How to grout tiles on the floor in the bathroom. Smooth and beautiful: do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom - how to do the job right

First of all, let's figure it out - when do you need to grout tiles? Usually, the masters advise starting this work not earlier than a day after the installation is completed, but you should not put it off for a long time. And this period is determined for many reasons:

On the second day after the completion of laying, the adhesive composition has not yet completely “grabbed” and it is possible to easily clean off the dirt and stains missed the day before;
The moisture remaining in the tile contributes to better absorption of the grout composition, forming a single surface. Conversely, a special wetting of completely dry joints only leads to an increase in water in the grout, making it liquid and less elastic. And such a mixture is more problematic to apply, and it is more difficult to evenly distribute.
Leaving open tile joints for a long time is not recommended due to the possibility of contamination. Experience shows that small particles of debris and even settled dust make it difficult to apply any mixtures or coatings. And if we are talking about a room where other repairs are being carried out, then it is very difficult to ensure cleanliness, especially on tiles laid on the floor. Therefore, if you do not want to add problems to yourself, you should not put off grouting.

Traditionally, the color of the grout is selected in accordance with the color of the tile. According to generally accepted design rules, no more than two primary colors are used in the interior of one room. Therefore, some deviations in the intensity of shades of grout and tiles are allowed, but not a difference in color. When combining tiles of different colors, as well as when using decorative inserts, you should stock up on grouts of the appropriate colors.

If it was not possible to find a grout suitable for the color of the tile on sale, then the problem can be solved by making it yourself. To do this, take a white mixture and add to it the required amount of color for water-based paint. Gradually mixing a certain color, you can give the grout the desired shade.

There is one secret here: the color of the wet solution is more intense than the one that will be obtained when the mixture dries. When adjusting saturation, you need to remember this feature in order to select the desired color as accurately as possible.

For white floor tiles, it is more prudent to immediately choose a light gray grout - since it is very difficult to achieve its ideal whiteness when using the floor.

Depending on what methods of grouting the tiles you plan to use, you may need the appropriate tools: a container with a volume of not more than 1.5-2 liters (a small plastic bucket or bowl); a convenient metal spatula for mixing the finished mixture, a foam rubber sponge, a clean rag and a bucket of water. But the main tools in the work will be a special plastic spatula with a rubber tip or a cheaper option - a rubber spatula, although such savings are not always justified.

Applied technology for grouting ceramic tiles and calculating the amount of material

As in the calculation of others building mixtures, it is quite difficult to calculate the estimated grout consumption in advance. Even the figures indicated by manufacturers on the packages very often differ, and the most unpleasant thing is when the mixture suddenly ends during operation, absolutely not justifying the declared consumption rates.

To reduce such calculations, when purchasing a grout, you should consider:

Tile texture. It is more difficult to collect excess mixture from a relief surface, therefore the grout consumption will be greater.
Tile sizes. It's simple math here more area each fragment, the fewer seams on the surface. Thus, when grouting joints between small tiles, the mixture is consumed more, and vice versa - the larger the tile, the less grouting will go.
Seam width. It depends on the size of the crosses used when laying.

For calculations, the ratio of 400 g of the mixture per 1 sq.m of laid tiles is taken as a basis standard size, supplementing or reducing the amount of grout, depending on the above conditions.

When all the materials and tools are ready, you need to understand how to use tile grout.

The main stage - applying grout

First of all, you need to prepare the mixture. Do this immediately before starting work, since the solution is not stored for a long time and freezes after 15-30 minutes. For the same reason, they prepare it in small quantities, especially if there are few skills in the work. Dilute the dry mix clean water, according to the instructions. And at this stage it is very important to mix the components correctly, otherwise you can spoil the material - both too liquid solution and too thick are not suitable for work. After stirring the mixture, it is allowed to stand for five minutes, and then thoroughly mixed again. Everything, the solution is ready! Let's get the spatula!

When the processing of the tile joints after grouting is completed, the surface is left to dry completely. Usually, under the condition of an average daily temperature in the room of 16-26 degrees and relatively low humidity, an hour or an hour and a half is enough. But lowering the temperature by 3-5 degrees can delay this process.

As for the readiness of the floor tiles for use, although the grout in the joints dries out after an hour, you can walk or place furniture on the floor no earlier than three hours later. The fact is that small specks or sand that accidentally get into a weak grout solution can violate the integrity of a neatly made seam.

Final work

When the grout is already completely dry, it's time to remove the remaining white coating and finally put the tiled surface in order.

The intensity and amount of plaque on the tiles depends on how thoroughly the foam sponge was washed and how often the water in the bucket was changed. But even if the tile needs a good cleaning, this is not difficult to do.

