Five main reasons why a modern iron fails. Repair of irons
The iron is a necessary and irreplaceable thing in the household. But, like any device that is often used, it becomes unusable. What to do in this case? Carry to the workshop or buy a new one? Do not rush to do either one or the other. The device of the iron is quite simple, and a person with even small skills and knowledge will be able to cope with this task. Iron malfunctions are usually caused by electricity and very rarely by the steaming system. Follow our advice and you can quickly learn how to repair your iron.
First, stock up on tools. Be sure to prepare a tester and screwdrivers - simple and cross-shaped. You will also need pliers, a knife - and you can start repairing. We will consider faults moving from simple to more complex. If the iron does not heat up and the control lamp does not light up, then open the back cover and see if the power cord is working properly. To do this, connect the plug to the socket and use a tester to check whether the current reaches the terminal block. If it does not reach, then the wire in the cord is probably broken off. It usually breaks off either at the point of entry into the iron, or near the plug. If near the plug, then cut it off and put a new collapsible one, and if near the iron itself, then just remove ten centimeters and connect it again to the terminal block. If you don't want to bother, then change the cord to a new one. By the way, it must be in a thread braid. If the cord is intact and the iron is not working, you must remove the handle and the water tank to gain access to the soleplate of the iron. There were no problems with old Soviet irons, but on modern ones all screw fasteners are hidden with plugs to give better design product. Find and remove them with the tip of a knife, and there will be screws under them. In some places, plastic locks are used to open them - gently bend the edge of the part, insert a small screwdriver, and using light pressure, open the locks. There will also be screws. Unscrew them, and the handle with the reservoir can be removed easily. When you remove the tank, make sure that the rubber seals are not lost. When you have access to the soleplate of the iron, you need to check first the thermal fuse, and then the thermostat. The first is to prevent a fire from happening. When, for some reason, the temperature in the iron starts to rise unauthorizedly, the fuse blows out. Check it with a tester, and if the fuse is faulty, it must be replaced. It is easy to change, you just need to unscrew the screw that fixes it to the case, and the two screws with which it connects to the circuit.
Today we will figure out the very unpleasant situation when the iron stopped heating up. The iron has become an integral part of everyone. Using the vitek vt 1259 iron as an example, I will tell you how to find out why the iron does not heat up.
For disassembly, we need a screwdriver, a metal spatula, but then everything will depend on why the iron does not heat up, the reasons.
First, we see one bolt on the back of the iron, you can unscrew it using a flat screwdriver with a hole in the middle. 
Now we are looking for the rest of the bolts to disassemble the iron. We remove the buttons on the iron handle, for this you need to pry with a spatula, but carefully so as not to break the fasteners. There is a bolt under the buttons, we unscrew it using a Phillips screwdriver. 
You can already remove the upper part of the iron handle, pry it along the seam with a spatula and snap off the latches. We also unscrew all the bolts that we see. 
In the back of the vitek vt 1259 iron, we unscrew all the bolts, except for those that hold the power cord, these two do not need to be unscrewed. Otherwise, the cord will hang and simply interfere with our further actions. 
In the front part, near the spout, we also see the bolts, unscrew them. 
We unscrewed all the bolts along the body, you can raise the body. We will soon find out why the iron stopped heating up. When we raised the body, we found three more bolts, we also unscrew them. 
We remove the upper part, only the sole remains. So, how do you know why the iron is not heating? The sole has a thermostat and a thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is in a white case, you need to get to it, you can't move the case to one side, so you can just cut it in half and push it apart.
When we got to the thermal fuse, we put the tester in the dial mode and check if it should ring. The thermal fuse does not ring for us, which means that it is not working properly and needs to be replaced with the same one. We found out why the iron stopped heating. We install a new thermal fuse and turn on the iron, it immediately began to heat up. Good luck to everyone in the repairs. 
Before considering the diagram electric iron, I think it's worth touching on this household appliance itself. The iron was invented back in the distant 17th century, but it became electric only in the 20th. After our country became electrified, they began to massively produce and use household electric irons. Today we live in the age of digital technologies, the latest nanotechnology. Electric iron from simple heating device transformed into a technical apparatus, which is stuffed with electronics.
Modern electric irons come in three types:
- without regulation of the heating temperature;
- with thermostat;
- with thermostat and steam humidifier.
