Winter onions: planting and care. When and how to plant winter onions

Many people know that onions can be planted both in spring and autumn. Most gardeners adhere to spring planting dates, and not many practice planting onions before winter. But in recent times planting onions before winter is becoming more popular. And this is no accident, gardeners were able to appreciate positive sides such a landing, and there are several of them.

It is worth noting that when planting any crop before winter, it is important to follow all the recommendations regarding the timing and planting technology, otherwise you can get enough results.

When planting in winter, it is very important to choose a suitable winter variety, to determine optimal time, a place for planting and qualitatively prepare a bed and seed.

Planting onions before winter has a lot of compelling advantages:

  • It is this kind of onion that grows larger and stronger than bulbs planted in spring;
  • When planted before winter, the bulbs are hardened in cold conditions. Such plants are already gaining strength by spring, which means they will be more resistant to diseases and pests. That is why the onion planted before winter almost does not damage annoying onion fly;
  • Another plus of winter planting is the reduction of weeding. The first shoots of onions will appear immediately after the snow melts, the onions will have time to grow and get stronger before the mass appearance of weeds;

Another important factor- no need to worry about safety planting material until spring. This is especially important for the smallest fraction of sevka, the so-called "oatmeal". Such a bow will definitely not survive until spring planting, it will simply dry out. Oatmeal almost never shoots, and the harvest of such sets is not the worst.

  • Planting onions before winter - significantly saves time in the hot spring;
  • Early harvest. Onions planted before winter ripen in July. The vacated bed can be reused, or sown with green manure.

The negative side of this planting is a decrease in onion yield in the event of a harsh winter. In the event of sudden changes in temperature or severe frosts the bow may die. Therefore, it is very important to correctly approach the issue of choosing a variety and not deviate from the recommendations for winter planting.

Another negative point is the impossibility of planting large bulbs. They almost always go to the arrow. You can only plant them on a feather. But knowing this feature, you can provide yourself with early greens by planting a little large seed separately.

Grown from bulbs of autumn planting, the crop is well stored. But still spring onions are stored much better.

What onions can be planted before winter

Sevok is usually divided according to the diameter of the bulbs:

  • Oatmeal - the smallest onion, less than 1 cm;
  • the first category - from 1 cm to 1.5 cm;
  • the second category - 1.5–3 cm;
  • samples - more than 3 cm.

For growing onions on a turnip, oatmeal and sets of the first category are suitable, on a feather - of the second category and samples.

The best varieties of winter onions

Not all onion varieties are suitable for autumn planting. When choosing planting material, you need to purchase sets of varieties adapted to the climatic conditions of the region.

AT middle lane For planting before winter, the most popular varieties are:

Stuttgarter Riesen, Radar, Arzamas, Strigunovsky, Danilovsky, Bessonovsky, Ellan, Odintsovets, Senshui, Shakespeare, Red Baron.

Each variety of onion has its own taste characteristics, some are more burning, others are more tender. If you plant several varieties, in the future it will be possible to decide on preferences: which one you like better, which ripens earlier or is more productive. The main characteristics of popular varieties of winter onions are presented in the following table.

The best varieties of winter onions and characteristics - Table

Onion variety spicy size storage maturation
Arzamas spicy small lying
Bessonovsky spicy small lying 80
Buran spicy lying 68-83
Danilovsky spicy small lying
Danilovsky-301 peninsular large 100-110
Lugansk spicy large lying 95-105
Mouzon peninsular few 90-110
Myachkovsky-300 65-75
Panther F1 lying 130-135
Radar or Raider spicy lying 250-260
Red Baron spicy large lying 95-110
Ruby peninsular average average 80-90
Senshui spicy large lying
Siberian lying 90-100
Strigunovsky spicy average lying 110-120
Sturon peninsular average lying 105-110
Tamara F1 105-110
Chalcedony spicy average lying 90-95
peninsular 100-105
Shakespeare peninsular large average
Stuttgarter Riesen spicy average lying 70-120
Ellan sweet lying

Planting onions before winter: optimal timing

For planting onions before winter, it is very important to correctly determine the timing.

If planted early, the bulb will have time to germinate. And with a delay in planting, it will not have time to take root before frost. In both cases, the onion can overwinter badly, which will negatively affect the crop in the future.

When planting onions before winter, you need to choose a time so that the bulb has time to form roots before the soil freezes, but cannot germinate. If the feather of the bulb sprouts by 1-2 cm, there is nothing to worry about. Subject to the planting depth, such a bulb will overwinter normally. It is much worse if the bulb sprouts significantly. Beds with such an onion must be mulched to avoid its death. And in winter, snow can be added to such beds.

In order to correctly determine the date of planting the sevka, you need to focus on the current temperature conditions and the weather forecast.

Planting can be started if the temperature is around +5°…+7°С for several days, and a gradual decrease in temperature is expected.

To determine the time of planting onions in different regions you need to focus on the climatic conditions of the region and the current weather conditions at the moment.

So in the middle lane this period is approximately from the end of September to the 20th of October.

In any case, onions should be planted at least a month or even a little more before the onset of cold weather.

To make it easier to deal with the timing, try planting onions at different times. Analyzing the results, one can empirically install optimal time planting winter onions in their area.

What to do if you are late with planting onions?

If for some reason you did not have time to plant onions before winter, then here you need to act according to the circumstances.

If there has not yet been frost, then the ground must be carefully covered so that it does not freeze. For these purposes, a layer of compost (of course, preferably thicker), humus, folded several times and other materials is suitable.

Experienced summer residents advise that if there is not a lot of onions, then you can bring a couple of buckets of earth into the house, to the stove. The next day, when the earth warms up, you can plant it, laying out the heated earth directly into the grooves.

If there is a lot of onion, then it is better to sort it out. Leave a large set until spring, and plant a small one.

Caution should be taken with the advice to "spill the earth hot water". In damp conditions, onions can rot.

How to plant onions before winter

After what crops can onions be planted

It is very good to plant winter onions in the garden where cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, beets, and cereals used to grow. It is not recommended to plant it after onions and cabbage, garlic.

