Home craftsman: how to sharpen a planer. How to sharpen electric planer knives at home

A planer is one of the most important tools in the home, but working with it can become a real pain if it is not sharpened correctly. Sharpening can be done by hand, you just need to be careful. Correctly sharpening a planer is not as difficult as it might seem, you just need to follow the instructions of specialists. The planer blade should slide easily, while removing a thin layer of wood.

homemade machine for sharpening planer knives

In order to get the desired result when working with a planer without unnecessary problems, it is necessary to sharpen it correctly.

For correct sharpening planer, you need the following tools:

grinding machine;
a rock.

In addition to such tools, you need to be patient, then you can sharpen the planer quickly and efficiently. And you need to buy right away. quality tool then it won't be a big problem.

Plane sharpening process

Scheme of options for sharpening a planer knife: a - on a whetstone; b - on a grindstone; c - the position of the chamfer of the cutter blade when sharpening on a whetstone; g - sharpening on a grindstone disk using a thrust device.

If the planer is to work with hardwood, then you need to be prepared for the fact that his knife will quickly intercede as a result of interaction. The tip wears out very quickly, potholes and notches appear on it. It is especially problematic to work with such a tool if a nail comes across in the planed wood. If the notches are large, then it is best to use emery for sharpening. It should be borne in mind that it is best to sharpen the planer knife if the emery wheel has a large diameter. If the size of such a circle is smaller, then the recess is large. Then you still have to do the leveling of the paska, as it should be perfectly flat.

It is very good to have 2 different circles for sharpening, one of them should have large grains, and the second should be fine-grained. In this process, it is very important to observe the correct sharpening angle. With this process, a special emphasis is needed, since only specialists with certain skills can simply hold the knife in their hands and sharpen it. The angle of sharpening is very important, you should pay special attention to this.

Plane sharpening angle diagram.

You should not press the piece of iron strongly against the rotating circle, which many do in order to “tear off” a large layer of metal in a short time. Thus, the planer knife quickly “burns out” as a result of severe overheating, and the hardening of the metal is disturbed. In order to prevent all this, it is necessary to cool the metal from time to time, for which it is enough simply to lower it into cold water. After editing on the emery wheel is completed, the blade must be edited on a fine-grained bar. At the end, you need to bring the blade to the end on a special grinding stone (if not, you can use a leather belt with polishing paste). You need to be prepared for the fact that such a process is laborious and time consuming. To avoid this, it is strongly recommended not to sharpen the planer after it has become very dull, but to do this from time to time, as soon as the wood cutting starts to get worse.

The angle of sharpening a planer knife in most cases is 25-45 °, but it is impossible to say exactly what the angles should be.

It all depends on the density of the wood.

When sharpening, the knife blade should not be extended far from the block, otherwise too thick chips will be caught, which can lead to negative consequences. If the knife is set too low, it will cut very thin chips. This leads to the fact that it will take a lot of time for processing. It is impossible to work with a planer with a beveled knife, since it will be impossible to make a flat surface (especially if we are talking about broad material).

Home craftsman: how to sharpen a planer

Why do you need manual sharpening
Sharpening planer knives on the machine and their adjustment
Conclusion on the topic

In a workshop home master always a lot of tools. How to sharpen a planer so that it is always in working condition? Every master who has a hand or electric tool should learn how to do this.

Carpentry tool for planing wood in the form of a wooden block with a wide blade.

Why do you need manual sharpening

Sharpening planer knives on the machine and their adjustment

Electric planer knives are consumables.

In most cases, when sharpening a planer, a special machine is used. Learning how to sharpen a tool on it is quite simple - just read the instructions. Such equipment includes the Tormek machine (image 4). It is equipped powerful engine, has low speed, can sharpen the tool for a fairly long period of time. High purity and precision of sharpening provides water cooling of the knife edge.

Sharpened knives are clamped with holders that are mounted on a support. During the operation of the machine, it is possible to adjust the pressure, the width of the chamfer, the speed of rotation of the circle. On the machine sharpening of the tool from any metal is possible. The very process of working on the machine is very simple, you just need to follow some safety rules.

A common type of hand planer is its electric version. His knives are consumables. There are usually 2 of them. They are mounted on a special drum and removed upper layer wood on the workpiece. These products are made from a special grade of tool steel. They lend themselves well to sharpening. For some models, they are made of tungsten carbide, which is particularly durable.

The angle of the planer should be sharpened at an angle of 45 to 60 degrees.

Knives differ in their shapes. They are:

straight;
rounded;
curly.

Straight blades are used for cutting narrow workpieces and cutting quarters. Rounded blades handle wide planes. Roundings at the ends make neat transitions between the lines of the passage of the planer. Wave-shaped curly blades are needed to imitate various aged surfaces. Before starting work with a planer, it is necessary to check the correct installation of the knives. To do this, turn the planer upside down and look at the blade: its cutting edge should protrude 0.3-0.5 mm above the sole.

Interskol and Baikal planers are of very good quality compared to other manufacturers.

Adjust the blades if necessary. For adjustment, the fixing screws are loosened, then the adjusting screws are turned in different sides until the knives take their place. After that, it remains to fix them. New electric planers most often come adjusted from the factory. They can be used immediately. But the settings must be checked periodically, because they can change when the blade meets a knot or a nail. After adjusting the plane, they check it on an unnecessary bar or board.

The Baikal and Interskol planers have very reliable and durable blades. They are slightly wider than other models, their thickness is also somewhat larger. They are sharpened in the usual way. The sharpening angle is approximately 30 degrees. In order for the planing quality to be high, the cutting edge should not have any burrs. To do this, sharpened knives need to be edited using a grinding wheel. The piece of iron is installed in the fixture and moved from one side to the other.

