The author expresses his gratitude and gratitude to the rector of the parish of Blessed Simon Yuryevets in Lyubimovka, Makaryevsky district, Kostroma region, Priest Mikhail (Mityushev) for the technical and informational support provided.

Introduction

From time immemorial, a stove in Russia has played a huge role in the life of every family. With its help, in the autumn-winter time, people dried and warmed their homes. The oven was used for cooking, baking bread and various pies, as well as for drying grain, mushrooms, fruits and berries. She not only warmed and fed, but also healed. The stove, no worse than a bath, cured colds, and the medicinal herbs and roots dried on it strengthened health better than modern vitamin complexes.

And today the stove has not lost its significance. However, along with pleasant moments, it sometimes delivers a lot of trouble. In some cases, troubles are caused by unsuccessful masonry, non-compliance with stove laws. In others, the point is not the unprofessionalism of the stove-maker, but the wrong choice of the type of stove by the owner of the house. Thirdly, in the inability to properly heat it.

Not all problems can be fixed, but many can be prevented! That is what this book is written for. In it you will practically not find common places that are present in a variety of literature on furnace business. In this manual, an attempt is made to draw the attention of readers to those points that play a paramount role in the arrangement of the furnace. Here those furnace secrets are revealed, which could not be read anywhere before.

The construction of the furnace involves capital costs - both financial and time. Therefore, the experiments of "homemade" can be very expensive in every sense of the word. This book outlines the principles for creating economical household stoves, built on knowledge of materials, technologies and the laws of stove business.

We will talk in it about the psychology of the customer and the stove-maker. It's no secret that sometimes distrust of the master leads to the most unfortunate consequences - the firewood from the owner who insisted on his master simply fly out into the chimney! But if he had listened to the words of a professional, the stove would have given him double fuel economy.

So the success of the stove business largely depends on the relationship between the homeowner and the stove maker. But how not to make a mistake and not trust someone who really doesn’t understand anything about ovens? We will also talk about this in the pages of this book.

All about ovens. Secrets of the Master" - a book for the homeowner, novice stove-maker and professional stove-maker. Accordingly, it is divided into three parts (the author asks in advance to excuse him for forced repetitions). In each of them, an attentive reader will find a lot of interesting and useful things for himself - without science and abstruseness, the author will share his many years of experience in creating economical stoves.

Part 1
Homeowner's Quick Reference Guide

Chapter 1
How to properly prepare clay, sand and brick

Procurement of the main building materials is an important stage in the creation of the furnace.

Let's dwell on this in a little more detail.

Clay

It is most convenient to pack fresh clay from the soil in bags (standard 40 kg flour bags) by no more than one third or half. So it will be more convenient to carry it, load and store it. In addition, the vehicle will remain clean and undamaged.

In areas adjacent to the territories of former garages, gas stations and fuel depots, it is absolutely impossible to take clay. When heated, the smell of fuel and lubricants, which is faintly felt in the raw clay, will give such an unbearable waste that the furnace will inevitably have to be shifted again.

It is undesirable to take clay with impurities of the earth, as well as one that lies in thin, heterogeneous layers.

Clay that is close to low river banks and in the water itself usually has a lot of organic matter. It is also not suitable for oven business.

The volume of harvested clay depends on the thickness of the furnace seam and on the properties of the rock itself. But if we rely on the most common medium-fat clay in central Russia, then, taking into account a certain margin, about two buckets of clay should be harvested for every hundred bricks in the masonry.

Sand

River (coastal and even more so bottom) sand is absolutely impossible to take either for kiln masonry or for cement work. Among builders and stove-makers, river sand has gained the most notoriety - so it's better not to tempt fate! The abundance of organic substances will negate the strength of even the highest quality cement, and the furnace mortar will not have sufficient strength.

It is possible to use fine sand with a high percentage of dust impurities in the oven masonry (it is very common in the Volga region) only if there is no other choice. Such sand always significantly reduces the strength of the furnace joint.

