How to make a warm floor from heating: instructions for connecting from water heating. How to connect underfloor heating to heating in a private house How to connect underfloor heating to existing heating

Providing floor heating during the construction of a private house is not an easy task, but it can be solved. It is much more difficult to make a water-heated floor from the existing heating of a country cottage or apartment. How to properly lay and connect heating circuits with your own hands in a similar situation, read in this article.

Planning and selection of materials

In order to successfully integrate underfloor heating into an existing heating system, you must first solve several serious issues:

1. Obtain permission to connect to the central heating network in the case of an apartment in a multi-storey building.
2. Find out what height can be allocated for the "pie" of floor heating without raising the thresholds of the interior doors.
3. Determine the points of connection to the existing system and rationally select the scheme.
4. Prepare building materials, pipes and plumbing fixtures.

Each item of the preparatory plan is proposed to be considered separately.

Is it possible to connect to the central heating system

It is impossible to simply take and embed heating circuits into common apartment risers. Underfloor heating will take away a significant amount of heat from neighbors, who will file a complaint with management company, and you will get a large fine for unauthorized interference with the network.

Advice. Do not connect to risers at your own risk. Try to get the permit properly issued. If you get an unambiguous refusal, think about electric underfloor heating.

When you can hope for a positive solution to the issue:

• in a new building with individual heating inputs from a common riser passing through technical rooms;
• in an apartment on the first floor with an upper supply of coolant or a separate connection from the basement;
• in the dwelling of the last floor with the lower wiring of the supply line.

With vertical wiring, approval can be obtained by the owner of the upper apartment when the coolant is supplied from below

The idea of ​​an apartment connection is based on the fact that the batteries in your apartment are the last ones. The additional load on the riser in the form of heating circuits will not harm the neighbors. True, an organization - a supplier of heat energy has the right to demand the installation of an individual metering unit and the development of design documentation. Residents of other apartments are problematic to obtain a permit.

Determine the thickness of the "pie"

The main problem when installing water floor heating in a residential building is the small distance from the base of the floor (floor slabs) to the bottom of the doorway. Usually this height is equal to the thickness of the screed and is 6-10 cm. The situation with wooden floors is similar - the width of the log, where the covering boards are laid, lies in the range of 50-150 mm.

An important point. Before making a warm floor in a habitable apartment, existing screed will have to be smashed to the ground, and the wooden flooring will be completely disassembled. Otherwise, the "pie" will not fit, and raising the thresholds of the doors or making a step at the entrance is not a constructive decision.

There is only 1 way to fit the heating circuits into a thickness of 50 mm - to use a flooring system with metal plates - heat distributors, shown in the diagram. The composition of the "pie" will be as follows:

• a layer of dense polymer insulation 30 mm;
• metal plates with grooves;
• heating pipes Ø16 mm;
• thin flooring - laminate or tiles, if we are talking about the bathroom.

Reference. For laying the heat distribution plates, special polystyrene foam mats with lugs or ready-made modules made of wood are used.

Due to the high price of such systems, craftsmen often propose to install plates between boards 2-2.5 cm thick, laid on a layer of 8-10 mm foamed polyethylene (Penofol). We do not recommend implementing such solutions - a small thermal insulation layer will allow the lion's share of heat to pass to the neighbors below or to the basement of a private house.

With a threshold height of 10 cm, monolithic warm floors with a screed are arranged. Polystyrene plates 30-40 mm thick are laid in the base, the remaining 6-7 cm remain under the screed and finish coating.

Scheme of the "pie" of warm floors with a screed

Heating circuit connection diagrams

One of critical issues, which must be decided before starting work, is how to connect a water heat-insulated floor to an existing heating system. We offer the following options:

1. In an apartment with an individual heating input - according to the classical scheme with a mixing unit installed in the hallway. The cabinet with the collector is neatly embedded inside the wall.
2. In a private house, it is advisable to connect directly from a gas or other boiler using a distributor comb and a mixing unit.
3. In apartments with two-pipe risers, connect the circuit of each room directly to the network near the heating radiators. Temperature control is performed by RTL thermal heads.
4. In apartment buildings with single-pipe risers, you cannot do without the installation of mixing units with a circulation pump.

Connection diagram for apartment heat distribution

Note. Connecting underfloor heating to heating mains without a pump and mixing unit can be realized in almost any two-pipe system. How to do this correctly, read below.

The coolant coming from the boiler or from the district heating network has a temperature of 50-90 ° C, which is unacceptable for warm floors. The temperature graph of the heating circuit lies within 35-45 ° С, maximum - 55 ° С (if the pipes are embedded in the screed).

Scheme of connecting underfloor heating to the boiler through a two-way valve

To prepare water of the required temperature, mixing assemblies with a two- or three-way valve and a circulation pump are used that pump the heat carrier through the circuits. In centralized heating systems, it is better to use a scheme with a two-way valve, in individual ones - with a three-way valve.

Reference. The quality of the coolant in the central heating networks is too low - the water is saturated with rust and other impurities. The easier and more reliable it is to select equipment, the longer it will serve without problems.

Connection diagram for underfloor heating to the boiler through a three-way valve

A separate connection of the circuits to two-pipe lines is made through RTL-type thermal heads, which limit the return flow of the heating medium when the leaving water temperature exceeds the set value. Mixing units, manifolds and circulation pumps are not used.

Branch connection diagram without additional pump

To connect a warm floor, it is enough to buy a ready-made block with a thermostatic tap and an RTL head, placed inside a neat plastic box. Similar products are offered by famous brand Oventrop, name - RTL Unibox.

Connection diagram for one-pipe vertical system

An expert will tell you about the various options for connecting floor heating to an existing system in his video:

We select building materials and components

When you have chosen the correct connection scheme, calculate the right amount materials are pretty simple. It is necessary to find out the area of ​​the kitchen, bedroom and other premises where it is planned to install underfloor heating. Plus, choose the layout and the distance between the pipes.

Also, when installing underfloor heating, consumables are used - a damper tape (glued around the perimeter of the room), clips for fastening pipes and a waterproofing film laid under the insulation. A ready-made construction mixture is used for the screed, the consumption of which is indicated on the packaging.

For heating circuits of the "dry" type, you will have to buy polystyrene plates with lugs and heat distribution plates (preferably made of aluminum). Modular wood kits will cost more. A budget option is to lay pipes between ordinary boards 20 mm thick, laid on the insulation with your own hands.

Advice. If the difference in height between the base and doorways is 10-20 cm (for example, on a balcony, loggia), increase the thickness of the "pie" due to the insulation. That is, take not 30, but 50 or 100 mm thermal insulation boards. The result is an increase in the energy efficiency of the premises and savings in heat.

Monolithic underfloor heating installation technology

After dismantling the floor structures - screeds or wooden logs- the base should be cleaned and leveled for the installation of thermal insulation boards. Fill cracks in the ceiling and in the corners with mortar, knock down the bumps and sag. Take out the debris and remove dust as much as possible (ideally with a special construction vacuum cleaner).

Step by step, the technology of installing warm floors in a residential apartment looks like this:

Note. Instead of a waterproofing film, it is allowed to use "Penofol" with a thickness of 4-5 mm, laying it with foil upwards. The canvases are placed without overlap and are glued with aluminum tape.

When using regulation with RTL thermal heads, the length of the pipeline in the circuit should not exceed 60 m, otherwise the room will warm up unevenly. Carry out a tightness test with an operating pressure of 3 bar in a country house and 6-7 bar in an apartment with centralized heating. Maintain indicated pressure for 24 hours.

After making sure that the connections are tight, proceed to filling the screed without emptying the circuits. The minimum thickness of the cement-sand monolith is 5 cm, the maximum is 10 cm. In order not to be mistaken in the proportions during the preparation of the solution, it is recommended to work with a ready-made dry mix for pouring floors containing a plasticizer.

How to properly concrete the floors in the garage, read the detailed instructions.

Further work the connection of warm floors to the existing heating network is carried out after 20-28 days (the exact hardening period is indicated on the bags building mixture). The contours are attached according to the selected scheme, after which the topcoat is laid. The technology for installing floor heating is clearly shown in the video.

Floor heating device without screed

Using a wooden modular system or mats equipped with bosses, it is not difficult to make underfloor heating. The difference from the previous technology is the absence of a cement screed and laying the topcoat directly on the insulation or boards.

There is an easier and cheaper way to accommodate water loops at a height difference of 5 cm:

1. Place 50 mm extruded polystyrene foam boards with side joint locks on top of the waterproofing.
2. Mark the pipe routes on the insulation and cut grooves for them with a thermal knife or a sharp tool.
3. Install metal plates in the grooves and lay the piping.
4. Install laminate or other thin flooring.

The rest of the work on testing and connecting the warm floor to the mains of the existing heating is carried out according to the technology described in the previous section.

Conclusion

Before making underfloor heating inside an inhabited apartment with a working heating system, make sure that it is technically possible to connect and lay pipes in the thickness of the floors. If the height difference between the base and the door opening does not reach 5 cm, 2 options remain: raise the thresholds and door frames or abandon the idea. The decision depends on the desire to arrange a warm floor and the budget that you are ready to allocate for construction.

qustu.com

We connect the warm floor to the heating system through a special module :: Floors. Laminate. Linoleum:

Question: If in a private house a warm water floor is used for comfortable heating (i.e. together with radiators), how can it be connected to the heating system? So that the temperature of the coolant is not higher than 55 degrees? In radiators in frost it is 70-90 degrees. Heating system closed type, with forced circulation. Ordinary gas boiler for 150m2 (house of 100 m2)

Answer: The underfloor heating circuit is connected to the existing heating system through a local module for connecting water floors. One of these modules is shown in the photo. The Oventrop Unibox temperature limiter (mixing block) is designed to connect one water floor heating loop to a radiator heating circuit. You can also make such a module with your own hands from available components.

Consider the operation of the module in the existing underfloor heating system. The most important element in it is the thermal head. when the ambient temperature changes, it turns off or supplies the heat carrier to the circuit of your warm floor. The installation of the module must be carried out on the return, for these purposes an air vent is installed in the module in order to remove air from the underfloor heating circuit.

The module is assembled in a box, so the installation is carried out in a recess in the wall, only the thermostat head should protrude outward to adjust the temperature.

The underfloor heating connection module costs decently (from 3,800 rubles) and it is not always possible to find it, but it can be assembled with your own hands - there is nothing complicated about it, a minimum of locksmith skills and that's it. We select a suitable junction box with dimensions 200 x 300 mm (height should be 300 mm). See photo:

Install the straight radiator valve under the thermal head upwards. From the bottom we screw in a fitting for connecting pipes from the underfloor heating system, at the top we put a half-inch outlet with external and internal threads and screw a half-inch tee onto it. We screw an air vent into the upper branch of the tee, and in the lower branch - a fitting for floor heating pipes. So our module is ready. Using pins and clamps, we attach it to a pre-installed shield.

