cover the earth with a flowering rug.

If periwinkle grew on the street in summer, then before bringing the plant into the room, check if it has been attacked by aphids. Spider mites and scale insects can also attack the flower. If this happened indoors, then the air is too dry for the flower. Spray the plant more often, and remove the pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat with special products. Well, in this case, a soap solution helps, which can also be used to process the leaves without harming the plant. Brown rust can also attack the catharanthus. The leaves are then covered from below with "pustules".

Caring for the catharanthus - as well as for any house plant, you need to observe:

If the leaves become soft, turn yellow and die off, this means that there is too much direct sunlight.
If the tips of the leaves dry and turn yellow, then the plant does not have enough moisture in the air. This happens in winter when the heating is on.
If the yellowed lower leaves fall off, and the rest of the foliage is bright and green, you can not be afraid - this is a natural process.
There are few flowers - cold air... The higher the temperature, the more abundantly the catharanthus blooms.
If the roots cover the whole earth in the pot, then the plant will stop blooming, the leaves will dry out and turn yellow.

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Caring for the catharanthus

Well-lit places are suitable for Katarantus, but without the scorching rays of the sun. An excellent option for a catharanthus would be eastern or western window sills.

On the south window, shading is definitely needed, since the bright sun can provoke burns on the leaves.

In winter, it is recommended to rearrange the plant on the southern windowsill, because due to a lack of light, the shoots stretch out and lose their decorative effect. At this time, additional illumination with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps is welcome.

In summer, the catharanthus will feel comfortable at 20-25 degrees. In winter, the temperature of the content should be reduced to 15-18 degrees.

Since the catharanthus is a representative of the tropics, a strong drop in temperature is destructive for it. Therefore, in winter, the temperature should not drop below 8 degrees.

Katarantus loves fresh air, therefore, when the weather is warm outside, it can be taken out to the balcony, loggia or garden. In this case, it is necessary to choose a place protected from the scorching rays of the sun, rain and drafts. With the first cold snaps in August, the plant should be taken into the house.

The flower tolerates temperature fluctuations relatively well, but it is better to provide it with the most comfortable conditions. Then he will delight with abundant lush flowering.

In spring and summer Catharanthus needs abundant watering - 3-4 times a week. The soil in the pot should always be slightly damp.

In winter the regularity of the procedure is reduced to 1 time per week. Before the next moistening, the top layer of the soil should dry well.

When watering a catharanthus, a balance must be observed. For a plant, both waterlogging, fraught with decay of the roots, and drying out of the earth, which can provoke curling and falling of leaves, are destructive. Therefore, the water from the sump should be poured out 20-30 minutes after watering. The earthen coma must not be allowed to completely dry out.

Water for irrigation should be left to stand for several days, it should be at room temperature.

To plant a catharanthus, you need a nutritious light soil. You can buy ready-made flowering substrate at the store.

When cooking on your own, you should mix sand, peat, turf and humus in equal proportions.

Another option is sod, leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1: 0.5. Before planting, the mixture should be disinfected by spilling it with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The pot must have drain holes. At the bottom, you need to lay out a 4 cm layer of drainage.

Catharanthus grown as annuals are fed once a week. Perennial plants should be fertilized every 2 weeks from March to September.... In the period from October to February, additional feeding is not needed.

The dose should be made 2 times weaker than indicated on the package.

Catharanthus grown as annuals need more frequent feeding than those that are planned to be kept for the next year.

Top dressing should be applied to wet soil after watering... Do not exceed the concentration of fertilizer indicated on the package, as this may cause root burns.

Sometimes you can alternate mineral dressing with organic. As the latter, an ash solution (20 grams per 2 liters of water) is perfect. Once a month, instead of root dressing, you can spray on the leaf. For this, it is recommended to use the drug Epin Extra.

Katarantus prefers high environmental humidity - not less than 60%... To provide such conditions, you can use several methods:

The approach to spraying the catharanthus should be prudent. On the one hand, the plant loves high humidity, on the other hand, it is undesirable to get drops on the flowers. During the flowering period, spraying should be done very carefully.

