How to properly fasten the lining - Master class. How to nail lining to the wall - a complete guide How to install euro lining on the walls

Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to build baths from various materials. For walls, you can use foam blocks, frame insulated panels, sandwich panels, profiled or glued beams. The interior upholstery is made of glued and plastic lining(“original” solution), waterproof OSB and fiberboard, etc. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, each finds its consumer depending on preferences and “wallet thickness”.

We will not consider these modern options, let's talk about the most classic, reliable and time-tested option for building a bath - from an ordinary sawn timber, for interior upholstery baths we use natural lining. It does not matter much which lining is an ordinary traditional or europrofile. These are our initial data, for other options the upholstery technology will have minor differences.

wood species	Dimensions (thickness x width x length)	Extra grade, price per 1 sq.m	Grade A, price per 1 sq.m	Extra grade, price per linear meter	Grade A, price per linear meter
Aspen	16х96(90)х 1-3 m	550-680 rub.	450-580 rub.	53-65 rub.	48-56 rub.
Linden	16х96(90)х 1-3 m	650-870 rub.	550-770 rub.	62-84 rub.	53-74 rub.
Cedar	16х96(90)х 1-3 m	1400-1800 rub.	1300-1700 rub	134-173 rubles.	125-163 rub.
Larch (lining Calm)	14x90 (115 or 140 wide) x 2 (4, 5 or 6 meters long)	950-1160 rub.	770-940 rub.	-	-

Stages of work

Any job requires meticulous pre-training the better everything is thought out and prepared, the faster the upholstery will be done and the cheaper it will cost.

Where to start work:

preparation of tools;
room measurement and billing required amount material;
preparation of bearing surfaces;
frame installation;
clapboard upholstery;
final finishing work.

We note right away that there are no less important and more important operations, an inattentive or unprofessional attitude to any of them can cause rather unpleasant situations, in some cases a marriage is very difficult to fix, and this is fraught with large additional financial losses. In addition to money, time and nerves are lost.

Instrument preparation

To perform upholstery work, you will need the following tools and fixtures.

Tape measure and pencil for measurements.
Level. Now there is a large selection of fairly accurate levels, you can additionally purchase a laser device. But there is one problem - these tools are quite expensive, you need to use them skillfully. But this does not guarantee against rather large errors during markup. We recommend using old and very precise methods- check the vertical with an ordinary plumb line, and beat the horizontal with a hydraulic level. Despite their simplicity and low cost, these devices have the most high precision measurements.
Electrical hand saw or a hacksaw. We advise you to use an electric saw - at a cost it satisfies most consumers, makes it much easier and faster to work, improves the quality and accuracy of the cut.
Hammer, nail puller, etc. necessary little things for a carpenter.

We took into account that upholstery will not be done by professionals, they have expensive tools and fixtures. For an ordinary summer resident, it is economically unprofitable to purchase such expensive things to perform one-time work of a small volume.

Electric hand saw prices

saw hand electric circular

Video - About the lining in the bath and the principles of installation

Measurement of premises and calculation of materials

Clapboard needs to be upholstered on the ceiling and walls, therefore, their area must be measured. There is nothing complicated, only care is needed. Based on the data obtained, a lining is purchased.

First, when performing any work, it will not be possible to completely avoid unproductive waste. And if there is not enough practical experience in the production of works, then the amount of waste can increase to 15% or more.
Secondly, not all purchased lining will be of high quality, unfortunately.

Another point - during the purchase of lining, select its length and width in such a way as to minimize the number of cuts, this will help reduce waste. To do this, you need to compare its length with the dimensions of the walls and ceiling. If you get a multiple - great, if not - then the segments should be long, which will allow them to be used during upholstery.

Profile	Description	Scheme
Standard	It looks like a classic quarter-board lining. It has a thorn-groove connection, and the thorn is shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one by rounded edges and the presence of reverse side channels to prevent the accumulation of condensate.
	Produced in accordance with DIN 68126. Has an elongated spike. After mounting the lining, the surface of the wall is ribbed.
	Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Calm lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, embossed texture of the wall after panel assembly.
	Used for finishing external walls and premises. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a thorn-groove connection, the front side is usually rounded, and the wrong side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Reiki for the frame must be at least one centimeter thick, they also need to be bought with a margin, especially since they cost a penny.

Nails can be bought copper or galvanized, they are very praised by manufacturers. But we dare to assure you that ordinary nails will serve for many years, and they cost several times cheaper. If you expect to fasten the lining with special clamps, then you will have to buy them.