We connect floor heating pipes in parallel with heating radiators. For the supply and return, we additionally install tees and shut-off valves-taps to prevent emergencies.

Connection diagram: Good luck.

blogstroiki.ru

We make a warm floor from the heating system in a private house and apartment - Repair and construction

Anyone who believes that underfloor heating is a modern invention is very mistaken. For the first time, such heating systems began to be used in very ancient times, several centuries before our era. Of course, in the course of operation, this system has become more perfect and, most importantly, easier to implement. Therefore, today, every homeowner, if desired, can even make underfloor heating on his own, especially if private house already equipped with a heating system.

Connecting underfloor heating to the heating system

Depending on what kind of heating system is used in the house, in each of the specific cases the connection of the warm floor will have its own characteristics.

Let's consider the most common options:

• Double-circuit system. This is the most ideal system in terms of connecting a warm floor. In order to make the connection, it is enough to connect the underfloor heating circuit to the supply and return lines of the heating system. This can be done both using a module and through two ball valves.
• Single-circuit system. In this case, a circulation pump is used, which is installed on the supply line, and after it, the underfloor heating circuit. In this case, on the return line, the warm field circuit must be connected upstream of the pump. As in the first case, the control of the system operation is carried out using a module or ball valves.

• Gravitational system. It is the most difficult in terms of connecting a warm floor, since it uses the natural slope of the pipes in its action. In order not to spend a lot of time and effort on the implementation of such an installation, it will be more practical to cut a circulation pump into the system and connect the system, as in the second option.

How to make a warm bathroom floor from heating

Before proceeding with the insulation of the bathroom floor, there are a few things to consider.

Important nuances:

• For high-quality installation, it is better to give preference metal-plastic pipes, since ordinary plastic ones may not withstand the load. The pipes are laid according to the selected scheme and covered with a cement screed, only the outlets for connection to the general system remain open.
• Due to the temperature difference between the general heating system (75-90 degrees Celsius) and underfloor heating (up to 40 degrees Celsius), it is necessary to additionally install a heat pump, with the help of which the active circulation of water will be carried out with a rapid decrease in its temperature.
• It is important to decide where exactly the technical cabinet with all the components will be installed, and what dimensions it should have.

According to the operating instructions for underfloor heating, pipes can be laid in several ways, including in a spiral, snake or double zigzag.

Each of these options has both pros and cons, but the snake option is considered the most universal way for rooms with a small area, including bathrooms.

The organization of work on the installation of a warm floor in the bathroom consists of the following steps:

• Preparation. Work begins with cleaning the base where the heating circuit will be installed. Isolation of the selected area is also carried out, due to which it will be possible to significantly reduce heat consumption.
• Installation of the reinforcement base. Such a simple design will significantly increase the rigidity of the circuit and help to achieve an ideally even level, which in turn will ensure effective circulation of the coolant.
• Installation of the circuit. Pipes with a diameter of 20 millimeters are laid according to the project. The floor temperature controller is also being installed. The pipes are laid with a certain pitch, which for bathrooms should be 10 centimeters. To reduce heat loss, the compensating elements are laid out along the line of the room breakdown, and the heating system must be checked for leaks.

• Installation of a temperature regulator, shut-off valves at the entrances to the pipeline and a manifold box.
• System pressure testing. First, the underfloor heating circuit is connected to the heating system, and only then the concrete screed is made. Thus, the likelihood of pipe damage due to significant mortar load is reduced.
• Concrete screed. To fill the screed, the most common mortar of cement and sand is used. The only thing that is important to keep track of during the formation of the floor is that all the leads are on the surface and are not poured with concrete.
• A couple of days after pouring, you can start laying the flooring.
• Launching and debugging a new element of the heating system.

The installation of a warm floor in the bathroom does not present any particular difficulties, including it does not bear large financial or time costs. While the advantages of this type of heating are abound, ranging from saving money for utility bills and ending with a more comfortable and cozy atmosphere in the house.

remontiks.com

How to connect a warm floor to heating

Installation and connection of water floor heating to the water heating system in the house is possible both at the stage of construction and planning, as well as to an existing and functioning heating circuit. Before making a warm floor from heating, it is necessary to correctly calculate its estimated performance, take into account the peculiarities of combining the radiator circuit and the additional pipeline, as well as other parameters. Installation on a wooden base must be carried out taking into account the operating conditions of the topcoat.

Fact! For the implementation of such a system, both a single-pipe line and a two-pipe line are suitable, and it can be used both in an apartment and in a private house, including a wooden one. Constant circulation hot water will provide a special pump that will significantly increase the efficiency of heating and return of the coolant through the return pipes. The contour of the underfloor heating system can be designed by yourself, taking into account the basic principles of pipe arrangement. With correct and high-quality installation, proper operation of the boiler and general thermal insulation, this heating method will become an effective replacement for batteries.

Connection and installation of a water floor in an apartment

In accordance with the regulated norms, unauthorized unauthorized connection of water floor heating in an apartment to central heating is prohibited. An unauthorized do-it-yourself insert is fraught with irreversible consequences in terms of high-quality heating of neighboring apartments from below or from above, depending on the principle of hot water supply in the hot water central heating system. Connecting an additional structure to central heating can damage the overall hydraulics of the entire multi-storey building. If there is an autonomous hot water heating in the apartment, which is connected to the boiler, the permission of the utilities is not needed. This applies to houses old building, in new buildings it is possible to connect water floor heating.

Connecting underfloor heating to individual heating

The types of connection for water underfloor heating depend on the general heating scheme, there are such systems:

• One-pipe;
• Two-pipe;
• Gravitational.

To connect a structure to an individual heating system in a private house or in an apartment, it is necessary to correctly design the contour of the structure, take into account the distance between the turns and the distance from the boiler, as well as the estimated location of furniture or other decorative and interior elements. It is recommended to position the contour under an open, unoccupied floor surface.

In a private house, this type of heating is usually installed during overhaul when reinforcement and grouting of floors is carried out. On a wooden floor, laying a water heating structure is also possible if there is a frame made of additional logs and a new coating. It should be noted that installation on a wooden base provides for effective thermal insulation on the underside of the structure. Also styling on wooden frame must ensure an even distribution of the generated heat, for which recesses can be equipped in the logs for the location of the pipeline.

One-pipe water heating system, the so-called "Leningradka", is considered one of the simplest and less costly designs. Such a scheme and its installation provides for the presence of one line for hot water, the circuit in this case only increases its total length. The operation of the unit is ensured by a circulation pump, without which the heating efficiency is insufficient. The presence of a boiler in a private house, in which a similar pump is mounted, also does not guarantee that the circuit will be as efficient as possible. For high-quality circulation of hot water through the pipes, the pump should be installed approximately in the middle of the line. In this case, the underfloor heating circuit must have a connection after the pump, and the return flow - after it. The control is carried out using special regulators that are installed on the open part of the pipeline. The circuit connected to a one-pipe heating system should not exceed 20 - 30 m. Otherwise, the efficiency of its operation is noticeably reduced. Special attention should be given to the location of the underfloor heating mixer, which is also installed on the open part of the structure.

A two-pipe heating scheme is considered the most optimal for connecting and functioning underfloor heating. A two-pipe radiator heating system provides for separate pipelines for return and hot water supply, connected to the main boiler. In this case, it is possible to connect the underfloor heating system in one place on the open part using a mixer module or conventional ball valves, which will provide the necessary water flow through them.

Important! The two-pipe type of connection can ensure the normal functioning of the underfloor heating circuit, the length of which does not exceed 50 m.

The gravity circuit provides for the natural circulation of water through the pipeline. The water floor heating circuit must be connected to such a circuit, taking into account the slope of the line. You need to connect the system at one end of the room, and output the return flow at the other. Do-it-yourself installation and connection to such a system is a very time-consuming process that requires special knowledge.

You should also choose the right pipe diameter for both connecting the battery and underfloor heating. The size of the pipes of the main line connected to the boiler must be at least 32 mm.

The layout of the pipeline can be performed according to the principle:

• "Snakes";
• Spirals.

The diameter of the pipe for laying underfloor heating, when a one-pipe or two-pipe heating scheme is installed, should not exceed 18 mm.

You can connect a water-heated floor with your own hands, while observing the basic requirements for the installation of such structures. Using this heating method will allow you to abandon the open radiator heating circuit, which is also permissible in a private wooden house. In case of insufficient external insulation of the building or an uninsulated wooden base, it is recommended to use the two heating principles together, depending on the efficiency of the boiler. The installation algorithm, which determines how to make a warm floor from heating, should provide for testing operation with an open system that is not flooded cement screed... The final formation of the floor covering in the house is possible after a certain period of time, making sure that the structure is intact and there is no leakage.

Systems of "warm floors" are rapidly gaining popularity among owners of private suburban housing and city apartments, and many of them have a question: "How to make a warm floor from heating." This is not surprising - such a scheme of heat exchange in a room is the most efficient and economical - heated air from the floor evenly rises up, creating an optimal comfortable temperature distribution without the formation of horizontal convection currents.

There are many schemes for underfloor heating - they are, that is, with laying pipes for circulating a liquid coolant, and electrical, in which various heating schemes are used from the power supply. Due to the fact that electricity cannot be called cheap, many homeowners pay particular attention to the "water" scheme. Moreover, the owners of city apartments are tempted to use the possibilities of the central heating circuit laid in the house, therefore, in the search engines of the Internet in the top of queries, the following is always encountered: “how to make a warm floor from heat”.

Unfortunately, many articles on this topic begin with the most optimistic prospects drawn to the reader, for example - "the device of such a warm floor is not difficult and can be done on their own." Is it so? Practice shows that the equipment of such a system will require the application of considerable forces to overcome a variety of problems, both of a purely technological and administrative nature.

The purpose of this publication is not so much a step-by-step instruction on self-equipping a water "warm floor" system from heating, but an overview of all difficult issues in the implementation of this project with options for their possible resolution. Having estimated the scale of the work, the nature of the upcoming difficulties and their own strengths, it is likely that some apartment owners will decide in favor of a much easier installation.

Administrative difficulties

First of all, it is necessary to dwell on the fact that administrative barriers can interfere with the equipment of such a "warm floor" with a connection to central heating.

The central heating system is calculated taking into account the power of the boiler room, the throughput of heating mains, the piping system in multi-storey buildings, the number and total area of ​​heated apartments and many other factors. The insertion of additional heating circuits, especially those of considerable length, will certainly affect the general parameters of the system. It is good if the power of the boiler room and the possibilities of wiring allow you to compensate for heat losses, but this does not always happen. Thus, residents of apartments connected to the same riser may feel a decrease in the temperature of heating radiators, which will lead to complaints about the work of utilities.