The best and most effective way will be directed from the hose clean running water- fast, clean and no need to rub anything. But it is not always practical to apply such a method. Therefore, the “dry” method of cleaning is more often used. To do this, use a dense, preferably felt, rag, which rubs the surface, cleaning off the remnants of the mixture. The problem can only arise with cleaning the surfaces of corrugated, textured or matte tiles. And here special cleaners will help, which can usually be found in the same stores where the grout is purchased.

You can choose expensive exquisite tiles, the best adhesive mixtures, lay tiles on the walls quickly and efficiently, but if you do the finishing wrong, all the work will go down the drain.

The end result often depends on final touches, therefore, do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom is a responsible and scrupulous stage. Thanks to skillful technique, it is possible to create a stable structure with amazingly correct geometry and impeccable appearance.

The purpose of the solution for filling tile joints is clear: it protects the walls (or floor), as well as the adhesive composition from moisture and mechanical damage. The correct grouting process turns individual fragments (tiles, borders, decor) into a complete coating, making bathroom walls aesthetically attractive.

There is a so-called seamless tile, which completely lacks a side chamfer. Perfectly even edges imply tight laying, without the use of seams and, accordingly, grouting materials.

However, most often it is a collection of author's tiles or porcelain tiles, which are very expensive and require professionalism during installation, therefore, for facing bathrooms in typical city apartments and country cottages using regular tiles.

Talented Polish designer Maciej Zien is the author of many collections of seamless ceramic tiles, one of which, Piccadilly London, is built on the contrast of colors, shapes and textures

What kind of grout will lie flat, last longer and do not require quick repairs? quality material must have the following properties:

uniformity - do not contain clots and inclusions, so as not to create irregularities or air bubbles that provoke the destruction of the layer;
elasticity - well-bound particles of the solution help quick and easy application;
strength that occurs at the end of work and allows you to care for the seams without destroying them;
hydrophobicity repels moisture.

And of course, the grout must match color scheme of the selected tile - to be combined in shade or, on the contrary, to create an expressive contrast, which happens much less often.

The clear geometry of the joints, accentuated by contrasting grouting, and zoning with orange decorative tiles turn the bathroom into a beautiful modern space in which to spend time

Stages of grouting tile joints

It seems to many that grouting is very easy - it is worth applying the composition to the seams, removing the excess and that's it, the job is done. However, in the process of embedding, technical nuances often arise, on which the final result depends. Let's try to decompose finishing stage on the shelves and reveal the tricky and difficult moments of such a responsible process.

Step # 1 - prepare tools and materials

Plus self-finishing that you do not need to buy expensive tools and materials. Everything is relatively cheap and sold in building supermarkets. So, for work you will need:

a set of rubber spatulas for applying the grout and distributing it along the seams;
several buckets or special containers for mixing the solution;
construction knife and paint brush for cleaning tile joints;
several household sponges for wet cleaning;
protective accessories – mask and rubber gloves(for aggressive solutions).

Since the process will not last long, it is better to prepare tools and fixtures in advance.

It also requires a large amount clean water– this is not a problem for the bathroom if the water supply is not blocked due to construction work. From the materials you will need ready-made grout in jars or a dry mix for preparing a mortar, which is usually sold in small packages.

Spatulas for applying and deepening the grout differ from metal tool for wall plastering: they are made of elastic rubber, which is convenient to distribute the composition along the seam without damaging the integrity of the tile

Step # 2 - preparing the seams and mortar

After the glue has completely dried (the time may vary - from 8 hours to 2 days), you can prepare the work surface and dilute the dry mixture with water if you have not purchased a ready-made solution.

The gaps between adjacent tiles must be completely cleaned of adhesive residue with a knife, and then sweep out small fragments and dust with a paint brush. The cleaner the surface to be treated, the smoother the grout will lie and the stronger it will “adhere” to the edges of the tile and the wall.

Preparing seams for laying new tiles takes much less time than grouting old joints with cracked and darkened grout

Before grouting the seams on ceramic tiles, we will prepare the mortar. Take a clean container and pour it in warm water(20-25ºС), pour the dry mixture from the pack and mix thoroughly.

If there is no special mixer nozzle for a drill, a regular one will do. wooden stick. The main thing is that there are no lumps in the solution. After preparing the mixture, you should immediately begin the application process.

When preparing a grout, two important factors must be compared: application time and drying time. If you are working slowly, it is better to cook several small portions one at a time.

Step #3 - Applying the grout

At this stage, inexperienced home "tilers" make a small mistake: they begin to fill the seams between the tiles "dry". Professionals recommend moistening the seam with water before applying the composition to better adhesion. Water is applied with a paint brush, preferably a round one, big sponge or a spray bottle.

You can play it safe and use an antiseptic primer instead of water to prevent the appearance of fungus or mold.

If you decide to moisten the seam space with a primer, do not buy for this purpose special compound. The mortar that you used to prepare the walls for tiles is perfect.