A few words need to be said about the impregnation of lining and rails with various antiseptics. This operation is desirable, but not required. Coniferous wood and without impregnation will forgive for decades, and over time it is better to completely change the lining. Impregnation not only inhibits the growth of microorganisms and bacteria, but gradually poisons us as well.

Aged Wood Palette - Textured Clapboard

Impregnation for wood - the result of pronounced moisture resistance

Cleimer prices

Preparation of load-bearing surfaces

Surface preparation includes leveling and, if desired, additional insulation. It is not necessary to align each individual beam, align only those to which the wooden lath will be fixed.

Reiki, by the way, can arrive horizontally or vertically. Accordingly, the lining in such cases will be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Video - Installation of lining

It is better to check the evenness of the walls with a rope stretched in the corners of the bath, or an even long wooden slat. It is advisable to use a rope, it is more accurate and faster. Pull the rope as close to the floor and ceiling as possible, check with a straight rail the distance from the wall surfaces to the rope. If large bulges are found, they will have to be cut down, the depressions will level out already during the fastening of the crate. And then not all, but only those where it will be necessary to fasten the rails.

Frame installation

Highly important point- the end result largely depends on the thoroughness of all operations. What should you pay attention to? Distance between rails. Specific values depend on the thickness of the lining, but we recommend installing the slats at a distance of ≈ 40 centimeters. Strength and reliability will increase significantly, and the amount of work and the amount of materials will increase slightly. How to make a crate? Consider the option vertical installation rails. It goes without saying that electrical cables already laid.

Nail the two extreme slats in the corners, you need to nail in level.
Stretch a rope between them.
Mark the distance between the remaining slats and nail them along the rope. If necessary, under the rails you need to enclose wooden spacers for precise alignment.

In the same sequence, slats are nailed on all other surfaces.

Installation of lining

Here it is also very important to mark the first row, check the correct position several times. It does not take much time, but it allows you to insure against troubles. If you have not made control marks on the frame rails, then you should check the positions of the rows with a level.

If you have little practical experience, make marks on the rails for the location of the lining every three to four rows. Marks can be made on each rail with a pencil or beat off all at once with a special rope with blue, they are sold in every hardware store. Such marking will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the rows and, if small deviations occur, correct them in a timely manner.

The nails are nailed to the slats of the frame, respectively, the distance between them is equal to the distance between the slats.

Problems can arise if the ceiling and floor are not parallel to each other, the last row of lining must be cut at an angle. What to do? Think while laying out the wireframe. If the deviations in height are less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to cut only the bottom row of the lining, the place will be closed with a plinth, the “oblique” lining at the bottom is less noticeable - various sunbeds and other “bathing equipment” in many places completely hide the plinth. If the height difference is large, divide it into two parts, you will need to cut both the lower and upper rows. What exactly to cut off (thorn or groove) does not matter.

Prices for lining

Video - How to nail a lining. Installation subtleties

The lining is fixed with studs or kleimers, the studs must be driven into the spike under a flush slope, the length of the studs is ≈1.5 cm. We do not recommend using self-tapping screws - it is long and expensive, and there is zero additional effect. The lining is never affected by pulling forces. The kleimer is fixed in the grooves, nailed to the rails. The gaps at the bottom and top are closed with skirting boards.

It is not necessary to seal the lining with a mallet, especially eurolining. She has spikes much longer, which prevents them from slipping out of the grooves during expansion / shrinkage.

Very important - leave gaps for shrinkage. If the bath has not yet fully matured after laying the log house, then you will have to install a floating crate. It is easy to make, there are special elements for floating fixation of the frame.

Never rush, it is better to first check the position of the lining several times and only then securely fix it. Only with time, when experience already appears, the pace of work can be increased.

Video - Floating crate for lining installation

On the Internet you can find advice from "experts" to insulate baths mineral wool or foil - we consider this a waste of money and time. This option should be used only if the bath is built of silicate bricks.

If there are many tasks, conditions should be discussed. Foam blocks and wood keep heat normally. And for wooden baths foil does more harm than good - violated natural ventilation with all the ensuing consequences. Unscrupulous shabashniki are engaged in such "warming" in order to rip more money from the customer

Video - Internal lining of the bath clapboard

Finishing work

These include the installation of skirting boards on the floor and fillets on the ceiling. Do not forget to always leave a gap of 1÷2 cm between the last row of lining and the ceiling to compensate for expansion / shrinkage. The gap is closed with a fillet ( ceiling plinth), the fillet is fixed to the ceiling - this is very important. Otherwise, the gaps left will not “work”, there are high risks of warping.

