Plates can be placed on gas silicate blocks. Floor slabs

Overlapping is Basic structure designed for dividing floors in large-panel construction or separation living rooms from attic rooms in brick, frame private houses. It is located horizontally, as a rule, consists of reinforced concrete slabs, but it can be monolithic or precast-monolithic. Must be strong enough to support its own weight, other parts of the structure and current loads (furniture, people, etc.). The installation of floor slabs is usually carried out according to a project drawn up by an engineer, thus avoiding unnecessary additional costs and ensures the reliability of the buildings being erected.

For private construction, you can calculate the plan yourself and select the appropriate materials. Reinforced concrete products for individual developers are affordable, allow for hidden communications in voids, have good sound insulation. In order to select them correctly, it is advisable to navigate in their types, types, marking.

Reinforced concrete floor slabs are as follows:

hollow - have air cavities of a circular cross-section, due to which they have good soundproofing and heat-insulating properties;
ribbed - in the form of the letter P, used for roofing, more often - in industrial construction for covering garages, hangars, warehouses, laying communications and other things;
monolithic - reinforced structures of increased strength, designed for high loads, therefore, they are usually used for the construction of multi-storey residential complexes.

Floor slab marking

The material certified in accordance with GOST has a set of letters and numbers, having understood which you can choose the necessary equipment, taking into account the thickness, diameter of the cavities, length, width, type of reinforcement, the number of supports.

The first two letters indicate the type of slab (PC - hollow, PR - ribbed, PB - monolithic) and the fact that it can be placed on 2 supports. The third letter "T" - means the ability to lay the overlap on the 3rd side (PCT). Additional "K" is a sign that the slab is placed on 4 load-bearing walls (PKK). If the letters "L" and "C" are indicated in the marking, then they indicate the type of concrete, respectively: lightweight and silicate. The numbers following the letters show the size in decimetres, the values are usually rounded, and the real length is 20 mm and the width is 10 mm less. Then the calculated floor load is indicated in hundreds of kg per m2 and the type of reinforcement.

For example, product marking PK63.12-3.AtVta is a hollow-core slab 6280 mm long, 1190 mm wide, withstanding 300 kgf / m2, with a reinforced bottom surface.

Calculation of floor slabs

Since the structure provides the strength of the structure and presses on the load-bearing walls with its weight, it is important to correctly distribute the load. This will ensure the reliability, durability of the building, and, of course, the safety of future residents. An incorrect calculation of the strength of the support and the floor panel can lead to gradual cracking of the walls and deformation of the slab itself.

In an ordinary residential building, the load on 1 m 2 of the floor is approximately as follows: people - about 200 kg, partitions - 150 kg, screed and covering - about 150 kg. This is already 500 kg, and you also need to take into account furniture, equipment, household appliances and other things that will be in the room. Do not forget about temporary loads: festive table, two dozen guests, snow, rain, hail also have their own weight, so it is better to do the calculation with a margin (if the foundation and load-bearing walls allow), than to reconcile everything up to kg, and then have to limit the load. Depending on the purpose of the floors (basement, basement, interfloor, attic) structures are designed in different ways.

Features of self-installation

Before starting work, you need to familiarize yourself with the typical technological map for laying floor slabs. It describes in detail the stages of work, equipment and safety measures, drawings are attached.

For the laying of concrete goods, lifting equipment is required; you will need a crane operator and two certified slingers. Do-it-yourself installation of slabs without qualified assistants is contrary to safety regulations.

In the process of unloading or working, it is not recommended to drag the blocks by dragging or let them fall free. Perfectly
it is required to build supports (from timber) specially for storage of slabs. You can plan to lay the panels right away, lifting them directly from the truck: this will save a lot, since the crane operator has to pay for each lift, and the materials will be more intact.

The panels must be laid on cement mortar from M100 so that they rest on the load-bearing walls by at least 100 mm. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the position of the floor slab to be installed is even, and that each of them is ideally adjusted. It is recommended to check the level of the panels at each laying. If necessary, they are lifted with a crane and repositioned again. After the completion of the masonry, the slabs are cleaned and filled in the seams. cement mortar.

