Comprehensive gardening. Grafting with a bridge will save the tree

in winter and in early spring already available in stores. And imported flowering plants, which can also be grown in the garden, are sold all year round.

Gardeners are faced with the task: before planting in open ground, because before the start of the garden season is still very far away. But once in a warm place, the planting material of garden plants instantly starts to grow.

Warning gardeners to refrain from buying garden plants so early long before planting them in the garden is pointless. Sometimes I can't stop myself from shopping. planting material winter and early spring. Therefore, you need to know how to proceed correctly with purchased garden plants so that they are planted in a permanent place.

I’ll tell you how I keep early purchased seedlings of various garden plants in the apartment until they are planted in a permanent place.

The importance of keeping planting material cool

Let's take a closer look at questions about early purchased rose seedlings and the conditions for their successful landing and good survival in the future.

It is advisable to buy seedlings that went on sale in winter and early spring immediately after bringing them to the store and store them in a cool place. It is important that garden plants lie warm for a minimum of time - otherwise the planting material will begin to grow.

For example, when in a warm and dark place, thin white sprouts grow in rhizomatous perennials in bags of peat. Waxed rose shoots sprout buds quickly, while polyethylene-packed roots suffocate. Therefore, when planting material of garden plants is kept in such adverse conditions, after even a short time sometimes there is no more hope.

rose seedlings

Consider the situation with purchased in winter or early spring planting materialpacked in colorful carton boxes(including those brought from Poland, Hungary, etc.). Their price is very attractive, so it is difficult to resist not to purchase such seedlings of the desired varieties of roses.

If the buds on the purchased rose seedling have not yet begun to swell, then this good sign- it means that with a high probability this rose will take root. But before planting the purchased rose in the garden, it must be preserved.
When kept warm, rose seedlings develop long sprouts. I do not take such roses at all - after all, thin shoots will dry up, and the roots of the seedling do not work yet, and such a greatly weakened plant may die.

The purchased rose seedling soon starts to grow, even if you keep it in the refrigerator for the first time.
At first, you can store the rose in the refrigerator in the package in which it was purchased, but not more than a week. A rose seedling's chances of survival decrease every day, because its packed roots are pinched and covered with peat or sawdust, which can dry out. Therefore, after a short storage in a cold place, the rose has to be planted in a pot.

In the photo: an unpacked rose seedling before planting in a pot

Rose seedlings purchased in cardboard packaging must be unpacked and inspected for roots. They are cut to a minimum without any regret. And there are roots and bent two or three times, so the capacity for planting such a rose seedling may need a large one.
Since I can't resist these early purchases of new roses every year, I have two large pots 22 cm high for planting them (the smaller the diameter of the container, the less land will be needed). Therefore, I buy no more than two seedlings of roses in winter or early spring at the very beginning of the delivery to the store, while the plants have not yet begun to grow.

In autumn, I make and prepare soil mixtures for growing seedlings with a high content of sand. A purchased peat substrate is suitable only as an additive to a self-composed earthen mixture to make it more loose and moisture-capacity.

I plant the unpacked rose in a pot, straightening the roots, in the prepared soil (the volume of the earth should be slightly larger than the bulk of the roots). If the roots are large, then you can bend them a little at the very bottom, so that during planting a clod of earth is preserved in the center. And along the perimeter, protruding roots can then be straightened and trimmed a little.
Gradually I fill the roots of the rose with an earthen mixture, watering and at the same time slightly compacting it near the roots.

From above I pour a layer of dry earth or sand into the pot as mulch. I leave the root collar of the rose seedling on the surface of the earth for the time being - I will deepen it when transplanting a rose from a pot into open ground to a permanent place.

It would be nice to store pots of roses in a cold, frost-free place at a constant temperature, but I don’t have such a large free refrigerator. I take out a planted rose on a glazed balcony and monitor the air temperature. It is undesirable for it to fall below zero, since young buds and sprouts of a rose seedling can freeze slightly, and this will have a bad effect on its survival in the future. If the frosts are kept small, rose shoots can be covered with something ( nonwoven fabric, film) for better preservation. When expected at night very coldy- I bring pots of roses from the balcony to the apartment and put them in the coolest place until the cold weather passes.

It will be possible to plant purchased rose bushes in the garden in spring, as soon as the land allows - this usually happens in mid-April or a little earlier. I bring roses in pots to the country. I plant them carefully, without disturbing the coma of the earth and deepening the root neck as expected - about 2 cm.

Be sure to take care of covering (with any non-woven material, film) for the first time the roses planted in the garden from excessive sun and wind. Return frosts will also probably still be, which is usually for the middle zone; but if there is little greenery, and it freezes over, it's okay. It is better not to remove temporary shelter from planted roses for as long as possible for their maximum adaptation in the garden, especially in difficult weather conditions.

