We make a carpentry workbench with our own hands. Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands How to make a wooden workbench

A metalworking workbench is a workbench with a wide range of purposes. It allows you to carry out plumbing, repair, electric installation work, processing various materials. A workbench is a must have in any home workshop. Craftsmen prefer to design it with their own hands in order to make it as convenient as possible for themselves.

nuts and screws;
file and hammer;
paints with a brush.

Device mechanic's workbench- this is a rigid metal base (made from corners or square pipe). To decorate the tabletop, it is better to use a 50 mm timber. A steel plate up to 6 mm thick is placed on top of it. To fasten all metal parts together, use welding, but you can also screw in bolts.

Installation of the workbench frame and tabletop base

Before proceeding directly to assembly, carefully look at the prepared drawing. Once again, make sure that the dimensions of the future workbench fit into the dimensions of the room where your plumbing tools will be stored (garage, shed or workshop). Installation of the table begins with creating a frame:

From the corner, cut 4 legs of the same size.
Connect them at the top with horizontal bars made of the same material. Use welding. The result should be a rectangle (top view) of the given size.
Additionally, make a line of rigidity by once again fastening the legs in the same way with horizontal jumpers at approximately a height of 15 cm from the floor.
If you have a cabinet with drawers on the side under the workbench lid, then weld a couple of additional supports for it.

After this, you can begin assembling the tabletop:

make holes around the perimeter of the horizontal metal crossbars for bolted connections;
cut the boards to the length of the table;
lay them next to each other without cracks or gaps, secure them in this position;
make holes in the wood that match the holes in the corner.

Advice. The holes on the top side of the boards should have expansions. The bolt heads will go deeper into them so that wooden surface The countertops remained level.

The final stage of assembling the workbench

The tabletop will be ready after covering with metal. To do this, simply cut off a fragment required size from the prepared sheet and fix it to the wood base using self-tapping screws. Please note that after screwing them in, burrs may remain on the metal. They should simply be filed with a file.

If you have included drawers or shelves in the design of your workbench, use a simple technology for their manufacture. The material used is regular 15mm plywood. The boxes are assembled with screws. There are approximately 15-20 pieces per one. It’s easier to attach shelves to a corner, but for drawers you’ll have to additionally buy guide strips—sleds. They are welded to the frame.

The same plywood can be used to cover the sides of the table and make a screen on its back side. For greater stability, craftsmen recommend attaching rectangles or pieces of corner to the supports from below. It will help in this matter welding machine. If necessary, screw a vice to the workbench. Finally, treat all steel structural elements with metal paint to avoid rust.

Making a workbench for metal work is not very easy, but it is quite possible if you approach the matter responsibly. But you will be convinced that not one purchased table The quality cannot be compared with a product assembled by yourself.

How to make a workbench: video

A home handyman must have comfortable spot, this is a guarantee not only of convenience and speed of work, but also of safety. High-quality European-made workbenches cost as much as industrial equipment, while Chinese and home-made ones are not reliable. However, you can make a good workbench with your own hands, because, in essence, it is a table equipped with various fastenings, stops and tool storage.

Workbench project

The height of the workbench depends on the height of its owner; it should be comfortable to stand, without slouching, to perform basic operations. For average height this is usually 70-90 cm. Workbench configuration and necessary fastenings and the devices depend on what operations are most often performed on it, but it is worth providing several stops and a pair of screw vices or clamps (). You also need to take into account which hand the owner of the workbench uses.

Workbench diagram - first option

The width and length of the workbench depend on the area of the workshop; it is convenient if the length of the workbench is at least 2 meters and the width is 80-100 cm. It is convenient if drawers or cabinets are mounted under the workbench for storing tools and consumables.

When designing a workbench, you need to consider whether it will be permanently installed in the workshop or constantly assembled and disassembled. In the second case, it would be reasonable to lighten the structure due to a material of less thickness. In a collapsible workbench, you can make a tabletop that can be unscrewed, or you can also provide folding legs.

It is better to place the workbench near the window; additional local lighting is also required. Directly next to the workbench you need to provide several electrical outlets for the equipment. All wires near the work area must be enclosed in a box or corrugated pipe.

Selection of materials

The optimal material for a workbench is planed timber, from which the frame frame and legs will be made. For legs, you can take it with a size of 100 * 70 mm, and for jumpers - 100 * 50 mm. The table top can be made from flat boards 5 cm thick. It can also be made from a solid piece, for example, an old blank door or laminated chipboard with enough durable coating. For a workbench, it is better to choose hard wood, preferably beech, oak or maple. Thicker bars and boards will make the workbench heavier and more stable, and will be more comfortable to work on.