When growing onions, it is very important to observe crop rotation. You can not plant onions from year to year in one place.

How to choose a place and prepare a bed for planting onions

As well as for, a bed for planting onions should be chosen in a sunny place a little on a hill. In no case should you choose those areas where water stagnates in spring. Like all bulbs, onion sets will simply rot in such conditions.

It is desirable to choose a place on the site so that in the spring the snow melts there as early as possible.

The garden bed for the autumn planting of onions must be prepared in advance so that the earth has time to settle.

If the onion is planted immediately after digging the earth, then this is fraught with the fact that in the future the soil will compact and settle. Onions will be on the surface of the soil and freeze.

Onions prefer fertile and loose soil with acidity close to neutral. If the acidity is high, then lime or dolomite flour must be added.

To improve the soil for digging, compost or humus is added - 5-6 kg per m².

From fertilizers, apply fertilizers from the Autumn series or superphosphate 20-25 g per 1 sq. meter and potassium salt 10-15 gr. potash fertilizers can be replaced with ash, which also helps to reduce the acidity of the soil and serves to prevent various rot.

It is desirable to make the beds raised up to a height of 15 cm; water will not stagnate on such beds. If the soil is dense, heavy, then the creation of raised beds is a must.

How to prepare onions for planting

Preparing sevka before winter has its own characteristics. First of all, it must be visually inspected - the sevok should be dry, hard, with no signs of rot. Sick, damaged, dried onions must be removed from planting material.

Then it needs to be calibrated, divided by size: separate the small ones - oatmeal, sets and samples. Part of this sevka will go to the turnip, the other - to grow greenery.

  • oatmeal (up to 1 cm in diameter) - per head (turnip);
  • sevok (with a diameter of 1 to 2 cm) - on the head and partly a feather (greens);
  • large (diameter more than 2-3 cm) - only on greens (very early).

Pre-sowing preparation of onion sets is very milestone. And it consists in the following:

  • Sorting and sizing. Dry, rotten bulbs are removed and the seed is laid out according to size. You need to plant them not interspersed, but in different places. The largest ones are best used on a pen. They are more likely to shoot. And the smallest set is best suited for autumn planting and produces large heads.
  • Warming up onion sets. This is done in order to "wake up" the seeds and this operation prevents the onion from shooting. Can be put where the temperature is 20°C for at least 20 days. Then for 10 hours to where it is about 40°C. You can quickly rinse with very hot water and dry.
  • hardening. The bulbs are lowered into water, the temperature of which is 45-50 ° C for 15 minutes. After that, leave for the same time cold water. Cold and hot shower;
  • Onion processing, disinfection. It is done in order to protect the sevok from damage by fungal diseases. Such soaking is carried out immediately before planting. Usually, a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate or a pale blue solution of copper sulfate (from phytophthora) is used for this. In a solution of sevoc stand 2-3 hours After that, you need to dry the bulbs well.
  • The use of saline. To reduce the risk of infection of the plant with a stem or onion nematode. Preparation of the solution: for 1 liter of water take 1 tablespoon of table salt. The onion sets are immersed in the mixture for 10-20 minutes. You can use baking soda instead of salt.

Shooting and disease prevention

The following measures are necessary to prevent diseases and exclude the shooting of bulbs in the spring

To prevent shooting

  • Dip the bulbs in a warm solution of potassium permanganate (50-60 ° C) for 20 minutes, when planting, spill the grooves with hot water
  • In order for the sevok not to go into the arrow, it must be well warmed up at a temperature of 50-60 ° C before planting. I usually hang in a canvas bag near the battery for 2-3 days, so that the bag does not touch the battery. It dries out at the same time.

For disease prevention

  • Treatment with the drug "Maxim", "Fitosporin" according to the instructions.
    Dip the sevok for 3 hours in a saline solution (1 tablespoon of salt per 1 liter of water), then for 3 hours in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate.

Dry bulbs tolerate cold snaps better than swollen bulbs, moreover, the latter may begin to germinate too quickly.

Planting onions before winter - technology

Planting onions before winter - technology description:

  1. For planting, you need to level the bed, then make holes or cut grooves according to the scheme:
  • the distance between the grooves is 15-25 cm. This is the optimal distance for processing row spacings with a flat cutter when spring care for onions;
  • groove depth - 5-8 cm (depending on the size of the bulb). Before winter, the planting depth should be greater than when planting in spring. For the smallest set - oatmeal, make grooves no deeper than 2-3 cm, otherwise it will not have enough strength to germinate in the spring;
  • the distance between the bulbs is 7–8 cm. You can plant onions more often. Then in the spring, thinning out the plantings, part of the onion can be used for greens.
  • when planting onions only on a feather, the distance between the onions is slightly different. They are placed closely so that in the spring the plant directs its forces not to the growth of the bulb, but to the feather.
  1. Spread out or stick in the sevok. If you have heavy clay soil, then it is advisable to pour river sand, then add more sand on top of the bulb. All bulbous crops prefer loose soil. This technique will help to avoid the death of the onion from waterlogging in heavy, damp soil.

3. Sprinkle the bulbs with earth and lightly compact. Level the bed with a rake so that the bulbs sprout evenly in the spring.

  1. If the ground is relatively moist, then watering is not necessary so as not to provoke strong growth of the plant. If there is no rain, then 10 days after planting, you will need to water the bed.
  2. The beds can be sprinkled with a little humus, compost or sawdust.

Onion care after planting

For winter onions special care after landing is not required. It is necessary to cover the beds with planted onions only when the soil is slightly frozen. It is impossible to cover immediately after planting, as the onion can dry out. .

After the onset of a light frost, you need to mulch the bed with fallen leaves, spruce branches, dry tops, dry sawdust, straw, peat or other materials. Top with branches, poles, etc. (to hold snow). In winter, you need to throw snow on the garden bed, this best protection from freezing.

With the onset of spring, when the snow melts and the soil begins to thaw, all shelters should be removed, because the ground under it, on the contrary, will only warm up longer.

Mulch also needs to be removed so that the soil warms up faster.
After emergence in early spring, it is necessary to fertilize the bed.

