It is not difficult to make a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. DIY drilling machine: creating a desktop model from A to Z
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A drilling machine from a drill is a special device that simplifies the process of creating holes in metal, wood, plastic, which have various configurations.
To save money without losing the quality of the result, you can make a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands using simple and basic tools.
What is a drilling machine?
A homemade drilling machine from a drill is required for those people who often drill.
Unlike conventional, manual drilling, in which the drill is not fixed, drilling with an advanced device allows you to get a better result.
A hand drill drilling machine can have both compact dimensions suitable for a desktop installation, and more solid parameters that turn it into a floor machine.
Professional drilling machines, which are sold in specialized hardware stores, are very expensive.
As a rule, device models of this plan are equipped with several work areas and often software control, which increases the productivity of the equipment.
For "home" use, the use of advanced machines is often impractical.
Therefore, many people who are faced with the need to purchase a drilling machine to perform simple operations prefer to make it with their own hands.
How to make your own high-quality drilling machine from improvised materials, easily coping with the duties assigned to it and designed to work with various materials?
Before proceeding with the manufacture of the machine, you should study the drawings and accompanying information, which will allow you to more deeply understand the structure of the device.
Advantages of a do-it-yourself drill machine:
- minimum cash costs for the purchase of parts;
- compact dimensions that allow you to transport the device from place to place;
- high accuracy of the work carried out;
- the possibility of using drills of various diameters, etc.
In order for the drilling carried out using the assembled device to be of high quality, care should be taken to create a really well-thought-out model.
A properly assembled drilling machine should consist of the following parts:
- stands, which will serve as a support for the installation of objects;
- a rotating mechanism that starts the drill;
- a device that provides electricity;
- vertical rack holding the weight of the working device.
In domestic conditions, the role of a rotating mechanism is often played by a conventional drill with a suitable configuration.
It can be securely attached to the machine, making the design of the device "monolithic", or can be used as a removable element that is installed immediately before work.
Making a drilling machine from a household drill
A horizontal support, called a bed, can be made from an ordinary wooden plate, the thickness of which varies between twenty and fifty millimeters.
As an alternative material, you can use a dense sheet of fiberboard or chipboard, a base from an unused photographic enlarger, etc.
Some craftsmen make the beds of drilling machines using parts from old Soviet microscopes.
It is worth noting that the drilling machine installed on the basis of this device will only be suitable for working with small parts.
The material for the rack, which holds the weight of the structure, can be a chipboard sheet or a wooden beam (it is better to choose a bar that has parameters of five by five centimeters).
The larger the area and thickness of the bed, the less vibration the machine will produce during operation. The lower the vibration, the higher the drilling accuracy.
Vibration can be minimized by securely fastening the rack and bed.
Drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. Part 2 | Homemade Drill Press
It is possible to increase the bonding strength of the structure by additionally treating the joints of all static machine components with an adhesive suitable for these materials.
To expand the possibilities of operating a homemade drilling machine, you should install a pair of wooden (or metal) rails on the rack, along which you can move the drill holder.
As a holder for a drill (or, in other words, pads), you can use a steel clamp equipped with a locking mechanism.
Thanks to him, it will be convenient to fasten the drill to the machine before work and take it out as needed.
You can further reduce the level of vibration that occurs during the operation of the machine by protecting the junction of the drill body and the steel clamp with a special insulating gasket made of rubber.
The mechanism that will ensure the vertical movement of the drill body must be equipped with a lever and a spring fastened to the stand and to the block.
To form this mechanism, it is better to use high-quality springs with a large diameter and high rigidity.
If you own several drills, then use one of them as a permanent working device for a drilling machine.
In the manufacture of a capital device that will be equipped with a fixed drill, it makes sense to transfer the drill power button to the machine body by disassembling the device on/off switch and lengthening the necessary wires.
It will be easier to work with the “improved” mechanism, the inclusion and deactivation of which is easier to control.
Creation of an asynchronous drilling machine
How to make an asynchronous drilling type filler machine using improvised materials?
This question is asked by many people who want to expand the working functionality of the devices they use.
To make an asynchronous type drilling machine, it is not necessary to use an electric drill.
A mechanism that will create holes of the desired diameter in selected materials can be created by including any electric motor with suitable power in the chain of working elements.
You can find electric motors in specialized stores, or you can disassemble old household appliances that have fairly large parameters.
Ideally, when an asynchronous drilling machine will be made on the basis of an engine that previously started a household washing machine.
It is worth paying attention to the fact that for this part, you should choose a rack and bed of the required density and the correct dimensions in order to reasonably distribute the weight of their overall structure.
The engine will act as an asynchronous machine, powered by electric alternating current and having an unequal rotor speed.
To reduce the level of vibration that occurs during the operation of an asynchronous machine, you can install the engine on a thick base, placing it at a minimum distance from the rack.
The space between the base and the stand must be suitable for the free movement of the belt responsible for starting the drill head (when the motor is rotating).
