Where to make sockets in the apartment. Proper and convenient installation of sockets in the apartment

Everybody modern houses and apartments are designed in such a way that any room is as functional as possible. Therefore, today you will not surprise anyone with the fact that in each of the rooms of the house a large number of various electrical appliances. It is for this reason that at the time of drawing up the socket diagram in the apartment, many different details should be taken into account.

What is the ideal height for outlets?

If you look at the photo of the outlets in the apartment, you will see that in most cases either the placement option is used directly above the baseboard, or approximately at hip level. Of course, there are other options while viewing design projects, but they are far from being used so often by electricians for a variety of reasons.

When placed at hip level, the advantage is convenient access directly to electricity for all appliances that will stand on various surfaces. In the first case, convenience will be noticeable when using household appliances such as a vacuum cleaner.

Where to place sockets in the bedroom and reception room?

In the living room, as well as in the room reserved for sleeping, at what height it is completely unimportant to install the socket as a whole, due to the fact that it will be mainly used for floor lamps that stand on the floor or small table-type lamps. The nuance will consist only in the obligatory laying of sockets on each side of the bed, and at all chairs.

Even if at this stage of the repair you are sure that the floor lamp will not stand next to the chair, it is not a fact that you will not change your mind, for example, after six months.

The socket used for the charger is best placed next to the cabinet near the bed or not far from the sofa.

Make sure that the living room has a couple of slots for home theater, music system. If you are a fish lover, then in this case, do not forget to take into account the necessary sockets for lighting, a water filter near the aquarium. These outlets should be as easy to access in the future as possible.

An important point. Think in advance what the route of your vacuum cleaner will be during cleaning. If the area of the room is large enough, then in this case the most convenient option the location of sockets in the apartment is in the far part of the room and right at the entrance. Thus, you will save yourself from the need to constantly stretch the cord. electrical appliance in constant attempts to reach the far reaches of the room.

home office

For a home office, a couple of “exits” are required right at the desktop. Low level do-it-yourself installation of wiring sockets in an apartment is ideal for those cases when the computer is of a stationary type. Do not forget that very often an external camera, like computer speakers, needs its own outlet.

If you have to charge your smartphone, player or tablet quite often, then the main thing here is that all sockets must be literally at hand.

New generation sockets: with a lot dedicated to telephone, USB input and TV antenna.

When thinking about the question of how to make a socket with your own hands, you should understand that today more and more various household appliances can be charged without problems using the simplest USB cord. It is for this reason that a familiar socket with a plug is far from always needed.

Reduce the number of outlets in your home during renovations by installing a dedicated device for future charging when USB help. It allows you to charge several devices at the same time, while reducing the charging time. Sockets of this type can be easily installed next to the classic ones in a single frame. It is best if they are installed next to working surface to avoid the risk of stepping on the charger.

Another similar device makes it possible to combine an outlet in the usual sense with a universal built-in battery. The main convenience lies in the possibility of installation in absolutely any single slot, which not only saves space in the room, but also significantly increases your “tactical” capabilities during repairs.

Sockets in the kitchen

In no case should you connect the refrigerator with an extension cord. That is why the socket in the kitchen should be installed not only in the right place, but also taking into account this limitation.

In practice, connection oven, like any modern cooking surface, is carried out through one or even two outlets. The important point is that these are mostly simple three-phase sockets powered by their own RCD.

If we talk about kitchen or household appliances in general, then here, analyzing how to replace old socket on a new one, it is best to simply bring it to the apron. In the future, you can connect both a blender and a kettle there, and during the day.

An important point. For the operation of the microwave and TV in the kitchen, it is best to make a special disguised exit in advance. If there are few sockets in the necessary places in the kitchen, then it will be possible to bring them out even to side surface the bottom of the kitchen cabinets. To mask the nest, you can use a modern hinged section.

Bathroom sockets

In the public domain, there should always be literally a couple of slots used for an electric razor and a hair dryer. Also, one or two additional sockets can be placed on the floor if there is a washing machine right in the room.

If you plan to install a hot tub or a new generation bathtub with a built-in TV in the bathroom, then a hidden type of power supply must be separately provided for them.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that you should not forget about safety. Since outlets tend to get clogged with dust fairly quickly without proper care, they should be cleaned at least once a week.