Video: planting onions before winter, features

Conclusion

In fact, planting onions before winter is not a difficult process. The main thing is to choose the right planting material and do all the work on time in compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.

Onion is a vegetable crop that is grown by almost every gardener. This is due to the fact that onions are one of the most popular ingredients for cooking, a useful addition to the diet. That is why many summer residents are wondering: how to plant onions so that there are large bulbs? To get a good harvest, onion planting should be carried out taking into account several rules: choosing a place, selecting planting material, determining the optimal season.

Before you start planting a crop, you need to understand what kind of soil the onion loves. The first step is to understand that the onion culture is actively growing and developing in conditions of good light and heat.

If the plant experiences a lack of light, the bulbs will not develop, and the planting will soon wither. Therefore, the best option for growing onions are the central places in the garden, next to which trees do not grow, tall buildings are not located.

Then it is required to determine the type of soil, the earth is diagnosed using litmus paper. Onion likes sandy or sandy soil. Under such conditions, the plant forms a healthy, powerful root system, and also ripens in a timely manner.

  1. AT autumn period the bed is fertilized with rotted manure or ash. These fertilizers are a large number of nutrients that help the bow develop. The optimal amount of fertilizer per 1 square meter: 6 kilograms.
  2. The entire ridge needs to be dug to a depth of 20 centimeters.
  3. All debris and weeds are removed from the soil.
  4. After the soil has been fertilized, it must be leveled with a rake and left in this state until the onset of the spring period.

Such soil preparation will allow you to get a healthy, large onion crop. In the spring, you need to re-dig the soil. This will allow even distribution of nutrients in the ground.

Planting material preparation

To obtain good harvest, it is necessary to process the onion before planting. First of all, the bulbs are moved. For planting, only healthy bulbs, on the surface of which there are no damages, can be used.

  1. The selected sevok is distributed by size. This is necessary for uniform cultivation of onions.
  2. Planting material is left to dry at a temperature of 35 degrees for 3 days. If it is not possible to dry the onion in this way, it must be calcined in the oven at a temperature of 40 degrees. The processing time in the oven is 4 hours.
  3. Then the sevok is immersed in the osta stimulator for 8 hours.
  4. The bulbs are removed from the fertilizer and immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 10 minutes.
  5. The planting material is then rinsed and used for planting.

Such processing and soaking of onions before planting activates metabolic processes in the bulbs, improves their germination, and protects against diseases.

How to plant an onion on a turnip?

To obtain healthy plant, a swollen turnip, we plant sevok in the ground only when it warms up to 12 degrees. In most cases, spring onions are planted on a turnip in mid-April or early May. Landing is best done in cloudy weather, while the street should be dry. Then holes are made in the garden according to the following principle:

  • between plants in a row there should be a distance of at least 15 centimeters;
  • the distance between rows should be 30 centimeters;
  • seedlings should be deepened into holes or grooves by 7–10 centimeters.

After planting the seedlings, the soil should be watered. To do this, you need to use settled water. It is desirable that it be at room temperature.

If during planting the summer resident made a mistake and placed the bulbs close, they need to be thinned out. Otherwise, during the growing season, plant crops will be deficient in nutrients. In this case, there will be a stop in the growth of bulbs, and root system will start to tangle. During this period, it will be difficult to thin out the plants.

Planting onions in July or spring

If the summer resident decided to plant a plant in July or spring, he needs to prepare the beds for onions in the fall. There are several differences between growing a crop in spring or summer.

If the summer resident wants to grow onions from seed material, sowing should be organized immediately after the soil has warmed up and the snow has melted. Only with such a planting will the onion have time to ripen. If the gardener has seedlings that were sown in the last days of February, they should be transplanted into the ground in mid-April. If the summer resident wants to plant a turnip in the spring, the recommendations indicated above will be needed. In this case, sevok is used as planting material.

Many summer residents, in order to get a richer harvest, plant sevok twice. It should be noted that only under conditions southern climate there is an opportunity to grow onions in July. July planting can only be carried out if the summer season ends in mid or late September.

Having planted onions in the summer, it is necessary to harvest at the end of August, therefore, only early-ripening crop varieties should be used for planting. The July vegetable is planted in a similar way.

Sowing seeds

In most cases, a turnip vegetable is grown in 2 years. Such cultivation is typical for sowing a plant using seeds. From the sown seeds of nigella grows onion sets, which are used for growing turnips the next year. The temperature and scheme of planting, sowing seeds is determined using the following instructions:

  1. First, the seeds are soaked in warm water. Such a procedure is necessary in order to select healthy seeds, discard empty ones.
  2. After 24 hours, the water is drained. Only the seed that has fallen to the bottom is taken from the bowl.
  3. Selected seeds are placed in gauze, wrapped and placed in a dark place.
  4. After the seeds dry, they are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.
  5. After disinfection, the material is dried and used for sowing.

Soil preparation for sowing is carried out according to the above instructions. Then the summer resident can start sowing:

  • in open ground conditions, grooves are made, the depth of which is 2–4 centimeters;
  • between the rows is a distance of 10-30 centimeters.
  • grooves are watered with hot water to disinfect the soil;
  • seeds are sown at a distance of 1-3 centimeters from each other;
  • then the ridges are re-irrigated using water at room temperature;
  • beds are covered with foil.

After shoots appear on the surface of the soil, the film can be removed.

How to plant onions of winter varieties?

For planting before winter, it is necessary to use a set of small sizes. Planting material grown in spring should be planted 3-4 weeks before the soil freezes. It is better to plant onions when the temperature environment drops to 5 degrees.

Planting a winter variety is carried out taking into account the instructions:

  1. Furrows 3–4 cm deep are formed on the ridge.
  2. Furrows are located at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from each other.
  3. Sevok is planted in furrows at a distance of 3-10 centimeters from each other. The distance is determined by the estimated dimensions of the turnip: the larger the variety forms a turnip, the longer the distance between sets should be.
  4. The furrows are sprinkled with earth, covered with mulch. Dry leaves, humus, spruce branches, tops, sawdust, pine needles are used as mulch.

