How to align a doorway. The door is twisted, led the door leaf how to repair the interior door? How to align a behavioral wooden door

The skew of the door occurs due to the violation of the geometry of the door frame. The doors open arbitrarily under the influence of their gravity, do not close well - they touch the porch or even jam. Let us consider in detail the possible causes of the skewed door and outline the procedure for solving the problem in each specific case.

From time to time, even the best of doors need repairs. Due to various reasons, they do not function as they should - they spontaneously open, touch the vestibule when closing, wedge. The main thing in such a situation is to determine the reason in order to outline a rational decision.

Causes of skewed doors

Examine the door carefully to determine the cause of the skew. Pay attention to the condition of the hinges, evaluate the strength of the fastening of the door frame in the opening. Next, examine the condition of the locks and the door leaf as a whole.

The skew usually occurs due to one of the following reasons:

deformation or loosening of the hinge attachment;
deformation of the door frame;
violation of the geometry of the door leaf.

What to do if loops are to blame

With long-term operation of the doors, due to wear of the hinge surfaces, the door leaf gradually sags. In this case, the lower edge of the door touches the threshold. The problem can be solved radically - by replacing the hinges, or in a simpler way - by installing a steel washer of a suitable size or a wire ring between the hinges. The second method is cheaper, but it can be recommended as a temporary one: after all, the washer, and even more so the wire ring, is quite noticeable and does not look aesthetically pleasing.

An important point: when buying hinges, pay attention to the size and thickness of the plate, as well as the location of the holes for the screws, these parameters of the old and new hinges must match. The easiest way is to remove the old hinges and go to the store with them. If you cannot find hinges that are exactly suitable in terms of parameters, take hinges with a larger mounting plate, but in this case, the seat for them will have to be increased using a chisel. The loop should fit snugly in the groove. If the holes for the screws do not match, you will have to make new ones. But the old holes must be hammered in with wooden pegs, previously greased with glue.

Skewed doors can be caused by deformation of the hinges under excessive load, when the weight of the door leaf is too large for a given configuration. In this case, replacement of the hinges with new, more durable ones is required. In some cases, it is recommended to install an additional loop for the most rational distribution of the load.

Another reason for skewing due to the "fault of the hinges" can be the weakening of the screws. The solution is obvious: replace the screws with longer ones. If even a long screw scrolls and does not hold well, before screwing in, it is necessary to squeeze a little PVA glue into the hole. Tighten the screw the next day after the glue dries.

Eliminate door frame defects

Over time, the door frame can loosen in the fasteners and sag. There can be many reasons: installation errors, the effect of moisture, significant weight of the door leaf, long-term operation. The problem can be solved by strengthening the door frame fasteners or radically by reinstalling. The choice of method depends on the state of the attachment.

In any case, you will need to remove the platband and assess the situation. Pay attention to the integrity of the box, the strength of its installation in the opening (staggering or not) and the condition of the foam.

If the connection of the elements of the box is broken, remove it and repair it: restore the fastening with self-tapping screws (the parts must first be "put" on glue). Then put it back in place.

If everything is in order with the state of the connections, the cause of the skew may be a violation of the geometry of the box: it sank somewhere, you need to determine in which direction it was "led". The main load falls on the frame of the box, on which the hinges are located. Most often, it is this side that looses, pay attention to it first.

In such a situation, you need to remove the polyurethane foam - completely or in a separate area. Next, you need to put the box in the correct position and fix it with wooden wedges. The wedges need to be knocked out in pairs, opposite each other (on each side there are two wedges supporting each other, so you will ensure the most reliable fixation of the box in the opening). After hammering in the wedges, check that the installation is correct - hang the door and check how it closes, whether the locks and latches work. The door should not touch the frame; the same gaps should remain around the perimeter.

Next, you need to close the door tightly, and insert strips of cardboard folded several times around the perimeter between the canvas and the box in order to exclude the possibility of deformation of the box due to the expansion of the mounting foam. The next step is to fill the space between the slope and the box with polyurethane foam. Wait until it is completely dry. Better to leave the box for a day. Then cut off the excess and reinstall the platband.

Misalignment due to the fault of the door leaf

Doors made of wood are sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature - the swelling of wood fibers can lead to a change in the size of the leaf (doors do not close because they are swollen when open, or, on the contrary, the doors are jammed due to swelling when closed).

In such a situation, first of all, it is necessary to eliminate the cause - bring the microclimate parameters to normal: correct operation of ventilation and maintaining a sufficient temperature level are important.