The support node of the floor slab of a brick residential building is usually 100-120 mm. Load-bearing masonry must not protrude beyond the width of the foundation, otherwise it may not support the weight.

Installation of plates on gas silicate blocks requires larger area pressure on the supports (up to 250 mm), since they are less durable than fired brick. In this case, it is advisable to strengthen the walls with a reinforced belt.

Quality control of installation of floor panels

Installation of precast-monolithic floors

The advantages of this type of construction are low cost, relative safety of work, no need to rent lifting equipment and hire highly qualified workers. Small lightweight slabs can be used different types: cellular, ribbed, beam. But there is also a minus: the time required for the setting of concrete.

Beam-type slabs are laid in the following steps:

drawing up a work plan, calculation of materials, fittings and other things;
assembly of formwork;
installation of wooden or iron props;
installation of waterproofing on roofing or polyethylene formwork;
reinforcement;
laying slabs;
re-reinforcement (if necessary, depending on the type of beam);
grouting using cement grade from M300;
removal of the formwork after 28 days.

Installation of aerated concrete slabs is carried out according to the same principle. It is important to arrange a canopy or cover the structure with a film so that weather conditions do not affect the quality of the work.

Price

When buying slabs, pay attention that they are even, with a good surface, without a radioactive background of the reinforcement. One product costs the buyer from 3 800 rubles. The price of laying the slabs includes the rental of equipment, the hiring of a crew, and the cost of materials and electricity. Do-it-yourself prefabricated monolithic flooring costs only 1,000 rubles / m 2, since it does not require additional costs.

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The question of how to carry out the installation of floor slabs becomes relevant during the construction of any premises. At first glance, it may seem that installation is quite simple, but there are some nuances that need to be taken into account when building and erecting a building.

Floor slabs are reinforced concrete products intended for the arrangement of interfloor floors.

To understand how to lay slabs, you need to know the technology and rules for laying floor slabs. You can divide reinforced concrete structures as follows:

hollow-core ceilings;
tent (ribbed);
long ribbed.

Some people prefer to use monolithic reinforced concrete slabs but this option is more expensive. The most common types that are used for floors are reinforced concrete hollow cores. They have good thermal conductivity and sound insulation.

Floor slab installation technology

For installation, you must have:

round-hollow reinforced concrete slabs;
truck crane;
cement mortar (cement, water, sand);
Master OK;
grinders or autogen;
sledgehammers;
level;
scrap;
steel brush;
tow;
gypsum solution;
lime-gypsum solution;
thermal insulation material;
welding machine.

This is not to say that the installation of floor slabs - easy process; on the contrary, it is considered quite time consuming and risky.

Any foundation is not even and smooth, therefore, before installing reinforced concrete floor slabs, it will be correct and advisable to make the foundation even, for example, lay out a brick row on a concrete base. You can check how flat the surface is using a level, level. It is possible to put floor slabs only on the most even surface, the further service life of the entire building depends on this.

It is necessary to take care of the strength of the foundation, because due to the heaving of the soil, its deformation can occur, and regardless of how responsibly the builders approach the installation and how the floor slabs will be laid, the building will slope over time.

You can fix the foundation with the usual reinforced mesh, on which is subsequently applied concrete mortar and floor slabs are installed. The cement must be at least grade 100. The height of the cement layer must be at least 20 cm.

Before installing reinforced concrete floor slabs, you need to prepare them.

If there are flaws, protrusions or chips on the surface, they must be eliminated.

To understand how to lay slabs, before installing and installing reinforced concrete floor structures, you need to calculate the width in such a way that they occupy the entire perimeter and no uncovered parts remain. The calculation scheme is quite simple.

Before the installation process, the substrate is laid out from concrete mix... It is possible to lay floor slabs only with the help of a truck crane, since their weight is quite large. Having hooked reinforced concrete slabs to the hinges, they are lifted and put in the right place. Moreover, it will not work alone to carry out the installation, for this process a team of 3-5 people is needed. During installation, you need to make sure that each plate lies flat, all elements should adhere to each other as much as possible. Due to the fact that the cement footboard does not freeze immediately, the plates will remain mobile for some time, and you can correct installation inaccuracies by straightening them with a crowbar.