In winter, in a room with dry air, you can spray the resting pink periwinkle every day, in the morning or in the evening. For this, warm settled water and a fine-grained spray bottle are used.

In the spring, before transplanting, the shoots of the plant should be shortened by 1/3. In this way, the catharanthus can be rejuvenated and a lush flowering bush can be formed.

Cut pieces of catharanthus shoots can be used for reproduction.

Pruning is necessary for the catharanthus to form a compact bush, lush bloom and plant rejuvenation.

Catharanthus, grown as a perennial, is recommended to be pruned in the spring, since during the winter the plant is strongly stretched and loses its decorative appearance. It is recommended to cut the shoots by 1/3. If the plant is strongly stretched in summer, it is recommended to carry out formative pruning by pinching the ends of the shoots. The cut stems will release new buds after a few weeks.

Pruned shoots can be used to propagate periwinkle by cuttings. Although the plant can be grown indoors as a perennial, it is not recommended to keep one specimen for longer than 3 years.

This is due to the fact that the lower leaves on the shoots dry up and fall off, and the flower “bald”, loses its attractiveness and decorative appearance. Young catharanthus, renewed by cuttings, look much more presentable.

Brown rust can affect the catharanthus, which is recognized by the presence of pustules on the back of the leaves.

The damaged parts are removed and the plant is treated with a fungicide such as Fundazol.

Of the pests, aphids, spider mites, and scale insects pose a threat to pink periwinkle.

Pest control can be done by mechanical removal using a soap solution or insecticide treatment: Aktellik, Fitoverm or Nurell-D.

Prevention of the appearance of insects is proper care, in particular, maintaining high humidity.

As a rule, problems with catharanthus arise due to improper care or unfavorable conditions of detention:

The leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, become soft and die off, mainly due to an excess of sunlight;
If few buds appear on the catharanthus, then it is cold. The higher the temperature, the more lush the bloom;
Yellowing and curling of leaves indicates insufficient watering;
Stems stretch out when there is a lack of light;
The tips of the leaves dry out due to the low humidity of the air;
Poor growth and poor flowering indicate a shortage nutrients in the soil;
Catharanthus can shed buds when there is a lack of light or moisture.

Catharanthus propagates by seeds and cuttings.

Seeds are sown in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand to a depth of 0.5 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene and placed in a dark warm (20-24 degrees) place.

After the emergence of seedlings - after 5-7 days - the greenhouse is taken out to a bright place. The earth is moistened as needed.

After 10 days, the film is removed, and after 20-30 days the seedlings are dived into separate pots.

Cuttings, 10-12 cm long, cut in spring and summer. The lower leaves break off, the cut is processed with a root. Cuttings are planted in a mixture of perlite and peat, covered with a film and kept in diffused light at a temperature of 20-22 degrees.

After the reproduction of the catharanthus by cuttings, the film is removed after 3 weeks. After another 7 days, young catharanthus are planted on permanent place... You can plant 2-3 cuttings in one pot.

Periwinkle grows very quickly, so it needs frequent transplants. Young catharanthus require several transfers to new pots over the summer. Those plants that are grown as perennials need an annual spring transplant (in March - early April).

Timely transplantation is the key to good growth and abundant flowering of periwinkle. If the roots cover the entire earthen ball, the buds cease to appear, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. In view of this, timely transplantation is very important for the catharanthus.

The best way to transplant a catharanthus is transshipment... Due to the fact that the earthen ball and roots are not damaged, the plant quickly adapts to new conditions and continues to grow and develop well.

A day or two before the transplant, the periwinkle is not watered so that the earthen lump is strengthened. At the bottom of the new pot is laid good layer drainage from expanded clay, clay shards or broken brick. The plant is moved into a new container, and the free space in it is covered with new soil and slightly compacted.

Before sowing, it is advised to soak the seeds for 40 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram per 0.5 liters of water), then dry them for several hours on a paper towel.

Seeds are sown in bowls or containers filled with a moistened mixture of peat, sand and earth. They deepen by 1-2 cm, after which the soil is slightly moistened with a fine-grained spray gun. The container is covered with an opaque film and placed in a dark place. The optimum temperature for germination is 23-25 degrees.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear in 7-10 days., after which the film is removed, the container is transferred to a well-lit place (without the scorching sun), and the temperature of the content is slightly reduced.