Photo of sockets in the apartment

Planning electrical wiring in an apartment at the repair stage is very important point and should be treated with great responsibility. Installing sockets in an apartment - as part of the wiring - is the most capricious and controversial part. Let's get into the details.

What wiring to use

Almost all household appliances in the apartment are designed for power up to 5 amperes, and on the sockets they write that they can withstand 16A. In fact, most high-quality sockets will withstand much more current, but that's not the point. Wiring and circuit breakers for sockets should be selected according to the following principles:

Cable cross section 2.5 mm;
Automatic (switch) - 16 amperes.

Helpful Hint: Don't try to save money on wiring. Do not use aluminum wires. AT modern renovation it's bad tone. Aluminum conducts electricity worse, heats up more, is fragile and obsolete.

Where to locate

Location of sockets and switches

We wrote about how to arrange sockets in the kitchen and in the bathroom in separate articles, here we will talk about residential, and not only, premises. Here, too, it is important to observe some principles:

Sockets are located at a height of 10-20 cm from the floor
When planning outlets, avoid using and even more so in one glass. We have already written about the shortcomings of these devices;
Arrange sockets so that they have free access;
socket in window slope placed at a height of at least 30 cm from the windowsill so that you can safely use it next to the flower pot
Do not install sockets in cabinets and shelves! This is unsafe and very impractical. Furniture lasts 5-10 years, wiring should last 50!

Number of outlets per apartment

Let's count together required amount sockets for your apartment.

Vacuum cleaner socket - it should be near each door to the room
Hallway
- WIFI router;
- telephone set;
- signaling;
- call;
- +2 for other needs (charging your phone, tablet, etc.)
Toilet - even if now you have no idea what the electricity is there for, still put one outlet. Suddenly you want a TV there or an electric air cleaner, humidifier, dehumidifier, etc. In general, one socket in the toilet will not hurt
Bathroom. More details we. It all depends on the technology that will be installed:
- Boiler;
- Washing machine;
- Warm floor;
- Towel dryer;
- Air Dryer;
- Jacuzzi.
All this equipment must be powered by something, part of it (boiler, underfloor heating) is constantly connected, so such devices as:
- electric shaver;
- Depilatory;
- hydromassage bath;
- Curling…
Requires additional sockets
In general, the bathroom should not have less than 3 outlets.
Bedroom. Each sleeping area need to equip:
- Lamp;
- Socket for recharging the phone;
- Socket for connecting a tablet or laptop;
- Reserve.
Workplace. You can’t do without a computer, which means there should be a lot of sockets:
- System unit;
- Monitor;
- active speakers;
- A printer;
- Scanner;
- Router;
- Phone charger;
- Charging for the tablet;
- Table lamp;
- +2 additional sockets;
Believe me, this amount will not be excessive. It is better to do everything carefully at the planning stage than to add later network filters missing electrical outlets
Multimedia. TVs and audio systems different people located in different rooms and there may be several of them, so it’s better to decide in advance where you want to see multimedia systems and place sockets there under:
- TV;
- turntable;
- Amplifier;
- Speakers;
- Additional router
In one block with 220 volt power sockets, antenna, network sockets, as well as sockets for audio systems are usually mounted
Kitchen. Perhaps the most "socket" room. There can be from 10 to 30 sockets, depending on the size and technical equipment. We described this in more detail in the article.
Loggia, balcony. If they are glazed, then at least one outlet should be installed there, if there is no glazing and is not planned, it is advisable to install.

How to connect to the shield

A few principles that will not let you get confused

All sockets in one room are connected to a shield under one circuit breaker, rated at 16 amperes;
This switch does not include air conditioners and lighting.
Under the water heater hob, the electric oven is provided with separate sockets with separate 25 ampere machines. These are not common outlets!
For sockets in the bathroom, you should install so that you do not get electrocuted during a flood from the neighbors from above;
Sockets and switches on the loggia and balcony can be combined into one machine (separately the loggia, separately the balcony). All other sockets must be separate from the lighting so that your light does not turn off when there is a short circuit in the socket

What types to use

When planning electricians in an apartment, the following principles should be used:

Which companies to buy

Trust is caused only by European and American manufacturers of electrical equipment. In order not to make wiring more expensive for yourself, do not choose sockets from Chinese companies such as Makel, Viko, Lezard, as well as all Russian manufacturers. In fact, they are only assembled in the Russian Federation, and all components (of the lowest quality) are supplied from the same China.

