Winter sowing of vegetables. What can be planted before winter: varieties of vegetables for winter crops

Autumn is the time for harvesting and preparing for the new season. The volume of spring troubles will depend on how the garden will go into winter. It is for this reason that experienced gardeners never miss the opportunity to carry out as much work as possible in the fall. Prepare the beds, fertilize. And also - to plant some of the crops. What can be planted before winter? And onions, and green, and root crops. There are many advantages to this approach: shoots appear earlier, grow stronger, some crops manage to yield before the activation of their main pests, the yield is obtained two weeks earlier, there is the possibility of re-planting. In this material, we will consider the features of podwinter sowing, as well as recommendations for a number of major crops.

General rules for winter crops

For winter crops, it is not necessary to allocate a large plot of land. If the products are not for sale, but for your table, a garden with a total area of 5-6 sq. m. will fully provide a family of 4-5 people and vitamin greens, and early root crops.

It is better to choose a place for winter crops that is accessible, sunny, without a slope. Since the time to sow will come later (with the establishment of small frosts in the last decade of October, and in the south - November), it is better to prepare the land in advance. Back in August, fertilizer should be applied, the soil should be dug, leveled, and before frost (while the top layer is not frozen yet), grooves should be made.

There is also a rule for seeding rates. Since the risk of loss (loss) of some of the seeds is inevitable, the rate should be increased by 25-50%. Sowing seed must be dry: after sowing, do not water under any circumstances.

Some gardeners do not practice podzimny, but winter sowing. This is also possible in January, February. This method is justified where unstable autumn temperatures can provoke early germination of seeds. However, in this case, it is necessary to have a supply of earth in order to sprinkle the frozen grooves. In the southern regions, this method is replaced by crops in January or February "windows", when the soil thaws, but does not have time to warm up enough to give the seeds growth.

After sowing, in order to better adhere the seed surface to the soil, it is recommended to compact the soil above the furrows. And for insulation - to grind. In winter you need to try to sketch on the ridges of snow. Early in the spring, cover them with a film stretched over arcs - this will allow the earth to warm up earlier, somewhat accelerate the germination and growth of sown crops, and protect the seedlings in the event of recurrent frosts.

1. Dill

Dill seeds sprout already at +3 ° C, so they can be sown only when the temperature is steady. During the day it can be 0 ... + 2 ° С, at night -2 ... -3 ° С.

The seeding depth is 2.5-3 cm. The distance between the rows is 20 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 3-5 g. You can also apply fan sowing on the surface, mixing the seeds with sand, and be sure to mulch on top. Sorts: "Fireworks", "Hercules", "Udalts", "Earlier miracle", "Tenderness", "Preobrazhensky", "Redoubt", "Gribovsky", "Grenadier", "Aurora". "Drummer", "Esta", etc. The dill sown before winter will be ready to eat in mid-May.

2. Parsley

Leaf parsley emerges even at + 2 ° C heat. Its seedlings are free to tolerate temperatures down to -9 ° C. But the seeds do not germinate well, so sowing in winter is more profitable for her, especially in the southern regions. It allows the parsley to buy time and start a more friendly growing season.

The sowing depth of seeds is 1-1.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 20-25 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 0.6-1.5 g. Of the varieties it is better to take those with large leaves - "Kucheryavets", " Bordovician "," Italian giant "," Breeze "," Curly "," Ordinary sheet "," Green crystal "," Universal "," Astra "," Alba "," Esmeralda "," Pagoda "and many others. Sowing of parsley in the winter allows you to collect the first leaves at the end of May. You can also pay attention to the root varieties: "Sugar", "Russian size", "Eagle".

Leaf parsley emerges even at + 2 ° C heat. © Lovefood

3. Cilantro (coriander)

Good for crops in late autumn and cilantro. Its seedlings are not afraid of recurrent spring frosts and freely survive cold snaps down to -8 ... -10 ° С.

The sowing depth of seeds is 1-1.5 cm. The distance between rows is 25-30 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 5 g. Varieties: "Shiko", "Yantar", "Debut", "Alekseevsky 247", "Taiga", "Stimul", "Borodinsky" and others.

4. Salad

It is advantageous to sow lettuce before winter - an early harvest is obtained regardless of whether the spring is rainy or dry. The seeds of this culture tolerate low temperatures well, therefore, sowing is carried out with a steady cold snap, when the thermometer readings drop to -2 ... + 2 ° C.

The seeding depth is 2 cm. The distance between the rows is 30-40 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 0.6-0.7 g. Varieties: "Large head", "Sonata", "Moscow greenhouse", "Vitamin", Gourmet, Berlin Yellow, Rhapsody, Dubachok, Festivalny and many others. The salad sown in the fall is ready for the table already for the May holidays.

5. Watercress

Watercress emerges in just a couple of days and immediately begins to grow rapidly. Therefore, it is impossible to rush to sow this crop for the winter - you need to wait for the frost.

The seeding depth is 1-1.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 10-15 cm, with line sowing the distance is 20 cm between the lines, 50 cm between the belts. Seeding rate per square meter - 3 g. Varieties: "Broad-leaved", "Narrow-leaved", "Curly cress".

6. Salad mustard (leaf)

Mustard leaf or salad is not afraid of frosts, easily tolerates cold snaps to -5 ° C, it must be sown with the onset of the first stable frosts.

The seeding depth is 1.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 25-30 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 2-2.5 g. Varieties: "Red-leaved", "Green-leaved".

7. Spinach

Sowing spinach in winter has two dates. The first is in the last days of September. Plants manage to form a rosette of small leaves, which will hibernate under a snowy shelter. With the arrival of spring heat, they will immediately start growing and after a week and a half from the garden it will be possible to pluck the first vitamin leaves.

The second term is in November-December (depending on the climatic zone), with the onset of stable frosts. In this case, the seeds will hatch already in the spring, which is also not bad, since the culture will give an early harvest.

Sowing depth of seeds 3-4 cm. Distance between plants - 7-10 cm. Between rows - 15-20 cm. Seeding rate per square meter - 4 g. Varieties: "Juliana", "Victoria", "Matador", "Universal "," Progress "," Shirokolistny "," Garant "and many others.

Sowing of spinach in the winter has two dates: in the last days of September and in November-December. © Charlie Nardozzi

8. Carrots

To sow carrots, the earth needs to settle, therefore, the garden must be prepared in advance. Sowing dates begin when the thermometer readings in the region of + 2 ... + 4 ° С.

The seeding depth is 3-4 cm. The distance between the rows is 15-20 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 1 g. Varieties: "Supernant", "Alenka", "Karotel", "Incomparable", "Moscow winter A 515" , "Fun", "Early TSKHA", "Artek", "Canned", "Amstardamskaya", "Vitaminnaya 6", "Nantes-4", "Shantane 14" and many others.

Selective harvesting of root crops will begin from the beginning of June, but you need to remember: carrots sown in autumn are stored worse than during spring planting, so it is better to think over the required volume of production in advance.

9. Beets

It is impossible to rush to sow beets, its seeds are capable of germinating already at + 5 ° С, therefore, the timing of winter sowing should be shifted to a period of stable cooling, - 2 ... - 4 ° С.

The sowing depth of seeds is 3-4 cm. The distance between plants is 5-10 cm. Between rows is 20-30 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is about 4 g. Varieties for sowing before winter must be taken exclusively cold-resistant or marked “resistant to shooting ":" Egyptian flat "," Winter flat "," Darnya "," Winter A 474 "," Thekla "," Cold-resistant 19 "," Bordeaux 237 "," Winter incomparable "," Detroit "," Red ball "and dr.

The first collection of root crops from podwinter sowings of beets can be carried out in late May or early June. But such beets are stored worse than during spring planting, so it is better, as in the case of carrots, to think over the required volume of production in advance.

10. Turnip

Turnips are sown before the onset of stable frosts, about two weeks. In spring, sowing under winter allows it to form before the cruciferous flea begins its attack.

