How to build drywall walls. How to properly sheathe walls with drywall - technology and steps

A popular way to divide the space of an apartment or room into parts is to build it filled with mineral wool and sheathed with plasterboard, that is, slabs with a gypsum core pasted over with durable building cardboard. This is a fairly simple system that you can install yourself. How about profiles?

All about the installation of plasterboard partitions:

Which drywall is suitable

First of all, you need to choose materials suitable for your tasks.

Kinds

For the decoration of city apartments and country houses, the following types are used:

• Usual. It is designed for rooms where the content of water vapor in the air is 30-60%.
• Moisture resistant, which is easily recognizable by the characteristic green color of the cardboard. It can be used for rooms with humidity up to 75%, primarily in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.
• Flame retardant, fire and moisture resistant, impact resistant. These are specialized products that are less commonly used in private homes. Meanwhile, impact-resistant material is a good choice for rooms where there is a possibility of mechanical impact on the walls - children's rooms, corridors. It is also suitable for supports on which it is planned to hang heavy furniture.

GKL dimensions

On sale you can find sheets with the following parameters (mm):

• Width 600 or 1200
• Length from 2000 to 4000
• Thickness 6.5; eight; 9.5; 12.5; 14; sixteen; eighteen; twenty

A popular size among consumers is 1200x2500, since larger products are more difficult to transport and move at the facility. Experts recommend taking plates with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm for sheathing to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure. Thin products are more easily damaged, they isolate sound worse and you can’t even hang a light shelf on them.

Calculation of the number of layers

The frame is sheathed on each side with one, two or three layers of sheet material. The more, the stronger and more rigid the structure and the better its soundproofing properties - due to massiveness. But the higher its cost. Therefore, the optimal solution for a living space is two layers on each side of the structure.

Calculation of the number of sheets

How many slabs will be needed for finishing? The calculation is simple: we calculate the total area of ​​​​the interior wall on one side, without openings. If we make the sheathing in one layer, then we multiply the resulting value by two (after all, the wall has two sides). If two layers, then four. We divide this figure by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone GKL. For example, for a product with a size of 2500x1200, it is 3 m 2. Do not forget about the margin, its coefficient depends on the size of the room. When its dimensions are less than 10 m 2, it is 1.3, when less than 20 m 2 - 1.2, when more than 20 m 2 - 1.1. We multiply the previously obtained figure by this coefficient, round it up to the nearest integer and get the required number of plates.

How to choose profile sizes

Partitions are constructed from - horizontal (guides) and vertical (rack-mount). They are U-shaped, made of galvanized steel. Their parameters (mm):

• Cross-section of guides - 50x40, 75x40, 100x40, rack-mount - 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
• Length - 3000, 3500, 4000.
• Thickness - from 0.5 to 2.

The size of the product is chosen based on the planned loads, sound insulation requirements, etc. Please note: the rack must fit snugly into the guide. For example, for a horizontal element with a section of 50x40, vertical sections of 50x50 are suitable.

Often, to save the area of ​​​​the apartment, the wall is made only 7-8 cm on a frame of galvanized steel profiles 50 × 50. Such a system is highly susceptible to vibrations, and 0.5 cm thick mineral wool is not enough to comply with building codes for sound insulation (41 dB).

The system should be assembled from 50x70 or 50x100 elements. You can also take dry knotless wooden blocks - some experts believe that this option is even better in terms of airborne sound insulation.

In addition, the thickness of the profile is also important. For the inner wall, designs of at least 0.6 mm are chosen. If you use thinner parts, then when fixing the plates, the screws can scroll, which reduces the strength of the structure. There are already products on the market, but they have insufficient rigidity and therefore should not be used. Otherwise, there is a risk of sagging.

What materials and tools will be needed

materials

1. Sound-absorbing mats - usually made of (stone fibre)
2. Damper (sealing) tape
3. Dowel-nails
4. Anchor wedges
5. Self-tapping screws with a press washer
6. Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) with a countersunk head
7. acrylic primer
8. Gypsum or polymer putty
9. Reinforcing paper tape

How to make a drywall partition with your own hands

Installation of drywall can be carried out only after the completion of all "wet" work at the facility. If the air in the room is abundantly saturated with moisture, then the plates will absorb it and may deform.

In addition, it is not recommended to proceed with installation immediately after the delivery of the GKL to the facility. After all, they were stored, most likely, in a damp, unheated room. If in a heated room they are immediately placed vertically and fixed on a base, they will begin to dry out unevenly, which is fraught with their curvature and the appearance of cracks on the wall surface. It is worth waiting at least 24 hours (and preferably 3-4 days), placing the material in a horizontal position, and only then proceed to the main work.

markup

The first stage is the layout of the design layout. It is performed using a laser level or ruler in combination with a coloring chopping cord. First, mark the place under the partition and the doorway on the floor. Then, using a laser device or a plumb line, the contour of the structure is transferred to the walls and ceiling.

Installing guides

• Ensure that the guides are firmly attached to the base.
• Prevent the spread of vibration from the structure of the house by improving sound insulation.

To the floor and walls, horizontal beams are fixed with dowel-nails 6x40. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 100 cm (optimally - about 40 cm), moreover, at least three dowel-nails should fall on one guide. The holes for them are made with a puncher. Nails are driven with a screwdriver or - if you have experience - with the same puncher. They are recommended to be fixed to the ceiling with anchor wedges in pre-drilled holes.

You can cut the frame parts with metal shears (mechanical, electric) or an angle grinder. But be extremely careful. Burrs after cutting with scissors, as well as protruding heads of self-tapping screws, can cause irregularities. Meanwhile, the design is not designed for plastering, and with putty it is possible to “bring out” small tubercles and pits. At the same time, continuous puttying will significantly increase the complexity of the work.

Rack erection

Usually the pitch of the vertical supports is 60 cm. In the case of a high design load on this wall or a ceiling height of more than 4 m, the pitch is reduced to 40 cm. You can also increase the rigidity this way: make a rack of two profiles installed end to end and fastened with press washers . It can also be strengthened by horizontal jumpers. Vertical supports should be 1 cm less than the height of the room - for ease of installation and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the building. If the product is shorter than necessary, it is lengthened. To do this, one element is placed on another with an overlap of at least 50 cm and connected with self-tapping screws. In the frame, the overlaps are spaced apart in order to prevent weakening of the structure and, as a result, the appearance of cracks.