When applying the solution, pay attention to the movements of the spatula - they should go perpendicular to the seam. The grout should be applied quickly, but gently, pressing in a little so that it fills the entire space of the seam.

You can draw the sharp end of the spatula along the application line and once again walk with transverse strokes.

So that there are no wastelands inside the tile joint, the strokes should be tightly superimposed one on top of the other, especially carefully - at the intersections of the lines

Step #4 - Dry and Wet Cleaning

Even with a very careful application of the composition, stains and traces remain on the edges of the tile. How to properly grout tiles, leaving a minimum of traces? Even in the process of processing the seams, you can remove the excess: after several transverse strokes, draw it along with a spatula, collecting the excess solution.

Then, even before the moment of complete drying, you should take a dry cloth or a damp sponge and carefully wipe off the remnants of the solution.

However, be careful: when pressing with a sponge, part of the grout can be squeezed out of the joint, so use only transverse movements.

The more accurate and accurate your movements will be in the process of applying the mortar, the less time you will spend for the subsequent cleaning of the tiles.

A damp sponge is preferable for another reason: by removing excess mortar, it smoothes the seams, makes them even and aesthetically attractive. During work, you should not be distracted, because the grout dries quickly, and it is quite difficult to remove it in a dried state.

Get ready for the fact that after the first cleaning you will have to wipe the entire tile several times with a damp cloth - traces of grout, especially gypsum, are very stable.

The nuances of working with floor tiles

The tile joints on the floor are filled in exactly the same way as on the walls, but there are several nuances that make the job easier. For example, there is a method that allows you to quickly process a floor with smooth tiles. Instead of an ordinary sponge, they take a manual construction grater with a rubber overlay and fill the seams at arm's length with wide, sweeping movements. The solution will lay down evenly and densely fill the voids if made more liquid.

The grater can also be effectively used for the next step - removing grout residues by attaching a porous foam sponge instead of a rubber pad

This method is not suitable if the texture of the tile is embossed, has protrusions or scars. The grout will fill in the depressions in the ceramic, and this is an additional labor-intensive cleaning job.

Having processed ceramic lining, do not forget to grout the seams around sockets, pipes, plumbing fixtures and towel warmer fixtures.

Once again about the types of grouting materials

On the shelves of building supermarkets you can find a lot of materials for filling tile joints. Domestic and foreign manufacturers offer products that are different in composition and consistency: dry mixes, ready-made solutions of medium viscosity, dense pastes. Consider how aggregates differ and which ones are better suited for self-grouting.

The basis for the most common type of dry mixes is cement - similar products can be found at every manufacturer. Some cement compositions contain sand, others are diluted with other fillers. Sand mixtures should be used if the width of the seams reaches 4 cm or more, that is, they are absolutely not suitable for bathrooms. Cement-sand mortars use when exterior finish facades, device garden paths, construction work in the courtyard.

Cement grout can be prepared independently, using cement and fine sand, taken in equal proportions, as a base, and some latex additives - for elasticity

For grouting tile joints in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens, Portland cement mixed with lime is used. The fine grinding of the components guarantees an even, uniform layer upon application. Polymer-cement mortars are not diluted with water, but with a latex-based composition. There are two types of mixtures: colored and light, designed to be mixed with a coloring pigment during preparation.

The second type of solutions is prepared on the basis of resins. Even professionals rarely work with epoxy, which consists of two components and is prepared immediately before application. A thick mass must be applied quickly and very carefully. Hardening, the grouting material becomes equal in strength to ceramic tiles and lasts at least 50 years.

Epoxy mixtures are used for joints wider than 6 mm, but they are sometimes used for finishing bathrooms. Designers add gold or silver powder to the powder and get a luxurious frame for ceramic tiles.

Epoxy grout, bright, with the addition of metallic powder, looks flawless and presentable only when the edges of the tile or mosaic are perfectly even

The most resistant material is considered to be a filler made on the basis of furan resin. It is as expensive as epoxy, and has another feature - it is exclusively black. Despite the high performance and exceptional wear resistance, furanol is rarely used.

Sometimes, to process joints, difficult areas or places where tiles adjoin a sink (bath), silicone filler is used - a sealant. It is sold in plastic syringe tubes and squeezed directly into the seam with a construction gun.

The sealant has elasticity, antiseptic properties, but over time it can change its shade: white or transparent material turns yellow from exposure to water and light.

Especially for glass mosaics and ceramic tiles, water-dispersed water-repellent polyurethane grouts are produced by the well-known Italian company Litocol.

The most convenient filler for beginner tilers is polyurethane grout, which is already sold in ready-made in buckets of various sizes. It is universal, that is, it is suitable for sealing joints when laying both tiles and mosaics. The width of the seam can be different - from 1 mm to 5 mm.