Sowing depth 3 cm. Distance in a row - 10-15 cm, three seeds per nest. Row spacing - 25-30 cm. Seeding rate per square meter - 2 g. Varieties: "Geisha", "Petrovskaya 1", "White Night". Turnip sown before winter will allow to start harvesting in late May or early June.

Turnip sown before winter will allow to start harvesting in late May or early June. © southernexposure

11. Celery

More often, winter sowing of celery is applied to leafy varieties, and any of them is suitable. But even among the root there is a variety ("Kornevoy Gribovskiy"), suitable for sowing in the fall.

The seeding depth is 1.5-2 cm. The sowing is done in a thickened manner. Seeding rate of seeds per square meter - 0.1-0.2 g. Varieties: "Root Gribovsky", "Yablochny" and others.

12. Horseradish

Growing horseradish from seeds is a rarity. Basically, this culture reproduces vegetatively. But, if by seeds, then winter sowing is an excellent choice!

Seeding depth 2-3 cm. Distance between plants - 30-35 cm. Between rows - 50-70 cm. Varieties: "Valkovsky", "Rostovsky", "Atlant", "Suzdolsky", "Latvian".

13. Leeks

They are in no hurry to sow leeks. Its seedlings are afraid of frost, so the seeds are sown not earlier than when the thermometer starts to show below 0 ° C. The method is used mainly in the south.

Seeding depth is 1.5 cm. The distance between plants is 8-12 cm. Between rows - 30-35 cm. Seeding rate - 2 g. Varieties: "Karantansky", "Columbus", "Vesta", "Winner" and others ...

14. Onion sets and nigella

Onions are one of the crops recommended for winter planting, especially in cold climates. This method gives an earlier harvest and makes it higher, since, having an early germination, the crop is less affected by diseases and pests. Planting onion sets - two weeks before stable frosts, black onions - on frozen ground.

Wild oat and the first fraction (bulb size 1.5 cm in diameter) - the best choice for winter sowing, are planted according to the scheme 3 x 15 cm.Sevok (1.5-3 cm in diameter), 3 onions per nest, or compacted ... Bulbs over 3 cm in diameter are seated according to the scheme 8-10 by 15-20 cm.

The planting depth of onion sets is 3.5-4 cm, onion-nigella - 2.5 cm. It is better to take winter onion varieties: "Danilovsky 301", "Odintsovets", "Radar", "Carmen MS", "Stuttgarten Riesen" , "Shakespeare", "Myagkovsky 300", "Ellan", "Buran", "Muzona" and many others. Onions for feathers can be harvested at the end of May, turnips - by the middle of the summer season.

15. Onion-batun

The onion can be sown in three terms per season, but sowing before winter is considered the easiest.

Seeding depth 2-2.5 cm. Distance between plants - 20-25 cm. Between rows - 40-50 cm. Seeding rate - 6-8 g. Varieties: "April 12", "Gribovsky 21", "Salad 35 "," Maisky "and others.

Sowing onions before winter is considered the easiest. © bejo

16. Multi-tiered bow

A multi-tiered onion is not afraid of frosts down to -40 ° C, it is so tolerant of cold. But for this to go into winter, he must already have a root system. Therefore, a multi-tiered onion is planted two weeks before frost.

The thickness of the bulbs is 1.5-2 cm. The depth of their embedding is 3-4 cm. Planting in 2-3 lines. Distance in a row 15-20 cm. Between rows 30 cm. Seeding rate per square meter - 0.3-0.5 kg. Sorts: "Odessa Winter 12", "Likova", "Memory", "Gribovsky 38", "Chelyabinsk Super Early", etc.

17. Garlic

Winter garlic is planted in two ways. The deep planting method is mainly used in cold climates. It is carried out in mid-August and implies the deepening of the cloves by 10-15 cm.The usual method (traditional) is planted two weeks before a steady cold snap, which implies the closure of the cloves by 3-5 cm.Its timing is the last week of September, if it is the middle strip, early November - in the south.

The distance between the teeth is 10-15 cm. The distance between the rows is 20-25 cm. Winter varieties: "Komsomol", "Alkor", "Messidor", "Polessky souvenir", "Spas", "Petrovsky", "Lyubasha", " Herman "and many others.

18. Radish

Radish seeds germinate well even at fairly low temperatures, for this reason, it is impossible to rush to sow them, delaying the moment of planting at the end of November.

Seeding depth 2-3 cm. Distance between plants - 4-6 cm. Between rows - 10-15 cm. Seeding rate per square meter - from 5-6 to 10 g. Varieties: "Lighthouse", "Resistant", " Carmen "," Spartak "," Yubileiny "," Pink-red with a white tip "," Heat "," Zarya "," Hussar "," Greenhouse "," Early crunch ", etc. Radish sown with winter sowing is ready to eat already at the beginning of May.

19. Parsnip

Parsnip is a preferable crop for winter sowing due to the short shelf life of seeds and rather poor germination. Podwinter crops allow stratification of its seed material and increase germination.

Seeding depth 2 cm. Distance in a row - 5 cm. Between rows - 30-35 cm. Seeding rate per square meter - 1.5-2 g. Varieties: "Early Round", "Best of All", "Student" ...

Parsnip sowing in the winter increases its germination capacity. © The Spruce

20. Fennel

Fennel, sown before winter, gives friendly spring shoots. However, this culture is thermophilic, therefore, since autumn, it is more often sown in the south.

The seeding depth is 2 cm. The sowing is thickened. Between the rows - 60-70 cm. With a two-line sowing, 20-25 cm is left between the lines. The seeding rate per square meter is 0.8-1 g. Varieties: "Udalets", "Leader", "Aroma", "autumn handsome" and etc.

21. Sorrel

The depth of the embedment is 1-1.5 cm. The distance between the rows is 15-20 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 1.5 g. Varieties: "Victoria", "Belleville", "Spinach", "Krupnochereshkovy" and many others.

22. Potatoes

Planting potatoes in winter is not traditional, but it does take place, since at a depth of 10-15 cm tubers can perfectly tolerate a drop in temperature even to -10 ° C. With this technique, tubers are selected weighing 100-150 g. They are planted without vernalization. Planting time is the first night frosts, when the ground is still thawing during the day.

Planting method - double beds, to be installed in the spring over the rows of the arc. The width of the beds is 70 cm, the distance between the beds is 80 cm, between the rows in the bed is 45 cm, between the tubers is 25-30 cm. The depth of planting of tubers is 15-20 cm. Planting is staggered. Sorts: "Zdabytok", "Nevsky", "Luck", "Lorkh", "Asteriks".

23. Cabbage

Podwinter sowing of cabbage is not often practiced, mainly in regions with a relatively warm climate. But even for the south, there is a risk in this method - rapidly emerging seedlings can freeze out at unstable spring temperatures. However, there are recommended varieties for sub-winter planting.

White cabbage

Sorts: Dumas, Nadezhda, Blizzard, Zarya, Gribovsky, Sibiryachka, Polyarny K-206.

Redhead

Varieties: "Early Hard Stone", "Stone Head 447", "Gako 741", "Red Early".

Broccoli

Varieties: Monterey, Laser, Calabrese, Caesar, Gnome, Lucky.

Colored

Sorts: "Domestic", "Movir 74", "Guarantee".

Beijing

Varieties: "Khivinskaya 5".

The seeding depth of cabbage seeds is 1.5-3 cm. The seeding rate per square meter is 0.1-0.2 g.

In addition to these crops, before winter, you can sow asparagus, arugula, rutabagas, cucumber grass, Swiss chard, rhubarb.

October is coming to an end, which means it's time for sub-winter crops! And many gardeners managed to plant everything back in September! So maybe we're already late?

How to determine the correct timing for winter sowing? How to plant properly before winter? And importantly: What to plant before winter? These questions haunt many gardeners ... It is especially difficult for beginners to find their way here ... But everyone wants to eat an early harvest and early greens! What to do?

