Tool for grouting tile joints. Which rubber spatula for grouting is more convenient to work with? Apparatus for smooth grouting on tiles

It remains to analyze in detail what tool is needed for this.

Grout mixing tools.

The easiest option is to knead the grout in buckets that sell grout with hydrophobic properties. Sold in paper bags.

You can stir by hand, with a trowel. The shoulder blade should be long and rectangular. With this shape of the tool, it is easier to stir and get it from the bottom. A narrow metal spatula is less productive.

Stirring the grout by hand, with a trowel.

Often the videos show stirring the grout with a drill or screwdriver.

Possibly at low rpm. But this is another additional tool. Which needs to be washed, stored, bought, transported. The time gain is small. Except in the case of grouting tiles on the floor in the supermarket.

At this stage, another important tool is needed - a brush for washing the trowel and bucket.

If you leave it without flushing (there are many such advisers) and just, then, knock to sprinkle it, then everything will not fly off. In the new grout (and a different color), pieces of the old dry grout from the bucket will come across.

Cleaning grout tools with a brush and water.

Tool for applying grout between seams.

Spatulas for grouting were considered separately. The best was for grouting epoxy grout Litokol. It mixes well. It is convenient for them to work in corners, thanks to sharp edges. This is the opinion of the majority who have tried it in work. Those who did not do this are still rubbed with a narrow piece of rubber.

Tool for applying grout into the seams.

Tools for eroding grout and cleaning tiles.

For this stage of work, you need to have two tools:

Spatula for cleaning grout from tiles and a piece of soft foam rubber. The beauty of the seam depends on these tools.

The professional spatula is made of high quality plastic and porous cellulose. Another such tool may be called a “rubber-coated plaster grater”.

There are many analogues. You can't call them otherwise. The problem of the designers of such devices is that they do not overwrite the tile and do not understand the main property of this tool. Outwardly copying, they want the product to be a success.

Spatula for removing grout from tiles.

The main difference between such spatulas ( in photo 1-3 ) - soft foam at the base. Often with small pores. It does not collect the cooled grout well and quickly clogs with the mixture.

Also, the foam is quickly erased, but often it doesn’t come to that, because it falls off the handle. If you buy such a tool, then the whole technology is perceived as nonsense.

With a piece of foam rubber - not everything is simple either. If you take the first one that comes across, then it will last for 2-3 working days. It quickly crumbles and turns into a rag. To blur the grout on the tile, with such foam rubber, you have to press harder. This causes cavities in the seam.

I felt the difference by accident, having bought a piece of pink foam rubber at the market. It is more expensive.

Pink furniture foam.

The whole trick is in the density and rigidity of this material.

Foam rubber is made for various needs. The cheapest is packaging or soundproofing. This is the one most often used for blurring. It quickly clumps into a ball and does not absorb water.

You must use pink furniture foam. It has more density and rigidity. It does not wrinkle after repeated squeezing. Such material lasts a year, without loss of quality.

Thickness also varies. From 20mm to 100mm.

Optimal - 40 mm. With a greater thickness, it is necessary to rinse more often and more thoroughly. The grout stays in the middle of the thick piece and hardens. With a smaller thickness - poorly collects water.

Pink foam rubber 40 mm thick.

There is a more dense foam rubber in the furniture industry - blue. There was no such experience.

Below is information about the classification of foam rubber for furniture. There is a detailed explanation of why the packaging material loses elasticity:

If you choose the right tools and use them correctly, then there is no need for a round spatula to form a seam. The latter has a drawback - smearing grains of paint along the seam (for some grouts).

Tools for cleaning tiles from plaque.

This is the last stage in the trowel work. On it, it is necessary to remove the white coating from the lined surface, which appears after the cement grout dries.

You can use a simple dry cloth. It will work. But if I imagine the evolution of this tool with me, then there will be such a chain.

Work gloves > burlap > piece of towel > felt mitt.

The last option turned out to be the most effective. Such gloves are used in welding work. Sometimes they are given the name "welder's gloves". The pile removes plaque well and will never scratch the tile. One glove lasts a long time.

You can also use a more rigid version. Scotch Bright sanding sheets for hand sanding. This material has many options for implementation. It is necessary to use products that do not contain abrasive material.

They are good for removing hardened grout in pits and a deep pattern on the tile.

Felt gloves.

It is necessary to carry out cleaning from plaque after the seam has completely dried.

Dry tiles after grouting.

In this condition, as in the photo, it is too early to wipe the plaque. Seams are raw. By removing plaque, you smear the grout over the tile again. You can, once again, rinse with clean water with foam rubber. The next day, there will be less plaque and it will be easier to remove it. The more dilutions of cement grout with water, the weaker it is.

Epoxy grout tools.

To apply epoxy grout, you can use all of the above tools.

Only, in this case, some become disposable. The pores on the spatula for washing and foam rubber are clogged with a drying epoxy mixture. They lose their performance. With significant volumes, one set is not enough, you have to change.