Some craftsmen fasten vertical and horizontal beams with self-tapping screws with press washers. It is not right. The hats will be turned towards the room, they will bulge and interfere during sheathing, which will ultimately adversely affect the reliability of the entire system. Alternatively, you can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws before completing the assembly of the base. And then immediately before finishing the GKL, gradually unscrew them. But this will increase the installation time.

The optimal solution is a cutter. He will connect the parts by cutting with a bend. Such fasteners do not interfere with subsequent installation. We add that the vertical supports must be leveled before fixing.

A technical error is the absence of cushioning layers between the partition and the main walls, ceilings. In this case, structural noise is transmitted to it. It is advisable to fasten the guides to the walls, ceiling and floor through elastic gaskets (made of porous rubber, cork, polyethylene foam), which will dampen vibration, make the structure more airtight and thereby help to increase the level of acoustic comfort in the rooms. In a new building, joints filled with elastic material compensate for shrinkage deformations of building elements.

Creating a doorway

Most often, it is performed using standard profiles, inside which wooden blocks are placed for reinforcement. You can also connect two racks into a box or install a special profile element 2 mm thick, which has increased strength and is suitable for massive ones. Above the opening, a horizontal jumper from a cut frame part is provided. The jumper is leveled and fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws.

An important point: you need to mark the places for the racks so that subsequently the joints do not fall on the vertical beams framing the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks appearing around it.

Soundproofing and communications

Holes for electrical wiring are cut out in the racks before installation. Cables are pulled in corrugated pipes. Holes in the GKL for socket boxes are made with metal crowns - nozzles for a screwdriver.

The space between the posts is filled with sound-absorbing mats or mineral wool rolls. They are selected based on the width of the frame.

As for the choice of rolled mineral wool, a product with a density of at least 40 kg / m 3 is suitable. Cotton wool of lesser density eventually cakes and settles.

sheathing

When performing it, the following rules must be observed:

• Use self-tapping screws of the correct length. The calculation is as follows: length \u003d sheet thickness + profile + 1 cm (for this amount, the fasteners must go into the metal part). That is, for a single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long are used, for a two-layer one - 3.5 cm long.
• When screwing, the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the GKL strictly by 1 mm. If you do not tighten them, then they will become an obstacle when puttying. If you twist them, they can damage the core of the product, and the fastening will be unreliable. A cheap way to set the desired depth is with a limiter nozzle for a conventional screwdriver. Professionals, on the other hand, prefer a screwdriver with a limited screwing depth.
• The installation step of the screws is no more than 25 cm. To prevent the plate from crumbling, they must be screwed in at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from its end edge and at least 1 cm from the longitudinal one.
• Often the height of the structure is greater than the length of the plasterboard. Then, with a single-layer sheathing, the plates adjacent vertically are joined on an additional jumper. Moreover, horizontally adjacent ones are mounted with an offset of 40-60 cm. When finishing in two layers, jumpers can be neglected, but the elements of the second layer should overlap the joints of the first and be spaced apart from each other.
• To avoid the appearance of cracks, it is necessary to leave a gap between the plates and the floor of at least 1 cm. A small gap is also left from above, and a separating tape can be glued at the junction of the sheathing to the ceiling.
• Drywall is cut with a special hacksaw or a construction or clerical knife. When working with a hacksaw, there will be dust and the cut will be sloppy. And when using a knife - neat and dust-free. However, it is impossible to remove the edges from the sheets with a knife at their joints (as required by the installation technology): the cut will be uneven. The edges are removed with a special plane having an angle of 22.5°. This allows you to make a joint of materials at 45 °. If it is necessary to align the edge of the cut layer, a peeling planer is used.
• The doorway is first completely closed with a sheathing, which is then cut along the uprights and the lintel - it is easier to provide the desired geometry. Thus, the upper part of the opening is always formed by L-shaped elements in order to prevent the occurrence of cracks.

The issues of redevelopment of one's own housing do not arise from scratch. They appear among apartment owners along with the desire to divide the living space with the help of partitions and internal walls. Children of different sexes, professions and even hobbies of family members, as well as the housing itself, acquired in the form of a single concrete box, can become an incentive for adapting diverse premises to the tasks of comfortable living.

It is clear that in one article you cannot talk about all the ways of dividing space - there are a lot of them. But it’s a sin not to tell about one of them, if only because detailed instructions on building a plasterboard partition will help everyone to master the skills of building lightweight, durable and reliable structures.

• Preparation for work;
• Marking the floor, walls and ceiling;
• Installation of guide profiles - PN (UW);
• Installation of vertical racks from a rack profile - PS (CW);
• Installation of jumpers (door and window openings);
• Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets on one side;
• Laying the necessary communications: electric cable, pipelines;
• Laying (in the space between racks) and fixing thermal insulation;
• Sheathing of the frame on the reverse side;
• Finishing work.

Try to leave behind all the wet processes associated with the preparation and use of mortars before the start of work, and clean the installation area of ​​the future partition from debris, mortar influx, foreign objects and protect it from sudden temperature changes.

If you have a smooth screed and well-plastered and puttied walls - consider yourself lucky - this is an ideal base for mounting a metal frame.

2. Materials and tools

In order not to be distracted by shopping trips in the process of work, we stock up on the following materials:

• Guide profile (for attaching the structure to the floor and ceiling);
• Rack profile (for vertical installation as the main bearing element);
• Wall drywall 12.5 mm (for single-layer sheathing of the frame);
• Dowel-nails (for attaching the frame to a concrete and brick base);
• Wood screws (for fixing the profile to a wooden base);
• "Bedbugs" or "seeds" (for attaching frame elements);
• Wooden beam (to reinforce the frame at the installation sites of door frames);
• Sealing tape;
• Gypsum-based putty;
• Acrylic primer.

Types of profiles for plasterboard partitions:

For the cost of materials, we turn to the online calculator. Data to be entered: the length of the partition, its width and the number of skin layers.

We acquire the following tools:

• Level (bubble or laser);
• Roulette;
• Plumb (for transferring marks from the floor to the ceiling);
• Marker or pencil;
• Rope;
• Screwdriver;
• Perforator with a drill (in the presence of reinforced concrete walls or ceilings);
• Scissors for metal;
• Hammer (for driving expansion nails);
• Construction knife.