In the photo: rose seedlings are planted in pots; first bloom of a young rose after a few months

Like rose seedlings, I keep all other seedlings of garden plants bought in winter or early spring until planting in the garden; but they are usually easier. They do not need such voluminous pots (except for hydrangeas) - it is enough that their roots are only placed in a pot.

If the rose was bought in a blooming pot, then you can wait a bit - until all the opened flowers have faded (provided that the rose will stand in cool place, And ).
In a pot with a purchased blooming rose there is one transport peat, which dries quickly in an apartment, so you have to water it often.
It is pointless to expect other flowers from such a plant, so you need to pinch off the remaining buds, shake off the peat from the roots and transplant it into land suitable for roses.
I have roses bought in February-March in flowering pots under the usual shelter in the country house. But blooming roses are still better to buy closer to the beginning of the garden season or early autumn, so that immediately.

Gerberas, chrysanthemums, hydrangea

In the same way as with blooming roses in pots, I do with blooming ones bought at the beginning of spring. Then these gerberas bloom all summer in my country house, in the open field.

Flowering in pots, which are also sold in abundance in late winter and early spring, then grow beautifully in the country.
Flowering chrysanthemum bushes purchased in pots will then also need to be transplanted from peat into a suitable substrate in which they will grow before planting in open ground.
Potted chrysanthemums, once in the garden, grow huge bushes by autumn. Because these plants for growing in pots are treated with growth-inhibiting hormones, and in the wild nothing prevents these chrysanthemums from growing. They bloom again in the garden in autumn - and sometimes chrysanthemums in the open field get a completely different color of flowers than when they are bought blooming in a store.
Heat-loving chrysanthemums must be dug up in autumn and cool until spring. And cold-resistant ones need to be covered for the winter, they just won’t overwinter without shelter.

Just like the potted roses and chrysanthemums I bought in winter and early spring, I also grew a seedling from a plant blooming in a pot for my garden. Truth, blue flowers my hydrangeas were only at the very beginning, and in the country it turned from blue into pink. I have not yet tried to water the hydrangea bush with alum to get the blue color of the flowers, because I like it pink too.

Once again, I will clarify that those purchased in pots should not be transplanted into a ready-made peat substrate, which is sold in a store, but into the ground.
For such home plantings, I always have humus prepared in advance from the dacha. I mix it with sand, with a purchased substrate (I try to take packages of "Live Earth"). I definitely steam the earth mixture.

The roots of seedlings when planting in pots should be only slightly sprinkled with earth on top.

Clematis and woody plants

With clematis seedlings, which are bought in winter or early spring long before planting in the garden, they do exactly the same as with blooming roses. For them, too, the main thing is not to flood the plants in the pot. In and in young clematis seedlings, the weakest point is the root neck (the place where the roots of the plant begin to grow), which can rot from waterlogging. Therefore, when planting clematis in a pot, it is better not to cover the root collar with earth at all; and if you fill it up a little, then only with sand.
At the first opportunity, it is necessary to take out a pot with planted clematis on a glazed balcony or loggia (make sure that there are no sub-zero temperatures there).
After planting clematis in the ground, you first need to cover the seedling from the sun and wind.

With purchased garden seedlings, they do exactly the same as with seedlings of roses and clematis.

Seedlings of some types of garden plants are sold with an open root system. If the roots are already wilted, then the dry tips of the roots must be cut before planting (about 0.5 cm, to a healthy tissue), and then soak them in for 3-4 hours (I use root). And then plant the plant in a pot.

Bulbous and bulbous plants

Planting material of gladioli and planted in the spring in the garden when the earth warms up. We have in middle lane the planting period for these plants usually falls at the end of April and the beginning of May. Otherwise, in cold soil, tubers and bulbs of heat-loving plants can rot, and then the plant will be sick for a long time and grow slowly.

After purchase, the planting material of these plants must be kept in a cold, dark place, in which case the refrigerator helps out.
It is undesirable to keep perennial rhizomes and bulbs after purchase in the same bag in the refrigerator for a long time. Peat, in which rhizomes, root tubers and bulbs are located, can dry out; or, conversely, they will rot from excess moisture.
Even for the unpretentious, the scales began to rot after a week of storage in the refrigerator in the package in which the bulbs were bought. It's good that I noticed it in time. She cut off the blackened areas, missed with brilliant green, dried the sections and. Until sprouts appear in pots with lilies, and the bulb is in the ground and is protected from the cold, then weak and short frosts on a glazed balcony are not terrible for plants.

When the sprouts of high-quality lily bulbs stored in the refrigerator reach a length of more than 10 cm, and it takes a long time to plant the plants in the garden, they must also be planted in the ground and the pots exposed to light.
In lilies, the formed supra-bulb roots are important for growth, so this must be taken into account when planting bulbs in a pot. The soil layer above the lily bulb should be at least 5-7 cm.

