Wardrobe with folding doors with their own hands. Do-it-yourself wardrobe doors

The desire to make furniture with your own hands is welcome. After all, any thing worked independently acquires personality traits. Pick up a tool and create a masterpiece with your own hands. Let's start with the simplest - making cabinet doors.

A simple solution for everyone

To do the job quickly, choose one of the least time-consuming manufacturing options hinged doors cabinet:

from a panel;
from finishing plywood ½ inch;
under the sizes at professionals;
hanging sashes purchased in the store.

Homemade paneled doors are hung on semi-hidden overhead hinges. It is not necessary to cut the grooves with a cutter, the sashes can be made to the required size, at the end of the work the product is varnished for furniture.

Rice. 1. Plywood doors on a semi-hidden hinge

Homemade swing plywood doors have trim around the edges. Each sash should protrude from the front frame by about a centimeter. Grooving is not required, fastening to the back of the door and to the end of the front frame is not difficult.

Hanging ready-made sashes selected in the store on semi-hidden hinges or making doors in production according to drawings makes it possible to do business without turning the apartment into a carpentry shop.

Rice. 2. Samples of door fittings

From fittings, if there are no self-closing loops, you can use: A - universal constipation; B - roller; C - lock, locked with a key; D - door brass bolt; E - magnetic latch. The last element is most often used on glass doors.

Plywood doors

Work should begin with taking measurements doorway and the choice of the number of installed doors. With a width of more than 60 cm, one sash is not enough. If it is decided to put one panel, the height and width remain unchanged. When double doors are made, the width of the opening is divided in half and about 1.3 cm is subtracted from it on each side.

Rice. 3. We make a cabinet: taking measurements

To border the sashes, profiles with bevels of 45 ° are measured and cut. These elements are attached to the panel with 1 1/2" finishing nails. Lacquering is being done.

On the back side of the doors, 2 semi-hidden overhead hinges are installed. We recommend fixing them at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the panel (top and bottom). With a door height of more than 75 cm, use 1 more hinge in the center. To check the correctness of the measurements taken, it will be convenient to temporarily stick a sticky marking tape on the front frame, above 1.3 cm from the doorway.

The door is superimposed on the opening, the upper edge is aligned with the marking tape. The location of the loops must be marked on the front frame with pieces of the same tape.

Base holes are drilled into which the door is attached to the screws. The loops should be in the marked place. The marking tape is removed after the door is installed. Attached last doorknobs and other elements of door fittings.

Rice. 4. We make a cabinet: putting the sash on the opening and installing it

If a hinged door is made, then semi-hidden hinges are attached to the front frame at the bottom, and holders and latches are installed on the sides to prevent spontaneous folding of the sash.

Rice. 5. Making a cabinet: attaching door hardware

Sliding door assembly

You can install with your own hands not only hinged, but also sliding door panels. They save space, give the furniture more stylish, modern look. Sliding doors are an integral element of the design of both built-in and cabinet wardrobes. By constructive solution allocate:

suspended;
rail.

In the first case, the main load is supported by the upper guide, in the second - by the lower one. Home master can with his own hands, with proper dexterity and skills, install any doors in the closet. However, if you want to make suspended structure, you will need:

physical assistance in the installation of doors;
making efforts to move the valves;
complicated system adjustment.

Over time, under heavy weight, the upper part of the front frame will begin to sag. There are suspension systems more reliable, in which a smooth ride is implemented. We are talking about designs with a distributed load on 8 wheels (and not 2, as usual) and installation of bearings in the rollers. But this system:

occupies an additional 150 mm of cabinet space;
does not look aesthetically pleasing;
costs more.

The advantage of the suspension system should be recognized as its low demands on the door leaf. A door knocked together from any rough material, screwed with larger screws, will roll properly.

Choosing a rail design

It is easier to assemble a rail system with your own hands, although it is more capricious in operation. When deciding on a design, pay attention to its quality. To fix, to do something worthwhile, then it is impossible if, having decided to save money, you acquire dubious details.

Door systems of the “Commander” type have proven themselves well in operation. However, do not rely only on the name of the model: some unfortunate manufacturers manage to replace aluminum rails with tin ones or spoil a good idea in some other way.