Medium-grained (grain size no more than 1 mm) rock (mountain or ravine) sand without dust impurities and foreign fractions is considered the best for furnace and cement work.

The volume of blanks for the furnace mortar: approximately 2.5–3 buckets per hundred bricks in the masonry.

Water

Pond, stagnant, technical water, with impurities of foreign odors (with the exception of hydrogen sulfide), as well as from puddles, should not be used in stove masonry.

Brick

It is almost impossible to buy a new red oven brick of good quality. Therefore, before purchasing bricks, it is imperative to get advice from the furnace master in order to know the exact percentage of brick rejection.

When purchasing ceramic new red brick, it should be borne in mind that its coefficient of thermal expansion may not be suitable for use at elevated temperatures. Under the hammer, such a brick will emit an ideally clear sound, indicating its good density and mechanical strength, but at the first serious temperature loads near the firebox (about 1 meter of the passage of thermal gases), the masonry can “break” (up to 0.5 cm) in oven seams. It will be almost impossible to get rid of this defect without a complete re-laying of a newly folded furnace.

It is possible to use a new ceramic red brick of modern production only on the condition that the lining, laying and calculation of the furnace will be carried out by an experienced furnace master.

In fact, strictly speaking, there is simply no non-ceramic red brick. Any red brick is always ceramic, because it was fired. But the trade lexicon has so developed that only high-quality red brick, which has very smooth and even almost glossy side surfaces, is called ceramic.

Used brick 1
Some books on stove business do not recommend the use of used bricks removed from masonry with lime mortar. This is argued by the fact that such a brick, when the furnace is heated, can emit harmful gas. But experience shows that stoves made of such bricks can be completely trouble-free. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the lime mortars on which the brickwork was made could have a different chemical composition in different places.

Before laying, it must be checked for rejection by an experienced stove-maker. It must first be thoroughly cleaned of old furnace mortar, soot, lime, paint and cement.

Chamotte brick, with all its undoubted advantages, has a significantly lower heat capacity than red. Therefore, if the oven is intended for baking bread (inside the firebox), then it is impossible to line (line) the firebox with fireclay bricks. Bread will not be baked in such an oven.

Chapter 2
How to choose the type of economical oven

The technical disadvantages of conventional ovens are described in sufficient detail in the literature. Dutch women (of course, there are rare exceptions), classic Russians, Russians with a fire and cooking and heating stoves with three, five and seven vertically located wells in one way or another have very serious drawbacks. Their detailed analysis would take a whole chapter, but even a short list can make any householder think about it.

1. The smallest area of ​​intense heat transfer (in this case, the predominant surface area of ​​​​the furnace, as it was, remains cold - at least swamp, at least not swamp).

2. Uneven heating (one part of the furnace is hot, and the other is warm or completely cold - because of this, cracks in the furnace seams will often and with inexorable constancy).

3. The problem with burning damp firewood.

4. Huge fuel consumption (it exceeds double and sometimes triple the average fuel consumption rate of an engineered stove every year) 2
The characteristic disadvantages of traditional ovens are discussed in more detail and in detail in Chapter 13.

Do not flatter yourself about most modern orders, modeled by computer graphics and printed in tens of thousands of copies. With the rarest exception, these are all the same technically ill-conceived furnaces of the century before last, a conscientious analysis of the shortcomings of which we find in the “Practical Guide” by V. A. Stroganov, published in 1899! Surprisingly, this detailed scientifically based critique of most of the shortcomings of traditional stoves (relevant today) has not found its publisher.

How can a householder who is inexperienced in all these technical and historical subtleties be?

1. Fold one of the bell-type stoves by I. S. Podgorodnikov that has passed the test of time (saving firewood by 2–3 times compared to the consumption of a classic Russian stove).

2. Create some external similarity to a traditional oven with non-traditional “stuffing” (see recommendations in chapters 20, 21 and 29 of this book).