Corms have a feature: if you break the already grown roots on the bottom of the bulb, then new ones will no longer grow, and this will weaken flowering.

Under gladioli and dahlias, when planting them in the garden, be sure to add them.
demanding on different acidity of the soil, therefore, when planting their bulbs, carefully add wood ash(look at). Remember that some groups of lilies prefer slightly acidic soil (eg Oriental Hybrids) and ash creates an alkaline environment.

When planting plants from pots in the garden, they must be carefully knocked out of the pot with a clod of earth, then they get sick less after transshipment.

dahlias

The heat-loving ones are afraid of frost, and it will be possible to plant them with sprouts in the garden only when it warms up in late April or early May - under shelter with protection from return frosts.

I store the purchased dahlia root tubers in a bag with holes - I keep them in the refrigerator until the buds on the neck begin to swell. And then, too, selected according to the size of each tuber. I moisten the earth and keep dahlias at home in the coolest place.
Such a place in my apartment is a closet in the kitchen under the window. In early February, I just get out of there overwintered after a period of winter dormancy. And then again I fill the cabinet shelves with pots with rhizomes and bulbs planted in winter and early spring, which stand there until mid-March.

Purchased dahlias once began to bloom in my garden very early - simultaneously with the end of May. I must say that there is no beauty in this - flowering dahlias are "lost" against the backdrop of lush flowering of peonies and other flowers of this spring period. Still, we are accustomed to perceive dahlias as summer and autumn flowers of August and September, since dahlias bloom magnificently before the onset of frost. And it is in autumn that the beauty of their inflorescences catches the eye, as there are fewer and fewer flowering plants in the garden. And dahlias seem to us exotic flowers against the background of the yellowing foliage of woody plants.

Caring for potted garden plants

After planting in pots, garden plants should be well shed and put the pots in the coolest place in the apartment. Try to water the plants as little as possible - it's better to let the earth dry out a little than to pour.

If the state of the seedling allows, and the plant has just begun to grow, it is better to keep it longer in cold and dark until planting.
And if there are already leaves on it, then you need to choose a cool and bright place to keep the sprouted plant.

When roses and other plants are kept in an apartment, a malicious pest often appears on them (especially if the rose is in a warm place) -.
As soon as the leaves of the rose bush begin to turn yellow, you need to carefully monitor the rose, wash its stem and leaves with cool water, and carry out preventive treatments against spider mites. Since the tick is very small, when you can already see its web on the plant, it is sometimes too late - it is not always possible to save the affected rose.

It is problematic to spray pest-affected plants in an apartment with chemicals. When it is not very cold outside and there is a glazed balcony or loggia, you can sprinkle the plants there during the day, and bring them into the apartment in the evening. Rose is holding up well. low temperatures(the main thing is that the balcony should not be lower than + 3 ... + 5 degrees).
spider mite in an apartment can harm not only roses, but also all plants located there.

Benefits of planting house grown plants in the garden

When a plant bought in winter or early spring was at home in a pot of earth before planting in the garden, it root system already sufficiently developed and adapted to the land. Therefore, when transshipping a plant from a pot into open ground, the plant only needs to be slightly deepened, and also covered for the first time from the wind and from the hot sun.
In the garden, such seedlings do not get sick after transplantation, they begin to grow and grow stronger almost immediately, and soon they bloom.

Garden plants after planting in the ground have time to prepare well for winter during the garden season.

So, buying garden plants in stores in winter and early spring only makes sense if you are sure that you can save the seedlings before planting in the garden. If there are conditions for keeping these plants, and, most importantly, if there is a desire to care for and grow them. And the question is where

Every day spring is getting closer and closer - at least the calendar one. Both people and nature around are always looking forward to it. But when the perfectly clean, snow-white winter cover comes off, problems are exposed, recovery-related garden after winter. Each owner of a country house should clean up the area after the winter and wake it up after the “winter hibernation”. How to do it right without missing a single important detail and without harming plants weakened after winter?

Leaf and debris removal

After the snow begins to melt, last year's leaves, dry tree branches broken off by heavy snow or gusty winds, and accumulated debris will appear on the surface of the earth. When the earth dries out a little, you need to arm yourself with a rake and remove it all from the territory. personal plot. Let the earth completely dry after this.

Trimming trees and shrubs

At the end of winter or beginning of spring (depending on climatic conditions), the trees are prepared for pruning. If some plants in the garden were sheltered from the winter cold, it is necessary to remove protective layer spruce branches(spruce branches), dismantle structures built specifically to protect plants from snow, remove covering material (burlap, non-woven fabric, etc.) and untie the twine with which the branches were tied. Let the plant take a deep breath.