Therefore, the installation of additional underfloor heating circuits requires mandatory approval from the organization that provides heat supply to the apartment building, and it is not a fact that it will go for it. Of course, there are always “smart people” who can connect “like a pirate”, without notifying the specialists of housing and communal services, but sooner or later this is revealed and ends with the imposition of considerable penalties.

As a rule, permission can be given if the apartment is located at the very end of the heating circuit. For example, with a heat supply scheme upwards, there should not be any special problems for the owners of apartments on the highest floor - the withdrawal of additional heat energy will not affect other residents of the house in any way. Conversely, when an overhead heat supply is applied, this advantage will be given to the owners of the apartment on the ground floor. But in both cases, the heat supply organization, for sure, will require the installation of an additional metering device for heat energy, for individual calculation of payment for its consumption.

Management or heat supply organizations can also meet halfway if the apartment heating system uses not a common heat carrier, but energy transfer carried out through a special device- heat exchanger. In this case, the “warm floor” circuit becomes autonomous to a certain extent, but the metering device for the consumed heat will nevertheless still be required.

Only the owners of apartments with an autonomous heating system, that is, those who disconnected from the central network and installed their own gas or electric boiler and closed loop not communicating with the outside. This, of course, means that the installation of your own heat generator (boiler) and "autonomy" have already received the appropriate agreement in advance. But even in this case, considerable difficulties are to be faced, only now of a technological nature. This will be discussed below.

Possible solutions for laying pipes "underfloor heating"

If problems conciliatory character is no more, then it is necessary to resolve issues with the system for laying the contours of the "warm floor". Here you will have to face a lot of nuances - assessing the possibility of raising the floor level and additional load, purchasing high-quality components, creating reliable thermal insulation, choosing a laying scheme and floor covering technology over pipes. About everything - in order.

How much will the floor surface rise?

This factor should be taken into account in advance, even before the start of all subsequent work. The system of a water "warm floor" itself implies reliable thermal insulation of the base so that expensive energy does not go to waste, just for heating the floor slabs between floors.

For apartments located above heated rooms, a layer of 30 mm of standard insulation (for example, extruded polystyrene) is considered sufficient. In the case when such heating is mounted on the first floor, under which there is a cold basement or basement room, or soil, a layer of at least 50 mm, and sometimes up to 100 mm, will be required.

Installation of a "warm floor" always leads to a significant increase in the height of the coating

But that's not all. The thickness of the screed should be added, which will cover the pipes and be a powerful accumulator of thermal energy. That is, it is necessary to add at least another 50 mm. Plus to this - the thickness of the finish floor covering. This adds up to a general rise in the surface level. Based on this result, it is possible to assess whether it is realistic to perform it in an apartment.

It is possible to do without a concrete screed, thereby reducing the height of the floor rise.

For this, a system of pipes laying in heat-exchange metal plates is used, which are installed in ready-made wooden modules, rack or lag structures, or in thermal insulation mats.

One of the options for placing the plates is on laths

In this case, the heat transfer is certainly somewhat reduced, but this is an inevitable price to be paid for saving space.

In any case, a certain rise in the level of the surface cannot be avoided. If the "warm floor" system is planned only in separate rooms, then this will lead to the formation of steps in the apartment, which is not very convenient in everyday life - a similar factor must also be borne in mind.

Thermal insulation mats

So, as already mentioned, the laying of "warm floor" pipes will require preliminary thermal insulation of the surface. Rolled polyethylene foam, even with foiling, will clearly not be enough (with rare exceptions), and usually special mats are used for this purpose. They are of several types:

• Flat polystyrene foam mats with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm with a foil coating and, ideally, with a laminate layer, on which a marking grid is applied, which makes it easier to lay pipes according to the developed scheme.

To fix pipes to such mats, special clamps are used - "harpoons", or, when pouring reinforced screed, pipes are attached to reinforcement mesh with the help of polymer clamps - "ties". In addition, special mounting rails can be used for convenience.

• Expanded polystyrene profile mats with special bosses, the location and height of which allows you to reliably fix the pipes in a given position.

Such mats with a laminated coating and a system of locks for mutual conjugation are especially convenient - they create a single surface that no longer requires additional waterproofing.

Such mats are made of high density polystyrene foam (more than 40 kg / m³), ​​which guarantees withstanding the loads both from the poured screed and arising during operation. The standard dimensions of one such profile panel are 1.0 × 1.0 or 0.6 × 0.8 m. Thickness varies (without accounting the height of the lugs) within 5 ÷ 50 mm, the permissible pipe-laying step is 50 mm or more (multiples of 50).

Such mats give one more advantage - their complex relief structure, along with the physical characteristics of expanded polystyrene, give an excellent sound-absorbing the effect.

Prices for mats for warm water floor

Mats for warm water floor

What pipes are optimal for "warm floor"

Pipes in the underfloor heating system are mounted with an eye to a long period of use, during which their regular revision will be simply impossible. That is why the choice of them should be treated with special care. What requirements should they meet:

• Suture pipes are unacceptable - they will not guarantee the safety of the circuit when the pressure in it rises.
• For the same reason, any joints in the circuit should be avoided - this place is vulnerable to both blockages and leaks.
• Pipes must have the necessary margin of safety - the load on them both from the coolant side and the external one, from the severity of the screed, floor covering and dynamic loads, lies on them. One should be guided by the indicator of resistance to pressure not lower than 8 ÷ 10 bar.
• Pipes must have the highest performance corrosion resistance, resistance to the formation of scale deposits, chemical inertness. The "scourge" of pipelines is oxygen diffusion, and the choice of material with a special protective layer from this process will be optimal.
• Not everyone can like the noise of the water flowing through the pipes. This means that the pipes must also have an appropriate level of sound insulation.
• Diameter - usually 16 or 20 mm pipes are used. Underreporting will lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance and a decrease in heat transfer, and excessively thick pipes will significantly increase the thickness of the screed and lead to significant heat loss in the general heating system.
• Pipes should be purchased in one solid piece for the circuit, the length of which, with a diameter of 16 mm, should not be more than 60 - 80 meters. If this value is exceeded, a "closed loop" effect may appear in the circuit, when the pressure created by the circulation pump cannot cope with the internal hydraulic resistance. If this length is not enough to cover the entire area of ​​the room, you will have to organize two or more separate circuits from one collector.

Which pipes are preferable for a "warm floor":

• Reinforced-plastic pipes are excellent for the "warm floor" system, but with minor reservations. Must be applied for real quality material, since there are frequent cases of rupture of the pipe body from excessive pressure. The problem, in fact, lies not at all in the unreliability of the design itself, but in the fact that the building materials market is oversaturated with low-quality fakes that do not stand up to criticism. In pursuit of a low price, it is easy to get into a very unpleasant situation here - something that is easily eliminated, for example, on a water supply system, can have disastrous consequences when a low-quality pipe is located in the floor.

Another remark - the aluminum layer, in general, although it is resistant to corrosion, nevertheless, over time, under the influence of oxygen, gradually loses its qualities, becoming brittle. This significantly reduces the service life of such pipes. Therefore, when choosing a material, it is best to focus on its variety with a special oxygen barrier.

• Recently, XLPE pipes began to hold the leading position in this area. The process of special processing of the polymer - "crosslinking" creates additional three-dimensional intermolecular bonds, which at the output gives excellent indicators of strength and flexibility of the pipe. Pipes with markings are optimal. PE-Xa, in which the degree of "crosslinking" reaches 80 - 90%. It is even better if the "EVON" layer is included in the pipe structure - it almost completely blocks the possibility of oxygen diffusion.

In addition, some manufacturers reinforce PE-Xa pipes with a layer of overlapped aluminum, and such products become ideal for use in heating systems - they withstand the most critical loads.

• Corrugated stainless steel has recently begun to compete with polymer pipes. They have excellent flexibility, and the outer and inner layers of polyethylene cover make them practically absolutely impenetrable.

Such pipes are produced in coils up to 50 meters, but they have such a reliable fitting system that it is allowed to build them up even when the joints are closed with a concrete screed.

What "pattern" of styling to choose

When drawing up laying schemes, one of two main methods is usually used with possible variations - "snail" or "snake".

The "snail" or double "snake" schemes shown in the right figure are a little more difficult to install, but they provide a more uniform heating of the floor surface, since the supply and return pipes are located parallel each other.

The pipe laying step can be different - it all depends on how insulated the room itself and the effect expected from such a heating system. Usually, the location of the turns at a distance of 100 mm is considered the norm. You can create areas of increased heating by shortening this step, or, conversely, in those places where special heating is not required, significantly increase the distance.

Be that as it may, all the ends of the circuits are reduced to one point - to the installation site of the distribution manifold, which will be discussed below.

Prices for water pipes and fittings

Water pipes and fittings

Features of connecting the "warm floor" circuits to the existing heating system

The owner of the apartment is deeply mistaken, who believes that the contours of the "warm floor" are simply enough to cut into the heating risers of the house - the supply and the "return". Such an approach is simply impossible based on a number of considerations:

• Water in narrow and long circuits will never start independent circulation - it will choose the path of least hydraulic resistance. So it becomes required element circulation pump
• In order to ensure the movement of the coolant with effective heat transfer, a pressure equalization device in the system is needed, which will exclude stagnation or, conversely, the appearance of the effect of water hammer.
• A retraction system is imperative accumulating in the air system.
• The heat carrier in the central system is not always clean, and in order to prevent clogging of the “warm floor” circuits, it is necessary to install filters.
• One of the main reasons is the need for a mandatory decrease in the temperature of the coolant. The water in central heating pipes can be heated to very high limits, sometimes reaching even 80 degrees, which absolutely inapplicable for the "warm floor" system. Overheating of the surface the most negative will affect the integrity of the screed and thermal insulation layer and the condition of the floor finish. Also, too heat surface will create absolutely uncomfortable furnishings in the apartment. Practice shows that the optimal value of heating the coolant for a warm floor is a temperature of 35 - 40 °, and it is not recommended to exceed it. This means that a special mixing unit is needed, which will mix water from the supply and return to achieve the desired level of its heating.

• Of course, all this requires the installation of visual control devices and adjustment of parameters, manual or automatic.
• And, finally, not a single heat supply organization will give permission for any connection if all the safety rules for the operation of the system, its efficiency in terms of the consumption of thermal energy are not observed, if it at least to some extent interferes with the normal operation of central heating the whole building.

Amateur activities in such matters are not encouraged - there are several basic connection schemes, which are developed on the basis of carefully carried out heat engineering and hydraulic calculations.

