The principle of fastening the railing to the wall, the required material and installation features. Installing Handrails on Ladder, Wall - Mounting Options Fastening Wooden Handrails to the Wall

Wall-mounted handrails made of wood are not only a decorative element, but also a functional part of the staircase. They are equally needed both in residential buildings and in office premises.

After all, for safe descent from the stairs, there must be handrails for which you can hold onto.

Requirements for a railing made of wood

Before proceeding to consider how to correctly make wall fasteners for wooden handrails, you should dwell in detail on the requirements that such parts must meet.

These requirements apply to both the material itself and the features of the fastening of the structure.

1. It is imperative to take into account the peculiarities of the interior where it is planned to fix the handrails. They must match it. Otherwise, the design will look very ridiculous and soon get bored.
2. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the wood. It is best if it is an oak tree. As practice shows, oak wooden elements serve for many years. But even if handrails are purchased from other wood, make sure that it does not have cracks, so that it is treated against fungus and pests. Otherwise, the handrails will only bring additional troubles.
3. In the process of attaching the handrails to the wall, care must be taken to ensure that no cracks or gaps are formed. Then the structure will be pressed as tightly as possible to the wall, which will prevent insects from appearing in the cracks, and will also increase the rigidity of the fastening itself.
4. Wooden handrails must be absolutely smooth. Their safety will largely depend on this. It is also important to achieve smoothness at the joints if the handrails are made of multiple planks. For this, it is recommended to use special adapter covers that will cover the joints. The edges should not be jagged either. Rounded handrails are ideal.
5. It is necessary to choose the shape of the handrails based on the design features of the staircase. So, if the staircase is small and absolutely straight, then straight handrails will do. In the event that the staircase has a complex shape and numerous transitions, it is necessary to give preference to curved or stepped handrails. Remember that the handrails on the wall and on the stairs themselves must also match.
6. The width of the handrail should be such that even a child can easily grasp it with his hand. Otherwise, the structure will not have the required functionality. At the same time, the height at which the wall handrails will be located should be about 90 cm. It is quite enough for the convenience of moving people up and down stairs, both short and tall.

Mounting features

The handrail can be attached to the wall in different ways. For a quick and high-quality implementation of work, you need to follow the basic rules. After all, each type of fastening has its own requirements. Let's consider the main features of fastening wooden handrails to the wall.

Fixing to the base

The most popular method, which is often used to attach wooden railings to a wall near stairs, is to fix wood planks to a pre-prepared base. There is nothing difficult here if you follow the principles.

So, first you need to make markings along which the base will be attached. If the staircase is complex, then it is best to invite a master for this purpose, who will help you do the work accurately and without distortions. Further, according to the markings, a thin wooden or metal strip is attached to the wall, which will serve as a base. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or bolts - depending on what material the wall is made of. Please note that you can only mount wooden wall handrails in this way on load-bearing walls!

After the base is ready, it remains to fix the main element on top of it - the handrail. Everything is much simpler here. You need to fasten the handrail, fixing with screws. If necessary, small special overlapping strips are installed at the joints, which will make moving along the stairs as safe as possible and add additional decorativeness to the railings.

Fastening handrails to wall posts

Another method is to attach wall-mounted wooden handrails to posts, which are additionally installed in the immediate vicinity of the wall. This method is already suitable for walls that are not load-bearing, since all the main load will fall on the vertical posts.

This video shows the process of making a handrail mount:

It is best to fit the handrails using the screw-in hinge principle. This is how it is done. First, markings are carried out, after which vertical balusters are placed, which are securely attached to the floor. The distance between the balusters and the wall should be 4-5 cm. Approximately every 30 cm, it is necessary to additionally fix the balusters not only on the floor, but also against the wall. It is best to do this with special metal corners. When the balusters are finished, proceed directly to attaching the wooden handrail.

To do this, the railing is put on the balusters so that the first ones are firmly attached to the threaded studs, connected to each other by hinge elements. Now it remains with the help of screws to fix the fasteners on the thread or simply tighten them (depending on the type of connecting elements). The hats can be closed with special wooden covers. Be sure to check everything by level to avoid distortions. When the railing is already fixed against the wall, it will be very difficult to fix everything.

This video shows the process of attaching a wooden wall rail:

So, how the wall fastening of a wooden handrail is carried out is now clear. Observing simple rules, you can do it quickly and efficiently. Further service life will largely depend on the loads and the quality of the base material.

One of the main criteria for the quality of a ladder is its safety. It can be fully ensured by a staircase, but only if its installation was carried out taking into account all the design features, as well as its location in the space of the room. This article will focus on how to fix the railing on the wall, which bolts and brackets to choose for the handrail, what are the installation features.