As a rule, all irons have the same design, consisting of an on / off indicator and a thermostat (relay).
Electric iron concept
The heating element is most often used as a heating element. The heating element is a nichrome spiral, which is placed in a special case, often in the form of a pipe. The tube is made of a non-combustible material - ceramic or metal. When voltage is applied to the spiral, it heats up and thermal energy supplied to the main metal body of the iron (soleplate).
The electric iron is also equipped with an indication system that indicates whether it is working or not. The signal light (indicator) starts to light up as soon as the iron is connected to the mains. It signals to us that the heating element (TEN) is on. When a certain temperature is reached (we need to iron a particular material), the light goes out, indicating that the iron is ready for use. Further switching on or off the indicator light shows normal work iron. 
Still very important detail any electric iron is the presence of a temperature sensor. It is he who makes the thermostat work when the temperature of the heating element reaches its maximum value. The thermal sensor activates, i.e. sends a signal to the relay, which, in turn, turns off the voltage supply to the heating element coil. When the temperature of the soleplate of the iron drops to a minimum value, the temperature sensor is triggered again - through the thermal relay, it supplies voltage to the heating element. All irons must have a thermal fuse that turns off the heating element (TEN) if the main regulator does not work, and the sole temperature exceeds the temperature of the thermal fuse.
A thermostat is installed in modern electric irons. Its purpose is to smoothly adjust the voltage that is supplied to the heating element. By adjusting the voltage, we adjust the degree of heating of the heating element coil, and, consequently, the temperature of the soleplate of the iron.
The principle of operation of the thermostat is based on the use of the properties of metals to expand (lengthen) when heated and contract when cooled. The bimetallic plate, which consists of two layers of different metals with different coefficients of linear expansion, is the main working part of the thermostat. One end of the plate is attached to the sole of the iron, the other end remains free. When the sole of the iron is heated to a certain temperature, the bimetallic plate bends towards the metal, which has a lower coefficient of linear expansion, and when the set temperature is reached, it opens the contacts, thereby turning off the heating element. When the temperature of the soleplate of the iron decreases, the plate returns to its original position and turns on the heating element. Thus, the heating temperature of the iron is automatically maintained within the preset limits and ensures average temperature ironing.
Since then, when people took off their animal skins and began to put on woven clothes, the question arose of removing folds and wrinkles from things after washing. Things were pressed down with flat stones, ironed with pans with hot coals, and whatever housewives did not come up with, until June 6, 1882, the American inventor Henry Seeli patented the electric iron.
And only in 1903, the American entrepreneur Earl Richardson brought the invention to life by making the first electrically heated iron, which the seamstresses really liked.
The principle of operation and electrical circuit of the iron
Electrical circuit diagram
If you look at the electrical diagram of a Braun iron, you might think that this is a diagram of an electric heater or electric kettle. And this is not surprising, the electrical circuits of all the listed devices are not much different. The differences lie in the design of these household appliances due to their different purposes.
The supply voltage of 220 V is supplied through a flexible heat-resistant cord with a molded plug to the XP connector installed in the iron body. The PE terminal is grounding, does not take part in the work and serves to protect a person from electric shock in the event of an insulation breakdown on the case. The PE wire in the cord is usually yellow - green colors.
If the iron is connected to a network without a ground loop, then the PE wire is not used. The L (phase) and N (zero) terminals in the iron are equivalent, which terminal is zero or the phase does not matter.
From the L terminal, the current is supplied to the Temperature Regulator, and if its contacts are closed, then further to one of the TEN terminals. From the N terminal, the current flows through the thermal fuse to the second terminal of the heating element. In parallel to the terminals of the heating element, a neon lamp is connected through the resistor R, which glows when voltage is applied to the heating element and the iron heats up.
In order for the iron to start heating, it is necessary to apply the supply voltage to a tubular electric heater (TEN), pressed into the sole of the iron. For quick heating of the sole, heating elements of high power are used, from 1000 to 2200 W. If this power is constantly supplied, then in a few minutes the sole of the iron will be heated red-hot and it will be impossible to iron things without spoiling them. For ironing products made of nylon and anida, the temperature of the iron is 95-110 ° C, and that of linen is 210-230 ° C. Therefore, to set the required temperature when ironing things made of different fabrics, there is a temperature control unit.