If the integrity of the door leaf is preserved and the door is just a little swollen, it may be possible to solve the situation by restoring a normal microclimate - the doors will return to normal without outside help.

In a more difficult situation, one can observe an increase in the size of the panels and, as a result, the destruction of the connection of the door leaf elements. In this case, it is advisable to contact a carpentry workshop - it will be difficult to restore integrity without special equipment.

What to do if the door is jammed

If, due to any of the above reasons, the door is jammed and it is impossible to open it, try to "reanimate" - still enter the room for further investigation - to find out the reasons for the skew and solve the problem.

First, check the operation of the locks and latches (to exclude the possibility of jamming due to the fault of the fittings). Next, gently tap the door with a hammer around the perimeter - be sure to put a plate under the hammer so as not to break the coating. If the door does not give in to mechanical stress and still firmly "sits" in the opening, dismantle it: remove the platbands, remove the mounting foam, the fastening anchors can be cut with a hacksaw blade. Pull out the door unit carefully and remove the cause of the jam using one of the methods described above.

Despite the simplicity of the design, the installation of doors requires accuracy, and compliance with several rules, then the porch will be tight and further operation will not require your intervention. Over time, various defects may appear, creaks may appear, or, conversely, an overly light porch.

There can be several reasons, from improper installation of the door frame to deformation of the door leaf due to high humidity.

Has the door been twisted? How to fix a skewed door with your own hands?

To eliminate the defect on your own, it is necessary to establish the cause of its occurrence, and only then choose a way to eliminate the trouble. Over time, wooden doors and frames can change shape, and door hinges can loosen in their fixings. For a more durable fixation of the hinges, it is enough to change the old screws for larger ones, and if this does not solve the problem, it is necessary to change the hinge seats. They can be moved up or down depending on their location.

To check the correctness of the geometry and find out the place where the revision will have to be done, it is necessary to remove the door leaf and measure the dimensions of the leaf and the opening of the door frame diagonally. The difference in size is unacceptable, and if there is, then this defect must be eliminated.

Pay attention to the corners, they must be straight, use the construction angle-template for measurement. Any flat strip can be used to check the plane of the door leaf and door frame. The surface should be flat, if there are gaps, it means that the wooden elements are deformed, and it will not be possible to fix this defect on our own. Such changes are possible if the manufacturer used raw wood or poorly processed it with a moisture-repellent compound.

If the geometry of the door frame is broken, the only way to fix it is to dismantle it. Position the door frame correctly using a level and secure with polyurethane foam. After drying, once again make sure the opening is installed without deviations, remove excess foam and cover the repair site with slopes.

Have Installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, oh mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate the installation and fly into a "pretty penny"!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, prevent mistakes in the choice of doors, fittings and in the size of the openings, help the craftsmen to do everything efficiently.

Dimensions of doorways

Opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

Opening height

For all cases, the correct opening height is the door leaf height + 6cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings:

Cloth 80x200 (see) - opening 89x206 (see)
70x200 - opening 79x206
60x200 - opening 69x206
60x190 - opening 69x196

You need to decide on the size of doorways in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team yourself during the repair process.

Door width for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about which door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that you can bring in / take out furniture. Width 90cm. it happens very rarely, since such canvases are heavy and over time can sag on the hinges.
the doors in the bathroom are usually made 60-70cm so that a 60cm thick washing machine can freely pass through the opening. Please note that 60cm. the door assembly has a clear opening of about 58cm. because of the porches in the door frame.
the door leaf to the kitchen is usually 70-80cm. It should also be taken into account that handles on both sides can interfere with the passage into the kitchen.
in the dressing room, they usually make a width of 60-70cm.

When do you need to install additional components?

When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the platbands on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully form the slopes. The color of the addons can be matched, for example, under the MDF panel.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm.), Then the extensions must be spliced in width or non-standard extensions must be ordered from production, which will cost much more.

On which side of the door to install extensions?

It totally depends on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is exposed flush with the room wall, and the complement will be in the corridor, respectively.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will rest against the door). Sometimes they resign themselves to this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, it is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Interior door opening scheme

Usually, if in one corridor part of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the peculiarities of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper platbands will not match.

This is how the door looks from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, on us:
This is what the door looks like, which opens into the room, that is, inside:
It is necessary to ensure that the blade does not close the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide for an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door that is 90 degrees open does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time on coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

How high should the door be from the floor?

The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disrupt the flow of air. If you have plastic windows, do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the vents are closed.

Installation of interior doors when renovating an apartment and the order of work stages.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during the repair, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing works, including in the neighboring rooms.

