Why spray trees in the spring? Processing and spraying the garden from pests and diseases When and how to spray fruit trees.

The first time to spray the trees is necessary in March, when the snow has almost melted, and the street temperature has reached + 5 ° С.

We must not forget that along with the release of insects from hibernation, buds begin to swell on the trees. This suggests that highly concentrated spray solutions should not be used, since leaves that have not had time to bloom can be damaged.

After finishing preparatory work proceed to the choice of means for the destruction of rodents, and also decide what concentration it will be.

For early treatment, more concentrated sprays are used to kill pest larvae deep under the bark. However, it is better not to use a strong concentration, even if the leaves have not yet blossomed on the trees. The death of the tree may occur, or burns will appear on the trunks.

The second time it is necessary to process trees in the middle or end of April. This is the period of flowering of pears and apple trees. This time there is no need to remove the bark. The main thing is to protect the inflorescences that bloom during this period. It is not necessary to dilute the product in the same proportion as before. Flowers may die. Instead, use a concentration several times smaller.

The last time to spray trees is necessary in mid-May. For spraying, the same drug is used, in the same concentration as half a month ago. At the same time, the growth results are compared. To do this, take the leaves from different trees and see how much they have become longer. If there is no result, then the second spraying did not work. You can also compare branch lengths. The lack of changes suggests that pests continue to destroy your favorite apple tree.

To avoid problems, you need to spray tree trunks in the morning or in the evening, when there is no wind outside. Check the weather forecast beforehand, otherwise rain can wash away all sprayed preparations before they penetrate the tree bark in the right amount.

Pests that have overwintered in fallen leaves become very active with the onset of the first warm days. At this time, the buds open. They are just a delicacy for them. Insects can destroy not only buds, but also flowers with buds. At the most favorable time for insect activity, you can lose the entire crop.

Spraying preparations are bought in specialized stores, or made independently. If there are few pests, then they are ideal for dealing with them:

• Hemp;
• Hot pepper, capsicum;
• Nightshade.

They will help eliminate beetles from the bark and leaves of the tree.

If among the insects hawthorns or apple suckers dominate, then it is necessary to spray the trees with tansy, dandelion, onions, celandine and even tobacco. Plants can be used in crushed form. They can pollinate plants after watering or past rain, or you can prepare decoctions from them and spray them already.

How to prepare pest control?

Tansy

Cooking method:

Take 700 grams of tansy powder and pour ten liters of water. Let the resulting solution stand for two days. Then boil the resulting mixture for 25 minutes, strain through a strainer, and again add ten liters of water. Trees can be treated with this solution three to four times.

Capsicum to kill butterfly caterpillars

Take one kilogram of pods, pour ten liters of water, insist for two days, then boil the infusion for sixty minutes, and insist again for two days. Pour the concentrate into bottles and seal them tightly. It can be used for a whole season, while adding 80 grams of laundry soap to every ten liters of water.

If there are too many insects, then drugs such as chlorophos, nitrafen, karbofos are used to spray trees. Their use is especially effective for protecting buds.

Spraying is also used to control diseases. One of the most dangerous tree diseases is fungal. The causative agent of the disease hibernates on fallen leaves, after which spores form on it. When there are many spores, they can stick to trees with water droplets and germinate. As a result, a fungus is formed. Fruits affected by a fungal disease may crack, gray-black spots appear on them.

Until the buds begin to bloom, the soil and trees are sprayed with a sufficient amount of nitrafen.

To get rid of scab, use a five percent solution of urea. You can carry out an operation to destroy pests, both in spring and autumn.

If the tree has suffered from black cancer, as a result of which it may die, or not produce a crop, fungicides are used, while cutting out the damaged areas. The most dangerous form of this type of disease is a lesion of the cortex, which is expressed in the form of depressed brown-violet spots.

In order for the bark, branches and soil to be maximally wetted and saturated with the solution, it is necessary to use fine sprays. Large drops easily roll off the tree. As a result, the spray effect is reduced.

Qualitative results can give the following solution:

300 grams of lime and blue vitriol must be diluted with ten liters of water. Infuse and boil as described above. Spraying with the resulting solution is done in early spring, during the first tree care, when the buds on them have not yet blossomed.

During re-treatment - when the leaves begin to fall off, it is necessary to prepare the following solution: dilute one hundred grams of copper sulfate and the same amount of lime with ten liters of water. Repeat the previous manipulations.

In addition, you can use nitrafen, two hundred grams of which is diluted with ten liters of water. Do not abuse the solution.

Use of the drug 30B

First spring spraying carried out before the start of bud break, when the temperature reaches + 4C.

The dose of the drug depending on the type of shrubs:

• 300 milliliters per ten liters of water when spraying currants, gooseberries and raspberries;
• 350 milliliters of the drug per ten liters of water, for spraying plums, apple trees, pears and cherries;
• 350 milliliters per ten liters of water for citrus care;
• 400 milliliters per ten liters of water for disinfestation of shrubs and ornamental trees;
• 170/300 milliliters per ten liters of water for spraying the vine.

The drug is compatible with many chemicals, which makes its use particularly relevant and practically indispensable.

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If someone believes that by planting an apple tree in the country, he is guaranteed to provide himself with a plentiful harvest of apples for the rest of his life, then you can be very disappointed.

Planting a tree (like having a son) is just the first small step on a long journey that you have to go through before the first results of your labors make themselves felt. A tree, like a child, must be taken care of constantly, otherwise diseases and pests can cause irreparable harm to your offspring.

Why you need to spray trees and shrubs in the spring

The beginning of the season, that is, the period when garden trees and shrubs, waking up after the winter cold, begin to accumulate strength to form a fruit mass - this is exactly the time when you need to take maximum care of their protection. That's why treatment of trees in the spring from pests and diseases - milestone in horticultural technology.

In fact, spring is an insidious period. On the one hand, a tree needs time to recover after a long stay in extreme conditions of severe frost, on the other hand, various pests, having also woken up from hibernation, begin to actively feed, with pleasure pouncing on barely blossoming leaves and flowers. It is not surprising that tree care in the spring includes mandatory pest control, because if you do not intervene in the process, you may not wait for the harvest. Of course, it will not be possible to destroy all harmful insects in the garden, although such a task is not set. Much more important to ward off uninvited guests from the garden, to make your trees and shrubs as unattractive as possible for such pests, both in terms of nutrition and in terms of "living".

Another important argument in favor of spring processing garden from pests and diseases is that this period excludes direct impact pesticides on ovaries and fruits (simply because they have not yet formed), therefore, pest control in the garden in the spring minimizes the risk of subsequent poisoning with such drugs as a result of eating processed fruits and berries.