Today we will analyze this topic in detail so that even the most novice farmer does not have any questions! The topic is very interesting and worthy of special attention, so ... Let's go!

What can be planted before winter?

Let's start by choosing an assortment of winter crops! What can you plant in the fall? You are ready?

Are you ready to be surprised? Because I may surprise you, maybe I will make you happy, but almost everything can be planted before winter! Why practically? Because all, but not all! Aha, confused you? Let's figure it out together!

To begin with, let's analyze two concepts of FROST RESISTANCE and COLD RESISTANCE. It is on the basis of these two concepts that we will select our winter assortment! An assortment of what you can plant or sow before winter in the fall in your garden!

Frost resistance is the ability of plants to tolerate temperatures below 0 ° C, low negative temperatures. Morosoresistant plants are capable ofprevent or reduce the effect of low negative temperatures.

Cold resistance- this is the ability of plants to tolerate temperatures slightly higher O ° C. For the majority of agricultural plants, however, low positive temperatures are not harmful. This is due to the fact that when cooled, the enzymatic apparatus of plants is not upset, resistance to fungal diseases does not decrease, and there is no noticeable damage to plants at all.

The degree of cold resistance of different plants is not the same. Many plants in southern latitudes are damaged by the cold, which means they are not suitable for winter crops! The cold resistance of the varieties is different. To characterize the cold resistance of plants, the concept is used temperature minimum at which plant growth stops. For a large group of agricultural plants, its value is 4 ° C.

However, many plants have a higher minimum temperature value and are therefore less resistant to cold. The resistance of plants to cold depends on the period of ontogenesis (individual developmental process). Different plant organs also differ in their resistance to cold. So plant flowers are more sensitive than fruits and leaves, and leaves and roots are more sensitive than stems. The most cold-resistant plants are early sowing.

We know that many plants came to us from the subtropics, so we grow them in seedlings, we grow them in greenhouses, and we pre-harden the seedlings, and generally shake over it ... We'll talk about them a little later ... But for now ...

We make a list of plants for autumn planting, based on their characteristics and features. The main factor here are these two concepts - cold resistance and frost resistance. That is, these are the very plants that we usually plant in the very early spring, mostly, and this is a very decent list!

Let's make an approximate list and you can choose suitable crops from it, I will only list all the possible options - what can be considered as "before winter"!

1. Greens and herbs before winter!

Dill, parsley (root including), onions, cilantro (coriander), parsnips, spinach (preferably perennial Uteusha spinach), all sorts of different salads, sorrel, wild garlic, rhubarb, watercress, mustard, anise, cumin, arugula, asparagus, Swiss chard, all types of perennial onions: chives, slime, shallots, onions (stuttgarten rizen), batun; cyclic salad, celery (both petiole and root), fennel, borago, all types of mint and lemon balm, marjoram, medicinal scorchion, lovage, tarragon, hyssop, creeping thyme, katran (a relative of horseradish, but tastes softer), horseradish, many varieties basil, drugstore gravilat, oregano, angelica officinalis, snakehead, kalufer (balsamic tansy), chervil, coluria (gravillate), fragrant rue, savory, sage - and this is not the whole list, what I remembered ...

2. Vegetables before winter!

Cabbage! Did you know that all types of cabbage, except cauliflower, broccoli and Peking cabbage, are biennial plants? In the first year, they form what we grow it for - a head of cabbage, heads or stems, and in the second year, a flowering stem and seeds! Only we are talking about varieties, and not about hybrids, of course.

What types of cabbage can be planted before winter? Chinese and Peking cabbage - champions in cold resistance! White and red cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, savoy cabbage and broccoli, kohlrabi and collard! As you can see - all types of cabbage!

Radishes, turnips, turnips, daikon, rutabaga, both black and green radishes, potatoes, Jerusalem artichoke, stachis, carrots, beets, celery root, garlic, peas and beans, lentils, chickpeas, flax, sunflowers, garden strawberries, onions leek, physalis, from cereals - wheat, rye, oats, barley ... from siderata - sweet clover, vetch, lupine, mustard, radish, rapeseed, almost everything except buckwheat ... Perhaps I did not remember all the vegetables ... Well, it seems to me a lot ...

3. Flowers before winter!

Pay attention here to all unpretentious annuals: lavatera, calendula, escholzia, kosmeya, niggela, alissum, cornflower, aster, poppy, iberis, godetia, gypsophila, ornamental cabbage, chrysamtema, phlox, matiolla, reseda, cobea, pasiflora, sweet pea, brachycoma, sour. geranium, malcolmia, scabiosa, collinsia, snapdragon, delphinium, carnation, adonis, lupine, nasturtium, hops, Gaillardia, agrostema, calistefus ...

A perennials just need to be planted just before winter: rudbeckia, primrose, euphorbia, lupine, bell, dicentra, oriental poppy, delphinium, geykhera, basulnik, aconite, aquilegia, doronicum, lavender, gentian, lychnis, yarrow, arabis, obrieta, all bulbous (hyacinthion, muscaris, , Pushkiria, Daffodils, Tulips and Crocuses)! further: anemones, irises ... And these are not all flowers! They can be enumerated and enumerated, the brain is tired already ...

What else can you plant in the fall?

4. Fruit trees and bushes and not only fruit trees before winter!

Honeysuckle, gooseberry, currant, red currant (we plant in early autumn!), Apple and pear, plum, chokeberry, raspberry, chestnut, willow, birch, conifers (pine, larch, thuja, Canadian hemlock, juniper, fir, spruce), mountain ash , cherry, mulberry, maple, linden, alder, ash, oak, hawthorn, barberry, clematis, viburnum, cranberry, lilac, dogwood and many others, although many of these can be planted in spring.

Here we have such a not frail list approximately turned out, now you can choose from it the most suitable one for yourself and go ahead - to the garden!

What exactly cannot be planted before winter: cucumbers, cotton, rice, cow peas, velvet beans, beans, corn, eggplant, Sudanese grass, peanuts, sorghum, millet, sesame seeds, tomatoes, buckwheat, watermelon, pumpkin, melon and zucchini, squash, zucchini, amaranth, peppers. ..

But! This is theoretically! In practice winter sowing! This experiment radically changed my attitude towards this whole theory! I realized that there are also exceptions to the rules, such as ! Therefore, today I have set up a few more experiments, the results of which I will tell you about next year!

Tomatoes, in theory, are a perennial plant, they can be transplanted into a pot in the fall and taken home, they of course also have a dormant period, so no one says that they will bear fruit all year round ... They will drop their foliage, stand until spring, and begin to bloom again ! But I consider this torture, mockery, and nothing good will come of it! All the same, the harvest will not be so ...

Landing before winter is another matter! Here, yes - the results even surprised me and undoubtedly made me happy! The plant was stronger, more hardy, I would even say invincible !!!

When to carry out podzimnie sowing of vegetables - how to determine the date?

And this is a very serious question, but the answer to it can never be unambiguous and precise ... What does this mean?

The fact is that each of you must determine this date for himself! It is necessary to learn how to define it! And I'll tell you that the climate is changing on earth, so there is no year after year - this date is always floating! But she swims around October-November! Not in September! Most likely in December, but not in September! The principle applies here - it's better later than before! Why?

Because if you land early "vegetables or herbs before winter", that is, it may turn out that you plant early ... By the way, this year we have a "harsh winter" very early - In early October snow fell (it never melted anymore!) - this is a rarity even for our Perm Territory (usually snow falls only in November and then closer to the end of the month).

For example, it became sharply cold, the temperature can fluctuate for a long time in the range of 0 - -5 ° С, despite the fact that it is still September. And many gardeners rushed to plant garlic and everything else! Autumn is already cold! Suddenly they will be late ...

But do not rush, but you need to look ahead to the weather forecast (I trust Meteonovo - I have never let you down, you can check and add to yourself - just indicate your city there! there is also an agricultural forecast - it shows the approximate temperature of the soil at different depths!), and if you know that it will still be warm (positive temperatures), then this is a reason to stop! It's not time to plant just before winter - not time!