The temperature control unit is controlled with a round knob located in the central part under the iron handle. Turning the knob clockwise will increase the heating temperature, while turning it counterclockwise, the heating temperature of the soleplate will be lower.
Rotation from the handle to the thermostat assembly is transmitted through an adapter in the form of a sleeve or a metal angle put on a threaded rod of the thermostat. The handle on the iron body is held by several latches. To remove the handle, it is enough to pry it over the edge with a little effort with a screwdriver blade.
The operation of the thermostat of the Philips iron and any other manufacturer is ensured by the installation of a bimetallic plate, which is a strip of two metals sintered together over the entire surface with different coefficients of linear expansion. As the temperature changes, each of the metals expands to a different extent, and as a result, the plate bends.
In the thermostat, the plate is connected to a bistable switch through a ceramic rod. The principle of its operation is based on the fact that, thanks to a flat curved spring, when passing through the equilibrium point, the contacts instantly open or close. The speed is necessary to reduce the burning of the contacts as a result of the formation of a spark when they open. The switching point of the switch can be changed by turning the knob on the iron body and thus control the heating temperature of the soleplate. When the thermostat switch is turned on and off, a characteristic low click is heard.
To increase the safety of using the iron in case the thermostat breaks down, for example, contacts are welded together, in modern models(there was no thermal fuse in Soviet irons), a FUt thermal fuse is installed, designed for a response temperature of 240 ° C. When this temperature is exceeded, the thermal fuse breaks the circuit and the voltage is no longer supplied to the heating element. In this case, in which position the temperature control knob is located does not matter.
There are three types of thermal fuse designs, as in the photo, and they all work on the principle of contact opening due to bending of the bimetallic plate as a result of heating. In the photo on the left, the thermal fuse of the Philips iron, on the bottom right - Braun. Typically, after the temperature of the sole has dropped below 240 ° C, the thermal fuse is restored. It turns out that the thermal fuse works like a thermostat, but maintains a temperature suitable for ironing only linen items.
To indicate the arrival of the supply voltage to the heating element, a neon lamp HL is connected in parallel to its terminals through a current-limiting resistor R. The indicator does not affect the operation of the iron, but it allows you to judge the performance. If the light is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the heating element winding is in the open or there is poor contact at the place where its terminals are connected to the circuit.
Wiring diagram
The entire electrical circuit of the iron is mounted on the opposite side of the sole made of high-strength aluminum alloy... This photo shows the wiring diagram of a Philips electric iron. Wiring diagrams of irons from other manufacturers and models of irons differ slightly from those shown in the photo.
The supply voltage of 220 V is supplied from the power cord with the help of captive terminals put on pins 3 and 4. Pin 4 is connected to pin 5 and one of the terminals of the heating element. From pin 3, the supply voltage goes to the thermal fuse and then to the iron thermostat, and from it, via the bus, to the second terminal of the heating element. A neon lamp is connected between 1 and 5 pins through a current-limiting resistor. Pin 2 is a ground terminal and is riveted directly to the sole of the iron. All conductive buses of the circuit are made of iron, and in this case it is justified, since the heat generated in the buses goes to heating the iron.
DIY electric iron repair
Attention! Extreme care should be taken when repairing an electric iron or any other electrical household appliance that is plugged into the household network. Touching an unprotected part of the human body to live wires and live parts can cause serious damage to health, including cardiac arrest. Do not forget to unplug the iron from the socket!
To carry out an independent repair of the iron is within the power of any home craftsman, even without experience in repair household appliances... After all, there are few electrical parts in the iron, and you can check them with any indicator or multimeter. Iron is often more difficult to disassemble than to repair. Let's consider the technology of disassembly and repair using the example of two models Philips and Braun.
Irons stop working for one of the following reasons listed by the frequency of cases: a break in the power cord, poor contact of the terminals at the point where the cord is connected to the wiring diagram, oxidation of contacts in the thermostat, thermal fuse malfunction.
Checking the power cord is working
Since during ironing, the power cord is constantly bent and the greatest bend occurs at the point where the cord enters the iron body, at this point the wires in the cord are usually frayed. This malfunction begins to manifest itself when the iron is still heating up normally, but during ironing, the heating on indicator blinks, without being accompanied by the click of the thermostat switch.