Thus, the main task of spraying the garden in the spring is to prevent pests and diseases that will lie in wait for your site throughout the season, including when the use of fungicides and insecticides will negatively affect the ecological purity of the crop.

Of course, ideally, we all want to show off fruits and berries grown “without chemistry”. However, it is very important to maintain a healthy balance and sense of proportion. Breeders all over the world are struggling to create plant varieties resistant to certain diseases, but it has not yet been possible to develop a species that is completely immune to harmful external influences, and it is hardly possible at all, since nature itself has conceived a scheme in which “everyone eats everyone ". Therefore, we should expect that the fruits of the tree, which are not affected by any pest, will also be inedible for humans, because we are also part of the animal world.

In addition, even if the manufacturer assures you that this particular variety (for example, apple trees) is absolutely not affected by scab, you should treat such statements with a healthy dose of skepticism. And this does not mean that you are being deceived. The fact is that the development of certain diseases, as well as the spread of various pests, largely depends on specific external conditions that are constantly changing. In addition, insects and carriers of infectious diseases tend to mutate and adapt to new realities. No wonder they say that you can not use the same fungicide in the garden - the preparations must be constantly changed to ensure the best result.

The main enemies of fruit trees, against which spring spraying is directed, are caterpillars, butterflies, various beetles and aphids. So, if you do not spray the apple tree at the very beginning of the season, the aphid begins to actively suck the juice from the greens and flowers, and also deforms the bark of the tree, forming ugly growths on it, which then crack and turn into gaping wounds. As a result, the tree may stop growing and die. The same danger awaits pears, plums, apricots, cherry plums and others. fruit trees.

The cockchafer is very fond of eating leaves and ovaries, and its favorite delicacy is the plum tree. While the adult is rampaging on the surface, its numerous larvae strike root system trees, which is especially dangerous for young seedlings. Timely spraying can help rid the garden of such a scourge.

Caterpillars and butterflies are also happy to eat the greens and fruits of apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, so the protection of such trees in the spring will save the future harvest.

The above fully applies to the processing of shrubs (black and red currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.), since it is in the spring that the main measures should be taken to protect all plants from pests and diseases.

How to spray trees in the spring from diseases and pests

Currently, there are many options for how to treat fruit trees from pests in the spring. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

• biological preparations;
• chemicals;
• "improvised" means, which are usually used by ardent opponents of the first two options, considering this method to be safer for health (and, of course, more economical).

So the choice protective agent depends on the personal preferences of the gardener, but, in addition, on the state of the garden (there are cases when the use of radical processing methods is vital in order to save the garden from imminent death).

Biological agents

Biological garden treatments are gaining popularity as a direct alternative to chemicals.

Their effect on harmful insects and carriers of diseases is exerted not by an artificially synthesized toxic substance, but by living organisms (bacteria, bacterial viruses, antagonist fungi, and even insects). Also alternatively used not by itself Living being, and the toxin it secretes (biotoxin).

Such biological agents can be "started" on the site on their own, creating conditions that attract beneficial insects. This role can be performed, say, by mustard, buckwheat, dill and other honey plants planted in the country. However, for reliable protection garden, such preventive measures usually not enough, so scientists have developed numerous drugs based on the action of beneficial organisms. Let's consider some of them.

is an excellent antagonist of a number of pathogenic fungi (including pathogens of scab, various types of rot, late blight and other unpleasant diseases). The plant itself does not experience any harm from the action of Trichoderma, on the contrary, this fungus releases substances that make the plant more resistant to related diseases. Treatment with the drug can be carried out from the moment the buds open and continue throughout the season.

"Planris" is a soil bacteria that protects the garden from powdery mildew, root and root rot, leaf rust, septoria (often affecting raspberries), as well as from lepidopteran pests.

"Pentafage" - a proven way to prevent diseases fruit crops bacterial cancer, lesions of perforated stone fruit spotting. In addition, it is a good prevention against scab and powdery mildew.

"Phytodoctor" inhibits the development of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, in particular, protects fruit trees from late blight, bacterial cancer, root and fruit rot, mold, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt, etc.

protects the garden from such fungal and bacterial diseases like scab, wilting, late blight, root rot, powdery mildew, brown rust and others.

"Mikosan" protects fruit trees from fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Its action is based on covering the organs of the plant protective film preventing the pathogen from infecting them. The drug strengthens the immunity of the tree and helps it cope with the disease on its own. This remedy should be used separately from any other drugs, at the rate of 0.1 kg of the substance per 4-8 liters of water.

"Gaupsin" showed himself as effective remedy against aphids, codling moth, leafworm, cherry and plum flies. Of the diseases, the zone of influence of the drug is powdery mildew, late blight and others. Also, the tool saturates the plant with the nitrogen it needs.

"Bitoxibacillin" also protects the garden well from gnawing and lepidoptera pests ( spider mite, cabbage moth, hawthorn, silkworm and others). Its action is based on a violation of the intestinal function of the insect, as a result of which the larva dies.

"Aktofit" destroys caterpillars, ticks, whiteflies, aphids.

provides protection against various fungal diseases and, like gaupsin, releases nitrogen molecules from the air. Distinctive feature of the drug is its very fast, in comparison with other biological means of protection, action (the active substance reaches the root system of the tree in less than half an hour after spraying).

"Healthy Garden" - another remedy for protecting trees from aphids, codling moth, powdery mildew and other pests and diseases.

The drug "Fitoverm" can help get rid of ticks and codling moth, from silkworm caterpillars, leafworms, scoops, moths, cabbage, etc. - Lepidocide.

Biological products have a number of unconditional advantages: they do not accumulate in the soil, do not harm the plant, and their consumption is much lower than that of other drugs. But there are also some disadvantages. In general, such compounds take much longer to achieve a beneficial effect, while a chemical poison acts much faster.

Important! The use of biological preparations can only be started when the average daily temperature is at least +10° C. At this time, pathogenic bacteria and pests, which are the food of the organisms presented in the biological product, awaken and begin to develop. Otherwise, such biological weapons are powerless, so that the earliest treatment of the garden can be carried out only with the help of chemistry.

Chemicals

Processing the garden with chemicals (pesticides) is considered the most effective way protection of trees and shrubs from diseases and pests.

Did you know? The word pesticide comes from two Latin words: pestis (contagion) and caedere (kill). The concept of "pesticides" includes the following groups of poisons: herbicides - act against weeds, insecticides - against harmful insects, fungicides - against pathogens of fungal diseases, zoocides - against warm-blooded animals (for example, rodents). Most often, pesticides, as their name suggests, kill one or another pest, but there are also sterilizers that cause sterility, as well as growth inhibitors that inhibit the development of insects..