Tree pruning, along with fertilization and irrigation, is essential element care, allows you to control the growth of the tree, improves the quality of its fruits. best time for pruning is a dormant period when the plant does not bloom and does not bear fruit. Pruning is carried out when the stable temperature does not fall below 2 degrees, otherwise the cuts will turn out uneven, and the bark will begin to break. Each tree is pruned in a special way, depending on its type, variety and age. For example, young apple and pear trees with a spreading and drooping crown are pruned at the bend of the branches, as if directing them upwards. And the compressed crown, on the contrary, tends to expand, cutting in the very depths. To improve the quantity and quality of fruits, fruit branches are thinned out along the periphery.

Remember that excessive pruning can cause excessive thickening of the tree crown. If you are afraid to spoil a tree that has been grown for many years, it is better to contact a specialist. A landscape designer will help you put your yard in order after the winter.

Often, trees are damaged after winter, frost cracks appear on them (cracks in the bark or in the core of the tree in the form of spots on frozen parts of the wood). Frost crackers are covered with garden pitch or a special antibacterial balm - “artificial bark”. With proper care, the negative effects of wintering can be reduced and prevent their occurrence in the future. In early spring, before the buds begin to peck, shrubs can be transplanted. And don't forget to remove any old leaves from them!

Lawn restoration

Winter is a real test, including for your . You can start restoring it even before the snow has completely melted. Using a rake, distribute the snow cover evenly over the entire area to avoid icy lumps (they can crush or damage the grass). You need to loosen the snow carefully, trying not to touch the roots of the plants.

When the snow melts, puddles can form on the lawn. It's time to aerate the lawn - piercing the turf special devices, such as special spiked galoshes or an aerator (gasoline or electric) that pierces the lawn using a shaft with teeth. Depth - about 7 cm. Aeration improves air circulation in the soil, allows the roots to drink melt water and helps to avoid diseases associated with the accumulation carbon dioxide in top layer soil. By the way, during this period it is better to avoid moving on the lawn, because potholes and marks are easily formed on it.

Another mandatory and useful procedure is combing the lawn - i.e. cleaning of last year's dry grass, moss and leaves overwintered under the snow. The surface of the lawn is carefully worked with a fan rake, allowing you to get rid of unnecessary litter and improve air circulation for plant roots. For large areas lawn, mechanical looseners can be used.

If “bald spots” appear in some places, it is necessary to carry out oversowing, and preferably with the same seed composition. They are mixed with dry sand and sown on bare areas. You can also use ready-made lawn in rolls (turf).

If you correctly carry out all the necessary measures to restore the suburban area after the winter, it will delight you with magnificent views all season long!

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Healthy, blooming garden, which brings a rich harvest, largely depends on proper, high-quality care, especially in spring period. The time of awakening of all living things is important and troublesome for gardeners. Perform all work depending on weather conditions and climate zone.

First work in the garden

Work in the garden begins with the release of planting branches from melted snow, if at the end of winter there was an abundance of precipitation. From the spring sun, the snow becomes loose and heavy, it can easily break thin branches. To avoid this, shake it off. If the branches have already sagged and fallen, build supports to support them.

The following advice is relevant for sloped areas. So that the melt water lingers, and the flood does not erode the soil, build shafts of snow across the slope.

Stock up on melt water - it is rich in useful trace elements. To do this, the containers must be filled with snow and added as it melts.

With the advent of spring, not only vegetation wakes up - rodents and pests are ready to become more active. Inspect existing bait poisons, prepare new ones if necessary.

The snow has melted - start cleaning the garden. Collect old leaves and other debris, get rid of weeds if they have appeared.

Whitewashing - protection of horticultural crops

How to whitewash trees

Even before the snow has completely melted and the trees “wake up”, choose a dry day and whitewash.

Before work, prepare trees with damage: clean the trunk with a brush, remove dead bark, at the same time pests that have overwintered and survived in it will be destroyed. Growths, lichens are also cleaned off. Cover all open cracks with garden pitch. Whitewash after the treated areas are completely dry.

Early whitewashing - a double benefit for the tree:

It will prevent burns that can appear on the bark from bright spring rays, so only white is used.
Protects the tree trunk from insect pests.

Which solution to apply is up to you. acrylic paint rains are not terrible - this whitewash is the most resistant. You can use special store solutions and self-prepared ones, with the addition of any adhesive.

How to whitewash fruit trees

The most common is whitewashing with lime:

2.5 kg of lime is diluted per bucket of water;
half a liter of copper sulfate;
wood glue is added - 200 grams, so that the solution on the tree lasts longer.

Whitewash based on manure and lime:

1 kg of lime and manure;
200 grams of copper sulfate;
mix these components in 8 liters of water, leave for about 2 hours.

Clay-based whitewash solution:

mix 1 kg of oily clay in 10 liters of water;
2 kg of slaked lime;
a shovel of cow dung;
250 grams of copper sulfate.

Leave for 2 hours Whiten young trees with a mixture based on chalk, under such a solution the bark will breathe freely.