3. Install a boiler with water heating in your house, with the traditionally high efficiency of which (if, of course, the volumes and location of the heat batteries are correctly calculated), the technical requirements for the furnace itself will no longer be of decisive importance, as in direct heating furnaces.

If it is necessary to heat a room with an area of ​​​​more than 50 m 2, it would be worth thinking about installing water heating. Otherwise, when cold weather sets in, several direct heating stoves will have to be heated daily, which, of course, will be very economically unprofitable.

When choosing an economical type of stove, the homeowner is likely to encounter some purely psychological difficulties. Too many sad stories left in my memory! I would like to shed some light on this side of the issue.

If any master stove-maker promises you to lay a good, well, just a very good stove, the plan of which has matured in his own head, beware of frivolously agreeing to such experiments! Almost 100% you will receive an oven with the lowest technical performance. Require only a technically approved stove to be laid.

You can trust a "home-made" one only in one case: if he has folded stoves of a personal design in the homes of other customers that have proven themselves on the positive side.

In order to create economical ovens of our own design, we must take into account the relationship of more than a dozen laws. Passion for some oven idea, unfortunately, always leads to the saddest consequences. Want to win in one thing - and it will almost inevitably affect the other. One of the furnace laws will certainly not be taken into account. In furnace business, free experiment is less than anywhere else. If you take the trouble and thoroughly study the history of the furnace business, you can come to a surprising conclusion. All the mistakes of modern arrogant designers have long been described and handed over to the technical archive of history!

I ask you to take the following advice on faith without any study of this issue. If you want an economical oven with good technical performance, never, under any circumstances, narrow the following flue cross-sections:

a) before the exit of the smoke channels from the room - in one brick per plate (300 cm 2);

b) the inner diameter of the pipe outdoors - 16 cm 3
In many modern sources, smaller minimum transverse dimensions of smoke channels are given:
a) a brick floor on a die (150 cm 2);
b) pipe diameter - 12–13 cm.
Further, I will reasonably prove that it is simply impossible to build an economical furnace on such cross sections of smoke channels!

Chapter 3
How to properly heat a household stove

The described method of economical firebox applies only to batch stoves using dry or damp firewood. The firebox of a permanent furnace, "potbelly stove", as well as the firebox of stoves with coal, peat, etc. will differ significantly from this one. To avoid information overload, our methodology has been somewhat simplified.

Before you start heating your home stove economically in practice, you need to understand how this factor will affect your personal economy. A properly folded and competently heated household stove can provide two- and sometimes three-fold (annual) savings in financial fuel costs. Only the right air intake into the furnace of a technically well-thought-out furnace can increase the efficiency from 40 to 80%! 4
Complete combustion of the fuel is ensured, firstly, by the high combustion temperature of the fuel. Secondly, sufficient, but not excessive air flow into the furnace furnace. Thirdly, the relatively small size of the furnace.

In order to correctly (more precisely, economically) heat a household stove, it is necessary to represent at least in a simplified form:

a) furnace stages;

b) physical and chemical processes occurring inside the furnace and furnace chimneys;

c) methods of competent regulation of processes inside the furnace at each stage of rendering.

The first stage - from the beginning of the ignition of the fuel to the entry of the furnace into an enhanced combustion mode - we will conditionally call the heating of the furnace.

The second stage is active combustion.

The third stage is the burning out of unburned fuel residues in the furnace.

Heating up the oven lasts from 5 to 30 or more (which is undesirable) minutes. A dry picket fence can go into an intense burning phase even after 2 minutes, and sometimes an hour is not enough for raw firewood.

At the heating stage of the furnace, excess air entering the furnace has almost no effect on the cooling of the chimneys for the simple reason that the temperature inside the chimneys is still not much different from room temperature. The chimneys are not warmed up yet - there is nothing to cool. Therefore, the first stage of combustion does not require special care and art. The main thing is to properly lay the firewood (a very important point: they should fill the furnace as much as possible, but not exceed 30 cm in layer height). Then it is necessary to almost completely open the general thrust valve and give such an influx of air with the blower door so that the flame does not “break off” at the first stage. The sooner the stove enters the active combustion phase, the better!