Modern pesticides act very quickly and retain their effect for a long time, but, unlike biological products, they can be addictive to pests.

As mentioned above, treatment of plants in early spring does not pose a risk to human or domestic animal health, since after a certain time after application, most pesticides completely decompose. Another advantage of chemicals is that they dissolve well in water and are mainly sold in packages that are convenient for quick use.

At the same time, unlike biological products, the correct dosage of pesticides plays a decisive role: exceeding the recommended dose can lead to plant damage (burn, reduced pollen viability, destruction of pistils) and environmental damage, while a “lack” provokes the production of harmful pesticides. organisms immune to the corresponding poison.

Important! It is necessary to work with chemicals only following the safety rules as much as possible, since the toxin can harm humans and pets not only when swallowed, but also through the skin and respiratory tract.

It is best to carry out spring treatment of trees and shrubs with special complex preparations, which are a mixture of fungicide and insecticide. In this case, the plant is simultaneously protected from both diseases and pests.

A possible replacement for such a complex preparation is ordinary urea. The first treatment of the garden in early spring is recommended to be carried out with a higher concentration of carbamide (urea), adding a little copper sulfate to the mixture. An added advantage of this composition is its ability to briefly (for a week or two) slow down the awakening of the tree, and as a result, it is protected from unexpected frosts during flowering (this is especially true for plum trees).

After flowering, the trees should be sprayed with a less concentrated solution of urea. Such treatment will save the garden from aphids, leafworms, apple beetles, suckers.

An overdose of urea can lead to burns on the leaf plate, therefore, when diluting urea with water, you need to be extremely careful.

Spring spraying is also popular. fruit plants copper sulfate. The procedure is carried out in early March, before the appearance of the first buds, since this pesticide in the concentration necessary to achieve the effect causes a burn on young leaves. An exception is the situation when it is necessary to disinfect a wound on a tree.

Copper sulphate has a detrimental effect on pathogens of curliness, moniliosis, coccomycosis and clasterosporosis, phyllosticosis, scab and other diseases. The drug is recommended to process plums, pears and apple trees.

Important! Copper sulfate is very poisonous! Therefore, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of the drug or its residues into water bodies or other sources of water supply, as this can lead to the death of fish, animals and create people serious problems with health.

Most often, copper sulfate is mixed in equal parts with lime. The resulting mixture is called Bordeaux liquid and protects the garden from most diseases and pests, while being relatively harmless.

These and other copper preparations such as (copper oxychloride), (copper oxychloride and oxadisil), etc. well protect trees and shrubs from fungal diseases, but they should be used no more than once a year. Therefore, if such spraying was carried out in the fall, in the spring you need to choose a different type of treatment.

Until the buds have blossomed on the trees, you can treat them with iron sulphate. In addition to protecting against pests, this drug has another function - it saturates plants with iron necessary for their proper development, this is especially important for trees with iron-containing fruits, such as apple trees, pears and plums.

"Drug 30 V" during early spring spraying, it is aimed at the destruction of pests that overwinter on the bark of fruit trees. First of all, it is a leafworm, a worm, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and false scales, moths, suckers, fruit mites. The drug forms a film on the bark, which kills the larvae "lurking" inside and destroys the eggs of insects. The disadvantage of the pesticide is a very long decay period, in connection with which the manufacturer warns against using it more than once every three years.

Some summer residents treat the garden with diesel fuel, but this oil product has a very destructive effect on the ecosystem. Therefore, if you do not work at a car depot, where “shoe polish is just heaps up,” use less aggressive chemicals in the garden. But if you still decide to take a chance, then the drug, firstly, can be used very early (even before the kidneys swell), and secondly, its concentration should be minimal, and to enhance the effect, it is better not only to dilute it with water, but also mix it with other chemicals. There is one exception: diesel fuel can really help protect an apple tree or plum tree from rotting, for example, in the event of a fracture.

Folk remedies

For opponents of chemistry, a number of folk remedies used for spring gardening can be recommended. Here, however, it should be noted that many pest-damaging plants that form the basis for spraying cannot physically be obtained in early spring. In this case, it is sometimes possible to use stocks dried from last year, but if the “recipe” suggests the presence of fresh grass, it can be used at later stages, and in early spring the trees can be protected with chemistry. Actually, this approach looks quite logical: until the bud has blossomed, we use a more “heavy” and dangerous protection for the tree itself, and after the leaves bloom, flowering and ovaries appear, we use the “light option” as a “control shot”.

For spraying the garden, pest-intolerant plants such as: field sow thistle (it is recommended to take freshly picked), chilli pepper (you can take dried), Walnut(dry leaves), sweet and bitter nightshade (you need fresh stem tops with leaves, buds and flowers), tansy (dried inflorescences), wormwood (you can take dried), chamomile, Dolmatian, Caucasian (you can take dried), sarsazan (you can take dried shoots), tomato tops (you can use dried or take from last year's compost), garlic (crushed cloves), coniferous needles, bird cherry (you can take dry branches with leaves), leaf-tailed or thick-fruited sophora (dried greens collected during the flowering period) , tobacco (shag) and many others.

The principle of preparing the solution is approximately the same: the raw material is crushed, filled with water, infused and filtered. Proportions, if desired, can be peeped on the network. In addition to herbal preparations, spraying is also carried out with saline or a solution of superphosphate and potassium chloride (the latter helps to get rid of aphids and leaf-eating caterpillars).

Aphids and suckers are also driven out by fumigating fruit trees with tobacco dust (it is poured on straw, which is set on fire in the garden).

In general, we can say that folk remedies for gardening are certainly not as harmful to the environment as pesticides (although some concentrates can burn a tree), but their effectiveness is incommensurably lower.

Therefore, when choosing one or another method of protection, one should proceed from a lot of factors: from the weather to the condition of your garden, the age of the trees, the prevalence in the region and the infestation of a particular area by one or another pest, etc. It is also important to choose the right time exactly when you are going to process fruit trees from pests: in early spring, at the beginning of flowering or after it.

When you need garden treatment from diseases and pests

The timing of the processing of fruit trees from pests in the spring, as we already understood, can be different. Some drugs should be used as early as possible, due to their particular aggressiveness, others can be used even during flowering and after the formation of ovaries.

In any case, competent garden processing in the spring includes four stages:

Only such comprehensive work will make it possible to protect the garden as much as possible, because if in early spring we first of all destroy microorganisms, then in April the main goal of spraying is to protect the buds from fungal diseases, scab, powdery mildew, leafworms, weevils, apple flower beetle and other beetles, and in May - protect the ovaries from later pests.