Spraying trees and shrubs in the garden

Garden care in the spring is a mandatory prevention of the appearance of pests and the fight against diseases.

When to Treat Trees

Processing fruit crops use special preparations at least 3 times:

before vegetation (bud swelling);
before flowering;
7-10 days after flowering.

How to spray fruit trees

Early spraying of trees with Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol, urea, (urea) will save plants from many problems. There are other means of processing: chemical, combined, but the above are effective and one of the most budgetary. Which drug to choose, the gardener decides.

Start the first treatment when the temperature has reached 5 °C. During this period, spraying will destroy successfully overwintered pests.
The use of special preparations before flowering will help protect the buds, cope with pest larvae and fungal diseases.
The next treatment is needed to destroy the emerging insects and fruit rot.

Remember that it is not recommended to spray trees during flowering.

tree nutrition

Garden maintenance includes spring top dressing trees, contributing to the nutrition and improvement of soil quality. Everything necessary elements for growth, plants receive at the expense of mineral fertilizers so don't forget about them every year. Organic: compost, peat, manure is enough to use once every 2-3 years. Usually, in the spring, the soil is fed with nitrogen, and in the fall, manure, phosphorus, and potassium are used.

Timing of fertilizer application

Apply the first fertilizer in March. Mineral mixtures dissolve well, they can be sprinkled on the snow. Together with melt water, they are absorbed into the ground and useful material. On a plot with a slope, such top dressing will not be effective: it will be carried away by melt water.

Another option is relevant for all fruit and berry crops: 2/3 doses nitrogen fertilizers add when you are digging near-stem circles.

Dosage of organic and mineral fertilizers for the garden

Be attentive to the process of fertilizing: fruit-bearing trees will be negatively affected by both a lack and an excess of minerals. For example, the irregularity of such a useful element as nitrogen can affect frost resistance and overall plant growth.

More accurate fertilizer application data is shown in the table.

Table 1. Dose of fertilizer application per fruit tree

Planting year	Diameter trunk circle, m	organic fertilizers, kg	Mineral fertilizers, g
Planting year	Diameter trunk circle, m	organic fertilizers, kg	Nitrogen	Phosphorus	Potassium
2nd	2,0	6	10	10	15
3, 4th	2,5	10	20	20	30
5th, 6th	3,0	15	30	30	45
7th, 8th	3,5	20	60	40	60
9th, 10th	4,0	25	75	50	75
11th, 12th	5,0	40	120	80	150

In addition to mineral fertilizers for top dressing, use organic matter: manure and compost. Decayed manure improves soil properties. Clay in structure becomes less viscous, and light, free-flowing increase their moisture capacity. Organic fertilizers not only have a positive effect on the soil, but also nourish with useful elements.
Valentina Kravchenko, expert

How to properly fertilize plants

Do not feed young plants, start this useful process from the second year of the trees' life.

When applying fertilizer, consider the following factors:

plants better absorb the liquid form of fertilizers;
do not fertilize close to the trunk: roots sucking nutrients, located along the perimeter of the branches;
apply fertilizer in the evening or on a cloudy day;
so that the roots do not get burned, first moisten the soil, only then apply liquid fertilizers;
keep the earth near the tree in a loose state, so the plant “breathes” better;
after applying dry fertilizer, water the near-stem area along with top dressing.

Pruning - effective sanitary cleaning

Trees and shrubs that are not pruned during their growth look worse, age faster, and their yield decreases.

When to prune fruit trees

Finish all pruning work before the buds begin to swell. Before performing the procedure, wait until the temperature column drops to minus 5 °C, and night frosts to minus 10 °C will not return.

During pruning, material is also collected for subsequent vaccination. fruit trees. Selected shoots are cut, grafted immediately or stored in a dark, cool place until sap flow occurs.

The Basics of Successful Pruning of Garden Plants

start pruning before the start of sap flow;
first of all, free the tree from shoots damaged during cold weather, this is an extra burden that only hinders the development of the plant;
remove dry and broken branches;
cover the cuts with garden pitch if branches with a diameter of more than 15 cm are cut;
first cultivate fruit-bearing plants, and young growth 10-15 days later.

Care and planting seedlings

Inspection and treatment of trees in spring

If the frosts have receded, remove the heaters from the stems. Inspect the trees to see if they are intact, if rodents have reached them.

If there is an injury, heal the tree:

Clean the bark spoiled by mice and treat with iron sulphate (for this, a 5% solution is taken), then cover with garden pitch.
The tree that the hares have reached receives more serious damage. In this case, "bridge" vaccinations are used.

Planting seedlings in spring

Planting work in the garden in the spring, start as soon as the snow recedes, 2 weeks before the growing season. Until the trees “woke up”, planting will be more efficient.