After the onset of spring, the melting of snow, it is necessary to remove the mulch. This will allow the soil to warm up faster. Then the earth is loosened, the plants are fed diluted in water chicken manure. When the leaves appear, you need to make a second top dressing. The best option for this is the drug Plantafol.

Onion harvesting begins when the leaves fall to the ground, and the onion scales acquire the color characteristic of the variety. Onions are dug out very carefully, left to dry in a ventilated area. After the bulbs have dried, they can be stored.

Onion care in the open field

During the cultivation of the plant, it is necessary not only to process the onion before planting, but also to provide other necessary care. To get a good harvest of onions, you must follow a few simple rules:

  • watering planting is required once a week;
  • use only settled water for irrigation;
  • in dry weather, watering is carried out twice a week;
  • after watering or rain, the soil must be carefully loosened;
  • all emerging weeds must be removed in a timely manner;
  • as a means for the prevention of fungal and viral diseases of onions, copper sulfate can be used;
  • in July, the number of waterings needs to be reduced so that the turnips are fully ripe.

After the appearance of the first shoots, the plants should be thinned out if necessary.

Chinese way of growing bulbs

In addition to the traditional cultivation method, there is also a Chinese one. Growing large onions from planting material was invented by the Chinese by forming ridges, not ridges. The ridges are formed so that they rise above the ground by 15–20 centimeters, a distance of at least 30 centimeters is maintained between them. Instructions for planting onions in the Chinese way:

  1. The prepared sevok is immersed in the ridges 2–3 centimeters deep, sprinkled with earth, and compacted a little.
  2. The comb is watered.
  3. Then the soil is loosened.

It is better to plant onions in the Chinese way early in the morning to protect them from the sun's rays. This method of planting allows you to grow a rich crop of large, fully ripe and mature bulbs.

In early spring, you really want to enjoy fresh onion greens, and it takes a long time to wait for onions planted in spring to grow. Yes, and the harvest from winter onions can be obtained early and plentiful, and in the remaining time, take the garden with another crop. Also, growing winter onions can make good money if you approach this business wisely.

Somehow it so happened historically that we mainly plant onions in the spring, trying to select larger and juicier sets. If anyone has grown sevok on their own, they know how hard it is to keep the small bulbs of the sevka in winter. During storage before spring planting, they have time to dry completely and turn into "nothing". Such an unjustified waste of labor invested. But small sevok can be planted in the fall and not worry about its safety, and in the spring you can enjoy green feathers and in July get a chic crop of onion turnips.

I will share my experience, why I plant onions in the fall and what secrets there are in this technology. Moreover, this method is gaining inevitable popularity for its simplicity, and small-sized winter onion sets are sold more expensive than large ones in the autumn planting season.

How to get winter onion sets

For those who like to do everything themselves, I’ll tell you how to grow sevok on your own. In the earliest possible time, as soon as the snow melts and the soil warms up at least slightly, we sow nigella (onion seeds). Sowing is thickened, we make a wide strip of about 5 - 6 cm. We make such a distance between the strips that it is easy to weed. We cover with earth with a layer of 1 - 2 cm, lightly roll it up, like carrot crops, and mulch with compost or humus.
We water the crops, and after the emergence of shoots in hot and dry weather, we repeat the watering.

As the onion sets grow from seeds, we weed the bed, loosen the soil after each watering or rain. Sevok does not need feeding.

An indicator that it is time to dig onion sets is that the leaves turn yellow and fall down. Then we dig everything at once and leave it to dry in the garden. When it dries, the leaves quickly and easily peel off directly with your hands.

The crucial moment comes: to select and sort the seed bulbs. First of all, we wind our crop in the wind and sort it: we leave large bulbs (more than 1 cm in diameter) for spring sowing, and small ones (less than 1 cm in diameter) - we will plant in the fall.

Why onion sets for planting in the fall should be small:

  • Small onions do not shoot, so you can, without fear of frost and spring frosts, get a chic harvest of high-quality onions. This happens due to the fact that the supply of nutrients in them is very small, it is not enough to form an arrow with seeds.
  • During the winter and early spring, the bulbs gain enough nutrients to please in the spring with excellent greens, feathers, and in late June - early August provide turnips.
  • The area after an early onion can be used for other vegetables.
  • It turns out very economically, since the small sevka still will not “live” until the spring plantings, and so it gives a good harvest.

Winter onion varieties: description
  • Senshiyu yellow,
  • Radar,
  • Kip Well,
  • Ellan,
  • Mstersky,
  • Danilovsky,
  • Stuttgarten Riesen,
  • Strigunovsky local,
  • Odintsovets,
  • Myachkovsky 300,
  • golden,
  • Carmen MS,
  • Sturon.

Not every onion variety is able to survive frosts, but breeders have bred varieties and hybrids that can be dormant in the soil under snow, and grow in conditions of not too long daylight hours.

For example, bulbs of the variety Shakespeare able to withstand frost down to -18 degrees, so it is most often used for planting in the fall. It is unpretentious and does not require special care. The bulb itself is round with white flesh and brown integumentary scales.

Varieties Radar and Ellan characterized by good germination, excellent taste, early ripening. So Ellan can be consumed already in June, when spring onions and garlic are still growing, and last year's harvest is over. turnips medium size, weighing 100-150 grams, and Radar with good care can please and large - up to 300 grams.

Such winter varieties are deservedly popular. Sturon, Baron, Centurion. It takes 2-2.5 months from the beginning of the regrowth of the sevka to full maturation. Sturon is perfectly stored for at least 8 months, and Centurion is distinguished by a high content of vitamin C and a spicy taste.

Somewhat flat, golden-brown fruits with a sharp taste of the variety Studgarten Riesen ripen in 2 months and grow up to 150-200 grams.

Variety name Keep Well speaks for itself: they prefer to grow it for long-term storage. It has the same elongated bulb shape as the variety Bamberger, but slightly larger. Winter onions of these varieties have proven themselves to be unpretentious in care and convenient for planting in the fall.