Tiler's bucket - is it necessary for grouting?

Tiler bucket.

This tool has recently appeared on the Russian Internet market. In Western YouTube, he was seen five years ago.

The main advantage of a bucket for grouting tiles (his know-how) is rollers for cleaning porous material on a grater from grout.

This innovation allows you not to wet your hands and work without rubber gloves. Prevents cement from corroding the skin. There is nothing more useful in that set. There are disadvantages:

The first drawback is the grater that comes in the set. It has a soft foam cover. This is one of the first three options in the photo above.
The second inconvenience is the bucket itself. As a container, it is comfortable and roomy. But this is another container that needs to be moved, stored, bought. The most balanced review of the grout bucket is here:

It is not in vain that there are attempts to combine the idea of cleaning with rollers with existing containers for working with tiles:

Use a small bath for cleaning.
Adapt a simple roller for rolling wallpaper.

A device for squeezing a grater.

Roller for cleaning rubber grater.

Tools for grouting large areas.

A set of such a tool in the video below:

It uses a mixture somewhat thinner than usual. Due to this and repeated, repeated movements on the tile, the filling of the joints is achieved. Still there, the grout is “soft” - it hardens for a long time and is easily washed off with a foam rubber sponge.

The second interesting experience is the use of a “butterfly” mop, with a mechanical spin when grouting large areas of tiles, on the floor. Its advantage is that the foam nozzle is covered with fleecy microfiber, which makes the mop absorb water, but with a hard surface. The flat surface does not wash out the grout in the joints. With such a mop, even quickly hardening mixtures can be washed.

TOOLS FOR REMOVING OLD GROUT.

Sometimes the grout does not match the color or is not applied professionally. In such cases, there is a desire to change it. The method of removing old grout from the joints depends on the type of grout applied.

If the grout is of class “CG2”, with increased resistance to abrasion, then it can only be removed mechanically:

Grinder or DREMEL mini drill. The latter is more convenient.

Tools for removing old grout.

When working with a grinder, it is necessary to pass the cutting wheel along the center of the seam, without touching the side edges of the tiles. Remains at the edges, then easily removed with a knife, with replaceable blades.

Grouts Ceresit, Sopro, - soft. They can be cut with a knife or a special scraper.

If the knife can only scratch the seam, then this is most likely Mapei's grout or similar in class. Scraper disadvantage:

There is a danger of making a chip on the tile.
On hard grout, it is not enough for a long time, and in some cases it is useless.

Knife Disadvantages:

On unevenly laid tiles, chipped corners are possible.
In some cases, it is useless to apply.

Below is a collection of videos (playlist) “How to remove old grout”:

A grout gun is the most convenient tool with which to fill the gaps between trim elements. It is suitable for working with any materials: natural or artificial stone, paving and tile, brick, concrete.

To fill the seams of ceramic tiles use a special gun. This grouting tool helps make the job easier and faster. There are 2 types of pistols:

for grouting stone joints;
for grouting tiles, ceramic (clinker) tiles.

All tools of this type are plunger, equipped with a special simple mechanism for squeezing the mixture. Different models differ in several ways:

material for the manufacture of parts;
color scheme of structural elements;
the volume of the container for the mixture;
the number and type of nozzles included in the package.

Any gun for grouting clinker tiles and stone consists of several elements:

a housing in which a container for the mixture is installed;
one or more nozzles;
plunger mechanism with a piston;
handles.

The plunger mechanism consists of:

metal pusher;
seal in the form of a solid rubber ring;
piston
springs.

Professional and semi-professional equipment is equipped with a mechanism that provides enhanced feed with a slight pressure on the handles. Large models have a welded metal body that can withstand fairly high pressure. All elements of such structures are galvanized, which prevents the development of corrosion. This is an important point, since the gun is in contact with wet environments while working with it.

Nozzles, spouts of tubes and the tubes for the mixture themselves are made of high-strength plastic. It is a wear-resistant material that can withstand prolonged exposure to abrasive grouts. The most popular models are STAYER and POINTING GUN.

Seam filling guns are easy to use. In order to get started, you need to consistently perform a series of simple steps.

fill the tube with grout;
install the tube in the body;
put on a spout if necessary.

After that, the handles of the tool are slowly squeezed, which sets the piston in motion. It is located inside the tube, in its upper part. When the handles approach each other, the spring straightens, which begins to put pressure on the piston, and it gradually goes down. In this case, the mass inside the tube is squeezed out through the spout. This is all you need to know about how a stone and tile grout gun works.

Putty knife

A spatula for grouting is a highly specialized product, represented by several types of this tool. Masters know how important its form is, on which labor productivity largely depends. No less important is the size of this tool for finishing and plastering work.

The most popular among professionals and beginners is a rubber spatula for grouting gaps between trim elements. These tools are made of durable and sufficiently elastic material. Stores sell kits consisting of two, three or more spatulas of different sizes. The color can be anything, but the most common are white, gray and black. The shape is rectangular or trapezoidal.