Doors that are installed early can be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, dry for quite a long time, releasing moisture into the room. An increase in humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing normally.

However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you have a finished floor ready!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and then it is easier to install them, with a clear abutment of the platbands to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (base floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, as it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to calculate correctly the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coverage, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip in a new coating. In this case, the racks will not go down but will remain hanging.

What if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?

A common mistake of the repair crews is too high openings, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208 ~ 209 cm, and better - 206 cm. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make warm floors and the height after installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper platband did not close the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than what you need, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper platband, but usually they are mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut them off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation in this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than the required one from the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the polyurethane foam helps to withstand even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden bar with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the stage of repair using foam blocks and tile glue.

How to align a crooked doorway?

First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions, attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the snug fit of the platband to the wall.

To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings should be parallel, the walls should be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, proceed as appropriate.

If you understand that the opening is a curve and goes more than 1 cm from the vertical, you can align the walls with plaster on the lighthouses by placing them vertically and re-glue the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a crooked opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Suppose the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is heaped from the vertical by more than 1 cm by two meters of the opening height. Then you have three ways out:

Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the platbands will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and, probably, will close on its own, slam, etc.
Install the box vertically in level, while the platbands adjoin in the upper part and move away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), impairing the aesthetics.
Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deepening into the wall and sliding, where necessary, platbands from the grooves. This is a good solution to the problem, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will pull out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because this is a compromise.

What if the door is located close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil the appearance of the door, see photo: However, there are several other options for solving this problem:

If the repair has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw a wooden bar with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install the whole platband close to the wall.
Extend the doorway at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening during the repair phase. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
Extend the doorway at the repair stage by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm less wide, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm ..

Installation of an interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, therefore, the sill covering the floor joint when the door is closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake of repair crews is the wrong position of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram of the opening of all doors in advance and hand it over to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.

Installation of interior doors to the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors with a height of 2 meters. For bathrooms in new homes, a 1m-high canvas is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm., Then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, since the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are disturbed, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparation of openings for interior doors

Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with plaster putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for the door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile in the vertical ends of the opening necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed to securely fasten the doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the opening area. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and will quickly sag.

If a bar is laid inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not stick well to galvanized metal. Peeling is possible over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum fiber board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between drywall sheets in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and for its straightening, for example, with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparing the opening for sliding doors

For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for a standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with docks and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum upper rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing the doorway (portal) in the apartment

If you don't want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in a small apartment, so it is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent spaces: a hallway and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. A doorway without the usual door amazingly transforms the room:

Preparing the floor covering before installing the doors

A common mistake of repair teams when laying flooring when the gap between the flooring and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.

A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible extensions of the floor covering.

Keeping doors after purchase

To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on a flat surface lying before installation. Doors can be placed sideways against the wall.

Doors, platbands and frames can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the rise in humidity after a cold warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which hinges to choose?

If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops of 10 cm each.
If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg., Then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, the thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. The most common door hinges are of several types:

universal hinges- these are traditional mortise hinges familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a matter of principle, buy universal hinges. They can be opened both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

- not cut-in, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for a special unusual design - both of its elements in the open state resemble the wings of a butterfly. In the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily enters the other, forming a single whole. Usually such hinges are placed on lightweight doors.

- time-tested mortise hinges, a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening

How to choose locks and latches?

Locks and latches are best chosen based on the quietest operation of mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought at a higher price and preferably Italian, there are very high quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around from knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are familiar with these models.

Classic latches / locks can be purchased. It is best to choose them with plastic tabs, as they are the quietest to use and do not clang like metal.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch does not work well. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tab.

Height of the door handle from the floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays, many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the door design, should be located strictly in the middle of the door leaf. Therefore, the standard for the height of the handles for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models of door handles come with too long self-tapping screws, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw the handles with their own self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right master for installing an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to make the right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of the door installation wizard?

Look at the quality of inserts of locks, joints of boxes and platbands, inserts of hinges. There must be no gaps
The tongue of the lock must fit into the striker plate without play.
The blade should adhere evenly along its entire length to the rebate or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed with the canvas
The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
The box is fixed in the opening not only with construction foam, but also with fasteners
The blade must not open or close on its own.
Hardware should rotate freely
The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work, which cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installer? Basic methods.