The method of fastening the wire is screwless, i.e. the wire should just be inserted there;
The body and mechanism of the socket do not burn or support combustion. More details in the article about;
The socket contacts are made of copper, bronze or brass - checked with a magnet.
The socket mechanism securely holds both the euro plug (with thick contact studs) and the thin one from charging.

Comments:

The main parameters for the correct installation of sockets and switches

It should be noted right away that it is quite difficult to find exact uniform standards for the installation height of switches and sockets, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Some references to existing "European standards" are just a desire to copy the established fashion trend"European renovation", the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.

By the way, the installation standards existed until some time - it was they that guided the builders in the construction of residential buildings of mass multi-storey buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (at level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (on level eye). In most apartments old building such a distribution can still be seen to this day. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it convenient and are not going to redo it.

What explains such parameters is now difficult to say. Perhaps this was due to security considerations - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points remain accessible to children - sockets, and there are no special security considerations in this, but a child under 8 ÷ 10 years old cannot extinguish the light on their own. Another probable reason for such an installation is that it was always carried out indoors on top of the walls, and such an arrangement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cable (on the scale of mass construction ongoing in those years, the savings were serious).

Nevertheless, today the adopted European ones are more in use, rather than the standards, but the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?

Some building guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning during the construction phase of the house):

Rosettes - 400 ÷ 450 mm from the level of the subfloor (slabs interfloor overlap). Thus, after pouring the screed and installation finish coat floor height will be about 300 mm.
- 1000 ÷ 1050 mm from the rough surface, respectively, about 900 mm at the end of the finishing work.

Why is it convenient? Sockets and included power cables are not conspicuous and do not spoil appearance rooms, and you can turn the light on or off with your hand freely lowered down. It is possible to teach children to be independent (of course, under adult control) - the switch is within reach for them.

It is worth mentioning right away that such “standards” exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.

There are special requirements for the installation of sockets and switches in institutions related to children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid uncontrolled actions of children with electricity by teachers or educators, these fittings are installed equally high - at a height of at least 1800 mm.

So, if we talk only about the height of the installation of sockets in residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three ways:

1 — When repairing, do not change the location of any sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual "Soviet standards" if it seems more convenient and safer.

2 — Alter the arrangement of reinforcement elements according to European traditions, which were mentioned above.

3 — To provide for your own location, based on personal preferences and amenities - this does not contradict the existing rules.

There are much more restrictions and recommendations for other installation parameters - they are set out in the current rules for the operation of electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:

The minimum installation height of sockets in residential premises is not regulated, the maximum height is not higher than 1000 mm. Even their location at floor level is allowed - subject to the use of special skirting boards with cable channels from fireproof materials and special types of sockets.

Special socket with placement on the plinth - right at the floor level

In industrial premises, however, it is recommended to install sockets at a height of 800 to 1000 mm, and with the upper network wiring, you can raise them up to 1500 mm. It has already been said about children's and school institutions - at least 1800 mm from the floor level.
In an apartment, especially when children live in it, it is strongly recommended (although not a mandatory rule) to use sockets with protective rods that automatically close the holes when the plug is pulled out.

Optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective shutters

Electrical wiring and electrical appliances should not be located closer than 500 mm from gas supply risers, closer than 100 mm from window or doorways, less than 150 mm from the level of the main ceiling. If installation is planned false ceiling(suspended or tension), then both the wiring and the junction box should be below its level.
Installing sockets in bathrooms is not recommended. If, nevertheless, it is impossible to do without it, then it should be mounted at least 600 mm from the shower or bath door. In this case, a prerequisite is the use of special sockets for wet rooms (with increased housing tightness and with spring-loaded protective covers), and with its obligatory power supply through a leakage current (differential current) of not more than 30 mA.

To complete the issue with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install sockets close to the floor surface. "Design" in such conditions does not play a special role, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling irons or an electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one, or even one and a half meters. This absolutely eliminates the placement of the outlet above the washbasin.

Switches are mounted, as a rule, on the wall at the entrance, from the side door handles. Installation height - from 800 to 1700 mm. If necessary, you can install them even higher, providing, for example, the possibility of switching on with a cord. Very often in small spaces(in hallways, in kitchens, in rooms with a small area) you have to combine sockets and switches in blocks - then optimal height the location of such a block is considered to be about 900 mm from the floor - the "golden mean".