If the insulation of the conductors in the cord is frayed, then a short circuit may occur with an external manifestation in the form of a flash of fire with a loud bang and the circuit breaker in the shield is turned off. In this case, you need to unplug the iron cord from the outlet and start repairing it yourself. Short circuit the wires in the iron cord are not dangerous for humans, but the housewives are pretty impressive.
If the iron stops heating up, then first of all you need to check the presence of voltage in the outlet by connecting to it any other electrical device, such as a table lamp, or connect the iron to another outlet. Do not forget to turn the temperature regulator on the iron clockwise before that at least to the first circle on the scale. In the extreme left position of the thermostat knob, the iron can be turned off. If the socket is working properly, and the iron does not heat up, then with the plug of the cord inserted into the network, move it at the point of entry into the iron body, simultaneously pressing, while observing the on indicator. The same operation must be done in the area where the cord enters the power plug. If the indicator lights up even for a moment, it means that there is a wire break in the power cord and you will have to take the iron to a service workshop or repair it yourself.
Using a multimeter or pointer tester
If you have a multimeter or a pointer tester, the power cord can be checked without connecting to the network, which is safer by connecting the test leads of the device included in the resistance measurement mode to the pins of the power plug. A working iron should have a resistance of about 30 ohms. Even a slight change in the reading of the device when the cord moves will indicate the presence of a wire break in it.
If the power cord is frayed at the point of entry into the electrical plug, then you will not need to disassemble the iron, but it will be enough to replace the plug with a new one, cutting it off at the point of damage to the wire.
If the power cord is frayed at the entrance to the iron or the proposed method did not allow to determine the malfunction of the cord, then the iron will have to be disassembled. Dismantling the iron begins with removing the back cover. Difficulties may arise here due to the lack of a suitable bit for the head of self-tapping screws. For example, I don't have bits for a sprocket-like slot with a pin in the center, and I unscrew such self-tapping screws with a flat screwdriver with a suitable blade width. After removing the cover from the iron, all contacts necessary for finding a faulty part in the iron will become available. It will be possible, without further disassembling the iron, to check the integrity of the power cord, the serviceability of the heating element and the thermostat.
As you can see in the photo of the Philips iron, three wires come out of the power cord, which are connected using captive terminals to the terminals of the iron in isolation different colors... The color of the insulation is the marking of the wires.
Although there is no international standard yet, most European and Asian manufacturers of electrical appliances have adopted yellow-green mark the ground wire with the color of the insulation (which is usually denoted in Latin letters PE), brown- phase ( L), light blue- neutral wire ( N). Letter designation is usually applied to the iron body next to the corresponding terminal.
Insulated conductor yellow-green the color is grounding, serves for safety, and does not affect the operation of the iron. Leads are wires in brown and light blue isolation, so they need to be checked.
Using a table lamp
There are many ways to check the power cord of the iron and it all depends on what tools you have home master at hand. If you don't have any instruments at hand, then you can use the simplest method.
To do this, you first need to remove the caps of the cord from the terminals of the iron. The clip-on terminals on the contacts of the iron are usually held by latches and in order for them to be easily removed, it is necessary to squeeze the latch with a sharp object, as shown in the photo. At the same time, at the same time, it is necessary to inspect the contacts for oxidation or burning, and if there are any, clean the contacts from the bottom and top to a shine with fine sandpaper. If the terminals are put on without effort, then you need to tighten them using pliers. Step-by-step instruction the repair of terminal connections in the photographs is given in the article "Restoring the contact of the terminals". After that, you need to put the terminals into place and check the operation of the iron by connecting it to the network. It is quite possible that this was the malfunction and the iron will work.
If the terminal connections are in order, then you need to remove the terminals attached to the brown and blue wires and connect them to the pins of the plug of any electrical appliance using insulating tape, it is best for this table lamp with an incandescent or LED light bulb. The switch in the desk lamp must be in the on position. After that, plug the iron into the network and wrinkle the iron wire at the point where it enters the body and at the plug. If the table lamp shines steadily, it means that the iron wire is working properly and you will have to continue looking for a malfunction.