Device for sharpening planer knives

The pressure on the wheel or touchstone should be minimal so as not to overheat the part. Thanks to this manipulation, the knife will receive a special sharpness.

When finishing with the use of various kinds of whetstones, water, oil, and kerosene are used as a coolant. If the touchstone has a different structure on each side, then the coarse-grained side is used first, then the fine-grained one. The touchstone must be washed periodically so that it does not become salted.

Conclusion on the topic

Each owner should be able to sharpen and adjust the knives of a manual or electric planer.

After installing them, you should immediately try the work of the planer. This method has been proven to prolong the life of the cutting elements. For proper sharpening, you need desire, an eye, skill and a steady hand. They must be accompanied by emery and grinding wheels, whetstones for finishing. It is good to acquire tools for attaching knives and templates with different angles.

The angle of inclination of the cutting knife of the planer

The following information is given to help the reader properly understand the principles of planer blade sharpening. The bed of the planer is made at different angles to provide an angle of inclination suitable for various jobs. In practice, four angles are most commonly used: the regular angle, where the back of the knife bed forms a 45° angle with the sole (this angle is generally used for all softwood planers); York angle - 50 °, used for working with mahogany and other hardwoods; the average angle is 55° and the full angle is 60°, which are used on profile planers, the former for softwoods, the latter for harder woods.
On fig. 190 shows three angles: A - full angle of inclination. B is an ordinary angle and C is an ultra-sharp angle. The angle at which the cutter is set is of great importance. There are three angles here. The angle between the cutter and the surface of the workpiece (1) should be as sharp as possible. It is clear that if the surfaces of the cutter and the workpiece were perfectly parallel, then the cutter would slide over the surface without undercutting it, except when there is tremendous pressure on it. This angle, which may be called the clearance angle, must be large enough only to ensure that the cutter is in contact with the surface. The angle of the cutter itself (2). The sharper this angle, the better, as long as the cutter material withstands the stress and cuts the surface without losing the shape of its edge. (3) The frontal or residual angle can be obtained by subtracting both the angle (1) and (2) from 180° when dealing with flat surfaces.

How to sharpen electric planer knives without removing them?

It is important to implement for chip exit, however, in the case of a planer, this angle is reduced in order to prevent chips from breaking before cutting them. For planing soft materials a small angle is better. This refers to a thin knife, side surface which is almost in contact with the cut material; however, a more tenacious material will lend itself to the cutter being tested for strength, hence the appropriate angle must be increased and a stronger cutter is needed.
The steeper the knife angle becomes, the less likely it is that the wood will be pulled out when planing. However, at the same angle, the edge of the knife is quickly ground off, as a result of which it will most likely begin to jump. In planers with serrated knives, the knives are set at a right angle, and in an “old woman's tooth” planer, they are almost at a right angle. When working with right angles of the knife, the tool scrapes the workpiece, and the sharper the angle of inclination, the more its cutting action becomes similar to planing. For this reason, a planer with normal or over acute angle knife inclination more capable of planing wood; but in this case it is also possible to use a differently adjusted chipbreaker.

Rice. 190. - Three angles of planer stock
On profile planers with rounded blades, on selectors and onboard planers without a chipbreaker, it is preferable to use the full angle of the blade. At the same time, when facing, the best results are given by tools with sharper knife angles.
When considering the side face of the planer knife, it can be seen that it is made of iron coated with steel. Iron-welded steel, which is lighter in color and has a finer grain, acts as a cutting edge, and the iron is needed to give the knife more rigidity, which prevents it from vibrating. The newly sharpened planer knife has three angles (Fig. 191): A - the angle of the knife, B - the angle of sharpening on the grinding wheel, and C - the angle of the chamfer taken on the whetstone. The angles A and B do not change, while the angle C becomes more and more sharp with subsequent sharpenings on the whetstone until it merges with the line of the base of the planer, as shown in Fig. 192, when the knife stops cutting, it needs to be sharpened again. The angle of inclination of the knife A in the planer, as already shown, is different for various kinds plane.

Rice. 191.- Three angles of planer blade

Rice. 192. - Plane knife before and after sharpening on a grinding wheel

The blade of a carpentry tool is designed for wood processing. It experiences greater loads for a long time than the blade of a conventional knife.

Therefore, he is given original shape requiring sharpening in special ways. A quality cutting edge accessible to a beginner is created by a simple sharpening cart.

In an article based on personal experience collected practical advice for a home craftsman how to make a simple device for sharpening a planer knife or other tool with an explanation of the technology of operations with diagrams, pictures and a video.

The whole process of creating the cart took literally half an hour and took place in the kitchen. This technology is called: assembly on the knee or stool. It does not require sophisticated equipment, allows you to make a device from the most available parts. At the same time, nothing prevents you from assembling such a tool for professional work not from wood, but from metal, using professional equipment.

Planer blade geometry, chisels, chisels

The optimal profile of the cutting edge of the carpentry tool has been formed empirically. It is slightly different from the usual section of a conventional knife, blade.

Although the blade blade also has a rectangular shape.

V cross section a carpentry tool blade creates a one-sided profile.

It can be said that the plane of the descents is aligned with the approach, and the cutting edge is finally finished due to the formation of micro-leads during polishing on the grinding belt.

The sharpening angle can vary from 25 to 45 degrees. It depends on the density of the treated wood.

How to make a sharpener

First you need to prepare everything necessary equipment for assembly, and then proceed with the installation.

Preparatory stage

I needed to find consumables and assemble a simple tool.

Necessary materials

I made a sharpening cart from a wooden block and two pieces of laminate. The wheels were a pair of bearings of the same size. Their inner diameter turned out to be slightly less than the thickness of the selected wood.