The lining can be coated with special varnishes, stains that are resistant to difficult operating conditions, or the surfaces can be left untreated. It is undesirable to cover with varnishes, it must be remembered that absolutely all polymer resins, and it is from them that most stable varnishes are made, emit harmful chemical compounds. Harmfulness coatings is determined in each country individually, limiting values of evaporation are regulated. What in some countries is strictly prohibited for use, in others is called "environmentally friendly" products. Decide for yourself if you need beautiful bath, or you wish to have a safe steam room. What can be advised - carefully inspect all surfaces and, if necessary, sand problem areas on the wagon. To varnish or not is an amateur's business.

Prices for wooden skirting boards

wooden plinth

Conclusion

If you follow all the recommendations: do not rush, do not be lazy to double-check the markings and work done several times, then upholstery of the bath with clapboard will not seem very difficult. Of course, on condition - there is a desire and hands grow from where it is necessary. Work is best done with an assistant - faster, easier, and safer. And the last thing - follow the elementary safety rules, no beautiful, clapboard upholstered bathhouse compensates for the loss of health.

How to fix eurolining to reveal all the beauty of these planks?

The lining of the decade is in demand. This material, preserving the natural pattern, ennobles the room at the same time, retains heat and serves as a high-quality sound insulator. In rooms lined with environmentally friendly materials, the healthy aroma of the forest is preserved for years, and the humidity regime is always within the optimal limits. Wooden lining absorbs moisture in excessively damp rooms and releases it into the air if it is too dry around. The panels are equipped with special locks, so the installation and fastening of the panels is within the power of even a novice master.

Eurolining is a popular material for interior decoration due to its environmental friendliness and ease of installation.

However, those who make the cladding on their own for the first time often wonder how to properly mount it so as not to spoil the charming appearance lining.

There are several ways, and all of them require not experience and special skills, but patience and accuracy.

Fastening with nails

Some experts answer the question of how to fix this lining: with nails or screws. How to do it?

The simplest and at the same time the most barbaric way is to fasten the lining with nails from the “face” of the product. It is possible that sometimes the plan of an architect or designer allows this method, but then the boards are fixed with special finishing nails. They differ from ordinary ones in a tiny oval hat and a small diameter. This is necessary to make the nail invisible against the background of the lined wall. Sometimes (very rarely) finishing nails may have a decorative cap. Regardless of whether the lining is fastened from the outside with ordinary or decorative nails, special care must be taken: the boards can split.

More experienced craftsmen fasten the lining, driving the finishing nails into the groove of the plank. It's hard to do this job without experience.

On 10 square meters approximately 600 nails are required.

The nail must first be carefully inserted into the groove, then driven into the mounting rail, then the caps must be drowned with a puncher so that they do not interfere with further installation.

To fix the lining in this way, you need skill, experience, skill and time. And still there is a risk of damage to the plates.

Back to index

Fastening with self-tapping screws

The usual (not eurolining) was often fastened with screws, guided by the following algorithm.

A hole for a screw was drilled in each panel.
They countersinked a secret hole intended for a hat.
The screw was driven into the frame rail to failure with the help of a screwdriver.

The first difficulty was to fit the screw head flush with the lining. The second is at the risk of splitting the plank. The screw was supposed to go into the place intended for him.. Otherwise, it interfered with joining next element. Today, when eurolining has appeared (it has more grooves and spikes than the old configuration), this method of fastening has been somewhat simplified.

Neat holes are drilled in each wooden panel, the depth of which is equal to half the length of the self-tapping screw selected for this purpose. Of course, you can try to screw in a self-tapping screw without a previously prepared hole. Experience shows that the number of damaged (cracked) planks increases dramatically.
Using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood.
Holes are plugged with pins and ground flush.

This method of fastening the lining also leaves the risk of damage to the panels and takes a lot of time. You need to have a lot of experience in order to correctly and accurately drive nails, screws, self-tapping screws into the right place of the lining or eurolining. It also requires some physical strength.

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Fastening eurolining with a stapler and clamps

Fastening the lining with a clamp is the most reliable.

How else can you mount eurolining? Those who fastened eurolining to the wall on their own for the first time often claim that the most convenient way- use of staples and construction stapler. It is enough to insert the staple into the groove at an angle of 45 ° using a stapler. If the bracket lies correctly, then the planks are connected as usual.

Today, the most practical and reasonable is the method of fastening eurolining with the help of clamps (clamps).