For example, when connecting "underfloor heating" collectors at the final section of the riser (first or last floor, as mentioned earlier), the diagram shown in the figure is usually used. It provides for:

• An inlet valve with a mandatory filter - "dirt collector" (1).
• Valve on the return pipe of the circuit with check valve (2).
• Three-way valve - mixer (3) with manual or servo-driven regulation.

If control is carried out in automatic mode, then it is connected to the temperature sensor - the control signal is shown in the diagram with a green dashed line.

• Circulating (4) with a capacity corresponding to the total length of the circuits connected to the collectors.
• To equalize the required pressure difference in the supply and return pipes, a bypass valve (5) is installed.
• On the "combs" of both collectors must be air vents(6) and drain taps (7) to drain the coolant for maintenance or repair work.

In the case when the underfloor heating system cuts directly into the coolant supply pipes (permission has been obtained for this, or under conditions of an autonomous home heating network), the schemes should be somewhat different:

Recommended schemes for connecting "warm floor" to heating risers

• In the diagram "a" shows the connection using a two-way valve (2) connected to a thermostat. The tap regulates only the total water supply, without mixing, increasing or dying the head and, consequently, the rate of heat transfer. General adjustment is carried out by balancing valves (3 and 4). Pressure equalization is carried out by a bypass valve (8).
• Scheme "B" exit from the first, and differs only in the presence of a direct bypass (jumper) between the manifolds (8) with a valve designed to be triggered when the permissible pressure in the supply pipe is exceeded.
• On the image "v" a pipe connection unit with a three-way valve (11) installed on the return line is presented, which redirects the flow of chilled liquid to the supply line. This scheme is one of the simplest, but at the same time it is enough reliable.
• Similar to it, but more perfect and easy to adjust - the scheme "G" ... Here, a three-way mixer (9) is placed on the supply pipe, which provides direct mixing of hot and chilled water before entering the circulation pump (1).
• The scheme is considered the most perfect "D" with a four-way valve mixer, with manual adjustment, or equipped with a servo-drive connected to the thermostat block.

Such a divorce gives the most accurate indicators of adjustments, both for the temperature of the coolant and for the liquid in the "warm floor" circuits.

• And finally, in the figure "E" shows the previously mentioned connection diagram of the "warm floor" to the central heating system through the heat exchanger (14). A characteristic feature is the mandatory presence of its own safety group (12), which includes its own control pressure gauge, an overpressure valve and air vent, as well as the installation of an expansion tank of the diaphragm principle of operation (13), which will compensate for the inevitable pressure drops.

To ensure the necessary replenishment of the coolant, a jumper (15) with a mud filter, a shut-off valve and a check valve can be installed.

If several "warm floor" circuits are connected in parallel to the collectors, another problem arises - the uneven flow of the coolant in them. Sometimes it even ends up with hydrostatic "locking" - the liquid stops moving along one of them altogether, choosing its path with the least resistance. This, of course, can be fought by observing the precisely verified equal length of all contours, but in practice it is extremely difficult to implement this. There is only one way out - regulating valves are installed on the manifolds on each circuit, which allow balancing the total flow so that it is evenly distributed.

Shut-off and control valves on collector "combs"

In addition, such shut-off valves make it possible to turn off some heating zones if they are not needed or in the event of emergency situations - for preventive maintenance or repairs.

Is it possible to assemble such a system of routing, mixing and fine adjustment by yourself? Perhaps, if the owner of the apartment has the necessary knowledge in this area, he can succeed, but most often the help of a qualified specialist will be needed - commissioning works on such interdependent circuits will require a professional approach.

But in order to facilitate the installation of a "warm floor" from heating as much as possible, equipment manufacturers offer ready-made integrated solutions - mixing and manifold assemblies of various designs with already assembled elements, including a circulation pump, and a system of mixers and taps, and instrumentation, and blocks of automatic or manual control. Thus, the owners of the apartment, after consulting with experts, choose the most appropriate option, which is most suitable for the specific installation conditions and suits at its cost. The choice is quite large - such units are made both for small rooms and those capable of optimally distributing the coolant flows over large areas.

As a rule, a manifold cabinet is provided for such mixing units, which can be completely hidden in a niche cut in the wall. The place is chosen from considerations of maximum simplification of the wiring of the "warm floor" pipe system, access to the supply and return pipes of the central heating system. With small heating areas and small sizes of the unit itself, it is sometimes located directly on the outer wall.

The process of laying and connecting pipes, launching the "warm floor" system

Laying the contours of pipes "warm floor" is usually done in following sequence:

• An audit of the condition of the subfloor is carried out. If necessary, its defects are eliminated - cavities and cracks are sealed with a repair solution, protruding places are cut down to a flat surface. After cleaning up the debris and dusting, you need to go through a deep penetration primer - it will increase the strength of the base, create an additional waterproofing barrier.
• A layer of waterproofing film with a thickness of at least 200 microns is covered. It should be 150 ÷ ​​200 mm on the wall surface. Adjacent strips are overlapped with an overlap of 150 mm, the resulting seams are glued with durable construction tape.
• A damper tape is attached along the entire perimeter of the wall, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the future screed that closes the pipes of the heating circuits. The lifting height of the tape on the walls must correspond to the planned thickness of the screed plus another 20 ÷ 30 mm.
• Thermal insulation mats are laid. It is also advisable to glue their joints with waterproof tape. If polystyrene foam is not equipped with a reflective foil layer, it is also necessary to lay a thin foil backing made of polyethylene foam.
• The pipes are laid out according to a previously developed scheme. They begin the layout from the manifold cabinet, and here it should end. To ensure the connection of the pipe to the manifold, the necessary margin must be left.
• If profile mats are used, then the pipes are fixed between the bosses. With flat panels of insulation, plastic clips and mounting strips are used. Alternatively, the pipes can be tied to the reinforcement mesh. Such actions are best carried out with an assistant, who, as the coil is unwound and laid out, will immediately fix the pipe in the right place.

Laying the contour of the "warm floor"

• Both outputs of each circuit are hermetically connected to the corresponding manifold in the switch cabinet.

• The next step is to check the tightness of the system. For this, it is carried out - all circuits and elements of the mixing cabinet are filled with water under operating pressure. If it is possible to use compression equipment, then the pressure should even be increased in one and a half - two times. The filled system must stand in this position for at least a day, during which the readings of the pressure gauges are monitored and, visually, the condition of the pipes and all fitting or threaded connections is carried out. If a leak or pressure drop is detected, the necessary repair measures are taken and the pressure testing process is repeated. Only with a stable positive result, you can proceed to closing the contours of the "warm floor" with a screed.

Closing the "warm floor" with a coupler

• performed in the usual way - with reinforcement, placing a system of beacons. Use concrete mortar brand strength not lower than M200 with fine-grained sand. The addition of a plasticizing composition is highly desirable, which will facilitate the laying of the solution in difficult places (near pipes and on protrusions mounting plates or embossed mats), will help to avoid the formation of air voids - they can not only reduce the strength of the coating, but also worsen the thermal characteristics of the created heating system.

The thickness of the screed must be at least 50 mm. Too thick layer will upset the thermal balance and will become an unnecessary load on both pipes and ceiling. The insufficient thickness of the screed will not ensure the safety of the contours from dynamic loads, and will not allow it to cope with the role of the heat accumulator.

Before pouring concrete, pipes must be filled with a coolant in order to prevent deformation of their walls with an increase in weight load.

Until the screed is completely dry (3 - 4 weeks, depending on the type of solution used), it is forbidden to increase the temperature of the coolant in the system - the screed must gain strength in a stable temperature regime.

Completely dry concrete surface will be the basis for laying any type of finishing floor covering.

Video: option of a screed over the pipes of the "warm floor"

If the use of "concrete" technology is impossible (because of too much of the concept of floor level or because of the inadmissibility of a large load on the ceiling), it is recommended to lay the "warm floor" in wooden modules using heat transfer plates, which were already mentioned above.

Laying "warm floor" pipes in wooden modules

Similar plates can also be applied to profile mats, if they are selected in full accordance with the pipe diameter and the distance between the bosses.

A similar installation can be carried out on profile mats ...

Alternatively, even in conventional extruded polystyrene foam mats, grooves can be cut for the installation of heat transfer plates, followed by laying pipes in them.

... or even directly on the EPS panels

On such a surface, after crimping, you can immediately install the floor finish. If laminate flooring is planned, then only a polyethylene foam backing will be needed. In the case when linoleum will be laid on the floor or tiles are laid, a layer of plywood (OSB, GVL) is first spread over the metal plates, and only then the finishing coating is installed.

And, finally, the features of starting the "warm floor" system from heat. In no case should you run it at full capacity right away. Commissioning should be carried out in steps, with a smooth rise in the temperature of the coolant to the calculated one. It is recommended to stretch this process for 3 - 4 days.

What is the conclusion from all of the above? Is it possible to call the process of creating a warm floor from an existing heating system simple, which anyone can undertake? Probably not. Should

• flexible structure is convenient for creating any turns and curves;
• complete freedom in the form of styling (strip, square, L-shaped);
• the increased power of 330 W allows the element to be used as the main heating in the room;
• easy installation in a concrete screed;
• weight of only 1.7 kg is convenient for transportation;
• two cables in the structure give more heat;
• interact with both electronic and mechanical thermostats.

• the thermostat is purchased separately;
• suitable only for tiles.

Electric underfloor heating Devi 330 W

Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

This is the best underfloor heating from a heating cable for a large room, which has a length of 60 meters and allows you to heat 7 m2, which is effective in front of the bed and TV or in another frequently accessed place. The product is delivered in a coil, and the heating element is provided with an insulating cover. gray... In addition, a tape is included to fix the cable in a certain shape. A power of 850 W allows the use of warm floors as the main source of heating.

• can be put in a screed or tile adhesive;
• it is allowed to use the cable under parquet, stone, tiles, carpet;
• interacts with various thermostats;
• light weight 2.5 kg will not complicate delivery;
• two cores inside provide increased heat transfer;
• thick insulation layer protects against electric current.

• can not be laid under linoleum;
• the connection cable has a large cross-section and is more difficult to hide unnoticed next to the outlet.

Electric warm floor Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

This is the best underfloor heating made of mats for a loggia, because its width allows you to cover a long area up to 6 m with a width of 500 mm. The cable is laid on a foil base and attached to the mesh for easy unfolding. The 450 W power is optimal for maintaining a comfortable temperature on the balcony. The set includes a wire for connection, a sleeve and corrugated protection. The thickness of 5 mm does not require a large layer of assembly glue.

• cold end 4 m long for connection;
• internal Teflon insulation;
• aluminum foil for screening;
• heating to a temperature of 90 degrees;
• certified by all GOST, CE standards;
• installation in tile adhesive is easier;
• two cores inside for greater efficiency;
• suitable for tiles, porcelain stoneware, parquet boards, carpet.