I chose two screws with countersunk heads and a pair of six-centimeter studs with a diameter of 4 mm with ready-made curly nuts for fasteners. Thicker structures can also be used.

Tools

Ordinary is needed for drilling several holes. In addition to it, you will need:

tape measure, ruler or;
marking pencil;
sharp knife for woodworking;
hacksaw;
chisel;
hammer;
planer knife.

Manufacturing process

Creating a Cart Body

On a piece of laminate, I drew a center line with a pencil. On it I marked out two points in width slightly larger than that of a planer knife.

I drilled holes for 4 mm studs with a drill. Then I laid this laminate on top of the second one and, using the first element as a template, I drilled through it in the same way.

It turned out two blanks for attaching a planer knife with holes located a little more than its width.

Now we need to transfer this size to the body of the future sharpening cart. To do this, the prepared bar and the same drill made a through hole, retreating from its edge to a distance slightly greater than the width of the bearing wheel (photo 1).

It is convenient to do this kind of work. Since he was far away from me, I had to use a simple drill.

Inserted a pin into drilled hole and put a laminate blank on it (photo 2).

It served as a marking for drilling the second vertical hole (photos 3 and 4). At the same time, the shortcomings of working without drilling machine: deviation of the drill from the back side of the vertical line. The picture is not pleasant, but quite acceptable.

In order for the stud heads and fastening nuts to hide in the bar, it was necessary to perform a shallow countersink with a thicker drill.

Then I inserted the studs into the prepared holes (photo 1) and screwed the nuts on them from the back side.

After tightening the nuts tightly, the stud heads (photo 2) and the nuts themselves (photo 3) hid flush inside the wood.

On this bar, with the help of screws, I fixed the bottom plate of the laminate. It had to be drilled (photo 1, 2) and countersinked (photo 3.4) right on a wooden block.

I screwed the screws into the prepared holes with a screwdriver flush with the upper surface of the plate.

This photo shows another drilling defect, which was made during careless countersinking: to the right of the second screw, a large-diameter solid hole formed in the laminate. Reason: accidental pressure on the body of the drill during operation. Therefore, this operation had to be redone. Consider my mistake and drill carefully.

The excess part of the wood of the bar was simply cut off with a hacksaw.

It remains to fix the bearings on the prepared body of the trolley.

Wheel mounting

In the bar, I marked out the lines for installing the bearings with a pencil.

The width of the laminate plate (photo 1) and the option of the lower location of the wheels (photo 2) were taken as the basic dimensions. To do this, I used a piece of bar. Let me remind you that its thickness is slightly larger than the diameter of the inner race of the bearing.

It remains to work a little with a hacksaw.

And also use a chisel with a hammer.

The result was a body blank, on which it remains to fix the wheels.

To do this, he drew an center line for the centers of the bearings with a pencil, and also made the appropriate markings from the ends.

With its help, with a knife, he gave the rectangular protrusions the shape of a cylinder.

I trimmed the cuts with a rasp.

Installed bearings.

I lubricated their mounting plane for subsequent strength with glue and hammered it with a hammer until it was completely sealed.

I installed a second fixing plate from the laminate on top. I inserted a planer blade between them and fixed it at a certain angle to the surface of the base with fixing nuts. It turned out a homemade sharpening cart.

How to sharpen a planer knife

The first attempt to straighten the cutting edge showed good performance of the created device for sharpening carpentry tools, but immediately pointed out its shortcomings, which were made in a hurry.

What complicates the work of the sharpening trolley

About the body height

To create a high-quality cutting edge, it is necessary to correctly set the sharpening angle. It is formed by extending the planer blade used as the hypotenuse of a right triangle.

This factor must be taken into account when creating the height of the trolley. To form the sharpest corners, I needed to extend the knife as much as possible from sharpener, which is not very convenient.

Therefore, when setting up, I reduced the height of the fixture to a minimum, cutting off part of the body. It took only a few minutes, and the possibilities and ease of use of the tool have expanded.

About the width of the distance between the wheels

Here, too, a mistake was made. A wide cart requires a large-sized whetstone or sandpaper large area. It's not economical.

I reduced the distance between the ball bearings as much as possible, and they began to fit on a homemade one made by me from ceramic tiles. With its help it is convenient to carry out finishing of the cutting edge after its editing on a coarse-grained skin.

The body I made from a bar is more convenient to make from three components:

the lower one, which serves as the axle for attaching the wheels and is attached to the upper adapter;
medium rectangular;
top of the fixed mounting plate.

The lower blank with bearings can be made narrower than the width of the planer blade and fastened with separate screws to the middle one, and the studs can be placed in the middle and upper parts. In this case cutting tool will become more comfortable.

Sharpening technology

There is nothing difficult in this matter if the planer knife is correctly installed. Its plane of supply must exactly lie on the surface of the grindstone at the moment when the trolley is in working position. You need to pay attention to:

density and uniformity of surfaces fit;
strictly perpendicular position of the cutting edge relative to the direction of movement of the grinding cart;
no obstacles in the way of the wheels.

The sharpening itself is fast. My assistant is a student primary school performed this simple job with great interest, rolling the prepared device along an evenly spread strip of sandpaper.

He got a fairly satisfactory result: a completely normal, even cutting edge, but not a fully formed bevel plane at the bottom.

I have a little more work to do to fix this defect. Then he brought the cutting surface to a good condition on a homemade whetstone with a fine grain.

But even in this state, the planer began to plan wood well, creating thin and uniform chips.

Finishing the presentation of the material, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that devices for sharpening knives of a planer, chisel and other carpentry tools have various designs. The simplest ones are created from an ordinary wooden block, in which a cut is made at an angle to attach a cutting blade.