Check the soil so that it is not frozen; seedlings will not survive in such soil.
Dip the roots of the tree in a clay mash, this will increase the adhesion of the bottom of the tree to the ground.
Prepare pits for new plants in the fall, then you can fill them with fertilizers.
If fertilizers were not applied before winter, then at the bottom of the pit where you plant the tree, fill in the rotted manure. Apply a nitrogen-based fertilizer some time after planting.

Qualitatively carried out spring care will affect how trees and shrubs will be prepared for the new season. A responsible approach to work in the garden will ensure a high result - a well-groomed, beautiful, healthy, fruitful garden.

As soon as spring begins to smell in the air, I want to go out into the garden and do something useful, like clean up.

It hurts the eyes, not too aesthetic shelter under which the plants survived the winter. Hands reach out to get rid of them. How to "undress" the plants, so as not to make mistakes?

Alas, the universal recipe for gardeners does not exist. This is a risky business, a mistake can lead to the death of the plant. If you open early, the plants will freeze, if you are late, they will warm up.

Much depends on the weather, the climatic features of your area and the microclimate of your site, the type of shelter, the types of sheltered plants.

So let's take a closer look at the material of the site question: When to remove shelters from plants in spring?

General rules for getting rid of plants from shelters

First of all, the strategy and tactics of getting rid of shelters depends on the purpose for which we covered the plants. late autumn. Shelters serve two different purposes, although often both at the same time - to protect against winter cold, sunburn and physiological desiccation.

So, we focus on the weather and proceed to “undress” the plants, when the night frosts weaken, the snow completely melts and a positive temperature is established. In the middle lane, this happens around the beginning - middle of April, the air temperature at this time is set at around 5 -10 ° C.

Removing shelters is a big stress for plants. To reduce it, we accustom the plants in advance to the fact that they will have to “walk” without clothes, we begin to harden them - to ventilate the shelters at a positive daytime air temperature, and in case of a cold snap we close again.

Ventilation helps reduce humidity, but it will not replace drainage - if the plants are in a puddle, you will have to take a shovel and make grooves to drain melt water. Excess moisture is the main spring danger. Plants can die from dampness, and a humid environment is favorable for the development of infections.

Shelters are removed gradually, layer by layer, stretching the procedure for several days. It is better to choose a cloudy day without precipitation and wind, or to remove shelters from the plant in the evening - this way we will smooth out fluctuations in illumination, and it will be easier for plants to adapt.

For work, we need gloves (when working with roses, it is better to use special ones - dense ones), a wheelbarrow, a pitchfork, a rake (regular and fan). Some plants may need "first aid" - therefore, we keep pruners and garden pitch or similar compounds on hand.

If the sun

The dangerous period for evergreens is March and early April. At this time, the sun shines brightly in spring, and the snow reflects the sun's rays, many times increasing their negative impact.

Most evergreens are not as afraid of frost as spring sunburn. Many conifers, rhododendrons, mahonia and evergreen perennials fall into this group.

Properly chosen landing site (with natural shading from aggressive midday rays and competent agricultural technology significantly reduce the risk of damage.

It should be remembered that susceptibility to sunburn depends to a large extent on the variety, often the most beautiful varieties more vulnerable. Some species and varieties burn especially badly, for example, gray spruce (Picea glauca) "Conica".

Sunburn is not always immediately noticeable - the plants are vigorous and green, and after a while their outfit acquires a characteristic grayish-brown color and begins to crumble. Wrapped plants receive little light, so you can not remove the shelter abruptly - the plants must rebuild the physiological processes, and this takes time.

On the first day, we untie the top of the shelter, and then remove layer by layer (ideally one layer per day). Even when you have "stripped" the plants completely, make a screen on the south side for a few days to shade from the sun's rays in the middle of the day.

With early removal of shelter, evergreens also suffer from physiological drought: the roots are in cold soil and are still sleeping, and the ground part heated by the sun has already woken up and begun to evaporate moisture. To help the plants, we shade them and water them. warm water(about 50 ° C) so that the roots "earn".

If frost

Roses, clematis and other heat-loving plants, most of which are unstable in a particular climatic zone, shelter from the winter cold. Roses suffer more from damp than from frost. Therefore, take care of the removal of excess melt water, and when a positive air temperature is established, ventilate the shelter, if necessary (if you have a frame air dry shelter, open it from the ends).

After removing the shelter, it is necessary to shade the queen of flowers to avoid sunburn. We do not raise climbing and standard roses and clematis immediately, but when the soil finally thaws.

We rake the soil from the root collar at the very last turn, when the buds begin to swell (after about two weeks) - hilling will protect the root collar of roses in case of an unexpected return of cold weather.

We do this very carefully so as not to damage the awakened kidneys - with a small hoe, a shovel, or just hands in tight gloves. At the same time, we carry out the final spring pruning.