If in the future the catharanthus is grown in a pot, then 2-3 copies are planted in one container filled with a substrate for adult plants. This will make the periwinkle look more lush and attractive. If the planting is done on a flower bed, then the flowers are planted one at a time.

Now you know everything about caring for a catharanthus at home, as well as about growing a plant from seeds from sowing to flowering.

Photo of the catharanthus in the process of care at home and in the natural environment:

Katarantus - care and reproduction at home

Everyone who has seen the catharanthus houseplant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with delightful numerous flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern Mediterranean islands to the house. Its name is from Greek translates as "pure, clear or flawless flower." In this article, you will read about growing and caring for a catharanthus at home. Many gardeners consider him the king of indoor flowering bushes, because the catharanthus pleases its owners with endless flowering almost all year round, and requires minimal care from them after planting.

The catharanthus flower belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and subshrub plants of the Apocynaceae family. In the wild, it can be found everywhere in countries with a tropical climate. These are Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - not to list everything. It is not possible to accurately determine his homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where he is most often found. There are seven or eight of its types. In the subtropics, the catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. As a houseplant, the catharanthus has been bred since the middle of the 18th century.

For a long time, the catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy disputes, botanists began to attribute the pink catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial dwarf shrubs, to a separate genus of Catharanthus.

Indoor flower catharanthus is perennial often grown as an annual. In height at home, it grows no higher than 50 - 60 cm. Its erect stems are fleshy, branch on the tops, and lignify over time. The roots are powerful, pivotal. The central root reaches a depth of 20-30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots with a strong specific odor. Young roots have no root hairs. The leaves of the catharanthus are oblong, pointed at both ends, and up to 7 cm long. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the bush is covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers are 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have correct shape of five petals with a flat corolla, the pharynx of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is an eyelet, usually of a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are single, and in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a magnificent hat is formed from separately flowering flowers that the decorativeness of the flower at this time is above all praise. Long-term flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the fruit of the catharanthus is formed, which is a sickle-shaped two-leafed plant, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorativeness. Its medicinal properties have been known for a long time. Healers and healers in Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, cough, and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Contemporary research showed that this flower actually contains substances that reduce blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of the catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
diseases of the teeth and gums;
broncho-pulmonary diseases;
hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! Side effects, allergic reactions, burns may occur. There are contraindications. It is possible to use preparations from catharanthus only under the supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and in different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular ones.

Katarantus Aristocrat. It is a short bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color scheme is varied - from pure white to dark red. In the middle, a contrasting eye usually sparkles. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating borders on flower beds and paths with it.

Katarantus Pacific. It is a short, compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in diameter of the crown. Characterized early flowering and unpretentious care. The flowers are large, the characteristic peephole in the middle stands out brightly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacific variety has its own varieties:

Pacific Burgundy - has flowers of a rich wine color with a white eye;
Pacific White - has white flowers with a red eye;
Pacific Epricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
Pacific Ice Pink - has flowers of pale pink color with a red eye.

In the eighties of the last century, a number of spectacular new varieties of catharanthus appeared. Here are some of them that are still popular:

Variety series Cooler (Culer). Small, strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, have united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrasting eyelet in the center.

The varieties in this series include the following:

Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
Red Cooler - red flowers.

Variety series First Kiss (First Kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have a beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of flowers. This is the most popular and titled variety of catharanthus. At the flower contests of the countries of North America, the catharanthus of this variety series won prestigious prizes, in particular the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade... Here are the ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either spread or hang down. It blooms with large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this series:

Katarantus ampelous Titan. Long lashes hanging downwards reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers burn brightly on dark green glossy leaves. This variety is great for growing in pots.

White - with snow-white flowers;
Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
Bark Cascade Cherry - with cherry flowers;
Bark Cascade Shelf Dot - with white flowers;
The bark of the cascade Medzhenta - with flowers of a gray-burgundy color.