This bar is led along a grindstone. The sharpening is quite satisfactory, but there is additional friction of the wood, which, moreover, gradually wears down. And in the described design, rolling bearings remove this load.

Andrey Yarmolkevich talks about them in detail in his video “Sharpening a hand planer”.

Electric planers are an indispensable tool for modern carpenters, joiners, and all professionals involved in the processing of lumber. Their prevalence is caused by practical efficiency and the presence of significant advantages of this equipment compared to manual counterparts. To fully exploit the potential of the device, the blades for the electric planer must be pre-adjusted before processing the wood. Also, the blades must be sharp. This will allow, together with the correct setting of their position, to process significant volumes of boards or beams without any problems and effort on the part of the user.

Knives on the electric planer are consumables. They provide processing wooden surfaces.

Often knives come with a power tool in the amount of 2 pieces.

Electric planer knives are classified according to the following criteria:

reusability opportunities;
blade shape;
sizes of knife blades;
cost.

When buying an electric planer, in addition to checking its performance and configuration, attention should be paid to the quality of the knives installed on the drum and their sharpening. Blades should be sharp, with a smooth edge that does not contain bends or gouges. You should also check spare knives. From correct selection cutting nozzles depends on the final quality of lumber processing.

Knives intended for single use are made from steel-based hard alloys in the form of sharp plates on both sides. Such cutting parts are not subject to sharpening. After the used edge is completely worn out, the knife blade is turned over and installed on the drum with the other side. In this case, the tool continues to work. If the second cutting edge becomes dull, then the blade is simply thrown away.

Disposable knives are intended only for work that does not require high precision and quality of workpiece processing. But they are convenient in practical use: during installation, they do not need to be fine-tuned and balanced.

In the form of disposable products are:

straight;
wavy;
straight, but rounded at the ends.

The first type of products has a straight cutting part. It is convenient to use such consumables to process parts that have a smaller width than the length of the installed blade, to select quarters. Wavy knives are used when necessary rough processing lumber. With their help, you can give the wooden surface a different texture, for example, to simulate "aging". Straight cutting edges, rounded at the edges, are good because they do not leave marks (furrows, steps) on the surface of the treated wood. This suitable option if necessary work with wide wooden blanks.

Disposable blades have a longer lifespan, but can break quite easily if they accidentally collide with metal (for example, a nail, a bolt). Are the best option nozzles when it is necessary to work with blanks made of hard wood.

Reusable cutting attachments

Products that are intended for reusable use differ both in shape and size from disposable cutting tips. They are made using high quality steel, which ensures the ease and quality of processing wooden surfaces.

With reusable knives, you can achieve such a degree of smoothness of the surface of the workpiece that grinding is not required. They have HSS marking(completely High-Speed Steel, which translates as high-speed steel). Such blades are considered professional. Their installation is accompanied by high-precision balancing and adjustment. Sharpening should also be of excellent quality. At the same time, high-speed tool steel can be sharpened so that it is very sharp.

It is more profitable to buy reusable cutting nozzles, because there is the possibility of their repeated sharpening. But high-speed steel products do not allow processing hardwood (for example, larch or oak).

On the working drums of most models of electric planers, you can install both disposable and reusable cutting nozzles. But there are also devices that can only be equipped with blades that are not intended for sharpening. For this reason, when buying an electric planer, it is recommended to give preference to universal power tools.

Size classification

Electric planer knives can be standard or custom size . Products of the first type, called "plates", have a length of 82 mm, a width of 5.5 mm, and a thickness of 1.2 mm. Such cutting attachments are suitable for most models of electric planes from foreign companies Makita, Skil, Bosch, Black & Dekker.

Straight knives for electric planers Bosch, SKIL

Non-standard cutting nozzles with a larger width and thickness of the blades are typical for electric planers from Baikal and Interskol. Due to their parameters, they are stronger and better than standard plates. When hit on metal, such knives do not break. They can be sharpened with sandpaper. The width of the nozzles is about 1 cm. The length can be 82 mm, 102 mm, and for Rebir products it reaches 110 mm.

Straight knives for electric planer Rebir IE-5709

Cutting head price depends on the manufacturer. Also, this factor often determines the quality of the product. If you buy knives from well-known companies (for example, Bosch), then you can count on their long service life.

Some models of electric planers are equipped with cutting nozzles unusual shape and designs. In order not to be mistaken with the dimensions, it is recommended to take the old blade with you for comparison before buying.

When you need to adjust or replace the blades of the electric planer

Knives on an electric planer wear out over time. They need to be removed and sharpened or completely replaced, and then put back on the drum. Newly installed cutting attachments need to be adjusted in order to process the lumber as efficiently as possible. The blades of the new power tool also need to be pre-tuned. before use.

The appearance of the following symptoms indicates that adjustment is necessary:

change in sound when processing workpieces;
tool vibration during operation;
deterioration in the quality of planing lumber (the formation of waves, chips, grooves, protruding fibers and other defects);
an increase in work effort.

Sound change is not typical for all models. This symptom may also indicate a number of other problems.

If, after adjusting the knife blades, the above signs do not disappear, then a more serious repair of the power tool will be required.

Setting the correct position of the cutting nozzles is carried out according to the following parameters:

the height of the part of the blade that protrudes above the sole of the power tool;
the size of the side protrusion of the knife intended for sampling quarters.

Via correct adjustment the position of the knife blades on the drum achieves a high final quality of lumber processing.

How to properly adjust knives

Adjusting the knives on the drum yourself is not a big problem. To set the position of the tool blades before work, you will need:

a hex wrench that comes with a planer;
a metal ruler or a piece of glass of a suitable size.

The adjustment is made by performing all operations in this sequence.