The main advantages of using a high-quality rail system:

The light weight of the doors, even mirror-glass.
Ease of construction and adjustment.
Variety of facades (chipboard 8 mm, sandblasted mirrors, etc.);
Noiselessness, ease of fixation in extreme positions.

Rice. 6. Possible options do-it-yourself execution of sliding wardrobe facades with rail-type doors

When installing this system, screw connections are not used, the door frames are fastened with latches. For do-it-yourself assembly, this is the most acceptable option.

An example of calculating the overall dimensions of sliding doors

Let's perform the calculation of the dimensions of sliding doors:

door width;
canvas height;
the amount of materials.

Rice. 7. Wardrobe layout

Calculating the width of the doors will give a size of 1556 mm: from the total span of the opening (1572 mm) covered by the doors, it is necessary to subtract the thickness of the right wall (16 mm). Any sliding structures overlap each other, so we add 50 mm to the calculated figure (25 mm for each panel), we get 1606 mm. The extra 50 mm is guaranteed to ensure that there are no gaps when opening, but you can make a tolerance of 25 mm, at a minimum. The resulting width (1606 mm) is divided by the number of planes (2) and the width of one sash is displayed - 803 mm.

Rice. 8. Wardrobe: door arrangement, top view

Let's start determining the length of the canvas by fixing the overall overall height from floor to ceiling. In this case, it is 2481 mm. It is necessary to subtract 16 mm from it for linings under the guides from above and below and for gaps between the guide and the door by 15 mm. We get a canvas with a height of 2419 mm, therefore, for a wardrobe, it is necessary to make 2 sliding doors with dimensions of 2419x803 mm.

Rice. 9. Door profile of a built-in or cabinet wardrobe

When calculating the amount of materials needed to make do-it-yourself sliding cabinet doors, it should be taken into account that the profile is realized in segments of 2700 mm. For 2 doors, you will need 4 whips (left and right ends of both doors).

Rice. 10. Sliding wardrobe: upper (1) and lower (2) horizontal door profiles

The framing profile for the top and bottom of the sashes is realized in segments with a step length of 1 meter. Therefore, you will need to purchase 2 meters of the upper profile and 2 lower ones.

Door frame manufacturing

Let's start assembling the frame, the kit for 1 sash includes:

2 support rollers for the bottom guide profile;
2 bolts for attaching support wheels;
4 self-tapping screws for horizontal and vertical profiles;
2 supports for fixing the sash in the upper guide profile.

Rice. 11. Cutting the vertical profile to the required length

Having made the markup, we cut off 4 segments of the vertical profile of the required length. In the example above, it is 2419 mm. Remember that the whips are covered with tape to protect them from damage during transport. polyethylene film. Before cutting, it is not required to remove it, it will protect against accidental scratches.

The length of the upper and lower profiles is calculated as follows: from the sash width of 803 mm obtained in the example above, subtract 25 mm to the right and left verticals, and then add 1 mm each to fit the elements into the grooves. The resulting length of the horizontal profile is 755 mm.

Rice. 12. The scheme of the horizontal profile entry into the vertical groove

We determine the place of drilling in the vertical profile under the self-tapping screw, which will fasten it to the lower horizontal one. To do this, using a caliper, we measure the distance from the end of the profile to the middle of the hole for the self-tapping screw (7.5 mm) and transfer it to a vertical whip. We repeat this procedure with the upper horizontal profile. Do the same with the second vertical whip.
On the vertical profile from the bottom side, we mark the holes for the installation of support wheels. To do this, it is necessary to measure the gap between the end and the middle of the mounting hole of the block with the support wheel and transfer the resulting size to the vertical whip.

Rice. 13. Drilling a vertical profile

Wherever the markup is made, we carry out through (through the outer and inner strips) drilling 5 mm mounting holes under the screws. In total, 3 holes should be obtained in each vertical whip, the first for fixing the upper profile, the second for fixing the lower, the third at the very bottom for installing the support rollers.

We increase the diameter of the hole in the outer bar to 8 mm, this will allow you to hide the screw head in it, and the lower bar will be pressed.

Door frame installation and filling calculation

After combining drilled holes a self-tapping screw is inserted, and the structural elements are pulled together. Insert the positioning support before finally tightening the top guide profile.

It is not necessary to screw the bolt deeper, let it come out of the profile by 1-2 mm. In the future, with its help, it will be possible to adjust the position of the sash on the lower support.