3. Partition marking

The profile will need two types: Mon and PS. The first is cut with scissors for metal and attached to the floor and ceiling. Prior to its trimming and installation, floor markings are performed. It is noted on it: the design thickness of the wall (according to the pieces of cardboard attached to the profile), the binding of the racks, window and door openings. Between the racks of the doorway, a gap in the guide profile is provided.

Partition marking methods are given below:

3.1 Marking a perpendicular (90° angle)

Most often, a drywall partition is erected perpendicular to the existing wall, so it becomes necessary to draw a line at an angle of 90 °.

This task can be accomplished in several ways, which we will discuss in detail below.

a) Egyptian triangle method

egyptian triangle is a triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5. It is very important that the Egyptian triangle always has a right angle. For example, a triangle with sides of 15 cm, 20 cm and 25 cm is Egyptian and, accordingly, rectangular.

In order to set aside the perpendicular, we need to build an Egyptian triangle, one of the legs of which will lie on the load-bearing wall. An example of construction is given below:

The figure above uses a triangle with sides: 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 m. You may find it more convenient to build a larger or smaller triangle. The main thing is to catch the essence: we take a certain conditional length of the segment, for example, 0.5 m, then we multiply this number by 3, by 4 and by 5, and thus we get the lengths of the sides of our triangle: 1.5 m, 2.0 m and 2.5 m

We carry out the construction: we put the point "A" - the base of our perpendicular, then after 1.5 m along the tape measure we set aside the point "B". From point "B" we draw an arc with a radius of 2.5 m, for this you can use a nylon rope and a pencil, and from point "A" we similarly draw an arc with a radius of 2.0 m.

The point of intersection of the arcs - "C" will be the third vertex of the Egyptian triangle. Segment AC will be perpendicular to segment AB, and, accordingly, to the bearing wall. Then, using a metal profile or a nylon cord, you can extend the AC line to the opposite wall. Accordingly, the line AD will be perpendicular to the bearing wall, which is what we need.

b) Perpendicular with a square

This method is less accurate than the first one. This is due to the fact that the square is small and any unevenness of the wall can affect the final result.

For marking, we apply the square with the short side to the bearing wall, and draw a line along the long side, then this line is extended to the opposite wall.

This method is suitable for flat walls and small marking areas.

c) Perpendicular with a tape measure

Set aside equal segments from the existing wall, as shown in the figure above. This method is also not completely accurate, since existing walls may have flaws and not be perpendicular to each other. However, you can combine the methods, and check the perpendicular obtained using a tape measure with a square.

3.2 Transferring marks from floor to ceiling

After marking the base of the partition, it is necessary to transfer these marks to the ceiling. There are also several ways to do this.

a) With a plumb line

This method is clearly shown in the figure below. The more points you transfer from the floor to the ceiling, the more accurate the final result will be. We draw a line through the transferred points using a profile, it is also very convenient to use a coloring (chopping) cord.

b) Using a bubble level:

Using the bubble level, you can only move the extreme points located near the walls. The method is less accurate than using a plumb bob.

4. Marking a plasterboard partition using a laser level

Above, we examined the methods of marking a partition from a gypsum board using the most accessible tools. However, if you have a laser level in your arsenal, then it can replace both the plumb line, the bubble level and the Egyptian triangle method.

Laser levels come in various modifications, but as a rule, they are able to build three mutually perpendicular planes. The projections of these planes in the form of a beam are reflected on the walls, floor and ceiling.

These beams are used for marking and further installation of the profile. An example of marking a partition using a laser level is presented in the video:

After marking the partitions, they proceed to the installation of the guide profile.

5. Installation of the guide profile (PN)

Before mounting the guide profile, a sealing tape is glued to its back surface. It is designed to soften the vibrations of the metal structure, dampen sound vibrations, increase the sound-absorbing properties of the frame:

PN profile with a glued seal, it is aligned along the marking line and fixed to a wooden (or concrete) base using self-tapping screws (or dowel nails) with a pitch of 500 mm. Holes in the floor and ceiling are drilled directly through the profile.

The profile is cut with scissors for metal:

Over time, 3 finishing layers will appear along the edges of the frame: plasterboard sheathing (12.5 mm thick), as well as a layer of putty and finish, which will increase the overall thickness of the wall. This feature of the construction of a single-layer partition must be taken into account when marking and linking the wall to the floor plan.

6. Installation of the rack profile (PS)

Racks are made from PS profile 3000 or 4000 mm long. Due to the ribbed surface and curved edges, it has greater bending rigidity. Its width in the design of the partition depends on the height of the repaired premises, the weight of wall items and gypsum boards.

In kitchens, corridors and hallways (in rooms with high traffic), a stronger profile with a width of 75 or 100 mm is installed. A pair of such racks (PS-100) can withstand a door weighing up to 30 kg. When installing more massive structures, the UA profile is used - a reinforced version of the rack profile with a thickened wall. When installing the UA-profile, the maximum allowable weight of the door leaf is increased to 70 kg.

Vertical racks are fixed along the edges of the guide profile. They are cut so that a damper gap of 10 mm is formed between the tops of the supports and the ceiling profile, designed for shrinkage of the building.

Be prepared for the fact that the profile may bend in the places of the cut. In case of deformation of the support legs, take pliers in your hands and trim their edges.

After cutting, each of the racks is attached to the lower profile, and then, like a support on a hinge, it is tucked with its free end into the upper guide, aligned vertically and screwed to the PN profile using self-tapping screws.

Similarly, ordinary racks and racks are installed that form the base of the doorway. The difference in their installation is as follows: the former, as a rule, obey the standard step of 400 or 600 mm (because the width of the drywall sheet is 1200 mm), while the latter are installed directly in place and tied to the width of the doorway.

The marking of the axes of ordinary racks starts from the edge of the wall. From it to the center of the first rack (during their alignment and installation, the tail of the tape measure can be hooked onto the edge of the guide profile) and the central axes of other supports are set aside by 600 mm. With a cut chamfer on the edge sheet, the distance to the first post is reduced to 550 mm.

In the case of an increased load on the frame (when tiling the wall, hanging heavy cabinets, boilers, heating radiators on it), the distance between the racks is reduced to 400 mm, remaining a multiple of 1200 mm.

With the above steps of the frame racks, drywall sheets are joined in the middle of the profile.

7. Ways to strengthen the frame

To reinforce the door frame inside the PS-profile (facing the front side into the opening), wooden blocks are placed or, as mentioned above, a UA-profile is installed. The cross section of the bars is selected according to the size of the reinforced profile.