Laying the floor slabs is only necessary on the main walls of the future room. The installation of internal partitions and walls is carried out after the installation of the floor slabs, and they should rest on the wall by 12 cm. Fasten the adjacent slabs with each other with mounting loops. For laying, it is better to use a cement-sand mortar, it must be liquid, the sand is carefully sifted, otherwise, even if small debris gets in, it can lead to deformation of the floor and ceiling.

After the installation of the floor slabs has been carried out, seams remain between them, which must be repaired. All seams must be cleaned with a steel brush. The gaps between the elements of the reinforced concrete structure are filled with tow, previously soaked in gypsum solution... The tow layer must be compacted. When the gypsum mixture dries, its volume increases, thus, the tow will be pressed against the walls as much as possible. After that, the cracks are covered with lime-gypsum mortar.

The present ends also need to be sealed so that the slabs do not freeze during the cold season.

To do this, you can apply mineral wool, concrete mortar or backfill brick.

Force majeure situations can arise in any construction process, for example, slabs can burst if the unloading rules are violated or they were stored incorrectly.

But throw it away so dear construction material impractical. They can be installed on 3 main walls. Or they can carry out the installation of the attic space, in this place the load is the lowest.

Back to the table of contents

Laying floor slabs: important points

For the accuracy of the design, you need to draw a diagram with all dimensions, so you can avoid gaps and lack of slabs. If, nevertheless, there are large gaps, they can be filled with cinder block, and small gaps and cracks can be filled with concrete.

When installing hollow core slabs, make sure that they are laid with the smooth side down. They should be located as close to each other as possible - even the smallest gaps should be avoided. They need to be laid by adjusting to each other along the bottom edge.

When installing floor slabs on a foundation, it is very important to know that they should only be installed on 2 walls, with short, not long sides. This method of installation is needed in order to prevent possible deformation and displacement if the foundation "sags".

The thing is that in such cases, the entire weight of the structure moves to the third, long side, and cracks or gaps may appear on the short sides, but this cannot be allowed. Also, one should not forget that the short sides of reinforced concrete blanks should not be completely installed on the walls - by 11-15 cm. This will help reduce heat loss in the further operation of any room.

You should immediately think about where the communications will go in order to leave gaps for them between the floor slabs.

After installing reinforced concrete structures, it is imperative to tie them with reinforcing rods for the strength and strength of the future room. For this, rods with a diameter of 9-12 mm are suitable, you can use class A1 wire rod (when loads arise, it will stretch, not break). The rods are welded with one end to the loop, and the other to the loop of the adjacent floor blank. It is impossible to connect several reinforced concrete slabs at once - only two slabs are connected to each other. WITH outside slabs are fixed with anchors.

Be sure to pay attention to the rules of transportation, unloading and storage of reinforced concrete structures and materials so that they do not undergo deformation. Between iron concrete slabs be sure to put wooden beams at the same distance and in the same places, otherwise they may burst under load.

In some cases, when reinforced concrete slabs long time are in the cold, they can freeze, then due to the moisture that will be in reinforced concrete structures, fungus and mold can form. To avoid this, you need to make small holes in each workpiece at a distance of 25 cm from each other and blow into them polyurethane foam... Thus, reinforced concrete structures will not absorb moisture.

Currently, in our country, the most popular are three methods of constructing floors in a house. This is the installation of floor slabs, the device is monolithic iron concrete floor and overlapping on wooden (less often metal) beams. We will definitely talk about all these methods and not only. And the first technology that we will consider is the installation of finished floor slabs.

To begin with, a little about the floor slabs themselves. All slabs can be divided into flat and ribbed depending on their shape. Flat, in turn, are divided into solid and void. We are now interested in the void, because it is this type of slabs that is mainly used in low-rise construction.