Mstersky onions are cultivated in Mstera Ivanovo industrial region. Forms a not very large bulb of a flat shape. The color of dry scales is yellow with a pink tint or light brown. Fleshy scales are white. Only sevka and small samples are used for planting in culture on a turnip. Larger samples go for pen culture. Mstera onion is quite resistant to downy mildew. The soil is relatively unpretentious. Works well in the northern regions.

Myachkovsky onions are cultivated in Myachkovo, Moscow region, from where it spread beyond last years and to other areas. Forms a very large bulb of a flat and rounded flat shape. The variety is very productive and relatively undemanding to the soil, but in winter storage has a reduced ductility. With regard to the disease of false powdery mildew exhibits fairly good stability. It has no export value, it is of interest for cultivation at the latitude of Moscow and somewhat to the north for the purpose of marketing in domestic markets.

Planting onions in autumn

When to plant onions before winter

The timing of planting onions is quite certain - planting should be completed 3 - 4 weeks (25 - 35 days) before the soil freezes, that is, before the onset of stable frosts. AT different regions these times may vary. For central Russia, for example, for the Moscow region, a favorable landing time is the period from October to early November. Our weather is unpredictable, sometimes it's cold, then suddenly later "Indian summer" will clear up. So keep an eye on the weather forecast. Orient yourself like this, if the temperature has dropped to + 5 ° C and holds, it's time to plant.

Also, when determining the time of planting a sevka in the fall, many look at the lunar calendar. He will tell you the most auspicious days planting onions for the winter. Definitely should not be planted on a full moon if the weather allows for more work. right time. You can also find out from the lunar calendar when it is better to start fertilizing, which is done in advance, not on the same day as planting.

Where to plant

On the same bed, onions can be grown for a maximum of 2 years in a row, then the place should be changed and returned to the old one after 4 to 5 years. Soils should be light: humus loams or humus-sandy soils. The most luxurious onions can be grown on silt deposits in river valleys, but only warm ones.

Potatoes, white cabbage, corn and others can be onion predecessors.

Important! It is impossible to bring fresh manure under the onion sets, since as a result the plants will form a large leaf mass and loose bulbs that are unsuitable for storage. If you want to fertilize the beds, then use humus or compost. And it is better to bring it under the predecessor.

The area allotted for the autumn planting of onions should be dry, ventilated, stagnant water will cause the onion to simply rot. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure unhindered removal of melt and rainwater to the side, and even better if the site is on a hill, so that high ground water couldn't interfere.

How to plant onions before winter

We cut the grooves at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from each other. We plant sets in increments of 3 to 10 cm to a depth of 3-4 cm. The distance between plants in a row depends on the variety. The larger the bulbs that the variety forms, the greater the distance should be. So the food area will be sufficient.


The planting depth of 3-4 cm is due to the fact that at a shallower depth, the bulbs begin to bulge out of the ground in the spring, exposing themselves. We do not cut the necks of the bulbs.

We fill the furrows with soil and mulch, but do not water. By the way, mulch autumn plantings necessary just before the onset of cold weather. To do this, you can use dry leaves, dry humus, spruce branches, tops of other plants, flower stems, sawdust, pine needles and other material.

In winter, it would be nice to hold snow in the garden so that the onion does not freeze out during severe frosts, more than -20 ° C.

Spring onion care

As soon as the snow melts, we immediately remove the mulching material so that the soil warms up faster. The soil is loosened and in the future it must be loosened after heavy rains and heavy watering. Then you can feed the plantings: add diluted chicken droppings.

The second top dressing can be done no earlier than the leaves appear. And here you can use those drugs that you like to use: antistress agents, immunomodulators and growth stimulants, for example, Plantafol.

How to protect onions from pests

To protect plantings from onion flies, marigolds and calendula can be sown around the garden or even inside it. If you are using chemicals in the fight against the enemy, then remember that you can collect onions for a feather only 7 to 10 days after such processing. You can also sprinkle tobacco dust in the aisles (alone or mixed with lime), this also repels the onion fly. Since there are 2 generations of flies, there should be 2 treatments with an interval of 8 to 10 days.

Important! The first generation of onion fly larvae harms in June, and the second - in July (middle).

As the onion grows on the feather, it is better to take those that have more developed leaf mass, giving the opportunity to grow and develop neighboring, less developed ones. When weeding, you should be very careful not to damage the bulbs with a sharp tool. Wounds on the bulbs contribute to the occurrence of various diseases; such onions are not stored even for a month.

When to Harvest

The signal that the bulbs are fully formed is that the leaves lie down, and the integumentary scales have acquired a characteristic color for the variety, for example, blue or orange, red.
Sometimes the leaves are laid on purpose to speed up the ripening, but we are not in a hurry, are we? So we wait as long as it takes.

We dig out the bulbs very carefully, leave to dry in a ventilated place. Bookmark for storage should be done only after the onion dries well, its leaves and roots become dry.

Important! Immature bulbs or those that have a thick juicy neck are eaten first, they will not be stored.

On the vacant bed, you can plant other vegetables, for example: sow carrots, radishes, turnips, daikon, beets, greens.

The remaining time is enough for them to ripen. Moreover, carrots and beets, for example, are not afraid of light frosts and develop well in cool autumn weather.

In conclusion, I want to note that if in the fall you plant not onion sets, but simply small turnip bulbs, then in the spring you will be unpleasantly surprised, since it will all shoot arrows.

By the way, multi-tiered onions are also planted before winter. This is the name of varieties that are perennial frost-resistant branching plants that reproduce only vegetatively - aerial and basal onion bulbs. best moment for planting a multi-tiered bow - September, the very first days. He then has time to take root, germinate, and also accumulate a supply of the nutrients he needs.

Landing technology is similar to the previous one.

Leek, batun, shallots and other species are also planted before winter. Moreover, onions are planted before winter even in such harsh regions as the Urals and Siberia. True, gardeners there additionally cover the beds with plantings of onions and garlic with spruce branches so that they do not freeze out in a fierce winter.

Ways to plant onions before winter, video

It is very clearly explained which onion is best planted on a turnip in the fall. The secrets of seed planting technology are revealed. The preparation of planting material is explained and the optimal planting dates are determined. Thanks to the author, look!