For a beginner who does not have a skill in finishing work, it is advisable to buy a set of spatulas. In this case, you can try each one in practice and choose the one that is most convenient and provides high labor productivity. The length of the rubber sheet can be from 5 to 50 cm. Such spatulas are suitable for working with any kind of mixtures. But for applying cement grout, the use of a metal spatula is often required.

A round spatula is necessary to form a beautiful line of seams. Outwardly, this tool resembles a piece of elastic and at the same time elastic wire.

Other types of tools

In order to make high-quality grouting, you will need not only a spatula. There is a set of tools and devices, each of which is designed to perform any one task. So, to apply the mixture using the slurry method, you will need a grout grater, on the underside of which there is dense rubber.

It is not difficult to work with this tool: a small amount of the mixture is collected on the canvas and distributed over the tile. Moving the grater diagonally up and down, fill the joints with grout. Collect the next portion of the mixture and repeat the process. This is done until tight seams are obtained.

To give them evenness and smoothness, you will need a special trowel for grouting. An integral accessory for a tiler is a soft foam rubber sponge. It is used to wash off excess mixture and eliminate uneven seams.

Over time, the mixture between the tiles begins to darken, and fungus or mold may appear. This is due to the insufficiently high moisture resistance of the composition used to fill the gaps. In this case, a grout pencil, which is otherwise called a "grout marker", will help out. And outwardly, the tool corresponds to the name: it has a spout, a removable cap and a hollow body, inside of which there is a white or colored antiseptic composition. The tile marker paints the seams in the desired color, masks stains, and disinfects.

Grout trowel Hardy For working with epoxy grouts, with a special hardened surface. To grout tile joints, you will need special tools: a rubber spatula, a mold for joints and a grout trowel (for grouting joints in mosaics and small tiles).

Grout tool in Russia

If the grater failed, then acid cleaners will be needed. In this way, you should not throw away the accompanying documents immediately after purchasing the grout. You can remove this plaque with a piece of clean cloth, gauze, or by additionally wiping it with a clean and well-wrung sponge. If there is adhesive left on the surface of the tile, this can cause difficulty in cleaning it.

Align and smooth the seams with a jointer, a wooden stick with a sharpened end, or the end of a toothbrush. For greater efficiency, fill the joint along its entire length, and not around a single tile. If you will only seal the seams, use a small brush.

Foam grater for tile joints

Wait a few minutes and check again. Then trim the edges of the seams with a sponge. An ordinary porous sponge is perfect for this. After processing the seams with jointing, it is necessary to finally clean the surface. After two passes, the sponge must be thoroughly rinsed. Thoroughly clean the tiles and grouts and let them dry for a few days.

In this case, the colorants penetrate into the porous structure of the upper layer. Gloss on the floor is induced after the grout has completely solidified. You can moisten the surface of the tile with a garden sprayer. With it, you can test a small area of the surface. (Another reason why grout can crack and crumble is too much liquid when mixing the grout.) For example, some tilers pour dry grout over the joints (so that the wet grout in the joints dries faster).

If the grout has set very quickly, wet grout removal will be difficult. In any case, all tile joints must be of the same shape and depth.

When grouting the seam, try to work with the seam, and not tritely smear the grout over the entire surface of the tile. After some time, wet cleaning begins. The liquid during the grouting process will leave the grout, so the material will harden and the seams will be filled with particles of cement and sand. There are many techniques for cleaning grout, some of them quite unusual. With cement grout, such problems will not arise. If you will be sealing both the tile and grout in the joints, use a paint roller. (If this happens, just add a little grout to the joint and level the surface of the joint with the edge of the trowel).

Grouting ceramic tiles

Then, using a sponge, you need to trim the edges of the seams. The stronger the resistance, the more tightly the seam is filled and the stronger it will be. First fill the horizontal, and then the vertical seams. If you have worked with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away.

You should squeeze out a little more grout than you think is necessary, because after the first setting, the grout should be tamped into the joint with a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is greater than the width of the joint or joint. The fact is that the wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. The size of the joint depends on how the edges of the tile are processed. After half an hour, you can remove excess grout.

Thus, we fill all the voids around the tile. Start cleaning when the grout remains in place. (If you move the sponge quickly or jerkily, the grout will leave streaks on the surface of the tiles.)

Recommendations on how to grout the seams on the tiles. What materials are needed?

As a result, the seams should be tightly filled with grout. If the tile is unglazed, the top and side surfaces of each tile must be dampened.

The grout in the joints should be elastic and dense, but not hard. First rinse and wring out the sponge well. Take a tool with an abrasive coating. This is done so that the unglazed surface does not absorb moisture from the grout.

How to quickly grout the seams on the tile: all the subtleties of grouting ceramic tiles

It is removed without difficulty. After cleaning the surface, it must be wiped with a well-wrung sponge. The material in the seams should be dense and elastic, but not hard.