• it is more difficult to cut the mat to separate the area.

Electric heat-insulated floor Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

Equation 1260 W, 9 m2

This is the best warm floor for arranging a children's room due to the power of 1260 W, which allows you to use the mat as the main heating and will prevent children from catching colds from playing on the floor. The cable is supplied in a green insulating sheath on a white mesh with a cold lead for connection and corrugated protection. They can heat up to 9 m2, which corresponds to most children's bedrooms.

• two cores for increased heat transfer;
• weight 3 kg;
• power supply from a household network 220 V;
• laying without screed in tile adhesive;
• closes 9 m2 at once;
• suitable for interaction with programmable thermostats;
• can be laid under parquet boards, laminate, linoleum, porcelain stoneware.

• a good thermostat is necessary, which clearly monitors the duration of the switch-on, so that the increased heating power does not lead to a fire.

Equation electric floor heating 1260 W, 9 m2

Caleo Grid 220W 3 m2

These are the best underfloor heating films for heating a bathroom, because the technology is completely fireproof and designed to work under the tiles. The foil covers an area of ​​3 m2 and may be cut in 25 mm increments for shortening if necessary. Thin strips of carbon paste are laid on an anti-spark grid to prevent arson. Film power 660 W is optimal for heating small room and economical consumption of electricity.

This is the best element for creating a water heated floor with an existing gas or solid fuel boiler, which allows you to lay a pipe throughout the entire area of ​​the house without a single joint. The corrugated pipe bends easily under different angles, which is convenient for turns, steps and level drops. Stainless steel does not corrode, so it can be safely poured into a concrete screed and not be afraid of leaks.

• the annealed steel has a high fracture toughness and can withstand a pressure of 21 bar;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 17 W (m * K);
• the inner diameter of the pipe is 14 mm and the outer diameter of 15 mm is optimal for the throughput and fast circulation of the carrier;
• working temperature up to 150 degrees with short-term exposure even to 400 degrees;
• complete fire safety;
• lifetime warranty for the pipe itself;
• high flexibility of the material with the setting of any geometry;
• not afraid of freezing and does not burst in unheated rooms;
• corrugated structure withstands water hammer well.

• needs many details additional equipment(manifolds, water pump, thermostat, couplings);
• pressure testing is required before pouring the screed, because subsequent repairs are complicated by limited access.

This is the best water underfloor heating as an economical option for arranging individual heating in an apartment. The pipe is made of cross-linked polyethylene and is equipped with a protective layer that acts as an oxygen barrier, which contributes to a long service life.

• good flexibility allows you to lay the pipe with different bends;
• a European fitting fits well on it, suitable for collectors of any manufacturers;
• protective barrier layer;
• bending radius 80 mm;
• outer diameter of 16 mm is convenient for covering with floor materials;
• 12mm inner diameter is optimal for circulation.

• requires the purchase of a separate fitting for connection, manifolds, pump;
• when laying, creases are possible, which will have to be corrected by heating with a hairdryer, so as not to form an obstruction for the wearer;
• needs crimping;
• so that no bumps appear on the surface of the screed, a layer of up to 30 mm is needed;
• must be stored and transported in packaging so as not to damage the protective layer.

To combined system heating worked normally, you need to know how to properly connect radiators and a water-heated floor.

In this article, we will consider several piping schemes for a combined heating system, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of each scheme.

Connecting a warm floor to a one-pipe heating system (option 1)

In the diagram below, a one-pipe heating system, otherwise called "Leningrad":

The diagram shows a boiler (floor-standing), a safety unit, shut-off valves (valves) on the supply pipe and on the return, an expansion tank and a circulation pump in front of the boiler.

The radiator system is made in the form of two branches; on each branch - immediately after connecting to the main riser - a shut-off valve is also installed. Each radiator has two radiator valves: on the supply and on the return - in case of need to replace a failed radiator without draining the entire system.

The supply and return - the main pipeline - are made with a polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 25 mm, the radiators are connected to the main pipe with a 20 mm polypropylene pipe.

In a one-pipe system, section A should be of a smaller diameter (with a main pipe diameter of 25 mm, the pipe of this section has a diameter of 20 mm). (Why this is done is described in the next article.)

What's wrong with this system?

On the upper branch, the supply to the radiators is from the top, and the return from the radiator is from the bottom. This connection gives the greatest efficiency. On the lower branch, both the supply and return of the radiators are connected at the bottom of the radiator. With such a connection, the efficiency of radiators will be only 88%, as described in the article about efficient and ineffective radiator connections.

Another drawback: such a connection scheme is not suitable for large houses with about 30-40 radiators. That is, if a building has more than one floor, then with such a connection of radiators, you need to make its own branch separate from the others for each floor. In one-story buildings with large areas (more than 150 sq. M.), Another scheme is used, about which later, and for now, about connecting a warm floor in the scheme under consideration.

How to connect a warm floor?

A coolant with a temperature of 80 degrees comes out of the boiler. Having passed all the radiators, the coolant in the return pipe already has a temperature of 50-55 degrees, which makes it ideal to connect a warm floor to the return pipe, which can be seen in the diagram.

On the supply and return of the heated floor, shut-off valves are also installed, which make it possible to turn off the warm floor without stopping the radiator system. A bypass is made on the return line, with the help of which part of the coolant (if it is too hot in the return line for a warm floor) is sent to the boiler.

That is, if the bypass is closed, then all the coolant will go through the warm floor. With an open bypass, due to the greater resistance in the warm floor, the coolant will go directly to the boiler, and the floor will not heat up. It is understood that the bypass is not necessarily only fully open or only fully closed. It can be opened to a certain extent in order to set the desired temperature in the warm floor.

Of course, bypass adjustment is a manual adjustment, it is not very convenient, but not everyone has the opportunity to buy expensive mixing units with automatic valves. That is, bypass is a budget option, perhaps for the first time, until it becomes possible to install automation.

Connecting a warm floor to a one-pipe heating system (option 2)

The following example of a combined heating system:

Here the boiler is wall-mounted, but it doesn't matter, the boiler can be installed whatever you want.

The radiators are connected according to a one-pipe scheme: the return of the first radiator is the supply for the second, etc.

The disadvantage of such a connection is that the first radiator is the hottest, and in the latter the water temperature is the lowest, which may simply not be enough to warm up the room in which this last radiator is installed.

Consider connecting a warm floor.

Unlike the previous scheme, here the warm floor is connected to the supply, and not to the return of the radiator system. Since the heat carrier comes to the warm floor of the same temperature (80 degrees) as to the radiators, there must be a temperature control (mixing unit) in front of the collector at the supply. Without such temperature control, it is possible to overheat the warm floor, which will be uncomfortable for a person. In this case, one bypass node shown in the diagram is not enough.

Connecting underfloor heating to a two-pipe heating system

The following diagram is a two-pipe heating system, in which there is a separate supply pipe and a separate return:

The disadvantage of such a system is the same as in the previous scheme: with a large number of radiators in the last radiator, the coolant has the lowest temperature.

But the warm floor, connected to the return line in front of the boiler itself, has the most suitable temperature. A bypass is also installed here for manual control of the temperature of the warm floor, as in the first scheme.

Combined heating system in the apartment

This diagram illustrates how you can make a combined heating system - connect the warm floor - in the apartment... Of course, not in all cities it is allowed to connect underfloor heating to the apartment heating system. In any case, the permission needs to be clarified. Nevertheless, I will give a diagram.

The diagram shows the vertical supply and return pipes that pass through all floors of the house. Above shows a radiator connected to the risers. Below - instead of a radiator! - the underfloor heating system is connected: collectors, a circulation pump and a mixing unit for temperature control.

Through the supply pipe from the main riser, water with a temperature of 80 degrees enters the mixing unit (that is, it seems like it should be at this temperature, but many people living in apartments have the right to doubt, but oh well). In the mixing unit, colder water from the return line of the underfloor heating is added to the hot heat carrier, thus lowering the supply temperature to the desired value.

That, in fact, is the whole principle of underfloor heating in a city apartment. However, you must always remember about strict control over the temperature of the coolant in the warm floor and that the neighbors also have enough heat. Well, and I will repeat once again: first you need to find out in the relevant services whether it is allowed to make a warm floor in your city / house.

In general, on my website there is a detailed article on how to make a water-heated floor in an apartment without having problems with the connection diagram shown above.

All the schemes given in this article, despite the indicated shortcomings, are workable, and you can use them for heating devices in your home. However, there is one principle; if you understand it, then combined heating system of any complexity will be within your power. What is this principle? Read on in the next article.

How to connect a warm floor to heating

Installation and connection of water floor heating to the water heating system in the house is possible both at the stage of construction and planning, as well as to an existing and functioning heating circuit. Before making a warm floor from heating, it is necessary to correctly calculate its estimated performance, take into account the peculiarities of combining the radiator circuit and the additional pipeline, as well as other parameters. Installation on a wooden base must be carried out taking into account the operating conditions of the topcoat.

Fact! For the implementation of such a system, both a single-pipe line and a two-pipe line are suitable, and it can be used both in an apartment and in a private house, including a wooden one. The constant circulation of hot water will be provided by a special pump, which will significantly increase the efficiency of heating and return of the coolant through the return pipes. The contour of the underfloor heating system can be designed by yourself, taking into account the basic principles of pipe arrangement. With proper and high-quality installation, proper operation of the boiler and general thermal insulation, this heating method will become an effective replacement for batteries.

Connection and installation of a water floor in an apartment

In accordance with the regulated norms, unauthorized unauthorized connection of water floor heating in an apartment to central heating is prohibited. An unauthorized do-it-yourself insert is fraught with irreversible consequences in terms of high-quality heating of neighboring apartments from below or from above, depending on the principle of hot water supply in the hot water central heating system. Connecting an additional structure to central heating can damage the overall hydraulics of the entire multi-storey building. If there is an autonomous hot water heating in the apartment, which is connected to the boiler, the permission of the utilities is not needed. This applies to old buildings, new buildings provide for the possibility of connecting water floor heating.

Connecting underfloor heating to individual heating

The types of connection for water underfloor heating depend on the general heating scheme, there are such systems:

To connect a structure to an individual heating system in a private house or in an apartment, it is necessary to correctly design the contour of the structure, take into account the distance between the turns and the distance from the boiler, as well as the estimated location of furniture or other decorative and interior elements. It is recommended to position the contour under an open, unoccupied floor surface.

In a private house, laying of this type of heating usually occurs during a major renovation, when the floors are reinforced and grouted. On a wooden floor, laying a water heating structure is also possible if there is a frame made of additional logs and a new coating. It should be noted that installation on a wooden base provides for effective thermal insulation on the underside of the structure. Also, laying on a wooden frame should ensure an even distribution of the generated heat, for which recesses can be equipped in the logs for the location of the pipeline.