1. The master must narrowly specialize in the installation of doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). The foreman or the team must have at least 1 year experience and give Professional must be available: a saw for cross-cutting, a saw table or a hand circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a hammer drill, a hairpin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read

A door that suddenly stopped easily and without the slightest resistance to let you into a house or room is an unpleasant surprise. And in such a situation, you should not rely on the Russian "maybe", hoping that this construction "will come to its senses by itself" and return to its original state. It is much easier and safer for you to personally figure out what to do if the door is skewed, and to implement the chosen solution, that is, to adjust this very door.

Reasons for door skew

If the door is wooden, then the cause of the distortion was most likely the effect of moisture. Water, having got into the thickness of the door, made it swell, and as a result, the door began to "cling" to the door frame.

A heavy wooden door can also warp due to the wrong selection of hinges for it. Remember that solid wooden doors (which you could hardly tear off the floor before you hung them in the doorway) should be hung on three hinges, not two.

But metal doors are not subject to deformation under the influence of water. But they can just as well be skewed if the loops were incorrectly selected for their weight. Another reason why a metal door can be skewed is its incorrect initial installation.

In addition, both wooden doors and metal doors can be skewed due to a violation of the geometry of the doorway. This often occurs in new houses in which the shrinkage of structures is still continuing.

Misalignment due to door hinges

If, in your opinion, the cause of the skew is the wrong number of door hinges (or the use of hinges made of softer material than necessary), there are two ways to go:

firstly, just replace the loops with more powerful ones;
secondly, add a third (and if necessary, a fourth) loop.

Now in hardware stores you can find door hinges that do not require insertion into either the door leaf or the frame. Therefore, they can be installed in place without even removing the door leaf from the hinges (just do not forget to first correct the position of the door before screwing new hinges to it).

Perhaps a small washer placed in the middle of the door hinge will also help solve the problem. It will raise the entire door leaf by 1-2 millimeters (depending on its thickness) and the problem will be solved.

Change the geometry of a doorway

In this case, the likelihood that the door itself will stop clinging to the bottom or top of the door frame still exists. However, while this happens, the door leaf can be severely damaged.

Before you make the final decision - to outweigh the door, undermine it (this is when it comes to a wooden door) or leave everything unchanged - pay attention to the gaps that have appeared between the door leaf and the frame. If they become very noticeable, it is better to outweigh the door. Do not forget to also track whether the right angle between the horizontal and vertical elements of the door frame is preserved. If the skew becomes severe, you will have to change the door frame. You can also try simply rearranging the old door frame if you can pull it out carefully.

Swollen door

If the wooden door has absorbed water and swelled, then you should not hope that when it dries it will return to its previous shape. Most often, after exposure to water, the warping process begins, and the door will still not close perfectly. In this situation, you can also choose one of three solutions:

for now, leave everything as it is in the hope that the door will “come to its senses”;
replace the door leaf;
replace the door frame.

However, first of all, you need to eliminate the reason why the water got so close to your door. If we are talking about doors inside an apartment or house, then the reason usually lies in poorly working ventilation. Most often, bathroom doors suffer from moisture, so be sure to check if a piece of paper is attracted to the ventilation grill located there with one open window in the apartment. If there is no traction, then the issue of ventilation will have to be tackled closely.

Most often, poor ventilation occurs in houses and apartments in which new plastic windows have been installed. The absence of cracks, for which the old wooden windows were "famous", led to the fact that air from the street enters the apartment only when the window is open. And since the vents rarely open in winter, the ventilation in the kitchen (if there is no electric hood) and in the bathrooms stops working. To solve this problem, it is recommended to install exhaust valves on all windows (or just keep one window always ajar).

If the entrance wooden door has suffered from the impact of water, then you will have to make a visor over it (and if there is one, then expand it so that drops do not fall on the door leaf during the rain). It is also recommended to cover the wooden door in several layers with protective compounds for wood (from all sides, each time waiting for them to be completely absorbed).

The annoying problem of sagging doors

The annoying problem of sagging doors, especially wooden ones, can happen for a number of reasons.

The root causes may be different, but each of them leads to the fact that the door may not close at all over time, scratch the floor and completely stop serving. It is permissible to correct the situation with your own hands.
Interior door sagged what to do? Video

Replacing or adjusting doors if the interior doors have sagged

Replacement and adjustment of doors
Repair of doors is required over time to any overlap of the opening of adjacent rooms.
The door structure is not only a decorative element of the interior design of the home, but also the main functional detail, which is simply indispensable in everyday life for a comfortable stay at home. After all, the door is so necessary in buildings of any type of purpose of use:
Protects the room from drafts;
Separates adjoining rooms with respect to functional purpose;
Creates a cozy atmosphere and plays a decorative role in stylistic design.