And the appearance of condensed salts on the seam is almost inevitable. Important: such grouts can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, adversely affect the skin and lungs. Usually, all horizontal seams (along the x-axis) are filled first, and then vertical ones (along the y-axis).

Grouting joints when laying ceramic tiles

Do not go to extremes and make too narrow seams. When using square-shaped tiles, it is best to make 3 mm joints. Too wide seams, as it were, visually suppress the tile.

Epoxy grout is quite difficult to work with because of its high viscosity. Classic way. In this case, you must wait 15-20 minutes and allow the seams to dry. To assess the readiness of the surface of tiles and grouts for cleaning, you can use a sponge: wet the sponge as much as possible and then test a small area of the surface of the cladding.

Self grouting of tile joints

The seam must be tightly filled with mortar. Then apply sealant following the manufacturer's instructions. Cleaning can begin when the grout in the joints remains in place. For this purpose, you will need a patch. Over time, the seams treated with this composition will begin to turn yellow under the influence of moisture. Apply the prepared solution evenly on the surface of the tiles (if floor tiles are being processed, you can simply pour the solution out of the bucket) and distribute with a trowel, choosing the appropriate option (for wall or floor).

It is better to start grouting from those parts of the room that the furniture will later hide - you can practice before working in "critical areas". Squeeze out a little more grout than seems necessary. Manufacturers recommend wet cleaning with acidic products such as, say, Detergres. Continue this process until the entire area of the cladding has been completely cleaned, trying to be careful so that again the sponge does not drag the grout out of the joints.

All about grouting tile joints

Cleaning should begin when the grout has not yet hardened, but does not stretch out of the joints.

First, it is better to read them carefully. Grouting tiles begins with the selection of suitable materials for this. If the grout has seized very strongly, then you will have to use an abrasive float to remove it (it does not leave scratches on the surface of the tile).

Using tiles of irregular shape - wider (but not more than 12 mm).

Cement-based grouts differ in the additives that make up the material. It is very important to give all seams the same shape and depth. To do this, using a clean and well-wrung sponge, make a passage about 1 m long, turn the sponge over with the other side and make another pass. For one pass, use the freshly washed side of the sponge. This is a dry mix that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use.

The duration of the interval between stages is determined individually and depends on the conditions of the room and the type of grout. Too waterlogged grout can also contribute to the destruction of the seams. We repeat the procedure several times.

High-quality grout for tile joints in the bathroom - materials and work steps

When all the joints are filled, you will need a trowel to remove excess grout, which should be held at an almost right angle to the surface of the tiles (as shown in the picture). After the pressed grout has set in the seam (this takes about half an hour), the excess should be removed with a stiff brush. This is especially noticeable when dark-colored tinted grouts are used. The sponge must be moved strictly parallel to the seams.

Such grouts are absolutely not suitable for rooms with a high level of humidity. The grout in the joints should be dense and elastic. Do it better before buying.

Tool for painting and finishing works

Use a very damp sponge to evaluate. Before grouting, the joints and the tile itself must be moistened with a small amount of water. We take all reasonable precautions to protect the confidentiality of data.

For effective filling, work along the entire length of the joint, and not around an individual tile. Move the sponge parallel to the seam, carefully removing the protrusions and filling the gaps with a small amount of grout at the tip of your finger (wear tight-fitting rubber gloves for this). Hold it at a 30 degree angle to the tile (as shown in the photo) and apply the grout to the surface of the tile diagonally (as shown in the picture).

How to spread tile grout

A stiff brush will help with this task. If you do this quickly, then stains will remain on the tile. If the tile has even sharp edges, then it is better to make the seams flush with the surface of the tile.

The next step is to inspect the grout joints, level them and smooth them out with a joint (a wooden stick with a sharpened end) or a toothbrush. The best is to fill first horizontal and then vertical seams. You should first try cleaning on a small fragment of the cladding.

It should be held at a 30 degree angle to the tile and grouted diagonally. In this way, use respirators, rubber gloves and goggles while working. This will help keep the seams from warping.

Terence Davis Films
Teryl Rothery
Turner Paintings
Terry Thomas
Grach Fly Savrasov

How to grout the seams between tiles

Rubber spatula for grouting, selection rules

The completed look of the laid tiles will be given by a competent, neatly executed grouting of the tiled flooring. This is the final touch, on which the holistic impression of the work done depends. In order not to spoil the tile joints, to perform a responsible operation successfully, you will need a good tool. Such a device will be a grouting spatula, which will help put an end to the repair work in the bathroom.

The result of the work depends on the correctly selected grouting device, therefore it is important to know the types, features of the use of various spatulas and their care. The tool can become a universal acquisition, both for a novice home master and for a professional professional.