To strengthen the design of the partition, the following methods are resorted to: reduce the step between the racks (up to 400 mm), use wooden embedded bars (to reinforce the rack profile), use a paired PS profile.

An additional profile installed inside or near the rack also reinforces the bulkhead structure. In the attachment points of attachments, the frame is reinforced with embedded elements in the form of wooden blocks or pieces of plywood 2-3 cm thick, which are fixed between the racks with the help of crabs or semi-crabs.

8. Making a doorway, installing crossbars

The upper part of the doorway is formed using a guide profile (PN). It is cut so that its design length is 30 cm more than the width of the opening. On the outer side of the resulting workpiece, two marks are made at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the crossbar.

Both risks should be visible on the sidewalls of the profile: it is along them that it is cut in the direction from the edges of the sidewalls to the mark on the bend of the profile. After that, both edges of the profile are bent at a right angle. It turns out a U-shaped crossbar, which easily moves along the racks and is also easily screwed to them with the help of self-tapping screws - “bugs”. See photo below:

Below are the schemes for installing the profile and sheathing with drywall sheets in the area of ​​​​the doorway:

The joint of drywall sheets should not fall on the rack to which the door frame is attached

Similarly, horizontal crossbars are made. They are used both to reinforce the frame and to join drywall sheets with a significant height of the partition. Therefore, for high walls, it is recommended to make 2-3 rows of horizontal crossbars.

Please note that according to all the rules for fixing the jumpers, the shanks of adjacent bars are bent in different directions (up / down), and the crossbars themselves are staggered (with a seam spacing of at least 40 mm). This is done so that the horizontal joints of adjacent sheets do not have coincidences and cruciform seams.

9. Fasteners for the construction of plasterboard partitions

1) To fix the profile to concrete slabs and brick walls, fast mounting dowels with a dimension of 6x40-80 mm are used. They are screwed along the edges and placed at a distance of 40-50 mm from each other. Shorter analogues with a dimension of 6x40 mm are used to fix the profile to hollow slabs.

The same fastener, but with L = 60 mm, just as reliably attaches it to brick, and with L = 80 mm - to hollow brick and plastered walls. Nylon dowels of both are inserted into the drilled (through the profile) holes. Spacer nails are hammered in with a hammer or puncher.

2) To assemble the frame, self-tapping screws for metal with a drill size of 13x3.5 mm (seeds) are suitable. It takes an average of 4 such self-tapping screws to install one rack. If you want to save on fasteners, then choose short self-tapping screws with a sharp, rather than a drill tip.

Also, profiles can be connected using a cutter:

3) Larger hardware 3.5x25 mm with flat caps and fine thread pitch is suitable for fastening drywall to a finished metal frame. They are wrapped in the center of the panel and along its perimeter (at a distance of 10-12 mm from the edge). Hats are sunk into the sheet so that they do not break through the cardboard. The sheet takes an average of 60 to 70 screws.

10. Frame sheathing

For sheathing the frame, drywall sheets with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm with a side chamfer are suitable. The latter makes it possible to reinforce the joints with self-adhesive sickle and fill them with high-strength putty.

By the presence of a bevel, as by a marker, the front side of the sheet is determined. Each of them is screwed to three support posts: to two - along the edges and to one - in the center. In this case, the joints of the sheets pass in the middle of the profile. In wet rooms, moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV) is used instead of conventional panels.

In the absence of a factory chamfer, for example, when using drywall scraps, the chamfer must be done independently using a construction knife and a special grater (planer):

When sheathing the partition with two layers of drywall, the sheets of the second row are shifted horizontally by a step of racks, and vertically by at least 400 mm, and a similar shift of the sheets is also done when installing the first row of drywall, but on the reverse side of the structure.

The layout of drywall sheets with a two-layer sheathing of the partition

When installing a partition with a height of 3.0 m or less, as a rule, there are no horizontal joints of sheets.

To create a gap near the floor, the sheets are supported on a temporary gasket 10 mm thick and fixed with self-tapping screws.

By trimming the upper edge, a gap is obtained at the ceiling (10 mm wide). Both gaps help protect the structure from premature failure.

It is important to ensure that the beveled edges of the sheets to be mounted are located in the center of the uprights, the shorter edges are along the axis of the crossbars, and the skin seams do not converge at the corners of the door frame.

When fixing drywall sheets with self-tapping screws, the following rules should be followed:

• The distance between the screws should not exceed 250 mm (but with two-layer sheathing for the first row, this value can be increased to 750 mm);
• The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the profile at a right angle;
• The head of the self-tapping screw should be recessed into the GKL sheet by 1 mm and not tear the cardboard;
• The body of the self-tapping screw must enter the metal structure by at least 10 mm;
• The vertical displacement of self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets must be at least 10 mm;
• When mounting self-tapping screws, it is necessary to retreat at least 15 mm from the longitudinal edge of the sheet, and 10 mm from the end edge.

The photo above shows that the distance between the screws should be no more than 250 mm, and the offset of the screws on adjacent sheets should be at least 10 mm

On the left - the correct position of the screw in the drywall sheet, on the right - the incorrect position of the screw: a) the screw is twisted at an angle b) the screw is set too deep c) the screw is not set deep enough

The chamfers of the sheets are joined in the center of the racks, and the short edges of the panels are joined along the axis of the jumpers. If the joints of the latter coincide, then the longitudinal line of the cross-shaped seam will become a source of cracking. And no, even the highest quality finish, will not help here. Therefore, they are joined with a run-up (with a shift) of seams of at least 40 cm.

To cut a sheet of drywall, it must be laid on a flat surface and marked with a pencil. A construction knife with replaceable blades is used to cut the top layer of cardboard. Then the sheet must be turned over gently break along the cut line. Then the cardboard is cut from the second side of the sheet (photo below):

Immediately after sheathing the frame on one side, you can start drilling holes (Ø35 mm) in the profile posts. They are useful for those who lay electrical cables inside the wall. So that the sharp edges of the slots do not damage the braid, they are bent, and the wiring itself is laid in the corrugation.

Also on the building materials market there is a profile with ready-made holes for laying communications.

Holes for sockets and switches are cut using round crowns. You can read more about this.

11. Soundproofing partitions

Thermal insulation is laid in the space between the racks. Styrofoam, mineral wool, isover, and expanded polystyrene act as a filler and an artificial barrier for acoustic waves.

Do not forget about the metal frame, which, as you know, is a good conductor of sound. When connecting its parts, special polymer gaskets are used, and a sealing tape is glued under the guide profiles.

