What are peonies sick with, what pests are they affected by. How to grow tree peonies and how to care for them

Peonies delight in spring with bright blooms. In the Celestial Empire, where the flower comes from, the plant is cultivated as a medicinal plant and used in landscape design. It is believed that the peony protects from evil spirits and has magical qualities. The light-loving plant is easy to care for, but it is important to monitor its health.

Peony diseases

Peonies are often exposed to viral or fungal phytodiseases.

Common infections that fungus causes include:

• rust;
• gray rot;
• types of spots.

The leaf mosaic belongs to viral pathologies.

On a note. Flower crops are usually infected with several viruses, making therapy difficult.

Among the harmful insects that like peony, there are:

• ants;
• caterpillars;
• bronze.

Causes

High humidity provokes fungal diseases of peonies. Infection of peonies with gray rot occurs in adverse weather during the spring and summer seasons. Humidity and heat become the causes of rust. The danger of the fungus is increased by an excess of nitrogen and dense plantings.

pion diseases

Weather conditions do not play a special role in the growth of viral diseases.

It is generated:

Gray rot is a dangerous fungal disease that completely affects the flower. Found at an early stage on sluggish young branches in early spring. Later, the formation of a gray coating on various organs of culture and brownish spots on peonies around the peduncle in the zone of the root collar are added to the symptoms.

Disease symptoms

Recognize rust on peonies by brown or reddish spots on the foliage, which consist of fungal spores. Powdery mildew signals white coating at the top of the leaf plate of adults.

On a note! Viral diseases are manifested by spots, light stripes, necrotic inclusions.

Treatment

It is important to start therapy of infected plants on time. Rust is dangerous because fungal spores spread with the movement of the wind and cause infection of other crops. Timely removal and elimination of diseased foliage, spraying bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture are appreciated. The liquid is used to spray peonies in the spring to prevent gray rot infestation. For prevention, they fight ants - carriers of the disease. If an infected area is found on a bush, it is immediately cut out and destroyed, the peony is sprayed with a suspension of Tiram (0.6%).

Powdery mildew is resisted by spraying plants with a solution of sodium carbonate (0.5%). Peonies are treated twice, observing a 10-day break between procedures. Figon's solution (0.2%) is effective in the fight against powdery mildew.

Spraying peonies

Diseases for which viruses are responsible cannot be cured. Affected peonies or areas are removed from the flower bed and destroyed. In such a situation, the main method of struggle is prevention. It is required during the growing season to weed out weeds in the front garden - the focus of infection. It is necessary to keep garden tools clean: be sure to disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate after pruning diseased flowers.

It is important to remember about pests that are the cause of the development of viral pathologies. Therefore, they take timely preventive measures and treat plants with pesticides.

Peony diseases

Like garden plants, peonies get sick. Sometimes phytodiseases have a viral or fungal breed. It is important for flower growers to understand the diseases of peonies and their treatment, especially when twisting leaves.

Watching the video will allow amateur flower growers to understand the causes of pion ailments and take adequate measures to heal them.

Gray rot

The development of gray rot usually falls at the end of spring. In the process of illness, the foliage loses its freshness, mold appears everywhere.

gray mold on peonies

Manifestations

• brown spots on peony leaves, wilting and drying of plants;
• the appearance of a grayish coating on dark spots in conditions of warmth and humidity;
• the acquisition of a black tint at the bottom of the stem and its breakage and fall;
• rotting of buds, flowers, shoots.

Causes

• separation of fungal spores by color;
• excessive humidity, shading landings, poor ventilation;
• excess nitrogen supplements.

The disease threatens the entire plant: branches, leaves, buds become infected. A diseased flower sneezes and dies. Damp weather causes the rapid spread of gray rot.

Treatment

The affected areas are immediately cut out and destroyed. On the onset spring season the bush is treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Bordeaux mixture

Ways to preserve flower health include prevention:

• choose varieties that are not susceptible to harmful microorganisms for cultivation;
• planted on a lighted flower bed with permeable and loose soil away from trees and shrubs;
• when planting, they check the roots and remove rotten roots with a sharp disinfected device, lubricate the wounds with brilliant green or sprinkle with charcoal;
• warm up root system pions for 10-12 minutes in water heated to +60 .. + 70 ºC, dried, then planted in holes, sprinkled with ash beforehand;
• avoid the introduction of nitrogen after the flowering of the plant;
• carry out short pruning peony shoots for the winter;
• periodically loosen the soil.

In the fight against peony rot, fungicides are resorted to:

• Soon and Pureflower;
• Mikosan and Maxim;
• Vectra and Planriza.

Rust

If the leaves on the peony turn red, and a plaque appears, the plant suffers from rust.

Rust

Manifestations

• damage to the leaves: the formation of brown uneven spots, and on the underside of the leaf - pads with spores of the fungus;
• reddening of the leaves;
• premature bushes turn yellow and dry;
• winter badly;
• grow slowly the next year.

If no action is taken, the disease is rapidly transmitted to other crops. With the flowering of peonies, the disease progresses. Fungi of this type have enhanced cold resistance. With the advent of spring, rust doubles its activity and is able to destroy the entire flower garden.

Causes

The rust fungus is responsible for why peony leaves turn red. It develops in the middle of summer on a pine tree, where it remains on its legs and hibernates.

When peonies bloom, the disease progresses

Treatment

It is useful for summer residents to know why a peony has red leaves and what to do in this case. Take the following measures:

• remove the affected leaves;
• collect and burn vegetation waste;
• dig deep into the soil;
• in early spring, when the shoots appear, the top 2-3 cm layer of earth is removed and fresh soil is poured, which is mixed with sand;
• sprayed with a solution of ammonia or tar soap: for 10 liters of liquid 3 tbsp. l. facilities.

If the disease is activated, fungicides are used:

• Bordeaux liquid, which is prepared from 10 liters of water with the addition of 100 g of lime and copper sulfate;
• colloidal sulfur (per 10 liters of water 100 g of the drug);
• copper oxychloride (per 10-liter bucket 40 g).

Copper oxychloride

Leaf curl

Peony bushes react sharply to watering. Lack of moisture or excess has a negative effect on the culture: the leaves of the plant may curl, or root rot develops.

Causes

• insufficient illumination;
• potassium deficiency in the ground or soil voids;
• damage to the roots by harmful insects;
• exposure to viruses and fungi.

Leaf curl

Treatment

It is sometimes difficult to figure out why the leaves of peonies suddenly curl and what to do. If the foliage twists in the absence of damage and stains, the reason lies in the incorrect care of the plant. You should not use chemical preparations, it is enough to correct the care of the peony.

If the leaves of the peony are twisted, and the rhizome turns black as a result of the disease, then:

• when transplanting bushes in September, diseased roots are removed, rotten parts of the roots are carefully cut off;
• sprinkle the places of cuts with coal powder, which is mixed with Fundazol or sulfur in a ratio of 2: 1;
• carry out a 30-minute sanitization of the root system using chemicals: 1% copper sulfate, 1% TMTD, 2% Fundazol or a mixture of 0.6% TMTD and 0.2% Fundazol;
• when planting, they try not to deepen the rhizomes and cuttings very much, spilling with a mixture of Zineb and Fundazol or TMTD;
• during the growing season, Fitosporin-M and Alirin-B, Gamair and Aktofit are used.

Peony pests and their control

When peonies are left unattended, the bushes are affected by harmful insects. Photos will help establish how to deal with pests and improve peonies.

bronze beetles

Bronze beetle on a peony

What to do

To get rid of bronzers you need:

Pests are characterized by predominant damage to plant roots. Nematodes are recognized by the nodular swellings where small worms are localized.

What to do

• eliminate and burn infected peonies;
• disinfect with Formalin (1%) soil;
• carefully choose the material for planting;
• dig deep into the ground before planting flower bushes;
• dispose of the remains of vegetation when cleaning the garden plot.

Gall nematodes

sod ant

Harmful insects with a yellowish-reddish body are sure to appear on peonies because of the sweet syrup, which attracts ants. Pests gnaw the edges of the petals along with the leaves.

What to do

In opposition to ants sprayed with repellents flower crops, as well as the soil around the bush.

Soddy ant on a peony

Summer residents practice spraying decoctions of aromatic crops:

• wormwood and tansy;
• mint and lavender;
• bay leaf and anise;
• needles and parsley.

Treatment of peonies in the spring from diseases and pests

For the purpose of prevention, with the advent of spring, a comprehensive series of measures are carried out, which are aimed at protecting against pests and phytodiseases.

0.1% Topaz;

0.2% Fundazol;

0.5-0.7% copper oxychloride.

To spray one plant, spend 2-3 liters of solution.

On a note. After snowmelt, many gardeners water the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate, using 1-2 g per 5-6 liters near the peony to protect against fungal infection.