Materials and mechanisms that should be used when creating an asynchronous drilling machine:
- reliable frame and stand made of wood;
- metal guides;
- gears and hexagons designed to fix the pulley;
- bearings of the required diameter;
- two metal pipes (hollow and equipped with an external thread);
- steel clamp.
The assembly of the apparatus should begin with the connection of a hollow metal pipe, a hexagon and a clamping ring.
It is important to ensure that there are no gaps at the junctions of these devices.
After that, a second metal pipe should be filed, forming a home-made thread on its body. The height of the pipe used must be suitable for the subsequent pressing of the hexagon shaft.
After all the preparatory work is completed, the device should be assembled and tested on "draft" materials.
If a device equipped with an asynchronous motor does not work correctly, then it should be sorted out and the problems sorted out before being put into serious operation.
At home, to create holes in metal, wood or plastic, it is better to use the simplest drilling machine, made on the basis of a conventional electric drill.
Any beginner who is familiar only with basic knowledge in the construction business can make this device.
Today we will tell you why you need an impact drill and how it works.
A conventional drill produces only rotational movements, due to which it is able to drill wood, plastic or even metal. But what if you need to drill through concrete or brick?
Create a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, drawings to help!
Concrete and brick are durable materials and an ordinary drill simply does not go deep into them when rotated, but at the same time, concrete and brick crumble upon impact.
An impact drill uses this feature, it is able not only to perform rotational movements, but also at the same time translational (shocking movements). Let us consider in more detail the principle of operation of an impact drill.
The impact drill can work in the mode of a conventional drill, i.e. only in drilling mode. In this case, the motor spindle simply transmits rotational movements to the main gear of the gearbox, which is connected to the chuck. The drill usually rotates.
If you turn on the shock mode, then the second ratchet will move to the ratchet (a flat gear with oblique teeth) on the main gear, which is rigidly fixed to the drill body. When the motor spindle rotates, the helical teeth of the ratchet repel each other. The main gear together with the shaft (as well as the chuck m with fixed equipment) performs translational movements along the axis. This is how shock mode works.
In shock mode, you need to use Pobedite drills.
Impact Drill Disadvantages
This principle of operation is fraught with several disadvantages. Firstly, the amplitude of movement of the drill along the axis is rather small, which reduces the effectiveness of the impact mode. Secondly, the impact force directly depends on the pressure force on the drill itself, i.e. the harder you push on the drill, the harder the drill crushes the concrete. When working with an impact drill, your hands get tired pretty quickly. Thirdly, the impact drill mechanism is rather short-lived. Ratchet parts wear out over time and the drill turns from an impact drill into a regular one. Therefore, shock mode is recommended to be used occasionally. If you are constantly working with concrete, then it is better to buy a hammer drill.
Do not work with an impact drill with concrete, the grade of which is higher than 300.
How an impact drill works video
For a skilled person, nothing is impossible.
Name of the site!
And if desired, a talented enthusiast is able to make anything. Today we will talk about how to assemble a drilling machine with our own hands, since this topic is more than relevant. Buying a factory model, even when it comes to used equipment, requires a lot of family budget expenses. We will tell you how to assemble a metal drilling machine from improvised means with minimal investment.
To date, there are 2 proven designs that are easy to assemble in "garage" conditions. This is a machine tool based on an electric drill and a unit based on a conventional asynchronous motor from a household appliance. Let's consider each of the options in turn.
Homemade machine based on an electric drill
We will take an ordinary electric drill as the basis of our future machine. This tool is lightweight. This suggests that we do not have to use structures made of durable metals as a stand. Ordinary wooden boards or even chipboard are quite suitable for our purposes.
A homemade metal drilling machine based on a drill consists of four main components, such as a bed, a vertical stand, an electric drill and a feeder. The choice of the base of the machine (bed) is a very crucial moment, since the intensity of vibrations during operation will depend on the strength and massiveness of this design. This is very important, since a massive bed will improve the quality of workpiece processing.
What can be adapted as a base for the machine? If you have a Soviet enlarger at home that was used to develop photographs, you are in luck. After some manipulations, it is easy to turn it into a full-fledged basis for a homemade drilling machine. If you could not find a photographic enlarger even on the used equipment market, you can replace this element with an ordinary design from a 20 mm furniture plate. It will provide sufficient rigidity for precise work.
In the process of fixing the bed on the rack, it is very important that a perfectly right angle be maintained between them. This will increase the accuracy of drilling.
It is necessary to fix two guides on the rack, which can be made from ordinary metal strips. The block with the drill fixed on it by means of clamps will move along the guides. For additional vibration isolation of the tool, it makes sense to put a rubber gasket between the electric drill and the shoe.
The vertical movement of the block must be carried out using a lever. In order not to experience discomfort during drilling, it makes sense to equip the feed mechanism with a spring capable of returning the tool to its original position. The spring must be fixed on the block on one side, and on the fixed beam on the other.