The best reviews of gardeners

    Keep in mind that compared to garlic, onions have lower winter hardiness, so shallow planting is fraught with freezing, especially if frosts come before snow cover. So that the onion does not freeze, the plantings should be covered. Do this when the first frost grabs the soil (do not rush - there is a risk of damping).

    I use spruce branches for this, but you can also use straw. In the spring, remove the shelter when the soil begins to thaw.
    And I agree with Oleg, the optimal time for planting onions before winter is October, about the 10-20th.
    For me the best varieties onions for planting before winter Arzamassky, Strigunovsky, Stuttgarter Riesen, Danilovsky, Bessonovsky. These are very well-known and popular varieties of winter onions among summer residents.
    I plant a spruce sevok, also called oatmeal.

    I plant onions before winter in October, numbers 5-10. The most optimal landing time.

    When is winter onion planted in the Urals? Who has experience, tell me please. Is it worth it to do it, will it be possible to grow it from a beginner?

Onions are no longer exotic on suburban area On the contrary, it is strange when it is not there. In spite of wide use and popularity, not all gardeners know how to grow it. This is a rather capricious culture and any deviation in agricultural technology leads to a deterioration in the quality of the crop. An excessively "evil" onion grows with a lack of moisture at the beginning of the growing season, a small head is formed during a dense planting and at the wrong depth, non-compliance with crop rotation and violation of the rules of care leads to the development of diseases and affects keeping quality.

Often summer residents get such a harvest, half of which is not stored until the middle of winter, and the other half is suitable only for borscht because of the pronounced sharpness. What features need to be considered in order to properly plant onions and avoid many problems?

Onions love lighted areas and do not tolerate lowlands with heavy waterlogged soils. Good predecessors for him will be cabbage, cucumber and nightshade. These crops do not have common pests and diseases with onions, and since their cultivation is accompanied by the introduction of high doses of organic and mineral fertilizers, then the soil is still quite nutritious.

Also, onions can go after zucchini and peas, but it is undesirable to occupy areas that were previously under carrots, since fresh organic matter is not brought under this crop, and onions require fertile soil. Also, the site after it is released late, you may not have time to prepare it for new landing. You can plant carrots after onions, joint plantings and the close location of the beds are good (they scare pests away from each other).

It is possible to return the plant to its original place no earlier than after 3 years, and with a high incidence of diseases - only after 5 years. Planting an onion on a head in spring should be carried out in loose and moderately moist soil, therefore, in the fall, the site should be dug up on a shovel bayonet, and in the spring it should only be harrowed with a rake and leveled.

If necessary, compost or humus is introduced in the fall and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To neutralize the soil solution on acidic soils add chalk or lime. Plots where fresh manure was introduced are recommended to be occupied with onion only for 2 years.

In poorly heated areas with severe clay soil in the fall, wide ridges are cut, on which landing will be carried out.

When is an onion planted?

The exact dates of disembarkation are determined by the prevailing weather conditions and soil temperature. Onion is a cold-resistant crop, but when planted in cold soil, it will shoot, which will reduce the quality of the crop.

On the other hand, the procedure must be completed when there is still a supply of moisture in the soil, the need for which the onions have at the beginning of growth is great. And the relatively long growing season of this crop does not forgive delay.

Planting material preparation

Planting material (sevok), stored in a warm way(18-20ºC at 60-70% humidity), does not require any procedures to activate growth processes. A week before planting, it is sorted out, discarding dried, sprouted and rotting bulbs, and sorted, dividing into 2-3 fractions.

The smallest fraction (diameter less than 1.5 cm) is recommended to be sown at an earlier date, since it does not give arrows. Sevok from the middle fraction (diameter 1.5-2 cm) gives the best harvest, but on condition that the planting is made in sufficiently warm soil. Large onions (more than 3 cm in diameter) can be used to grow onions for feathers or to get turnips for canning, as they often give arrows, which affects keeping quality.

If the planting material was stored at low temperatures (in the attic, in the cellar, etc.), then 2-3 weeks before planting, it must be transferred to a warm room and dried (the container with the sevka can simply be placed near the battery, but not very close ).

The calibrated seed is heated at 40ºC for 8 hours to destroy the internal infection (you can put it on the battery in cardboard box). Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in hot water for 12-24 hours. Instead of water, you can use a weakly concentrated solution of complex fertilizers.

Immediately before planting, the planting material is treated for 15 minutes with a pale solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (for example, copper sulphate). After processing, rinsing in clean warm water is required.

Some gardeners cut the “tails” of the seedlings to speed up germination. However, this procedure damages the protective barrier and opens the door for infection, so it is better to get by with soaking, which will already halve the time before germination.

Planting technique for onion sets

Shallow grooves are cut on the leveled bed. The distance between the grooves should be 15-20 cm, so that it is convenient to take care of the plants. If the soil is not moist enough, the grooves are shed with water. Onions respond well to the introduction of wood ash and sand into the furrows.

In the prepared bed, you can plant the processed sevok. The bulbs are buried bottom down to the "shoulders", and then sprinkled with earth, so that a 2 cm layer is obtained on top. Surface plantings will give earlier shoots, but it will not work to get a good turnip with this technique.

Sevoc in a row is placed at a distance of 6-10 cm (depending on the variety). Some summer residents advise planting it in a compact “snake” in order to obtain not only bulbs, but also greens from one bed. As the plants grow in a row, thin out, removing the bulbs along with the feather. This method is convenient on a small bed, when there is confidence that it will be thinned out in a timely manner.

How to grow a head from seeds in one season?

Growing onions on a turnip in the Non-Black Earth Region, on Far East and in Siberia it occurs in a two-year culture, i.e., first, sevok is obtained from seeds, from which a turnip is grown the next year. In the southern regions and Central Russia, some sweet and peninsular varieties and hybrids can form a marketable bulb from seeds in one season. To get a turnip immediately from seeds, you need to carry out early spring and winter sowing or use seedlings.

Weather permitting, then onion can be sown at the end of April immediately in open ground. To speed up the germination of seeds, they must be placed in warm water or a solution of growth stimulants for 1-2 days.