They do it like this:

The lining board is installed and leveled.
On the lower part the groove is put on a kleimer.
With the help of nails or staples, the kleimer is attached to the wall or batten.
The next board is inserted with a spike into the groove, the operation is repeated. Every 5-8 rows it is recommended to check the compliance of the lining with the chosen direction (vertical, diagonal, horizontal).

Why is it better to fasten eurolining with clasps? Because the advantages of kleimers are obvious:

The possibility of cracking the board is excluded.
The lining process is accelerated.

During the installation process, a perfectly even wall sheathing is obtained.

How to properly nail the lining? The quality of the finish of the room depends on the solution of this issue. A wide variety of clapboard cladding technologies allows you to choose the appropriate method for finishing any surface with it. The article will tell you how to nail lining of all types, correctly.

What are the ways of fastening the lining

Ease of installation and a large number of positive properties contribute to the widespread use of this material, despite the constant emergence of new types and methods of sheathing the surface of the house.

One of the most accepted properties wooden panels is the opportunity to finish the premises or the facade of the house with your own hands (see) even for a novice master, after studying the nuances of the work. The main condition before nailing the lining with your own hands is patience and the acquisition of high-quality materials.

There are several options for attaching the material.

These include:

Most simple method fixing the lamellas is the use of small nails and clamps or staples. But fastening with the help of kleimers can only be done with thin panels, the mass of which is small. Otherwise, the grips may not hold. With this method:

the lamella is inserted into the groove located on the previous panel;
a kleimer is fixed inside the groove (see), with its help, the board is screwed to the crate element with self-tapping screws or ordinary screws.

Tip: Fasten one panel to another, it should be tight enough so that there are no gaps, and all elements are adjusted to the same size. The last panel must be adjusted to the free space, while it is cut to the desired width and fastened.

Screw fixing. This method is used when other methods cannot be used. Usually this is how the material is fixed in baths and saunas. A feature of the method is the need to drill a hole in the board for each screw. In this case, the diameter of the hole is two times smaller than the axis of the self-tapping screw. When installing panels:

screws are screwed in with a screwdriver, sinking each element as much as possible into the tree;
the holes are plugged with a wooden pin, which will securely fix the panel and cover the screw head so that it is not visible.

Tip: Due to changes in temperature and moisture, the attachment points will begin to dry out and become more visible. To prevent the appearance of such defects, the lining should be treated with special protective compounds.

Using only finishing nails for lining. This is a simple method that does not require other additional devices and fixing elements. But in this case, you can often ruin the panels. Carnations are nailed in increments of about 30 centimeters, which means that up to 8 carnations will be needed on one board two meters long, which will make up a fairly large number of elements for the total area. Instructions for hammering them include:

the nail is carefully pushed with a hammer in the right place, its angle to the plane of the panel should be 45 degrees;
the head of the element is sunk into the tree with the help of a blunt finisher, as deep as possible. This will avoid damage to the outer surface of the skin and unhindered entry into the groove of the next lining panel ridge.

Tip: This method cannot be used for the thinnest lining; when driving a nail, the material may split.

Fastening rails with screws. This method is used to fix old-style wooden panels that differ slightly from eurolining. Wherein:

holes are drilled in the panels;
countersinking and adjusting the chamfer under the hat, which allows you to hide it;
with a screwdriver, fasteners are twisted to the stop;
the groove is closed by the next panel.

The easiest way is to use construction brackets, which helps to install a lining stapler in place. In this case, the staples are inserted into the groove, like studs, at an angle of 45 degrees. The force that the stapler creates allows the staple to be driven tight and deep enough, after which the second panel of material can easily be placed in its place. Then the next board is placed and the process is repeated.

How to nail the lining, what method of its fastening and installation to use, is decided by the master performing the repair. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances and features of any of them, the conditions and factors in which the panels will be after installation.

How to prepare a frame for mounting material

How to nail the lining, how best to place it on the surface, the video in this article will tell you.

The direction of the panels can be:

Vertical. In this case, the boards are placed in the direction from floor to ceiling, the room visually becomes narrower and higher.
Horizontal. The slats are placed from one wall to another, the room looks wider, but lower.
Angled or diagonal. It's over complicated method laying the material, moreover, with its increased consumption.
Combined. Any combination of the first three methods.

With perfectly flat wooden surface lining can be nailed directly to the wall, which is very rare. In other cases, it is made of planed pine slats with a cross section of 20x40 millimeters of crate (see), with an element step of up to 50 centimeters.

Tip: Before installation, everything wooden details should be treated with an antiseptic.