Hollow core slabs, in turn, are also classified according to various parameters, such as the shape and size of the voids, the thickness of the slabs, the technology of slab production, and the method of reinforcement.

I will not delve into the topic of classification. It is better to look for this information on the websites of enterprises producing concrete products (reinforced concrete products). We'd better talk directly about the installation.

The very first point that you need to pay attention to even at the stage of designing your future home is the opportunity to purchase in your area exactly the slabs of the sizes that are included in the project. Each manufacturer has its own specific nomenclature of manufactured products and it is always limited. This is really important and it surprises me that very often developers forget about this recommendation and then they have to either chop one or several slabs, or do it on the floor monolithic area... We will talk about this below.

Storage of floor slabs at the construction site.

Of course, it's great if you have the opportunity to lay the floor slabs immediately upon delivery, directly from the car that brought them. But more often than not, this does not happen. Or the driver insists that you unload the slabs as quickly as possible, because he is in a hurry for the next order, or the plates are not placed on the machine in the order in which you need them, or you just bought them in advance and are not going to put them in yet. In all these cases, the slabs will need to be stored at your site.

Try to choose a flat surface for this. Never place slabs directly on the ground. Be sure to put something under the edges of the slab, for example, trimming a wooden beam. There should be only two pads, at a distance of about 25-40 cm from the edges. Do not put pads under the middle of the slab.

Plates can be stacked up to 2.5 meters high. Make the spacers under the first slab higher so that if they are pressed into the ground when laying subsequent slabs, the first one does not touch the ground in any case, otherwise it can easily break. All subsequent linings are enough to make even from an inch (2.5 cm). They must be stacked strictly one above the other.

Preparation for the installation of floor slabs.

Preparation begins at the moment when the masons are driving out the last rows of masonry. The slabs will lay flat and without drops, if the upper rows load-bearing walls will be flat and will be in the same horizontal plane.

To achieve this, there must be horizontal level marks in all corners of the overlapping room. They put them in the process of erecting walls with the help of a level, or laser level, or hydro level. And when the last row of masonry is made, the distance from the marks to the top of the walls is controlled with a tape measure. It should be the same in all corners. From my experience, I can tell you for sure that some bricklayers neglect this, especially when they make backing masonry simultaneously with the front one, performed "under the bar".

The top row of load-bearing walls should be bonded. That is, if you look from the inside of the covered room, then only pokes should be visible on the load-bearing walls (on which the floor slabs rest) in the uppermost row of masonry.

If the slabs are placed on a load-bearing partition 1.5 bricks thick (i.e. the slabs rest on it on both sides), then the top row of such a partition is laid out in one of two ways:

Before laying floor slabs on walls from various blocks (foam concrete, gas silicate, slag, etc.), it is necessary to make a reinforced concrete belt (usually about 15-20 cm thick). Such a belt is made either by pouring concrete into the formwork, or using special U-shaped blocks around the entire perimeter of the house box, i.e. not only on load-bearing walls, but also on non-load-bearing ones.

When installing hollow core slabs, the holes in them must be sealed. It is much more convenient to do this in advance, while the slabs are still on the ground. In general, SNiP prescribes to close up voids without fail on the side of the slab that rests on outer wall(to reduce the likelihood of freezing the slab), and from the side that rests on the internal partition, only starting from the third floor from the top of the house and below (to increase strength). That is, if, for example, the house has a basement overlap, an overlap between the 1st and 2nd floors and an attic overlap above the 2nd floor, then it is imperative to seal the voids from the side of the load-bearing partitions only in the basement.

I will say that we always close the holes when laying the slabs. Moreover, in recent times more and more round hollow core slabs, come from factories with already sealed holes. It's comfortable. If the holes are not sealed, we insert a one-and-a-half brick into them (you can even half) and throw the remaining slots with mortar.

Also, before installing the slabs, it is necessary to prepare the site for the crane in advance. It is good if in the place where the crane will stand, the soil, as they say, is native, caked. Worse when the soil is loose. If you have a basement, do not put the crane too close to the house, in order to avoid what is shown in the picture below:

In such cases, it is better to order a crane with a longer boom. Also, sometimes in the place where the crane will stand, you first have to put several road slabs (usually there are used ones somewhere). Often this has to be done in the fall in rainy and slushy weather, when the site is so "broken" that the crane just stuck on it.