Description of the trowel tool

From the usual metal plastering and painting counterparts, the grouting spatula is made of a one-piece alloy piece of rubber with cut edges, like a knife blade. The plasticity of the material and the ability of the spatula to bend allow:

gently, carefully work with decorative surfaces without the risk of surface damage;
significantly facilitate the work in sealing hard-to-reach places due to the design features.

A distinctive feature of a rubber spatula, in contrast to the painting counterpart, is the large size of the tool, the working canvas of which reaches 80 cm. In work, this factor creates an advantage, as it speeds up grouting on a significant surface of walls or floors. Quite tiny models are often used, up to 4 cm, suitable for processing corners, difficult places.

For convenience, the rubber spatula is equipped with a wooden or plastic handle, which corresponds to the overall lightness, plasticity of the tool, adapted for grouting tile joints with various finishing compounds in the form of cement or epoxy mixtures. Varieties without handles are adapted for grouting in corners, difficult niches and other hard-to-reach areas.

Purpose of the spatula

Rubber spatula in construction and repair work is intended:

for grouting tiles, parquet joints;
removal of residues of the building mixture.

Works are finishing or restoration in nature of varying complexity, so keeping the surface free of scratches or other damage is an important factor. Apply fixtures of different sizes depending on the size of the processed plane.

The small price of a set of several copies of tools allows us to consider them consumables. Rubber is an ideal material in terms of quality characteristics for dense and reliable grouting.

Tool Requirements

The device of the spatula, at first glance, is so simple that it seems impossible to spoil the tool. But practice shows that there are details and properties that affect the comfort and productivity of work:

pen. It must be adapted to continuous work by a convenient design that does not allow hands to be contaminated with grout. The shape of the handle should contribute to exerting pressure on the grout, filling the seam or joint of the tile.
Grouting ceramic tiles: step by step instructions and tips

Sufficient pressure will compact the composition, enhance productivity;
rubber sheet. The shape, density, plastic properties should serve to unhindered collection of excess mixture from the tiles after filling the joints, and the cone-shaped edges should be used to press the grout even in the corners. Surface cleaning must be complete, without the possibility of filling pores, as well as small cracks.

The rubber and rubber blades of spatulas are similar in appearance, but differ significantly in wear resistance and durability. The versatility of rubber lies in its water resistance as well as chemical resistance. Rubber ages quickly and either decomposes or becomes brittle and breaks.

rubber spatula

Multilayer rubber spatula

Types of spatulas

Among the huge variety of spatulas, these devices may vary:

in shape: popularity in the first place is a trapezoidal rubber spatula, followed by a rectangular one, then a rectangular one with a rounded edge, a figure eight and a wedge-shaped one;
by color: the main colors of rubber are black and white. This is not just a color, but a reflection of the stiffness of the canvas. The black version is more rigid. It is more efficient for them to compact the grout without leaving voids. The white version is softer, softer, suitable for finishing joints, as well as tile seams;
by types of handles: Many tools are equipped with a trapezoidal plastic handle. This is a convenient option, but it is believed that the handle-bracket contributes more to efficiency in work. The price of such models is higher. The choice depends on the amount of work, intensity of application. Options for grouting tools with wooden handles or holders are also found, as are solid rubber sheets without handles;
by appointment: trowelling and for jointing: Filling joints with cement or epoxy grout is carried out by the main types of spatulas. The jointing is done with a special round-shaped rubber spatula. This variety was introduced by Kiilto, and then other manufacturers began to add similar models to packages with grout.

The need for such a device for forming a seam has always been, before the masters used improvised means, used a piece of electrical cable with a cross section of 6-10 mm.

It should be noted that a round spatula can be used effectively when the grout is soft, but with a hard grout, the formation of a seam is more difficult.

How to use the tool correctly and in what cases

The technical rubber of the tool is perfectly sharpened: the blade is cut at an angle in production. The location of the chamfer is the working side of the spatula. The tool is ideally suited for difficult areas, adapts to any shape: cylinder, arc, cone. Models without handles of various shapes are needed for grouting joints, joints behind pipes, in arched finishes, niches. The rubber tool is suitable for processing the seams of tiles and decorative stone, sealing the joints of linoleum, parquet, and ceramics. Puttying work with a rubber spatula cannot be carried out. Neither the design nor the handle is adapted to these types of work.

Experts believe that the grouting process with a rubber tool is convenient and can be adjusted to two basic movements: bring the mixture on a spatula to the depth of the seam, and then remove excess from the surface. The stitching gives a complete look, the final relief. Sometimes the jointing is done with the rounded side of a rubber spatula, sometimes with an adapted pen or a separate tool.

The main thing to remember is that grouting is carried out after the tile adhesive has completely dried.

The remains of dry grout are removed from the surface with a clean or new (if any) rubber spatula. If it was washed, then you need to wait until it dries completely. You need to hold the tool almost perpendicularly, do not press hard so as not to remove the applied mixture from the joints of the tile or stone.

About quality, manufacturers and cost

The use of the “right” tool is the key to successful and high-quality work, a professional approach to finishing.