In the considered sequence, the working position of the cutting edges is adjusted for models of electric planers with one, two or three knives.

It should be borne in mind that the working parts of straight knives should protrude by about 0.5 mm, and rounded ones by 1 mm or more.

If the adjustment is carried out correctly, then the cutting edges on the drum should be parallel to the sole of the power tool without distortion. A number of new models contain adjusting screws, which simply need to be tightened to set the blades in the desired position. To set up the tool, it must be disconnected from the mains, and in wireless models, the battery must be removed. This will ensure that the power tool does not spontaneously start.

Algorithm for replacing knives on an electric planer

To remove the knives from the electric planer and replace them with new (or properly sharpened) ones, you will need a set wrenches and, in some cases, a screwdriver. It is not required to assemble and disassemble the electric planer completely in order to change the working nozzles. Replacement is performed in the following sequence:

turn the drum, putting it in such a position as to gain access to the bolts of the knives;
loosen, but not completely, these bolts;

manually or using a flat screwdriver remove the working nozzle;
the rest of the blades are treated in a similar way;
put new knives in the nests, fixing them with bolts;
put them in the correct position.

The main point is the need to put the blades exactly in the sockets and fix them securely so that they do not fall out during the work with the tool. Due to the fact that for different models of electric planers the fastening of working nozzles may differ, it is recommended that you first read the operating instructions for the equipment used.

On sale you can find knives, the blades of which turn. This is very convenient, because it is enough just to turn the blunt edge over, replacing it with a sharp one.

When on the drum of an electric planer are installed two cutting attachments both need to be changed at the same time. This will prevent the occurrence of an imbalance, the consequence of which is a decrease in the quality of lumber processing and failure of the electric planer.

Sharpening electric planer knives at home

With the regular use of an electric planer for processing wooden surfaces (planing, sampling a quarter, chamfering), its cutting edges become dull. If the knives are intended for reusable use, then you can sharpen them yourself. Sharpening is carried out according to the same principle as for manual planers. The differences are only in the number of cutting edges that need to be sharpened.

Use blunt blade power tools not possible for the following reasons:

the load on the electric motor increases, as a result of which its wear is accelerated;
the quality of the surface treatment of lumber is significantly reduced.

Correctly sharpen the cutting edges of the working nozzles will help specialists of service centers or special workshops. If it is not possible to turn to professionals, then you can do all the work at home. To sharpen the blades yourself, you can use the following tools:

machine for sharpening knives;
ordinary whetstone (abrasive stone, whetstone);

emery;
file for metal;
grinding wheel.

You will also need special clamp to hold the part being sharpened.

Sharpening the blade with an abrasive stone is performed as follows.

Remove the working nozzles that need to be sharpened from the drum of the electric planer.
The knives are fixed with special screws in the clamp so that their cutting edges lie in the same plane.
Fixed blades with light pressure, smoothly drive over the surface of the abrasive, making sure that they are sharpened at the same time.
Inspect the sharpened parts for deviations, repeating the whole process if any are found.
Check the sharpness on any piece of the board.
Install the knife plates on the drum, adjusting their position.

Before performing work, it is recommended to pre-moisten the abrasive stone with water. It should be borne in mind that coarse-grained abrasive is intended for primary processing, and fine-grained abrasive is for finishing. It is recommended to maintain the original sharpening angle at the blade (approximately 30 degrees).

Considered manual way fits good for sharpening. If the edges are very blunt or have notches, then we sharpen them on the machine. In this case, you should carefully monitor so as not to remove excess metal from the blades.

If a grinding wheel is used, the part removed from the drum is driven along its surface with translational movements.

With your own hands, all actions should be carried out carefully, carefully handling the blades to avoid injury. High quality performing sharpening will appear with experience and skills.

The condition of the electric plane knives - their adjustment and sharpness - should be checked before starting the processing of lumber. Not only the quality of planing depends on this, but also personal safety. All operations for replacing, sharpening, setting up working nozzles must be performed only with unplugged power tool. To give the initial sharpness to the cutting edges, it is enough to use an ordinary whetstone.

Home » Articles » Construction and repair » Home workshop: how to manually sharpen a chisel

Everyone knows that the key to accurate and safe work is the use of a sharp, and most importantly, correctly sharpened tool. Good chisel without special efforts cuts wood, does not leave chips and rarely breaks, reducing the likelihood of damage to the workpiece and the hands of the worker. You can sharpen the tool yourself in two ways: on an electric machine or manually, using sandpaper and a simple fixture made in a home workshop.

The use of an electrically driven abrasive disc for sharpening chisels has disadvantages:

High cost of equipment: the price of a machine equipped with clamps and adjustable sharpening angle can reach several tens of thousands of rubles;
Tool heating: during machining, it is necessary to cool the surface after each pass. Otherwise, there is a risk of overheating of the metal and a change in its properties;
Concave bevel: the emery wheel is round, so the surface to be sharpened is not flat, but slightly dented. A working edge with a concave chamfer is considered less resistant.

Making a device for sharpening chisels

In most cases, it is enough to periodically edit the chisel by hand on an emery cloth, which provides a flat bevel and costs little. In each workshop, some trimmings of lumber constantly remain, choosing the right ones, you can make a simple device for sharpening chisels with your own hands. The photo shows a device with a sharpening angle of 25 °, for other angles, several such homemade products will be required.

Pieces were taken as a basis furniture chipboard and small wooden block 40 mm thick. I also needed a piece of dural profile for the stop (replaced with anything suitable, even thick plywood) and a few self-tapping screws. The dimensions in the drawing are not critical, the main thing is to make the correct angle of inclination.

All blanks are marked and sawn out, it is especially necessary to prepare the details for the moving part of the homemade product: a bar, two corners and an emphasis for a chisel. The elements are fastened together with screws, under which holes are pre-drilled.