Laying floor slabs.

For the installation of floor slabs, it is enough three people... One clings the slabs, two lay them. If you wish, you can handle it together, although not always. It happens that when, for example, the second floor overlaps, the installers and the crane operator do not see each other. Then at the top, in addition to 2 people directly laying the slab, there must be another person who will give commands to the crane operator.

Laying begins from the wall on a layer of mortar no more than 2 cm. The mortar must be thick enough so that the plate does not completely squeeze it out of the seam. After the crane operator places the slab on the walls, he first leaves the slings taut. At the same time, with the help of scrap, the plate, if necessary, is not difficult to move a little. If the upper surfaces of the load-bearing walls were made even, then the slabs will also lay flat, without drops, as they say "from the first approach."

Regarding the size of the support of the slabs on the walls, I will give an extract from the document "A guide to the design of residential buildings. Issue 3 (to SNiP 2.08.01-85) 6. OVERLAPPING ":

Paragraph 6.16.: The depth of support of precast plates on the walls, depending on the nature of their support, is recommended to be taken at least, mm: when supporting along the contour, as well as on two long and one short sides - 40; when leaning on two sides and a span of plates of 4.2 m or less, as well as on two short and one long sides - 50; with support on both sides and a span of plates of more than 4.2 m - 70.

When assigning the depth of support for floor slabs, one should also take into account the requirements of SNiP 2.03.01-84 for anchoring reinforcement on supports.

In our practice, we try to make a support of at least 12 cm, since now there is an opportunity to purchase exactly those plates that are needed. The step of their lengths is 10 cm.

I often hear debates about whether it is possible to support hollow-core floor slabs on three sides (two short and one long) and how long it is possible to start the slab with the long side on the wall. From what is written above, it follows that it is possible to support the plates in this way. But it is not so. If you read the specified SNiP, then it says that slabs that rely on three sides have a different reinforcement scheme than those that rely on only two sides.

The overwhelming majority of hollow-core slabs, which are now produced by precast concrete factories, are designed specifically to be supported on two short sides, so it is not recommended to put them on the wall with their long side. Under a certain load, this can lead to cracking of the board. The reinforcement scheme and, therefore, the possibility of supporting the slab on the third side must be checked with the manufacturer.

Also, an error associated with incorrect loading of the slab is that it overlaps two spans at once (see the figure below):

Under certain unfavorable conditions the slab can crack, and the location of the crack is absolutely unpredictable. If you still use such a scheme, make a cut with a grinder (to the depth of the disc) on the upper surface of the plate strictly above the middle partition. Thus, in which case the crack will pass exactly along this section, which, in principle, is no longer scary.

Of course, it's good if we manage to overlap exclusively with whole slabs. But the circumstances are different and yet sometimes some kind of slab (or even more than one) has to be cut along or across. To do this, you need a grinder with diamond disc on concrete, a sledgehammer, a crowbar and not the sickest man at a construction site.

To facilitate the work, it is better to put the stove on a lining. Moreover, this lining is placed exactly under the cut line. At some point, the slab will simply break along this line from its own weight.

First of all, we make a cut on the upper surface of the slab with a grinder along the cut line. Then, striking with a sledgehammer from above, we cut through a strip along the top of the slab. It is quite easy to punch concrete in the area of voids. Then we break through with a crowbar lower part slabs (also for voids). When cutting the slab along (we always cut along the hole in the slab), it breaks rather quickly. When chopping across, if the slab did not break after the destruction of the lower part with a crowbar, a sledgehammer is used to strike from the side on the vertical partitions of the slab until victorious.

In the process of cutting, we cut the reinforcement that comes across. It can be done with a grinder, but it is safer by welding or with a gas cutter, especially when the fittings in the plate are pre-stressed. The disc from the grinder can bite. To prevent this from happening, do not cut the reinforcement to the end, leave a couple of millimeters and then tear it apart with a blow of the same sledgehammer.