Folk remedies

The recipe with celandine is popular among folk remedies. For cooking, you will need 0.5 kg of fresh grass, which is placed in 5 liters of boiling water and infused for 2 hours. Sick peonies are sprayed with filtered tincture, the procedure is repeated with an interval of 5 days.

Celandine for the treatment of peonies

If necessary, spraying with antifungal drugs is carried out every 10 days until the symptoms of the disease disappear.

Biologicals

Biological products are productive in the battle against peony phytodiseases:

• treats rust Extrasol-55;
• protects against gray rot Glyokladin;
• fights against rust, annular leaf mosaic, gray rot Alirin-B.

The drug "Gliocladin"

Prevention of diseases and pests of peonies

To prevent peony phytodiseases, it is recommended to adhere to preventive measures:

• observe the agrotechnical rules of watering and loosening, fertilizing and weeding;
• use healthy seedlings for planting;
• purchase varieties of peonies that are resistant to diseases;
• treat the bushes 3 times with chemicals per season;
• keeping garden equipment clean.

Peonies are not particularly demanding in care, so many homeowners prefer these flowers for their decorative properties. However, sometimes plants are affected by harmful insects and diseases. In the fight against pests, flower growers will be helped by a description of the symptoms of diseases, as well as the means used that will solve the problem and make the flower garden even more beautiful.

With its exquisite beauty, the tree-like peony, the care and cultivation of which does not differ much in terms of complexity from garden care with its closest relative (herbaceous peony), will become a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower belongs to deciduous plants.

Tree peony, photo:

Its height can reach 1.5-2 m in height, it has upright powerful shoots that grow every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of different shades, but also by carved, as if openwork leaves of a pinnate shape. Multi-petal buds are crowned with strong stems, which can reach from 14 to 23 cm in diameter. The tree-like peony impresses with its colors, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, rich fuchsia, yellow, pale lilac, blue (Blue Sapphire) and even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has a diameter of just the indicated 23 cm (and the second one even more).

Flower sizes, photo:

The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also diverse: terry, semi-double, plain smooth. A notable feature of the tree is an increase in the number of flowers every year. The time of its flowering begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative, the ordinary peony. He has a higher tolerance for cold, he has a more stable “immunity” compared to his grassy counterpart.

Gradient coloring of flower petals, photo:

The bush is characterized by abundant flowering, the number of blooming buds at the same time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the flowering phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, in itself is able to decorate any summer cottage or flower bed.

Foliage of a tree peony, photo:

Due to its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious, with its individuality it will appropriately emphasize a hedge, an arch, an area near a gazebo, a garden bench or an entrance to a house.

The first visual difference is more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact, it is a shrub. In the herbaceous, closer to cold weather, the stems and shoots die off, and the tree-like only builds them up, turning into a spherical shrub every year, which can reach 2 meters in height. In autumn, of course, he sheds foliage, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if woody.

Another point, on a tree representative, you do not need to periodically cut the buds to stimulate subsequent flowering and distribution. vitality plants. This method works well only in the case of its grassy "relative". Tree-like in its "behavior" is similar to cold-resistant garden roses- it tolerates winter well, but in especially severe frosts (in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with special covering material. Also, spruce branches can also be used for these purposes.

If your peony feels comfortable on the site, you do everything competently and in a timely manner, then its flowering period will last about 3-4 weeks. It usually blooms earlier than its herbaceous counterpart for one and a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in central Russia they bloom in the first weeks of the calendar summer. Without transplanting, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photos below are already 20-30 years old. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

Photos of long-lived bushes:

Another significant nuance (and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the moment of planting in open ground. First, one flower appears at the end of a straight-growing shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush picks up color, grows shoots, and is abundantly covered with buds. In the first years, it may seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is normal for this species, for the first five years it generally adds very slowly in volume and growth. The temporal difference in the "ripening" of the bush is another difference.

To briefly summarize the main difference between tree-like and herbaceous, you can use the following parameters:

• bush height;
• the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
• nuances, differences in care;
• run hardness.

Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as fast as we would like. In order for the bush to begin to produce flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.

This question can be seen very often on thematic flower forums or various gardening groups in in social networks. The answer is predictable - improper care, an unsuccessfully chosen landing site, as well as illiterate soil preparation for it (lack of drainage, failure to properly deepen the flower into the soil). These nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, which has not yet reached the stage of the appearance of flowers (as we remember, more than one year must pass for a tree-like peony to give color).

The place for placing the bushes should be bright and spacious, the soil should be fertile, loose, alkaline.

This plant does not like transplanting very much - you should be aware of this. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is still required, then all actions should be performed very carefully. It is necessary to remove the bush from the soil with an earthen clod, vigilantly monitor so that the roots are not damaged. However, be prepared for the fact that the flower after this event will take a very long time to recover, get sick and adapt to a new place for 2 or even 3 years.

Proper watering also has a big impact on flowering. Watering should be plentiful and generous at a time, but this should not be done often! Stagnant water is dangerous for him, therefore, if clay soil prevails in your area, provide your pet with high-quality drainage before planting (put a drainage layer in the hole under the flower). It develops and grows better in open sunny places, but in partial shade the flowers retain their freshness and duration of flowering longer.

I will summarize the main reasons why a tree peony does not bloom:

1. Insufficient or, conversely, excessive penetration of the bush into the soil during planting.
2. Overzealous nitrogenous fertilizers.
3. Excessive passion or, conversely, insufficient provision of top dressing (this flower does not need a large amount of auxiliary additives).
4. Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, by abnormal heat. Diseases should also not be written off. When planting a flower, always consider the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature characteristics of the weather in your area. For example, when living in warm regions, choose early-flowering varieties.
5. A banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
6. Age - young bushes bloom at 4 or 5 years of age, as mentioned above.
7. Too close distance between plants - he loves space.
8. Transplantation (sometimes repeated) or division of the rhizome can also be the result of the absence of flowers.
9. Pruning shoots. Out of ignorance, some gardeners cut the shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage has begun to change color (darken) or fall off.
10. Excessive dryness or, conversely, waterlogging of the soil. Remember that between waterings the earth should have time to dry out.

Many gardeners would like a flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of a grassy fellow. Breeders are not idle and are constantly trying to develop new hybrids, they are called ITO peonies (new generation peonies) - but that's a completely different story.

Separately growing bush (he needs space), photo:

Pay attention to planting material- its root system is open or closed. When purchased at the relevant points of sale, the seedling may already have special packaging (for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, may be bare or in a bag with a substrate. Such indicators tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a finished pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.

Be sure to look at whether the seedling is grafted or has its own roots. If there is a graft, then the roots are different dark color and thickness. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance are somewhat similar to carrots. In such representatives, flowers may appear in the first year of life after planting. Such specimens must be purchased from the appropriate nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and nothing else.

If you got a seedling obtained from a layering, then its roots will be light, thin and long. After planting it, you can see flowers after 4 years (approximately). There is nothing new in the “scheme” for obtaining layering: a healthy and strong shoot with buds is bent to the ground, pinned, covered with soil. After a certain time, roots sprout from the buds, the shoot is cut off and divided into several fragments with roots.

When purchasing such a seedling obtained from a layer, pay attention that its roots are not exposed, and the plant itself has at least 5 viable buds. The length of such a seedling must be at least 25 cm!

In order for a beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the very first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for planting it. The most favorable period for this is the end of summer / beginning of autumn. If possible, determine for him an elevated place, illuminated by the rays of the sun. Dense trees growing nearby or various buildings will create a dense shadow - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the best place. Winds and drafts are also highly undesirable. What swings planting in the spring, it is not recommended due to the complex adaptation of the plant, because growth and flowering are activated during this period.

Loams are the ideal soil for this flower, if sandy soil prevails in your area, then add turf, clay, peat, humus to it in advance. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the earth for the harmonious development of the peony. He also does not like acidic soil, so “deoxidize” it in advance by adding lime. Plant a flower where there is no low groundwater flow, but if there is no other possibility, then the hole for it must be made quite deep (about 70-80 cm, the diameter is similar). Lay a drainage layer at the bottom of the recess, somewhere around 30-35 cm, crushed stone or gravel of a fine fraction is perfect for this. In extreme cases, a 30 cm layer of river sand can also be used.

Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing complicated here: build a small mound of earth in the pit, put a bush on it, straighten the roots carefully, pour generously with water. After the moisture has been absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling in such a way that its root collar is at the same level with the soil surface.

If you plant several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters from one plant to another!

The so-called "finicky" is to find the golden mean - the creation of optimal and harmonious conditions. The burning sun is harmful, but a thick shadow is also unacceptable, he loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with rotting of the roots, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become a chic lush shrub. The soil is important, because it is the nutrition of the plant, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, in this task there is nothing difficult for an enthusiastic gardener, since every green inhabitant requires attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and awareness of success, which nevertheless turned out, grew, blooms and smells!