The polyurethane composition of the mixture is easy to apply, hardens quickly and does not pose problems during further care.

What should be the optimal width of the seams?

The appearance of a tile depends not only on the color or texture, but also on the width of the joints that surround each element from all sides and affect the visual perception. The opinion that wide seams suppress tiles is erroneous.

On the contrary, too narrow seams interfere with full visual perception, and besides, they are dangerous from a functional point of view: grout hardly gets into them, so it is difficult to judge their integrity and tightness.

When calculating the width of the tile joints, consider two important factors: the ease of application of the mortar and the preservation of such grout properties as water resistance and strength

The disadvantage of too wide seams is their low resistance external factors. The grout cracks, crumbles and requires constant updating. For this reason, sand is added to cement mixtures for wide joints. The average size of the sides of a bathroom tile is from 10 to 33 cm, a suitable joint width is 3-4 mm.

How to prevent cracking?

More likely to crack cement grout. There are several reasons for rapid destruction: too liquid consistency of the solution, unstable wooden base, exposure to hot water, or the wrong ratio of components. If repairs are not made in time, water will regularly fall under the tiles, which threatens to cause mold.

You can embroider and clean the seams, fill them with mortar again, but where is the guarantee that this will last?

Sometimes even in the process of applying the mass, cracks begin to appear. This means that the prepared solution is not thick enough, and to correct the situation, it is necessary to rub dry powder directly into the cracks formed.

It is better to prevent cracking by listening to the advice of experts. It is necessary that the solution is homogeneous, of medium viscosity, and the seam is well cleaned and wide enough. With self-dilution of the mixture, it is necessary that after mixing it stand for 5-6 minutes, and then mix it again. It is not recommended to ventilate the room during drying or use hot water inside it.

And finally, the main advice: follow the instructions on the package. There you can find information about correct application mortar, joint width and drying time.

Some forty years ago, no one knew such a word as grout. The last squeak in the form of Greek or Polish tiles still had to be managed to get, and it was not always possible to buy a tile of the same color. It was glued (it was glued, not laid) on the walls and floor in all conceivable and inconceivable ways. And what was not added to adhesive mixture so that she stays in the chosen place! They glued without seams, so no one needed grout.

But time and technology run forward, overtaking all ideas of beauty and practicality.

Peculiarities

Today, without grout, it is simply impossible to imagine a well-laid tile. Laying technology facing tiles nowadays it means that seams are made between decorative elements. Seams are called unfilled tile adhesive indent between the ends of two adjacent tiles. You need to know how to properly grout the seams on the tiles.

Intertile seams have a purely utilitarian purpose:

They create a thermal gap. Everyone knows from the course of physics that bodies expand when heated. With very narrow joints or with no joints at all, ceramic tiles can crack in any direction, squeezing one another out.
Tile different manufacturers calibrated differently. Tile calibration is a tolerance for size deviation finished product from the dimensions declared by the manufacturer. Sometimes the calibration can go up to 1 mm. When laying such unevenly sized tiles without seams or with narrow seams, it is impossible to get a more or less decent wall.

In order for the final result to have clear horizontals and verticals, a poorly calibrated tile must be shifted, centered, changing the size of the seam for each adjacent pair.

In order to avoid gaps between the laid elements of wall and floor decoration, into which water and dirt will enter, the seams are filled with a special solution called grout. Ceramic tiles, for the most part, have a slight rounding at the edges due to the peculiarities of its manufacturing technology.

Glaze covering ceramics is applied to only one surface. Therefore, the ends of the tile have the color of the clay from which it was made, and differ from the color of the pattern on the front side. When the seams are not worn, the brown edges are visible to the naked eye and spoil the whole picture.

A common mistake made by amateurs is that they believe that flaws in tiling and mechanical damage in the form of small chips can be hidden with grout. She, like paint, only emphasizes all the flaws. Therefore, it is better to replace a defective tile immediately or lay it in an inconspicuous place. e.g. for a bath or shower.

The composition and basis of the grout from different manufacturers are different. Some add special antifungal additives, others - hardening components, others try to give the grout more elasticity, and others - water-repellent properties.

The more such consumer properties at the grout mixture, the more expensive it is.

Kinds

The basis for the most commonly used grouts is usually gypsum or cement, the resulting joint is opaque, uniform in composition and color. To give a lined tiled surface aesthetic appearance the grout is tinted (coloring pigments are added) in various colors. But in special cases with such a composition it is impossible to achieve the desired result.

To get a transparent or translucent seam, use compositions based on epoxy resin, which can be tinted in different colors or add different fillers. Fillers can also be finely ground powder of silver or gold color and small beads, as well as small holographic sparkles, as for decorating nails.

The strength of such a grout will be no less than that of the tile itself, and dirt will not eat into the seams.