In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to change the old sockets to new ones, the so-called "European format". They have a hole diameter - 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, several and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug. Such sockets withstand much larger loads - they are usually rated currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).

In addition, if the old outlet location is not connected ground loop– you will have to deal with this closely – most modern electrical appliances have three-prong grounded plugs to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances connection to ground loop is simply a prerequisite). A few - in a special publication of our portal.

Video: where to place sockets and switches on the wall

Prices for sockets, switches and frames

Sockets, switches and frames

Some nuances of cable installation

Time is done general repair, then it is worth revising the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of at least 1.5 mm². This section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if it is planned to install household appliances with increased power, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.

Core cross section copper wire, mm²	maximum current under continuous load, A	maximum power load, kW	rated current triggering automatic protection, A	current limit triggering automatic protection, A	scope at home (apartments)
1.5	19	4.1	10	16	lighting, signaling devices
2.7	27	5.9	16	25	socket blocks, floor heating systems
4	38	8.3	25	32	air conditioning equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers
6	46	10.1	32	40	electric stoves and electric ovens
10	70	15.4	50	63	input power lines

Probably, it makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.

Each socket (or socket block) must be powered from its own junction box

Each outlet (socket group) or switch must be connected to an individual junction box. Make long hidden parallel connections from one to socket to the other is unwise, and in some cases can even be dangerous - this can easily lead to a reboot of this line with all the ensuing consequences.

From mounting boxes sockets or switches must have strictly vertical wiring. This is explained simply - you can always visually determine the place of passage power cables in the thickness of the wall. If the line is laid in random order - at an angle (as in the figure, pos. No. 3) or even vertically, but with an offset (pos. No. 2) from the location of the socket (switch), then it can become an object of hidden danger.

After some time, and this happens quite quickly, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, it will be a “surprise” for the new owners of the apartment. When trying, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or a shelf, there is a high probability that the drill will hit a live power line with all the sad consequences - short circuit and the need for extensive wiring repairs.

But on the ceiling surface of the floor slab, if it is planned to install a hinged or stretch ceiling, wiring can be placed arbitrarily, as a rule - along the shortest distance. If a NYM type cable is used, then it does not even require additional protective insulation - it can be mounted directly on plastic dowel clamps. Cables of another type ( VVGng or VVG) are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe required diameter.

On the floor, under its decorative covering, power cables can also be arranged arbitrarily, along the shortest distance. However, there are also special caveats. So, if the floor is laid on wooden logs, then wiring, regardless of the type of cable, is allowed only in metal pipes, regular or corrugated.

If a screed is planned, then corrugated plastic pipes are enough

If the wiring is flooded concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.

The next question is how often should sockets be installed, are there any rules on this?

There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - install them 1 piece at 6 ÷ 10 square meters area. However, apparently, these "standards" are somewhat outdated, as the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think over in advance the placement of the main instruments and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords in the future. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.

A well-designed scheme will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work.

And one more very important remark, or rather, good advice. When carrying out repair and electrical work, it is necessary not to be too lazy to photograph all the cable laying lines, the placement of junction boxes and other elements of the home electrical network, until they are hidden by plaster or finishing materials. It is desirable to take pictures in such a way that it is possible to bind hidden objects to stationary elements. For example, with sizing from a window or doorway, the corner of a room, a heating riser, etc. - so that you can quickly and accurately find the right node if you need any emergency, repair or maintenance work.

If planned, it is better to refer to a special publication of our portal, in which this issue is set out in more detail.

Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair

Cables and wires for construction and repair

Features of installing sockets and switches on kitchen

The kitchen is a special place for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with fumes, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, modern kitchen- this is the focus of the maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances during cooking or other business transactions are used simultaneously, so the level of total load is usually the highest here.

The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when performing certain household tasks. Considering that many of them require separate power lines, one can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard.