Fasteners for making a workbench are selected taking into account whether it will be prefabricated or dismountable. Self-tapping screws, nails and nuts with bolts will come in handy.

Before building a workbench, you need to select a vice. It is convenient if there are 2 of them - on the right side and on the left in front. In the first, you can fix long boards, and in the second, you can clamp short parts. The most universal jaw width is 175 mm.

Scheme of the second version of the workbench

We are building a workbench. Base

The production of a workbench takes place in 2 stages: assembly of the base and installation. At each stage and during each operation, you need to control the size of the parts and the evenness of their installation using a level.

The base is a frame of beams fastened in such a way that the structure is as rigid as possible. To do this, a horizontal jumper is placed between the legs of the workbench, and a drawer is provided in the middle, along the length. The lintels and drawer are placed 40-50 cm from the floor, then shelves for storing tools can be installed on them. The beams for the base are combined using a tongue-and-groove connection, gluing it. In places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. If the workbench is expected to be disassembled, then the parts of the support frame can be connected using metal corners. Usually, the grooves and tenons are first prepared according to the drawing, and then the entire structure is assembled at once, gluing the joints with wood glue and fixing them with clamps.

A good option for a stationary workbench is if one or more parts of the support frame can be screwed to the wall, so the structure will be even more reliable. Strength can be increased using diagonal jumpers or wedge-shaped inserts between the legs and the upper part of the frame from the same timber, which are fastened with self-tapping screws. The narrow ends of the upper part of the frame also need to be connected with a jumper.

Tabletop and useful accessories

If the tabletop is constructed from separate boards, then they need to be properly fitted to each other so that debris does not get into the cracks. The size of the tabletop should be a few centimeters larger than the base to make it convenient to work and clean. The boards are nailed or screwed to 3 bars located across the boards with reverse side countertops. In the base you need to provide grooves for these bars.

The board table top is carefully sanded several times and coated with a protective solution, preferably oil or drying oil, to avoid injury from chips during further work. The tabletop is screwed to the base using metal corners.

A vice is attached to the finished tabletop; a recess must be provided for it at the end of the tabletop so that the vertical plate forms one plane with it. You will also need a plywood pad on the underside of the workbench. The jaws of the vice should be flush with the surface of the countertop. Applying a vice, mark the location for the holes and secure them with bolts and nuts (M12 is suitable). The holes for the bolt heads must be pre-milled so that they sink completely into them. The vice should not be located in the very corner, so as not to tear it off under heavy load.

In addition to the vice, it is necessary to provide stops on the workbench. You can secure ready-made ones by drilling a hole of the required diameter in the tabletop, or make them yourself. You should not use bolts or round dowels instead of stops, since the bolts can damage the workpieces with their heads, and the dowels do not fix the parts well enough.

It’s easier to make rectangular stops, or pegs, which can be adjusted in height to fit different parts and securely fix them. Under them you need to make holes in the tabletop or build it up using blocks of suitable thickness, screwed to its edge, and covered with a strip on the other side. The nests should be located from each other at a distance of half the travel of the vice so that any workpiece can be fixed.

The pegs themselves are cut out of hard wood; you can make them with a “spring” that is screwed to the base, or you can simply make them rectangular. The rectangular stops can be slightly expanded at the top, then they will be fixed in the sockets more reliably.

Construction carpentry workbench with your own hands is not an easy task, but then it workplace will be able to serve the owner for a long time, acquire useful parts and devices and adapt to the specific needs of each master.

A carpentry workbench is usually called a table of a special design with a hard and durable surface that allows various devices and mechanisms to be mounted on it. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted to rigidly attach additional stationary equipment to it ( circular saw, for example, or a milling cutter small size), used to process common materials such as wood or metal.

Before making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as some of the design options that are especially popular.

Design requirements

The operating characteristics of the workbench table are:

Its height, adjusted to the height of the user, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without slouching, maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
The dimensions of the tabletop are selected based on the possibility of placing all the necessary tools on it, as well as taking into account the size of the workpieces being processed.
A set of devices mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and a clamp (screw vice).
Adaptation “to the hand” of its owner, who may also be left-handed.

Most suitable for self-made is a variant of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a tabletop installed on it. The length of such a structure usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80–100 cm).

Before starting work, you should decide whether your workbench will be a stationary device, or whether it should be folding (collapsible).

Material selection

The most suitable material for constructing a stationary workbench is considered to be wood, from which the load-bearing base with support frames, as well as the tabletop itself, are made. For the manufacture of frames, standard planed timber with a cross section of 100×70 mm is best suited. The same timber, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (100×50 mm, for example), can be used as auxiliary jumpers that increase the rigidity of the frame base.