Only after making sure that literally in a week or two there is a steady cold snap, thaws are not expected, then we are going to the garden! For Berezniki, this is just the end of October - November! But not in September!

Therefore, if you plant something ahead of time before winter, the seeds will germinate (many germinate at 0) and will die with the onset of a cold snap! Naturally in the spring you will not get anything from them ...

But if you plant them later, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and will only get stronger - the plants will be strong and resistant to all weather fluctuations! This does not mean, of course, that you can just scatter all the seeds in the snow and wait for the harvest! Everything must be done wisely and consciously!

Yesterday October 25 - I went and planted everything before winter! And garlic, too, just yesterday! Because according to the forecast - a few more days plus 2 - plus 3 - plus 1 and literally in a week it will be stable minus 7 - minus 8, and then it will only get colder! This is how we choose the date for sub-winter landings! Hard? Well, not easy, let's say, because if you are guided by the forecast of unreliable weather sources (those that are constantly mistaken!), Then you can fly ...

Many will now be indignant, they say, how so? the soil is frozen? covered with a crust? ... Yes! And so we must prepare our garden in advance for winter crops! I always take care of this in advance!

Preparing the garden for winter plantings!

While it is warm, do not relax. You need to think carefully about where and what you are going to plant in the fall! What does it mean to prepare? It is necessary to create favorable conditions in the garden, so that only later (often already in the snow) he would come and plant!

For this, we comply! And if you sowed at the end of summer - this is already a crop rotation - and they have already grown significantly in a month, then it is not necessary to cut them off! It is enough to make grooves, on the bottom of which we pour ash and coconut substrate, you can compost (that is, something loose that does not form a crust even when frozen).

Coconut substrate must be prepared in advance so that it dries up a little!

Prepared grooves and that's it! Siderata continue to stand for the time being. After sowing, before winter, they will naturally dry out and cover the soil with themselves, over the winter they will peat! We prepare mulch in advance - what you will mulch with for winter crops! It can be half-over-mature, for example - a great option!

Because the soil is healthy! The soil does not freeze! The soil is always covered, never bare - at any time of the year! The soil is not dug up, which means its structure is carefully preserved and only improves! The soil is fertile, loose, rich in humus and soil animals! The soil always gives us more than we expect with our minimum effort! In a word, everything that I am writing here now works only for the Natural Garden!

If you are farming according to natural principles, even if not so long ago! Let it be only a year or two! You already have a chance to sow a significant part of this list before winter! For example, root crops may not work out, but greens and flowers will grow and delight you! You will save some of the spring time and enjoy early vitamins on your table!

My soil in the country is just a fairy tale! Don't give it up - everything is growing! This is of course the result of many years of work! And yesterday, in addition to the planned plantings, I decided to sow an additional couple of beds! But these beds were already under the snow, green manure grew on them, which went under the snow. I sowed directly in the snow, without preliminary furrows!

She sowed onion seeds (nigella - different varieties, bought in a store along the way), sowed them with carrots, using coconut substrate and straw:

What will happen? The mulch will pereperete over the winter, it is eaten by microorganisms and my worms, and the fertile layer will only become thicker! Seeds of cabbage and others will fall with the melted snow on the fresh, fertile nutrient layer of the soil!

Above, this straw, which I sprinkled, will most likely still remain, now it has covered the seeds, from the wind, from birds, it will lie under the snow and in the spring it may still remain, and in the spring I will cover these two ridges early and the rest are the main ones, where the winter crops implemented by film! The sun will begin to bake, life will boil faster under the film! And literally in a few days - I will put the arcs.

I will stretch the covering material or film on the arcs! What am I talking about now ... In the spring I will show these and all the other beds! How is it growing there ...

I updated the garlic today. I do this every 5 years! Their dung is priceless

It is in Natural Agriculture!

If everything is done wisely!

When you plant with love!

If the soil is dug up, it is depleted, compacted, washed out and eroded, if it is lifeless, it is like dust or like a stone, while always bare - not mulched, clogged with weeds, then there can be no question of any winter crops! Here you must first work hard, at least a year or three, in order to risk sowing something for the winter and expect a result, and get it! And urgently take action - you don't know how and where to start - our site is just for you - everything here is exactly about that! It is about Natural Agriculture! Not sure if you can do it alone - then! And together - we will achieve success only together!

Don't be afraid to experiment! Don't be afraid to be wrong! Take action! Do it! But Think! You always need to be aware of what we are doing, why, to put ourselves in the place of a plant or a worm, in order to understand whether we are doing everything right ?! If I would like these conditions, then I am on the right track! This is how we learn to interact with nature! And she always gives us the opportunity to observe her, understand her and, of course, LOVE !!!

I would be grateful for the response to everyone who is capable! You can help us, we really need your help! Create GOOD - and it will return to you!

The main crop that gardeners planted before winter is winter garlic, and it will be a discovery for many that many vegetables can also be sown in autumn.

In this way, you can get an earlier harvest of vegetables and herbs and free up time in spring for other planting activities.

Experienced gardeners, in order to get an earlier harvest, some of the crops are planted in the fall before winter.

The advantages of planting for the winter include:

earlier harvesting (by about 2 weeks);
saving money on buying early vegetables from the market;
hardening of seeds;
larger fruits;
early germination will not allow pests to spoil the sprouts.

Of the minuses, it can be noted:

the likelihood of spring return frosts that will destroy the seedlings;
the possibility of shooting, where only seeds are obtained, and not fruits;
greater consumption of seeds;
lower productivity;
impossibility of winter storage.

Inexperienced gardeners cannot get a decent harvest the first time when planting green seeds before winter, due to a lack of knowledge and subtleties of autumn planting in open ground.

General sowing rules in late autumn

To plant seeds in the fall, you need to follow a number of rules. It:

landing dates;
choice of location;
preparation of the garden;
selection of seeds;
shelter from the cold.

Attention!

Only the seeds of those vegetables that are cold-resistant and not prone to shooting are planted in the garden before winter.

Seat selection

For planting vegetables before winter, choose a high bed or make it one yourself, in order to avoid spring soaking and rotting of seeds. The soil should be loose and light, clayey heavy soil over the winter is even more compacted and makes it difficult to germinate. After harvesting vegetables, 1-1.5 months before winter sowing:

The garden bed is dug deeply.
Weeds are removed.
The necessary organic (compost and humus) and mineral fertilizers (no nitrogen) are introduced.
Add 100-300 g of lime to reduce the acidity of the soil.
Loosening with a rake.

If the sowing of vegetables before winter will be carried out after the first frost, grooves are made in advance and the ground is covered with a film to prevent them from erosion.

Landing dates

The main link in the chain for a good harvest is the timing of stable cold weather on the territory of residence. Warm and humid days will give the seeds an impetus to germinate, which will lead to the death of the future harvest. Failures of young gardeners associated with non-compliance with planting dates lead to a reluctance to plant seeds of garden crops before winter. So, in the Leningrad region, before winter, planting is done much earlier (by 1.2 weeks) than spicy herbs and greens are planted before winter in the Moscow region with its more southern location and a much less harsh climate. The optimum temperature for planting will be from +3 to -2.

Seed preparation

The seeds of some vegetable crops can be planted before winter, but before that it is necessary to check their quality.

Attention!

Seeds are not soaked during autumn planting. They must be dry.

Seeds suitable for planting before winter:

resistant to flowering and shooting;
pelleted, which will reduce their consumption during planting;
winter hardy.

For autumn planting, the planting density should be increased by 30%.