The filler is cut and tightly stuffed between the racks (this is done after sheathing the frame on one side, laying all communications, installing sockets and switches).

The thickness of the insulation is selected so that its surface does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the frame. Otherwise, you will definitely encounter violations of the geometry of the skin when the drywall bulges.

After laying the insulation, the second side of the partition is sewn.

12. Finishing the partition

The joints of drywall sheets are reinforced with a special tape - sickle. Serpyanka has an adhesive surface, so it is glued to drywall sheets without any additional funds. Then a layer of universal putty is applied over the reinforcing tape, since the surface of the sickle is mesh, the putty penetrates deep into the joint. The putty layer is leveled, and the excess is removed.

The quality of plasterboard partition plastering and the number of layers depend on the type of finish. For example, for painting, it is necessary to putty as carefully as possible, and when laying high-quality tiles, it is not required, since minor irregularities will be compensated by a layer of tile adhesive.

After the putty has dried, the surface of the partition, which not only improves adhesion with finishing materials, but also protects the partition from moisture.

That's all. I hope that the material was useful to you.

However, when embarking on an independent construction of a partition, it is important not to lose sight of anything. After all, only in this case it is possible to achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Having decided on the place for erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools.

Having decided on the place for erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools. At this stage, you will need to make a number of measurements that will be needed for further calculations. Not only the height and width of the room at the place of construction of the partition are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows. After all the dimensions have been fixed by you, you can arm yourself with a calculator and start compiling a list of necessary materials.

After all, only in this case it is possible to achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Calculation of the necessary materials

The basic list of materials is as follows:

• guide and rack profile;
• sealing tape;
• self-tapping screws and dowels for fastening the profile;
• drywall;
• self-tapping screws for fixing drywall;
• wooden beam to reinforce the profile around the doorway;
• heat-insulating material;
• sleeve for insulation of electrical wiring.

Not only the height and width of the room at the place of construction of the partition are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or the purchase of an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations. With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future partition. To do this, we multiply the height of the room by its width at the installation site of the drywall wall and subtract the area of ​​the doorway from the resulting number. If a single-layer cladding is planned, then the result must be multiplied by 2, in the case of a two-layer sheathing, by 4. For a wall, it is best to take standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to make a choice between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or the purchase of an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling. Based on this, we simply multiply the length of the future wall by 2 and get the desired amount of profile. With a rack profile a little more difficult. The recommended distance between the racks is 60 cm, so first you need to divide the width of the room measured in cm by 60, thus finding out the required number of racks. Then the resulting number is multiplied by the height of the room. Add two more wall lengths to the resulting number - these are jumpers to strengthen the structure.

With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future partition.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness. An alternative to a beam can be a reinforced thick-walled AU profile. The quantity is simple: the length of the two racks adjacent to the door plus the width of the doorway.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling.

Cooking tool

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a wall of drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools necessary for the work. You will need:

• roulette;
• plumb and level;
• metal scissors;
• construction knife;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• grater.

Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to make a choice between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

The key to success: correct layout and installation

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup. It is better to start from the floor. Then, using a plumb line, the walls and ceiling are marked. It is very important not to forget about a few nuances:

1. When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to attach to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators. Without doing this, you can get a room with a visual curvature, because right angles are very rare in buildings and the wall opposite the partition can be oblique in relation to the other two.
2. The line you have drawn is an indicator for laying the guide profile, respectively, the partition will protrude beyond this line by the thickness of the drywall sheets, plaster and finishing material.

Work with a metal profile

Having finished with the markup, you can proceed to fixing the guide profile. Its laying is carried out using a sealing tape. Fix the guide profile with dowels and self-tapping screws. There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between the fasteners. The edges of the guide profile are fixed without fail.

The next step in assembling the frame is to install and fix the rack profile along the edges of the guide. Then the racks of the doorway are installed facing each other. The distance between them should be taking into account the forthcoming sheathing of the hl. Next, the installation of the remaining racks is carried out, while the first of them is located at a distance of 55 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones are placed at an interval of 60 cm.

Drywall sheathing is a simple matter, but requires compliance with certain rules.

The distance between the uprights is measured from their centers. It is recommended that the carrier profile is first inserted into the lower guide, then into the upper one. Racks are fixed only after checking its position with a plumb line or level. If there is a dwelling on the floor above, then when laying the profile, it is advisable to use a building film. Its laying at the point of contact between two profiles will help to avoid the characteristic creak that is heard during a short-term increase in load.

The next step will be the installation of horizontal struts designed to strengthen the structure. To do this, it is necessary to cut the profile of the desired length, which is equal to the interval between the uprights plus 30 cm. Then, on the basis of the cut, marks are made on each side 15 cm from the cut line. After that, the sidewall of the profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, with a slope from the edge to the mark, and give it a U-shape. The workpiece is placed between the racks and fixed. The resulting ears are attached to the outside of the carrier profile.

The tightness of the sheets at the junction depends on the correctness of the cutting.

Similarly, horizontal lintels of door and window openings are installed. However, if they are planned to be rounded, then it is necessary to fix an additional spacer between the rack and the jumper at the desired angle.

Communications

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the laying of electrical wiring. First, it is threaded into a protective metal or non-combustible plastic corrugation sleeve. Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places. In this case, it is important to bend the edges of the hole to one side and bend, in order to prevent damage to the wiring. Then the wires are pulled to the desired points of the structure.

A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is carefully broken off.

How to avoid mistakes?

Drywall sheathing is a simple matter, but requires compliance with certain rules. So, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of subsidence, it is recommended to leave a 10-15 mm gap along the lower edge of the wall at the junction of drywall sheets and the floor. And the self-tapping screws are screwed into the hl with a depth of 1 mm so that the cap does not break through the top layer of cardboard.

The best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls.

The tightness of the sheets at the junction depends on the correctness of the cutting. The best result will be with the following procedure. After placing the sheet on a flat surface, measurements are taken, the boundary is marked with a pencil. A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is carefully broken off. The sheet is then turned over and placed again with a cut line at the edge of the support. The second layer of cardboard is trimmed, but not through, and carefully chipped off.

This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

One layer upholstery

This is the best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls. At possible mounting points for wall lighting fixtures, it is necessary to reinforce the drywall with plywood or build an additional spacer into the frame.

Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places.