The workbench tabletop can be made from well-planed and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick. In addition, a ready-made solid sheet (an old solid door, for example) or a piece of laminated chipboard cut to the size of the table with a reliable and durable material can be used for its manufacture. coating.

When choosing a material, preference should be given to hard wood, such as beech, oak or maple.

Assembly of the structure

Making a workbench begins with assembling a frame base, onto which a tabletop of the type you have chosen is subsequently installed. The order of operations performed is as follows:

First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, arranged in the form of two frame structures made of timber with a section of 100×70 mm.
Then these frames are connected at the top by two longitudinal beams, which, together with the upper lintels of the frames, serve as supports for the tabletop. (Please note that for reliable fastening individual elements In the design we are describing, it is best to use the classic “tenon-to-groove” connection with mandatory gluing of the joining areas).
Lower parts support frames are fastened with longitudinal jumpers made of 100×50 mm timber, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (To fasten them, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the beam).
In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and tenons are first prepared in the workpieces, after which the entire structure is assembled in one step (after applying glue to the joint areas).

During assembly Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the next working point, which determines the quality of all subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench, at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of individual elements correspond to the design data, and also to control the horizontalness of their installation using a building level.

If the tabletop is made from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that there are no cracks in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions of the supporting base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees ease of placement on the table auxiliary equipment.

When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws to transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very base, special grooves must be prepared for these bars. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully sanded and then treated with a protective solution (drying oil is usually used for these purposes). To secure it to the base, special metal corners can be additionally used.

Regarding the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vises, stops, etc.) on the workbench, the following can be said:

It is most convenient to place the working vice at the end of the tabletop, having previously prepared a small recess for fasteners at the installation site. On the back side of the table in the fastening area, it is necessary to provide a plywood pad to protect the surface from damage.
In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop to fix the workpiece in work area and making it easier to work with. On wooden tabletop It is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), which are adjusted in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fix it.
Sometimes stops are made by simply extending the tabletop using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and covered on the reverse side with a limiting strip.

In the event that there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench, consisting of a tabletop that folds against the wall and a special folding frame.

This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width of the support posts of the folding workbench does not exceed half the length of the tabletop (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).

It is also necessary to ensure that the upper cross member on the supports is located below the board with the hinge of the folding tabletop. The material for making a folding workbench table can be any monolithic piece of chipboard.

The supporting frames of the structure are made of 100x40 millimeter bars, the articulation of which is made using pre-prepared metal plates, secured to the posts and lintels using bolts of the appropriate size.

Video

This video shows the process of building a carpentry workbench:

Photo

If the main tools of a blacksmith are a hammer and an anvil, then for a carpenter there is nothing “more familiar” than his workbench. For people who work with wood, it can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, a stop and stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you want, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells you how to make woodworking tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawings presented in it will help even a beginner to install this structure.

Osya member of FORUMHOUSE

First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make yourself a table. A table like a workbench, essentially. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.). I'll call it an assembly table.

In fact, the second name for a workbench is “assembly”. But, as you already understand, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be spent as much time as it takes to design the carpentry workshop itself.

General description of the carpentry workbench

At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with its help, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will do carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex design and surprise others with your skills.

A good solid table is the basis. And everything else - vices, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are constant attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.

Workbench project

To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters that are optimal for you.

The first and most important thing you should pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, you will have to work for him for a long time. And you can get tired standing at a workbench that is too high or too low in no time.

The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that you can work while standing in full height and don't slouch. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70...90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered arms. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will understand that working while standing at such a table is a pleasure.

The optimal height of a carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.

The workbench cover, as well as work surface, it is better to make it from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use particle board materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you follow their example. This is a bad design - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and particle board under such conditions it will quickly fail.

Osya member of FORUMHOUSE

5 years ago I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.

Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood pieces involved in the work, as well as special holes (sockets) for wedges and combs. Using wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be secured to the table surface. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.

The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the size of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the lid are 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.

The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from wooden beam 120*120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not become loose under the influence of brute physical force.

Workbench installation

As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Installing a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary one wooden table. The vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The working surface should also be secured to the supports using self-tapping screws.

When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. After all, this can subsequently lead to rapid loosening of the workbench and even distortion of its supporting frame.

In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is mounted on the wall. This type of installation means that carpentry work will only be carried out when necessary.

CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member

In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench board - laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening hand router and circulars, a flush metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers and mustache nuts at the bottom, located in the places where the hand plane is attached and drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it was raised vertically and fixed to the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, are two triangles from the same board. She laid herself on them while working.

This design is an excellent way out of a situation in which the interior space of the workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads well, and it can only be made independently in exceptional cases.