Several times in our practice we had to cut slabs lengthwise. But we have never used, let's say, "stumps" less than 60 cm wide (less than 3 holes remain), and I do not advise you. In general, when deciding to cut a slab, all responsibility for possible consequences You completely take it upon yourself, because not a single manufacturer will officially tell you that it is possible to chop the stove.

Let's now see what can be done if, after all, the whole number of tiles is not enough for you to completely cover the room:

Method 1- we put the first or the last (maybe both) plates, without bringing the long side to the wall. We lay the remaining gap with bricks or blocks, hanging them no more than half from the wall (see fig.):

Method 2- we make the so-called "monolithic area". From below, under the slabs, formwork made of plywood is placed, reinforcement cage(see figure below) and the area between the slabs is poured with concrete.

Anchoring floor slabs.

After all the slabs are laid, they are anchored. In general, if the construction of a house is carried out according to a project, then an anchoring scheme must be present in it. When there is no projection, we usually use the scheme shown in the figure:

The anchor is made with the end bending into a loop, which clings to the mounting loop of the plate. Before welding the anchors to each other and to the mounting loops, they must be pulled as far as possible.

After completing the anchoring, we immediately seal up with mortar all the mounting lugs in the slabs and rusty (seams between the slabs). Try not to procrastinate with this, so that it does not fall into the rusty construction garbage, and no water was poured into the eyes during rain and snow. If you suspect that water has nevertheless got into the slabs (for example, you bought slabs with already filled voids, and rainwater could have gotten even during storage at the factory), it is better to release it. To do this, after installation, simply drill one small hole in the plates from below with a puncher, into those voids where the mounting lugs are located.

It is especially dangerous to find water in voids in winter time when the house is not yet heated (or is not completed at all) and the plates freeze below zero. Water saturates the bottom layer of concrete, and with repeated freeze-thaw cycles, the slab simply begins to collapse.

Another method of securing the slabs is the construction of the so-called concrete ring anchor. This is a kind of the same monolithic reinforced belt, only it is made not under the slabs, but in the same plane with them, also along the entire perimeter of the house. More often this method is used on foam concrete and other blocks.

I'll make a reservation right away that we have never used it because of its much higher labor intensity. I think the ring anchor is justified in more earthquake-prone regions than our Nizhny Novgorod region.

At the end of the article, I suggest looking at small video, which deals with the choice of floor slabs:

In the process of building walls made of aerated concrete or foam concrete, there comes a time when you need to take care of device of interfloor overlap, which can be from a concrete slab or from wooden beams.

Unlike houses built of bricks, when installing interfloor ceilings on walls made of gas or foam concrete blocks, it is necessary to additionally provide for distribution and reinforcing belts.

In this article, we will consider the installation of wooden and reinforced concrete floors when building a house from wall blocks.

Installation of interfloor floors from a monolithic slab

Many private developers, when building a house from aerated concrete or other similar blocks, use reinforced concrete slabs as interfloor floors.

It is very reliable and solid foundations, but at the same time they have a large weight, which must be taken into account when erecting walls from building blocks.

In order for the weight of the slab to be distributed evenly and not to violate the integrity of the walls, when laying slabs, an additional structure must be made, in the form of a distribution concrete or brick belt.

Installation options for a monolithic reinforced concrete slab are shown in the figure.
In the first option, the slab rests on a concrete strip measuring 150x250 mm, located along the entire perimeter of the wall. The tape is reinforced with rods with a diameter of 10 mm and poured with concrete of the M200 brand.

It is also necessary to leave a temperature gap of 1-2 cm between the wall and the end of the reinforced concrete slab.

To remove cold bridges, the plate and the reinforcing belt are additionally insulated using extruded expanded polystyrene plates, 50 mm thick.

Second option is a masonry of red fired bricks, laid in 3 rows. This is the most popular version of the distribution belt device. In this case, there is no need to build a formwork and make a reinforcing cage from rods.