First aid to plants

Immediately after the final removal of shelters, we carry out sanitary pruning of plants. Damaged shoots - frozen, propped up, eaten by rodents, affected by fungi, dry and broken - are cut into a ring or into a kidney to healthy tissue (you can not cut in the middle of the internode - the area to the underlying kidney will still die and can become a hotbed of infection).

We burn the cut parts of plants. We cover thick sections and frost holes (cracks in the bark) with garden pitch or similar compounds.

Pruning clematis should be done with extreme caution - they have very fragile shoots. If you have not cut them since the fall or have forgotten what kind of pruning a particular variety needs, wait until the buds swell and remove all unnecessary.

It is also useful to carry out preventive treatment with fungicides, this is especially true for roses.

What to do next

What to do next depends on the material of the shelter. Reusable shelters (burlap, kraft paper, straw mats, reed rugs, boxes, designer "houses") dry well in the sun and put away until autumn.

Non-woven materials (lutrasil, spunbond and their analogues) can be used to shade open plants and save them from recurrent frosts that can damage buds and young shoots.

The foliage that we used for shelter, most likely, has already begun to rot. So let it rot, but in a compost bin | treat it with bacterial preparations to speed up the process).

Part of the foliage can be left near the plants, embedded in the soil. If you used the shoots of herbaceous plants for shelter, then we send them to the fire along with the bald spruce branches. In this case, do not forget about safety precautions - dry shoots are put into the fire in small portions - they instantly flare up and scatter even from a weak breeze.

If you do not have a specially equipped fire pit, then it is good to adapt old barrel, and use the resulting ash as fertilizer.

Output: - After reading the article, we hope you got an answer to the question: When to remove shelters from plants in spring?

Every gardener faces a challenge every year. spring training garden after winter. Trees and shrubs require inspection, as well as the necessary procedures, so that at the end of summer or early autumn you can get the expected harvest, so we will discuss the main stages of garden preparation, as well as talk about problems and their solutions.

Where to start

In early spring, when the temperature is rapidly approaching zero or above zero, we need to do a lot of work to prepare fruit trees and shrubs. Starting with snow removal. Many crops have brittle shoots, so sticking melting snow, the mass of which is not so small, can damage shoots and young branches. To prevent this from happening, you need to walk around the garden and gently shake off the snow on the ground.

After you have removed the snow from the aboveground parts of the plants, you should examine the skeletal branches of trees and tall shrubs. If some of them are bent, care should be taken to build a support. As it, you can use iron bars welded in the form of the letter “Y”, or find a branch like a slingshot of sufficient length.

If the lower branches are bent, then they can be tied to the upper ones. At the same time, it should be understood that it should be tied to skeletal thick branches that will definitely withstand the mass of a sagging shoot. If a similar problem arose with a small shrub, then for a while all the shoots can be tied up in one bunch. When the snow melts, you can trim, or if everything goes well, the shoot will remain in the position in which you secured it.

Next, we need to take care of site humidity. If your garden is located on a slope, you need to create natural obstacles, otherwise the melt water will descend into the lowlands, and the trees and shrubs will lose the necessary moisture.

Important! Melt water collected in a container will help you save on irrigation. Also, this water is soft and contains trace elements, so it is better to save it.

To prevent this from happening, create small shafts of melting snow across the site. So that the flowing water collides with an obstacle, and does not continue its movement along the slope.

Next, you should make sure that if or appears, you have everything at hand. For this check stocks of poisons and other chemical substances that you used last year to fight uninvited guests. Many of them have a short expiration date, so you can automatically apply an already expired chemical. The effectiveness of such a tool, as you understand, will be close to zero.
After the snow melts, you need to start cleaning the area from plant residues. All leaves, branches, dry grass should be removed, and care should be taken first weeds.

Inspection of fruit and berry crops

After the initial inspection, we proceed to identify possible problems with plants planted in the garden. It is impossible to delay, since the lack of timely intervention will lead to a decrease in yield or death of the crop.

We start with the bark. We examine the shoots and trunk of plants for the presence of scratches, cracks, burns, lack of bark. If there is damage, you need to find out the cause of their occurrence. If they are caused by activities, then various poisons should be prepared in advance. If the problem was provoked by sunburn - we carry out whitewashing.
Cracks may appear on the branches and trunk. It is impossible to leave everything as it is, since a violation of the integrity of the shoot or trunk leads to further damage by pests. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly close the crack. To do this, you should first cut off the dead bark, and then remove the dead wood. If you don't do this and just plug the hole, the dead tissue will begin to decompose, causing rotting. It is necessary to clean dead tissue until living wood and bark appear.

Allow time to dry after cleaning. This will take 1-2 days, after which the "wound" must be treated and closed. Treated with any copper-containing substance, it is best to take or. In the end trouble spot cover with a liquid solution of clay or special means for putty.