Type of household appliance	Average power consumption	Features of connecting to the power supply
Stove or hob electric	from 3500 to 12000 W	Individually routed power line
Electric oven	from 2500 to 10000 W	likewise
Washing machine	from 1500 to 3000 W	likewise
water heater	from 2500 to 7000 W	likewise
Dishwasher	from 1500 to 3500 W	likewise
Microwave	from 700 to 2500 W	Allowed to connect to a regular 16 A socket
Refrigerator (peak value - only at the time of start-up)	from 500 to 2000 W	likewise
Electric kettle	from 700 to 1500 W	likewise
Food processor (combine)	from 500 to 1500 W	likewise
Bread maker, steamer, etc.	from 700 to 2000 W	likewise
Toaster	up to 1000 W	likewise
Kitchen hood	from 500 to 1500 W	likewise
waste shredder	from 400 to 1000 watts	likewise

Obviously, a lot of outlets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for the one installed in kitchen sink waste chopper and for additional lighting of the working space in the area of the cutting table, stove, sink.

Here, there can be no talk of any standards for the height of the installation of sockets - their location should, primarily, provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection against moisture ingress, for stationary equipment - the secrecy of the wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:

It is clear that there are many options for placing built-in appliances, and if we add to this a variety of desktop electrical appliances and the features of their use (for example, there are housewives, whose favorite kitchen accessories are constantly “registered” on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing equipment and laying wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.

About the power of the supplied power lines (section copper wires) has already been mentioned - it is enough to compare the data from the first and second tables above. Nevertheless, one more figure is given, according to which one can decide on this issue.

An important condition is that the total capacity of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, ensure the possibility of simultaneously switching on all points of consumption. In practice, of course, this should not be allowed in any case, but insurance is still necessary.

For the hob (electric stove) and for the oven ( ifthey are independent of each other) special power sockets are installed, designed for a maximum current of 32 - 40 A. The same is true if the stove and oven are dependent on each other.

Various Models power sockets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for high-power household appliances

If a storage water heater (boiler) with a capacity of more than 3.5 kW is installed in the kitchen, then I also remember to connect it to a power outlet, or to an automatic machine installed on the wall in a protective box. This unit operates in automatic mode almost constantly, and he doesn’t really need an outlet.
Installation of sockets for other built-in household appliances can be provided at several levels:

— On the wall, on top no higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these reinforcement elements behind a standard removable furniture plinth.

- In lockers kitchen set- provided that this piece of furniture does not contain retractable or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which can catch the electric cable.

- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from the plumbing and sewer pipes. The socket in this case must be sealed with a waterproof cover.

- On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for extractor hoods, additional lighting devices, sometimes for built-in microwaves or refrigerators. The height of the sockets in this case is not less than 50 mm above the level upper surface closet.

To connect a desktop kitchen appliances sockets are located on the wall, approximately 100 mm from the level (this, as a rule, falls at a height of 1150 mm from the floor level (if desired, it can be higher, up to 1400 mm). At the same time, socket blocks should never be located above the sink or over hob– they should be removed at least 250 ÷ 300 mm to the side.

Instead of this wall placement Outlet blocks have now actively begun to use special retractable or folding modules - in the form of opening "books" or retractable upwards for connecting "columns" with sockets.

Hidden socket block in the form of an opening "book"

It is very convenient - and the wall surface is “clean”, and appears only as needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.

Another option for hidden placement of sockets is a rising "column"

What other principles should be taken into account when placing outlets:

The socket for built-in equipment can never be placed directly behind the installed appliance - it must be moved to the side, up or down.
The distance from the device to the power outlet must not exceed 1000 mm.
All, without exception, the lines going to the kitchen must have their own circuit breakers and RCD devices.

When planning the laying of power lines in the kitchen, of course, it is worth proceeding from the real characteristics of household appliances. Probably, it would be better to contact an electrical organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this scheme, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of sockets "on the ground" - to determine the places for making rosettes zd in the wall and cutting strobes to them.

It is possible that it will be possible to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be “planted” on the same power line with a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is enough for a refrigerator and a certain outlet group. However, conclusions should still be drawn by a professional in this matter.

Video: a difficult task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen

It is impossible to imagine a room without sockets. Especially if it is a kitchen where a large number of household appliances that need power are used. How to arrange sockets and switches correctly on limited area and how many of them will be needed - a number of recommendations.

It is necessary to plan the location of outlets in the kitchen not when the repair is completed and the arrangement of furniture and the connection of the stove and refrigerator begin. Ideally, it is necessary to choose a place for sockets even at the stage of planning a kitchen renovation. room design and overall design The interior is closely related to the question of where to place sockets, since they should be where the equipment will stand. And ditching the walls for wiring, wiring and installing sockets must be done before fine finish premises, and not after the wallpaper and tiles are pasted.