In the active combustion phase fuel combustion processes significantly change not only their intensity, but also their shape. At this stage, excess oxygen entering the furnace is less dangerous than its lack. I will briefly explain why.

When the phase of active combustion begins, the biochemical bonds in the combustible fuel begin to decompose so intensively that a very significant part of the combustible substances (in the form of gases and volatile tar that did not have time to complete the process of complete chemical decomposition) moves inside the furnace chimneys and can complete the combustion process only there. What will happen if, at the stage of active combustion, under the pretext “so that the heat does not fly into the chimney”, we restrict the access of oxygen to the furnace furnace? And the worst will happen.

1. The gases and gaseous tarry substances that have flown into the chimneys of the furnace simply do not have enough oxygen to complete the process of complete chemical decomposition. In the form of moss-like soot and resinous "scale", they will begin to actively settle on the inner walls of the smoke channels 5
The underburning of chemical products leads to the formation of soot.

2. Constantly repeating processes of active formation of tarry substances and soot on the inner walls of the smoke channels will lead to a gradual narrowing of their cross section. This, little by little, will inevitably weaken the overall draft and significantly degrade the overall performance of the furnace.

3. A gradually growing layer of tar and soot inside the smoke channels will play the role of an effective heat-insulating layer. The heat flows passing inside the furnace will begin to fly out into the chimney much more willingly than to transfer their heat to the inner walls of the chimneys, and from them to the heated room 6
A soot thickness of 1-2 mm already significantly impairs the perception of heat by the inner walls of the furnace.

4. On one sad day, resinous substances and soot accumulated in the furnace can go into an active combustion phase inside the chimney channels. This phenomenon is not frequent, but the risk of a fire in the house at this time becomes extremely high! Anyone who has ever seen it with their own eyes will immediately understand what is at stake.

The stove itself (and, if any, a tin pipe) begins to heat up quickly and strongly. It becomes as impossible to put out the fire raging in it as to extinguish a burning peat bog. The ignited tar and soot only respond to the completely closed dampers of the draft and blower of the furnace with an incredible stench and a slight weakening of the combustion processes. However, it is impossible to completely stop the burning of tar and soot inside the smoke channels.

From what has been said, it follows that the valve of the total draft of the furnace at the entire stage of active combustion must be opened almost completely, and the blower door must not be covered too tightly. And the sooner the stove goes to the last phase of combustion, the better!

Those who have the time and desire to acquire the ability to accurately determine the amount of oxygen entering the furnace furnace can use the following recommendations. Pay attention to the color of the flame:

a) a dark yellow flame and filling the furnace with black smoke means that there is little oxygen, it is necessary to increase the draft in the furnace;

b) light yellow flame - fuel combustion processes are proceeding normally;

c) a bright white flame (more common at the end of the active combustion phase) indicates that the thrust must be reduced until light yellow tongues appear.

V. A. Stroganov gives the following gradation: the initial combustion temperature is 500 ° C, the red color of the flame is 525 ° C, cherry - 800 ° C, light cherry - 1000 ° C, light orange - 1200 ° C, almost white - 1300°C.

Consider the stage of fuel afterburning. Astute readers probably already understood: the sooner this (last) phase of combustion ends, the better. The way it is! The most effective way to save the heat accumulated in the stove (very rarely used) is to collect the unburned coals on a scoop and take them to a specially equipped fireproof place. Immediately after this, it is necessary to completely close the damper of the general draft in the furnace. I will briefly explain why.

The excess air entering during the heating of the furnace could not significantly cool the inner walls of the smoke channels (they had not yet been heated). During the active combustion phase, although this excess was undesirable, it was not of decisive importance, because the furnace continued to actively consume oxygen in the chemical combustion processes. But when the active process of fuel combustion begins to noticeably weaken, and the inner walls of the smoke channels have already warmed up to the maximum, even a slight excess of air entering the furnace furnace begins to significantly cool the furnace from the inside. It is at the fuel burnout phase that the greatest losses of heat accumulated by the furnace occur: now it, in the most direct sense of the word, begins to “fly out into the pipe”.