Sowing is best done on high ridges. Seeds are sown to a depth of about 2 cm, tape method with a distance between the tapes of 20 cm. Thus, if the ridge is 1 meter wide, then 4-5 rows can fit on it. Seedlings need regular watering and thinning twice. The first time is thinned out a few days after mass shoots, leaving an interval of 2 cm between plants, and the second time - in the phase of 2-3 true leaves with an interval of 6 cm.

In winter, seeds are sown from late October to mid-November. Podzimny sowing is distinguished by an increased seeding rate (3 times) and mulching of crops with peat. Seedlings appear earlier, so the bulb ripens earlier.

Through seedlings, mainly sweet lettuce varieties are grown. Sowing seedlings in a heated greenhouse is carried out in early March. It is possible to grow seedlings at home, but only with sufficient lighting. When sown in nutrient soil, seedlings require only regular watering. Plants are planted in open ground at the age of 55 days (they should already have 3-4 true leaves). To do this, choose a cloudy day or evening. Planted with a row spacing of 25 cm, between plants in a row they stand 6-8 cm.

The best varieties and hybrids

Onions are very sensitive to the length of daylight hours, so for planting, you need to choose only zoned varieties or achievements of local selection. Varieties bred in northern regions, in the south, with a short daylight hours, they may not form an onion at all. When creating your collection of favorites in the garden, include representatives from different groups. Spicy varieties are distinguished by high keeping quality and productivity, semi-sharp and sweet varieties have good taste.

A guaranteed harvest can be obtained by planting old local varieties. In different regions, Strigunovsky, Rostov local, Bessonovsky, Spassky, Mstersky, Pogarsky, Timiryazevsky received national fame. They are regionalized quite widely and are known to gardeners throughout Central Russia and beyond.

Of the widely zoned sharp varieties and hybrids, it is worth noting Golden Semko, Centurion and Stuttgarter Riesen.

Golden Semko - early ripe with a large rounded golden onion, which is formed in one season immediately from seeds; gives a high yield; cultivated in all regions of Russia.

Centurion - a little arrowing hybrid with a medium-early ripening period; bulbs are golden, medium-sized, slightly elongated; disease resistant.

Stuttgarter Riesen - mid-season with large, slightly flattened bulbs.

Peninsular varieties for Central Russia: Zolotnichok, Odintsovets, Sputnik, Myachkovsky 300, Red Baron.

golden - medium early with golden rounded bulbs.

Myachkovsky 300 - early high-yielding with flattened yellow bulbs of medium size; suitable for growing turnips directly from seeds.

Red Baron - early ripening; bulbs are dark purple, rounded, weighing up to 150 g.

Good varieties and hybrids of sweet onions: Exhibition, Ritmo, Comet.

Exhibition - medium maturity with large oval bulbs yellow color; suitable for growing in an annual crop from seeds; has a high yield, but low keeping quality.

Comet - late ripening with white large bulbs; resistant to disease and suitable for long-term storage.

It can be difficult for beginner gardeners to decide which onion to plant on the head. After all, not only taste and productivity are important here, but also keeping quality and disease resistance. Moreover, the same variety in different soil and climatic conditions can show different results. So pick up to 5 different varieties in order to highlight their favorites in 2-3 seasons.

The subtleties of plant care

Young seedlings need regular (1-2 times a week) and moderate watering, followed by loosening of row spacing to restore aeration of the roots. With the beginning of the formation of the head, the frequency of irrigation is reduced, and a month before harvesting they are not carried out at all for the successful ripening of the bulb. However, in case of severe drought, it is recommended to carry out sprinkling with a small amount of water.

Weeds pose a serious threat to seedlings, so weeding must be timely. Hilling of plants and close loosening is not allowed. Weeds in the row are removed manually so as not to damage the bulb with a weak root system.

Many summer residents are advised to carry out one or even two top dressing per season. However, the need for them fertile soils, seasoned with organic matter since autumn, no. On poor soils, the first feeding with liquid organic fertilizers(horse manure, bird droppings, mullein) is carried out about a month after planting. The second top dressing is carried out during the period of turnip formation, using phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To prevent root burns, top dressing is carried out after moistening the soil and before watering.

Dear friends, the May spring sun is warming more and more confidently, which means that it's time to plant onions. We hope that you have already prepared onion sets.

This is the name of a one-year-old onion grown from seeds (nigella) and representing a small onion.

Sevok can be grown independently from seeds or purchased at garden centers and stores.

How to choose sevok

It is important to choose the right quality planting material. Bulbs should not be shriveled, already germinated. In this case, the supply of their nutrients has already gone to the pen, and a good turnip will not work.

Also inspect them for damage and rot, this is important because such a set will not make a good onion head, it will be prone to disease, will not grow well, or even rot.

Here the principle applies: quality is more important than cheapness. It is better to purchase good planting material than discounted, but not meeting these criteria.

Good set small size, dense, with a shiny smooth, whole and tight-fitting husk.

When to plant onion sets outdoors

The most popular month for planting onions is May. Specific dates depend on your climate zone. In central Russia, onions can be planted throughout May, while the spring moisture of the soil is preserved, which the onion respects very much.

When planting onions, it is not even the date that is more important, but the weather conditions and soil temperature. No need to rush to land if the weather is cold and wet. It is necessary to wait for warm days when the soil warms up to at least 15-20 degrees Celsius.

If you rush and plant the onions in the cold ground, then this will not lead to anything good. Although the onion tolerates frost and cold quite well, its character deteriorates because of this. He will certainly take revenge on you and, instead of a good turnip and greenery, he will grow flower arrows for you.

Therefore, it is better to wait for stable warm weather without rain than to be left without a crop. Pay attention not only to the lunar calendar as the ultimate truth, but also to the weather forecast, it will be more accurate.

What to do so that the bow does not go to the arrow

Even before planting, it is important to know why the sevok goes into the peduncle and how to avoid it.

The reason for the fact that the bow shoots is the incorrect storage temperature of the planting material, the lack of adaptation before planting, and the violation of the rules of care.