Tree peony planting and care - additions (optional):

1. Some gardeners say that the planting hole must first "ripen". I already wrote about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives above, but according to some experienced flower growers, this pit should be prepared a month before planting a seedling. That is, make all the additives in advance, and only then deepen the seedling into the pit.
2. When a seedling is deepened into the ground, its lowest bud should already be embedded in the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners recommend laying such a “pie” at the bottom of the pit in advance: a layer of humus, a thin layer of earth, add complex top dressing on top, evenly sprinkle 1 a tablespoon (with a slide) of copper sulfate. For greater reliability, you can mix a little slaked lime with the soil (to lower the pH).
3. If the seedling fell into your hands late autumn or in winter, then “sleep” it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable earth mixture, deepen a bush into it, place it in a cool, but lit room. Over this entire period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in recent weeks August or the first two weeks of September, you can plant it for permanent residence in open ground.

Listen to these additions or plant a plant without any special tricks - you choose. As practice shows, with proper observance of all requirements, in both cases you will get a positive result.

The basic care for him, in principle, is the same as for the grassy one. From time to time, you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it. If your bush boasts an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to create a support for it so that the branches do not break under the weight of the flowers.

One bush requires about 6-8 liters of water, such abundant watering should be carried out at least 2 times a month. Be aware of possible precipitation! During summer heat this can be done more often - the condition of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. From about August, the volume of water during irrigation should be gradually reduced until completely eliminated. It is recommended to push the ground around the bush a couple of days after watering, when the top layer of the earth dries up. The depth of immersion of a garden tool in the soil during loosening should be no more than 5 cm. You can mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.

Peony is very fond of nitrogen and potassium, it must be applied regularly. Nitrogen top dressings are relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium-phosphorus supplements will be appropriate from the moment when the peony begins to form flower buds until the very end of the growing season. When the bush begins to produce flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, a little nitrogen can be added. However, it should be remembered that an overabundance of this component can ruin it, so whether to add nitrogen in this period or not is up to you. Sometimes it's better to be underdressed than overdressed - this is the case with nitrogen fertilization. Do not forget to moisten the ground abundantly before each fertilization - this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.

While your peony is at a young age, for the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied by the foliar method: approximately 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and the bush is irrigated with a spray gun after each watering. Thus, the plant receives "nutrition" through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in the spring, during the appearance of new shoots, during the swelling of the buds, after the bush has completely faded.

As mentioned above, the tree peony is cold-resistant, however, purchased specimens need mandatory protection in winter time. It will be better if for the first couple of years you cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spunbond, burlap or spruce branches. Additionally, you can make a “cap” of snow on top. The cultivation and protection (even adults) of peonies in cold regions was mentioned above.

Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a care character. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shriveled and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

In China, there is a tendency to produce a radical anti-aging pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut almost to the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening, activating new buds, which subsequently gives a "second life" to the flower.

Or, each branch is cut to the border of the second bud - such pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. How they have it in China - they know better, and in our regions, according to experienced observations, the tree-like peony does not really like pruning, so with the onset of spring, at least remove damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some branches are very frozen, do not rush to cut them off, it is quite possible that the buds will still “depart”, wake up and bloom - this also happens.

The main diseases and methods of dealing with them:

1. The most dangerous and insidious enemy is gray rot (aka Botrytis). This fungal disease it is activated when the soil is waterlogged and there is a lack of sun (for example, when it is rainy in summer). A grayish coating appears on the leaves - if you notice this, then immediately cut off the suspicious fragments and burn them somewhere away from the site. Another sign of this disease is the softening and sharp withering of young and strong shoots. It is treated with irrigation with potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 liters of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate), also diluted with water. It is necessary to irrigate not only the ground part of the bush, but also the soil around it, and even the mulch.
2. Brown spotting - the same actions. Prevention from it is irrigation with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 liters of water). Affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (ground part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
3. Rust (some gardeners claim that this is a synonym for brown spotting) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the entire plant is destroyed in a day. First, brown-violet spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage twists sharply and dries at the same time. Radical treatment - removal of all affected parts of the shrub and their destruction. In the case of rust, prevention helps well: timely loosening of the soil to ensure inflow fresh air(removal of weeds and thinning of other nearby growing plants). In early spring, even before the leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it must be treated with a solution of nitrafen diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be enough.
4. Ring-shaped mosaic of foliage is another viral disease that is manifested by the appearance of stripes and "rings" on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green tint, as practice shows, the annular mosaic does not particularly affect the flowering and development of the bush, but it spoils the appearance of the foliage. The strips dry out over time and the sheet seems to crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be diluted as indicated on the package.

By the way, diseases are very often transmitted not only through infected planting material or soil, but also through garden tools. Insects, even common ants, can carry the fungus or virus to healthy bushes.

A real garden aristocrat - a tree-like peony, growing and caring, as well as an approach to oneself, oddly enough, requires a completely unpretentious and has no special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of an ornamental flower and a shrub. The long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with its beauty for many years and even decades.

Peonies have long been famous for their lush flowering and unpretentiousness. That is why gardeners prefer this shrub. Of course, there are some nuances in the growing process. Consider the process of planting and caring for a plant, and also find out whether it is necessary to prune tree peonies before the winter period.

The tree peony is a deciduous shrub. The size of the plant can reach 1.5-2 meters. The leaves of the flower are ornamental, openwork. The stems are brown, rather thin. It is worth noting that they don't die in autumn but only increase every year. Large flowers with a diameter of 12-20 centimeters are located at the ends of the shoots.

There are many colors: from white and light pink, ending with bright purple, raspberry. There are bicolor varieties. tree peony cold-resistant.

There are three main types of plants:

1. Japanese.
2. Chinese-European.
3. Hybrid.

The number of flowers is directly proportional to the age of the peony: the older it is, the more magnificent it blooms. The average flowering period of the plant is about two to three weeks. Planting and caring for tree peonies is standard, but attention must be paid to the characteristics of the plant.

Growing conditions

Peonies are considered light-loving plants, it is because of this that harmonious growth will require a sunny area, best of all - on a small hill. Plants do not tolerate transplant, so the landing site must be permanent. It is better if there are no other large plants around: such as shrubs or trees.

Growing a tree peony will require advance preparation of the site and soil. Flooded areas with excessive moisture are not suitable for the growth of a tree peony. If there is no alternative, it will be necessary to install drainage and ensure the removal of excess moisture. Give preference to soil alkaline reaction(from 7.5 to 8 pH).

Planting a tree peony

An excellent time for planting a tree peony can rightfully be called the period from mid-August to early October. It is necessary to choose a land plot protected from the wind and well-lit. We will take a detailed look at the process of growing a plant from a seedling, but there is also the option of growing a tree peony from seed.

Make sure the soil is loamy and moist before planting. With increased dryness of the soil, add humus, clay or peat to it. Too heavy, clay soil can be diluted with organic fertilizers or sand. If the soil is acidic, add lime or bone meal to it.

Planting process

You will need to dig a cone-shaped hole. The diameter of the hole at the surface, as well as its depth, is approximately 60-70 centimeters. Then make a small layer of drainage from gravel, expanded clay or broken brick, no more than 20 centimeters. When planting several plants, you will need to keep a distance of 1.5-2 meters.

It is best if the soil has time to settle - so the holes will have to be dug in advance, two to three weeks before planting.

Place fertile soil on top so that it forms a small mound. Now you need to plant and water the tree peony seedling abundantly. After a while, the earth will settle on its own, and the roots will straighten.

If there are buds on the tree peony seedling, they must be removed. After the liquid is completely absorbed, fill the hole. Trampling the soil is not required.

plant care

The care process spends a lot of time, but only when comprehensive care you keep the plant healthy. The following activities are considered the most important:

• loosening the soil after watering,
• watering,
• removal of weeds.

The watering mode is standard for peonies of any variety: they are watered twice a month, 6-7 liters of water per bush. Of course, it is necessary to take into account natural conditions, and in hot climates, moisten the plantings more abundantly. In August, watering can be reduced, and in the fall it must be completely stopped.

Fertilizing peonies is most important in the spring, as plants need nitrogen fertilizers.

For the period of bud formation, purchase fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. Do not forget that an excess of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the death of plantings. Mulching with humus is useful in the summer.

The formation of tree peony bushes allows you to give it a beautiful appearance. During the swelling of the kidneys (in the spring), it is necessary to cut off damaged and dried shoots, and cut the branches to the upper axillary point.