It is the afterburning phase of the fuel that requires special attention and skill - of course, if you have a desire to learn how to really economically heat your stove.

As soon as the firewood begins to no longer burn, namely to burn out, it is necessary to quickly limit the flow of air into the furnace. The less airflow, the better. General rule: if only there was no fumes in the room.

It is also desirable to limit the draft in the furnace not with a common draft valve, but with a blower door. The difference is that by closing the blower door of the furnace, we thereby achieve a significant increase in the speed of air movement on the grate, on which the burning coals lie. If we limit the draft of the furnace with a damper of general draft, and not with a blower door (what would seem to be the difference?), Then we weaken the draft, but on the grate the air velocity (with the blower door ajar) will be very insignificant. This means that the coals will burn on the grate more slowly.

Those who have had a long-term practice of baking bread in the firebox of a household oven know well: if you gape a little during the burning out of the coals and do not close the draft damper in the oven in time, the bread will be underbaked.

Chapter 4
Eight common causes of stove smoke

This chapter will help the owner to become an experienced stove master in his house. Anyone who reads it carefully will probably come to a simple conclusion: stove draft is, in general, not such a secret with seven seals, as it might seem at first. In fact, everything is much simpler! Relatively rare cases in which the stove smokes are discussed in chapter 18 of this book.

In order to clearly understand the reason why your stove smokes, you need to take a closer look at:

a) under what conditions does it occur;

b) gradually or immediately it began to smoke;

c) how long ago it started, etc.

Reason one

If the overall draft of the stove has always been good, but after it has not been heated for two days (or more), it suddenly blows all the smoke into the house, then the draft has turned over inside the chimneys of the stove and in its pipe. The general direction of the airflow changed, and instead of going from the house to the street, the smoke went from the street to the house. Thrust tipping over can occur both on a hot summer day and in twenty-degree frost.

Removing the cause: in a hurry, it is necessary to intensively heat the air inside the chimney. It can be done:

a) through the topmost (closest to the exit from the pipe) cleaning door from inside the room;

b) through a temporarily open hog in the attic;

c) if the above methods are not suitable, lit sheets of newspapers will have to be thrown into the outlet of the pipe - until the draft takes its normal direction.

Having recovered, the draft in the furnace immediately becomes normally active, and in the following days (if the furnace is heated regularly), such problems no longer occur. In the people, this phenomenon is referred to by the not quite technically correct term "air lock". In no case can one blame the master stove-maker who laid down the stove for this. Even the most well-thought-out furnace, under certain conditions, may be subject to overturning of the furnace draft.

Archaeologists attribute the appearance of the first stoves for heating a dwelling in Russia to the 9th-10th centuries. At the beginning of the XX century. such an ancient find was discovered in the form of untreated boulders folded into a kind of hearth, which were not held together by any solution.

Historians believe that in this form, a stove for heating a home and cooking existed until the beginning of the 15th century. A step forward in the development of the stove business was the “kurnaya”, that is, the stove, which was heated “blackly”. This means that even the semblance of a pipe for removing smoke did not exist, and it went outside through a hole in the ceiling.

Antonis Goeteeris, CC BY-SA 3.0

To arrange such stoves, no special art was required, most likely every owner in those days was "his own stove-maker."

Up until the 17th century, people in Russia were heated "black", until one day someone's "bright head" figured out that the smoke could be directed somehow. At first, they began to install a smoke cap - epancha, which was connected to a hole in the ceiling, above the stove.

Only about half a century later, a through pipe appeared, leading the combustion products of fuel straight to the street. This was the beginning of the design, which still remains almost unchanged and is called the Russian stove.

For the device of such a furnace, you already need to have special knowledge and skills. This is how the craft of the stove-maker arose.