Let us explain in more detail: onion sets must be stored at positive temperatures, because it is the cold that provokes the onion to create arrows. This is a signal to launch a self-preservation program and give offspring as soon as possible. Therefore, as soon as you plant such a set, it will begin to produce flower stalks in order to give seeds faster.

The key to a large and strong onion turnip is storage in comfortable conditions, without cold stress.

But what if you bought an onion set in a store, and you have no idea how it was stored? No problem. Purchased onions need to arrange an adaptation period.

To do this, two weeks after the purchase, we keep the onion near the battery or in another warm place. And then we store before landing only when room temperature and in the dark, so that it does not begin to germinate ahead of time.

If there is no time to warm up the battery or the heating has already been turned off, then you can do the following: arrange a bow warm bath. In a bowl of warm water (40-45) degrees, spread the onion and leave for 8 hours, periodically adding warm water. Then we take out the heads, dry it thoroughly and store it at room temperature until planting.

For planting on a turnip, choose medium-sized heads, because large ones are more prone to shooting and are best planted on greens. Do not plant in cold soil. For the same reason, watering with cold water should be avoided.

Processing and soaking onions before planting

First of all, when preparing a seed for planting, you need to carefully sort it out. Arm yourself with several containers for sorting.

It is necessary to reject all damaged and small specimens, leaving medium-sized bulbs for planting on the head. Large onions, small and even sprouted ones are suitable for greens. But empty, shriveled, missing - we throw it away.

Next, carefully cut off each dry tail at the crown with scissors. This simple operation will help them germinate faster and better. Well, you need to be afraid that an infection will get into the cut, because the sevok will be treated for diseases before planting.

Should onions be soaked before planting? And what is the best way to do it? Let's figure it out.

To feed the bulb so that it grows large, it is recommended to dilute the complex fertilizer in water (40-45 degrees) and soak the onion there all night. When the sevok is saturated with usefulness, you can proceed to it. protective treatment and landing.

Most popular recipes:

  • Soaking onions in potassium permanganate. We make a strong dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and soak the onions in it for 2-3 hours. After that, they will need to be rinsed under running water so that concentrated potassium permanganate does not damage future young roots. Potassium permanganate prevents fungal and bacterial diseases.
  • Soaking onions in saline. 1 st. l salt diluted in one liter of water, immerse the bulbs in it for 2-3 hours. Salt also prevents decay and disease.
  • Soaking in blue vitriol. 1 tsp of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, for 10-15 minutes. blue vitriol disinfects seedlings and protects them from diseases.

Processing onions before planting with salt, potassium permanganate and ash

On a three-liter jar of warm (60 degrees) water we take 2 tbsp. l with a slide of salt + dark pink solution of potassium permanganate + 2 tbsp. l wood ash. Soak for 2 hours.

Processing onions before planting from pests with birch tar

The most nasty onion pest is, of course, the onion fly. Fortunately for us, she cannot stand the smell of birch tar. And if you want to protect your crops, then it would be useful to soak the onion in the solution as well: 1 tbsp. l. tar in a liter of water for 10-15 minutes.

With the same solution, you can additionally shed plantings during the growing season.

Onion planting and care in the open field

As we know, onions cannot be planted in the same place where an onion bed was also located last year. The probability of diseases in this case greatly increases, and such landings should be avoided.

Choose a place where tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, legumes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage were previously planted. The earth after them retains its nutritional value, and this is necessary for the onion to grow a good turnip. Onions and carrots have good neighborly relations, they scare away each other's pests, so you can plant them side by side.

He also prefers that the soil is not heavy, loose and nutritious. Places likes bright, with good drainage without stagnant moisture.

Better prepare for the future onion patch in advance in the fall, it is good to loosen the ground and add humus and compost. In the spring, one to two weeks before planting, we loosen the soil and spill it with organic humic fertilizers. Will do.

Planting an onion on a turnip (per head)

We prepare grooves about 8-10 cm deep. The distance between them is at least 15 cm.

Spill them with a disinfectant solution. You can use both powder (1 tsp per 10 liters of water) and paste (1 tbsp of diluted paste per 10 liters of water).

We plant our seedlings in the spilled grooves at a distance of 10 cm from each other. We sit him down on what is called “on the shoulders”, i.e. not only to cover the roots, but much deeper. This is necessary so that the bulb has good contact with the soil and did not hang out, because. She won't have roots yet.

Sprinkle on top wood ash as a fertilizer and disinfectant. And we fill the grooves with earth.

Planting onions on greens (on a feather)

When we do not have a goal to grow a turnip, but we only want greenery, then to save space, we suggest that you use a bridge landing.

This is when the bulbs are planted one to one very tightly and not very deep. At the same time, landing in open ground is not necessary, you can use a container with earth. Or select a small place in the garden.

Mixed nib and head fit at the same time

When we don’t have a lot of space, but we want to good bow grow and eat greens, then this method will come in handy. We make grooves as usual, but we plant sevok in them in a checkerboard pattern and quite often.

With such a goal that some of these seedlings will grow on a turnip, and some can be pulled through as they grow, not greens and consumed fresh.

Otherwise, the actions are the same as in the classic landing on a turnip (see above).

Onion care

When we organized a good bed, in a lighted place, with nutritious loose soil, we only have to weed it in time so that the weeds do not interfere with the growth of the crop. Watering is carried out after planting once a week.

Onions also need frequent loosening of the soil (between rows and between plantings, especially after rain, so that the earth does not turn into a crust) and top dressing.

At the end of May, it is necessary to feed it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, in mid-June - it already needs potassium fertilizers and ammonium nitrate. For those who prefer to do without chemicals, green fertilizers from weeds and nettles, biohumus and ash are suitable.

Feeding is also effective. ammonia: 2 tbsp. l of ammonia dissolve in 10 liters of water, it is necessary to water with such a product on wet ground, and not on dry ground. Therefore, we pre-moisten the beds. Ammonia will drive away pests and nourish your plantings with the necessary nitrogen.

We do this top dressing three times with an interval of 10 days. And you will forget about the yellowing of the onion feather, and the onion fly will not stick its nose into your beds.

So dear friends, there is nothing complicated in growing onions, you will definitely succeed.

How to treat onion flies