You can make filling for do-it-yourself sashes, like the cabinet itself, from the most different materials. But before selecting them, let's take the dimensions between the upper and lower horizontal bars (in our example, it will be 2360 mm), and between the left and right vertical ones (767 mm).

On each side, you need to make a gap of 1 mm, this will allow you to assemble the frame without difficulty. The filling size will decrease to 2358 and 765 mm, respectively. If you want to make a cabinet with mirrored or glass doors with your own hands, then you should remove another 1 mm from each side. This is explained by the laying of a rubber sealing tape, so the size of the filler will decrease to 2356x763 mm.

In order to save money, some people start making furniture themselves. For example, if you purchase material and accessories, you can get an inexpensive wardrobe with sliding doors. Today, such products are in great demand, because they save living space, easy to use, decorate the interior (applies to models with original and interesting view). The following describes how to prepare and mount wardrobe doors with your own hands, as well as decorate them in an unusual way.

Varieties

Before proceeding with production work, it is necessary to figure out what designs generally exist. Sliding doors are completed hanging system, overhead or frame profile. Hanging products are considered the cheapest, because they consist of chipboard sheets and facing edge. On its inner side, there are rollers at the top, and guide elements at the bottom. Such a system is difficult to regulate, quickly fails, and the canvas is prone to bending.

Overhead profiles hold chipboard better, since they are located on the sides. If such doors are needed, then the lower rollers equipped with bearings will act as a support. There are also rollers in the upper part, but they perform the function of support. If there is an obstacle in the way of the doors, they can warp and jump out of the grooves.

The frame profile is a structure of horizontal and vertical elements. They are made of steel (aluminum) and make the product more durable and reliable. The rollers on the doors move not only to the sides, but also vertically. Glass or a mirror is easily inserted into the canvas.

Sizing

In order for the furniture to look neat, it is necessary to correctly measure the wardrobe door. With their own hands they are made 500-1000 mm wide. A door that is too small will collapse, and a door that is too large will be difficult to operate. The height of the structure depends on the type of profiles. For example, overlays have a length of 5500 mm, so they can be adjusted in height.

When calculating the width of the doors, the overlap must be taken into account. Therefore, the width of the profile is added to the measurement of the opening, and the total amount is divided by two (the number of canvases). If it will be more doors, then the number of profiles will also increase.

The height of compartment doors is calculated much easier: you need to measure the opening in height and subtract 45 mm from it. This distance allows you to bring the canvas into the upper profile. Do not subtract less than 45 mm, otherwise the doors will be tight.

Material

How to make do-it-yourself wardrobe doors and what material to use for this? His choice depends on the financial abilities and design preferences of the consumer. Most often, chipboard, glass, mirrors, plastic, etc. are taken into account. Chipboard doors imitate natural material, make the interior homely, warm and interesting. They are used in the manufacture budget cabinets because they are of low cost.

Glass designs can be: frosted, patterned, colored or embossed. They are pasted over with a special film, which, upon impact, will not allow the material to break into small fragments. Mirrored doors also look very elegant. They can be tinted, covered with an anti-reflective film, equipped with built-in lamps, drawings and patterns.

Quite often there are doors made of acrylic plastic - a very durable material. His color palette diverse, which allows you to create individual design. You can get it unique interior, if you combine this design with decoration and other interior details.

Fasteners and guides

You can install the wardrobe doors with your own hands if you purchase the necessary ones (rollers, self-tapping screws, adjusting screws, guides, etc.). Their main weight falls on the bottom, so there should be large rollers. The top rollers are small, as they are only needed to support the structure and move along the guide profile. You will also need adjusting screws with fine threads, which are responsible for tilting the doors. The main fasteners are self-tapping screws that connect the elements into a single product.

Horizontal guides are responsible for the movement of doors inside the cabinet. Upper profile - a horizontal part at the top of the door frame, which has a filling in the form of chipboard or a mirror. A special groove runs along it for screwing in self-tapping screws. With the help of the lower guide element, the vertical profile is fixed, the carrier rollers are hidden, and the appearance is improved.

Can't make sliding doors for a do-it-yourself wardrobe without a vertical handle profile. It has a groove into which the filling is inserted. This element makes the product attractive, because it looks very elegant.