Sharpening chisels on sandpaper

Sandpaper is placed on the stand, a chisel rests against it along the stop and is pressed with a finger or a clamp. The blade is sharpened with smooth movements back and forth.

First, a large skin is used until the entire cutting edge is covered with uniform risks. Then we draw the reverse side (back) of the blade along the sandpaper several times, removing the burrs.

We change the abrasive material to a finer one and repeat all the steps again. Final fine-tuning, after which there is not even small scratches, can be performed on a patch of skin using GOI paste or household cleaning powder.

How to sharpen a semicircular chisel

It is more difficult to manually sharpen a semicircular chisel, you have to perform arc movements while maintaining the desired angle of inclination.

It will be much more convenient if you put an emery sheet in the palm of your hand and bend it approximately in the shape of a point. We carry out a chisel from side to side, periodically inspecting the blade.

fine-tuning inside a semicircular chisel is carried out on a bar with an oval edge.

So, having only an emery skin and a simple device, you can keep your chisels in working condition. With careful manufacture, such devices are in no way inferior to expensive and complex factory counterparts.

Administrator

Hello.

It turns out that disposable knives for an electric planer can be sharpened. You just need to make a simple fixture and use it to sharpen knives.

How to make such a device, see the video clip.

I tried sharpened knives for making summer shower and a small building for gardening tools.

Planed about one cubic meter raw edged board 25 mm.

Sharpening knives for an electric planer: woodworking

This dulled both sides of the knives. It turned out that one side of the knives is enough for 0.5 cubes. I worked on the road ... the nearest store where you can buy such knives is more than 35 km away. so, the device for was useful for editing sharpening.

I also invite you to the premium section of the site, for this you just need to subscribe to the newsletter.

(it's free)

Sincerely, Alexander Klimov.

Workshop Tools, Carpentry Tricks Jun 21, 2017

Home craftsman: how to sharpen a planer

Why do you need manual sharpening
Sharpening planer knives on the machine and their adjustment
Conclusion on the topic

There are always a lot of tools in the workshop of a home master. How to sharpen a planer so that it is always in working condition? Every master who has a hand or electric tool should learn how to do this.

Carpentry tool for planing wood in the form of a wooden block with a wide blade.

Why do you need manual sharpening

Sharpening planer knives on the machine and their adjustment

Electric planer knives are consumables.

In most cases, when sharpening a planer, a special machine is used.

Learning how to sharpen a tool on it is quite simple - just read the instructions.

Sharpening knives for a planer in Moscow

Such equipment includes the Tormek machine (image 4). It is equipped with a powerful engine, has low speed, can sharpen a tool for a fairly long period of time.

High purity and precision of sharpening provides water cooling of the knife edge.

A common type of hand planer is its electric version.

His knives are consumables. There are usually 2 of them. They are mounted on a special drum and remove the top layer of wood on the workpiece. These products are made from a special grade of tool steel. They lend themselves well to sharpening. For some models, they are made of tungsten carbide, which is particularly durable.

The angle of the planer should be sharpened at an angle of 45 to 60 degrees.

Knives differ in their shapes.

They are:

straight;
rounded;
curly.

To do this, turn the planer upside down and look at the blade: its cutting edge should protrude 0.3-0.5 mm above the sole.

Interskol and Baikal planers are of very good quality compared to other manufacturers.

Adjust the blades if necessary.

For adjustment, the fixing screws are loosened, then the adjusting screws are turned in different directions until the knives take their place. After that, it remains to fix them.

New electric planers most often come adjusted from the factory. They can be used immediately. But the settings must be checked periodically, because they can change when the blade meets a knot or a nail. After adjusting the plane, they check it on an unnecessary bar or board.

The Baikal and Interskol planers have very reliable and durable blades.

They are slightly wider than other models, their thickness is also somewhat larger. They are sharpened in the usual way. The sharpening angle is approximately 30 degrees. In order for the planing quality to be high, the cutting edge should not have any burrs. To do this, sharpened knives need to be edited using a grinding wheel. The piece of iron is installed in the fixture and moved from one side to the other. The pressure on the wheel or touchstone should be minimal so as not to overheat the part. Thanks to this manipulation, the knife will receive a special sharpness.

When finishing with the use of various kinds of whetstones, water, oil, and kerosene are used as a coolant.

If the touchstone has a different structure on each side, then the coarse-grained side is used first, then the fine-grained one. The touchstone must be washed periodically so that it does not become salted.

Conclusion on the topic

Each owner should be able to sharpen and adjust the knives of a manual or electric planer.

After installing them, you should immediately try the work of the planer.

This method has been proven to prolong the life of the cutting elements. For proper sharpening, you need desire, an eye, skill and a steady hand. They must be accompanied by emery and grinding wheels, whetstones for finishing. It is good to get tools for attaching knives and templates with different angles.

Greetings.

Friends recently gave me, for a while, a thicknesser.

Since they used it during the year in construction for planing raw wood and didn’t particularly wonder about knives, sharpening and ...

In general, the knives on the machine turned out to be so blunt that, when removing only 0.5 mm, the machine hardly stretched a dry pine board and the surface turned out almost like after brushing, that is, the soft fibers were removed with knives, but the hard ones remained.

The task was to either replace the knives or sharpen them. Stopped to sharpen.

Undertook to look in our city where this can be done.

Planer knives. Replacement and sharpening angles

I found a knife for 200 rubles, though they were surprised that such small knives needed to be sharpened - 318 mm long and about 20 mm wide. This alarmed me a little ... I decided to see how you can sharpen it yourself.