With phase indicator
Checking a tubular electric heater (TEN)
Heating elements fail in irons extremely rarely, and if the heating elements are faulty, then the iron has to be thrown away. To check the heating element, it is enough to remove only the back cover from it. Usually, the terminals of the heating element are connected to the extreme terminals and, as a rule, the terminals of the heating indicator are connected to the same terminals. Therefore, if the indicator is on, but there is no heating, then the reason for this may be an open coil of the heating element or poor contact at the welding points of the iron leads to the contact rods coming out of the heating element.
There are models of irons, such as the Braun model, shown in the photograph, in which the thermostat is included in the gap of one output of the heating element, and the thermal fuse in the gap of the other. In this case, if the thermal fuse is faulty, then an erroneous conclusion can be made about the heating element malfunction. The final conclusion about the state of the heating element can be made only after complete disassembly iron.
Checking the health of the iron thermostat
In order to get to the thermostat for checking, you need to disassemble the iron completely. The iron handle and the plastic part of the body are attached to its metal part with screws and latches. There are a huge number of models of irons, even from one manufacturer, and the methods of fastening in each of them are different, but there are general rules.
One attachment point is usually located in the area of the iron spout and the plastic case is fixed with a self-tapping screw, as in this photo of the Philips iron. In this model, the self-tapping screw is located under the steam volume adjustment knob. To get to the head of the self-tapping screw, you need to turn the handle counterclockwise until it stops and pull it up. After removing the steam adjustment unit, the self-tapping screw can be unscrewed.
On the Braun model I had to repair, the screw was hidden under the decorative cap of the water nozzle. To unscrew the self-tapping screw, I had to remove the nozzle. It just fits snugly. By the way, so it can be removed for cleaning in case of clogging.
The second attachment point is usually located in the area where the power cord comes in. The plastic body of the iron can be fastened either with self-tapping screws or with latches. The Philips iron shown in the photo uses a threaded mounting method. Fastening with self-tapping screws from the point of view of the maintainability of the iron is preferable, since during disassembly the risk of damage to the fasteners of the plastic case is reduced.
And in the Braun iron model, the plastic part of the case with the handle is secured with two latches hooked onto the lugs. For disassembly, you need to disengage the latches by spreading them to the sides.
This work must be done carefully so as not to break the latches and lugs. The latches are disengaged and the body part with the handle can now be detached from the iron. It, in turn, is attached to the adapter cover with screws or flags.
In this photo of a Philips iron, the lid is secured to the soleplate with three self-tapping screws. Before unscrewing the screws, you need to remove the on indicator, which is held with the help of captive terminals on the iron terminals.
And on the Braun iron, the lid is fixed to the soleplate with four metal flags threaded through the slots and turned. To release the cover, you need to turn the flags with pliers so that they become along the slots. In this iron, two flags at the spout rusted completely, and I had to bend a special adapter from a steel strip and cut two threads in it for screw fastening.
After removing the cover, the thermostat assembly will become available for continuity and repair. First of all, you need to inspect the condition of the contacts. The Philips iron also has a thermal fuse in the thermostat assembly. In a cold state, the contacts must be closed.
If appearance contacts does not cause suspicion, then you need to ring them using a dial tester or multimeter, included in the minimum resistance measurement mode. The photo on the left shows the circuit for the continuity of the contacts of the thermal fuse, and on the right - the thermostat. The multimeter should read zero. If the multimeter shows 1, and the pointer tester is infinity, then there is a malfunction in the contacts, they are oxidized and require cleaning.
The check of the contacts of the thermostat unit can also be checked using the indicator for finding the phase according to the method of checking the power cord described above, touching one and the other contacts in sequence. If the indicator shines when touching one contact, but not to the other, then the contacts are oxidized.
You can do without checking by immediately cleaning the contacts of the thermostat and thermal fuse sandpaper... Then turn on the iron, it should work.
If there are no devices at hand for checking the contacts, then you can turn on the iron and use a screwdriver blade with a well-insulated plastic handle to short-circuit the contacts. If the indicator lights up and the iron starts to heat up, then the contacts are burnt. Do not forget about extreme caution.
To clean the contacts, you need to put a narrow strip of fine sandpaper between the contacts and stretch it a dozen times. Then turn the strip 180 ° and clean the second contact of the contact pair. It is useful to clean the thermostat contacts to extend the life of the iron if, for example, during the repair of the steam supply system, the iron had to be disassembled.