Door assembly

After taking measurements, choosing materials and fittings, they begin to assemble the doors. First, prepare the filler. They lay it exactly along the perimeter. Then it is applied to the base material and attached to it from above and below with horizontal strips. It is very important that the mirror goes into all the grooves, and the seal is not visible.

In the manufacture of the wardrobe door with their own hands, they also arrange the side racks. To do this, the design is placed on the edge and put on a mirror. Profile elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, for which pre-prepared holes are required. After that, rollers are installed at the top and bottom, and a tape with a pile is glued to the vertical profiles. If necessary, the design is equipped with handles (screwed with screws or inserted into a cut hole).

Preparatory work

Before performing the preparation of the opening. To begin with, the horizontality and evenness of the guides are checked. The entire structure must be strict geometry, however, small errors are hidden in the process of adjusting the doors. You can also level the cabinet using the leveling feet (especially if the floor is uneven).

If you have to mount it, you will have to prepare an opening. To begin with, measure its width again and cut out two linings from chipboard. Their size must match the width of the opening (maximum accuracy will be required). With the help of a drill, several holes are made in them. The lining is applied to the ceiling, leveled and pulled with screws so that they are imprinted. Holes are drilled in the marked places and dowels are hammered. The parts cut out of chipboard are screwed with screws. The bottom lining is mounted in the same way as the top one. It is very important that it is perfectly even.

Installation work

Do-it-yourself installation of doors in a sliding wardrobe begins with laying guides. First they take top element, measure the desired length and cut off the excess with a jigsaw. The same is done with the bottom guide element. Using a drill, drill holes necessary for fastening to cabinet parts or linings. Guides are applied, aligned and secured with screws.

Once everything is finished, you can proceed to the installation of doors. The first web is inserted into the guides, the system is checked for performance and adjustment is performed. Properly adjusted doors will allow mechanisms to operate quickly and easily. After that, a second canvas is installed, checked and adjusted. Sometimes they install three-leaf sliding doors for the wardrobe with their own hands. Then the mounted sashes are moved aside and the third canvas is mounted. All the same manipulations are carried out with it as with the previous elements.

decoration

At any time, you can remove the doors and decorate them with various materials. In this case, you can choose: mirrors, patterned glass, leather and fur, various films.

1. A mirror is often inserted into the doors of wardrobes, especially if the furniture is located in the hallway. For interior design, silver and bronze products are best suited.

2. Patterned or plain glass covered with decorative film looks great on furniture designs. Individuality to the room will give the material made to order.

3. Photo printing looks very nice and allows you to create absolutely any image. In this case, the picture is applied either immediately to the surface, or to a film pasted under the glass.

4. using leather and fur. In great demand today decorative panels imitating the skin and fur of animals. If desired, various patterns and patterns are applied to them.

5. Special films allow you to quickly and cheaply decorate the product. A variety of colors and textures will help to combine furniture with any style of interior.

The sliding wardrobe is popular with consumers due to its spaciousness, space saving and attractive appearance. It will cost less if you figure out how to assemble wardrobe doors with your own hands. And if the apartment has a spacious niche, then you can protect it and get an excellent dressing room.

How to make cabinet doors from lining?

Elena, Berezniki.

Hello, Elena from Bereznyakov!

(Are these the ones where Uralkali is?)

Beautiful carvings on the house where you are sitting. Yes, and the track from edged boards looks original.

For the person who does this kind of thing, making cabinet doors from clapboard would not be difficult.

And so, there are no special difficulties for the manufacture of such doors. True, if you do this for the first time, then you will have to try.

The first thing should be the desire to do something with your own hands, the second is the availability of a set necessary tool. Workplace. Material.

Desire to eat. The tool kit should include - a tape measure, a construction square, a pencil, a hacksaw, a hammer, a Phillips screwdriver, a knife, a planer, a chisel, other tools in the form of various and more complex things may be necessary, but you can do without it.

If the cabinet itself is already available, then the opening into which you are going to insert the future door should be framed with wooden blocks around its entire perimeter.

According to the classics of the genre, it is desirable that this wooden block still would have been selected in the quarter. Or instead, strips should be nailed on the inside so that when closing the doors do not fall into the opening, but simply fit flush with the surface of the front wall of the cabinet. But if this is not the case, then it's okay, you can do it.