Features of processing the garden in early spring

The very first cultivation of the garden is considered perhaps the most important. Pests and carriers of diseases that have overwintered in the bark and tree trunks should be preventively destroyed before they have recovered from hibernation and have not begun their dirty work.

The snow has melted, the temperature has risen above zero, it was a windless day - and for work!

We already know how to spray trees in the spring before bud break: we use pesticides, the aggressiveness of which is not yet terrible for a tree, but deadly for pests.

We use Bordeaux liquid for the first spraying at a concentration of up to 3%. You can buy a ready-made kit with properly selected components, or you can make the drug yourself by mixing 0.45 kg of lime and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate in a bucket of water (10 l).

You can also spray the trees with Nitrofen or a mixture of urea and copper sulfate (0.7 kg and 0.05 kg, respectively, per bucket of water). Instead of urea, some gardeners use nitrogen or potash fertilizers, but not chlorine-containing ones. In any case, the fertilizer should be used immediately after dilution, otherwise it will lose all its effectiveness.

Trees and shrubs should be treated completely - from the trunk (especially in places of cracks) and the near-stem circle to the tips of the branches. Before spraying, be sure to thoroughly clean the trunk with a brush.

In addition, you need to keep in mind that different plants do not wake up after winter at the same time, so if you tighten it with the first treatment, especially early trees and shrubs can be burned. So, if apples, pears and plums are sprayed in mid-March, then, say, the growing season for blackcurrants may begin earlier. Accordingly, it is better to divide the procedure into several stages than to try to do it in one day and, as a result, rinse young kidneys with poison.

Spraying trees and bushes before flowering

As it was said, before the beginning of flowering, after the swelling of the buds, and also right on the buds (before they blossomed), the garden is re-treated. If spraying is carried out with pesticides, it is necessary to use a weaker concentration of them (for example, if we diluted the Bordeaux liquid to a 3% solution during the first treatment, now we use 1% solution).

However, it is preferable at this stage to use more modern drugs that can be purchased in specialized stores. For example, by mixing the Horus fungicide and the Aktar insecticide, you will simultaneously protect the garden from both fungal diseases and insect pests. The same mixture can be reapplied after flowering trees. Such drugs as "Fufanon", "Decis" and others have proven themselves well.

The nuances of processing the garden during the flowering period

The question "Is it possible to spray trees during flowering?" is quite debatable. Many gardeners categorically do not recommend doing this, since you can damage the inflorescences and disrupt the entire subsequent process of fruit set.

In general, there is no doubt that during the flowering period it is definitely impossible to use strong pesticides that can harm not only flowers, but also bees actively “working” in a blooming garden.

If, for one reason or another, you did not have time to process the garden before the flowers appeared, then it is still better later than never. Processing the garden during this period will protect the tree from aphids, mites, leafworms, suckers, sawflies and other pests, as well as from many insidious diseases. You can use phosphorus-containing organic preparations, for example, "Fufanon" or "Aktellik". In more warm time use "Fitoverm", "Akarin", "Iskra Bio", "Entobacterin" and other biological preparations, because we remember that they are safe for a tree, but deadly for pathogens and harmful insects.

Treatment of trees and shrubs after flowering

Spraying fruit trees and shrubs after flowering - the final stage spring protection garden from diseases and pests . Its main goal is to destroy leafworm caterpillars, apple codling moth, weevils, moths, aphids, mites and prevent possible garden diseases.

Processing should be carried out no later than three weeks after the trees and shrubs have faded.

There are a lot of modern garden preparations during this period, so there should be no problems with choosing the most suitable one. But what you definitely shouldn’t spray trees after flowering is pesticides in high concentrations. It is better at this stage to give preference to biological products or more gentle chemicals. For the May spraying of fruit trees, for example, you can use the following preparations: Brunka, Blue Bordeaux, Fital, Delan, Saprol, Fury, Fastak, Talstar, Fufanon, "Decis", "Karate", "Confidor", "Apercut", "Koragen".

The fungicide "Skor" recommended for use at this stage is also effective and low-toxic. The choice depends on many factors, in particular, each drug is aimed at combating certain pests, which, in turn, have their own preferences among fruit trees. Therefore, read the instructions and select the optimal mixture.

So, for example, for apricot, the greatest danger is perforated spotting and monilial burn, of pests - aphids, leafworms, moths.

Peach, fading, is often affected by curly foliage and clasterosporium, and it is also often attacked by the codling moth. Plum trees are prone to moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, polystigmosis, among insects their main enemies are mites, aphids, leafworms, codling moths. Cherry and cherry orchards after flowering can affect klesterosporiosis and coccomycosis. Cherry flies are very fond of laying eggs under the skin of fruits at the moment they are set, and these trees also infect aphids and leafworms.

Apple and pear trees suffer from scab and powdery mildew, among pests, apple codling moth, mites, aphids, and sawflies are dangerous for them.

Important! At this stage, it is better to spray the garden in the evening: caterpillars hiding in the foliage by night get out to feast on ovaries and green mass, on which poison is already waiting for them. If the drug has worked, in the morning you will be able to observe a mass phenomenon: a huge number of dead caterpillars hanging from branches on thin cobwebs.

How to properly treat trees and shrubs from diseases and pests

By and large, you can act as you please, but for the safety (of yourself and others), as well as to achieve maximum effect, it is better to follow certain rules and recommendations.

You need to start spraying from the crown, gradually moving down. The final stage is the processing of the near-stem circle (it is very important not to forget this area). With the exception of the last spraying, which is carried out during the active "work" of the caterpillars, it is better to treat trees in the early morning.

For the procedure, you need to choose a calm, dry day. Take an interest in the weather forecast and if rain is expected in the next day, postpone the procedure for a few days. With minimal humidity, the active substance will be absorbed faster and cause less damage to the plant. An exception may be some biological products, which, on the contrary, need moisture, so read the instructions before using them. It is also important to correctly calculate required amount drug, because it reuse after a while it is absolutely unacceptable: you need to dilute exactly as much as you need for today's processing. It follows from the following calculations: mature tree Approximately 5-6 liters of solution “leaves”, for shrubs and young trees - from 0.5 to 1.5 liters, depending on their size.

Finally, to make it convenient to work, you should not lower a broom into a bucket and spray it on a tree - better buy a modern sprayer. Today, manufacturers offer the widest selection of models that will allow you to choose the best option depending on the size of your garden (they differ both in volume and power, and, accordingly, in price). Low-growing trees and young seedlings can be treated with an ordinary plastic spray, and for large gardens It may be worth getting an expensive but very reliable electric pump.