About craft

As a rule, they studied as a stove-maker, as they say, "from under the arm." At first, the student was taken as an apprentice, then he could become an independent master. Often, whole dynasties of stove-makers arose, where skill passed from father to son.

unknown , CC BY-SA 3.0

Outstanding personalities took part in the development of the oven industry. Peter I tried to somehow modernize the stoves, borrowing ideas from abroad. Most likely, he sent our stove-makers there to study.

Mikhail Lomonosov was fond of furnace business and conducted scientific research to improve the scheme of the furnace.

Furnaces were modernized and improved. This is understandable, because neither ordinary people nor kings could do without heating in cold weather.

Hanna Zelenko, CC BY-SA 3.0

Despite the fact that scientists were engaged in the modernization of stoves, the stove-maker's craft in the 18th-19th centuries remained one of the lowest paid, especially in artels.

In 1865, the architect V. I. Sobolshchikov (1813-1872) wrote the book “Stove Mastery. A book that teaches how a good stove master should work and how to make such stoves that will heat and ventilate the room. In his book, he praises the importance of a quality stove-maker:

After reading my instruction on how a stove-maker should work, an honest master will say: you can work like that, but what should you take for such work? This can be answered: do what you should and take what you should.
The furnace master must be kept at home in the same way that a doctor is kept at the family.

The stove-maker's craft became more and more in demand with the development of technical progress, with the construction of factories and plants. We had to arrange special, special ovens. Of course, the design and schemes were developed by specialist architects. But it was impossible to do without good stove-makers.

Here is how the magazine "Advice of Professionals" describes the already modern stove-maker:

What is an approximate portrait of a modern stove-maker, a master of his craft: a little more than middle-aged.
The stove-maker is erudite - he can easily draw an analogy between the furnace "current century" and the "past century".
A professional stove-maker is a competent specialist, a person who has found his calling and knows the price of high-quality, skillful, meaningful and well-done work.

Professional quality

A stove specialist must have a wide range of skills and knowledge:

• stonemason
• tiler plasterer
• carpenter
• digger
• fitter
• concrete worker
• locksmith
• carpenter

And besides:

• understand heat engineering
• be able to mix the solution
• understand the quality of materials

And that's not all. Experienced stove-makers joke that they also need to be psychologists in order to talk with customers, and artists, and economists.

Basic tools

• The pickaxe hammer is the main tool of the stove-setter, it is used for splitting, trimming bricks, and also performs all the functions of a conventional hammer.
• The trowel is another basic tool. Serves for spreading the solution.
• A rubber mallet is used for upsetting and leveling bricks during laying.
• The building level determines the horizontal laying of the furnace walls.
• Roulette - a tool for measuring length-width-height.

In addition - plumb lines, grinders, drills and much more.

Craft in our time

The stove-maker's craft can now be called a profession. You can study at special courses, but there are very few vocational schools that train specialists in this area.

In the late 1990s, stove-makers began to unite in guilds. There is, for example, the Guild of Stove Makers of the Moscow Chamber of Crafts, in St. Petersburg there is a similar organization.

Photo gallery

Helpful information

pecheklad
furnace master
to bake - to trade in the craft of a stove-maker
bakery

chicken hut

“Kurnaya”, that is, heated in black, the stove was the main, and among the peasants, the only heating device in a residential hut. A Russian adobe stove without a chimney and a stove made of stone with clay mortar with your own hands were called chicken stoves. And the hut is a chicken hut. As the name shows, the kiln stove did not allow a large fire to be built in it because of the danger of igniting a wooden hut.

Decrees of Peter I

The tsar forbade in St. Petersburg, in Moscow and in other large cities, the construction of black huts with chicken stoves. He introduced mandatory cleaning of chimneys from soot, the installation of heating stoves with indents from the wall (decree of December 10, 1722) and reduced the cost of making stove tiles. On the initiative of Peter 1, factories began to be built in Moscow, St. Petersburg and other cities for the production of cheap bricks, tiles and stove appliances, and trade in building materials for the construction of a furnace was opened.