If you do not plan to use an electric drill autonomously, you can take care of the ergonomics of your homemade metal drilling machine. To do this, disassemble the drill switch and install the start button in a place convenient for you.
That, in fact, is all. If you follow the above algorithm, assembling a drilling machine with your own hands will not be a problem for you.
Homemade machine based on an asynchronous motor
If you search carefully, in the household you will most likely find a variety of electric motors from household appliances. The best choice for a metal drilling machine is an asynchronous motor, which is used in drum washing machines.
Be prepared for the fact that the assembly of such a machine will be somewhat more difficult. First of all, you will need a more massive rack that will absorb significant vibrations from the washing machine motor. To minimize them, you need to install the motor closer to the rack and provide a reliable frame. But keep in mind that the close location of the motor relative to the rack complicates the design, since it will be necessary to mount the pulley with the transmission. When assembling such a unit, adjust all parts and assemblies as accurately as possible. The performance of the machine will directly depend on this.
To assemble the pulleys, we need a gear, a hexagon, a metal ring for clamping, 2 bearings and 2 pipe cuts, one of which is with an internal thread.
The movable structure is made of a hexagon, a tube, a ring, bearings and a threaded tube where the cartridge will be fixed. The hexagon acts as a transmission element on which the pulley is put on.
To be sure of the reliability of the connection with the hexagon, it makes sense to make cuts on the ends of the tube on which the ring and bearings are put on. Make sure that all the details of our construction are fixed as securely as possible in order to avoid destruction due to vibrations.
Now let's start creating the adjustment system of our unit. To do this, we use a pipe with cuts and a gear, the teeth of which should easily penetrate into the cuts we made.
To make them as accurate as possible, first apply plasticine to the pipe and run a gear over it. Please note that the ladder pipe must have a height corresponding to the height of the cartridge. The hexagon axle must be pressed into the pre-slotted pipe.
As you understand, the design described above is not easy to manufacture, and not every master is able to bring such a “project” to the end. If you are not sure that you have the skills to assemble such a drilling machine, give preference to the first design based on an electric drill.
conclusions
We have given two of the most successful examples of making do-it-yourself drilling machines. Since the information provided is of a general nature, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the drawings of such equipment in more detail in order to avoid inaccuracies and various kinds of errors during the manufacture of the unit.
Practice shows that an experienced craftsman can easily cope with an ambitious task, such as creating a metal drilling machine on his own. It remains only to wish you good luck.
For all lovers, do-it-yourself product will be a great helper. Such a unit, in a garage or at home, will allow you to make holes with accuracy and accuracy, make milling in wood, drill broken bolts from threads, and so on. However, buying a drilling machine can be quite expensive, and why spend extra money when you can easily make a drilling machine yourself.
General Specifications for Drilling Machine
Drilling machine drawing
For the manufacture will require a minimum of expensive materials. Basically, these are improvised tools that can be found in any garage. Of course, the material must meet the requirements of the apparatus.
For example, for the manufacture of a large stationary machine, one cannot do without a metal frame, and in the case of a desktop unit, only wooden materials can be used.
For all types of structures, three fundamental factors will be required:
- convenient drill feed lever;
- the accuracy of the movement of the drilling mechanism;
- reliable stand.
Undoubtedly, the feed lever should be placed under the working hand of the master, left or right. However, this is not the only condition for convenience. The drill feed lever should not be long, so as not to interfere with work, but not short, so that pressure on the part is easier. For a better idea of arm length, it's worth looking at the blueprints for factory drill presses. There, the length is adjusted to the desired size.
Regardless of which drilling mechanism will be used, it should be fixed with the smallest possible error factor. To do this, the drilling mechanism is best fixed on a vertical rod. However, a solid wood panel with guide rails can be used.
Without a reliable bed, a homemade drilling machine will not only perform poorly, but become dangerous to use. The base of the tool should be twice as wide as the volume of the structure. This width will allow the structure to be stable during the necessary pressure. In this case, the feed lever should not protrude beyond the edges of the bed. This rule does not apply to stationary machines, because they are fixed to the table surface or made with an individual table.
DIY drilling machine
Which engine to use
You can make a homemade drilling machine using several options for the driving force:
- from a drill or screwdriver;
- from an electric motor;
- from a hand drill.
In this case, for each type of structure, the characteristics of a stationary, portable or desktop machine will be determined. In the case of an electric motor, you can make a stationary or desktop device, and in the case of an electric drill, you get either a desktop or portable unit. A hand drill can at all carry the character of a portable device that does not require power.
Drill as a machine tool
In order to get a good drilling machine from a do-it-yourself drill, it is better to make a desktop design for this tool. In this case, it is worth avoiding fixing the machine on the table. An electronic drill is a fairly popular tool, so it will be useful if it can be removed from the machine. In this case, the design on the table will be superfluous.