By the beginning of November, it is necessary to tie the shoots of the plant, mulch the trunk circle. It will be necessary to trim the plant by two-thirds of the length of the leaves, which will increase frost resistance. At the first frost, peonies are covered with burlap or spruce branches.

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Tree peony care in autumn preparation for winter. Especially for the readers of “Popular about Health”, I will consider how to properly complete the season for such a plant as a tree peony - leaving in the fall, preparing for winter, what do they mean for it. How to perform all the necessary manipulations so that this beautiful plant and next year delighted gardeners with its stunning flowers?

Features of a tree peony

The tree peony is a deciduous shrub whose height varies from 150 to 200 centimeters. Thick erect shoots are painted in pale brown. Unlike a grassy peony, the stems of such a plant do not fade in autumn, but grow more and more every year, and over time, the bush becomes semi-spherical. Ornamental, openwork leaves are doubly pinnate. The flowers are placed at the ends of the stems, their diameter varies from 12 to 20 centimeters or more. Such flowers are terry, semi-double and simple. They can be painted in white, purple, yellow, pink, crimson, and there are also two-tone ones. With age, flowering becomes more abundant. The flowering of such a peony begins 2 weeks earlier than the herbaceous one, and its duration is 14–21 days. Such peonies are resistant to cold.

Preparing a tree peony for winter

During the preparation of the plant for winter, flower growers begin to think about how to save peonies in winter, whether it is necessary to cover a tree-like peony for the winter and how to do it.

In fact, opinions differ in the floricultural literature, some authors recommend covering peonies in the winter months, while others consider it superfluous. In fact, the peony is not as afraid of frost as early spring thaws, during which peony buds uncovered by snow or covered with material can wake up, and, as a rule, frosts following a thaw can destroy a plant that has begun to grow. Therefore, the conclusion suggests itself that sheltering a peony for the winter is a very useful measure.

In order to cover the peony, in October you need to tie the shoots, mulch the near-trunk circle with peat (humus), and with the onset of cold weather it is better to cover the plant with a hut made of spruce branches, foliage, a thick layer of crushed bark, sawdust or just bags of jute, so that the wintering of the tree-like pion went well.

If we are talking about a herbaceous peony, after flowering, its stems must be cut to a level of 5-7 cm above the ground, mulched in the same way as described above in the case of a tree peony. If you live in a very cold region, then shelter will not be out of place.

In principle, these are the main aspects that will help you properly care for peonies after flowering and prepare them well for wintering.

Autumn pruning of a tree peony for winter

When to prune peonies for the winter

Preparing plants for winter is a rather responsible event, because if you cut them prematurely, there is a risk of ruining the entire flower. That is why the question of when to prune bushes for the winter is very important.

Here it is worth focusing on the appearance of the bush. If all its stems fall to the ground, you can proceed to the procedure.

Features of pruning a tree peony

Plants for the winter should be cut at the root. All removed parts of the plant (stems, leaves) should be taken out of the flower garden to prevent the development of pathogenic fungi. Cut bushes must be protected from frost.

Rules for pruning a tree peony

There are some rules that will help answer the question of whether it is necessary to prune the bushes after flowering, and how to do it correctly.

For the procedure to be successful, you need to do the following:

Start pruning for the winter after the first frost, when all the stems of the bush fall to the ground.

The stems of the plant should be cut almost to the root, leaving sprouts above the buds no more than 10 cm high.

The remaining root system must be carefully covered from the cold with humus or dry peat.

How to cover a tree peony for the winter

According to experienced gardeners, it is not difficult to insulate a tree peony for the winter. First you need to sprinkle the trunk circle with peat, and with the onset of frost, you only need a few spruce branches, from which you need to build something like a hut around. To prevent the hut from crumbling, tie the branches with twine.

Alternatively, you can prepare oak leaves in advance and fill them with a frame built around the bush. It additionally needs to be covered from dampness.

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The layer of peat with which you will sprinkle the ground around the bushes must be at least 10 cm. northern regions you can increase it to 15-20 cm. This warm shelter will not only save the plant, but also give the nutrients necessary for growth and development in the spring. Peonies covered in this way will bloom earlier and more abundantly, since peat and humus will become a good growth stimulator for plants.

Propagation of a tree peony by seeds

With the help of seeds, you can not only propagate, but also get your own varieties of tree-like peonies, which will not be in any garden. When propagating peony seeds, you need to have time to collect them correctly and on time. To do this, two weeks after flowering, the seed boxes are tied with gauze - this technique will allow you not to lose a single ripe seed. Seeds are collected when the boxes open and the seeds spill into gauze.

Tree peony seeds quickly lose their germination capacity, so they are sown in the year of harvest.

For sowing, an ordinary plastic deep box (for example, from under fruits) and a pallet suitable for it are prepared. Prepare a soil mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1.

The collected seeds have a very hard shell, which must be broken, i.e. perform scarification. I use two sheets of fine sandpaper for this. I put several seeds on one sheet and cover it with a second sheet of sandpaper on top, press it with my palm and roll the seeds, or you can use a file.

The seeds are placed in a box with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 cm, sprinkled with a layer of river sand of 0.5 cm on top. To prevent the soil from drying out, the box is inserted into a bag and tightly tied (I use large garbage bags). Seeds are sown sparsely, with a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, because they will have to spend a lot of time in the box, and there should not be crowding. To meet all temperature recommendations, I choose a hot day for sowing and put the box in the greenhouse at noon. There, the seeds are warmed up like in a sauna, and by the evening the temperature slowly drops, which also corresponds to the sowing conditions. In the evening (around 22:00) I take the box from the greenhouse and put it in the refrigerator, where sprouts should appear after a while.

As soon as the plants hatch, I take out the box and bury it in the garden (already without a pallet), I build a greenhouse around it by analogy with cuttings, and also cover it for the winter.

Propagation of a tree peony by cuttings

How to propagate tree peonies from cuttings? Let's describe this procedure step by step. Guided by our instructions, even beginners can cope with it. The best moment for cutting cuttings from semi-lignified shoots with well-formed buds is mid-June.

Armed with a sharp knife, cuttings are cut, making oblique cuts right under the kidney.

All leaf blades must be shortened, leaving only 1/3 of their former length.

After treating the sections with a root formation stimulator, the cuttings are planted at an angle of forty-five degrees in a seedling box filled with a mixture of peat and washed river sand, taken in equal proportions. The buds should be completely buried in the soil and make sure that the cuttings do not touch each other.

To prevent evaporation of moisture, the surface of the substrate in the box is covered with a one and a half centimeter layer of sifted sand.

Having covered the boxes with plastic wrap or glass, throughout the entire period of rooting of the planting material, they take care of a constant level of soil moisture, not forgetting the need for regular ventilation of impromptu greenhouses.

In September or early October, rooted cuttings are quite ready for transplanting into individual pots. The best place for their maintenance until the onset of spring and transplantation to a permanent place is a greenhouse.

The disadvantages of this method of propagation of tree-like peonies are the high complexity and laboriousness of the process of rooting cuttings and the extremely slow development of young plants (they bloom only by the fifth year of life).

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Reproduction of a tree peony by layering

Choose a shoot that is as close to soil level as possible. In May, make an incision on it, but not very deep, and treat it with a stimulant to form roots. The shoot is tilted to the ground and fixed. About 15 cm of soil is poured on top. By autumn, the layering will already take root, then it is separated from the bush and transplanted to a new place.

You can get a new bush by rooting air layering. To do this, they make an incision in the same way, treat it with a stimulant, but then wrap it with moss and film. In August, roots should appear, this method, unfortunately, does not give a 100% guarantee of success.

Tree peony grafting

The best time for grafting a tree peony is the end of August. Root segments of herbaceous or tree-like peonies 10-15 cm long serve as a stock; The thickness of the root should match the thickness of the cutting. The roots are dug up in 2-3 weeks and kept in a cool place. Scion - only shoots of the current year, preferably with two eyes. Vaccination with a wedge-shaped cut. Make a wedge-shaped cut on the rootstock. Cut the bottom of the scion into a wedge shape. The surfaces of the scion and rootstock must be perfectly smooth so that the cambial layers coincide. Insert the scion into the rootstock, tie it tightly with electrical tape (adhesive side out) and coat with garden pitch.

Grafted plants can be planted in the ground immediately after grafting. But it is better to plant the grafted material first for 3-4 weeks in a greenhouse covered from direct sunlight, leaving the scion above the soil level, and water it regularly. Another option is to keep the grafted material for 3-4 weeks in the basement - in a horizontal position, in 2-3 layers, shifting with wet sawdust.

Side graft. Cut the scion diagonally at a slight angle. Cut the root at the same angle. Tie the combined scion and stock tightly and coat with garden pitch.