I reviewed a lot of information, I even came across a story when a person gave sharpening short planer knives to a key-making workshop, they immediately requested all the payment, and upon receipt they gave the knives in the form of a trapezoid, when the person returned for regrinding, they did the same.

The result is thrown knives. The result of all these studies is well-sharpened knives at home. But as? Watch the video.

And yet, I invite you to the premium section of the site, for this you just need to subscribe to the newsletter.

(it's free)

I hope you find something useful for yourself.

Alexander Klimov

Workshop Equipment, Carpentry Tricks Feb 22, 2015

Get access to the premium section

The rest of the planes and bats do it yourself. Only sharpening ruler and bits

Construction tools

If you want the smooth surface quality to be perfect, the workpiece must be well designed.

Don't assume the sharpest tool you've just bought.

Sharp electric knives

New tools are mostly sold unchanged, so the point of the tool should be used before use. Irons and ironing tools, as well as bits that are sharp on grinding machine or on direct grinding moistened with water, oil or oil diluted with kerosene.

when focus The tool (oblicovochnuie-rabotui / instrument derevo.html) must always be at the same angle and sharpen the edge along the longitudinal movement with the same pressure over the entire surface of the door until it wears out.

Only sharpening ruler and bits

The rods must have two: the rough grinding of the sloping side, which must be sharpened on the front surface of the smooth surface, does not have a clear shape visible to the touch of the shank, and the fine ones that make this shank replace editing on both sides of the removal.

It is undesirable to use sharpening tools electrical grinding machines, because when working on them, tool steel (oblicovochnuie-rabotui / instrument-derevo.html) is often very hot and soft.

Combined instrument kits (oblicovochnuie-rabotui / instrument-derevo.html) with removable working attachments have been successful in practice.

A drill or a two-stage drilling machine is used as a drive mechanism. For widely used nozzles, circular saws, flat saws, grinding wheels, joint drills, the kit also contains a series of hammer blows, metal scissors.

An electric planer serves as an indispensable tool in the construction and repair of a house, as in any power tool, there are consumables in its device. At the electric planer, knives are consumables, with the help of which the tree is processed. As a rule, knives are double-sided, in a set of 2 pieces. Remember: if the planer does not remove chips well, and your knives are dull, then it's time to change them. But in this case, it is worth mentioning that some of them are simply subject to sharpening. To do this, you need to know how to set the knives of the electric planer after sharpening, and how to carry out the knife sharpening procedure itself.

Planer knives

Knives are mounted on a rotating drum of an electric planer and are designed to remove the top layer of material during the planing procedure. wooden products. If this tooling has 1 cutting edge or 2. The last blades are called rotary because their position is easily changed if one side becomes dull. Planer knives are made from tool steel or tungsten carbide. The first of them can be sharpened repeatedly.

Blades in shape are: straight - used for sampling quarters and planing narrow parts; rounded - intended for processing wide areas, because they make transitions between planing lines more accurate; wavy - figured knives for an electric planer are suitable for simulating "aged" surfaces.

Before using the electric planer, it is recommended to check every time that the knives are installed correctly. Their cutting edge should barely protrude outward and be parallel to the sole of the planer. To determine how the knife is adjusted, raise the tool to eye level with the sole up.

Above the sole, on average, the cutting edge of the knife should protrude by 0.5 millimeters. At the sherhebel, which is intended for the initial rough planing, the cutting edge must be released by at least 1 millimeter. It is very easy to adjust the position of the knife. Turn the small and large adjusting screws behind the electric planer knife platform left and right in sequence until the cutting edge is in the desired position.

After that, install the knife in the electric planer and fix the position with the centering lever and the screw on the top plate. With a new electric planer, as a rule, the position of the knife is already adjusted. However, after prolonged use, the setting will be lost. Therefore, if you are using a planer after a long break, you need to first check if everything is so. Do not immediately start working on details with a newly adjusted electric planer without trying it on an unnecessary board.

Classification of knives for electric planer

Also, electric planer knives are divided by size. If you have an imported plane, for example, from Black & Dekker or Skil, then there are traditional 82 mm knives, they are popularly called "plates". From inexpensive and high-quality, you can recommend knives from the manufacturer "Bison" made of carbon steel. These knives are suitable for most foreign planers, even for Bosch and Makita professional electric tools.

Accurate dimensions: length 82 mm, width 5.5 mm and thickness 1.2 mm. On sale you can find knives from various manufacturers and the price in this case depends on the company in the first place. If you buy Bosch ones, then the cost will be 2 times higher than that of ordinary household ones - Bison, Stayer, Fit, Matrix. Of course, the difference in quality will be quite noticeable.

There are knives that are specially designed for some models of electric planers. For the popular planes Interskol and Baikal, special knives are intended, they are wider than the "plates" and thicker. They are stronger, and when you hit a knot or nail while working with an electric planer, the knife will not break, and the notch can be easily removed on the sandpaper.

The width of these knives is always approximately 1 centimeter, they differ significantly from others. These knives for electric planes come in various lengths: 82 and 102 mm, for different models of Baikal and Interskol. If these knives become dull, you can always sharpen them yourself. Unlike thin ones, they can be sharpened on emery with sufficient sharpening skills and the ability to withstand a plane.

Well, the third type of knives for electric planes is wide and thick, with holes for mounting. They are very specific and only suitable for certain models, for example, for planers manufacturer Rebir, which have a power of 2000 watts. These knives are very thick and powerful, the width reaches 110 millimeters.

Changing electric planer blades

The highest demands are placed on electric planer knives. The fact that they are blunt can be easily determined by eye. To do this, look at the chamfer of the piece of iron and turn it around the cutting edge. The cutting edge is blunted if a shiny, thread-like strip appears at the end of the bevel at a certain position. The angle of sharpening the knife of the electric planer should be close to 30 degrees.