If only hl is available to you, the length of which is less than the height of your apartment, then this is easy to fix without compromising the strength of the wall. It is simply necessary to use the experience of professionals when creating a wall with your own hands. The space not covered by the sheet is sheathed with fragments of the desired size. At the same time, it is necessary to avoid the coincidence of the seams at the same level, therefore, throughout the entire wall, whole sheets and their fragments must be alternated. That is, if in the first row a sheet is sewn from below, and a fragment is sewn on top, then in the next row there should be a fragment from below, and a solid sheet from above.

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the laying of electrical wiring.

All drywall joints should be chamfered. If there is no thinning of the sheet to the edge, then it must be formed using a planer. The edge of the sheet is thinned at an angle of approximately 22 degrees, but in such a way that a decrease in thickness of no more than 4 mm is observed on the cut line. Adjacent to the borders of the wall, the edges of the hl, on the contrary, should be devoid of a chamfer.

Double skin

A two-layer plasterboard wall sheathing is practiced when it is necessary to install a partition of increased strength. Sheathing rules differ little from a single-layer one, with the only exception: the joints of drywall sheets in the bottom sheathing layer do not have to be processed, forming a chamfer. It will only be needed on the sheets of the top layer.

Between fasteners there should be an interval of no more than 50 cm.

When sheathing the frame, it is also important to ensure that the seams do not match. To do this, the top layer is sewn with an offset of half the width of the sheet. In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points. Therefore, if with a single-layer sheathing it is sufficient to fasten with self-tapping screws with an interval of 25-40 cm, then with a two-layer sheathing, fixation on the profile with an interval of 15-20 cm is necessary.

When working with hl, avoid sudden movements.

Arch

If there is a desire to make a door or window opening semicircular, then you can independently bend a cut of the required size. To do this, you will need a frame of the required radius, which can be made from scraps of the same drywall and bars.

Adjacent to the borders of the wall, the edges of the hl, on the contrary, should be devoid of a chamfer.

Having prepared everything you need, a fragment of the hl of the desired size is cut off. Then one of its sides must be perforated with a needle roller and moistened with a sponge until a water mirror is formed. After that, the workpiece is moved to a frame prepared in advance and smoothly bent. The edges are fixed and left in this position until dry. After an hour, you can remove the clamps and, if the workpiece does not feel loose to the touch, proceed with the installation.

In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points.

First, the drywall arch is fixed in the center and edges, then screws are screwed in at all points of contact between the drywall and the frame. During the initial fixing of the sheet, it is important not to tighten the screws, leaving the cap 1-2 mm above the surface. Caps deepen after the leaf has completely dried.

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature not higher than 15 degrees.

Heat and sound insulation

An empty drywall wall is like a drum that doesn't store heat. Therefore, immediately take care of heat and sound insulation. The required amount of material is calculated based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall and the thickness of the profile. The choice of material depends entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. Comparative characteristics of the most common materials can help you navigate.

Having finished with the markup, you can proceed to fixing the guide profile.

Soundproofing material is laid before sheathing the second side of the wall. It is important to compact the material, avoiding gaps between the frame and the layers of thermal insulation. Also, before laying, make sure that the electrical wiring is connected to all the intended points of the wall.

Finishing

First you need to lay a mounting grid along the joints of the HL and level the recess formed by chamfers with the general level of the wall with a starting putty.

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup

It is recommended to strengthen the corner of the doorway using a building corner. It is laid on the starting putty and pressed tightly to the surface. Then, with a spatula, excess putty is removed, simultaneously leveling the general level of the partition. It is desirable to process the angle between the walls with a sickle.

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a wall of drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools necessary for the work.

The last step is to eliminate irregularities and roughness. To do this, you need to finish all the places of fixation with self-tapping screws with a finishing putty, simultaneously processing with it all the cracks and chips that appeared during the work. When the putty dries, it is important to smooth the surface using an abrasive mesh and floats. If in the future you plan to paint or paste over the wall with thin wallpaper, then it is definitely worth treating it with a primer.

When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to attach to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators.

What you should pay attention to

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature not higher than 15 degrees. Even if you are working with waterproof drywall, take care to impregnate the surface with a waterproofing compound, at least in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints. When working with hl, avoid sudden movements. This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness.

VIDEO: Drywall partition. Video lesson. We do it with our own hands. All stages

Drywall (GKL) consists of two layers of cardboard and a gypsum core with various additives that give additional properties: moisture and fire resistance, strength, etc. It is an easy-to-process, versatile sheet material suitable for leveling walls and installing interior partitions. GKL is not suitable only for rooms with constantly high humidity.

We level the wall with drywall with our own hands

There are two ways to cover surfaces with drywall sheets: on the frame or directly to the wall. It is impossible to do without crates if:

• the walls are very crooked - the deviation from the vertical is more than 4 cm;
• heat and noise insulation is required - a heater is placed between the wall and the GKL layer, and a frame is needed to obtain a gap.

Frame method

The standard step between the axes of the vertical racks of the lathing under the plasterboard is 60 cm. This size is linked to the width of the drywall sheet. The frame is mounted from a special metal profile or wooden bars. Disadvantages of wood: rots, swells or cracks, treatment with antiseptic and flame retardant agents is required.

Types of steel wall profile for frames under plasterboard:

1. Guide (П-shaped, PN, UW). It is installed along the perimeter of the plasterboard wall, as the basis of the crate.
2. Rack-mounted (C-shaped, PS, CW). It is mainly used to make vertical jumpers between the guides.
3. Corner (perforated, with reinforcing mesh, PU). It is designed for finishing outside corners. This profile is glued to drywall with putty.

The guide and rack profile is available in several sizes. For a single-layer sheathing, a width of 50 mm is sufficient, for a two-layer sheathing - at least 75. When choosing, the height and width of the wall, and the load are also taken into account. If there is a layer of insulation between it and the GKL, then the profile is taken wide, taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Advantages of frame cladding:

1. Strong fixation of drywall.
2. The ability to hide electrical wiring or pipes, no need to ditch the walls.

Flaws:

1. Space is “eaten up” - at least 6 cm from each sheathed wall.
2. Low strength, as there is a gap behind the drywall. If you need to hang cabinets or heavy shelves, then the sheathing has to be done in two layers (total thickness of at least 18 mm) or the step between the racks of the crate should be reduced to 40 cm. Furniture fasteners are placed on the profile. The advantage of a two-layer sheathing is good heat and noise insulation.