Diseases and pests of a tree peony

The tree peony is more disease resistant than its herbaceous counterpart. The only significant threat can be gray rot, the development of which contributes to excess moisture. In this case, the affected leaves must be immediately removed and burned, and the plant itself should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

If you want to start a spectacular and unusual perennial, then let it be a tree peony. Preparing for winter and caring for it will not take much time, and the unusual look and bright flowers will delight the eyes and surprise guests. It can be planted both as single bushes and in group planting, for example, with ordinary grassy peonies. And let the shrub seedlings are quite expensive, but its perennial flowering more than compensates for all costs.

It is believed that the peony refers to those flowering perennials that do not require special care. However, if a number of necessary agrotechnical measures are not carried out in the fall, then next year you can not wait for active flowering from this perennial.

How to properly prepare plants in the fall for the upcoming cold weather, what care these flowers need in the fall, how to properly cut peonies for the winter, whether they need to be covered for the winter - this and much more will be discussed below.

Autumn flower care

Autumn is the most important time in the process of caring for peonies. Usually in the spring and during the summer the main care for these flowering bushes consists in timely watering, loosening the soil, removing weeds and cutting off flowering buds. And what should be done in the fall, when this perennial is actively preparing for the upcoming cold weather?

• top dressing of flowering shrubs;
• transplanting shrubs (if there is a need for this);
• autumn pruning;
• mulching around bushes.

Other care for peonies in the fall when preparing them for winter is not required. There are no special and specific nuances in caring for a plant in the fall.

Features of preparation for winter

Pruning is the most important part of preparing peonies for winter. Therefore, one should dwell on this procedure in more detail in the autumn period, when and how the flowers are subjected to the procedure, as well as when it is necessary to make the last dressing of these flowers, and why these flowering plants need it.

Do I need to prune the plant for the winter

Many flower growers are wondering if it is necessary to cut peonies for the winter in autumn. And some novice flower growers do not understand why it is necessary to cut the foliage on this perennial shrub in the fall, because these leaves are not affected by any diseases or pests, but simply in the autumn they turn yellow, dry out - this is how the next cycle of development of this flower ends.

But at the same time, they forget that the withered foliage remaining uncut is an ideal place for wintering various harmful insects, their larvae or their eggs. Also, pathogens can “hide” there.

Therefore, it is imperative to cut off such peony leaves in the fall. This is a mandatory sanitary measure that should be performed at the end of each summer season.

Some gardeners postpone such an event until the spring, but you should not do this so that unexpected guests do not appear on the site in the spring - "harmful" bugs that have overwintered in the withered leaves of the plant. Therefore, you need to cut the leaves of peonies for the winter.

When to prune a plant in the fall

Timing is also important in this case. So, when can peonies be cut for the winter? The first pruning is carried out after the end of flowering - at this time only all wilted flowers are removed, while the foliage should not be touched.

The fact is that after the end of flowering in the leaves, the process of photosynthesis continues, which allows the roots of the plant to accumulate the nutrients they need for growth, recuperation after flowering, as well as strengthening resistance to upcoming frosts.

Therefore, early removal of leaves instead of benefits only brings harm to shrubs.

Flowers are already weakened after active growth of the vegetative mass and abundant flowering, therefore they need enhanced nutrition, and photosynthesis helps to decompose beneficial substances entering the foliage from the root system.

Therefore, the process of pruning peonies in the fall is done after the first frost. The leaves will then fall to the ground, and this will be the main sign that it is time to cut the peonies.

Until that time, the nutrients that are formed in the foliage actively entered the root system.

Some growers start pruning peony foliage for the winter when it begins to change color from green to yellow, bronze, pink or red. Amateurs perform this procedure solely because of the decrease in decorativeness in shrubs. However, the foliage dries out ahead of time only in diseased shrubs, and healthy foliage serves the perennial to accumulate the required amount of useful elements in the underground part.

And if there is a need for earlier cutting of leaves, then at least 2-3 leaves should be left on each stem, which will process the useful elements obtained from the juice from the root system.

Instruction and procedure scheme

There are no special nuances during the procedure for ordinary varieties of peonies. Usually they are pruned when all the foliage has fallen to the ground. IN different regions the timing of such peonies pruning in the fall differs due to the different times of the onset of frosts, after which they do a similar procedure. In these shrubs, the stems are cut almost to the level of the soil, leaving them sticking out of the soil for a couple of centimeters.

And the procedure for pruning tree peonies in the fall is completely different. They have the following types of procedures:

• formative;
• for shrub rejuvenation.

In the first case, such peonies pruning in the fall is necessary to give the bushes a beautiful decorative form. Therefore, in the fall, all lignified stems are cut to 0.7-0.9 m. In this case, next year, the bushes will form more young shoots, as well as this procedure contributes abundant flowering perennial. In addition, cut bushes are easier to cover before the onset of frost. But in the conditions of the European part of our country, tree-like varieties can grow up to 2.5 m in height.

Anti-aging peonies are pruned every 10-15 years in autumn to remove old shoots and activate the growth of new ones. The need for this procedure is easy to notice - the bushes grow worse during the season, and flowering noticeably decreases or stops altogether. With the right and timely anti-aging procedure, you can save the life of this flowering perennial for 60-80 years.

Important! All cut shoots, along with foliage, are immediately taken out of the site and burned, and the places of cuts and the soil are sprinkled with ash for disinfection.

Video: how to cut peonies for the winter.

Care for peonies after pruning, top dressing

Top dressing of peonies is usually done a couple of weeks before the onset of frost. The usual timing of autumn fertilization is from the second decade of September to the first decade of October. Specific dates depend on the climatic conditions of the region in which these flowers grow.

Important! In autumn, no nitrogen fertilizers are used as top dressing so that the shrub does not grow before winter.

Usually, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied on warm autumn dry days. These elements are necessary for the root system at the beginning of autumn, which continues to grow and accumulate useful substances during this period.

The advantages of this feeding method:

• the following year, stronger and larger buds grow on the stems;
• flowering bushes next season will be more active;
• the flowers will be larger in size, and their color will be more intense;
• the applied phosphorus-potassium fertilizers help strengthen the root system, allow it to strengthen its defenses against the oncoming cold weather, and the bushes themselves grow stronger and stronger next year.

Top dressing during this period is made in the following ways:

• dry;
• liquid.

If the autumn turned out to be dry, then it is better to dilute phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in water according to the instructions and apply directly under the roots. A liter of such a solution is enough for each bush.

In rainy weather, it is better to use granular fertilizers, which gradually decompose in the soil and come to the roots in certain portions. Usually dry fertilizers are scattered around the stems of the plant, lightly embedding them in the ground.

Video: preparing peonies for winter, pruning time, fertilizer.

How to cover peonies for the winter

Trimming peony bushes and fertilizing are not all measures to prepare this flowering perennial for winter. It is important to properly cover peonies for the winter so that they do not freeze out during the winter frosts. This procedure is especially relevant in those regions where there are severe frosts in winter, and the amount of snow that has fallen is small.

The growth buds of this flower lie in the soil at a depth of no more than 6 cm, so the first thing to do is to trim the bushes.

A layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 15-18 cm should be laid on top. Sawdust, spruce branches, high-moor peat, dry foliage, humus or compost can be used as such material.

It should be remembered! As a covering material, you can not use the cut foliage of the plant. It usually attracts "harmful" insects and pathogens.

During the winter, you can additionally cover the peonies with a layer of snow - it will serve as an additional "insulating" material during periods of extreme cold.

Features of preparing for the winter of a tree peony

Throughout the European territory of our country, tree-like peonies can not be covered for the winter, because, as a rule, they can winter well even without shelter. But only if they grow in a quiet place where cold winds do not rage during the season. Moreover, the earth at this time of the year can freeze to a depth of 0.8-1.0 m, and the street thermometer can drop to -28⸰С.

Young bushes of tree-like peonies cover for the winter necessarily. To do this, they are covered with a layer of peat (up to 20 cm thick), and an inverted bucket is placed on top.

Although many flower growers prune this type of peonies in the fall, experts believe that it is better to do all types of tree peonies pruning in the spring.

Video: is it necessary to cover a tree peony for the winter.

Features of preparation for cold weather depending on the region

Different regions of our country have their own nuances of preparing peonies for winter. You should consider how to prepare these shrubs for winter in areas with different climatic conditions:

1. In Siberia be sure to cover the peonies for the winter, using various mulching materials. Such shelter should be more solid than in warmer regions. Usually put on top of a layer of mulch carton boxes, buckets or plastic containers.
2. In the Urals covering the peonies is also a must. Moreover, the process of shelter is similar to what is carried out on the territory of the Siberian regions.
3. In the Volga region you can not cover the peonies for the winter so carefully - just add a layer of mulching material.
4. In the middle lane (Moscow region) for high-quality preparation of peonies for winter on open areas it is better to cover them in case of a frosty snowless winter.