A desktop filler machine will require the following materials: 
- bed 45x30 cm, with a vertical bar attached to it;
- drill mount, well wrapped around the body of the tool;
- metal slider moving along the bar;
- a wheel that plays the role of a lever;
- steel cable, to control the movement of the lever.
For the bed, it is better to use a metal box with a wall thickness of 3 mm. To the box, a square pipe stand is welded. This stand will serve as a barbell or tripod. Next, a tight slider should be attached to the tripod, which will hold the drill holder and the drill itself.
It will be difficult to choose exactly the right slider, so it should be made of metal plates. The free space between the slider and the tripod should be no more than 0.5 mm, moreover, the tripod will be perfectly level.
Further sequence of actions:
- the slider is made 10-12 cm high;
- to it, a holder for a drill is welded on the front side and lugs for mounting the wheel on the back side;
- in the ears, a rod is threaded to which the control wheel is welded, and fixed with a cotter pin or a welded nut;
- on the wheel shaft, a steel cable is tightly wound (at least 6 turns), and both ends of the cable are securely attached to the top and bottom of the tripod. Thus, it will take effort to move the slider on the tripod, and its own weight (together with the drill) will not be enough for the slider to fall.
Drilling structure from an electric motor
Such machines are excellent in the role of stationary tools. In order to figure out how to make a drilling machine from an electric motor, you will have to consider the drawings and delve into the field of electrics.
For the machine, a two-phase motor is required, which will greatly simplify the connection and expand the scope of the unit. Such an engine is connected to phase and neutral wires. Incorrect connection will only affect the direction of rotation. If the rotation is in the opposite direction, then the wires are reversed, and the problem is solved.
When making a stationary structure for drilling, you will need:
- a powerful frame for the engine, which will easily move along a vertical line;
- countertop, where the pin will be fixed along a strict vertical line;
- as a pin, can be taken from the car. It will serve as a ready-made engine-moving device;
- attach a wheel for movement and weld the engine holder to the rail.
The working principle of this machine is very simple. The motor drives the drill head through a belt drive. At the same time, the engine and the drill chuck are inseparable during operation and move along a vertical line at the same time, thanks to the joint fastening.
Portable mechanism from a hand drill
It is very convenient to use a drilling machine from a hand drill in cases where it is not possible to connect an electric drill to a power source. For the manufacture of the machine, you can use a wooden frame:
- the base is made of a board 30x20 cm and a thickness of 40 mm;
- a vertical plank is attached strictly at an angle of 90 ° C;
- the vertical wall should also be made of a thick board, at least 30 mm, and metal corners and screws will help to secure it securely.
Metal skids are attached to the vertical wall (they can be taken from old furniture or bought in a store), a hand drill holder is attached to them. Thus, the drill will move freely up and down, however, this is not enough. To prevent the drill from falling under its own weight, a spring of the required elasticity is attached to the drill holder and the base of the machine.
Do not forget about the handle, which will need to be twisted. Nothing should interfere with her movement. The result should be a unit that is driven manually and does not require power.
Video: Do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill
It is not necessary to spend money on a bench drill, because it is not so difficult to make it yourself. To do this, you will need to purchase, manufacture or use used parts. We will walk you through the creation of several designs, and you will be able to choose your own model for assembly.
Almost every owner who builds or renovates his house or apartment, repairs household and garden equipment, and various crafts made of metal and wood has a drill. But for some operations, a drill is not enough: you need special accuracy, you need to drill a hole at a right angle in a thick board, or you just want to make your work easier. This will require a machine that can be made on the basis of various drives, machine parts or household appliances, and other available material.
The type of drive is a fundamental difference in the designs of home-made drilling machines. Some of them are made using a drill, mostly electric, others - using engines, most often from unnecessary household appliances.
Desktop drilling machine from a drill
The most common design can be considered a machine made from a manual or electric drill, which can be made removable, so that it can be used outside the machine, and stationary. In the latter case, the switching device can be transferred to the frame for greater convenience.
Main elements of the machine
The main elements of the machine are:
- drill;
- base;
- rack;
- drill mount;
- feed mechanism.
The base or bed can be made from a solid cut of hardwood, furniture board or chipboard. Some prefer a metal plate, channel or brand as a base. The bed must be massive in order to provide stability to the structure and compensate for vibrations during drilling in order to obtain neat and accurate holes. The size of the frame made of wood is at least 600x600x30 mm, from steel sheet - 500x500x15 mm. For greater stability, the base can be made with lugs or bolt holes and fastened to a workbench.
The rack can be made of a bar, round or square in section of a steel pipe. Some craftsmen use the frame of an old photographic enlarger, a substandard school microscope, and other parts that have a suitable configuration, strength and weight as a base and stand.
The drill is fastened with clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. The bracket is more reliable and gives greater accuracy when drilling.