But, before laying bricks, they reinforce the wall blocks with reinforcement. To do this, grooves are grooved, reinforcing bars are placed in them and filled with cement mortar.

Brickwork is also reinforced with a masonry mesh between the rows.

A monolithic reinforced concrete slab should go into the depth of the wall by 13-14 cm. This is quite enough for the stability and rigidity of the structure.

Wooden interfloor floors

Wooden construction is the most preferred option when building houses from lightweight wall blocks. Wooden interfloor floors are much lighter than concrete ones, which means they exert less pressure on the wall, therefore, the structure will be simpler.

In addition, the price of wooden logs, taking into account delivery and work, is much less than the cost of reinforced concrete slabs. There is no need to hire an expensive crane and everything can be done without the use of technology.

In one of the articles (link), we have already talked about the overlapping device by wooden beams... In it, we gave the calculation of floor beams and the device of the floor according to wooden logs... Perhaps this information will be useful to you. But back to our topic.

As we already wrote, the installation wooden floors more simple. It is enough to make a belt of reinforcement, as is the case with concrete slabs, on which beams can be laid.

Wooden logs, before installation, must be covered with antifungal compounds, and the ends that will lie on the wall should be wrapped in roofing material or other similar material.

You also need to wash down the end part of the beam at an angle of 60 0 and lay the insulation

Between the end and the wall, a gap of 2 cm must be left for possible thermal expansion.

Wooden logs should be laid into the wall to a depth of 15 cm.

In conclusion, we offer you a video that will be useful in the further installation of a wooden floor.

They are usually made of prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs. There are several types of reinforced concrete floor slabs: aerated concrete, hollow-core heavy concrete and precast-monolithic floors... They are selected based on the span width and bearing capacity.

The most widely used hollow-core floor slabs PK and PNO, with bearing capacity 800 kgf / m2.
Distinctive features such overlappings are high strength, fire resistance, manufacturability and full factory readiness for installation.
Ceilings made of hollow-core reinforced concrete slabs are used with a spacing of load-bearing walls up to 9 meters. These ceilings are durable, fire-resistant, provide the necessary spatial rigidity and stability of the residential building.
The slabs are laid close to each other and connected to each other by monolithing the seams between them with cement mortar. To create a rigid single horizontal slab, the reinforced concrete slabs are connected to each other and to the outer walls using steel anchors fixed to the mounting hinges. The gaps between the plates when resting on interior walls filled with bricks of the same grade as in the main masonry.

When using a concrete floor, a prerequisite is the device of an annular reinforced belt.

In modern literature, you can find several ways to construct an annular reinforced belt (armpole):

So in one case when the wall is made of lightweight aerated concrete and the support of the slab does not reach 250 mm. (normal support - 120 mm), apply a distribution belt through which the floor slabs rest on the wall (Fig. 1). Such a belt is performed for the entire length of the floor bearing on the wall and can be made of monolithic reinforced concrete or from three rows solid brick reinforced masonry mesh... The width of the belt is 250 mm and the thickness is at least 120 mm. The floor slabs must be supported by the distribution belt at least 120 mm. Together with floor slabs, it creates a rigid structure to increase resistance to wind loads, manifestations of temperature and shrinkage deformations, as well as resistance to emergency impacts.

Rice. 1. Node for supporting the floor slab on the wall
from aerated concrete gas silicate and foam concrete blocks.
1 - masonry; 2 - thermal insulation layer; 3 - leveling layer cement-sand mortar; 4 - floor; 5 - floor slab; 6 - monolithic reinforced concrete belt; 7 - additional masonry blocks; 8 - prefabricated reinforced concrete lintel of the window opening; 9 - fiberglass corner; 10 - slope; 11-elastic pad; 12 - window block

In the second case: when the compressive load passes the established norms or the width of the support of the slab on aerated concrete blocks more than 120 mm, the distribution belt can be omitted. In this case, its role in giving the house a rigid structure is played by an armature belt in the form of a ring anchor along the outer perimeter of all laid floor slabs. Photo.№2 -5