The first rail is vertically installed in the corner of the room, its position is controlled by a plumb line. To install the screws, plastic dowels and wooden spacers are used.
Similarly, another rail is mounted in the opposite corner.
Two cords are stretched at the top and bottom of the wall between the bars, to facilitate the installation of the panel at the top and bottom.
Horizontal elements are fixed: one is under the ceiling, and the other is closer to the floor, their position is controlled by a cord.
With a step of 50 centimeters, the remaining rails are installed horizontally.

Advice. To check the correct installation of parts, a cord stretched between the extreme rails or a rule is used, which is an even wooden block, resting it on horizontal panels located at the top and bottom of the structure.

When the lining is placed horizontally, the laths for the crate are installed vertically. For diagonal laying- to the lining at a right angle.

Mounting options

How to nail vertical panels

The installation procedure is as follows:

Using a jigsaw or a file with a fine tooth, a lining panel of the desired length is cut off, which is taken about one centimeter less than the height of the room.
The first strip is placed with a crest to the corner.
To fix it, finishing nails for lining are used, their feature is a small diameter and a small hat.

In the future, you can do it in different ways:

With finishing nails, the lining is nailed in the center of the panel to each lath of the crate, and then the nail heads recessed into the wood are puttied, although it is possible not to putty.
Instead of nails, screws are used, with a diameter of approximately 3 millimeters.
With nails or screws, the lining strips are fixed not in the center, but along the ridge. In this case, the hole for the fastener must be carefully drilled. This is due to the small thickness of the ridge, which can cause cracking of the material. The photo shows how to nail the lining into the comb.

Nails are hammered or screws are screwed in the grooves of the lining. In this case, the fastener is hidden by the crest of the next strip.

Tip: Drive nails at an angle not to the very end to prevent damage to the front side. To finish off the nails, it is necessary to use a punch or core, with a specially blunt end.

Use clamps or metal staples to fasten the lining, which are fixed on the bottom shelf of the groove and nailed to the crate. The crest of the next strip is inserted into the groove of the first part and pushed up to the stop.

Tip: To protect the groove from damage, finish off the lining with a piece with a cut groove, which is inserted with a comb into the groove of the panel, and it is already struck with a hammer.

The remaining strips are fastened in the same way, with periodic control of the verticality of their location using a plumb line, and if necessary, the installation of the elements is adjusted.
The last strip is cut to the required width and fixed to the crate along the edge.
For next wall on the first strip, the comb is cut off. This panel will cover the nail heads located on the last element of the lining of the previous wall.
Further installation is carried out in the same way as on the first wall.

How to fasten the strips horizontally

By installing the panels from the bottom up, it is clearly visible how and with what nails it is better to nail the lining almost to the top of the wall surface. But having reached the ceiling, the strip must be cut in width, which may not look very nice.

In addition, with this method, the gaps between the strips will be visible, which is especially bad when finishing a sauna or bath due to moisture getting into them, which will lead to a quick loss of a beautiful appearance of the material.

When installing panels from top to bottom:

The first strip is fixed under the ceiling.
The next one is installed with a comb into the groove of the first one from the bottom.
It is nailed, and thus all elements are attached.
The last part is cut to width, carefully inserted into the groove on the previous strip. In this case, it is convenient to use the simplest lever, which can be a nail puller or a mount.
The gap formed near the floor is covered with a plinth.

How to nail a lining diagonally

This method is more often used on ceilings, and less often on walls. The technology for mounting the lining diagonally is different.

In this case:

The beginning of the installation of the panel is from the corner.
On each strip, the ends are cut at the required angle according to the template.
When lining the ceiling with clapboard, more convenient fastening carry out with clamps on screws, using a screwdriver or a screwdriver with a battery.

After mounting the lining panels on the walls and ceiling, it is necessary to decorate the existing corners, which can be:

Vertical.
Horizontal.
Internal. They are closed with a special jute cord or a shaped corner rail.
External, decorated wooden corners, nailed with finishing nails.

The correct choice of the method of fastening the lining panels will provide quality finish at home.

The walls in the house in their area take up much more space than the ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be taken as carefully as possible, having thought for this as a type facing material and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must necessarily have an attractive appearance and be easy to maintain. The article will focus on the choice and methods of fastening eurolining.

Eurolining

Wood is one of the most sought after building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of the house and for internal works. After all, a tree is natural material, which is ready to serve for more than one decade and has a fairly attractive appearance.