Not only a serving door can fail, but also a completely new product due to improper installation, shrinkage of the structure as a whole, and so on.
In many cases, households begin to think about the prompt replacement of the door, which has ceased to be visually attractive and has lost a number of functionality. If the question arises as to whether it is necessary to replace the block with something new, or to start repairing the doors, then know that even an inanimate interior detail requires attention and care.
The product may cease to please for a number of reasons that can be corrected with your own hands:
The door leaf made of natural solid wood cracked.

Such a visual misunderstanding is corrected by restoration work or decoration, the list of which is simply unthinkable for selection. The whole process, both restoration and decorative finishing of the door leaf, is reproduced by hand in everyday life with little financial costs.
If the restoration involves a comprehensive list of works, then it is permissible to reproduce decorating the sash with your own hands without even removing it from the hinges: decoupage, painting, and so on.
The structure of the slab was loosened.

You can also strengthen the door frame with your own hands at home. For what it is just worth disassembling the block with the help of a simple tool that every home craftsman has or borrowing from a neighbor for a short period of time. In this case, you may only need to strengthen the door frame at the installation site, tighten the hinges, or tighten the canvas itself, that is, to strengthen the loosened or cracked panels of the wooden structure.
Nasty, cutting hearing and nerves, squeak.

Lubricate the door

The squeak of the opening or closing sash is often caused by the friction process of the pins that are the elements of the door hinge. The reason for the squeak may also relate to the poor fastening of the loops themselves to the loop bar or the end of the canvas.
To eliminate a sharp sound, it is recommended to view the fastening of the loops and lubricate them with machine oil, or use graphite, pieces of which are inserted into the loop gaps.
Doors close poorly.

The door made of wood does not open or does not close, then its problem is hidden in the conditions of internal use. Over time, any product made from natural solid wood can swell, that is, significantly increase in size around the perimeter. The door still does not close due to a violation of its geometry: it swelled, led, sagged the door, loosened the hinges, led the box, and so on.
The reasons for the fact that the sash does not coincide in geometry with the box may be mass. If the door has already sagged thoroughly, then it is recommended to tackle the issue seriously, which we will talk about below.
Possible causes of the malfunction

If the structure has subsided slightly or fairly, then this is indicated by the following visual circumstances of the functional activity of the unit:

The first light scuffs of the door sill, due to the fact that the doors do not close well;
Damage to the flooring, when the door does not close at all, that is, it does not fit snugly around the perimeter of the box;
There are clear gaps around the entire perimeter.

Upon confirmation of at least one of the above violations in the quality service of the floor unit, there is only one conclusion - the door has sat down with a violation of the geometry of the fit. Before at least some door adjustment is undertaken, it is worth examining the unit for a malfunction, and only then get down to work.
The main reasons why an interior door from a natural solid wood or from another material for internal use does not open include the following misunderstandings:

Move the hinges away from the installation site;
Deformation of the door frame;
Violation of the geometry of the sash itself;
Swelling of a canvas made of natural solid wood.

It is permissible to correct many shortcomings with your own hands, but for work it will be required in all the listed cases:

PVA glue or other adhesive for working with wood;
Screwdriver or screwdriver;
Self-tapping screws;
Plane, chisel;
Hammer.

You may also need another simple household tool, which, if you do not have it in the pantry, it is permissible to ask for a loan from a neighbor.
Inspection and repair of hinges

First of all, if the door has sagged, it is recommended to inspect the hinged awnings, since the reason is most often hidden in them. To correct and return the functionality of the sash, repair of the doors is not required, you just need to remove the canvas from the hinges, inspect them and correct them. The answer to the question of how to remove the door from the hinges is simple:

Open the sash;
Substitute a crowbar or other convenient object under it;
Using a crowbar (or with your hands), lift the canvas from bottom to top.

Thus, the sash will be freed from the hinges, but now it must be safely held so as not to damage it. For these purposes, if such works are being reproduced for the first time, invite a household member to be an assistant, who will at least support the canvas so that it does not collapse.
Usually, the hinges are fastened to the hinge bar (door frame rack) using wood screws. If the door sags strongly, then:
It is recommended to drive wood wedges under the unscrewed screws into the holes, then mount the hinges on the screws in place.

Pre-dip the wedges in PVA glue (or carpentry). To fix the hinges, use longer fasteners, and hang the door itself 24 hours after the adhesive has dried.
If the situation has not been corrected with the overlap sagging after the hinges have been reinforced with wedges and new self-tapping screws, then it is recommended to change the previous hinge installation location.