Design features of the drill feed mechanism
The feed mechanism is needed to move the drill vertically along the rack and can be:
- spring;
- articulated;
- screw jack design.
Depending on the type of mechanism adopted, the type and arrangement of the rack will also differ.
The drawings and photos show the main designs of bench drilling machines that can be made from electric and hand drills.
With a spring mechanism: 1 - rack; 2 - metal or wooden profile; 3 - slider; 4 - hand drill; 5 - drill clamp; 6 - screws for fastening the clamp; 7 - spring; 8 - square for fixing the rack 2 pcs.; 9 - screws; 10 - emphasis for the spring; 11 - wing bolt for fastening the stop; 12 - machine base
With spring-lever mechanism
With a spring-hinged mechanism: 1 - frame; 2 - washer; 3 - nut M16; 4 - suspension struts 4 pcs.; 5 - plate; 6 - bolt M6x16; 7 - power supply; 8 - thrust; 9 - spring; 10 - M8x20 bolt with nut and washers; 11 - drill chuck; 12 - shaft; 13 - cover; 14 - handle; 15 - bolt M8x20; 16 - holder; 17 - rack; 18 - a glass with a bearing; 19 - engine
With articulated springless mechanism
Rack, working on the principle of a screw jack: 1 - frame; 2 - guide groove; 3 - M16 thread; 4 - sleeve; 5 - nut welded to the sleeve; 6 - drill; 7 - handle, during the rotation of which the drill moves up or down
Drilling and milling machine: 1 - machine base; 2 - supports of the lifting plate of the table 2 pcs.; 3 - lifting plate; 4 - table lifting handle; 5 - movable drill holder; 6 - additional rack; 7 - screw fixing the drill holder; 8 - drill clamp; 9 - main rack; 10 - lead screw; 11 - drum with Nonius scale
Machine from a car jack and a drill
The carriage is made of furniture guides
Mini-machine from a decommissioned microscope
Base and stand from an old photographic enlarger
Machine from a hand drill: 1 - bed; 2 - steel clamps; 3 - grooves for attaching a drill; 4 - drill fastening nut; 5 - drill; 6 - slider; 7 - guide tubes
Video 1. Step-by-step guide for an inexpensive machine. The bed and the rack are wooden, the basis of the mechanism is a furniture guide
Video 2. Drilling machine - a jack from the Zhiguli and a drill
Video 3. Spring-lever stand for a drill
Video 4. Step by step creation of a steel stand for a drill
Machine based on the steering rack of a car
The steering rack for a car and a drill are quite massive products, so the bed must also be massive and, preferably, with the ability to fix the machine on a workbench. All elements are welded, as the connection with bolts and screws may not be sufficient.
The bed and the support post are welded from channels or other suitable rolled products, about 5 mm thick. The steering rack is fixed to the rack, which should be 70-80 mm longer than the rack, through the lugs of the steering column.
To make it more convenient to use the machine, the control of the drill is taken out in a separate block.
Video 5. Drilling machine based on the steering rack from Moskvich
The order of assembly of drilling desktop machines:
- preparation of all elements;
- fastening the rack to the frame (checking the verticality!);
- assembly of the movement mechanism;
- fastening the mechanism to the rack;
- drill mount (check verticality!).
All fasteners must be made as securely as possible. It is desirable to connect steel one-piece structures by welding. When using any kind of guides, you need to make sure that there is no lateral play during movement.
Advice! To fix the part in which the hole is drilled, the machine can be equipped with a vice.
On sale you can also find ready-made racks for a drill. When buying, you need to pay attention to the mass of the structure and the size of the working surface. Light (up to 3 kg) and inexpensive (up to 1.5 thousand rubles) racks are suitable for making holes in a thin plywood sheet.
Drilling machine using asynchronous motor
If there is no drill on the farm or it is not desirable to use it in the machine, you can make a design based on an asynchronous motor, for example, from an old washing machine. The scheme and manufacturing process of such a machine are quite complex, so it is better to do it by a master with sufficient experience in turning and milling, assembling electrical circuits.
The device of a drilling machine with an engine from household appliances
To get acquainted with the design, we present assembly drawings and detailing, as well as the characteristics of assembly units in the specifications.
Details and materials for the manufacture of the machine are shown in the table:
Table 1
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300x175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main rack | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and threaded M12 |
| 4 | Spring | L=100-120mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | lead screw | Тr16х2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Тr16х2 | |
| 9 | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | ||
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of the driving pulleys of the V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one groove to another |
| 15 | electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | ||
| 18 | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | ||
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, made of wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | ||
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | ||
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | Drive V-belt "zero" profile, so the pulley block grooves have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Mains cable with plug | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool Chuck No. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head provides both translational and rotational motion. It is mounted on its own base - duralumin console.
Details and materials for the manufacture of the spindle head are shown in the table:
table 2
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Steel circle Ø 12 mm | |
| 2 | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm | |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Special screw M6 with knurled button | |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm | |
| 10 | Bearing | angular contact |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
Drilling machine assembled
The electrical circuit depends on the type of engine.