Common Mistakes

Many novice flower growers often make a number of mistakes when preparing peonies for the coming cold weather.

Let's take a look at the most common ones:

• pruning too early - before the first frost;
• do not remove withered foliage in the fall, but do it at the beginning of the next season;
• in rainy weather, a liquid type of top dressing is applied under this flowering perennial, as a result, not all fertilizers are “absorbed” by the roots;
• incorrectly cover peonies for the winter.

Video: correct pruning peonies in autumn.

Preparing peonies for winter is a very important process, the correct implementation of which determines how ready the bushes will be for the next season. Therefore, flower growers should pay attention to carefully observing all the rules for preparing these flowering perennials for the cold season.

Processing peonies in spring and summer from diseases and pests is the first step to combat these misfortunes. Most often, these plants are damaged by gray and root rot, rust and ring mosaic. Gall nematodes and ants do no less harm to peonies. To protect the culture from infections and pests or to cure already developed diseases, there are many drugs, and you will learn about the most effective of them from the table on this page.

Treatment of peonies from gray rot

Gray rot (Botrytis) - Botrytis paeonia Oud- the main and most massive disease of peonies in our band. As a rule, symptoms of gray rot appear on peonies either in spring (in central Russia - in the third decade of April, especially intensively - during the wet season), or in summer - in early autumn (when it rains and high humidity is maintained, with high acidity of the soil , excess nitrogen fertilizers, heavy clay soils, high level groundwater, dense plantings, unventilated areas). The most dangerous for plants is a spring outbreak of the disease, at the time of active growth of shoots. As can be seen in the photo, with this disease, at this time, shoots with very soft tissues are affected at the point where the stems come out of the ground:

A rotten dark area appears on the side of the stem. Very soon the stem falls. Black sclerotia are visible on decaying tissues. In other years, at high temperatures during the period of active growth, the stems in the middle part are affected by the gray rot of peonies: the plant bends in this place, the top fades. If the ground is carefully raked away, the damage to the base of the stem by botrytis will be noticeable on the underground part of the damaged shoot. This is believed to be the result of a short spring quickly turning into hot weather in May. After sufficient regrowth and hardening of the tissues of the stems, in the third decade of May, stunted and weak stems are mainly affected. The second time the appearance of the disease can be observed in the summer-autumn period. The buds, sepals, petals (at the base) rot, brown spots with a gray coating appear on the leaves, the stems and leaves darken and dry out. When cutting a stem affected by the disease, brown rings are visible. We note once again that the cold season, rains and high humidity contribute to the external manifestation of botrytis. Almost any adult plant has traces of botrytis damage to one degree or another on the underground part: on the remains of last year's stems and in the zone of their transition to the rhizome, on old, beginning to die off, roots. But with proper culture management, its external manifestations will be absent or will be insignificant throughout the life of the plant. For the treatment of gray rot of peonies, it is necessary:

• compliance with the rules of planting and plant maintenance;
• periodic introduction of deoxidizing additives into the soil (bone, dolomite, limestone flour);
• removal and destruction of damaged plant parts;
• mandatory and timely full pruning of stems in the fall;
• limited use of nitrogen fertilizers;
• the use of fungicidal preparations and agents for the prevention and suppression of the disease.

Most fungicidal preparations produced by the chemical industry are suitable for combating botrytis. Among them are well-known and tested for a long time: all copper-containing, fundazol, colloidal sulfur. Terms of their application: in the spring, at the beginning of the active growth of the stems, in our lane in the third decade of April, and then 1-2 more times with an interval of 10-12 days, depending on the weather and the degree of damage to the plants. It is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the dosage of drugs and observe safety measures. To combat this disease of peonies, the following rules must be observed:

1. It is better to alternate different means, this contributes to their more effective action and reduces the accumulation of dangerous drugs in the ground. For example, you can alternate: foundationazole - 0.3% (or equivalent), chlorine oxide - 0.3% (copper sulfate - 0.5%) and potassium permanganate solution - 0.03%.
2. The concentration of preparations with a burning effect (copper sulfate) in the spring when spraying young plants should be half that for adults. At this time, young tissues are too soft and delicate, easily damaged. Strive to use a minimum of chemicals, protecting yourself, fauna and soil. If possible, use a spray, and when watering, only wet the top layer of soil above and around the plant using a watering can with small holes. Then you can limit yourself to the norm of 0.5-1.0 liters per peony. No watering the plant from above!

These photos show the treatment of pions for gray rot disease:

Fighting peonies root rot

Root rot. Peonies are also affected by pathogenic fungi from the genera Fusarium, Sclerotinia, Rhizoctonia, Phytophtora. According to my observations, the disease is rare and it is quite difficult to distinguish between different rots. Outwardly, the disease manifests itself in the sudden blackening of the stems and their withering in the middle of summer. The dug out roots look brownish, softened to mucus, emit bad smell. The affected bush is dug up and destroyed.

The causes that provoke the disease are the same as those of botrytis: wet weather, flooding of the site with melt and rainwater, dense plantings, unventilated areas, acidic soils and re-planting in a place previously occupied by peonies.

Control measures:

• use of healthy planting material;
• correct fit;
• the use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and trace elements;
• for the treatment of this disease of pions, it is necessary to use fungicidal preparations: copper sulphate, Homa, foundationazole (0.2%) and others indicated in the table.

Treatment of peonies from rust and spots

Rust - Cronartium flaccidum (Alb. & Schw.) Wint. The disease manifests itself in the summer, usually after. Brown or purple spots become visible on the upper side of the leaves, orange-brown on the underside. Later, the leaves dry up and curl. The stems appear unaffected. The host of the infectious agent is Scots pine. Control measures:

• collection and burning of diseased leaves;
• spraying (wetting) the leaves with fungicidal preparations, the same as for gray rot. As a means of holding the drug on the sheet plates, it is recommended to add a solution of laundry or green soap, a pinch of washing powder.

Spotting. A number of different and difficult to distinguish diseases that affect peonies are known. They cause premature death of leaves and stems. Diseases actively develop at high humidity and temperature. Pathogenic fungi survive on plant debris. Control measures:

• collection and burning of affected leaves and stems;
• spraying the entire plant with fungicidal preparations, as is the case with rust;
• thorough cleaning in the fall and burning of plant residues of peonies.

Mosaic peony disease: photo and video of the fight against it

Annular mosaic virus (Ringsort virus) outwardly manifested in the summer after the growth of the stems, before flowering. Symptoms depend on the variety and its species. Most often, rings, half rings and stripes appear on the leaves, yellow or lighter than the main color of the leaf plate. The rest of the plant does not look oppressed, blooms normally. The disease is spread by cutting flowers in summer and stems in autumn, as well as insects sucking plant juice, in particular aphids. The disease is poorly understood and behaves rather mysteriously: it can disappear on the plant, and then reappear after a few years. Opinions on control measures are very contradictory: from the immediate destruction of the plant at the slightest manifestation of the disease to the option "do not touch the plant even when it is completely infected." It is suggested that the disease in a latent form exists in many varietal peonies, outwardly not manifesting itself for many years. Control measures. Starting from the moment of regrowth, carefully monitor the foliage of peonies. Usually, signs of the disease appear before the flowering of the bush, initially on only a few stems of the plant, the leaves of the remaining stems remain normally colored. The affected stems must be removed without residue (unscrewed), sprinkle the wounds with ash. Cut flowers and stems from the affected plant with a separate knife and burn. It often happens that in the future traces of the disease do not appear. If next year the plant is also affected by the Ring Mosaic Virus is insignificant, repeat the above procedure. See how the fight against peony disease is carried out in these photos:

If the disease does not disappear, but has captured most of the plant, it is dug up and destroyed. In all cases, if the appearance of a disease was noted on a peony at least once, in the future, when working with it, it is necessary to use a separate tool. Avoid disease-prone varieties. The Peony Disease video shows the most effective measures disease control:

Below is how to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies.

How to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies

Ants. Often these insects are considered pests of peonies. They refer to the fact that ants suck the juice from the buds and, having settled under the peony, destroy the plant. But many pinologists believe that if there is harm from ants, then it is quite small. During the budding period, ants feast on nectar, which is located on the bud. If it annoys you, wash the buds warm water. However, in last years a new population of ants has appeared, which settle on the buds and severely deplete them, preventing flowering. To get rid of ants on peonies as quickly as possible, you need to spray the buds with a solution of fufanol. As for the settlement of ants under the peony, this means that the plant is seriously sick and very rotten. And ants are not the cause, but a clear signal of trouble. Ants do not settle under a healthy peony. We'll have to dig up such a plant and sort it out on the spot.