Table with autumn sowing dates for vegetables and herbs:

Culture name	Variety	Landing dates	Planting depth	Distance between beds
Onion sets	Stuttgarten, Sturon, Carmen	Mid October - early November	4-5 cm	20 cm
Nigella onion	Danilovsky, Strigunovsky, Odintsovsky	—	1.5 cm	20 cm
Garlic	Winter varieties	1.5 months before the onset of cold weather	4-6 cm	15-20 cm
Carrot	Nantes, Losinoostrovskaya, Touchon, Samson, Shantane	At a stable temperature of + 2-3 degrees	2-3 cm	20 cm
Radish	Red giant, Soffit, Mokhovsky, Option	The beginning of November	2-3 cm	10-15 cm
Dill	Gribovsky, Umbrella	—	2-3 cm	15-20 cm
Salads	Berlin Yellow, Emerald, Large Rock	—	1-2 cm	20 cm

Greens and root vegetables

It is difficult to imagine a vegetable garden without greenery growing in it. Every amateur gardener wants to grow vitamins for the table as early as possible. To get spring vitamins right after the snow melts, you can plant greens in the fall. In this case, the seeds:

are quenched;
the plant does not get sick.

In the middle lane, they are planted in the fall in the garden:

Dill;
cilantro;
parsley;
sorrel;
salad.

When planting lettuce before winter, you need to choose leafy varieties, half-cabbage ones may not give the expected harvest.

Vegetable crops that can be planted in the fall include:

cabbage;
carrot;
beet;
radish.

To sow cabbage before winter, choose medium-ripe or late varieties, early for such a planting is not suitable. Among the advantages of autumn planting, it is worth noting:

harvesting 2.3 weeks earlier than when planting in spring;
getting moisture by seeds from the spring melting of snow and sprout quickly;
freeing up spring time for growing seedlings of other crops;
improved taste and juiciness;
resistance to diseases and less losses from pests.

Of the minuses, it can be noted:

greater consumption of seeds;
preparation at the end of summer of the beds for planting;
the need to shelter seedlings from frost in early spring;
the need to accurately determine the timing of landing.

In order to plant beets in autumn, varieties are selected that are intended for autumn sowing and are resistant to shooting. Only a sunny place is suitable for beets; in the shade, they form tough, small roots with less sugar. The bed is prepared for sowing in advance, grooves are made at a distance of 30 cm from each other and a depth of about 5 cm. They are waiting for the temperature to settle from - 2 to +5 degrees. more often than during spring planting. Furrows are covered with pre-prepared soil, mulch in the form of peat, humus, compost is added on top and covered with branches of coniferous trees.

You can also use carrots before winter. Early and cold-resistant varieties are suitable for planting. The preparation of the planting site is done in the same way as for beet beds.

Planting garden strawberries

Also planted in the winter in the garden and garden strawberries. You should not delay with these works, since young bushes should take root and leave strong and healthy before winter. They are engaged in transplanting in late August - early September. The strawberry bed is prepared 2 weeks before planting so that the soil has time to settle. When digging, add compost or humus, ash, mineral potash-phosphorus fertilizers. The distance between the rows during planting is about 50-70 cm, depending on the variety, between the bushes in a row there should be at least 30-40 cm.

Autumn planting of flowers

You can sow not only vegetables, but also flowers before winter. Preparing the land follows the same principle as for vegetables. The difference is in the seeding depth, which depends on the seed size.

Such (one-year):

lavaters;
cornflower;
calendula;
poppy;
matthiola;
mignonette and many other colors.

From perennials, seeds of Gaillardia, bellflower, swimsuit, primrose and other flowers are suitable for autumn planting.

Trees and shrubs

In the garden in autumn they sometimes plant:

apple trees;
pears;
plums;
cherries and other fruit trees.

Benefits of autumn planting:

the tree wakes up in the spring in a new place;
undisturbed roots grow rapidly;
a seedling, planted 2-3 weeks before the onset of stable cold weather, manages to take root and grows quickly in spring.

Therefore, in the middle lane and in the Moscow region, trees are planted in October, and in the northern regions in mid-September.

The disadvantages include the possible freezing of a young tree. This happens for several reasons:

landing too early;
the wrong variety was chosen (a fruit tree seedling, bred for planting in the southern regions, was planted in the northern regions);
during planting, manure or mineral fertilizer with nitrogen content was added to the hole, which will give an impetus to the growth of the seedling and lead it to death in the winter;
deepening of the root collar;
a young tree has dried roots if it was transported with an open root system.

The chances of survival are higher for a seedling with a closed root system.

Attention!

Planting should be done while the plant is dormant.

Shrubs that can be planted before winter:

red and black currants;
gooseberry;
honeysuckle.

The correct approach to the autumn planting of shrubs will lead to a high survival rate of the planting material and to productivity. The benefits of landing at this time include:

the opportunity to buy goods from nurseries at lower prices than in the spring;
the ability to inspect the whole plant, including the roots, if the root system is open;
release of spring time for other work;
the likelihood of successful survival to cold weather and put down new roots;
(or other trees) will result in little or no yield in the first year.

Among the minuses are noted:

damage to young bushes by rodents;
damage to young branches by winds and adhered snow;
a sharp cold snap after heat can destroy a plant that has not had time to take root.

Before planting, a seedling purchased with an open root system is placed in a bucket of water with the addition of Kornevin to allow it to absorb moisture. To plant a bush in the ground, first dig a hole about 30-40 cm deep and 50-60 cm wide. Ash, a handful of superphosphate, humus or compost are added there, everything is mixed. A seedling is placed, the roots are carefully straightened, covered with earth, tamped a little so that there are no voids around the roots. Then the plant is shed by pouring at least 15 liters of water under it. From above they mulch with peat, dust from sawdust, compost. You should not take straw or hay as mulch, they will attract rodents.

There is always work in the country, spring - sowing seedlings of vegetables and flowers, seedlings of fruit trees. Summer - tending crops and harvesting. Autumn - soil preparation after clearing the beds, sowing and planting before winter.

What vegetables to plant in autumn

Onion sets per turnip

Onion sets measure 1-3 cm in diameter, but we plant the smallest, 0.8-10 mm in size. It is in the fall that such an onion set is available (sold in every market), which has a great advantage - a small set does not form flower arrows, the greens from it are weak and small, but the bulbs ripen already at the beginning of July.

Planting pattern: 4-5 cm between bulbs in a row, 12-13 cm between rows.

Plant in late September - early October or early November in southern regions.

The best varieties: Onion sets Carmen, Sturon - they shoot less.

Onions on greens

Planting material - onion selections or large onion sets. The best yield is yielded by a large multi-primordial onion, which has a bulb diameter of 3-4 cm, the greens from it are juicy and tender. It is necessary to plant onion sets in late autumn, 2 weeks before stable frosts, so that the roots have time to bite, take root, but feather growth does not start.

In central Russia, the optimal time for planting onions on greens before winter is the end of September - the beginning of October. Lower Volga region, southern Russia - late October - early November. The depth of planting in the soil is 4-5 cm, then a layer of mulch about 10 cm high from humus or peat, until spring - early spring, mulch is needed. There is no need to water the sown seedlings!

Black onion before winter

Onions are propagated not only by bulbs, but also by seeds, which are black, so this is the name. The peculiarities of sowing before winter is that we do not have the opportunity to soak the seeds and reject those that will not sink (empty ones float up), in addition, the changeable weather in winter will automatically lose part of the crops, that is, the seed material needs to be increased by 15-20%.

Planting dates - roughly the end of October or November, when the ground is already freezing, you can sow under the snow, quite late, even during a thaw in winter, it is important to know that at a temperature of + 2-3 ° C, blackberry seeds begin to germinate, we do not see this ( in warm weather, shoots in 2.5-3 weeks). Therefore, it is necessary to prevent germination in the fall, but in the spring the earlier the onion rises, the better, so it is worth sowing in raised beds (20-25 cm high) - they warm up faster with the spring sun.

Sowing pattern: up to 2.5 cm between shifts, 18-20 cm between rows. If the seedlings are thick, you need to thin out. Sowing depth 1.5 cm.

Crops of black onions in regions with harsh winters need to be mulched with 3-4 cm of humus or peat, it is possible with leaf litter or sawdust.