A simple electrical circuit for a factory machine 2M112
Homemade machines for drilling printed circuit boards
Mini-board drilling machines for radio amateurs also borrow a drive from various low-power devices. At the same time, cutters for cropping photographs are used as levers, soldering irons, collet pencils instead of a cartridge. The drilling site is illuminated with LED flashlights - there are enough opportunities for technical creativity.
A simple electric motor control circuit
Video 7. Mini board drilling machine
Those who have ever used an electric drill have encountered difficulties when it is necessary to make a bunch of holes. Paul troubles if there are holes in the board, but to make holes in the metal? To do this, the industry came up with a drilling machine. Those who have it are very lucky, and those who do not have it, prepare their pocket.
My pocket, personally, is small, so I can’t afford a factory drilling machine. Well, Chinese, made of tin, of course I can afford it, but it's bullshit. Soviet, semi-complete, are unreasonably expensive. I didn’t consider store racks for drills in principle, they were painfully “childish”. Wandering around the Internet I found a lot of homemade products, but the presence of turning works stopped me. You can order a couple of parts from a turner, but no one wants to share normal drawings, and when you design a part, a joint will always come out. A jamb came out - run back to the turner and ask to fix it. But one day I came across an interesting video from Zhelezjaka about a homemade stand for a drill. Simple design, repeatable and versatile. While watching the video Zhelezjaka there were no analogues of this design yet.
I was going to make this rack for a year, and maybe more. After I went on vacation, I finally got to work. He made his own adjustments to the design, they do not fundamentally change the machine, but they unify the materials and reduce the manufacturing time of some elements. I tried to use the minimum amount of purchased material, I tried to use the garbage that I had. But still not without shopping. From the main one, I bought a pipe for the guide, a corner and a strip, each position 1 meter.
Now we look at the manufacturing process. Actually, the guide for the carriage is also made of a square pipe 40x40x3 mm. I bought iron in a small hardware store, metal-roll is stored there almost in the open air and does not particularly shine with quality. But this has one advantage, there you can feel everything and choose better. And so it happened. From the beginning I wanted to take a pipe with a wall thickness of 2 mm, but the seller and I could not choose an even piece. I took it with a wall thickness of 3 mm, thick-walled pipes are much smoother. Steel is steel and traces of corrosion are an integral part of it. Therefore, I had to clean almost the entire rental, especially the guide. I did not bring it to the state of cat's pride.
I forgot to say that in advance I prepared a set of preliminary drawings, according to which I made the basic elements. A set of final drawings will be posted at the end of the article. Workpiece mode in size. Here is the first deviation from the author's project, I took the corner for the carriage and bracket 45x45x4 mm. A 40x40 pipe fits perfectly into it, you don’t need to cut anything and an excellent mounting gap is formed (seen in the photo below). I tried to repeat the author's manufacturing technology.
I put sandpaper, pressed it with clamps on the guide, brewed everything from the heart. And then remove the figurines, clamps so that "mom do not cry"! I was able to remove the rack bracket only by knocking it on the rest of the 45th corner. Next, I cut the entire corner, welded the carriage, put twice as much sandpaper and that's it .... How many obscene words were spent, cigarettes were smoked and everything that moved nearby was cursed, I can’t remember, but it didn’t work out to separate one from the other. How the author is so simple, I do not know. And the technology, in my opinion, should be as follows: we put it in a double-folded sandpaper -> we crimp it with clamps -> we grab the edges at all four corners by welding -> we completely weld one of the edges -> let it cool completely -> try to remove it from the mandrel. If it came off the frame, then boil the second edge. If it doesn’t work, then we cut off the tacks on the unwelded edge and gently remove the guide. In the photo below are already welded blanks, the smallest will not be used.
The bed was made from what was. And I had almost a meter of channel 8. I adjusted the length of the frame to the length of the remainder of the square pipe, which remained after the manufacture of the guide. Below is a picture of the rack bracket installation process. To be honest, this design of the bed is not very good. The shelves of the channel are all crooked, one piece has a concavity, the other has a convexity. Horror, not rental. He pretended to put it at a right angle, though it is not clear to which plane. I will deal with perpendicularity later.
and back. There are two threaded holes in the back panel. These holes will serve to fix the machine in a horizontal position when processing wood.
And fasteners for fixing the rack in a vertical position. A lone bolt is welded for grounding. Holes for the wires are not visible here, but they are in the drawings.
About adjustable feet. By some chance, there were no standard legs from a refrigerator or washing machine, I’m just amazed. I had to make a bolt and an enlarged washer, the price of the issue was a couple of kopecks. But I had those things in which the legs are twisted, but high nuts are perfect in their place.