Therefore, before work, it is necessary to make a plan, where to mark the installation locations of sockets, switches, where furniture and appliances will stand.

First of all, you have to determine where to put:

refrigerator;
dishwasher;
stove;
hood;
microwave oven;
petty household appliances type of kettle, multicooker, bread machine and so on;
TV.

Important: do not forget that you will need an outlet to connect various devices, unrelated to the kitchen - a vacuum cleaner for cleaning, chargers, a laptop. It is most convenient to make such an outlet in the area of \u200b\u200bthe recreation area.

Based on this, the number of required outlets and their location is determined.

Optimal number

Before the wiring is done, you need to decide how many outlets you need in the kitchen before installing them. There is even a calculation formula for this. Of course, the calculation will be conditional, but it will take into account the needs of the household and how many switches and sockets are needed quite accurately.

So, the optimal number of sockets that are supposed to be installed should exceed the number of electrical appliances for permanent use in the kitchen by 25%. The excess of the installation is laid just so that there is where to turn on rarely used equipment - an electric meat grinder, mixer or blender. And at the same time, it did not take anything to turn off or pull extension cords.

Required electrical appliances, if any, include:

refrigerator;
electric or gas stove with electric ignition;
TV;
Dishwasher;
hood;
microwave.

In some cases, they can also include an electric kettle or other small appliances, which is used in this house daily. Based on how many switches and sockets you need, then a project is made for the electrical circuit in the kitchen.

Types of sockets

It is necessary not only to establish how many switches and sockets you need, but also to choose the right sockets that are more suitable for the kitchen. The kitchen is different high humidity and temperature fluctuations. Therefore, sockets are installed here that have a certain degree of moisture protection, ensuring the safety of work. These devices include devices that have a seal and covers and are classified as IP 44. Similar Eurostandard sockets are installed next to the stove, sink, working area- in a word, where there is a high risk of splashing.

In other places of the kitchen, it is quite possible to install the most ordinary sockets. If there are children in the house, then they should be equipped with child protection - plastic curtains. European standard sockets are equipped with this option.

If we talk about ease of installation, then here the priority is for retractable and built-in sockets. Thanks to turning mechanism built-in sockets can be hidden or opened for use. Eurostandard retractable sockets can be installed on any surface, even vertical ones. They can be selected for installation on difficult surfaces.

Wiring rules

There should be enough lines so that they provide power to the devices twice the size after installing all the sockets and switches. At the same time, the most powerful devices must be powered from their own line and have protective automation. Such appliances include a refrigerator, an electric stove.

All metal cased instruments must be grounded as recommended by the wiring standard. You can do this yourself or entrust a specialist. You have to connect with the machine.

Be sure to select wires with copper conductors for wiring. Aluminum core can quickly fail in the kitchen.

All sockets can be grouped. Each group of outlets must have its own machine. This will provide additional security.

Where and at what height to install sockets

Of course, next to the electrical appliances for which they were designed, the diagram should contain detailed information about this. Without fail, one socket must be installed above the refrigerator, behind the refrigerator or next to it; one - next to the stove; one next to dishwasher. However, sockets and switches should not be behind the stove or in close proximity to the sink. One outlet should be next to the TV stand.

You also need to install at least one outlet above the work surface of the countertop. And better - 2-3. The height of the socket above the table is set 10 cm from the edge of the table.

In the presence of built-in appliances, sockets are installed side by side at a height of 10 cm from the floor. The outlet for the hood is installed above it. You can not place sockets behind the built-in appliances. The European standard involves the installation of sockets and switches at the bottom.

For the convenience of using the kitchen, you can choose dual sockets and switches next to the table, below.

Wiring - necessary step in the installation of sockets, but before that you need to decide at what height the switches will be.

The installation height depends primarily on the habits of the hostess and personal taste. Some people prefer when the sockets are at the bottom, others find it inconvenient. Choose the height and type of outlet based on the convenience of everyone in the house.

Where sockets should not be placed:

for built-in appliances and furniture;
in cabinets and cabinets;
over the sink.

This is the generally accepted standard for electrical work.

Location of outlets in the kitchen (video)

Conclusion

You can do the wiring with your own hands - it's not difficult, provided you know the basics of electrics. If there is little knowledge, then it is best to entrust these works to professionals - electricians who know the standard of work. Then you can be sure that there will be no ignition of the wiring and fire.