Another type of grout is based on the use of furan resin. Its feature is an exceptionally deep black color. In grouts based on gypsum or cement, the most dark color- anthracite, black with a gray tint. This is due to the characteristics of the base materials, which no one has yet been able to tint daughter.

Today, as a grout in places of increased load and humidity, they increasingly began to use painted in different colors silicone sealants.

The classic grouting material was and remains tile adhesive for clinker. The seam is strong, its width does not matter, the color is only gray.

The grout is sold in any building supermarket both in a ready-to-use form and as a mixture for preparing a mortar for clinker tiles. This is an equal replacement.

How to breed?

Those who make repairs with their own hands should memorize the rule for preparing solutions from dry mixtures: the mixture is added to water, not water to the mixture. But grouts are an exception to this rule. Since the features of their composition are such that they take little water, water is added to the dry powder to obtain a solution of the desired consistency.

Water used to prepare any mortar, in no case should it be warm or hot, otherwise the mixture will immediately turn into a frozen, shapeless lump, with which nothing can be done. First of all, you need to correctly calculate the proportions.

Manufacturers, as a rule, indicate on the packaging the recommended amount of water per 100 g or per 1 kg of dry mix. But this figure is not mandatory. The density of the solution depends on the result that you want to get in the end. For the standard grouting method, the solution should be like thick homemade sour cream or tomato paste. If during mixing part of the mixture remains dry, add water in very small portions until the solution reaches the desired density.

If, on the contrary, the mixture turned out to be very liquid, similar to kefir, you can gradually add dry grout, again in small portions. And mix well so that there are no lumps.

Some additives make grout mixtures very non-hygroscopic, and the particles of the mixture do not want to get wet. It is necessary to knead such compositions carefully and for quite a long time until a thick homogeneous mass is obtained.

The viability of the diluted grout is small, on the strength of half an hour or an hour. After this time, the solution begins to harden, clot, lose plasticity, and it is no longer possible to work with it. Therefore, it is most preferable to dilute the grout in small portions. If during the work the composition began to thicken, you can add a small amount of water to it and stir well.

If you cook a lot of grout, then it is very difficult to work it all out without losing quality. Preparing a large amount of the mixture at once is logical only if several people work on grouting at once, each of which performs a certain stage.

The most suitable container for diluting the grout is a rubber or flexible polymer cup with a volume of 300 to 500 ml. Flexibility is due to the fact that when the mixture hardens, it becomes very hard and it is almost impossible to scrape it off hard dishes. When twisting a soft cup, the frozen grout “snaps off” from the walls and is knocked out with a slight tap. If you try to knock on a hard container, then the cup is more likely to crack than the grout will fall behind the walls.

In the case of using a ready-made grout mixture, the manufacturer did everything for us. It can be used by taking it straight out of the bucket. Just remember to close the lid tightly so that the unused grout does not dry out. After 12-24 hours outdoors ready mix first covered with a film, and then turns into a solid, unsuitable for grouting substance.

Instruments

Before you start grouting the seams, you need to prepare a bucket of clean cool water, latex or vinyl gloves and a few dense sponges (like for washing dishes) with fine pores, as well as two hygroscopic cloth napkins. For the convenience of work, a stepladder is needed. Directly to fill the joints with grout, you need a flexible polyurethane spatula 5-10 cm wide and a container with a ready-made solution.

If grouting skills are not developed, it is better to take a small tool. It's also a good idea to have a paint knife on hand for partial correction of the seam. To form an aesthetic seam, you need a round ebonite stick of small diameter - 3-5 mm.

In special cases, masking tape with good adhesion may be needed. You can choose a device such as a special machine for filling seams. This will greatly simplify your work and you will complete it faster.

How to apply?

Be sure to use gloves, so you will seal the seams without fear for the condition of your hands. The composition of the grout is quite aggressive. Without hand protection, you risk contact dermatitis.

In order for the seams to turn out neat, without extraneous inclusions and color deviations due to the tile adhesive not removed from the ends, they must be cleaned before starting work. Experienced craftsmen wash the seams with a richly wetted sponge directly in the process of laying tiles. They do this because it is much more difficult to renew dried tile adhesive. But if it so happened that the dried glue still remained in the seams, it can be cleaned with a small spatula or a paint knife. This operation must be carried out carefully, as mechanical action can damage the glaze of the ceramic product. You will get chips that are very difficult to repair.

After cleaning the seams, it is preferable to rinse them with a damp sponge and joint.

It is necessary to cover the seams as quickly as possible, apply the solution with confident movements and close up all the chips. You can also darken the seam or recolor it. You can change the color by adding special paints.

There are several ways to get beautiful and even seams using grout.

Based on gypsum or cement

In any case, it is possible to rub the seams only after the tile adhesive has lost its mobility and the tile has clearly fixed in place. For floors, this moment is determined by the time when it will be possible to walk on the tile without pushing through the tile with the weight of one's own body.