I will not describe how to make artsy cabinet doors with built-in hinges, this is usually done in variants of kitchen and other wardrobes.

Let's dwell on the simplest option, when using a pair of hinges on one door leaf. /Although instead of them you can use one piano loop of the required length./

In the accompanying drawings, sketches, I tried to explain in detail the manufacture of the doors as much as possible.

First of all, take a wooden block with a cross section of 30/30 millimeters or more. If your cabinet is small, then the section is taken less, and if the cabinet is about two meters high, then the bar must be taken, respectively, with a larger section. Approximately 40/40 or 40/50 millimeters. In short, the dimensions are approximate, you can play them in one direction or another.

The bar must be planed on all sides, it does not hurt to grind it with an emery cloth so that there are no burrs and burrs in sight.

Then measure the opening of the cabinet itself (or make it in the image and likeness of the doors themselves).

The bars along their ends are cut into a quarter, as shown in the figure.

Alternatively, they can be made in the form of a tenon-groove connection, as indicated in another figure. But it will be a little more difficult, here it will be additionally necessary to drill holes, which are then combined and a darn (wooden rod) is hammered into them.

The dimensions of the door frame are made by a few millimeters smaller sizes the cabinet opening itself. 2 - 5 millimeters. Then the frames will not interfere with each other when the door is closed.

All frame bars are attached to self-tapping screws with a length slightly less than the thickness of the bar.

Sometimes the corners of the door frames are additionally reinforced with metal window corners. They are freely sold in hardware stores. Attach such corners with inside doors. In this case, it is important to observe the diagonal. That is, the diagonals of the frame must be equal to each other.

After you make sure that the frame of the door fits freely into the frame of the cabinet opening, hinges are attached to it. One at the top, one at the bottom. Why is a distance equal to the length of the loop measured from the corner of the frame and the loop is attached so that its axis extends beyond the outer surface of the frame. Smooth and without distortion. Outline the contour of the loop with a pencil and use a chisel to select wood to a depth equal to the thickness of the loop.

After the loop is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws, the latter is inserted into the cabinet opening and the place of wood sampling in the opening bar is marked along it. So that the frame does not sag and run into the bars of the opening, technological strips of the same thickness from 2 to 5 millimeters are nailed into the opening along the top, bottom and on the side opposite to the one where the hinges are located, with small nails. Then the gaps will be constant. And the slats are removed after inserting the second halves of the loops into the cabinet opening.

For small doors take window hinges, for doors with a height of one and a half to two meters, take door hinges.

If the hinges are installed incorrectly (out of alignment with each other, without making their surfaces flush with the surface of the bars of the door or opening), then distortions are possible and they will need to be corrected, for which thin wooden plates are sometimes placed under the hinges or by clogging old holes from self-tapping screws with wooden chopsticks and screwing fasteners in other places.

After fitting the frames, they start stuffing to the door frame of the lining. Everything is elementary here. On the construction square, mark the places where the boards are sawn, saw, process with emery cloth, install on the door frame and nail, rallying all the boards. To do this, take galvanized lining or finishing nails (with small hats or without them at all) 40 millimeters long.

The edge board adjacent to the side of the frame where the hinges are located can be cut out at the points of contact with the hinges. This eliminates the gap between the wall of the cabinet, which is also sheathed with clapboard, and the clapboard of the door.

Sometimes an option is used when the lining boards protrude slightly along the top and bottom beyond the frame of the door. In this case, the lining of the lining of the cabinet itself should be slightly smaller than the frame of the cabinet itself. This eliminates the gaps at the top and bottom of the door.

Cabinets can be either with a single door or double doors. Everything is done in the same way as for one sash. And between the doors at their junction, technological gaskets are also inserted, which are then removed. In order to prevent a gap from being visible between them with double-leaf doors, a flashing strip is nailed to one of the door halves.

In the case when the doors spontaneously open and close, a pair of shingles is installed on their outer sides. Sometimes hooks or magnetic latches on the inside. That is, they use different options.

If the cabinet door is about two meters high, then in the middle of the door it is additionally necessary to place another transverse bar for rigidity.

Here, as far as I could, I talked about cabinet doors made from lining.

If you do, then it is possible that the first pancake will be lumpy. Do not despair. For what is done well is done twice. Improvise, fantasize, be smart and everything will work out.