Do not forget about personal safety. It is necessary to clearly understand how toxic the drug you are working with is and, depending on this, already adjust your behavior. In any case, the face should be covered with a respirator or gauze bandage, hair should be covered with a scarf or bandana, and eyes should be protected with goggles. Work with gloves and in general it is better not to leave exposed skin. Keep households (especially children) and pets away.

943 times already
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It is possible to achieve the maximum effect from the use of toxic drugs by having at hand a clearly developed plan of protective measures for each group of fruits, berries and vegetable plants. This allows you to reduce the number of treatments to a minimum.

Processing and spraying apple and pear:

one. . Removal and burning of nests of goldentail and thorn, dry mummified fruits. Pruning dried, damaged and affected shoots and branches, as well as twigs with oviposition of the ringed silkworm.

2. Early bud break (green cone). Against the scab, a “blue spray” is carried out with a 3% Bordeaux liquid. At a temperature not higher than +10, weevil beetles are shaken off the branches onto the litter, followed by their destruction. This operation is done 2-3 times. Against the flower beetle, they are treated with one of the insecticides allowed in the region: fastak (1.5 ml), fufanon (10 ml), ZOV preparation (300-400 ml), calypso (2 ml), aktara (1.2-1, 6 d), etc.

3. Beginning of budding(promotion of inflorescences). Treated against diseases, if "blue spraying" was not carried out. Copper-containing preparations medex (100 g), medex-M (100 g), as well as fast, strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g), abiga-peak (40-50 g) are used. Insecticides novaktion (13 ml), sumition (16 ml), fastak (1.5-2 ml), fufanon (10 ml) and decoctions or infusions of plants are treated against aphids, suckers, mites.

The indicated doses of drugs are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed (2-5 liters of solution per tree).

On a note

It is possible to treat fruit-bearing trees (pome and stone fruits), as well as gooseberries, currants, with chemicals before and after flowering. But no later than 20-30 days before harvesting, as well as after picking fruits and berries. Raspberries, strawberries and strawberries - only before flowering and after harvesting. Cabbage - no later than 20 days before cutting heads, radishes - only after germination. Chemical processing of green and spicy crops, in which the ground part is eaten, is not allowed at all.

4. Immediately after flowering.

They treat blotches, powdery mildew, scab with fungicides topsin-M (10 g), flint (1.5 g), copper extra (20 ml), strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g) , abiga-peak (40-50 g), etc. They remove nests with caterpillars of apple moth and ringed silkworm, shake off fruit ovaries damaged by apple fruit sawfly on the litter. If necessary, against suckers, sawflies, aphids, mites, codling moths, trees are treated with Vertimek insecticide (3-5 ml per 10 liters of water) or preparations but vaktion, sumition, fastak, fufanon, aktara. A pear infected with gall mites is treated with colloidal sulfur. They put trapping belts on the trunks and skeletal branches. In the southern regions, where the apple codling moth gives two generations, trapping belts are inspected every 7-10 days, and in the northern regions - at the end of the season.

5. 10 days after flowering. Spraying the garden against scab in rainy years with phytosporin-M (20 g of powder or 15 ml of liquid preparation per 10 liters of water to treat 100 sq.m of garden area) or fungicides from paragraph 4.

6. 2-2.5 weeks after the end of flowering on late varieties of apple and pear trees. If necessary, they are treated against caterpillars of apple and pear codling moths of the first generation, psyllids and against scab with the above insecticides and fungicides

7.14-18 days after the previous treatment on late varieties. If necessary, the trees are sprayed repeatedly against codling moths, leafworms, mites, aphids and scab.

8. Two applications 14-18 days apart after the previous spraying of winter varieties against the same pests, scab and fruit rot with one of the above fungicides and insecticides. Collect every evening wormy carrion, as well as fruits affected by fruit rot. They are buried to a depth of at least 50 cm.

9. Autumn period before frost. Before the start of leaf fall, the trees are treated with a 5-7% urea solution. Fallen leaves are raked and removed from the garden (in the compost; if affected by scab, then it is better to burn them). Dig up trunk circles. They clean and destroy the old dead bark from the trunks and skeletal branches.

Whitewashing is carried out with a special garden whitewash or paint. These activities are against codling moths, sunburn and rodents.

Processing and spraying plums, cherry plums

1 .Early spring before bud break. Pruning and destruction of branches dried and damaged by pests and diseases, cleaning of old, dead bark on boles and skeletal branches of trees, removal and burning of winter nests of pests and mummified fruits (if this work was not carried out in the autumn-winter period).

2. Swelling of the buds before the start of their blooming at a temperature not lower than +4 "C. Treatment with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid (“blue spray”) against diseases and insecticides (ZOV preparation (300-400 ml / 10 l of water) against wintering stages of mites, aphids and other pests.

3. Before flowering (beginning of budding). Spraying with one of the preparations - a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, abiga-peak (40-50 g), medex, medex-M, azophos, chorus, topsin-M, tercel - against clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and leaf spot. Against leaf-eating caterpillars, sawflies, aphids and mites - insecticides Fufanon, Novaktion, Insegar, Aktara, etc. (doses are indicated above).

4. 5-6 days after flowering. Shaking off on the litter and destroying the ovaries damaged by the larvae of the fruit sawflies. Treatment of trees with insecticides and fungicides against a complex of pests and diseases (see point 4 in protecting the apple tree).

5. Early bone formation. Spraying with insecticides against the plum codling moth of the first generation at the beginning of hatching of caterpillars, as well as aphids, mites and other pests (inseghar - 5 g, sumition - 10-24 ml, aktara - 1.2-1.4 g, etc.).

6. Two same treatments 14-18 days apart from previous spraying late varieties carried out against the plum codling moth of the second generation, aphids and mites in the regions of the Central Black Earth, Volga, North Caucasian and Far Eastern zones. Collection and destruction of fallen fruits upon detection of codling moths.

7. After harvest. Before leaf fall - spraying trees with a 5% solution of urea. Digging trunk circles, pruning branches, cleaning old dead bark on trunks and skeletal branches, raking and removing fallen leaves. Tree whitewashing.

Processing and spraying the garden from diseases and pests - sharing experience

engine oil for cancer

Often gardeners complain about the cancer of fruit trees. I do this: I spread it under the trunk polyethylene film(to then collect and burn the waste). I clean the cancerous wound with a sharp knife to healthy wood and treat it with iodine, and then I lubricate the affected area with used car oil. I have been using this method for many years, including for the treatment of cracks, and I am very pleased with the result.