The composition is applied to a clean seam in a direction transverse to it with little effort, with continuous strokes along its entire length. The remains of the grout are removed from the tile with the same spatula, running it along the seam. The seam becomes even. Excess grout is sent back to the container with the finished composition. Visually, you can immediately assess the full filling of the seam with grout. If somewhere there is a gap (hole) or an insufficient amount grouting, it is desirable to correct these defects without waiting for the seam to harden. In the same way, fill the seams on the entire wall. Then they return to the place from which they started, and already clean the grout.

Cleaning the grout with this method of applying it, aims to make all the seams equally even and smooth. This operation is done with a round ebonite stick. If there is no such tool, then you can use a round pencil or an oval lighter. Passing a stick along the seam with a little pressure on the grout that has begun to harden, remove all excess from the seam and form its slightly concave smooth surface. The seams are slightly recessed, even along the entire length.

After the formation of the seam, the tile is wiped first with a slightly damp, and then with a dry cloth. The formation process is very important here. beautiful seam start before the moment when the grout begins to gain strength.

In another case, the composition is applied in the same way, only the seam is formed immediately with a damp sponge or finger, swiping with a sufficiently damp sponge with a little pressure. With this method, you will not have to return to an already worn area. In addition, the tile is washed directly during the grouting process. After drying, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a dry cloth.

The finished composition is placed in a trowel bag with a nozzle of the size required for the seam. Fill first either vertical or horizontal seams. When squeezing the mixture, you need to carefully monitor that it fills the seam completely, without gaps. Since any mixtures diluted with water have the property of shrinkage, that is, a decrease in volume upon drying and evaporation of moisture from them, it is necessary to apply grout in a slightly larger amount than it seems directly at the moment of mashing the seam.

sealant

Sealants are produced in tubes and cylinders for special pistols. For mashing seams, the second option is used. The sealed tip of the balloon is cut off with a sharp knife, after which the cone nozzle, which comes with the sealant, is screwed onto it. The cylinder is inserted into the gun, the tip of the cone nozzle is cut off so as to obtain the required seam width. The sealant is squeezed out exactly into the seam. Leveling it can be done with a wet finger or sponge. From the surface of the tile, excess sealant should be immediately washed off with a damp sponge and wiped dry with a cloth.

Resin based

The composition usually has a two-component structure, consisting of the resin itself and the hardener. To obtain a more homogeneous mass without air bubbles, the resin must be heated in a water bath to a temperature of about 50-60 degrees before mixing. Add hardener, tinting paste if required, and filler of choice according to the design. The mixture should be applied directly to the seam. You can use a piping bag with a nozzle or buy a special trowel bag. Align the seams most conveniently with a flexible plastic spatula.

If the grout gets on the surface of the tile, immediately wipe the soiled area dry, then rinse with a damp sponge and wipe dry again.

When grouting joints on tiles that do not have a smooth, but a relief surface, the mixture from the front surface of the tile should be immediately washed out with plenty of water. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to bring it into a decent form. The grout that has eaten into small depressions of the relief is very poorly cleaned during hardening. You can mess up the whole job.

If the tile "does not fit", then the seams are obtained different widths one row - vertical or horizontal. In this case, after the standard filling of the seams, you can use the following trick: on a dry and clean tile along the entire length of the seam that needs to be adjusted, masking tape is glued on both sides. The width of the seam is chosen based on the widest. The grout is diluted a little more liquid than for filling joints.

The mixture is carefully applied to the formed seam, immediately smoothing it and eliminating defects. The adhesive tape is removed without waiting for the mixture to solidify. Otherwise, the grout will begin to crumble along the edges of the seam and the edge of the seam will become jagged instead of straight. Masking tape can also be used when grouting tiles with small relief to protect the edge of the front surface from getting grout on it. In this case, you do not have to spend a lot of time washing. The same applies to finishing materials with a porous structure. Here you simply cannot do without adhesive tape.

After grouting all vertical and horizontal joints, do not forget to fill with the mixture all technological cutouts on the tile near the heated towel rail, outlets for hot and cold water, taps to connect washing machine etc.

When filling joints on tiles with straight (unsmoothed) ends, the joints must be made without deepening. That is, the seam and the front surface of the tile must form a single surface. Otherwise side surface Brown color will be visible from under the grout and spoil the whole impression.

Hello dear readers!

I dedicate today's post, in my opinion, to an absolutely wonderful activity - grouting tiles! And why are you laughing, this monotonous monotonous work has a relaxing, calming and, I would say, relaxing effect on a person. At least for me.

I agree that this is individual for each person, for example, one of my friends loves to peel small potatoes, it calms her down, but it irritates me terribly! But my husband always entrusted me with such jewelry repair work as grouting tiles.