One-pipe water heating system, the so-called "Leningradka", is considered one of the simplest and less costly designs. Such a scheme and its installation provides for the presence of one line for hot water, the circuit in this case only increases its total length. The operation of the unit is ensured by a circulation pump, without which the heating efficiency is insufficient. The presence of a boiler in a private house, in which a similar pump is mounted, also does not guarantee that the circuit will be as efficient as possible. For high-quality circulation of hot water through the pipes, the pump should be installed approximately in the middle of the line. In this case, the underfloor heating circuit must have a connection after the pump, and the return flow - after it. The control is carried out using special regulators that are installed on the open part of the pipeline. The circuit connected to a one-pipe heating system should not exceed 20 - 30 m. Otherwise, the efficiency of its operation is noticeably reduced. Particular attention should be paid to the location of the underfloor heating mixer, which is also installed on the open part of the structure.

A two-pipe heating scheme is considered the most optimal for connecting and functioning underfloor heating. A two-pipe radiator heating system provides for separate pipelines for return and hot water supply, connected to the main boiler. In this case, it is possible to connect the underfloor heating system in one place on the open part using a mixer module or conventional ball valves, which will provide the necessary water flow through them.

Important! The two-pipe type of connection can ensure the normal functioning of the underfloor heating circuit, the length of which does not exceed 50 m.

The gravity circuit provides for the natural circulation of water through the pipeline. The water floor heating circuit must be connected to such a circuit, taking into account the slope of the line. You need to connect the system at one end of the room, and output the return flow at the other. Do-it-yourself installation and connection to such a system is a very time-consuming process that requires special knowledge.

You should also choose the right pipe diameter for both connecting the battery and underfloor heating. The size of the pipes of the main line connected to the boiler must be at least 32 mm.

The layout of the pipeline can be performed according to the principle:

• "Snakes";
• Spirals.

The diameter of the pipe for laying underfloor heating, when a one-pipe or two-pipe heating scheme is installed, should not exceed 18 mm.

You can connect a water-heated floor with your own hands, while observing the basic requirements for the installation of such structures. Using this heating method will allow you to abandon the open radiator heating circuit, which is also permissible in a private wooden house. In case of insufficient external insulation of the building or an uninsulated wooden base, it is recommended to use the two heating principles together, depending on the efficiency of the boiler. The installation algorithm, which determines how to make a warm floor from heating, should provide for testing the operation with an open system, not filled with a cement screed. The final formation of the floor covering in the house is possible after a certain period of time, making sure that the structure is intact and there is no leakage.

Owners country houses do not always know how to make a warm floor from heating. It is very easy to install the system yourself and connect it if you know a few nuances.

Installation of underfloor heating from an existing heating system is carried out on the basis of the following principles:

• it is necessary to connect the manifold assembly to the existing radiators;
• the structure to be installed must differ in the standard pressure, which does not exceed 8-9 atm.

Connecting a water underfloor heating to an existing autonomous water heating system

The latter type is characterized by the presence of two pipelines. One is for supplying hot liquid, and the other is for removing the cooled heat carrier back to the boiler for heating.

A single-pipe heating system is distinguished by the presence of one pipeline through which water circulates. Therefore, a warm floor is connected to it according to the principle of another radiator. It is installed after the heater, which makes it possible to reduce the temperature of the coolant without additional devices.

Materials for the installation of a warm water floor

Water underfloor heating device from heating

To ensure the efficient functioning of a water heated floor, it is recommended to use pipes with a diameter of 2 cm. The preferred material is polyethylene or metal. When using the latter option, a multilayer structure is used for pipelines, and the surface of the elements is covered with a special anti-corrosion layer.

Characteristics of Rehau pipes for underfloor heating

Polyethylene is preferred as a material. It is not subject to electrochemical corrosion, which cannot be said about metal. Also polyethylene pipes are easier to install. They are sold in coils of large volume, which allows the installation of an entire water circuit with one element. The main material for securing pipelines is plastic ties or special profiles that are installed using dowels.

SANEXT pipe structure for underfloor heating

The circuit is installed according to the selected scheme. If the pipe material is polyethylene, then the radius of the coil should not be less than five of its diameters. If the contour is bent too much, creases are formed. In this place, the material is most susceptible to destruction during long-term operation.

Installation of VALTEC water underfloor heating

Underfloor heating collector structure

The cheapest manifold is equipped with isolation valves only. In such a model, the possibility of adjusting the operating parameters is not provided, which makes the warm floor not always effective.

There are also models that are equipped with servo drives and pre-mixers. First additional element provides full automation, and the second allows you to adjust the temperature of the coolant supplied to the warm floor.

Thermal insulating underlay

The pipelines are laid on a prepared base, which is formed using special heat-insulating substrates. Use the following options:

with foil coating. Such insulating material as penofol is used. This substrate can be used when there is no need for high-quality insulation of the floor;

Laying foil underfloor heating

Varieties of mineral wool insulation for a warm floor

Connecting a warm floor to heating devices happens in several ways, depending on the configuration of the existing system:

one-pipe scheme. The connection of the supply of the circuit with the circulating heat carrier occurs after the circulation pump, and the return - after. The system is adjusted using an installed manifold or ball valve;

One-pipe hot water heating system

Connection diagram for one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems without a circulation pump

Floor heating connection diagrams depending on design features

The system of pipelines with a circulating heat carrier is connected to existing heating devices using the following schemes:

• balancing adjustment. The circuit includes a special crane. It allows you to lower the fluid flow rate to the required level. Thus, you can regulate the temperature of the warm water floor;

optimal and uniform heating of the entire floor surface, which is achieved by introducing additional adjustment devices into the design;

Scheme of connecting a water heated floor to the central system through a separate input

Connecting underfloor heating to an existing heating system

Questions often come to the site's mail about how to connect one or more underfloor heating circuits to an existing heating system.

This article will show you how to do this. The underfloor heating circuit can be connected to a system, for example, radiator heating using a local underfloor heating connection module. To do this, you need to purchase this module or make it yourself.

Consider an everyday example: You have a radiator heating system installed in your house and you have installed a floor heating circuit, for example, in an extension and want to connect it to your heating system, but at the same time you rack your brains on how to do it correctly. And on the Internet, I can tell you, there is a lot of conflicting information regarding such a connection.

First, we will consider how the heating system should be arranged, to which you can connect the underfloor heating circuit. The system must have its own circulation pump. It can be two-pipe, one-pipe (Leningradka) or gravitational.

The first and the most ideal option to connect the underfloor heating circuit, a two-pipe radiator heating system is used. At the same time, we mount the underfloor heating circuit and connect it to the supply and return pipelines of the radiator heating system. It can be done both through the underfloor heating connection module, or you can simply use two ball valves.

Connecting a warm floor to a one-pipe heating system

The second option for connecting the underfloor heating circuit to a radiator heating system, called Leningradka. Or a simple one-pipe system. In this case, you need to connect the underfloor heating circuit supply after the circulation pump, and the underfloor heating return in front of the pump. At the same time, it is possible to regulate the room temperature with the help of the underfloor heating connection module, and with the help of ball valves.

Connecting a warm floor to a gravitational heating system

The third option, for example, a purely gravity horizontal heating system without a circulation pump. Since the system in this case is on a slope and it is possible to connect the underfloor heating circuit, for example, in the same room, using the same slope system. To do this, we connect the supply of the underfloor heating circuit at the beginning of the room, and the return flow of the circuit at the other end of the room. I want to say right away that you will have to tinker a lot to connect the underfloor heating circuit to the gravitational heating system. It is easier to embed a circulation pump into such a system and make a connection according to the second option.

Connection conditions

Now let's talk about the conditions for the underfloor heating circuit connected to the radiator heating system. First you need to understand that the mounted radiator heating system is not rubber. Hence, it has some limitations. And it must be done right. I very often see people installing radiator heating systems, using, for example, PPR pipe dm 25 mm. And how, in this case, to connect underfloor heating to the system? That is why I always recommend installing pipes for a radiator heating system. from a diameter of 32 mm and above.

Now about the length of the underfloor heating contour. The length should not exceed 40-50 meters for a two-pipe system, depending on the above characteristics. It can be mounted both with a snake starting, for example, from the outer walls, and with a spiral.

The length of the underfloor heating circuit for Leningradka with forced circulation should not exceed 20-30 meters. Wherein if your contour length is longer, then you need to divide it into equal parts.

In this case, I recommend using a metal-plastic pipe dm 16-18 mm maximum. Dm 20 mm is used for gravity systems. Typically, the temperature of the coolant in radiator heating systems is at least 70 degrees. At the same time, PEX-AL-PEX pipes can withstand temperatures of 90 degrees. There are also analogues of XLPE pipes with an oxygen impermeable layer, which also withstand temperatures of 90 degrees Celsius.

Module for connecting underfloor heating to the heating system

Now let's talk about the operation and device of the underfloor heating circuit connection module. The underfloor heating control module works according to all the laws of the underfloor heating system. That is the module, due to the thermal head, turns off or turns on the supply of coolant to the underfloor heating circuit... In this case, the module is mounted on the return line. For this, an air vent machine is installed in the module. To expel air from the underfloor heating circuit.

The module is assembled to plastic box with a cover and is used for concealed installation inside the wall. The cover has a hole from which the thermostatic head protrudes to measure the room temperature. And, consequently, the resumption or termination of the circulation of the coolant in the floor heating circuit.

The thermal head is mounted on a shut-off valve under the thermal head. The valve, in turn, is connected to a tee, into which an air vent machine is screwed. All this is located inside the box.

Installation of the underfloor heating circuit begins with the installation of the underfloor heating module ... To do this, you need to choose a place inside the room near the door. It is from the side of its opening. At a height of no more than 1000 mm. Make a recess in a brick wall or a frame in a plasterboard wall. It is also necessary to make a line from the recess to the floor with a size of 50x50 mm.

Now we mount the underfloor heating control module. We mount a warm floor pie according to all the laws of the genre ( in detail here) and connect the pipes of the underfloor heating circuit to the radiator heating system, following this diagram.

But not everything is so smooth nowadays. The modules for connecting the underfloor heating circuit are expensive and they cannot always be found. In this case, the module for the circuit can be made with your own hands.

For this we take, for example, a shield for installing electricity. The shield or junction box can be plastic or metal. Junction boxes are also suitable. In this case, we choose the size 200x300 mm. 300 mm exactly in height. Now we take a straight radiator valve under the thermal head. Set direction up. We attach a fitting for connecting pipes from below. It can be a press or TM. From above we wind a ½ inch bend with an internal and external thread. We screw a ½ inch tee onto the outlet. We screw in the air vent machine from above. Below is a fitting for connecting pipes. It can be a press or TM. Now, with the help of metal clamps on a hairpin, we mount this structure into the shield.