To increase the winter hardiness and resistance of trees to cancer in August, early September, I apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In early spring, when I do pruning, I always cover the places of cuts with oil paint or garden pitch.

Vitriol will help

The second year pears get sick.

A neighbor planted a Cossack juniper, and it is a carrier of fungal diseases. Therefore, one has to pay Special attention anti-rust pear. In October, I treat trees with copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) and urea (5-7%). Be sure to remove all debris, fallen leaves.

Sometimes the bark of trees is covered with moss. In this case, after leaf fall, I first clean the trunk, and then treat the damaged area with a solution of copper sulfate.

Rust on pear

Another important autumn procedure is the whitewashing of trees, with the exception of young plants. At the same time, I whiten not only the trunk, but, if possible, the branches - the higher, the better. You can prepare the mixture the old fashioned way: knead 2 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and mullein, 250 g of copper sulfate into a bucket of water. But so that she is not “aggressive”, I insist her for 2 weeks.

Fruit misfortunes - expert opinion

Unfortunately, not a single orchard can avoid scab, monilial burn or coccomycosis. The consequences of these invasions are reflected in the crop, and sometimes even lead to the death of trees. To be fully prepared when trouble knocks on your garden, we offer you a list of the most common fruit misfortunes and methods of dealing with them.

In the last five years, the Central region has spread monilial stone burn. This disease is caused by a fungus from the genus Monilia.

Its first signs can be seen already in the spring. Suddenly, during flowering, browning and drying of flowers, ovaries and leaves occurs. The trees look burned. The infection persists in the bark of diseased shoots and affected fruits and can cause rapid (in a year or two) death of trees.

The main measures to combat this disease are the obligatory cutting of the affected branches, the treatment of the cut sites with copper sulphate and the subsequent putty with garden pitch, as well as the treatment in early spring with 1% Bordeaux liquid, repeating the treatment immediately after flowering and further treatment with Chorus preparations (2 g per 10 l of water), "Topsin-M" (10 g per 10 l) and the biological fungicide "Fitolavin" (20 ml per 10 l).

Pathogen coccomycosis in stone fruits is the fungus Coccomyces. The signs of the disease are as follows: the leaves of cherries and sweet cherries turn yellow and fall off, and before that their upper side is covered with small red-brown spots. Coccomycosis often affects old varieties. To combat it, standard methods of fruit farming are used - early spring blue spraying with further treatment with systemic fungicides such as Skor, Topsin-M and Topaz.

The infection persists in fallen leaves, so the litter from affected plants must be removed and burned or buried to a depth of two bayonets of a shovel.

Clusterosporiasis, or perforated spotting, affects plums, cherry plums, apricots and peaches. On store shelves, many have seen fruits with red-brown dots on the skin - these are signs of being affected by this disease.

On the tree itself, it appears in the form of red-brown or purple spots on leaves up to 5 mm in diameter, after a while holes form in their place (because of this, many confuse the disease with pest damage). Cracks appear on the bark of diseased trees, from which gum flows. When pruning such plants, one should be especially careful, as the infection is transmitted through wounds. Be sure to disinfect your tools.

Purple blotch raspberry, or didimella, is found in almost all private gardens. Signs can be seen from mid-June: purple spots appear on young shoots that merge, and the entire lower part of the shoot becomes purple-blue in color, brown spots with a yellow border are visible on the leaves. If these shoots are not cut out, but stored until the next year, you can see that they dry out at the beginning of the growing season and the yield on them is either absent or greatly reduced, and the berries are deformed and small.

The infection persists in the stems of diseased plants. Measures to combat this disease are cutting out affected shoots, early spring treatment with copper preparations and spraying during the growing season with fungicides such as Fundazol (10 g per 10 l) or Topaz (4 ml per 10 l).

And of course, we cannot fail to mention such a disease as scab of pome crops. This is a well-known sore that affects almost all old varieties of apple trees and, to a lesser extent, pears. Currently, varieties have been bred that are immune to several races of scab at once. The disease is caused by the fungus Venturia and begins with the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, after which the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. The fruits are also stained, their skin often cracks. The disease progresses in wet cold spring and rainy summer. Preparations for the fight against scab - "Horus", "Skor", "Raek", "Strobi".

Expert advice

Many gardeners prune in the fall, as at this time of the year garden manipulations are more accessible compared to spring when the trees are more difficult to approach due to snow. However, in the Central region with rather severe and unpredictable winters, pruning in the autumn is undesirable. It weakens the plants and reduces their chances of successfully overwintering. In addition, weakened plants are more susceptible to various diseases.

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Autumn is a very "hot" time for gardeners. And although the crop is almost already harvested, there is still a lot of work to be done. And today we will talk about autumn care behind fruit trees.

autumn care

So, processing trees in the fall. What does it include? The list of agrotechnical measures is quite extensive, so we will consider each item separately.

pruning

Processing in the fall always begins with pruning. It is she who is the main and most accessible method of regulating the yield of a tree. It is carried out both in autumn and in spring. At the end of summer, it is necessary to carry out the so-called preventive pruning. You need to carefully inspect the trees and cut out the weak ones, as well as the shoots growing inside the crown. For the next season, there will be very little use from them, and the only thing they can be useful for is that they will give small, low-quality fruits. Dried and broken branches will interfere with the tree.

Tree processing in autumn: removal of tops

Sometimes, after a complete pruning, nature once again pleases us with warmth and sunshine, and the “sleeping” trees come to life again. So be prepared to appear a large number tops.

This is the name of young shoots growing vertically upwards. They emerge from and begin to grow very actively, sometimes reaching a height of two meters. These are fattening shoots that take away the strength of the tree, but at the same time they never bear fruit and only thicken its crown. Therefore, they must be disposed of immediately.

You can remove such shoots by breaking them off with your hands or cutting them out with a garden pruner. In any case, the tree has a wound that needs to be treated with garden pitch.

spraying

Spraying trees in the fall will help prevent insect infestations in the spring, as well as produce a richer harvest. Immediately after harvesting the entire crop, the trees must be treated with a solution of urea. To do this, you need to dilute 500 grams of fertilizer in 10 liters of water and carefully process the entire tree, including the trunk. This procedure will save vegetation from scab.

It will be nice to spray the trees with a solution of the solution yourself. For this you will need:

• copper sulfate - 300 grams;
• water (warm) - 3 liters;
• lime - 400 grams;
• water - 10 liters.