Examples of self-repairing irons
Recently I had to repair two faulty irons brand Braun and Philips. I will describe the faults that had to be eliminated.
Braun Electric Iron Repair
The iron did not heat up, the indicator did not light at any position of the thermostat adjustment knob. When bending the power cord, the iron did not show signs of operation.
After removing the back cover, it was found that the supply voltage is supplied through terminal block... Access to the plug-in terminals was difficult. Wire marking was in accordance with generally accepted color coding. The iron had already been repaired earlier, as evidenced by the broken off left latch on the terminal block.
The external view of the removed terminal block is shown in the photo. It also has a neon lamp to indicate the supply voltage to the heating element.
The power supply input terminal rails were covered in places with an oxide film of rust. This could not cause the iron to break down, which was confirmed by connecting it after removing traces of rust from the contacts with sandpaper.
After completely disassembling the iron, the thermal fuse and the thermostat contacts were ringed using a multimeter. The thermal fuse shows a resistance of zero ohms, and the thermostat contacts - infinity.
Inspection showed that the contacts were tightly adjacent to each other, and it became obvious that the reason for the failure lies in the oxidation of their surfaces. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper, the contact was restored. The iron began to heat up normally.
Philips electric iron repair
I got my Philips iron for repair after the owner cleaned the steam system. The thermostat was not working and the iron was heating up to the thermal cutout temperature.
After completely disassembling the iron, it was found that the ceramic pusher, which should be located between the bimetallic plate and the thermostat switch, is missing. As a result, the bimetallic plate was bent, but its movement was not transmitted to the switch, so the contacts were constantly closed.
The old iron, from which the pusher could be removed, was not at hand, there was no opportunity to buy a new one, and I had to think about what to make it from. But before making a pusher with your own hands, it was required to determine its length. The bimetallic plate and the switch had coaxial holes with a diameter of 2 mm, in which the standard pusher was previously fixed. To determine the length of the pusher, it was necessary to take an M2 screw and two nuts. To fix the screw, instead of the pusher, it was necessary to raise the thermostat by unscrewing one self-tapping screw.
Attention! The bimetallic plate comes into contact with the soleplate of the iron and has good electrical contact with it. The switch plate is connected to electrical network... The screw is metal and is a good conductor electric current... Therefore, touching the soleplate of the iron when carrying out the described adjustment should only be carried out with the iron plug removed from the socket!
The screw was inserted into the hole of the bimetallic plate from below, as in the photo, and secured with a nut. Owing to the possibility of clockwise or counterclockwise rotation of the second nut, it became possible to adjust the height of the pusher simulator in order to adjust the thermostat to maintain the set temperature control knob.
The length of the pusher at which the heating temperature of the iron corresponds to the set position of the adjustment knob can be selected by doing test ironing. But for this you will have to assemble and disassemble the iron every time. It is much easier to use an electronic thermometer. Many multimeters have an external thermocouple temperature measurement function.
To measure the temperature of the sole, you need to put the handle on the thermostat and set it to the position marked with one, two or three circles opposite the pointer on the iron body. Next, fix the thermocouple on the soleplate of the iron, fix the soleplate in an upright position and turn on the iron. When the temperature of the sole stops changing, take a reading.
As a result of the experiment, it was determined that a pusher with a length of about 8 mm was required. Since the iron inside the body can be heated to a temperature of 240 ° C, the pusher had to be made of a heat-resistant material. A resistor caught my eye and I remembered that in it a resistive layer is applied to a ceramic tube. The 0.25 W resistor is just the right size, and its shortened copper leads threaded through the holes will serve well as clamps.
The resistor will fit any value. Before installing in the iron, the resistor was heated to red on the gas column burner and the burnt paint layer and resistor spraying were removed using sandpaper. Everything has been removed down to the ceramics. If you use a resistor with a nominal value of more than 1 megohm, of which you need to be 100% sure, then you can not remove the paint and the resistive layer.
After preparation, the resistor was installed instead of the ceramic spacer and the ends of the bends were slightly bent to the sides. The iron has been assembled and carried out re-check the operation of the thermostat, which confirmed that the maintenance of the temperature by the thermostat is ensured within the limits of the data given in the table.