Varieties: Danilovsky, Myachkovsky, Strigunovsky, Odintsovsky.

Garlic

Winter garlic is planted in the second half of September - early October, or about a month and a half before the onset of persistent cold weather. For planting, we choose large cloves from large bulbs - the larger the planting material, the larger the heads of garlic will grow in the next years.

We divide the head of garlic into teeth on the day of planting, first removing the bottom (its remnants will prevent the teeth from germinating).

Planting pattern: 15-20 cm between teeth in a row, planting depth 4-6 cm, distance between rows 20 cm.

Carrot

Carrots are sown with seeds in spring and before winter, podwinter sowing has a number of advantages, although it is practiced less often - the risks of death of seeds (seedlings) due to unstable weather are too great. The biggest difficulty is to guess the sowing time so that the carrot seeds do not germinate, as well as sow nigella 1.5-2 weeks before frost, when the ground is already frozen and dries up slightly. Reference point - stable air temperature not higher than 2-3 ° С. Seed consumption is 15-20% more to cover winter losses.

Sowing scheme: between seeds 2-2.5 cm, between rows 20 cm, planting depth 2-3 cm.

Beet

Beets, like carrots, can be sown in November, before frosts, but the choice of varieties is very small: they mainly sow cold-resistant beets-19 and Podzimnyaya-474, Bordeaux. The rest of the varieties are shooted from the cold.

Sowing scheme: between seeds about 10 cm, between rows 20 cm, planting depth 2-3 cm.In addition, a layer of mulch 3-4 cm, which should be raked in the spring.

The problem of sowing carrots and beets in winter is the same - unstable weather in winter leads to the fact that vegetables in spring have poor, rare shoots, and they are immediately "clogged" by weeds. Therefore, it is worth increasing the density of crops by at least 15% and considering the feasibility of such work.

Radish

But radish with podzimnym sowing, on the contrary, is often justified - sowing in early November, the harvest ripens by mid-late April, if the spring is long - by May. As in all other cases, there is no exact date for sowing, it is important that the seeds do not have time to germinate. We focus on the time when the temperature is about 0- + 1 ° С. If a thaw is predicted, you need to wait.

Sowing scheme: between seeds about 3 cm, between rows 10-15 cm, planting depth 2-3 cm.In addition, a layer of mulch 3-4 cm (sawdust, straw, leaves, peat), which in the spring needs to be covered with foil or agrospan until the snow will begin to melt.

Unfortunately, many varieties of radish are prone to shooting, preference can be given to the following: Mokhovsky, Soffit, Dungansky, Wurzburg, Red giant, Variant.

Leaf parsley

Before winter, leaf parsley seeds are sown in October-November under frost, although leaf parsley is quite cold-resistant - it germinates at + 2-3 ° C, and the seedlings hold out until it is colder than -7-9 ° C, we need to sow on days such that the seeds sprouted only in the spring. By the way, parsley planted in spring takes a very long time to sprout, grows slowly, so sowing in the winter will seriously speed up the timing of obtaining fresh herbs.

Sowing scheme: the distance between the seeds is 2-3 cm, the distance between the rows is 15 cm, the depth of planting in the soil is about 1.5 cm. More details - "Leaf parsley - growing and care".

Leafy salads, cabbage and watercress salads

Salads germinate well in spring, amicably, grow quickly, but some gardeners sow this culture before winter. Sowing dates: late October - early November, or later, if the autumn is long.

Suitable varieties are mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties: Large cabbage, Emerald, Berlin yellow. Early: Riga, Moscow greenhouse and New Year's is better to sow in the spring in greenhouses or greenhouses.

If you are an enviable owner of a heated greenhouse, then leaf, cabbage and watercress salads can be grown all winter, the choice of variety in this case depends on the possibility of additional lighting. But it is still advisable to choose more shade-tolerant varieties, for example, the cabbage variety Dachnitsa.

Sowing scheme: in rows, with a distance of about 20 cm between them, to a depth of 1-2 cm, sow the seeds with a continuous ribbon, thin out when shoots appear.

Parsnip

This root crop is sown before winter as well as carrots. Seeds are only freshly harvested, parsnips do not germinate well and quickly lose their germination. Germinates at a temperature of + 4-5 ° C, therefore sowing in late autumn, without soaking.

Grades: Student and Guernsey.

Sowing pattern: 10-12 cm between seeds in a row, 20 cm between rows, seeding depth about 3-4 cm.

Physalis

Physalis is a plant that has been undeservedly deprived of attention; a relative of tomatoes has a specific taste. We are interested in the varieties of vegetable physalis - this is Korolek, Gribovsky soil, Moscow early, Large-fruited, Likhtarik, as well as Strawberry Physalis, Peruvian and Raisin Physalis.

Physalis is grown from seedlings in spring, seeds are sown in autumn. Sowing dates - in October - November, in fact, physalis reproduces well by self-sowing - the falling fruits rot, and the seeds sprout in the spring.

Sowing scheme: the distance between seeds is 50 cm for berry (Peruvian) physalis, 60-70 cm for vegetable (Mexican). The distance between the rows is not less than 70 cm. The depth of planting seeds before winter is 1.5-2 cm (in spring 1 cm).

Dill

Dill in our gardens often grows self-sowing - these are practically wild plants, there is not much greenery from them, only umbrellas for picking cucumbers and tomatoes are good. If you need exactly lettuce greens of dill, it is worth choosing varietal, good for winter sowing: Gribovsky, Abundant, Umbrella, Dalny, Grenadier.

Sowing dates for the middle lane: late October and early November, given that dill germinates at + 3-4 ° C.

Sowing scheme: between rows 15-20 cm (depending on the height of the variety), sowing in rows with a continuous ribbon, the excess can be thinned out in spring. Seeding depth 2 cm, cover crops with leaves or straw.

Features of winter sowing of vegetables

The most important thing to know is that if on your site in the fall and spring, during the period of the most abundant rainfall, or in winter the wind blows off the snow, you need to refuse sub-winter crops.

If the fall is very long, do not worry, any winterized vegetables, including radishes, can be sown all winter while the road to the garden is available. Even in December or January, while the temperatures are slightly minus (-3-5 ° С).

The main thing is to prepare the beds in advance, because we will sow practically in the snow, sometimes after the first snow, on hard ground.

After harvesting at the end of summer, when the land is soft and future planting is planned, taking into account, we dig up the soil, removing weeds. If necessary, we apply fertilizers depending on the needs of the crop. For example, carrots do not tolerate organic matter; we do not add humus or manure to its beds.

It is imperative to level the ground, break up large clods and make grooves in advance - on the day of sowing, you are unlikely to succeed - the ground is frozen.

So, the holes have been prepared, you need to stock up on dry earth for sprinkling seeds, fill it in buckets or bags and leave it in a country house or a shed where it will not freeze.

On the day of planting, it remains only to distribute the seeds along the grooves and sprinkle with the harvested earth. If necessary, mulch from above with leaf litter, spruce branches or straw.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn

Autumn also has its own characteristics. All fruit trees and shrubs are sold in two versions - with a closed root system (in containers) and a large clod of earth, and with an open root. In seedlings with an open root, the roots are very much cut, by about 80-90% - such seedlings can only be planted in spring. Moreover, choose carefully - take a closer look at the plant - a seedling freshly dug in the nursery has young buds that are beginning to bloom, if they are not there, you run the risk of purchasing a product not sold in the fall in the spring, which has almost no chance of taking root.

By the way, please note that when buying seedlings in the fall, preparation for winter begins - they must have signs of autumn wilting, yellowing or reddening of the leaves. Do not buy plants with juicy green leaves, without signs of "autumn" - they have not completed the growing cycle, they will die before winter.

Dates of planting seedlings in autumn: end of September - October, depending on the region, two to three weeks before frost. We prepare the landing pits a few days before disembarkation.