After you have mounted the frame and working surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and begin carpentry work, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by adding specialized equipment to the design.

Taking into account the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter’s workbench must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if necessary tools always at hand, this is an excellent indicator. And the structural elements of the workbench itself will help you correctly arrange devices, fastening materials and power tools.

Rear and front clamps

Rear and side (front) screw clamps are those elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.

The rear clamp is designed to hold lumber while planing. As shown in the diagram, its vice blocks move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing the workpiece to be securely secured using lead screws.

The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of a carpentry table for making it yourself. FORUMHOUSE member

The fact of the matter is that in the design of a workbench, a lower shelf is absolutely necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). We use a lot of tools and have nowhere to put them outside while working. And it’s also inconvenient in the workshop - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...

The underbench can be adapted for storing power tools. For greater convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves here for small parts, fixtures and hand tools.

Having made a workbench that has all the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In progress further work you may need additional equipment. But each master will be able to guess for himself what options to use and what elements to add.

You can learn about the material from which you can subsequently make various products on your carpentry workbench from our previous article. Acquainted with practical ideas concerning, you can in the appropriate section of our forum. Any FORUMHOUSE visitor can become familiar with it by visiting a special topic created for discussion.

For a long time skilled craftsmen strived to arrange the workplace as comfortably as possible and, to put it bluntly, modern language, ergonomic, which was considered the key to not only fast and efficient work, but also safety. In this regard, the rooms intended for repair and manual production were filled with all kinds of tables, shelves and boxes, the original material for which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not correspond to the specified characteristics, and sometimes cost on par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and tell you how to make a wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of its design features, a workbench is a work table, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and intended for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, and it is practiced to process products as manually, and with the use of power tools - drills and electric planes. A typical layout of a standard woodworking bench consists of the following elements:

The working surface for which it is used solid board, the thickness of which is at least 60 mm. To make the lid, experts advise giving preference to hard wood, such as oak or beech, using which you will not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, which is due to the high wear resistance of the material.
A vice designed for securing workpieces. They are installed on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
Bench supports are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. To make them, it is advisable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers intended for tools and any other work accessories.

Carpentry workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to take it into account design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be presented as a mobile structure. If you prefer a mobile design, optimal solution will make it easier due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified by collapsible table top, as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, three types of workbenches are distinguished:

Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
A stationary workbench used for processing massive wood pieces and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but is “tied” to one place;
A collapsible or “transformable workbench” is convenient due to its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can find out how to make a retractable workbench in specialized guides.

Carpentry or metal workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Since creating a carpentry workbench involves a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. It is preferable to enclose all wires located in the work area in corrugated pipe or box

Before starting to build a workbench, experts recommend deciding on its final height. To do this, you need to lower your arms down, after which your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and your palms is the very height of the desktop that is most convenient for you. Since homemade workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m and the width is 0.8 m.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the entire work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, to build a workbench optimal material there will be planed timber, which is suitable for making a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

for legs - 100x70 mm;
for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For the tabletop, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or solid canvas, such as old wooden door or chipboard characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

Making a workbench includes several stages, the most fundamental of which are:

Base assembly;
Installation of countertops;
Installing equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

Foundation like structural element workbench, represents wooden frame, fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a frame. Both the lintels and the drawer are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the beams are secured using a tongue-and-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and tenons, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a permanent workbench, one or more pieces of the frame can be attached to the wall, adding even more strength to the final structure.

Making a countertop and installing it

When thinking through the stages of making a tabletop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for fastening which long nails are used, driven in from inside boards The boards used are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from getting into the existing cracks. For the installation of the countertop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. Horizontally oriented slats, which are needed for sliding the drawers, are attached to these jumpers using self-tapping screws.

The tabletop is attached to the base with bolts. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed into the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injury from falling wood chips during subsequent work, the tabletop is sanded several times and coated with drying oil.

Equipment installation

TO installed countertop attach a vice, for installation of which recesses should be provided in the end of the tabletop. In the place where the vice is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the tabletop. When installing a vice, first lay it down, mark where it will be attached, and then secure it with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be positioned on the edge, which will cause gravity to shift as you work.

In addition to vices, classic equipment for a workbench are wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In a dacha setting, it will also be useful to install an angle grinder and a circular saw. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to think through all the details of convenience and safety, and also check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment operates from electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly carry out the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not discuss in detail the process of making a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to its complexity this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.

To do this, make the same workbench as given in the instructions, but slightly increase the working surface area. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the tabletop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is secured with self-tapping screws. IN ideal cover not only the upper part of the tabletop, but also its end elements.