What is the maximum temperature that my Philips iron can reach?
When calibrating the thermostat, I decided at the same time to find out what the maximum temperature an electric iron can heat up.
For this, the leads of the thermostat and thermal fuse were short-circuited. As you can see in the photo, the device showed 328 ° С. When the sole was heated to this temperature, the iron had to be turned off for fear that its plastic part could be damaged.
So, during the ironing process, you plugged the plug into the outlet, but after a few minutes you realized that the iron does not heat up. In this case, it is not necessary to throw out the equipment and go to the store for a new one, because sometimes the cause of the breakdown is quite simple and does not require professional skills in the repair of electrical appliances. Next, we will consider what to do if the iron stops heating up, as well as how to repair existing breakdowns with our own hands.
Where to begin?
To begin with, you must visually inspect the case for cracks, defects and traces of melting of the case. Perhaps the appearance will immediately show what exactly is the cause of the iron breakdown. If the inspection did not give anything, you need to completely disassemble the case for self-diagnosis of all the constituent elements.
We draw your attention to the fact that it is sometimes quite difficult to disassemble the iron. This is due to the fact that every year manufacturers devote more time to the design of an electrical appliance, creating invisible latches and screw holes. Initially, prepare a set of screwdrivers and a knife that will be useful to you for further actions.
Video instruction for disassembling the case
Power cord
One of the main malfunctions of the iron is precisely the power cord, which you, in fact, plug into the outlet. 
Get to the point where the contacts are connected to the heating element and if there are no visible faults, use a tester to ring the cord to determine its operability. 
For continuity, you can use one consisting of a piece of wire, a battery and a light bulb. If the light is on when you connect the contacts to both ends of the cord, go ahead.
If the power cord is the cause of a breakdown, you can try to shorten it by 10-15 cm (the problem area may be removed). Iron doesn't work anyway? We replace the cord with a new one!
The second in line is the thermostat. We also check it using a dial tone, which we attach to the contact group.
When the temperature control is rotated towards the closed circuit, the electrical circuit should function. Is the light off? We clean the contacts with sandpaper and check again. Immediately we recommend watching the video repair instructions:
How to repair a temperature controller
Is the thermostat working, but the iron does not heat up? Let's start checking the thermal fuse!
More often than a power cord, this element of the circuit fails. Its main purpose is to disconnect the electrical circuit if the temperature of the heating element exceeds the nominal value. 
Using the dial tone, we determine the performance of the fuse. If the reason for the breakdown of the iron is in it, we replace it with a new one, or even remove it from the circuit altogether. During normal operation of the temperature controller, there is no need for a fuse.
Heating element (TEN)
Well, the last of the reasons why the iron does not work is the failure of the heating element. If the equipment turns on, the light is on, but the sole does not heat up to the required temperature, most likely this is the case. As in previous cases, using a homemade tester, we determine the performance of the product. A heating element is fixed to the sole and if the attachment point is one-piece, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to the purchase (if the reason is in it). 
In the event that the heating element is connected to the sole with the help of tips, you can try to repair the iron with your own hands by cleaning the contacts with sandpaper. Still not heating up? We send the equipment for recycling, because a new part costs almost the full cost of the device!
We draw your attention to the fact that if you throw the equipment into the trash, it will be more correct to disconnect the power cord and keep it for yourself. Perhaps this element will be useful to you in subsequent repairs, especially since it will not take up much space in the closet!
Steaming system
If the malfunction is that the iron steamer does not work, then, most likely, it is necessary to clean the internal vaporization cavities. To do this, we recommend that you use a solution of water and vinegar in a ratio of 1 liter to 1 glass. We install the sole in the container (as shown in the picture), bring the water on the stove to a boil, turn it off and wait until it cools down. After that, we repeat the event 3 more times, which is quite enough for high-quality cleaning of the spray bottle.
In stores you can see special means for descaling, but we highly do not recommend using them. This is due to the high cost of funds and at the same time low efficiency, compared with folk way! It should also be noted that on thematic forums there are many negative reviews about the iron not working after cleaning with salt. This is due to the fact that salt crystals clog the holes for the steam supply, as a result of which you have to thoroughly clean the sole.