In this case, you can use the old hinges, but place them on the hinge bar in other places, as well as at the end of the sash itself.
The insertion of hinges in new installation locations is done in the same way. The main thing is to correctly calculate the vertical axis of the location of the looped canopies, and the distance between each other. The grooves in the wood are made using a chisel and impact with a hammer. The chisel is best used with a straight blade.
If the door sags in a short period after installation, then the problem lies in the large weight of the sash itself, which the hinges cannot withstand.

The situation can be corrected simply by adding additional loops. You can cut in the third loop, placing it at a distance of about 10-20 cm under the upper canopy. Or install an additional loop by moving the upper one slightly higher.
If the door has sat down after a long service life, then this may indicate wear on the hinges.

With a long period of service, the core is worn out in the hinges, which can be simply replaced. But this may not improve the functionality of the old hinges, as they also wear out over time. Better to buy new hinges.
With a slight sagging of the door leaf, the hinges can not be replaced, but slightly corrected.

In this case, the doors are adjusted using a steel ring, which must be laid under the metal core of the element. A bearing ball of the right size in relation to the diameter can also help.
If this is not enough to correct the situation, then a substrate can be made under the hinges, which will slightly lift them from the loop bar.
Do not forget that after manipulating the loop awnings, it is recommended to lubricate them with machine oil for prevention.

We identify the deformation of the door frame

After you have managed to adjust the door on the hinges, it may happen that it does not open or closes poorly. So the hinges were not entirely to blame here.
The problem is most likely in the absence of the required functional clearance between the frame of the structure and the sash.
To identify such a problem, you will need a building level, which checks the vertical and horizontal of the structure. During the closing process, the door can cling to the box in any part. If a clear violation in the installation or a slight deformation of the box is determined, which is possible after a long period of operation of the unit, then the problem is solved by lightly cutting the fabric of the structure exactly at the place where the problem occurs.
It is worth noting that before, how to tackle the cutting of the door leaf, you need to thoroughly make sure that it is the box that has not succumbed to strong deformation. Otherwise, efforts will be reproduced in vain, and the canvas will be spoiled.
The fundamental deformation of the frame is the most difficult problem associated with the door structure of the floor. Adjusting the doors in this case will not help if you do not completely redo the box. After all, how to adjust the door, if the base of the floor has succumbed to movement. If we ignore the deformation of the box, then, in addition to displacing the canvas diagonally, over time, the racks will come out of the plane of the opening.

The skew of the frame is corrected by the following manipulations:

The overlapping sheet itself is removed from the loop awnings;
Measurements of the vertical and horizontal of the installation of the racks are carried out;
The diagonal of the opening is checked;
The place of displacement is found;
All decorative elements are removed from the ceiling: add-ons, platbands;
Fixing bolts are screwed into the frame structure, which will correct the situation;
Building materials are removed from the gaps: plaster, polyurethane foam;
In the necessary places, spacers are installed for the frame, which in the future will hold it in the correct position;
Finally, the gaps are foamed and plastered again;
Platbands and extensions are installed in place.

Violation of the geometry of the door leaf

Natural solid wood is a very valuable product, especially in a home environment.
Natural materials have always been valued. If a table made of solid wood or other decorative object of a dwelling does not require a certain degree of attention and constant care, then if a wooden door has sat down, you may be to blame here.
Doors made of wood do not close properly due to their swelling or, conversely, drying out. This can happen because:

That the humidity rate in the room is not maintained;
The block may not be treated with protective agents or special impregnations;
The installation itself could take place, for example, in the winter season, when the unit did not have time to acclimatize in the indoor heated room;
Installation of solid wood structures is not recommended in openings of rooms with constant temperature drops and humidity fluctuations: bathrooms, showers, and so on.

If the door has already sagged, then you should not immediately run to the construction center for a new replacement from the combined material. Do-it-yourself repair of doors made of solid natural wood is very simple using a conventional planer or a more modern tool.
It is possible to adjust the sash to the parameters of the box by cutting problem areas on the canvas. Before starting work, you need to do at least visual measurements:

Close the door;
Estimate the dimension of the existing gaps;
Remove the door from the awnings;
Sew the harness in certain places.

Any flaws in the design of overlapping the openings of adjacent rooms can be corrected with your own hands. If the methods of correction do not lend themselves, then it is better to invite a specialist to your house. After all, it is cheaper to eradicate faults immediately, since over time they turn into major breakdowns.

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