We connect the warm circuit to the module and enjoy its work and the warm floor.

eurosantehnik.ru

How to connect a warm floor to a water heating system

Connecting a water underfloor heating to the heating system

Principles of technology for connecting a warm floor to the heating system

the coolant temperature must be reduced to at least + 55 ° С;

Also in the list preparatory work the calculation of all operating parameters of a warm water floor is included, which depend on the characteristics of the existing heating system. It can be one-pipe or two-pipe.

How to connect a warm floor to the heating system

You also need to take into account that it is impossible to achieve effective functioning of a warm floor in the presence of the gravitational principle of fluid movement. When the coolant passes from a large-diameter pipeline to a smaller one, the coolant will not be able to overcome the formed hydraulic resistance.

More expensive options are equipped with additional valves. They allow you to adjust the operation of the underfloor heating when necessary.

The collector is mounted in a special box (material - galvanized steel), which corresponds to its size. Its installation is carried out at a certain height so that it is possible to bring all the necessary pipelines to it.

DIY floor heating collector

Expanded polystyrene plates for a water-heated floor

Wiring diagram for water underfloor heating, depending on the configuration of the existing heating

Two-pipe hot water heating system

The device of the water floor heating system

unregulated. For the functioning of the structure, a low-power circulation pump is used. Given this feature, the length of the circuit should not exceed 70 m. Its diameter is 16 mm, which provides a throughput of 5-10 l / min. Such a scheme is not effective, since there is no way to control its operating parameters;

Three-way thermostatic mixing valve device

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating from existing heating

The device of a water-heated floor according to this scheme has several advantages:

Video: Installation of a one-pipe heating system with warm floors

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Heating of living quarters today is a whole set of very different options, each of which is distinguished by manufacturability, economy and efficiency. In most cases, residents of city apartments are content with centralized heating services. Only in recent years has begun the process of an individual approach to heating residential premises in apartment buildings. The main focus is on the installation of autonomous heating systems in new buildings with the subsequent connection of heating radiators. In many households today you can find combined options, underfloor heating along with radiator heating.

As an additional heating method, it is becoming fashionable to use water floors. For a private house and city apartment with autonomous heating, such a heating scheme is quite real. Central heating in old apartment buildings is another matter. In this case, equipping a warm floor in an apartment is a problematic task. However, there are ways to connect underfloor heating as an additional source of heating in a city apartment. Consider what options exist in this case, how you can make the installation of a warm floor at home.

Why warm floors are becoming so popular

To begin with, the idea to heat the floor did not appear today and not now. Thanks to physical characteristics heating air masses, underfloor heating is the most efficient space heating system. The heated floor surface transfers thermal energy to the air masses, which, in turn, rising up, fill the entire inner space. Unlike heating radiators in an apartment, which play the role of a thermal curtain, a warm floor is able to evenly warm almost all the air inside living rooms.

On a note: the efficiency of underfloor heating is 30-40% higher than the conventional, traditional option for heating residential premises using radiators. Due to the circulation of warm and cold air masses, an even temperature balance is achieved. The highest temperature is reached in the lower layers of the air. With radiator heating, the opposite is true. Warm air concentrates at the top, making the floor the coldest place in the room.

Despite the obvious advantages, such a heating scheme was rarely used until recently. As a rule, warm water floors were used as additional sources of heating in apartments and houses. Warm floors have become fashionable to install in recent years, when technological equipment and consumables have appeared in sufficient quantities. For private households, such heating has become commonplace, which cannot be said about residential premises in apartment buildings.

On a note: in some cases, attempts were made to independently install underfloor heating from central heating in the bathroom and toilets. In small spaces and in small rooms, such experiments usually ended well. The same cannot be said about attempts to carry out floor heating in all rooms by means of a centralized heat supply.

Installation restrictions

It would be appropriate to say here that according to the legislation, such re-equipment of the heating system in residential apartments is prohibited. There are not only regulatory grounds and circulars of regulatory organizations for this, but also a number of technological standards and regulations.

The reasons for the ban lie in the following aspects:

First aspect. It's not hard to imagine. Classically warm floor looks like water pipe connected to the heating system is laid on the floor. A concrete screed is made on top of the water circuit, which immediately provides reliable protection to the pipeline and plays the role of an engineering and technological element of a residential building. The heating circuit transfers heat from the heat carrier to the screed, which is an active heat transfer surface due to the good thermal conductivity of the concrete.

With all the obvious pluses, the main minus lies on the surface. Not all residential buildings are designed for reconstruction associated with the installation of underfloor heating. Here, the height of the ceilings is taken into account and, which is very important, the laying of a new screed.

Important! One square meter concrete screed weighs 200-300 kg, so imagine how much additional weight will lie on the floor panels if you decide to make a floor in a room with an area of ​​10-15 m 2.

Second aspect. Let's digress from the technical side of the matter and pay attention to the regulations. Connecting a warm floor in an apartment from a radiator means jeopardizing the operation of the entire centralized heating system. A tie-in into a riser for connecting a water circuit is fraught with a decrease in the quality of heating of residential premises, both from above and from below.

On a note: the only thing that is possible in this situation is to connect a water-heated floor to the risers of the centralized heating system in apartments located on the ground floor.

Here, the principle of hot water supply to the heating circuit must be taken into account. It is almost impossible to obtain permission to change the method of heating an apartment with centralized heating for a number of reasons.

If you have an autonomous gas boiler or you are the owner of a private house, there should not be any special problems with the installation of warm floors.

Fact! For apartments in old buildings, when laying a water floor, you will have to strictly adhere to design constraints, while in new buildings, already at the design stage, the possibility of floor heating equipment is provided.

A home heating system of the warm water floor type, in which the main source of heat is boiler water, according to experts, is not distinguished by high performance and is not durable. The main reason is the low quality of the heat carrier supplied to our houses from the heating plant. This includes the high hydraulic resistance of the water circuit laid on the floor and the low resistance of the pipeline to possible water hammer.

If you are not confused by possible difficulties, then we will figure out in detail how to make a warm floor from heating in an apartment. It is important to follow the instructions and design data on which any installation work in this case is based.

What is required to connect a warm floor to a centralized heating system

As with laying any communication line in the house, laying underfloor heating requires careful preparation... Here it will be appropriate to understand for yourself several principles that are decisive for successful subsequent work. For example:

• is there a constructive opportunity to connect to the radiators installed in the apartment not only a new water circuit, but also other important elements of the heating system (manifold, mixing unit, pump, three-way valve, mixing unit);
• is there a practical opportunity to lower the temperature of the coolant to at least 55 0 C (in the riser and in the heating batteries, the water heating temperature often reaches high values, 65-75 0 C);
• how does it feel operating pressure the coolant has a centralized riser in the apartment, does the pressure exceed the standard parameters of 8-9 atm.

The warm floor from the battery is connected according to standard schemes, each of which has its own technological differences and efficiency. The installation scheme will be optimal, in which you will be able to include the manifold, mixing unit and adjustment devices.

The main element, without which your water floor will be ineffective, is the mixing unit. it will also not be superfluous, taking on the task of ensuring safety and adjusting the heating temperature of the coolant. The circulation pump, temperature sensors and thermostat are included in the safety group. It does not matter whether you connect a water-heated floor directly to a riser or to a battery, in each case you will need special equipment.

We will not consider the principle of operation of each element of the system now, for this there are other sources of information. Now it is important to familiarize yourself with the practical installation schemes for underfloor heating, operating from a heating plant.

Various connection options

Underfloor heating does not differ from central heating in a heating option that has great technological flexibility. In practice, four, the most common connection schemes are used:

• unregulated heating system;
• regulated balanced heating system;
• working diagram with the installation of a three-way valve;
• water floor with mixing unit.

Each of the proposed schemes is distinguished by its efficiency and practicality. Let's consider each separately.

Unregulated system

There is nothing special here. A circulation pump is installed to the water circuit that will serve the floor. In this case, there are significant limitations. The pipeline should not be longer than 70 m. For the equipment of the pipeline, metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 16 mm are used, throughput up to 10 liters per minute.

On a note: underfloor heating laid according to this scheme is a completely unregulated system. The efficiency of such a system is weak, due to the high probability of heat loss arising from the rapid cooling of domestic radiators.

In this situation, it is important to remember that the pump is installed on the return pipe. If you do the opposite, the pump will drive the main flow of the hot coolant into the additional water circuit. Your neighbors' batteries and radiators will immediately react to this by staying warm.

Adjustable balanced heating system

Here we are already using a special mixing circuit equipped with a shut-off valve. Thanks to such equipment, it is possible to achieve regulation of the heating temperature of the water circuit by reducing the intensity of the coolant circulation.

The balancing valve plays the role of a temperature regulator for heating the water floor. Moving the valve to the appropriate position increases or decreases the flow of the coolant into the water circuit.

Scheme of a water floor with the installation of a three-way valve

In order for your system to be regulated, reliable and become a practical source of heating, it is enough to install a three-way valve on the system. The task of this device is to control the consumption of thermal energy of the coolant circulating along the circuits. In this case, the floor heating temperature is automatically controlled.

On a note: if the battery cools down quickly, install a two-way valve in the jumper to shut off the hot water supply to the underfloor heating piping. The circulation will be carried out in the same mode.

Water floor with mixing unit

How to connect a warm floor to a heating system if you want a controlled, practical and reliable heating system? Take advantage of the inclusion in the working diagram of the mixing unit. This option is most preferable for those regions where the climate is harsh. In such regions, usually in a centralized system, the temperature of the coolant reaches critical parameters for a warm floor (75-95 0 С). The mixing unit will solve this problem by supplying the required temperature of 35-40 ° C to the floor pipeline.

Conclusion

Summing up, I would like to note one important detail. Heating the floor covering will only be effective and effective remedy heating, if all calculations and design features of the dwelling, centralized heat source are observed during installation. On the proposed video, you can explore the options for connecting the water circuit to the centralized heating system without prejudice to yourself and your neighbors.

The floor temperature, or rather, its rise, has been and remains an urgent task both for the owners of country estates and for the owners of apartments in high-rise buildings. This problem is especially acute with regard to bathrooms and children's rooms. However, there is hardly a person who refuses to have underfloor heating in the bedroom, for example.

The very idea of ​​insulating the floor, as well as the walls, by laying pipelines with hot water inside them is by no means new. Back in Soviet times, experimental projects of panel houses were created and implemented, with hot water circulating inside the floor slabs and walls, thereby providing heating of the apartment without radiators. The lack of batteries was believed to save usable space rooms and does not spoil their aesthetic appeal.