When growing a catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you grow a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Katarantus is a moisture-loving culture. Abundant flowering directly depends on the sufficiently high humidity of the ambient air and substrate. Catharanthus prefer high air humidity. If the moisture readings fall below 60%, it is necessary to spray the surrounding air and, with care, the plants themselves. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not desirable! To increase the humidity in the room, install containers with water next to the catharanthus plantings, and put the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water the flowers regularly. Drying of the root system must not be allowed! You will immediately recognize about insufficient watering by the curling leaves of the plant. If you quickly notice and pour it soon, they will straighten.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the sump and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water no earlier than the topsoil dries up to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to keep the plant until next year, significantly reduce watering in the autumn-winter period. Keep the earthy ball slightly damp. If the indoor air is dry, spray the leaves continuously.

The plant prefers diffused light. On the windowsills of the eastern and western directions, he will be most comfortable. Although, on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at noon, the catharanthus will feel great. It is not necessary to place the flowerpot on the windowsill itself. It grows well in a small shade and looks great on a shelf illuminated by diffused sunlight. Under the condition of wintering indoors, he also needs good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upward, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is a lack of lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is 20-25 degrees Celsius. It's in spring-summer period for long-term flower maintenance. In winter, it is necessary to find more cool place and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because there is no place for it on the windowsill, next to the heating devices. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not drop at all - its prolonged decrease, below 10 degrees, the catharanthus may not tolerate.

If you are not going to save the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundantly it will bloom. Moreover, the flower feels great outdoors in the warm season. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the pot with catharanthus can be put on a balcony or veranda, preferably under a roof, because flower plantings must be protected from precipitation, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the dwelling. Until October, he will still delight you with his magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Good catharanthus will grow in a loose light fertile soil... Purchased land for flowering indoor plants, for example, for geraniums, is suitable for him. It is also not difficult to prepare a soil mixture on your own from leafy and soddy land, adding a little peat and coarse river sand there.

In order for the flowering of the catharanthus to be long and plentiful, it needs constant, fairly intensive feeding. If your flower is an annual, it is fed once a week by adding liquid fertilizer for flowering houseplants to the water for irrigation. Liquid fertilizer is suitable for indoor roses. But do not overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus after flowering persists as a perennial, its strength must be preserved. Therefore, feeding should be done less often during flowering, once every 2 weeks, and in a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, feeding should be stopped altogether.

Katarantus is a fast-growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will outgrow it very soon, the roots will not fit and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, choose a large pot right away so that it will last for a year of the flower's life. As we wrote above, the root system develops well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Place a good layer of drainage, 3-4 cm, on the bottom of the planting container. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared potting mix. Don't forget to add some humus for nutrition. During the annual transplant of a perennial catharanthus, choose a pot 3 to 5 cm larger and wider each time.

For a fast growing plant like the catharanthus, pruning the shoots is a necessary procedure. In a perennial culture, after a period of winter rest, the shoots that have elongated over the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches, give the bush the desired shape. This pruning at the beginning of spring will rejuvenate the flower and give it strength for new growth.

A compact beautiful crown of a young catharanthus will help to form the pinching of the ends of the shoots. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of side branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But watch out decorative view your pet will have to constantly during flowering. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be removed regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

If you grow catharanthus like a perennial, then it will need an annual transplant in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, light environment. Examine. Make the trim you want. Pick up a pot for transplanting 3 - 5 cm larger than the previous one. Put the drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Do the transplant by transferring the flower along with the ground. Try not to injure the root system. Add to the pot the soil of the same composition in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, the soil is neutral or slightly sourish. Remember this and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to transplant your flower more often than once a year. If, during the active flowering phase, the lower leaves suddenly begin to turn yellow and flowers fall off - Perhaps the root system already does not have enough space in the pot. You can see the roots sticking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a large container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but be careful not to damage the delicate root system when removing the flower. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If you regularly follow all the rules of good flower care, then the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, shoots are clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. It is better to part with him, having taken care of his descendants in advance, that is, about reproduction.