Manufacturers of STAYER, SPARTA, FIT companies, the domestic company Zubr took into account the experience and practice of using spatulas to make them as convenient and versatile as possible.

You can buy the tool at retail, small and large wholesale. Depending on the size and design features, the price per piece averages from 45 to 80 rubles. The cost of sets of three rubber spatulas (40 mm, 60 mm, 80 mm) ranges from 50 to 80 rubles. White rubber is valued higher, by about 10%. Buying a tool in small wholesale (as a consumable) is the most profitable: the price per piece is not higher than 35 rubles.

Rubber spatula Zubr

Rubber spatula STAYER

Tool Care

Inexpensive rubber spatulas can be considered a consumable item and not saved if the repair work is completed and the tool is no longer needed. For those who are professionally engaged in finishing work, it is a pity to part with a convenient device and they will need the following tips:

you can extend the life of the tool by regularly cleaning its surface from building mixtures;
the appearance of microcracks should be monitored, their appearance will interfere with the elasticity of the tool, since the solution will get into the cracks;
the edges of the rubber sheet should be smooth, without notches, cracks. If you want to keep the tool in working condition, you can carefully trim the damaged areas.

Proper, careful use will significantly increase the life of the spatula.

How to make the right choice

When choosing a tool, you should take a closer look at the following details:

the rubber sheet must be sharpened, this is important for grouting;
evaluate the stiffness of the spatula and correlate it with the characteristics of the materials (tiles, stone, grout composition);
the convenience of the handle (if it is wooden, then drying oil is required to extend the service life).

A rubber spatula will help you work successfully and with pleasure, to achieve a beautiful, high-quality result.

After finishing work on laying tiles, mosaics, tiles, gaps remain. To improve the tightness of the surface, protect the base from moisture ingress and give the finish a finished look, tile grouting is performed. Work begins with the choice of material, tool, surface preparation.

For finishing walls and floors, tiles, ceramics, glass, porcelain stoneware, mosaics, clinker, and smalt are used. The gaps need to be rubbed - this gives the coating an aesthetically attractive appearance and allows you to create a monolithic sealed plane. For grouting tiles, various mixtures are used:

Cement. The component composition includes Portland cement, additives, fine sand, polymers. Mixes are easy to use, suitable for the final treatment of tiled surfaces in living rooms, bedrooms.

Epoxy two-component. Two components are used - resin and hardener-catalyst. The finished paste has a short life of up to 60 minutes, so the grout must be worked out immediately.

polyurethane solutions. The composition of the mixtures includes polyurethane resins in the form of aqueous dispersions. In terms of quality and properties, polyurethane sealants are similar to epoxy ones, they have a limit on the thickness of the seam up to 6 mm.

For grouting tile joints, special materials are used if the tile is laid on a complex surface or it is exposed to aggressive environments. In this case, silicone sealants, heat-resistant solutions, compositions with furan resins are used.

Important: A high-quality mixture, in addition to the main binder component, must contain impregnations, additives, minerals, latex or other fillers that improve the performance properties of the composition.

Tools for the job

In the building environment, grouting ceramic or other tiles is called grouting. The task of the master is to evenly fill the gaps with the prepared solution. For grouting ceramic tiles with your own hands, use the following tools:

The solution is mixed with a drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer.

2. To fill the gaps, you need a set of rubber spatulas; for epoxy compounds, a hard rubber tool is taken.

3. Buckets or other containers in which it is convenient to stir the grout, a tank with clean water.

4. Preparatory work and cleaning of tile joints is carried out with a paint brush, a knife, a special solvent.

5. If a two-component epoxy-based composition is used, grout the tile joints with a foam rubber sponge.

Since the substances that make up the mixtures belong to the category of chemical components, you need to work with gloves, it is advisable to use a mask or respirator. To remove excess mass, a dry, lint-free rag should be at hand.

Surface preparation

An important advantage of pastes on any basis is good adhesion to any surface.. This is true when the treated plane is completely free of dirt. Therefore, before applying the grout to the tile, you need to remove dust and debris. How to prepare for grouting:

Some grouts set better on a slightly damp surface, but these conditions do not need to be observed when grouting ceramic tiles with two-component mixtures. In order not to scratch the fragments of the lining, the glue can be removed with a wooden stick, and not with a sharp blade. If you need to grout the seams on a porous surface, the craftsmen recommend pasting the joints on both sides with masking tape so that less grout gets on the tile - it leaves stains on the porous material.

Attention: You can grout the seams no earlier than 8-24 hours after laying the tiles. The time indicator depends on the drying speed of the tile adhesive.

Solution preparation

To simplify the work of grouting tiles with your own hands, you can purchase a ready-made mixture. The shelf life of such formulations is limited, and the cost is an order of magnitude higher. If a dry powder is used, then, depending on the chosen product (on a cement, epoxy, polyurethane basis), you need to mix the components or dilute them with water in the proportion indicated on the package:

Dry grout is diluted with water or hardener in a clean container using a drill with a nozzle.