Women, as a rule, are more pedantic, more corrosive or something, and are able to produce an equally good result of the work done for a long time. And this is just what you need for high-quality grouting. In addition, women have an almost innate vision of beauty. This quality also plays into the hands in this matter. Why? Then you will understand it.

Any work, and this one is no exception, should be started with positive thoughts in your head and a mindset only for a positive result. But at the same time, do not forget that difficulties can arise at any moment and you need to be ready to cope with them.
So, all work will consist of several stages:

1. Materials and tools for grouting.

1. Brush with soft bristles.
2. Screwdriver or any other object with a sharp and hard end, so that they can clean out the remnants of hardened glue or mortar.
3. Soft sponge or cloth.
4. Rubber spatula.
5. Whisk for stirring or nozzle (for mixing large volumes).
6. Dry mix (grout).
7. Water 5-20 ˚С.
8. Capacity for kneading.

As for the question of which grout to choose, I, for example, use Ceresit grout in my work, because. it is today considered one of the most environmentally friendly building mixtures.

IN required amount water at a temperature of 5-20 ° C, add the required amount of the dry mixture, and stir properly. It is in the water that you add the dry mix, and not vice versa.

When stirring, it is convenient for me to use an ordinary whisk for whipping, it has a shape like that of a mixing nozzle for a blender. Of course, this method is suitable if you knead a small amount of the mixture for working alone.

If the batch is half a bucket, for several people, a room of twenty square meters will have to be overwritten. meters, you won’t get off with a whisk. In this case, it is better to use a special nozzle, we used it to knead the mixture when working on.

After mixing well, breaking all the lumps, leave for 5 minutes. After this time, stir again and proceed. The consistency of the grout should be like that of thick sour cream, it should not flow out of the seams, but it should not roll and crumble from the density.

If this happens, do not waste your nerves and do not spoil your mood, it is better to immediately correct the mixture, add a little water or vice versa dry powder.

It is better to use a round or oval form for diluting the grout, such as a plastic paint bucket. Everything is well mixed in it and dry powder does not clog in the corners, as it could happen in a square container.

If you are doing this for the first time, do not mix all the grout at once. Start with 0.5 kg or even less. At this volume, you will have 30 minutes to practice before the mixture starts to dry.

Right to left or left to right?

From which side you start horizontally, right to left or left to right, it does not matter. But vertically it is better to start from the top. It’s just more convenient, it’s been tested on our own experience, if something drips from a spatula onto the wall, it won’t spoil the already finished seam.

In order not to get lost in the entire volume of empty seams that need to be overwritten: visually define blocks for yourself, for example, 4 by 4 tiles and work with them one after another.

4. How to grout the seams on the tiles.

We take a little grout on a rubber spatula and carefully begin to apply it to the seams between the tiles with pressing movements.

Periodically remove the excess mixture that has fallen on the tile around the seam, while placing the spatula perpendicular to the seam. Thus, not only the excess is removed, but also leveled. upper layer grout flush with the tile surface.

In principle, the story of how to grout the seams on the tiles could not be continued. When the mixture dries (after 30 minutes), wipe the tile with a wet cloth to remove the dried grout from the tile itself and that's it.

But, in my opinion, everything will look much prettier if the seams between the tiles are designed in the form of a groove. This will give the wall relief, and highlight each tile. This is very simple to do, after you have applied the grout flush with the tile, take a rubber spatula and walk along the seam with its corner, cleaning out the excess mixture.

After this operation, the seams between the tiles look a little sloppy and somewhere even rough. To fix this, I took an ordinary foam rubber sponge, moistened it a little in water and, with a slightly pressing motion, ran it along the seam. This can be seen in the photo. After that, the seam becomes even and smooth.

When the seams are dry, you can take a not very wet sponge or cloth and gently wash the tile itself.

By the way, in the photographs in the article "" the results of my work on grouting joints between tiles.

Now on the market there is a grout of various manufacturers, and most importantly of different colors. Therefore, it will not be difficult to choose it to match the tone of the tile.

And you can also experiment and make a contrasting option where the tile is white and the grout, for example, is burgundy. Of course, such a solution must be in harmony with overall design rooms and furniture. This is to the issue of the vision of beauty mentioned above.

In any case, I wish you success in your work and an excellent result, which you will be satisfied with!
I hope that the article on how to grout the seams on the tiles was useful to you.

In conclusion, I propose to watch a short video clip “How do-it-yourself tile grouting is done”:

Of course, it is an excellent and practical floor covering. It is especially good in rooms exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Fortunately, on the construction market you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of imitating almost any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only if it can be correctly and accurately laid. And an important role in this procedure is played by the final stage - grouting the tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that the visual effect produced by the coating will depend.

How do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it right and why do you need to do it at all? We will answer all these questions in our review.