A metal profile of any kind has a standard length of 3 m, a rack profile can be found 4 meters long - it is chosen if the wall height is more than 3 m. A frame made of extended pieces of a 3-meter profile will be fragile. Cutting is most conveniently done with simple metal scissors.

Frameless way

If the walls in the room are relatively even, then you can save on the frame and save the usable area. GKL to the sheathed surface is fixed with dowels or on a special plaster glue. You can combine both methods. Instead of glue, it is allowed to use mounting foam.

If the deviation from the vertical is from 2 to 4 cm, then first beacons from drywall scraps are attached to the wall. The first ones are installed in the corners, a rope is pulled between them, along which additional beacons are glued every 40 cm. Their level is regulated by changing the thickness of the gypsum adhesive layer. Markings are applied to the wall, this helps to glue the sheets evenly.

You can start sheathing after the glue has completely set under the beacons

Fastening to the frame: step by step instructions

The procedure for sheathing the frame with drywall:

1. Start work from the corner.
2. It is recommended to cut the edge on the GKL at an angle of approximately 30 ° (one third of the thickness). This is necessary to press the putty into the seams. On sale there is drywall, in which the edge already has the desired shape. On cut blanks (for example, when finishing openings), cuts along the edges are mandatory.
3. Set the screwdriver to medium speed and put a self-tapping screw on the bit.
4. Place a stand up to 1 cm thick from below under the first sheet to create a gap.
5. Firmly press the GKL to the frame.
6. Screw in the self-tapping screws so that they are recessed into the surface by about 1 mm. Then the hats are easy to putty. The step between the screws is no more than 20 cm, if the skin is made in two layers, then on the first one you can do up to 75 cm. The first layer is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws that fix it on the second. The distance from the top or bottom of the sheet to the screw is 15 mm, to the right and left they recede by 10 mm.
7. Consistently fasten all sheathing sheets. Each is attached to at least three profiles, the edges of the plasterboard must fall exactly in the middle of the rack. Small cuts can only be fixed to two profiles. When installing the top sheets under the ceiling, also leave a gap.

On adjacent sheets, self-tapping screws are placed with a slight offset. If the cladding is done in two layers, then the second one is started to be mounted only after the putty has dried in the seams of the first one.

GKL dimensions

Standard dimensions of wall drywall: 2500 or 2700 mm by 1200 mm, thickness 12.5 mm. If the distance from floor to ceiling is more than 2.7 m, then sheets 3 m long are taken. For wall cladding on which heavy objects will hang, high-strength drywall 15 mm thick is chosen. On sale there are also small-format sheets - 1500 x 600 mm. It is convenient to work with them alone. Minus - more seams.

For a two-layer finish, you can buy plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm (ceiling).

How to dock

If the length of one sheet is not enough for the entire height of the wall, then the upper parts of the skin are fastened so that the seams between them do not coincide with the joints between the lower ones. Otherwise, you will not achieve sufficient strength. The seams are sealed with putty and reinforcing tape.

When performing double skinning, the joints on the first and second layers should also not coincide. If the distance between the racks of the frame is 60 cm, then the seams of the first layer are made on even profiles, the second on odd ones. If it is impossible to comply with this condition, then the displacement is performed arbitrarily - a minimum of 5 cm.

How to fix

GKL is attached to the crate with special self-tapping screws for drywall for metal or wood (selected for the frame material). The screw must protrude at least 10 mm from the back of the crate. This also applies to self-tapping screws for the second layer of double skin. For fixing a standard wall plasterboard (12.5 mm) in one layer, the optimal length of the self-tapping screw is 25 mm, in two layers - from 40 mm. The minimum consumption of screws is approximately 20 - 25 pieces per 1m2 of sheathing.

Distance

Between the plasterboard sheathing and the floor or ceiling, gaps of 5 - 10 mm are left. This is necessary to compensate for the effects of possible shrinkage or temperature changes. For the same purpose, leave a distance of 1 - 2 mm between adjacent sheets of plasterboard lining.

Drywall partition

In the manufacture of an interior partition, the installation of a frame is mandatory. It is made from the same materials as the crate for wall cladding. The frame can be double - higher strength, easier to place insulation, wires, etc. Sheathing is done in 1-3 layers, the third is needed with increased requirements for insulation or fire safety.

markup

Installation of a drywall partition begins with drawing up a frame diagram, taking into account the location of the sheathing sheets. It is marked on it. Procedure:

1. Using a rule or paint cord, draw a line on the ceiling at the location of the upper guide profile of the crate.
2. Check the angles of conjugation of the line with all surfaces. They should be exactly 90 °, if the project for finishing the room does not involve the installation of a partition on an oblique path.
3. Using a plumb line, transfer the basting to the floor.
4. Connect the markings on the floor and ceiling with vertical lines on the walls.

How to assemble a frame

The basic rules for mounting the lathing of the gypsum board partition, the step between the profiles, etc. are the same as for the wall sheathing.

Racks of opposite walls of the double frame are installed on the same line. From above and below, between the guide profiles, short segments are attached to connect both parts of the crate into a single whole.

The same segments are installed along the entire height of the frame in places where horizontal jumpers are located.

Communications in the partition

For laying pipes or cables, the frame must be made double with a gap between the walls. Wires and pipes are passed into this slot up to the bulkhead sheathing in such a way that the risk of their damage on the sharp edges of the profile is excluded. Be sure to take a picture of the location of communications before attaching drywall. This will facilitate the repair or partial replacement of the cable or pipeline. Sheathing is done in two layers, the maximum height of the partition is 6.5 m.

Frame sheathing and heat and sound insulation

Sheet joints located on opposite sides of the partition should be offset relative to each other. The recommended distance is 60 or 40 cm, depending on the pitch between the frame posts.

The interior wall can be insulated, for example, with mineral wool slabs. They are placed between the racks of the frame by surprise without fasteners to the skin. Most heat-insulating materials also have sound-absorbing properties. The best result can be achieved using a special soundproof plasterboard.

Basic rules for installing a plasterboard wall

Installing a plasterboard wall with a frame:

1. First, guide profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels according to the markings.
2. The frame is also fastened to the walls with dowels. Be sure to use hangers. These are narrow short steel strips, sold in the same place as the profile. To fix the details of the crate, they are shaped like the letter P.
3. When installing rack profiles, be sure to immediately check the correctness of their position with a level.
4. If the wall is high, then to increase the rigidity of the structure, horizontal jumpers are placed in height increments of 80 cm.
5. The profiles are interconnected with self-tapping screws "bug".
6. To tightly adjoin the frame to the walls, floor, ceiling, improve insulation, self-adhesive sealing tape is glued to the profiles located along the perimeter of the crate.