Holder types

If the handrail is attached to the balusters, then at the bottom the balusters are attached to the steps, and at the top they are connected to the handrail or bar, which will then become part of the structure. If the ladder is located along the wall, you can fix the handrail to the wall using holders. And here it is important to choose the most suitable option correctly.

There are several types of holders, which differ in the way of fastening:

With overhead lodgment. There are two types:

Driving. They differ from the others in that one side of the mount is hammered into the groove provided for this on the handrail, and the other is fixed on the wall.

Instruments

In order to attach the handrail to the wall, you will need the following set of tools:

To ensure your safety while working, it is also worth preparing protective goggles and gloves.

Fastening process

There is a specific sequence of steps for installing a handrail, which may vary slightly according to the choice of bracket. However, in any case, it is necessary to prepare a preliminary drawing with the dimensions applied to it, which will help to avoid mistakes in work.

For attachment with overhead lodgment:

For driven structures:

Note: To connect the railing at the folds, an element such as a zipbolt is used, which will provide a reliable and inconspicuous fastening.

The installation of the handrail is a very responsible event, therefore it is imperative to carry out thorough measurements. Indeed, the reliability and durability of the future structure depends on this.

One of the main components of the staircase construction is its railing. It carries out a protective and decorative task, consists of balusters, main intermediate and support posts, handrails, and protection screens. Railings help a person move safely along the flight of stairs. They provide support while walking and prevent falls over the perimeter of the stairs. The article discusses how to install ladder elements, as well as fastening the handrail to the wall.

Balusters - the most important component of the stair railing

In order to correctly install the fence, you need to know how to fasten handrails and balusters based on their type and production material.
Balusters are supports that are vertical. It is on them that the handrail is laid. Place them directly on the steps or carry out installation to stringers or bowstrings. The configuration of balusters can be different and is determined by the interior design of the building, structural staircase features, style solution, and, of course, by the price. They can decorate even a very nondescript flight of stairs. Balusters are made from materials such as wood, steel, concrete, stone, glass, plaster.

Today you can often see stair rails, in which there are two or three types of building materials that are ideally combined with each other. The method of mounting the baluster to the span depends on the material, and it is which option is best to choose.

Necessary Requirements

In order for the staircase fence to be reliable and safe, a number of prerequisites must be observed during its installation:

• the distance in the light between the balusters should be at least 150 millimeters;
• the safe height of the railing must be at least 900 millimeters;
• fasteners for the railings must be done at 2 points - to the railings and the staircase structure (steps, stringers, bowstrings);
• fastening the handrail to the wall should be extremely smooth and comfortable, but not slippery; next to the wall, they can be fixed directly to it without mounting balusters.

The main protective task of the railing is performed by the support posts - the upper and lower ones, therefore you need to approach them very responsibly. Although the installation of intermediate balusters must also be treated carefully. It is necessary that the fence can withstand a hundred-kilogram person who is leaning on it.

The entire installation of the handrail consists of the following stages:

• the extreme pillars of the support are mounted from below and from above;
• the locations of the baluster structures are marked - for this you can use a thin, but durable cord, or a laser level; it is important to remember that the exact parameters of the layout are very important and avoid unnecessary problems;
• axial lines are drawn in the center of the balusters thanks to a marker or pencil;
• the upper baluster ends are being prepared. They need to be sawed off according to the slope of the staircase march. Sawing of the ends from below is carried out only when the vertical supporting elements are placed over the bowstring or the fasteners for the railing have a personal design.

Wooden staircase railing

The main bearing components of the fences can be fixed to the steps with simple studs, but such a device will loosen quite quickly and after a short time period it will become unusable.

There are 3 main methods for making handrail fasteners stronger, baluster handrails are installed in a similar way. Fastenings are performed on dowels, on self-tapping screws, as well as on hairpins. When the railing is installed on steel pins, a hole with a depth of no more than 80 millimeters is drilled in the middle of the end of the bottom of the wooden baluster structure. Its diameter is usually 12 millimeters.

It is important to take into account that the studs, in order to avoid corrosion, must be galvanized. The hairpin is inserted into the hole so that it protrudes 5 - 7 centimeters beyond the coverage. Thanks to a special glue, they are fixed in the required position and are waiting for its final setting. Then a hole is drilled in the bowstring or steps and the balusters are “set” in place thanks to the same glue and pins that are installed in the balusters.