In the autumn planting of shrubs (currants, gooseberries), apples, pears and other trees, there is a risk of damage by rodents. There are many methods of protection, the most effective are a plastic mesh around the barrel (the higher the better) or winding the barrel with nylon tights (they are too tough for rodents).

You also have to make sure that the ground under the seedling does not dry out until the very frost. For the winter, the trees need to be insulated. In regions with severe winters, insulation should be carried out in this way: at a distance of about 40 cm from the trunk of the seedling, drive in four pegs, cover with burlap and pour sawdust or leaves into the "well".

In addition, as the snow falls, the seedlings need to be additionally covered with snow and trampled down, this will also help from mice - they make their way only in loose fluffy snow.

A busy summer has passed, the harvest has been reaped, gardening work is practically finished. A restless and beautiful autumn has quietly crept up.

It's time to start the next season, so that in the spring you can rejoice at the first gifts of our garden. After all, every summer resident knows how there is not enough free time in spring - every hour is expensive.

So why don't we make spring work easier for us and carry out our favorite vegetables and flowers.

Sowing before winter suitable for cold-resistant crops. These are those plants whose leaves do not have pubescence (the edge of the leaves protects the plants from the heat).

If these species are planted in the spring, they will sprout after a month.

Thanks to podzimnuyu sowing, we win against time - the shoots of our winter-hardy vegetables will appear earlier (about 2-3 weeks), which means the harvest too.

Seeds planted in autumn will undergo winter hardening and vegetables grown from them will tolerate frost better.

Sowing before winter - for and against

Why do we need autumn troubles at all? Maybe leave everything for the spring?

Well, no, after all, having correctly selected and correctly sowed in the fall, we will get many advantages:

Frost-resistant plants will grow together, they are more robust and hardy.
Vegetables obtained from such crops are more attractive in appearance.
In the spring, we will free ourselves up more time (after all, some of the varieties will already be successfully sown / planted).
Considering that the sowing harvest before winter is harvested 2-3 weeks earlier, on the vacated beds you can have time to grow early ripening types of vegetables.

But is everything so perfect? Of course not. Podzimniy sowing also has "pitfalls".

After all, it is not always possible to guess what winter and spring will be like. If the winter period is prolonged, the soil is compacted, which inhibits the success of germination.

And it is quite difficult to determine exactly the timing of sowing. The modern climate is an unpredictable thing, winter can come suddenly, or it can "please" gardeners with slush.

Therefore, there is a risk of freezing or too early germination of seeds, which will die with the first frost.

But these unpleasant surprises can be ironed out and a great harvest can be reaped.

To do this, you need to know some of the nuances of winter sowing. We will tell you about this.

So, there are seven competent steps of this event:

Step 1. Choosing the "winter tenants" of the garden

What to sow before winter? There are a lot of cold-resistant cultures:

Carrots (Incomparable, Nantes 4, Moscow winter, Vitamin 6, Shantane 2461). The carrot fly is not afraid of the winter carrot (it is not damaged by it). Sowing carrots before winter gives larger and vitamin-rich fruits.
Beets (Egyptian flat, Cold-resistant 19, Moscow winter, Podzimnyaya 474, Losinoostrovskaya 13).
Head salad (Berlin yellow, Red cabbage).
Turnip (small-breeding varieties: Danilovsky 312, Myachkovsky, Strigunovsky).
Spinach (Victoria). Spinach is absolutely not afraid of the cold. Fresh greens can please you with a harvest even in winter (they are harvested from under the snow).
Dill (Gribovsky).
Garlic (purple striped).
Parsley (common leaf, Bordovician sugar root).
Pasternak (Student, Round). In such a culture, seeds can very quickly lose their germination - parsnip sowing under winter will only benefit the parsnips.
Radish (Persistent, Rose Red).
Onions (Ellan, Bessonovsky, Stuttgarten, Arzamassky, Strigunovsky, Danilovsky, Myagkovsky 300). Onion sets, especially small ones (up to 1 cm in diameter), are very difficult to store until spring, they just need to be planted for the winter.

Suitable for winter sowing cumin, fennel, sage, katran, lettuce, rhubarb, sorrel, watercress, horseradish roots, Chinese cabbage, borago (cucumber grass), corn, sunflower.

Have you ever sowed flower seeds before winter? So be sure to try, because their autumn planting has its own advantages - hardening of plants, better seedlings, good growth, resistance to diseases and weather conditions.

The following annuals can be sown before winter: alissum, aster, cornflower, godetia, iberis, cadendula, kosmeya, poppy, nigella damascus, eschsholzia, clarkia, amaranth and some others.

From perennial flowers for winter sowing, seeds of such crops as: Gaillardia, Doronicum, Carpathian and peach-leaved bells, Lychnis, Lavatera, Carnation, Chamomile, Aubrieta, Aquilegia, Delphinium, Primrose, Yarrow, Arabis and others are suitable.

Step 2. Choose a place

We need areas that dry quickly in spring, fairly flat in relief, with good drainage and highly fertile soil.

These should be warm, elevated areas with a southward slope, protected from cold winds by dense hedges or trees.

Choose places where heavy snow does not accumulate. In spring, it will thaw for a long time and can flood crops.

Advice. If the selected site is located in a lowland (or with high groundwater), make the beds raised (30-40 cm high). Ideally, the height of the beds should be up to 15 cm (except for sandy soils, sandstone beds are made a little higher).

Step 3. Determine the timing

It is better to be late with sowing before winter than to hurry. The main condition for such seeding is that the plants do not germinate in the fall.

The best time for sub-winter planting is when the soil temperature drops to + 3 ° C (at a depth of about 5 cm), when warming is no longer expected.

In this case, the air temperature should be about 0 ° C. The most optimal time: a week and a half before the onset of cold weather.

In the conditions of the central Non-Black Earth Region (the European part of Russia), such a period begins in mid-October and lasts until early November (in the northern regions, two weeks later, in the south from mid-November to early December).

It is very important not to miss these days, it is during this period that the seeds planted for the winter will not be able to germinate in the fall and will wait in the beds for the onset of spring.

If you hurry, the seeds will begin to germinate in the fall and die with the onset of cold weather.

Step 4. Prepare the beds

We need to prepare the soil in advance, even in warm weather (September-October).

For sowing before winter, more stringent requirements are imposed on the soil than for spring sowing.

♦ Regular garden bed. We will use it for winter sowing in the southern regions of vegetables and herbs:

After harvesting, the soil must be carefully dug up, large clods of soil must be broken.
If it is very dry, water the earth. The water will wake up the dormant weeds, and they will make themselves felt.
Completely remove any emerging weeds from the soil.
Apply fertilizer (humus, peat, or compost).
Cold-tolerant crops like loose soil, so we need to add extra baking powder (sawdust or sand) to the soil. The baking powder is mixed with the fertilizer.
Level the ground well with a rake.
Make grooves 1-10 cm deep (the depth depends on the type of plant).

♦ Warm bed. Its arrangement practically does not differ from the usual one.

The only difference is that we need to remove the soil from the trench and lay manure (goat, horse and sheep) in a layer of 30-40 cm.

Pour fertile soil 20-30 cm in height on top of it and water it very well.

Then mulch the prepared grooves.

Decaying natural components will abundantly supply the earth with heat and create the most comfortable conditions for sowing before winter.

Seeds can also be planted in already frozen grooves, covering them with fresh earth on top.

To do this, reserve the soil in advance. Prepare mulch (spruce branches, leafy twigs).

We will cover the beds with mulch on a layer of about 15 cm at the onset of cold weather.

In spring, mulch is harvested immediately after the snow melts (if it is not removed in time, seedlings will be too late and rare).

Advice. If you are just starting to develop a new plot, set aside one bed for winter seeding, plant the rest with siderata until spring.

Step 5. Seed preparation

Seeds for winter sowing are used absolutely dry (otherwise they will start to germinate ahead of time).

They are sown in prepared beds and covered with a layer of 1.5-2 cm of peat, compost or fertile soil.