Svizyaev I.I.

The architect Sviyazev Ivan Ivanovich (1797-1875) can be considered the central figure in the Russian bakery industry of the 19th century. The son of a serf, in 1815 he was admitted to the Academy of Arts, and in 1821, after receiving the free council of the Academy, he was awarded the title of artist-architect.

Since 1834 holds the position of senior architect of the commission for the construction of the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow.
Sviyazev I.I. during 50 years of his activity, he mainly studied and tested numerous designs of heating equipment, theoretically substantiated the methods of its design, and also invented many original fireboxes and stoves.

Beliefs

In the old days, mystical properties were attributed to stove-makers, as well as to blacksmiths. They tried to appease them and not quarrel with them, since they really could “plant kikimora” in the house of a miserly owner. That was the name of the doll, a sliver, which embodied the malicious and restless "house demon", well known in the Russian North.

Sometimes, folding the stove, they imperceptibly built a hollow bottle or the neck of a bottle or a squeaker into it. Then, when the stove was burning, sighs and howls were heard in the hut - a clear sign of the presence of a kikimora, which usually seemed to live just behind the stove.

Such tricks, as well as "bylichki" about these and similar intrigues, obviously, are the later rational reinterpretation and reinterpretation of the ancient confidence in the close acquaintance of these "knowledgeable" people with evil spirits.

USSR stove-maker

The practice of developing stoves in the USSR did not provide for compulsory licensing of stove-makers. The stove-makers were trained in vocational schools, vocational schools, trade schools, organizations that train workers at the state expense and have the right to do so, where they were issued a certificate of the established form.

In the USSR, stove-makers, along with specialists in other construction professions, were assigned categories from 1 to 6, and they worked as part of construction, repair and construction organizations and were not licensed. This gave them the right to engage in the furnace business. Furnace business, outside construction organizations, was "folk art", or individual entrepreneurship.

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Alexey Ryazankin
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Publisher: Folk art
Russian language
Number of pages: 360

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Russian language
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Russian language
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Russian language
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Russian language
Number of pages: 432/ 365
Description: This unique manual comprehensively covers the problems of women's self-defense against hooligan and criminal encroachments. Its author, a well-known Russian master of combat and martial arts, examined in detail all aspects of the psychological, tactical and technical preparation of women for effective self-defense in various situations of everyday life. This book is definitely...

03
May
2012

A practical guide to hunting men (Ilyichev (ILYIN) Andrey)

Author: Ilyichev (ILYIN) Andrey
Release year: 2012
Genre: Manual, Educational literature
Publisher: Creative group "SAMIZDAT"
Artist: Gennady Korshunov
Duration: 09:26:32
Description: Young maidens and forever young ladies! Of course, you know that most of the books on the problems of women's relations with men are written by women. This is bad, because the same authors know almost nothing about the men themselves. The book "Practical guide to hunting for men" was written for you, dear readers, by a man! You finally have the opportunity to get acquainted with...

15
Jan
2017

The art of the sophisticated. All about oral sex. Practical guide (Samuhina Neonilla)

Format: audiobook, MP3, 128kbps
Author: Samuhina Neonilla
Release year: 2008
Genre: erotica, psychology
Publisher: Vira-M
Artist: Yulia Men
Duration: 02:52:54
Description: In this album, prepared by soitologist Neonilla Samukhina, you will learn in detail everything about the art of oral sex, which can not only give the highest sensual pleasure, but also get rid of many sexual problems. The one who masters this art is not threatened by either old age or decay, for even they cannot take away from him the skill to give "pleasure at the tip of the tongue". - Anatomy of oral caresses. ...

22
Jan
2012

Labor contract. A practical guide for employers and employees (Tikhomirov M.Yu.)