Video: cleaning and treating a wound on a fruit tree

We turn to problems with broken or dry shoots. If you notice that some of the shoots on the tree are too dry and do not have live buds, then you need to take care of their removal. Trim dry branches with a hacksaw or pruner. We cut until we see living tissue. The cut must be even. After pruning, we must cover all cuts so that the tree is not hit.

Separately, it is worth talking about what to do with the hollows formed in the trunk. We will solve the problem in the same way as in the case of cracks. First, we clean the hollow from dead tissues, after which we treat it with copper-containing preparations and completely cover it with cement mortar.

Did you know? The oldest garden in the world is Levens Hall, which is located in the north-west of England. The garden was created in the 17th century, and the trees that were planted at the time of foundation still grow in it.

Spring frost protection

Spring frosts are the most big problem, as they are able to destroy the crop at an early stage. They suffer not only small gardens, but also huge landings, from which products are supplied to many stores. Next, we will figure out whether it is possible to do this.

This frost protection technology came to us from the USA. There, farmers purchase special installations that produce fog. It not only reduces visibility, but significantly increases the air temperature, which saves trees from a sharp drop in temperature. Of course, such plants are not cheap, but if you grow especially valuable crops, which will give a lot of expensive products, then it makes sense to purchase a similar installation in order to solve problems with unexpected frosts for ten years.
Garden fumigation. It should be said right away that this method saves only from small frosts. If the temperature drops below -5 °C, then smoking will not help your plants in the garden.

This is done as follows: at a distance of 4 meters from each shrub or tree, a small “hut” is built, which consists of thick logs and thin twigs for ignition, wet foliage or straw is superimposed on top of the “hut”. After you set fire to such a "structure", it will begin to smoke heavily, causing the garden to fill with smoke. Smoke raises the temperature of the air, so the trees do not suffer from frost.

Video: fumigation from frost using grapes as an example

Of course, the site will have to be fumigated for almost 12 hours, since frosts most often occur at night and last until morning or noon. At the same time, fumigation will not bring pleasure to your neighbors, and especially shy ones can call the fire department. For this reason, fires should be used with caution, especially after the final melting of the snow.

Important! Smoke fires can be replaced with smoke bombs, which can also slightly increase the air temperature.

Bonfires. An open source of fire can raise the temperature, however, as you understand, the same source can cause a lot of problems, because the trees themselves can suffer from fires if flames reach them. At high temperatures, branches and foliage dry out quickly, after which they begin to burn - as a result, you can simply burn your entire garden.
It makes sense to kindle fires only if you have collected a lot of plant debris that has nowhere to go. Then you can dispose of the garbage, and at the same time warm the air a little. At the same time, one should not assume that such a remedy can save from severe frosts, especially in the presence of wind.

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs

Pruning is carried out only before the start of sap flow, that is, until the buds swell. If pruning is carried out later, the tree will suffer greatly, and tree sap will begin to stand out at the cut points. It would seem that everything is clear, there are no problems, however, sap flow begins at different times even in the same region, so you need to know exactly when to prune so as not to cut the plants when the first unformed leaves begin to appear on them.

It is also worth noting that sap flow in some cultures may begin earlier, while in others - later, which causes serious difficulties in the case of working with a large garden.

What is pruning for?

To form the crown of a young plant.
To remove old shoots that do not give a good harvest.
To remove diseased branches that were not cut at the first inspection.

As for the differences in pruning young and old trees.

Young trees need crown formation, as they need to be given the desired look every year in order to eventually get mature tree with a beautiful and easy-to-pick crown.

Mature and old trees need, as their crown has already formed. Annually, old 2-3-year-old shoots are removed, which do not bear fruit well and cause thickening of the crown. As a result, the plant accelerates growth and the formation of new shoots, on which more buds are tied, and as a result, more fruits are formed.

Separately, it should be said that the most productive are those branches that move to the sides. Vertical shoots do not have good yields, and hanging shoots do not really bear fruit at all. This is due to the fact that horizontal branches receive more sunlight, so more fruits ripen on them, which have a better taste.

tree pruning

Did you know? The longest life expectancy can boast familiar to us garden trees. Homemade can live up to 120 years, and many varieties will grow for 2-3 centuries. At the same time, the life expectancy of the same is only 20 years.

We start by removing all the old shoots in early spring. They will die anyway, so we don't need them. Removal should be carried out before the appearance of young branches. During the entire growing season, you need to shorten the upper part of the shoots, since the berries are formed on side branches, and the growth of the main branches upwards reduces the yield. Pinching is carried out after the shoots have reached a length of 90 cm.
Pruning is also carried out if the shoots lie on the ground under the weight of leaves and berries. In this case, the main shoot should be shortened, otherwise the product will begin to rot after contact with the soil.

Top dressing of horticultural crops

We turn to an important topic, which concerns the feeding of plants in the garden. We will talk about all crops, so we will consider those fertilizers that both and shrubs need. various kinds and varieties.