Connecting underfloor heating to the heating system

It is quite natural that such buildings have not passed the test of time, due to the practically zero maintainability of heating systems and extremely low economic feasibility. Indeed, most of the heat was spent not on heating the interior, but on heating the structural elements of buildings and the surrounding atmosphere.

The channels, made of iron, corroded very quickly, due to constant contact with water under pressure and having a high temperature.

This publication is devoted to a description of underfloor heating systems combined with heating communications, as well as an examination of the nuances of underfloor heating.

Why floor heating?

They returned to the installation of underfloor heating, combined with a heating system, due to the appearance of new materials, for example. The low maintainability of such floors does not play a decisive role due to the lack of the need for repairs (frequent, in any case).

They are practically non-corrosive and last for long periods of time. Therefore, water heated floors are now very relevant and popular.

As noted earlier, underfloor heating is essential in children's rooms and bathrooms where people walk on them with bare feet. Indeed, an unreasonable child, poorly aware of the effect of temperature on his health, can crawl, lie and play on a cold surface.

An adult who is hot in the bathroom also does not notice the cold coming from the floor and can get sick. Some, on the contrary, have very sensitive feet and for them the usual discomfort turns into a test of will.

In fact, underfloor heating with its natural convection, when heated air circulates throughout the entire area of ​​the room, according to doctors, is the best option for heating any room.

In addition, such a healthy microclimate is easier and more economically feasible to create and maintain with the help of warm floors. The uniform movement of heat flows over the entire area contributes to this. Due to these reasons, the question of how to connect a water heat-insulated floor is very relevant.

Diagram of different heating systems

Some experts argue that the underfloor heating structure can be successfully used as a self-sufficient and only heating system. Here, probably, given the Russian climate and heating costs, one can argue. It is recommended to combine both types of heating.

General problem statement

When considering the problem of how to connect a warm floor to the heating system, it is immediately worthwhile to clearly understand the difference between the device for heating it in a private and an apartment building. In the first case, the owner is free to carry out the improvement without any restrictions, based only on the characteristics of the boiler and the layout of the premises. In high-rise buildings, connecting a water-heated floor to the heating system causes much more problems.

The main ones are the following:

• difference in hydraulic resistance in heating radiators and floor heating pipes;
• the quality of water in the central heating system is poor and can have a tangible effect on the operation of underfloor heating;
• water hammer and pressure drops can lead to premature destruction of the underfloor heating system.

These are just the main issues that can be solved through the use of various tricks so that the warm floor and radiators can function at the same time. But simply bypassing administrative barriers will not work. It is extremely difficult to obtain permission to install additional circuits connected to the building heating system.

Usually, only apartment owners who have the very end of the heating circuit manage to agree on this issue. In addition, do not forget that when connecting underfloor heating, the heating circuit will have to be opened, and thereby the pressure and temperature of the water in other apartments will change.

The way out of this situation is to connect a warm water floor to a self-installed boiler, which does not at all cancel the requirements of housing and communal services for the installation of water flow meters. This event is undoubtedly very expensive, but for people who want to feel comfortable - this is the only possible variant... A gas boiler is much more economical, but there are frequent cases of using electrical installations.

In addition, regardless of the type of heating system, the underfloor heating device must solve the main problem, which is to interface the high and low temperature heating circuit. A hot floor connected directly to the heating system will burn your feet. Indeed, whether it is a supply from a boiler in a private apartment or a riser in a high-rise building, the temperature in the pipes reaches 85 ° C.

In the pipes of the underfloor heating, water should not be heated above 35 ° C and at the same time taken from the heating system. In this case, the heating circuit with underfloor heating, of course, is somewhat complicated and cannot be connected directly. There are several options for its execution, using a heating boiler or connection to a one-pipe heating system, which will be discussed in detail below.

Underfloor heating design

First of all, you need to decide on a floor insulation project and transfer it to paper. At this stage, you need to take into account the layout of the premises, their location (possibly on different floors) and even the arrangement of furniture and structures that form the interior.

There is no need for a bathroom, for example, laying pipes under the container itself, which can take up a significant area. The same applies to mezzanines and other stationary objects.

Here, you need to choose a pipe laying scheme. Usually they use the "snail" scheme or various derivatives of the "snake".

Various installation scheme for warm floors

Double snake and snail patterns provide good uniformity of surface heating, and therefore are popular, despite the more complex installation process.

It must be remembered that the length of one circuit should not exceed 30 m. This means that more than one snail or snake may be needed to heat the floors in a large room. Moreover, each of them must enter and exit the underfloor heating collector. The two-circuit version is usually sufficient for most rooms.

Materials required for underfloor heating

The pipe material should also be decided during the design process. The quality, durability and cost of comfortable living largely depend on this. The most common options are:

• pipes made of polypropylene or steel, although they are suitable for a floor heating device, are not considered further due to obvious shortcomings;
• copper pipes;
• metal-plastic pipes;
• XLPE pipes;
• corrugated stainless steel pipes.

Copper, which has excellent performance in terms of both thermal conductivity and durability, has long been abandoned due to its high cost (although there are well-to-do individuals).

Warm floor from copper pipes

Metal-reinforced plastic gives excellent results, however, over time, the aluminum layer becomes brittle due to the pressure and oxygen of the water. This, in turn, can significantly reduce the durability of the warm floor, the repair of which is very laborious and expensive.

Pipes for underfloor heating made of metal-plastic

The use of cross-linked polyethylene pipes is considered optimal today. Their manufacturing technology allows, along with flexibility, to achieve excellent strength and durability of the pipe. If an additional layer of "EVON" is included in the structure of the pipe, reducing oxygen diffusion to the limit, then it becomes practically eternal.

Polyethylene pipes for underfloor heating

Stainless steel is a worthy competitor to XLPE. Corrugated pipes made of it are flexible, durable and inexpensive. Their distinctive feature is such a reliable fitting system that they can be connected (built up) inside a concrete screed.

Stainless steel pipe

Under no circumstances should seam pipes be used. This is especially important when it comes to a central heating system. A water hammer, even if not very strong, will destroy the pipe and lead to serious trouble.

The term "insulation" in relation to warm floors will not be entirely correct. It is more fair to talk about shielding heat, which should warm the upper surface, and not be spent on heating the ceiling of a neighbor or basement.

Insulation materials are selected taking into account the possibility of raising the floor. In standard high-rise buildings, this circumstance is especially critical. The total thickness of the floor consists of, in fact, the thickness of the insulation and the thickness of the screed.

If a heated room is located under the apartment, then a 30 mm layer of insulation will be sufficient. In the case of a basement, basement and even more ground under the floor, this value can reach 50-100 mm. The thickness of the screed, based on the requirements for its strength, cannot be less than 50 mm. These simple calculations-estimates must be taken into account when starting the installation of a warm floor.

The thickness of the floor must be calculated already at the stage of its hydro- and sound insulation, creating a margin for the heating layer.

Usually, when laying it, they use specially designed for this. The bosses located on them allow simple, fast and reliable pipe laying through them. The latter can also be attached to the reinforcing mesh during the casting of the screed.

Thermal insulation mats

To reduce the overall thickness of the floor, the screed is sometimes abandoned, laying the pipe in metal heat exchange plates, which, in turn, are mounted in lath or finished wooden structures, as well as in thermal insulation mats.

Heat exchange plate

Types of connecting a warm floor to the heating system

Combined heating radiators plus underfloor heating may be the only one possible way achieving comfortable indoor conditions. But for a number of reasons, it is impossible to connect a warm water floor with a simple "tie-in" into the riser or heating pipes, thus ensuring the supply of hot water and its return to the system (return).

The main ones are:

• independent circulation of water in thin and long pipes is impossible, which means that a pump is needed to connect to heating;
• to harmonize the pressure in the system, it is necessary to have a smoothing device to prevent the effect of water hammer;
• it is necessary to remove air from the system;
• water filtration, especially relevant in central heating systems, implies the presence of dirt traps;
• the presence of a mixer, due to the need to mix water from the supply and return in certain proportions to achieve the required temperature in the underfloor heating circuit (lowering the water temperature relative to the heating system);
• devices for regulation and accounting (for housing and communal services) are objectively necessary.

Due to these factors, the connection diagram of the warm floor to the heating system becomes much more complicated.

Sometimes the simple cut-in method is still used, but this applies exclusively to rooms of a small area, less than 10 square meters, a bathroom, for example. This in no way cancels the agreement with the housing and communal services and the installation of related meters.

Types (diagrams) of connecting water underfloor heating in the case of autonomous home heating or when obtaining permission from housing and communal services, involving a tie-in directly into the pipes of the system, are shown in the figure.

Wiring diagram for connecting a water-heated floor to the heating system

The most simple, and, accordingly, inexpensive circuit connecting the warm floor to the boiler "a" works using a two-way tap connected to the thermostat. The heat is regulated by decreasing or increasing the flow with regulating valves (3 and 4). The bypass valve 8 serves to equalize the pressure.

Scheme "b" is, in principle, similar to the first, with the only exception that the collectors are directly connected by a jumper 8 together with a valve that cuts off the flow when the pressure exceeds the permissible value.

The "b" scheme combines high reliability and simplicity. Here, a three-way valve (11) is installed on the return line, which redirects the chilled water to the supply section.

More perfect than the previous one, the "d" scheme is distinguished by more sensitive temperature control. This is due to the presence of a three-way mixer (9) on the supply pipe, which mixes the water before it enters the circulation pump (1).

There is no limit to perfection. The validity of the statement is confirmed by the scheme "d". It uses a four-way valve mixer, which can be manually controlled and by means of a servo-actuator that responds to signals from the thermostat unit.

Diagram "e" describes the optimal connection of the warm floor in the apartment to the central heating system through the heat exchanger (14). This implies that you have the appropriate approval to carry out this procedure, as well as the air vent, pressure gauge, overpressure valve and expansion vessel (13). These elements make up a safety group (12) when connecting a warm floor from a battery.

Trying to improve the aesthetics of the interior, the pump and mixing unit can be "hidden" as far as you like. However, access to shut-off and control valves, as well as to meters, pressure gauges and other monitoring and control elements must be quick and easy.

Assembled, providing the inclusion and control of a warm water floor, should look something like the one shown in the figure:

Pump-mixing unit

Instead of a conclusion

From what has been said, we can confidently conclude that not everyone can take on such a complex occupation requiring knowledge and experience. At the very least, trying to save money, you should carry out the installation of underfloor heating with unlimited access to specialist advice.

Connecting a warm floor to a boiler is a very difficult task, not everyone will be able to complete it. Fortunately, almost everyone has a brother, matchmaker, neighbor, or just an acquaintance who will help with advice free of charge. We stand on that.