Labor contract. A Practical Guide for Employers and Employees ISBN: 978-5-89194-364-3
Format: PDF, RTF, eBook (originally computer)
Author: Tikhomirov M.Yu
Release year: 2010
Genre: Economic literature

Russian language
Number of pages: 235
Description: In an accessible form, the content of the norms on an employment contract established by the Labor Code of the Russian Federation is consistently disclosed. The concept, content, procedure for the entry into force of labor contracts, new rules for their conclusion, amendment and termination are explained. The features of the application of the corresponding...

23
oct
2010

Labor contract. A practical guide for employers and employees (Tikhomirova M.Yu.)

ISBN: 978-5-98124-543-5
Format: PDF, Scanned pages
Author: Carl Heilman
Release year: 2011
Genre: Photography, hobby
Publisher: Kind Book
Russian language
Number of pages: 176
Description: This book will teach you to find interesting scenes, natural and man-made objects for shooting, recreate in the picture and convey to the viewer the atmosphere of the place in which the photograph was taken; compose a compelling, compelling composition and take great pictures with even the most mediocre camera, with the right angle, framing, lighting and timing. You will learn how to edit and improve...

12
dec
2015

Mastery Secrets for Young Chess Players (Antonina Trofimova)

K category: Stove heating

In order to split a brick, you need to know that burnt, unburned and cracked bricks are not suitable for pinning. Brick is selected normal firing, without cracks. When struck with a hammer, it makes a clear sound.

For fathering, it is better to choose a slightly unburned brick.

Water for the preparation of a clay solution should not contain acid and alkali. The best option is to use rainwater.

The laying of the furnace must be carried out strictly according to the drawing and description. Each row must be compared with the drawing and immediately correct the mistakes made. Particular attention should be paid to the dressing of the seams, the horizontal rows and the verticality of the corners.

When laying out the first row dry between the bricks, a gap is left for a seam 5-6 mm thick. The corners are laid out on a square. The side walls between the corners are laid out exactly in a straight line, which is outlined by applying the rule. The walls of the furnace are made parallel to the walls of the building. For this, the distances from the extreme bricks of one side to the walls of the building are made equal. After laying the bricks of the first row dry, the contour is outlined with chalk, and only then do they begin laying with mortar.

The horizontality of the first row is achieved in the following way. One of the extreme bricks is placed on the mortar, a thicker layer of mortar is placed under the second brick, and a rule with a level is placed on these bricks. By pressing the second brick into the mortar, “a strict horizontal row is achieved. Do the same with the rest of the corner bricks.

To lay out the corners along the plumb line, nails are driven into the ceiling in the right places. A cord is attached to the nails, the lower ends of which are tied to nails driven into the seams in the corners. To achieve an accurate installation, the nails are bent in the right direction.

Small-sized furnaces can be built using retractable formwork. The formwork consists of guide posts made of angle steel, which are installed at the corners, and a wooden box without a bottom 50 cm high. The dimensions of the box around the perimeter are equal to the dimensions of the furnace. The box is inserted into the corner posts after laying the first rows, including the furnace door. Then the laying is carried out inside the formwork to its top. After its filling, the formwork is shifted up and the operation is repeated. If the formwork is to be used repeatedly, it is recommended to cover it with sheet steel so that the inner surface remains smooth longer.

The lining of the firebox with refractory bricks cannot be tied with ordinary bricks of the outer walls of the firebox, because refractory and ordinary bricks have different coefficients of thermal expansion.

Fireboxes and chimneys must not be coated with clay mortar inside.

For a better passage of flue gases, the inner surface of the chimneys should be smooth, the corners should be rounded, and the expansions should be smooth.
Burning potato peels reduces soot deposits in the chimney. Aspen logs are also suitable for this purpose. The draft is checked by burning paper folded into a tube at the blower door. With good draft, the flame is drawn into the blower hole.

If the furnace is laid in winter, the temperature in the room where the work is being carried out must be sufficient so that the solution does not freeze. The solution is made on water at a temperature of 18-20 ° C.

- Tips from an experienced master for a beginner stove-maker