Eurolining photo

Eurolining is a kind finishing material processed in a special way from all sides. To facilitate the skin, there are grooves and spikes along its edges. The dimensions of the eurolining may vary slightly, but the most popular material with the following parameters:
1. thickness 1.2 cm;
2. width 9.6 cm;
3. length 2-3 m.
Clapboard - pretty practical material which is easy to install. It helps in leveling the walls, in hiding the defects that have arisen due to improper plastering of the walls. Characteristics depend on the type of wood itself from which it is made. After all, all types of wood are different in their structure and properties.
The material for the production of this type of finishing materials is a tree of both deciduous and coniferous species. Coniferous species are much lower in price than hardwoods. So, eurolining from cedar will cost more than from pine. Wood should be selected depending on its application.
Also, other types of materials are used in production. PVC lining is the most cost-effective material, but in this case the finishing material is inferior in quality. After all natural wood will always look much more attractive than artificial plastic.
If there is a need to finish the room from the inside, then the use of finishing material with low characteristics is allowed. When outer cladding, on the contrary, you should use hardwood lining, which is not afraid of an aggressive operating environment, resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. In order for it to last longer, it is treated with a special solution, which gives it greater strength and wear resistance.

Variety of eurolining

Class difference

extra class. This is the most elite type of lining. It differs in that it has absolutely no defects;
"A" class. Minor defects may be present in this type;
"B" class. Here there are knots in more than in the class above. The diameter of the knots is also larger;
"C" class. The cheapest and poor quality type of lining. Its applications for decorative design impractical.

Wood difference

The most popular type of eurolining is a board pine wood. This is due not only to the high positive indicators of the material, but also to the rather low price of it. Pine lining has a fairly high strength, and its specific gravity relatively small. It will not create too much load on the crate. This wood contains much less moisture than hardwoods. In addition, the amount of time required for drying its blanks is much less than for drying other breeds. This fact leads to an optimization of the production process and lower costs.
Since it is pine eurolining that has a high content of resins in its composition, it is durable and useful for the human body. After all, the release into the air essential oils can cure even advanced chronic lung diseases. And the pleasant smell of pine will not hurt anyone, while creating a good mood and a feeling of comfort. The resin itself is an excellent preservative, which greatly increases the life of the wood.

In addition, a pine board looks quite attractive and original. It has a peculiar yellowish tint and differs beautiful pattern from knots and rings of a tree trunk.

The main advantages of eurolining from pine:

attractive appearance and original texture of the material;
long service life. This board does not even have to be treated with special impregnations and apply a protective coating;
low weight;
a large number of manufacturers on the market;
relatively low price compared to other types of wood;
fairly wide range. The fact is that it is pine boards that are presented on the market in all kinds of designs. Sizes can be customized to your taste. But eurolining from other types of trees of the right size is more difficult to find;
pine is a tree that is easy to process and install. As a result, it is quite easy to install. This can be done on your own, without the involvement of professionals.

Of course, in addition to pine, useful properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a large concentration of resin in the material, it also differs spruce lining. But it releases sticky drops of resin during the entire period of operation. Such a board is also called a board that cries. In this regard, the price of eurolining from spruce is much lower than for a board from pine.

So, we proceed directly to the installation of eurolining itself. In general, it is no different from installing a conventional lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.

How to fix eurolining

Preparing walls for cladding. First, you need to level the wall. In this case, a crate should be used, which is installed at an angle of ninety degrees to the direction of the lining. The crate is not required if the walls are already fairly even.
Determining the direction of eurolining. There are several types of installation. So, vertical laying visually increases the height of the ceilings. Horizontal - visually increases the space of the room. But laying at an angle will look stylish and original.
Choice of mounting method. In total there are several options for attaching eurolining. These are fasteners to the wall itself or to the crate, fastening to special brackets with holes for mounting. The latter method is used if a narrow eurolining is used. To do this, the bracket is nailed to the wall in order to connect it to the groove with the next element.
If it is necessary to make the mount invisible, then it is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw into the eurolining spike itself. At the same time, the next element closes the head of the self-tapping screw when docking and entering the groove into the groove.
When the self-tapping screws are attached to the lining itself, then special wooden dowels are used. They allow you to hide the mount and give the lining a solid look.

Preparation for work on the installation of eurolining

It is necessary to store eurolining before its installation in a special way. It must be in the manufacturer's packaging in a dry and clean room, there should be no sudden temperature changes and direct sunlight is absolutely excluded.
In order for the material to become accustomed to environment, it is recommended to remove it from the package two days before the start of installation work.
With the help of a dry or slightly damp cloth, dust and dirt on the material is removed.
It is very important at this stage to treat the lining with a special antiseptic solution. It prevents the occurrence of mold, fungi and protects against the appearance of insects. After that, the slats should dry thoroughly.