Wallpaper, paint, tiles, decorative plasters are suitable for finishing GKL. The finished lining for paint is completely puttied, for wallpaper and tiles it is enough to fill the joints and cover the screws. To improve the adhesion of GKL with wallpaper, a primer is applied.

GKL cutting

Drywall is cut with a simple construction knife. The sheet is placed on a table or other flat surface above the floor. Markup is done on a ruler or with the help of a paint thread. The knife blade is extended to a distance not exceeding the thickness of the gypsum plasterboard, and is drawn several times along the intended line.

The sheet is broken by sliding it so that it hangs over the floor, then turned over and cut the cardboard on the back. If you need a piece in the shape of the letter G, then a short cut is made with a hacksaw, a long one with a knife. Curvilinear cuts are made with a jigsaw. Holes for sockets, etc., are made before attaching the sheet to the crate - rectangular with a knife, round with a drill with a drywall crown.

Even a person who does not have experience in construction work can independently level the wall with drywall or make an interior partition of a simple shape. This method is more economical and less labor intensive than plastering or masonry with bricks or blocks.

Useful video

Complex forms of plasterboard are needed not only on the ceiling, sometimes for the uniqueness of the design or for spectacular changes in the layout, you have to think about how to make a round wall. More precisely, arcuate, since it would be impractical to completely loop the structure. But is drywall able to withstand such tests, and how to get the desired result from straight metal profiles? Let's figure it out.

Before making a round wall, let's find out what it will give

First of all, perhaps, it is necessary to summarize information about such a convenient, but not very durable drywall. This composite material is also known as dry plaster, and is actively used for wall decoration, even in rooms with a high level of humidity or fire hazard using especially resistant sheets. However, unlike decorative coatings, which are applied a few millimeters thick and immediately represent a finishing option, sheets of two layers of cardboard, between which a frozen layer of gypsum is enclosed, require finishing.

But if you do not pay attention to the decorative component, drywall is a very valuable development, because you can make a round wall out of it quite quickly, only slightly moistening. Today, sheets are produced with a thickness of 6, 8, and 9.5 millimeters (the most popular dimensions, but there are also thicker), which bend relatively easily, especially the first type, called arched. More massive modifications are necessary in cases where a solid foundation is needed, for example, so that drywall niches carry not only a decorative value.

From this we conclude that practically no other material can be used, say, for curved walls or for suspended ceilings in the form of complex shapes (especially in the latter case). Neither plywood nor plastic has the necessary margin of flexibility and durability. Brick is all the more unsuitable for light structures. As for the roundness of plasterboard walls, it is needed, first of all, in cases where it is required to slightly increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone room by removing a ledge in it, by reducing the area in the adjacent room, where there will be no corner. In addition, the protruding parts of the layout are damaged more often than the rounded ones.

We make rounded partitions

We already know that it is possible to obtain rounded partitions from it with ease, however, observing a certain degree of caution, since the material is rather brittle. But what about the frame on which you need to attach the sheets? The wooden beam disappears immediately. But with profiles, it turns out that the desired result is quite achievable. We also need mineral wool, a sufficient number of screws and some tools. In particular: a construction compass and a knife, a hacksaw and a grinder saw, a screwdriver, metal shears, a square, a needle roller, a pencil.

How to make a round drywall wall - step by step diagram

Step 1: Laying out the bases

We apply a semicircle to the inner sides of the partition frames to be connected, converging at an angle, so that the flat side of the template is perpendicular to one of the structures, and draw an arc on the floor.

Exactly the same markup should be on the ceiling, but, in the event that drawing on it does not work, we simply fasten the template itself with several screws in the same position in which it lay below.

You can also fix the part cut off from the workpiece on top with the same arc, the shape of which our template took.

Step 2: Preparing the Guides

It is very important to correctly bend the profile, which, despite the fact that it is made of metal, can easily take an arched shape. To do this, we measure along the rear plane of the guide segments of 5 centimeters, making notes.

Then we draw transverse lines along them, along which we make cuts with a grinder.

With scissors we cut one of the profile sides from cuts.

We bend the remaining board into the arc we need, referring to the line drawn on the floor.

We are preparing exactly the same profile for the ceiling.

Step 3: Making a Template

At the first stage of work, we measure the required wall bending radius (the minimum for a nine-millimeter sheet is 50 centimeters), after which we proceed to drawing the template. As a blank, you can use a sheet of plywood or even a piece of drywall, if there is a possibility of such waste.

As a result, a semicircle with the desired radius should be drawn on the sheet, which we cut with a hacksaw, resorting to the help of a construction knife if it is drywall.

Step 4: Frame fastening

Make sure that the profiles are strictly vertical. In order not to miss the profiles in the process of sheathing the structure, we draw marks on the floor and ceiling at their bases.

Step 5: Mounting the outer covering of the arc

In order for drywall sheets to bend without cracks and other flaws, you need to wet them and leave for 20 minutes to soften a little.

Then we carefully lift the finishing material, which can now tear like ordinary wet cardboard, and apply it to the extreme vertical stand of the frame. We fasten with screws to the first profile, bend slightly until it touches the second rack, fasten it again and repeat the process until the drywall is fixed on all vertical frame elements.

It is better to cut the sheets into strips or use waste, so there is less chance of them cracking during the bending process.

Step 6: Installing soundproofing

Since the round walls made of drywall are still an unfinished structure with only one-sided sheathing, we are starting to lay soundproof mineral wool boards between the profiles.

To do this, we cut them into narrow strips, which should fit tightly between the vertical racks of the frame, partially going inside the profiles.

Step 7: Mounting the inner cover of the arc

The laying of drywall sheets on the inside of the curved structure is carried out in exactly the same way as on the outside, with the only difference being that now it is possible to form a sheathing bend on the outer covering. We wet the drywall strips, but now we roll a needle roller over them from the side that will be outside. When the desired degree of curvature is obtained on the outer part of the arc, we transfer the sheet inside the frame and fix it with screws.

We cut off the excess with a construction knife or saw in the middle of the extreme profile for a joint with the following sheathing elements.

With the second layer we fasten whole moistened sheets, also cutting them in the middle of the vertical rack.