I don’t know how for an ultra-modern kitchen, but for a garden and country house, a similar cabinet design will be enough. Cheap and cheerful.

Other questions on the topic of metal and interior doors, windows:

doors

Installation of doors in the opening of tongue-and-groove gypsum boards
Installation of an entrance metal door in a log house

The sliding wardrobe is convenient, as the doors in the open state do not take up much space. It can generally be made unframed - in a niche, from wall to wall. All that is needed in this case is to install doors for the wardrobe, and then assemble the filling (or vice versa, this is not so important.

If we talk about strict restrictions on the size of doors for a wardrobe, then there are none. You can make any length and width. But there are recommended parameters based on operating experience:

Sash design

The door leaf of the sliding wardrobe consists of profiles:

All this together looks like in the photo. In this frame, in the grooves, your chosen material for the doors is inserted. It can be glass, mirror, and other materials.

Dividing profiles are optional. They are needed if you assemble the sashes from different materials or you just like them in this form. The maximum thickness of the filling material is 10 mm, the minimum is 4 mm. Thinner ones - glass, plastic, mirror - are inserted through the sealing gasket.

In order for the sash to move, rollers are installed on it - at the top and bottom. The entire mass of the door falls on the lower rollers, and the upper rollers stabilize the vertical position of the leaf, preventing it from deviating.

The rollers are attached to the side profiles using special fasteners.

Guides for compartment doors

As you understand, the sash is not everything. Guides are needed along which these same doors will move. There are two of them - upper and lower. By appearance they differ significantly.

When installing the doors, they are first tightly inserted into the upper guide, the sash is raised to the stop and the lower rollers are placed in the corresponding slot. The whole structure is shown in the following photo.

Size calculation

At self assembly sliding wardrobe doors have two options. The first is to measure the opening, think about how many doors you want to have and contact a door manufacturing company with this information. Just make sure they sell parts without assembly fees. The manager will take care of everything for you. necessary materials, will give out the dimensions and announce the amount. Everything is simple. But you will have to buy everything in this office, i.e. choose from what is available.

sashes

Calculate the width of the leaves so that only one handle is visible in the closed state, but at the same time it should not cover the door leaf itself. For a sliding door of two wings, consider this: measure the width of the opening, add the width of the profile and divide in half. This will be the width of the sash.

For example, the opening is 1600 mm, the width of the handle profile is 26 mm. We get 1600 mm + 23 mm / 2 = 811.5 mm. Please note that the width of the handle profile is taken arbitrarily. It can be different in shape and, of course, in width. When calculating, substitute the width of the design you have chosen.

To calculate the tricuspid, you will need to add twice the width of the profile and divide by 3.

Example: opening 2100 mm, handle width is the same - 26 mm. We consider: 2100 mm + 2 * 26 mm / 3 = 717 mm.

Everything is easier with height. 40-45 mm are subtracted from the height of the cabinet and the required sash height is obtained, as well as the length of the side profiles. With the size of the valves all.

filling

Since the filling is in a frame of profiles, we subtract twice the width of the profile from the total width of the sash. We do the same with the height - subtract the height of the lower and upper profile.

So, the width of our sash is 811.5 mm. The measured width of the handle profile is 18 mm. Since the handles are placed on both sides, we double this figure. We get 36 mm. Total filling width 811.5 mm - 36 mm = 775.5 mm.

We also consider the height: let the original be 2350 mm, the width of the upper profile is 12 mm, the lower profile is 48 mm. Total filling height 2350 mm - 12 mm - 48 mm = 2290 mm. This is if the filling is solid and it is chipboard that does not require a silicone sealant. If the sash is a solid mirror or glass, the thickness of the sealing gum must be subtracted from the found height. It is 1 mm, but since it is worn around the perimeter, it takes 2 mm in general - above and below. In this case, the filling height is 2290 mm - 2 mm = 2288 mm.

If the sash filling consists of fragments, the thickness of the connecting profile is also subtracted. It is also about 1 mm.

Profiles

The height of the vertical frame profiles is equal to the overall height of the sash. The width of all horizontal ones is calculated depending on the width of the handle: we subtract twice the width of the handle from the width of the sash (there are two of them).

Let the width of the handle be 26 mm. We get the width of the vertical profiles: 811.5 mm - 26 mm * 2 = 759.2 mm.