After the enchanting flowering, the powers of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as annual plant, and after the end of its flowering, they are simply thrown away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in the winter, problems with temperature, humidity, lighting of its wintering place, cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower full of strength and desire to bloom without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Buy catharanthus seeds in specialty stores. Their seeds will not have time to ripen during the summer flowering. Their natural maturation is possible only in tropical conditions... If you still set out to get your seeds, be patient. The bush will have to grow all autumn and winter in room conditions, maintaining a constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will ripen, perhaps only by spring.

The seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that the catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, from the point of view of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, it is done in early spring.

The prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The soil is carefully moistened with a spray bottle with warm, settled water, the container lid is closed. You can use any containers that are convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination is best done in a warm, dark place. In a week or two, seedlings will appear. The containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 - 26 degrees Celsius. Ventilate once a day better in the morning... The sprouts sit for a long time, about a month, at the same level - they grow the roots. When three to four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus dive into separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of the young, take at once a pot that is large than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay particular attention to preparing the potting mix. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, sod land and coarse sand in equal proportions. If you will be using ready-made soil, select a substrate suitable for flowering indoor flowers.

For propagation by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots in the catharanthus. Choose a method of rooting the cuttings - in water or in a substrate.

Water for rooting is taken standing or boiled with the addition of some kind of growth stimulant. They put the glass in a bright warm place. They are waiting for the appearance of the root. Water is added as needed. The roots will appear very soon. Then the cutting is planted in a pot with a regular substrate. They take care of them like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under a film. Air the plantings from time to time, water them as the soil dries up. When signs of new growth appear on the handle, the film can be removed. Root the cuttings with a margin, in case they die.

It is best to harvest and plant cuttings in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But it is also possible in the fall. The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings of the catharanthus is 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate a catharanthus by cuttings.

This propagation method is used when transplanting an adult plant into new pots. This usually happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, the catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot, try to gently shake off the soil from the roots. Decide on the place of division of the root system. Use a sharp, well-sanitized instrument to divide the bush. Treat the incision sites with crushed activated carbon. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to the rules.

If you are planting your indoor flower in a flower bed in the country in the summer, then you need to think about how to keep the catharanthus in winter. After all, your sissy will not survive the winter, even a mild one, on the street. Dig up the plant carefully in early October. Cut off the branches two-thirds of the way. Place the flower in a large pot to accommodate the entire root system. Fill the pot up to the top with a mixture of sand and earth. Bring to a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for wintering in an apartment. Let him stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. There is no need to water it in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, you can plant the rhizome of the catharanthus again on the flower bed.

You can always determine by the outward appearance of a plant: is it healthy or something is wrong with it. By its appearance, the Katarantus itself signals the unfavorable conditions of its detention. You need to monitor the plant, and, if necessary, take measures to correct your mistakes.

Let's consider the most common problems of growing a catharanthus.

Small dark bumps or specks appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom - something in the form of pustules. These are symptoms of a disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is the frequent waterlogging of the soil at high humidity. Or, when replanting, heavy or rust-infected soil was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about diseases of indoor flowers). Transplant the treated plant into new soil.
The leaves on the shoots became lethargic, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a windowsill unprotected from the sun. Place the flower in the back of the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
The tips of the leaves turned yellow. This happens when the room is too low humidity air. In winter, this is due to central heating... The pot must be placed in a high pallet with wet expanded clay and set aside from the heating devices. A wide container of water can be placed next to the flower. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. This is a natural process for the catharanthus. Remove them regularly from the plant so that the decorative effect of the flower does not suffer.
There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually occurs when the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, lighter place - and it will thank you with abundant flowering.
Leaves begin to turn yellow, flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if the roots of the catharanthus appeared from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it is time to transplant it into a wider and deeper pot. A little time will pass, and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
Katarantus began to shed the buds. This happens when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil, or when the air humidity is low.
Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it does not have enough moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: is it warm, light, and whether any insects bite him.

We introduced you to indoor flower catharanthus. Believe me, you will spend less time caring for it than reading this article! This is a completely unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to it from the florist. The good thing about Katarantus is that this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring to October. At the same time, it grows rapidly and multiplies easily. Knowing the simple rules of caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your home, ready to decorate the interior of your home all year round.