Many gardeners advise using pelleted seeds (placed in clay tablets). You can experiment with such seeds, because the clay capsule will serve as additional protection for the seeds from hungry rodents.

How many seeds do you need? Here opinions are divided. You can hear from experts that when sowing before winter, the number of seeds should be increased by 30-50%.

But there is also the opposite statement that an excess of seeds will oppress their fellow tribesmen. Therefore, the most optimal solution is to sow seeds in the usual amount (like in spring).

The trick of an experienced gardener. If you did not have time to sow the seeds before the first snow, you can carry out the original stratification with them:

After the arrival of stable cold weather, pack the seeds in linen bags and dig into the ground to a depth of a shovel's bayonet.
At the end of winter, remove them, dry and plant as usual (spring sowing).

Thanks to this method, the seeds will receive additional hardening and various diseases will not be afraid of them.

But this method is only acceptable for parsnips, carrots, caraway seeds, katran, onions (of any kind), lovage, fennel, parsley, dill and tomatoes.

The rest of the cultures do not need stratification.

Step 6. Sowing before winter

On lighter soils, the seeds need to be planted half a centimeter deeper than you do in the spring (taking into account the mulch layer).

It is imperative to mulch - this is a guarantee of the safety of seeds in the cold and getting good and friendly seedlings in spring.

Mulch consumption is up to 4 kg per sq. m. The very depth of planting seeds depends on the type of plants:

Celery: its seeds are very small, so when sowing, they are only sprinkled with compost / peat. If the seeds are deepened into the ground, they may not germinate.
Beets, parsley, dill: 2-2.5 cm
Onion sets (bulb diameter up to 1 cm): 3-4 cm.
Black onion, dill: 1.5-2 cm.
Leeks: 8-10 cm.
Carrots: 1-1.5 cm.
Spinach: 2.5-3 cm.

Advice. If unexpected snow falls, do not be discouraged. Just rake it off and sow before winter, sprinkle the seeds with fertile soil, peat, or compost. They will safely wait out the cold.

Place the seeds carefully on the prepared, frozen beds and sprinkle with warm soil.

Lay a layer of mulch on top of it. There is no need to water the crops - in the spring, melting snow will be enough for the awakening plants.

Seeds moistened in autumn can swell and die in the cold.

The nuances of winter sowing of various crops.

♦ Celery. An odorous vegetable requires a very loose and humus-rich soil. It is necessary to sow it before winter in bright, open areas.

We dig up the soil by 25-30 cm. It is necessary to plant seeds according to the 45x10 cm scheme.

♦ Beetroot. Nutritious beetroot will master well in areas where organic fertilization has not occurred for 1-2 years. Beets love mineral supplements.

In order for our beets to grow healthy, acquire an intense color, plant them for the winter in lighted places, with a deep finding of preferred waters.

If the waters are close to the surface, make beds about 25-30 cm high for it. Avoid clayey, too oxidized soils. Excess acidity can be removed by adding ash, chalk, lime or dolomite flour to the soil.

Beets will feel good after peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, onions and cucumbers.

Dig up the soil 25-30 cm (at the same time add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, ash and humus).

But sowing before winter for beets must be carried out a little later than other crops (late October-early November). Leave a distance of 7-8 cm between seeds. In row spacing about 25-30 cm.

There is a sign among the people according to which it is best to plant beets for the winter - after the leaves have fallen from the cherry.

To further protect the planting from frost, cover it with fallen leaves, sawdust or needles, sprinkle it on top with snow (all this must be removed in the spring, as soon as the snow begins to thaw).

Immediately after that, apply nitrogen fertilizer to the beetroot and cover it with a film (remove it after the first shoots appear).

♦ Carrots. This "vitamin factory" really needs fertile soil, so use plenty of peat, humus or compost.

For her, loamy, floodplain soil, slightly oxidized or neutral, will be ideal.

If the ground is heavy, add sawdust (always semi-decomposed). The site must be protected from the wind.

Avoid planting carrots on slopes in winter. Flood waters will easily wash away plant seeds in spring.

Planting carrots before winter is carried out at the end of November, in slightly frozen ground.

Just before sowing, add superphosphate (if the soil is depleted, apply nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of 15-20 g per m²).

The soil is dug to a depth of 25-30 cm. After sowing, before winter, carrot seeds are covered with earth 1-1.5 cm high, peat / humus is laid on top of 2-3 cm in height. Leave the distance between the ridges 20-25 cm.

♦ Bow. Onion crops love places where carrots, cucumbers, potatoes or tomatoes used to grow.

When preparing the soil for winter sowing of onion crops, use mineral and organic fertilizers.

Make the beds for the onions a meter by two.

Onion "for a turnip". The seeding depth is 3-5 cm, the distance between the seeds is 10-12 cm.
Feather bow. Plant the bulbs of the plant at a distance and depth of 2-3 cm.
Onion sets. Plant to a depth of 5 cm, with a distance of 15-20 cm.

For additional enrichment of the soil before sowing before winter, add ½ a bucket of humus and ¼ a bucket of sand.

Onion crops love space, so plant them in a checkerboard pattern. After planting, the soil should be compacted, and with the onset of cold weather, sprinkle with sawdust, additionally lay dry branches on top.

As soon as the onion has made itself felt by the first shoots, it must be fertilized.

Use superphosphate (30-40 g / m²). Add potassium chloride (10 g / m²) while the bulbs are forming.

In warm spring it needs to be watered 2-3 times weekly (consumption 5-10 l / m²).

As soon as the onions are ripe, watering stops.

After 10-14 days, it must be carefully dug up, cleaned of the ground and left in the garden for 1.5-2 weeks.

Then tie it in braids or trim the dried feathers 3-4 cm from the bulb.

Store our onions in a dry room at normal room temperature.

♦ Garlic. Garlic winter crops are planted with bulbs (air bulbs) and cloves.

Garlic needs a neutral, very loose soil with deep soil water.

Places after cabbage, tomatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, pepper, eggplant are suitable for garlic.

It is impossible to sow garlic before winter in areas where manure was applied in the current year - the plant can give abundant tops and looser heads.

Larger teeth are deepened into the ground by 5-7 cm.

Garlic is planted in bulbs 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, air bulbs are placed in the ground by 2-3 cm.A distance of 20-25 cm is left in the aisles.

To plant garlic before winter, the soil should be abundantly fertilized with compost (15-20 liters per m²), before planting add ash (1-1.5 liters per m²). Or potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (15 g / 10 l of water per m²).

If the soil in your area is too heavy, add sand. For mulching, it is better to use fallen leaves or spruce branches.

Step 7. What to do in spring

In early spring, as soon as our first shoots appear, we thin out the plants. If seedlings appeared too early, the beds can be covered with agrofibre or greenhouse film.

Agrofibre is more successful in using sowing before winter, since it allows air to pass through perfectly (there is no need to fear unnecessary overheating) and such a shelter does not require the installation of a frame.

In the future, we only need to clear the plantings from weeds and water our future harvest.

The sprouts can be fed with organic fertilizers. If you notice that seedlings are rare and there is significant sowing, the plots can be re-sown.

Very often, winter sowing is combined with further spring planting.

Advice. We will not be able to predict good germination. If until May you did not notice the activity of winter sowing, carry out a duplicate sowing. In the south, successful / unsuccessful winter sowing can be judged already at the beginning of April.

Beware of the voracious moles! Protect your plantings from them with repellent granules, smoke bombs or ultrasonic barriers.

Other pests and diseases do not threaten our early shoots.

The problem can be caused by a harmful aphid, but almost always outbreaks of its activity occur at a time when the crop has already been successfully formed.

Now, dear readers, you know how to carry out winter sowing of plants. Maybe these activities will seem very risky to you.

But this is not entirely true, if you carefully consider these simple landing rules and carefully follow them.

Don't be afraid to experiment! Plant at least a couple of beds before winter and you will see how much easier it will be for you in the spring.

And now I propose to watch a short video on this topic.

See you soon, dear readers, and happy landings!