Preparations for the treatment of peonies in spring and summer from diseases and pests

From the table below, you will learn, Next, you will learn how to process peonies in spring and summer from diseases and pests. Preparations for combating diseases and pests of peonies

A drug	Diseases and pests of peonies	Condition and term of processing	Processing method	Application rate
Copper oxychloride (HOM)	Botrytis, root rot	With the manifestation of symptoms of botrytis; with the appearance of root rot	Watering under the base of the bush	0.5% solution with repeat treatment after 10 days
blue vitriol	Botrytis	When symptoms of botrytis appear	Watering under the base of the bush; spraying the plant	0.5% solution (no more!) with repetition after 10 days
Alirin	Root and root rot, late blight	Before boarding	Introduction into the planting hole and 2-3 times watering during the growing season	1 tablet / 1 liter of water
	Powdery mildew, late blight, anthracosis, septoria, gray rot	During the growing season	Spraying (2-3 times) until the symptoms of the disease disappear	2-3 tablets / 1 liter of water. Effective at temperatures above 7 °C
Maksim	Gray rot, root rot	Before boarding	Soaking delenok (for 30 minutes)	2 ml/2 l water
		During the growing season	Watering the soil	2 ml / 1 l of water
Fitosporin M	Fungal and bacterial diseases: rot, rust, powdery mildew	Before boarding	Soaking delenok, tillage	10 drops / 200 ml water
		During the growing season	spraying	20 drops / 200 ml water
	Powdery mildew, spotting, botrytis	Before boarding	tillage	3-5 g / 1 l of water
		During the growing season	spraying	1 -3 g / 1 l of water
	Root and root rot, late blight	Before boarding	tillage	1 tab./l l of water
	Bacterial spotting, late blight, powdery mildew, rot	During the growing season		2 tablets / 10 l of water
			Preventive spraying before and after flowering	2 tablets/l l of water
	fungal diseases	At the beginning of the growing season	Preventive double spraying	2-4 ml/10 l of water
		With a severe injury	spraying	10 ml/10 l water
	Rust, powdery mildew, black spot, rot	During the growing season	spraying	Prevention 5 ml/10 l of water
			Leaf processing on both sides	10 ml/10 l water
	insect pests In contact with

I have been making peonies for over forty years. Back in the 80s, he acquired a collection of the most beautiful exhibition pieces for that time. But since I bought it, I have found signs of viral infections and all kinds of fungal infections on many of my peonies. I had to learn how to cope with these diseases. None of my varieties died and did not degenerate. And until now, early terry burgundy hybrids, chic semi-double pink varieties, luxurious late pink and white peonies and very beautiful Japanese ornamental varieties are blooming on the site.

The main enemy must be known by sight. It's a virus

The most formidable enemy of peonies is viruses. In 90% of cases, you get these diseases by purchasing low-quality planting material. But even if you purchased a healthy peony root from a nursery, aphids and other sucking insects will carry the virus from neighboring diseased plants. And after 3-5 years, you will see discolored half-rings and stripes on the leaves of your new products, and after a couple of years, weakened plants will suffer from many fungal diseases.

Even if there are no viruses anywhere on the acquired peonies, they can be found on weeds, on cucumbers, potatoes, peppers, strawberries, and raspberries. And there are always sucking insects in your garden.

What viruses are found on peonies?

Fortunately for us, not all varieties of peonies react to the virus with the development of a serious illness, such as, for example, a tulip or gladiolus. Most of the old varieties do not show external signs of the disease at all, but modern American early terry hybrids are seriously ill and quickly die from the attached pathogenic fungi. However, with good agricultural technology and protection against fungal diseases, any variety can beautifully bloom indefinitely.

As a rule, viral diseases in pions are rarely caused by any one pathogen, usually a mixed infection occurs. In botanical gardens, they are now easily determined by laboratory methods. Fans do not need to know this, but for the breadth of my horizons, I will list the main viruses.

So, for example, the bean yellow mosaic virus (BYMV) was found on flowers with signs of variegation; on specimens with symptoms of leaf overgrowth - cucumber mosaic virus (CMV), cucumber mosaic virus (ArMV), barley yellow dwarfism (BYDV). Narcissus mosaic virus and Tomato aspermy virus were detected on individual plants with signs of small confluent spotting on the leaves. In most cases, the complex infection included TAV, CMV, ArMV, CarMV (Carnation mottle virus), TMV (Tobacco mosaic virus) in various combinations.

Rattle virus is the main scourge of our peonies

Almost always, the first virus that infects our peonies is Tobacco rattle virus, which was formerly known as peony ring spot virus.

Any gardener can see the symptoms of a lesion if he carefully looks at his plants in May-June. On the leaves between the veins appear rings and half rings, stripes various shapes and color - from light green, greenish yellow to bright yellow. They may coalesce and develop a characteristic marbled or linear pattern on the leaves.

The severity of the virus infection depends on the variety.

My whimsical peonies of the American early terry hybrid Red Charm have been affected by viruses all since the moment of purchase - for 40 years now. And nothing! No other variety gives me a more lush, bright early market cut.

This variety has been requested by many gardeners. Despite warnings, they stop caring for him like a capricious, sickly child. Planted next to raspberries, strawberries; do not rejuvenate the bushes, dividing them and transplanting them to a new place every 3 years; do not spray for prevention against aphids and fungi. It takes 3-5 years, and this variety dies in almost everyone.

The leaves are variegated, but it blooms chic. Here are his flowers close-up:

What fungi affect peonies?

Of the fungal diseases on the peony, gray rot, rust and various spots are common.

Gray rot

Pathogens - Botrytis cinerea, B. paeoniae. Usually in the spring, immediately after the growth of young shoots, brown spots appear at their base, then the stems rot in this place, the gardener can see a gray coating, and small black dots of the mycelium appear on the rotting tissues. The stems wither, and subsequently break and fall. Sometimes rotting occurs already 10–12 cm above the base.

When the leaves are damaged, large brown spots appear, which gradually dry out in dry weather, and in conditions of high humidity become covered with a gray coating and rot. During the budding period, the same can be observed on the buds. Small buds turn black, dry out or rot, while larger buds turn brown and bloom poorly.

The disease develops very quickly, with a strong defeat, the bushes fall apart, the stems fall and dry out. The fungus persists on plant debris and in the rhizomes of peonies, causing them to rot, spreads during rain and spread by ants.

Cold rainy weather in spring and summer, as well as sudden changes in air temperature, contribute to the active development of the disease. The rapid course of the disease is noted on damp, clay soils and when the site is waterlogged, as well as on thickened, poorly ventilated plantings.

In general, the development of the disease is promoted by high humidity, excess nitrogen in the soil and shading of plants. Early varieties and especially hybrids are more affected than others.

Rust

Cronartium flaccidum. This disease occurs in all zones, from the northwest to the Crimea. The first signs of the disease are observed in mid-summer, shortly after flowering. On the upper side of the leaves, brown, yellowish-brown or brown spots with a purple tint appear, sometimes surrounded by a brown border. On the underside, small yellowish-brown, orange pads are formed, containing spores of the fungus, which are easily carried by the wind, infecting new plants. At the end of summer, yellowish-brown, horn-shaped curved columns appear among the pads of uredospores, completely covering the spots on the underside of the leaves, which curl and dry. Under favorable conditions, the disease can spread in 2-3 days, affecting peonies over large areas.

In autumn, spores infect pine, the intermediate host of the fungus. These trees can become a perennial source of infection.

The development of the disease is favored by damp, warm weather. Under such conditions, the pathogen spreads intensively, already in July causing the leaves to dry out and shortening the growing season, which weakens the plants and adversely affects winter hardiness and flowering the next year.

Cladosporiosis, or brown spot

Cladosporium paeoniae. The disease usually manifests itself in the first half of summer, occurs more often in the southern part of Russia. Large brown, brown or dark purple spots form on the leaves, which gradually grow, merge and can cover the entire plate. Over time, the spots darken and the leaves look burnt. In wet weather, a dark gray, smoky coating of sporulation of the fungus appears on their underside. Sometimes stems, buds and flowers are affected.

On young shoots, elongated reddish-brown spots usually form, then the stem darkens and becomes covered with a smoky coating, the buds turn brown, and the petals crumble. Fungal conidia overwinter on fallen leaves.

Septoria, or brown spot

Septoria macrospora. Leaves and stems are affected. The first signs of the disease appear in June-July on the leaves: brown and yellowish-brown rounded or elongated spots form on both sides with a lighter middle and a dark purple border. Gradually, the spots merge and acquire a light brown color with an ash-gray tint.