Installation of balusters on dowels, which are thorns made of rounded wood, is done as follows:

• in the baluster ends from below and on the bowstring or steps, larger holes are drilled than for metal studs;
• dowels are inserted into the prepared grooves, using glue for fastening, which is identical to PVA;
• a baluster is installed on the dowels, filling the finished holes with glue in a preliminary way;
• the verticality of the pillars is checked due to the level or plumb line and they are left for 2 - 3 hours before the glue completely hardens;
• proceed with the installation (in particular, fastening the handrail to the wall).

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The handrail is an important part to ensure the safety of the staircase. The realities of today are such that there are many design solutions that apply new material properties. Sometimes such ladders, handrail fastening techniques, design options for side rails use components that work at the ultimate strength.

Accepted standards

Relatively recently, there were clear requirements for the dimensions of the stairs, the number and height of steps, the angle of inclination, as well as the design and number of handrails. Attachment techniques were clearly limited. They touched balusters and "starting points" - places where railings or railings begin and end. These are the requirements

• with a height difference of a meter or more, fences are required;

• the minimum height of handrails and other fences is 90 cm;
• if the ladder is more than 12 m above ground level, the height of the fences must be at least 110 cm;
• the distance between the posts of lattice fences should not be more than 160 cm;
• the height of the first handrail should be 900 mm from the ridge of the step;
• for additional safety of children, balusters should be located at a distance of no more than 120 mm if the ladder is located higher than one and a half meters from the floor;
• stairs must have a handrail on one side if their width reaches 125 cm;
• for larger widths - up to 2.5 m - it was assumed that the fences were to be installed on both sides;
• all railings of one staircase must have the same slope;

• the minimum load requirement is 110 kgf / m. This is the load that the railing must withstand in the lateral direction.

There are also recognized standards for the installation of handrail posts. The classical method - for them, recesses are made, at least six centimeters deep. After installing the racks, the free space is filled with cement or concrete. To prevent loosening, a shoe made of cast iron, copper or steel is put on top. On the top of the racks, the obligatory presence of a strip of iron with a thickness of at least four millimeters was required. With the help of this tape, the railing was attached to the balusters. The railing posts were required to be located at a distance of at least 60 mm from the edge of the stairs.

Today's fencing options

It should be noted right away that modern solutions without fencing, as in the above photo, or options for fencing with cables are complete irresponsibility and ignoring safety rules.

Otherwise, the generally accepted methods of fastening the railings to the wall and to the floor have been preserved. However, new materials and design solutions allow three types of fastening:

1. Vertical to the floor or stair tread.
2. On the side, at the end of the bowstring of the stairs or the balcony slab.
3. On the other side of a slab or staircase.

In terms of "interaction with the wall", the fastening parameters have changed little. The classic solutions are used - anchor bolts or a welded connection with pre-set anchor points. There is a technique when the elements on which the handrail is mounted are structurally a special part of the load-bearing elements of the walls. Also, the use of bearing points is implied in cases where it is required to fasten the railing to the posts.

When it comes to cases when you need to attach a ready-made railing structure to the wall, use the following method. Power points are created at the attachment points of the fittings. These are usually anchor bolts securely embedded in the wall. In the recent past, cement was used for this. Today, polymer adhesives are widely used, which adhere perfectly to the surrounding wall material and firmly glue the anchor. After that, a handrail with a handrail is mounted on the designed power elements. The whole process of work can be seen in general terms in the video.

Most often, it is required to fasten the railing of wooden stairs to the wall. This is the best choice for a very simple reason - the strength and durability characteristics of a wooden structure are usually much lower than those of the surrounding walls.

Fixing handrails to stairs and floor

Fastening racks and railing balusters to the surface of a floor or staircase is a more complex issue.

The classic method is to act according to standards. In fact, today most decisions follow the accepted requirements, for example, as in the photo. A recess is made in the surface into which the rack is installed. A shoe is put on top, which, in turn, is also securely attached to the surface. In addition, it firmly locks the stand, preventing it from rolling or loosening.

The side attachment of the handrail posts is the attachment to the end of the stair string or the balcony slab. This method can be carried out using the appropriate fittings. Usually this is a power block into which the rack is inserted and rigidly fixed. The full load bearing member can be attached using anchor bolts or spacer tubes. An option is possible when it is simply welded to special zones made on the bowstring of the stairs or taken out of the stove.

The option for attaching the other side of the bowstring works like a hybrid of the first two solutions. Requires a rigid fixation of the rack and, at the same time, the power element of the fastener. In this case, two techniques are usually applied.

1. A through hole is made in the slab or stair element. The entire block that fixes the rack is on the back side.
2. The recess for installing the rack is blind. However, there is a hole for the passage of a bolt, one or more, that connects the bottom of the rack and the load-bearing element located on the other side.