First dilute copper sulfate warm water. Then pour lime into a bucket of water and, with constant stirring, pour in a solution of copper sulfate. Spraying with Bordeaux liquid must be carried out in late October or early November. Choose a dry and windless day.

Such spraying will help get rid of trees from many diseases:

• gray rot;
• scab;
• purple spotting;
• coccomycosis, etc.

Such spraying of trees in the fall allows you to process the entire garden without harming other plants and beneficial insects.

Tree processing: bark

Tree processing in autumn includes bark protection. In the spring, one can often observe rather deep vertical cracks on tree trunks. They arise due to sudden temperature changes in winter days, when during the day the sun heats the crust, and at night it cools down sharply. This is what causes cracking.

Pests hibernating under the bark can also cause similar harm. Therefore, be sure to clean the tree trunk from mosses and lichens. The bark that has lagged behind the trunk must be removed. This will help to destroy the females of the spider mite that have prepared for wintering, the causative agents of many diseases: rust, powdery mildew, kidney moths, etc. Be sure to burn all the trapping belts installed on tree trunks.

The barrel must be whitewashed and then wrapped with a protective cloth. It can be any material. An ordinary rag is also suitable, because the main goal is to protect from direct sunlight.

Whitewashing stem

The processing of fruit tree trunks in autumn consists primarily in whitewashing. It will help protect the trees from possible damage due to extreme temperature fluctuations, sunburn and slow bud break.

To protect the tree from sunburn, whitewash must be applied to a height of at least two meters. Do not forget about the processing of skeletal branches.

For the event, choose dry and calm weather. Whitewashing is carried out after the complete completion of leaf fall.

What to whiten?

If possible, it is better to purchase a ready-made solution of water-dispersion paint. You can use it when the air temperature has dropped below three degrees below zero. The paint is good because it does not prevent the tree from breathing, but also does not transmit ultraviolet radiation.

If you can’t buy a ready-made solution, then you should prepare it yourself. The role of the binder can be performed by bustilate, since when it dries it forms a thin breathable layer and does not dissolve under the influence of water. Whitewashing in this case will not be washed away by rains, and the tree will winter well. It is better not to use clay or mullein, as they are very unstable and will be washed away by rain immediately.

The role of white pigment is perfectly performed by ordinary chalk. To get a quality solution, you need two parts of a binder and a part of a pigment. First, they are thoroughly mixed with each other, and only then you can add water to them. The consistency of the solution should resemble paint.

Whitewashing the trunk can be done using the usual one. But in this case, the trunk must be coated twice, since only then the thickness of the painting will meet the norm. To prepare a whitewash mixture, you will need:

• slaked lime - 3 kilograms;
• casein glue - 80 grams;
• copper sulfate (diluted) - 450 grams;
• water.

Carefully combine all the components, and then gradually dilute with water. Ready solution should resemble good thick sour cream.

top dressing

The processing of fruit trees in the fall provides for the mandatory application of fertilizers. However, now it is worth abandoning nitrogen fertilizing. At this time, the following compositions are suitable:

• superphosphate (preferably double);
• monopotassium phosphate;
• and chloride);
• humus.

By the way, it is humus that can give the tree all the substances it needs. Mineral fertilizers able to worsen the microflora of the roots, while there is no humus. It is introduced during the autumn digging of the root circles of trees.

That's all. The processing of trees in the fall consists in carrying out all of the above activities.

One of the main requirements for the care of fruit plantations is seasonal processing. This processing is done by any summer resident who is eager to grow beautiful garden with significant yields. Spraying trees in the spring with the necessary preparations will protect the garden from the misfortune of pests and pathogenic microorganisms.

The main task of this treatment is to prevent the appearance of butterflies, aphids, caterpillars and all kinds of beetles, and also to minimize the possibility of infectious, viral and fungal diseases.

• For example, aphids cause significant damage to fruit trees such as pear, plum, apple, apricot and cherry plum. This pest infects the bark of a tree, forming nodules on its surface, which eventually crack, turning into sores. Aphids infect the leaves of trees, which first curl up and then dry up. The affected areas eventually stop growing and dry up.
• The main enemy of plums, cherries and sweet cherries is Chafer, more precisely, its larvae, which live in the ground for three years. This pest can destroy entire gardens of young trees by destroying their root systems. The flight of adult beetles occurs in May, and they also destroy young leaves and fruit ovaries. Spraying trees in spring makes their leaves unattractive to beetles.
• Flower beetles are found everywhere. With warmth, weevils crawl out of the soil where they hibernated, and head to the opening flowers, in which stamens and pistils dine. Measures to deal with them late autumn dig up trunk circles (or cover them with a thick layer of hay, sawdust, straw, through which the beetles will not get out).
• Sawflies and codling moths. These terrible insects can make the entire crop of plums, peaches, apples, pears, nectarines simply inedible. Methods of struggle - only one spraying.

Chemical treatment of the ground part of fruit trees allows you to save not only foliage, but also ripened fruits, which means you get a tasty and healthy harvest.

Irrigation of the orchard with chemicals must be carried out on time. Untimely and incorrect processing of plants will not give any effect.

When and how many times to spray?

Spraying fruit trees is done more than once, starting in early spring and ending in late autumn. Gardeners, taking into account their vast experience, have sorted out a special schedule for irrigation orchard. It describes in detail how and when to irrigate trees throughout the season.

The first spraying of fruit trees from pests is done in early spring. Many novice gardeners are wondering under what weather conditions this procedure can be carried out. So, experts advise doing the first spraying immediately after the snow melts, at a temperature of about 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Processing of fruit trees, as a rule, is carried out in the second half of March. Just at this time, the process of bud enlargement begins in plants. During spraying, as well as in the process of pruning trees, the gardener must pay special attention to cracks that may contain harmful insects. Before spraying trees, they must be prepared for this. The trees are carefully cleaned with a brush, then a freshly prepared solution is applied. The solution is applied on the day of its preparation, otherwise it will become useless. It will not remove pests, but trees can get serious burns.

Time	Works	Drug (Optional)
Early spring	Preventive spraying against pests wintering on a tree	Solar (optional)
Before bud break	Spraying against scab, moniliosis, clusterisporosis, coccomycosis and a number of other fungal diseases. Treatment with insecticides against hatching pests.	bordeaux mixture, Urea. Karbafos, And broad spectrum insecticides
During flowering	Treatment to increase immunity to fungal diseases. Browing against bream and weevils	Bordeaux liquid, Anabasin, DDT Powder, Karbafos.
After flowering	Prevention of putrefactive diseases. Pest control	Combined broad-spectrum mixtures

The cultivation of the garden in March is aimed at combating insects that infect trees, getting out of the soil.