Related article: Do not know how to update the grout on the tiles in the bathroom? Step by step instructions and best ways

2. The tool must be turned on at low speed and mixed until a homogeneous mass is formed.

It is important to strictly observe the proportions indicated by the manufacturer, otherwise the composition will lose its useful properties. Grouting is carried out on a prepared surface, and 1-2 squares of tiles should be grouted at the same time and the plane should be immediately cleaned of excess mass. Liquid cement mixture can be stored for 12-24 hours, and epoxy compounds are produced within 45-60 minutes.

Application of mixtures

Before grouting the joints of ceramic tiles, it is necessary to withstand the time required for the adhesive to completely harden. The drying rate is affected by the composition of the adhesive, the temperature and humidity of the environment. When using cement grouts, the seams are pre-moistened with water for better adhesion, and epoxy grouts are applied to dry joints. How to grout tile joints:

Gaps can be further treated with an antiseptic or antifungal primer.
When grouting tiles on the floor with your own hands, the mixture is applied with a wide spatula in a diagonal direction.
For planing on the wall, you can use a smaller tool, filling the gaps from top to bottom.
A small amount of the mixture is collected on a spatula and the joints are filled, pressing the solution with some effort.
If the spatula no longer crawls into the joint, then the gap is completely filled with mortar, and there are no voids in it.
After grouting the joints on the floor, a wall with an area of 1-2 m2, they begin to form and joint.
The plastic grout is trimmed with a piece of cable of the appropriate diameter, the excess mass is removed.

When working with epoxy compounds, the seams are formed with a sponge or trimmed with a finger. The tile is immediately cleaned, and when the agent hardens - with a special solvent. If problem areas remain after the jointing (tuberosity, pits), they are carefully sealed with fresh paste.

Note: The grout should be a fraction of a millimeter below the level of the tile. You need to form beautiful joints with a damp, clean sponge so as not to deform the joints with the remnants of the grout dried on the foam rubber.

After grouting the tiles with your own hands in the bathroom or in the kitchen, the facing material must be cleaned of the remnants of the mixture until the paste is completely dry. For this, a cleaning method using a damp foam sponge or a clean cloth is suitable. Excess cement mass is removed 20-30 minutes after filling with mortar. When working with two-component compositions, the surface must be cleaned immediately. Master's recommendations:

Related article: How to wipe the grout from the tile - ways, the best means

3. You can prepare solutions with the addition of lemon juice, vinegar, toothpaste.

After cleaning, carefully inspect the condition of the seams. If necessary, prepare a new portion of the mixture and smooth out the deformed joints. The final processing is carried out the next day - the ceramics are polished with a dry rag and the seams are impregnated with a colorless silicone sealant. It prevents the formation of fungus and mold, additionally protects the tile joints from moisture.

On the video: The best way to grout tiles

Dry cleaning

In the process of grouting in the bathroom or in the kitchen, even with the most accurate application of the paste, excess mass is formed. If cementitious grout is used, residues of the substance can be wiped off with a dry cloth after drying. Some craftsmen grind non-porous tiles with a grater with a rubber nozzle. Epoxy and polyurethane compounds are removed immediately, until the mixture has hardened.

With a dry cleaning method, it is not allowed for particles of dried paste to fall on the seams. The grater works diagonally, constantly cleaning the tool from hardened pieces of grout. Relief tiles are cleaned with an old toothbrush. With a large amount of work and the use of epoxy mixtures, professional builders use electric monobrushes with removable felt discs.

To process the joints of the floor covering, cement or epoxy mixtures are used. Structures steady against mechanical damages, are not exposed to attrition. To increase the service life, after grouting the floor tiles, the joints are coated with silicone sealants - not necessarily, but reliably. The technology for grouting joints on the floor between porcelain stoneware tiles is practically the same as doing vertical surfaces with your own hands:

Prepare tools - a set of spatulas, a drill, a construction knife, a grater, foam sponges, a container for mixture and water, rags.
Remove the fixing crosses, clean the floor, “sweep” with a paint brush.
Prepare the mortar: the cement mixture is added to water or latex, gradually mixing.
If a drill is used, the tool must be turned on at 300 rpm so that there are no air bubbles in the paste.
Before applying the cement grout, the joints are moistened for a better setting of the composition with the floor base.

The next step is to fill the gaps between the tiles. Grouting floor tiles at the seams is done diagonally, and you need to start work from the far corner of the room, moving towards the entrance to the room. You need to rub the mixture with pressure, completely filling the voids between the fragments of the floor covering. After preparing the base, do-it-yourself tile grouting in the bathroom is performed as follows:

A square meter of tiles is moistened at the joints, but there should not be drops of water.

2. The grout prepared for the joints between the tiles fills the gaps, picking up the right amount of the mixture on a spatula.