It must be taken into account that installation work for sheathing are produced exclusively at an air temperature of at least 5 ° C. Also, the air humidity should not be higher than 60%.
If there is a desire to cover the material with special decorative varnishes or paint, then the easiest way is to do this before starting installation work. This will allow you to apply a layer of varnish evenly and dry it without smudges. When covering the walls of a bath or sauna, the use of varnish is prohibited. After all, in the process of heating, it will emit harmful fumes into the air.
The next step is to correctly calculate the amount of material that will be required for sheathing. To do this, both the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls or ceiling, and the thickness of the board are taken into account. We should not forget that the working width of the lining is reduced by ten millimeters due to the fact that the longitudinal spike enters the groove of the next element.

Lathing for installation of eurolining

In order for the eurolining to serve for a single decade and not lose its properties during operation, it must be fixed exclusively on a flat surface. Therefore, it is often impossible to mount it on bare walls. If the walls are wooden and absolutely smooth, then in this case, installation can be started without surface preparation. If the wall is made of brick, concrete or metal, then you need to start with the arrangement of a wooden crate.

It is a framework of wooden slats, having a thickness of two or three centimeters and attached to the surface. You can attach them not only to the walls, but also to the ceiling and floor. If the slats are attached to the ceiling, then the distance between them should be about 40 cm. And if on the wall, then from 50 to 70 cm. The direction must be chosen so that they are at right angles to the boards. For best results, use a level. In this case, the rails will be installed as evenly as possible. On the material for the crate is also not worth saving. It is important that the slats are straight and without significant defects. Their role is not only to perfectly level the surface, but also to create special ventilation between the wall and the lining.

Ways of fastening eurolining

Fastening eurolining with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached to the screws on the side where the spike is located. The length of the fasteners is best chosen within 1-1.5 cm. After tightening, the screws should be covered using a dowel. Upon completion of the skin, it is necessary to cut off all protruding elements and carefully sand the entire surface.

Lining with eurolining using invisible fastening with brackets. The first lining board is applied to the right corner and cut along the right size. Then it is fixed with special staples, or as they are also called clamps. They firmly fix the cladding to the crate, while not interfering with the joining of subsequent rails by means of a tenon-groove.

Invisible fastening with nails. This fastening method is similar to that of stapling. But, in this case, not staples are used, but narrow nails that are galvanized. But the hats should be hammered deep into the material, otherwise they will stick out and interfere with the fastening of the next board.

Do-it-yourself installation of eurolining

The first board is set as straight as possible in a vertical position in the right corner. In this case, you can not do without a level. This is important because all other boards that are attached to the starting board must be perfectly even.
Next, the lining is attached by any of the methods described earlier.
The subsequent board must be inserted with a spike into the groove of the initial one and driven tightly along the board. Next, check the evenness of the vertical, using a level or plumb line. If there are even the slightest inaccuracies, then the board should be installed on a new one. The angle must be strictly 90 degrees.

The last plank is cut to size and, in order to make the corner more beautiful, it is covered with fittings, in particular, a decorative wooden corner.
Installation of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out according to a similar principle.

Installation of eurolining video

Eurolining care

In order for the cladding board not to lose its attractiveness and serve as long as possible without changing its characteristics, it needs proper and systematic care, which is directly related to the processing methods and the purpose of the lining.
If the room in which the eurolining will be located is excessively humid or prone to significant temperature changes, then the boards themselves may soon change their appearance, crack and deform.
For protection, various natural impregnations, oils and varnishes can serve. They can also be applied during the operation of the cladding, thereby updating its appearance.
If the lining is treated with an antiseptic containing boric salt, then it can be sheathed not only in saunas and baths, but also in the external facade of the house. In this case, she will not be afraid of rain, wind or frost.
To care for the lining, the use of abrasive substances is prohibited. It will be enough to wipe the tree with a damp cloth dipped in soapy water. If it is necessary to eliminate the stain on the board, then the solvent can be used locally. Subsequently, treat the place of cleaning with varnish or oil, depending on what material it was treated with earlier.

As you can see, eurolining is a universal natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of eurolining make it a leader among facing materials.

Eurolining is almost the same wooden lining, only manufactured according to European standard DIN 68126. latest technology processing makes this environmentally friendly material even more moisture resistant and durable, and also greatly facilitates its installation.

This environmentally friendly material will allow you to easily level the walls or improve the interior of the room, but also visually expand the room, giving it your own individual style. In order for the eurolining to please your eye for many years to come, do not neglect the following recommendations for its installation.