Assembly photo report

First, all profiles are cut exactly according to the calculated dimensions. The accuracy must be perfect. The cut is strictly perpendicular, at 90 °. Holes are drilled in the handle profiles for the installation of rollers and fasteners.

Holes are made through two diameters. Exact size depends on the dimensions of the purchased fasteners, but basically there are two sizes: 4 mm and 6 mm, as well as 6 mm and 10 mm.

At the top, one such hole is made, the center of which is at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the profile, at the bottom of the holes there are two - the first at a distance of 7 mm from the edge, the second - departing from the cut of the profile 42 mm.

When assembling, first of all, all parts of the filling are assembled. First, if there is glass or a mirror, sealing rubber is installed around the perimeter. It is simply put on the end of the part by pressing a finger. At the edges, the sealant is cut off, put on end-to-end, but without overlap on the next side.

Glue on the mirrors from the back protective film. You can use regular stickers. This film will not allow the fragments to crumble if the mirror breaks.

If the sash is composite, we assemble it using connecting profiles. The filling parts are simply inserted with force into the profile. Sometimes considerable effort may be required. Can be tapped on the butt back side palms or use a rubber mallet for this.

Simply insert the filling parts into the grooves of the profile and tap on the end

When the sash is assembled, according to the same principle, the corresponding profiles are installed at the top and bottom.

Then it's time to install the side handle profiles. Everything is the same: drive the filling into the groove, make sure that it goes all the way along the entire length without distortions. When the frame is assembled, it is necessary to tighten it with fasteners. We start from the top. Take fasteners, insert into the previously drilled hole. If the distance was measured accurately, the screw falls into the groove of the upper cross member.

Tighten the connection with a hex wrench. Slightly not screwing up to the stop, we insert the upper rollers between the screw head and the profile jumper, then we tighten the screw.

We repeat the same operation on the other side. Then we go down. Here the fastener is installed in the upper hole. We just tighten it up. Repeat the same on the other side.

Installation of the lower roller - we start the plate in profile

We press the spring, tucking the roller body inward. We insert the screw into the hole, trying to get into the socket, tighten it with a hexagon. It may need a different size - slightly smaller than the others - as this screw is usually thinner and longer.

You don't need to tighten it all the way. So that it goes into the plate half a centimeter or so. Then, when installing the door and adjusting its stroke, this screw adjusts the position of the sash - the corner rises or falls.

If you press the roller wheel, it will go into the body, then return due to the elasticity of the spring. This simple mechanism ensures the smooth running of the wardrobe door.

Having collected all the wings, we proceed to the installation of guides. They should be located strictly one under the other, even without deviations of a millimeter. Use a plumb line or laser level ().

First, screw the top guide. It is attached either to the ceiling or to the top of the cabinet. The distance from the shelves is at least 100 mm, otherwise the doors will touch the shelves, things, hangers.

We insert spring-breakers into the grooves from the sides into the lower guide. They will limit the movement of the door. The number of springs is equal to the number of wings, they are installed at both ends.

If laser level no, in order not to suffer with plumb lines, for starters, you can simply lay the lower guide until it is fixed. Then install one blade, bringing its upper rollers to the top, and setting the lower ones in the desired groove. Thus, the doors will connect the upper and lower rails.

By setting the canvas strictly vertically, you will automatically set the lower guide. It remains only to screw it on. Just be careful not to move the doors.

The last thing that remains to be done is to glue the shlegel on the sides. This is a fleecy self-adhesive strip that softens the impact of the sash on the walls of the cabinet (or just on the walls if the cabinet is unframed).

The final touch - Schlegel sticker

On this wardrobe doors are installed and ready to go. You can watch the process again in the video.

Sliding wardrobe doors are much more convenient than swing doors, which take up a lot of space when opened. In addition, moving canvases can be placed inside a regular wall niche. This article contains detailed description how to assemble sliding doors for a sliding wardrobe from inexpensive materials and install by hand. It will be a question of filling the doorway, the manufacture of partitions is a separate issue.

Brief description of the design

In fact, the device of rolling doors is quite simple. You don’t have to invent anything - you just need to buy a ready-made installation kit sold in any building supermarket.

Reference. The set of purchased parts is accompanied by an instruction, which contains drawings and diagrams for assembling swing doors for a sliding wardrobe.