The next spraying is carried out in April. The purpose of this spray is to protect the flower buds on the trees from various fungal diseases and the deer beetle.

May processing is carried out in order to prevent the appearance of harmful insects and diseases. This procedure is carried out after flowering trees.

The processing of the garden does not end there; with the onset of autumn, its additional spraying follows. This is a kind of preparation of fruit trees for winter. As soon as the trees shed their leaves, in October-November, it is time to start processing them. In this case, it is advised to use chemicals. If, nevertheless, spraying will be implemented without their use, then the first autumn treatment can be carried out immediately after harvesting - in September.

How to prepare trees for spraying?

Trees over 6 years old are cleaned of old bark and lichens with a brush. Growths and other accumulations on the trunk of trees in no way affect their general condition. But it is worth noting that it is in these places that pathogenic microorganisms most often like to gather. Spraying is carried out immediately after cleaning.

The final processing of fruit plantations, as well as shrubs, is carried out after harvesting and leaf fall. The site is completely cleared of weeds, leaves. The latest spraying of the garden is carried out after the first frost.

What and from what diseases to spray trees in the spring?

There are several effective preparations that gardeners use when processing fruit trees and shrubs. To date, there are a lot of substances for spring and autumn processing of orchards. The most popular tools used by many gardeners over the years:

• Carbamide or urea.

It is impossible to give preference to any one of the above means, because each of them is aimed at eliminating a specific disease or pest. One drug can be used only in the spring, the other - only in the fall. Experienced gardeners advise stopping spraying chemicals on fruit trees and shrubs 3-4 weeks before harvest.

culture	Pest	Time of processing
Grape	Mildew
Cherry and Cherry	Clusterosporiasis, Monoliosis, Bacterial cancer	3% solution before bud break,
Apricot	Clasterosporiasis, Monoliosis	3% solution before bud break, 1% solution - during the growing season
Potato	late blight,	1% solution - during the growing period
Apple tree	scab, monoliosis, bacterial cancer	3% solution before bud break, 1% solution - during the growing season
tomatoes	Late blight, Black bacterial spot, Alternariosis	1% solution - during the growing period
Onion	Downy mildew, Rust, Rot	1% solution - during the growing period
Cucumber	Peronosporosis, Anthracnose, Ascochitosis, Olive spot, Bacteriosis	1% solution - during the growing period
Peaches	leaf curl, bacterial canker	3% solution before bud break,

Processing the garden with iron sulphate is performed twice during the entire season. The first spraying is carried out during the formation of foliage, and the second - when the trees are preparing for wintering. This drug has a double action. It enriches shrubs and trees with iron, and is also an effective protection against all kinds of pests and diseases. Iron deficiency in fruit trees is expressed in a banal way - low yields and underdevelopment of fruits. Spraying vitriol based on iron fruit plantations is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn, for preventive purposes, and also for the extermination of lichen, moss, cytosporosis, black cancer and septosporosis.

The treatment of the garden with copper sulphate is carried out in the same way as in the previous preparation - twice per season. The first treatment is done in early spring, even before the appearance of young buds. This substance must be handled with care, since blue vitriol of even the weakest concentration can burn young foliage on trees. This is an excellent disinfectant, healing wounds on the trunk of trees and shrubs. Trees such as pear, plum and apple are sprayed with this fungicide in both autumn and spring. Copper sulphate protects orchards from moniliosis, scab, clasterosporosis and curliness.

For one young tree, up to 6 years old, add 2 liters of a freshly prepared solution. For adult specimens, 10 liters of liquid are used. Garden processing is carried out in the morning or in the evening, when there is no wind, at a temperature of 10 to 25 degrees. On hot days, it is advised to refrain from treating with this drug, as it is quite aggressive and can harm both animals and people. The solution is prepared in a place remote from water bodies.

Not less than effective drug from pests is considered carbamide (urea). The first care for orchards in early spring begins with spraying them with this particular preparation. This procedure is carried out immediately after flowering. The second spraying with this substance is carried out before wintering. Urea is intended to save the crop from the invasion of various pests. Properly made solution allows you to achieve the desired effect.

At the first spraying, an increased concentration of urea is used with the addition of a small dose of copper sulphate. Such a tool is effective not only against a variety of pests, but also allows you to slow down the growing season in some fruit trees by 2-3 weeks. This allows you to save the color on the trees during the last frost.

7 days after flowering, fruit plantations are sprayed with a weaker solution of urea: 50 g of the substance is diluted with a bucket of water. This protects the trees from leafworms, aphids, caterpillars, suckers and flower beetles.

The second treatment is carried out in the fall, when the trees are halfway without foliage. In this case, a solution of increased concentration is used. Spraying is also carried out after the complete fall of the foliage. In this case, spraying is carried out with a solution of urea with a concentration of 8-10%. Not only trees, but also the soil around them are subject to this treatment. This substance has a double action - it disinfects plantings, and also nourishes the soil. Here it is extremely important to choose the right concentration so as not to harm the trees and not reduce their resistance to cold.

Just like other drugs, it is applied twice - in autumn and spring. This oil product must be used with extreme caution, as it can cause burns to trees and shrubs, as a result of which they die. Therefore, spraying with diesel fuel is carried out strictly before the formation of buds and leaves on the trees in the spring. The second spraying is carried out only after the trees completely lose their foliage.

This substance is strictly forbidden to use in its pure form. It is diluted with water or other liquid, thereby reducing the concentration and destructive effect. A diluted solution of diesel fuel is extremely effective in combating rot.

Apply it in early spring and late autumn. The finished solution consists of 200 g of the substance, diluted with 1 bucket of water. Treatment with this drug destroys many pests that have remained on the trunk and branches since autumn. It can be a false shield, aphid, whitefly, mealybug, leafworm and moth, etc. The 30V preparation is often used in the fight against insects in the summer. This substance is considered harmless. When applied, it forms a thin film on the canopy of trees, which prevents the supply of oxygen and moisture for pests at the stage of eggs and larvae. Such conditions eventually lead to the death of insects.

Despite the safety of this drug, experienced gardeners use it no more than once every three years.

Today, two types of devices for spraying orchards are produced - manual or mechanical. This is a necessary thing for the correct and effective implementation procedures. It improves spray quality and protects the grower from contact with the chemical. Each device is equipped with a pump. To work with drugs in powder form, there are devices with air supply.

Apparatus on the mechanics are characterized by convenience and high cost. The pumping principle for manual and mechanical devices is also different. Each model has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, here you should already proceed from the needs and possibilities when buying this thing.

We wish you success and good harvests!