The disease first appears on lower leaves, then spreads up the stem. With a strong lesion, the leaves dry out completely, but may not fall off for a long time. The disease weakens the plants and adversely affects the winter hardiness and flowering of peonies next year.

root rot

The causative agents can be fungi of the genera Fusarium, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia, Sclerotinia. They cause rotting of roots, stems, cuttings and death of plants. The disease is common in all zones and is detected when transplanting or propagating a bush by division. The affected areas of the roots and rhizomes turn brown, soften, rot and die. With increased humidity, a whitish, grayish or pinkish coating is formed. The source of infection is the soil and infected rhizomes. Usually weakened plants, cuttings and bushes separated during transplantation fall ill. contribute to the development of the disease high humidity and high acidity of the soil.

Peony pests

I'll start with the pleasant: peonies have much fewer pests than diseases, and they do not bring much damage in a well-groomed garden. Caterpillars of scoop butterflies gnaw out buds from plants planted in shade or partial shade. Bronze beetles, gall nematodes and ants can also annoy the grower.

Bronze beetles

Everyone has seen these beautiful shiny beetles. Petals, stamens and pistils of flowers of any plantings serve as food for bronzes. Beetles love light-colored flowers with a strong smell. I find them every spring - first on lilacs, then on irises and on early peonies.

Gall nematodes

They settle in the roots of peonies, causing knotty swellings. After the roots rot, they move to new peonies growing nearby.

sod ant

Everyone saw him: the body of the ant is reddish-yellow, 4-7 mm long, it feeds on the sweet secretions of buds and eats away the petals.

Fight against viruses

There is no cure for viruses. Every spring I look through my seedlings of peonies and mark these bushes when variegation appears. It's better to burn them.

If the variety is very valuable to me, in the fall I plant it away from the main plantings with peonies. At the same time, I divide it into small divisions with 1-2 kidneys. I choose the strongest sprouts and leave a small, but the healthiest section of the roots. I provide good agricultural technology.

If a diseased peony is transplanted in this way every two years, carrying out clonal selection of the most healthy parts of the root, then the peony is freed from rot, and sometimes from viruses.

Capricious hybrid Diana Parks I don't get sick

Fight against fungal diseases

It is difficult to fight the most dangerous botrytis, but it is possible. In early spring, when planting capricious American hybrids, I rake the ground over a peony bush, expose the tops of awakening buds and treat with a solution of fungicides. Then I mulch the bush with a layer of fresh sand, without organic matter. I alternate Fundazol, Vitaros and Skor. I carry out three treatments: in April, at the beginning and at the end of May.

From rust and other fungi, the same drugs that I wrote about in an article about gladioli help. If there are few fungal diseases, I try not to spray the garden with fungicides. If the variety is prone to damage fungal diseases, then I prophylactically spray it with Skorom or Horus in May, and at the end of summer with Ridomil Gold.

But in the prevention of diseases, organic farming helps me. I never use fresh manure and fresh grass in peony plantings; I mulch every fall with only old aged compost. Top dressing complex mineral fertilizers for peonies I do it strictly locally and never abuse nitrogen fertilizers. And more - regularly; beneficial fungi and aerobic bacteria suppress putrefactive microorganisms well.

In mid-August, we cut off all the leaves of peonies and lay them in a compost heap for several years for complete disinfection. The result of all these measures is healthy plants, magnificent flowers.

Is it worth it to rush to cut and cover peonies for the winter? How will this affect the health and further flowering of the bush? and Ito hybrids are prepared for overwintering differently than. The aerial part of herbaceous peonies dies off by winter, but the plant continues to live. Our task is to create optimal conditions to save it.

In dry autumn, it is possible to cut the peony stems as they die off.

Timing of pruning herbaceous peonies

Herbaceous peony - perennial flowering plant, whose shoots and leaves die off in autumn. In some bushes, the aerial part turns yellow and droops, in others it dries up, maintaining an upright position for some time. Only then do I start trimming. Of course, we are talking about healthy, not sick peonies.

The shoot of a young grassy peony wilted after the first autumn frost

The time of pruning the stems of herbaceous peonies depends on the specific climatic conditions. This is either the end of September or the beginning of November, it all depends on the weather. There were years when in the Moscow region in the first days of October the rivers froze and snowdrifts appeared. In other years, and re-bloomed in November. In mid-October 2016, we tried to bloom lilac bushes. The average pruning time for herbaceous peonies is mid-October, if there were no frosts before.

early pruning. Herbaceous peonies have two waves of root formation: spring (April-May) and summer-autumn (August-September). Consequently, too early pruning dates (in early September) do not allow the rhizome to accumulate nutrients coming from foliage. This leads to the fact that a weakened perennial plant is vulnerable in winter. Such a plant will bloom worse. Premature autumn pruning shortens the period of preparing a peony for wintering.

It is clearly seen what early pruning and warming of a grassy peony bush leads to during a long rainy autumn

Late pruning. Another danger lies in wait for the peony with a belated pruning of the aerial part of the bush. Especially in cold rainy autumn when dried stems and leaves quickly rot. This can cause damage to the rhizome.

When pruning, I leave low (2-3 cm) stumps. They will mark the place of growth of the bush, protect the buds, but will not interfere with the spring growth of shoots.

After pruning with my hands, I collect all the plant debris, and then loosen the soil around the bush and superficially.

Shelter for the winter of herbaceous peonies

Zoned herbaceous peonies are able to endure winter hardships, but you still need to cover them for the winter. Without this, in a frosty snowless period, freezing of the renewal buds and part of the rhizome is likely. In open areas of the plots, a strong wind sweeps the snow, leaving the ground “black”. Mulching the soil at least 10 cm high reduces the risk of freezing.

In autumn, it often rains and sleet. With a herbaceous peony with insufficiently rotted manure or undecomposed grass and leaves, stumps of stems and rhizomes may rot.

I insulate my peonies with a mixture of neutral peat moss, sand and earth. I buy deoxidized peat in large orange packages at the nearest garden centers. You can get by with well-decomposed loose compost or loose garden soil. Approximate volume - a bucket of 8 - 10 liters for each bush of a grassy peony.

Before I cover the growth site of an adult peony with soil mixture, I pour a shovel of sand on the ground. For young bushes, one scoop is enough. Such a sand pad is useful not only for, but also for many rhizomes. It is not worth warming peonies with sand alone, because. it doesn't hold heat well.

Ito hybrids of peonies

Some flower growers grow and bloom Ito hybrids of medium-late varieties. Early varieties are less common. When pruning these perennials, you have to take into account a number of features. Strong bushes are not afraid of autumn frosts. In autumn, their foliage, similar to the leaves of tree-like peonies, is painted in bright colors, decorating the empty area. It often lasts until the first snow.

Ito hybrids are pruned at a later date than herbaceous ones. When pruning Ito hybrids, it is taken into account that some of the numerous renewal buds are on the stem, and some are on the roots. Some of them sit close to the soil level. When removing shoots, small stumps are left (like those of grassy peonies) or they are cut off completely. Above-ground buds can not be protected: in the spring, new flowering shoots will rise from underground buds. It is important not to damage the tips of the basal buds of renewal.

There is another pruning option, in which two or three of the strongest stems with several large buds closer to the base are selected. These stems must be cut at a height of 10 - 20 cm. Pruning must be carried out in dry weather. After that, they are insulated. Easiest to use wooden boxes, the inside of which is stuffed with chips or nonwoven fabric. It is better not to take hay and straw so as not to attract. You can wrap the shoots in lutrasil and build a spruce hut over them. Shelter is removed when the flowering of primroses begins. When it gets cold, lutrasil or other light material is used. With this pruning option, the flowering of Ito hybrids occurs a couple of weeks earlier than with the complete removal of the entire aerial part in the fall.

Adult bushes of Ito hybrids are quite winter-hardy. However, sheltering them for the winter is worth at least for the sake of insurance in case of a harsh winter with little snow. The mulching area should be such that under the insulation is the bulk of the roots located in the horizontal plane. The soil mixture should not increase the acidity of the soil, so it is better to add to peat or compost.

Spring awakening of a peony

peonies early varieties wake up first in the spring. The mound of soil mixture, which saved them from freezing, prevents the earth from melting and inhibits the growth of shoots. Therefore, we need to carefully scatter the insulating soil mixture without damaging the fragile buds. During the spring cold snap, you can cover the growing shoots with non-woven material or use another method. For example, throw hay or wood chips on top.

When opening a peony, you cannot create a funnel around it. The soil must be leveled so that excess moisture does not stagnate in the recesses. I construct low sides to retain moisture after watering during the dry period later, when new shoots with foliage grow.

This year, I planted bulbs of deluxe ("Ice Cream") late between young peonies planted in a row. Therefore, she insulated the place of growth of peony bushes not by adding mounds of soil mixture, but immediately mulched the entire landing strip. I hope that this will enable the bulbs to take root before frost and will become additional protection against freezing.

Above grassy peonies and tulip bulbs lies an even layer of loose soil mixture.

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