3. Some masters rub the composition with a special grater, others use a spatula - it depends on the tile (porous, embossed).

After processing one or two squares of the flooring area, the area is cleaned of grout with warm water or special means. For filling with mortar, you can use a construction bag (cone). The right amount of paste is placed in it and squeezed into the gaps, trimming the mixture with a grater or spatula. After 15-20 minutes, you need to walk along the seams with a damp sponge to even out the mixture and complete the jointing. While the composition dries up, proceed to the processing of the next square. If an epoxy material is used, knead the paste in such an amount that the solution is worked out within an hour. The seam is considered ideal if it is recessed relative to the tile joints and has a smooth structure.

Related article: How to remove old grout from tile joints - special and available tools

Differences from grout on the walls

There is no significant difference between how to properly grout the tiles on the wall and on the floor. The technology remains unchanged, and the work is carried out in the same order - drying the tile adhesive, preparing the surface, preparing the mortar, applying the mixture, cleaning the tiles from excess grout. Minor differences in performance:

The composition for the floor should be more resistant to mechanical damage.
On the wall, grouting tiles is done vertically from top to bottom, it is more convenient to work with a spatula.
The flooring is processed diagonally, you can use a spatula, grater, construction bag.

After the mixture has completely dried, you can treat the seams with silicone sealant. A transparent substance reliably protects the grout from moisture absorption and gives the composition dirt-repellent properties. The tube of sealant has a nozzle or brush for easy application.

Grout Width

A controversial issue that professional builders do not give an exact answer to is the width of the grout. You need to be guided by a simple rule - a wide gap between the tiles reduces the solidity and mechanical strength of the coating, but visually gives the surface strict geometric lines. Master's recommendations:

The length of the tile on one side is less than 10 cm - the seam is 1-3 mm.
The size of the material is more than 10 cm on the side - the joint will be 2-8 mm.
For clinker tiles, it is correct to grout 8-15 mm.
Between small fragments of the mosaic, 1-3 mm should be left.
Extrusion tiles with large edges (up to 30 cm) are rubbed with seams 4-10 mm thick.

A large gap (up to 12 mm) is left between irregularly shaped products so as not to draw attention to the geometry of the products. The seams on the floor can be made wider than on the walls. To restore the old coating, you can re-process the joints. This applies to cement grouts, which are prone to cracking if the technology for preparing and applying the mortar is violated. Old seams are treated with sandpaper, dust and grout residues are thoroughly cleaned, covered with a fresh mixture. In some cases, it is more convenient to restore tile joints by staining. To completely replace the sealant, a special cleaner is poured onto the old grout. When the grout softens, it is removed with a joint expander. After cleaning the gaps, it is necessary to grout the ceramic tiles again, adhering to the technology described above.

Finishing tiles using grout mixtures requires accuracy and skill. Not all craftsmen will be able to get a grout of impeccable quality the first time. It is important to do the work gradually, filling in small areas of the walls or ceiling, so that there is an opportunity to correct mistakes. The result of painstaking work will exceed the expectations of the master - after grouting, the tile acquires a beautiful visual effect.

Simple ways to grout tiles (2 videos)

Types and methods of grouting tiles (20 photos)

It would seem that the first rubber spatula for grouting, or even an ordinary gum, is suitable for jointing. But the convenience of the work and the final result will depend on the quality of the tool. If you often do tile laying or just appreciate ease of use, this article is for you. In it I will talk about the tool for grouting tiles, its choice and differences.

In the photo you can see several options for rubber spatulas.

The first spatula is the most popular. It has a comfortable handle, but a small work surface, so work productivity is reduced. Imagine how long it will take to grout a mosaic with such a tool.
The second option has an uncomfortable handle, so it is more difficult for them to work, hands will get dirty.
A third corner spatula will sometimes come in handy when plastering, filling joints between decorative stone, in corners or in figured friezes.
The fourth trapezoidal rubber spatula from Raimondi is better than all the previous options: it has a comfortable handle and a large working surface. In fact, this is an improved version of the second option.
Number 5 shows several options for trowels from the Raimondi catalog. Many master tilers prefer to work with such graters. They have interchangeable tips made of rubber or rubber. Such a tool can easily last even a dozen years, you can see confirmation of this in the photo. But when working with it, you need to carefully squeeze out the rubber from the remnants of the grout, otherwise it will lose elasticity over time. So I switched now to a thick rubber cone. The sharp edge of the grater makes it easy to crush the mixture even in the corners. Rubber is easy to clean and does not clog with the mixture.

A spatula with a rubber nozzle lasted about 10 years. Over time, the side became uneven, so I had to grind it with a grinder.

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Grouting tools

It is also worth mentioning other tools for grouting.

Tools for cleaning tiles from grout

Summing up

See the video for a master class on grouting floor tiles:

Basically, all the presented tools are needed for professional tilers. For one-time work, it will be enough to buy only one spatula-grater with a rubber nozzle.