Today there are knives for electric planers using a rotary cutter. If one of these knife blades becomes dull, then it is customary to turn the knife over for the first time, and next time to replace it with a new sharp knife.

Knives for an electric planer are installed in a knife holder, which is placed in a conical transverse groove and clamped with three nuts. The height of the knives is regulated by two screws located at the edges. To remove the knife from the knife holder, loosen the nuts, tighten the screws to the end of the screws, which will help to push the knife holder out of the groove.

After that, it is necessary to select a drift that fits the thickness of the knife, and using it, knock out the knife from the knife holder in the transverse direction. Next, turn the knife over or take a new one if the old one is unusable, and carefully drive it into place, placing it on the side. Make sure that the knife enters the knife holder exactly parallel to it.

Having put new knives on the electric planer, you should set them in height with screws and tighten them with nuts. In this case, it is recommended to set the same clearance for both knives, otherwise the shaft will be unbalanced.

Editing on the donkey

When planing, reach good quality the treated surface is possible only when using a sharp knife in the planer. If the cutting edge is a little dull and has no notches, then it will turn out to be sharpened by editing. Dull or serrated blades should be ground to grinding wheel.

When grinding a knife on a grinding wheel, it is freely placed on a flat support surface or clamped into a sled. When grinding, the piece of iron must be moved along the grinding disc from side to side. Due to friction, the parts are heated. Therefore, it is necessary to apply moderate pressure when processing the product so that the cutting edge does not lose its hardness and does not turn blue.

The knife of the electric planer must be straightened after grinding. Only through this manipulation will he get the desired sharpness. For manual adjustment electric planer knives use artificial or natural bars called whetstones. In a machine way, a piece of iron can be straightened on a finishing disk.

On Belgian whetstones, dressing can only be done with the addition of water. On bars from Arkansas, for straightening, on the contrary, a mixture of oil and kerosene is used. Artificial donkeys come with different levels crushing. Many have coarse and fine grained sides.
The coarse side is for pre-dressing and the fine side is for fine dressing. To straighten knives on artificial whetstones, you can use a mixture of oils or water. In no case should you edit on a dry bar, because the blade will lose its hardening (let go) and will become dull. The bar needs to be washed from time to time so that the touchstone does not get salted.

When straightening, the chamfer is well rested against the bar and driven until it crosses, until it becomes as shiny as a mirror, and all burrs disappear. The front side of the piece of iron is only driven down and up along the touchstone, and the procedure for editing it takes less time.
The lapping disc is made from artificial material, which contains a finely dispersed abrasive agent. With the help of such discs, you can edit the knives for electric planers in machine mode.

Sharpening electric planer knives

Before the procedure for replacing the knives of the electric planer, you must first determine the need for it. It’s easy to find out: if the electric plane passes through the workpiece worse than before, then you need to start resharpening its knives. In addition, remember that blunt knives can increase the risk of kickback when hitting hard parts of the wood, such as knots.

The first step in sharpening an electric plane knife is to place an abrasive stone in water for a few minutes. The stone should absorb as much moisture as possible. This helps to avoid excessive dust formation and improves the quality of sharpening the electric planer. When sharpening knives, it is important to ensure that they touch the abrasive stone and at the same angle all the time.

The second stage is fixing the knives in a special block. To sharpen a knife for an electric planer with high quality, it is customary to use a special device, which will help to avoid violations of the geometry or balancing of the knives. Loosen the two nuts that secure the shoe clamp plate and insert the knives all the way into the electric plane knife sharpener. Then tighten the fixing nuts again. Make sure that the cutting edges of the knives are in the same plane.

The third step is the sharpening process itself. Sharpening knives for an electric planer must be done using a special technology. The steel on resharpenable knives is of such high quality that it allows you to sharpen your knives well and make them razor sharp. However, make sure that the balance of the knives is not disturbed. Since two knives are used in the electric planer, the issue of balancing is strict.

The straightness of the blade during sharpening is checked using any straight surface. The width of the bevel should be exactly the same along the entire length of the blade. Knives are usually sharpened on a hand sharpener. It is recommended to sharpen for so long until the finest burrs appear on the blade, which are difficult to distinguish by eye. Make sure that the bevel is even, without concavities and bulges. Burrs must be removed. To do this, when sharpening the knives of an electric planer, the knife is placed with the reverse side flat on the bar and carried out several times over it.

Assembly of electric planer knives

After sharpening the knife, first connect it to the overlay. It should protrude 3 millimeters beyond the edge of the lining. Completely assemble the tool, adjust the correct position of the knife so that its edge protrudes beyond the edge of the platform, as expected, by 0.5 millimeters. Connect the knife and the overlay with one screw. Loosen the screw, turn the knife 90 degrees and separate the parts.

First, attach the knife to the bar with a bevel and move it in this position back and forth at an acute angle of 30 degrees. When they arise cutting edge burrs, turn the knife over, place it flat on the block and move back and forth to remove the burrs. The edge of the knife should protrude 3 millimeters beyond the edge of the lining. The screw that fastens the blade and the knife must be tightened well so that even after prolonged use, both parts fit snugly against each other.

After you have sharpened the knives of the electric planer, you should immediately try out the blade by removing a few shavings. It has been proven in practice that the blade of a tool that is put into operation immediately after sharpening dulls less. To avoid frequent sharpening of knives on the grinder, carefully monitor the state of the piece of iron during work, and when the first signs of dullness (shiny stripes) appear, immediately correct the electric planer on the whetstone.

Now you know why it is so important to constantly monitor the position of the knives on the electric planer, adjust them in time, remove and install new pieces of iron. In addition, you always have the opportunity to sharpen the knives of the electric planer for special device and put them back on.