Drum, the one that will scroll the cable. I approached the manufacture of this part creatively. It works exactly the same, but is done differently. It is difficult to find steel bars with a diameter of more than 10 mm in a home barn, and my barn is no exception. Plus immediately solved the issue of a removable handle. As an axis, I used an M10 bolt with a short GOST thread. Having cut off the excess from it, I got a smooth axis. The bolt head will serve as a kind of engagement element for the axle with the handle. The water pipe will serve as the outer part of the drum. If you don’t have such a pipe in your metal garbage, then you can replace it with a drive bought at the nearest plumbing store. To center the axle, I had to make bushings, so to speak, by hand, without a lathe. To do this, I clamped two M10 nuts on the remaining trim of the bolt (do not throw away the trim, it will come in handy later), inserted it into a drill and turned the entire structure on an electric grinder. Since there is no longer a thread on the trim of the bolt, the thread in the bushings must also be drilled out. A hole with an M5 thread is made in the bolt head for attaching the handle. It turned out pretty good.
In the picture below, I have already welded the bushings to the axle, the main thing is not to forget to put on one of the eyes first. Holes are made in the outer cage of the drum through which the cage will be welded to the bushings. All dimensions and clearances are shown in the drawings.
Here is the result:
Carriage. There is nothing special to tell here, we collect everything according to the drawings. Only one addition. In the original, the carriage is stopped by one of the adjusting bolts. After all, they are adjusting, so as not to touch them, so after welding all the parts, I made an additional threaded hole specifically for the locking bolt. I made the thread for the adjusting bolts only with a rough tap to get rid of spontaneous unwinding.
View from the other side. Excuse my welds, as I can, I cook.
The handle is the lever. After looking at the photo, do not throw tomatoes. In my performance, the lever is made of an open-end wrench for 17. It had a broken cape, so I gave a second life to the missing key.
On the one hand, I welded a homemade washer from a strip onto the cap part of the key.
Further, an element which is not in the original design is an emphasis. This stop is attached to the top of the guide post and is used when fixing the machine in a horizontal position. The pole mounting holes are not aligned to minimize rotation of the stop.
Another new detail. I named it "table". Since the plane of my bed is missing, I had to dodge. It is made from a piece of laminated chipboard, not the best option, but so far so. With the help of screws, I have the opportunity to set the work plane perpendicular to the rack.
This is how it looks. The photo also showed an auxiliary carriage, on which a ruler and a woodworking tool will be placed.
And here you can see the element of the table adjustment.
It's time to make a bracket for mounting the drill. And again, the materials that I had were used. Clamp from a strip of 25x4 mm, removal from the pipe 30x30x2. This strip fits perfectly inside the pipe, which makes it easy to attach one to the other. And this turn of the clamp ensures perfect alignment. The clamp is made by tapping a strip around a pipe with a diameter of 40 - 42 mm.
A little closer.
And carefully brew. I was worried about the quality of these seams, since this place is the weakest in the whole construction.
Let's put aside the welder for a while and get down to the drill. As I said, I was going to make a machine for a whole year. During this time, he got a drill, which is not a pity. They gave it to me as it was not working. Inside, the wire was simply transferred and over time it burned out in this place. The wire was corrected, but the drill, as you can see, is very tired and full of backlash. First of all, the cartridge and rolling bearings went under the replacement. The shank bushing was also broken.
To be honest, I would have torn off the hands of these designers, who added a ratchet function to a simple drill. Zero sense, the bearings are broken and the axial stroke of the cartridge adds to all the delights. The most interesting thing, at least in this drill, is that the ratchet assembly is the same size as the outer race of bearing No. 608. My attempts to knock the ratchet out of the silumin clip failed, I had to cut off the teeth with a hacksaw and go to the market to look for a bronze bushing. And on the market for this sleeve they broke an absurd price, which I was very offended by and basically left with nothing. In place of the bronze gold bushing, the inner race from the same 608 bearing fits perfectly in size. One bad thing is that this replacement is one-time, next time you will have to change the sleeve along with the chuck shaft. Let's see how long it lives. To eliminate the axial movement of the shaft, instead of a repulsive spring, I installed a bushing made of a sanitary fitting, and on the other side I placed a turned washer. The bearings have been replaced, the backlash has been eliminated, the mechanisms have been lubricated.
Attention, the faint of heart, please do not look at the following picture! Since this drill was specially reserved for the machine, I tried to make it so that it could only work in this machine. I cut off the handle. From the barbarian ... The start button was removed, the reverse lever remained in its native place, the cut was covered with a neat cap.
And what did I end up with. I placed the button in the cavity of the bed, made a threaded hole in the front panel and screwed the adjusting screw there. Thus, I received a remote speed control unit. You tighten the screw, it gradually presses the button that changes the speed of the drill. Separately, I mounted a toggle switch for turning on the machine.
Below is the process of assembling the spindle bracket. I fixed the guide from the printer into the cartridge, which made it possible to relatively accurately set the axis of the tool perpendicular to the table.