What tools will be needed?

In order to competently carry out the installation, without resorting to the help of professional workers, you will need:

perforator;
jigsaw;
drill;
hammer or doboynik;
ruler with a level;
mounting thread;
self-tapping screws for wood;

Preparing for installation

Eurolining is a material made of solid wood. Therefore, the color and texture of each panel may vary.

Before proceeding with the installation material needs to be prepared. To do this, you need to unpack it and leave it at room temperature for 2-3 days to let her get used to the microclimate of the room where she will be installed.

Installation must be carried out at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees and humidity not more than 60 percent.

5 ways to install eurolining

1. Mount on self-tapping screws

With this mounting option, installation can be done both from below and from above. A hole for a self-tapping screw with a depth of about 10 mm is made into the panel from the side of the spike with a drill.

After screwing in the screws, the remaining holes can be covered with dowels. When the installation is completed, the dowels are cut to the level of the board and polished.

2. Fasten with staples

Installation starts from the bottom, the boards are laid in turn.

With a construction stapler, the staples are driven into the spike at a 45-degree angle. In this case, the spike of the board that will follow should easily fall into the groove.

3. Fasten with nails

This method is very similar to the previous one. Do not leave nail heads protruding above the surface, they must go completely into the wood.

Otherwise, you may experience problems installing the next item. When applying this method, it is best to use thin zinc-plated nails and a hammer.

4. Hidden fastening with dowels

Laying should go strictly from the bottom up. The first lining is fixed with self-tapping screws, and their hats are hidden with dowels. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the spike, and the next panel masks it.

The same can be done with a construction stapler. fasteners last panel carried out in the same way as the initial one. The final step is sanding to level the surface.

5. Fastening with clamps

Kleimers are staples made of zinc-plated metal. You should only use them if you are inner lining thin eurolining.

Kleimers are fixed with back side spike. The initial panel should be fixed with self-tapping screws, and the hats should be masked with dowels.

Kleimers are first attached to the board, which is matched with the previous one. Kleimer is fixed by means of a self-tapping screw or a nail. If they do not fit, do not hit them with a hammer - the groove or spike may suffer on impact. If such a situation arose, it is better to put a piece of rail under the hammer.

We install the crate

The direction of the wooden frame depends on the direction in which you decide to lay the lining.

If you decide to lay them vertically, then the laths of the crate should go horizontally. If you have chosen a horizontal or diagonal mounting method, the crate should be directed vertically.

thermal insulation

Mineral wool can be an excellent insulation. It fills the space between the lining and the wall well.

If a you need to add more hydro- or vapor barrier, you can use a water-repellent film.

It is fastened with a stapler over cotton - with the shiny side inward.

Kleimers

- secret fastening by means of clips - kleimers.

They are invisible from the outside and do not interfere with the expansion or contraction of the tree, and galvanized steel does not corrode.

Kleimers are sold in packs of 100 or 200 pieces. together with zinc-coated steel nails or self-tapping screws. Do not neglect such qualities as the elasticity of the clamps, the quality of the steel and coating.

Video - more about kleimers:

Wall and ceiling mounting

How to fix eurolining to the ceiling? It's easy enough with all necessary tools and desires.

Naturally, the room should have its own main ceiling and frame installation conditions.

The main roof must not leak. Frameworks for fastening eurolining can be iron or wooden. Installation of boards is carried out using clamps. The junction of the ceiling board with the wall can be masked with wooden skirting boards or baguettes.

Video - to the walls:

How to fix eurolining to the wall? If you decide to mount it directly to the wall, make sure it is perfectly level. Otherwise, you will need to pre-assemble a special wooden frame on which you will mount the boards. There are many ways to lay eurolining.

For example, to visually expand the room, fasten the boards horizontally, and to make it taller - vertically. Laying diagonally or herringbone will help you to give the room a creative and express your personality.

The method of its fastening also depends on the method of laying eurolining - from top to bottom or from bottom to top, with self-tapping screws. nails or staples. Upon completion finishing works inner and outer corners are decorated with special corners made of wood or a hemp cord.

Finishing touches

When the finish is completed, it does not hurt to treat the surface of the boards with an antiseptic. This will help protect them from rot and fungus.

To make the texture brighter, you can use a stain or wax. A matte lacquer finish will also look good.

Self-mounting eurolining is a fairly simple and quick thing. This does not require any special skills or knowledge. In addition, at the end of the work, you will not be left with mountains of garbage and waste.