What are seams and why overwrite them

During the master, special crosses are laid between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed so that, firstly, the facing material in the end looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, styling is not always carried out on solid foundation, sometimes there is a floor under the tile, which can undergo shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these small distances, then ceramic coating can simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab occurring under it. However, if the joints are left unfilled, then over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And so that such problems do not arise, the seam between the tiles is filled with special mixtures - grouts.

What are grouts

Before looking for information on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this very grout. Professionals also call it a fugue. The fact is that not every material presented in stores is suitable for a particular room. All grout compositions are divided into types. There are quite a few of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are fugues made on the basis of cement, made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined, which are called epoxy-cement.

The former belong to the category of the simplest and are suitable for use only in those rooms in which there is practically no humidity. If we take into account the fact that it is almost impossible not to wash the floors, then this option can not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with a cement fugue is undesirable.

Epoxy grouts are the highest quality and are suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one significant drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling joints with a width of at least four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. That's why home master it is recommended to pay attention to the intermediate option, which is ideal for flooring not only in the living areas of apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, a cement-epoxy fugue is considered a universal option for the home, since it can be used to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor in almost any room.

How to choose "your" grout

First of all, you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there the optimal width of the seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own dimensions. There are also universal grouts. They can be used on flooring, the width of the joints of which is from two to twenty-two millimeters.

Then, having chosen the desired composition, pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in a large assortment, but you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that contrasting grout can only be used if you are sure that your tile is laid perfectly. Usually, the best option is to choose a tone that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as him.

Process steps

Before grouting the seams on the tiles on the floor, you must first wait a day after. This time can just be spent on buying a fugue and the necessary tools. The process of grouting itself consists of several stages. These are: preparation of the base, dilution of the grout (unless, of course, you purchased it ready-made, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying the mortar to the seams, removing excess and final cleaning.

What will the master need to have for the grouting procedure

Special equipment and tools are not required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the trowel itself must already be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold already ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in every way, since it is much easier to rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the desired consistency. To achieve the latter is not quite a skillful master, who carries out this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading, it is quite difficult the first time.

However, such a fugue also has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, in addition to the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remains of an expensive mixture, most likely, will have to be thrown away. So experts recommend that novice craftsmen still purchase dry grouts. And since such a thing, it is required to have on hand in this case also a container for breeding. You will also need a trowel, a special spatula (rubber), a foam sponge and clean rags, a bucket of water, gloves and an abrasive grater.

Training

The tiled floor must be carefully cleaned of tile adhesive, if any, as well as dirt and dust. It also does not hurt to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush along the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them with plenty of water. After that, you can start breeding grout.

How to breed fugu

First, experts recommend carefully reading the instructions. Despite the fact that the grout dilution procedure is, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. Therefore, do not be lazy and carefully study what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the rate indicated on the package and pour the puffer into it. Mix everything carefully. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can start working. It is necessary to grout only with gloves, since the mixture is quite capable of corroding the skin of the hands with prolonged contact.

Advice from experts! Since the novice master does not yet have the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is better not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first, and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for kneading, it must also be divided by half.

We rub the seams on the floor

The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since you will not have to work immediately on the entire territory, but to process the tiles literally square meter, experts recommend immediately before the process itself, once again moisten a couple of "squares" with water. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m in twenty minutes. A novice master will not be able to achieve such a speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here is accuracy and careful observance of technology. Well, the fact that you finish the work an hour or two later does not really matter.

So, how to properly grout tiles? Apply a puffer to the rubber spatula and begin to fill the seams with diagonal movements. And do not just smear on top, but try to press the composition, as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled joint coincides in level with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any recesses or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grout the tiles on the floor in stages, work this way for about half an hour. After that, proceed to cleaning the jointed area.

To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, go through the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove excess from the tile itself and the seams. If stains remain on the tile - this is not a problem. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on ceramics. It won't be easy to remove it later. After you have processed one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are worn.

Finishing

After a day, you can begin to correct. It may well be that in some places the seams are not uniform enough. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend in this case to take either a grater and go through all the seams with them, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, you need to remove it with a vacuum cleaner, and then again take up wet cleaning. That is, rinse thoroughly. foam sponge seams and tiles, periodically changing dirty water. After the floor dries, stains may remain on it. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but simply carefully wipe it with a dry rag. On this, the procedure can be considered completed.

How to grout tiles in the bathroom on the floor

Just like in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - covering the joints with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and even on the walls, turn black from mold. And to prevent this from happening, buy a special sealant. It represents a liquid. It should be applied three days after grouting (you need to let the fugue dry). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently coat the seams with it.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible in detail about how to overwrite the tiles on the floor. And at the same time shared secrets experienced craftsmen and provided expert advice. We hope that now you will not have any difficulties with grouting tile joints.