The design shown in the photo consists of the following elements:

Door frame assembled from horizontal and vertical aluminum profiles.
Elements for filling frame openings - laminated chipboard 10 mm thick, mirror glass or plastic panels. The canvas can be made combined by dividing it into 2-4 openings by installing horizontal jumpers from a special profile.
Sliding wardrobe doors are rolled by rollers built into the upper and lower frame profiles. The lower roller is a support roller, the upper one supports the sash in a vertical position, so its paired wheels are placed horizontally.
The bottom guide bar bears all the load door panels. There are 2 grooves in the profile, where the rollers of neighboring doors roll.
The upper guide profile is made in the form of an inverted letter "Sh". The element plays the role of a limiter, preventing the door from deviating from the vertical position. Paired rollers roll along the side walls of the grooves.

The vertical racks of the frame are made of two types of profile - with an open (type C) and a closed (type H) handle. In terms of assembly, there is no difference between the parts. The upper and lower bars are made with a recess for installing rollers and a special round groove where the fixing screw (included) is screwed in.

To prevent dust from penetrating into the cabinet, the compartment door pillars are pasted over from the inside with a buffer tape with a pile length of up to 12 mm. To protect against blows against the walls of the cabinet or niche, a shlegel is attached to the ends of the leaves - a self-adhesive strip up to 6 mm thick. A silicone seal is used to mount the glass inserts inside the frame.

Note. We have reviewed cheap option sliding door mechanism and frame. More expensive kits include a variety of closers, latches and magnetic stops. If desired, the listed parts are purchased separately.

Calculation of dimensions and purchase of materials

Before you start measuring the opening of a cabinet or wall niche where you want to build a sliding system, you should check the verticality of the walls and parallelism with respect to the floor. The roller mechanisms allow you to adjust the slope of the door leafs within certain limits, but with a large discrepancy, the leaves will begin to fall out or jam. In such cases, it is better to make a leveling wooden box, and then measure the opening.

Note. Instead of the designation Ln in the table, substitute overall width opening. Lc is the desired leaf size.

It remains to calculate the length of the frame cross members - upper, lower and middle (if any). Since the horizontal lintels are butt-attached to the ends of the uprights, their size is equal to the sash width minus 2 widths of the selected vertical profile.

The dimensions of the filling inserts must be considered individually - they depend on the thickness of the material (mirror - 4 mm, MDF - 8 mm, laminated chipboard - 10 mm), the number of bridges and the profile configuration. In this case, be guided by the calculation scheme attached to the manufacturer's instructions.

Having determined all the dimensions, you will understand how much to purchase materials and which kit to choose for assembling wardrobe doors. Hardware stores offer a fairly wide selection of profiles and fillers different colors to pick up beautiful option for any interior.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the door leaf

For work at home, prepare a sharp hacksaw for metal and a rubber mallet. The rest of the tools are standard - an electric drill with a set of drills, screwdrivers and measuring devices ( building level- necessarily).

How do-it-yourself wardrobe doors are assembled:

Advice. Before drilling holes, be sure to check the manufacturer's drawing in the instructions - the amount of indentation of your products may vary.

If the canvas of the sliding wardrobe is assembled from several inserts, use H-shaped rails - jumpers. They are offered in two versions - with and without end fastening. The first option is used when the chipboard filler is placed above the glass, the second - vice versa. At the end, glue the side parts of the racks with buffer tape (schlegel).

Reference. When assembling a door for a sliding wardrobe, you can do otherwise - first mount the frame, then adjust the filler panel to its size. The manufacturing process is shown in detail in the video:

We install the sashes in the opening

The last step in assembling the sliding wardrobe is to install the rails, install the door and final adjustment. The procedure is as follows:

After installing the door, it remains to adjust it relative to the sliding wardrobe itself. Using a hex wrench, turn the adjusting screw of the lower roller until you reach the optimum position - the sash should open without problems and fit against the side walls without gaps. The complete assembly technology is described in the next video:

Conclusion

Although the assembly process sliding systems does not look complicated, it is recommended for beginners to practice installing doors on a balcony or country cabinet in order to feel all the nuances. Instead of the proposed budget design, you can use more expensive hinged mechanisms (these are placed on interior doors), and decorate the sash with original filling - glass with photo printing or an engraved pattern.