Here is the welded bracket. Immediately made a hole in the table and bed. In the bed, I cut a thread for screwing in the center to hold the wooden workpiece during turning. Then he began to procure parts for the manufacture of a handkerchief (Handler - a stand for a cutting tool on a lathe).
And here he is, ready. It turned out to be a simplified functionality, there is no height adjustment. I have never worked on a wood lathe in my life, and on metal, too, I will learn and try.
And in principle the machine is ready, almost the maximum load was chosen for the test. The first serious hole was made with a 13 mm drill in the front panel of the machine for installing a toggle switch, let me remind you that the panel is made of a 4 mm thick strip. The result exceeded all expectations, without pre-drilling and with a minimum of effort, without even straining, I drilled a hole in a matter of seconds. I rejoiced, the state of euphoria passed and noble traces of young rust began to rush into my eyes. I was in a hurry to collect everything and did not bother to paint it in detail. Now I have to take it all apart.
As always, I waited for a cold snap to start painting. Therefore, I had to paint in the barn, not a pleasant pleasure, paint on the street. I chose green, this association since childhood - if the machine, then green.
Bed painting. Too lazy to take out the wire, the collective farm is the collective farm.
The paint has dried and here is the result of the work:
On the other side:
And in lathe position:
Here are the promised drawings. I ask all normocontrollers and very smart ones not to comment on the drawings, and not even to look :)) it's a joke. Use on health! I even made a specification by which you can estimate the amount of necessary materials. But I must warn you, do not blindly believe the drawings, double-check, I'm not a robot and I can sometimes make mistakes.
The result is a great tool. I can’t fully appreciate the turning version yet, since I only have a chisel instead of incisors. But as a drill there is a couple of "buts":
- Try to make the bed like the author Zhelezjaka, the design will be simpler, lighter and smoother.
- One shoulder handle is terribly uncomfortable, it is difficult to explain what the inconvenience is, but uncomfortable. I will remake in three shoulder. In my version, it's simple, unscrewed one and screwed the other. If you do it according to the original version, then pay attention to this.
- The handle is taken out, as it were, behind the machine, which increases the required free space. In the future, I will carry it closer to the spindle by means of a chain drive.
- The front center (the jagged thing that rotates the wood stock) doesn't hold the wood very well. The structure needs to be changed.
And do not forget to use personal protective equipment when working. Do not violate safety regulations, no matter how stupid and ridiculous they may seem.
Everyone who uses a hand drill knows how difficult it is to keep a strict vertical with your hands. When drilling workpieces of large thickness, there is a risk of breaking the drill. Every time there is a desire to guide the tool along the guide, but there is no such possibility.
The second common task is to drill many holes of the same type in one workpiece. Holding a drill in your hands, doing such work is long and inconvenient.
Since ancient times, locksmith workshops have used drilling machines of various capacities. But their cost for home purchase is too high.
In addition, the home master does not perform drilling on an industrial scale. Therefore, such a purchase will never pay off.
There are factory-made vertical drilling fixtures that can turn a hand drill into a full-fledged drilling machine. Many of them are equipped with coordinate plates and movable vise.
Stand vertical for drilling holes with a drill
This is a really convenient purchase, but the cost of such a machine is comparable to the cost of a drill. Therefore, home craftsmen often make a homemade drilling machine.
The main advantages of the design- cheap and the ability to create a fixture that is perfectly compatible with your hand drill. If there is an unnecessary photographic enlarger, microscope or other mechanism with a vertical feed of the working unit in the house (barn, garage), the task is simplified.
Homemade stand from an old microscope
It remains only to adapt the drill to the product. If there is no such bonus, the stand is made from scratch.
How to make a machine out of a drill using improvised materials
What should the guide stand for a hand drill consist of?
stable bed
Preferably with the possibility of installing a vice or other device that holds the workpiece. At home, it is made of thick chipboard, plywood, or textolite. In the center of the axis of the drill being installed, it is necessary to leave a hole with a diameter of a couple of centimeters.
Description of the necessary parts of a drilling machine from a drill
Guide upright
Here the imagination of developers is unlimited. It can be a bar, plywood plate, metal profile or pipe.
The main principle in the manufacture is a strict vertical in relation to the supporting frame. Otherwise, the drill will deviate from the rectilinear movement, spoil the workpiece and break.
Movement mechanism
It can be a lever type, or use a pair of gear-rack. It doesn't really matter which design you choose. It is important to observe the principle of the availability of materials, otherwise it may turn out that it is cheaper to purchase a finished product.
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The mechanism for lifting and lowering is made by hand from boards |
The second example of a lifting mechanism made of metal |
Moreover, not only a drill can be supplied to the workpiece. Sometimes it is more convenient to lift the product to the drill. For example - on compact models.
Bracket for hand drill
The ideal solution is to use a seat for the handle of a drill with a clamp grip. It encloses the shaft bearing and is optimally suited for centering the entire structure.
