How to install flexible shingles with your own hands. How to install soft tiles

Installation of shingles consists of several basic rules, which will be described in this section.

Roofing materials

Required materials for roofing:

• lining carpet;
• ordinary tiles;
• metal strips;
• bituminous glue;
• valley carpet;
• ridge-eaves tile;
• roofing nails;
• seals of conclusions;
• screws.

Installation instructions for flexible bitumen shingles

Roofing is the protection of a building from water, wind and snow, so it should be remembered that the roof should be covered as tightly as possible.

Before installing soft tiles, a standard continuous roof sheathing is made. On top of the rafters, moisture-resistant sheets of plywood or OSB are laid as tightly as possible, in a continuous layer and evenly, which are fixed with nails. The base for the installation of tiles can be made in two ways:

• either an edged board is taken into work;
• or moisture resistant OSB or plywood.

The joints between the elements and the gap between the plates or boards should be no more than 4 mm and the take-off in height cannot be more than 2 mm, and the material itself should be clean and dry.

Required tools

Tools that you may need when installing the roof:

• conventional or pneumatic hammer;
• putty knife;
• roofing knife;
• scissors for metal;
• roulette.

Installation of the lathing

This is a very important part of roofing work as it guarantees a durable and perfect appearance after laying the plastic material.

How to lay slabs or boards in a crate? Work begins from the bottom up, and the material is laid first in a continuous strip at the lower edge of the roof, and then row by row to the ridge, while observing the permissible gaps.

On this basis, working with shingles becomes safe, and holes are made for the outlets of the exhaust systems and the exhaust elements are sealed.

Laying underlay carpet

How to cover the roof with underlayment? The underlay carpet is used as an additional protection against moisture. In addition, the building can overwinter under this material if weather conditions do not allow covering the roof with flexible tiles.

Laying the underlay carpet is a prerequisite for high-quality installation and tightness of the roof; it can be installed both horizontally and vertically, with an overlap of 10 cm of canvases on top of each other.

In the case of horizontal laying, it is worth starting from the bottom up, with an overlap, gluing the edges of each strip of canvas with bituminous glue.

How to lay the underlay carpet? The nuances of styling.

• Before you start rolling out the underlay, cover the valleys with it and coat the edges with bituminous glue.
• Only after covering and fixing the canvases near the valley is it worthwhile to start laying on a flat surface, cutting off the edges of the canvases and carefully gluing them along the width of the overlap.

After installation, at the end of the work with the underlay, the roof has the following cross-sectional structure:

• rafters;
• solid crate;
• lining carpet.

Laying cornice planks

Cornice planks are laid on top of the underlayment

How to lay the cornice planks correctly?

1. Eaves and roof ends are reinforced with eaves. This is done so that the material does not deform due to the influence of temperature.
2. The planks are pre-cut and overlapped by 5 cm, then nailed or screwed in.
3. At the junction, the planks are also fixed with two nails for a more rigid rib of the structure.

Flexible shingles laying technology

Before starting work on laying the tiles, it is necessary to cover all the valleys with a carpet similar in color to the main color of the bituminous tile. The roofing material must be cut close to the edge of the eaves and the edges must be properly glued.

Cornice tiles are laid on the eaves in a flat strip at a distance of 10-20 mm from the edge. There is no need to nail in this strip because there is a self-adhesive layer on the tape. In cold weather, you can slightly warm up the strips with a construction hairdryer to restore the viscosity of the adhesive base.

How to install shingles correctly? The installation of the tiles starts from the edge of the roof slope, over the eaves.

In order for the first line of the tile to lay perfectly evenly, you can drive a small nail into the ends of the roof and pull the construction thread, thereby observing the same distance from the edge along the entire length of the roof, or draw a straight line with chalk for convenience.

It is recommended to print several packages with ordinary tiles, mix the sheets with each other and nail down the ordinary tiles with roofing nails, after removing the protective film, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge of the cornice tiles, above the cutout of the pattern. The overhangs in the next row should overlap the cutouts in the previous row. Cornice tiles are cut onto the skates and overlapped so that the nails are hidden under the next sheet.

The sequence of laying shingles:

• solid crate;
• lining carpet;
• cornice strips;
• cornice tiles
• ordinary flexible shingles;
• skate.

As you can see, knowing the basic rules for laying shingles, it is not difficult to do the installation yourself.

Flexible tile laying. Video

Installation of flexible tiles. Video

$ Installation of flexible shingles. Price

The price of installing flexible shingles depends on how fully the preliminary work on laying the battens, insulating layers, etc. has been carried out. On average, the cost of installation is:

• from 60 to 100 hryvnia in Ukraine;
• from 400 to 700 rubles in Russia.

Soft roofing materials are an excellent alternative to traditional slate and sheet metal. Roofs covered with flexible tiles are distinguished by their stylish appearance and high reliability. But you can only get both if you follow the installation technology. Of course, the easiest way is to hire a team of professional roofers, but you can forget about the budgetary construction of the construction - at best, the work will cost the same amount as building materials. And at the same time, saving is not difficult at all - it is enough to lay the soft roof with your own hands. Today masters with many years of experience will tell you how to do it correctly.

What is a soft roof

Composite, soft or bituminous shingles, shingle roofing, shinglas, roof tiles - all these are the names of the same building material - flexible shingles. Being flat sheets of small size (most often 100x34 cm), the shingles have curly cutouts that divide them into several petals. Laying by displacing one row relative to another gives the same effect that makes the roof look like a tiled one.

Due to the fact that soft tiles are available in a variety of shapes and colors, it is easy to choose the most suitable design option.

Today on sale you can find a soft roof covering with petals of any shape - rhombic, triangular, hexagonal, oval, rectangular, in the form of a wave, etc. In addition, there are a considerable number of color solutions. And yet, despite such a variety, they all have the same layered structure and composition.

The optimal size, modern technology and the use of high-quality materials give shingles a lot of advantages over other roofing materials:

• ease of installation;
• light weight;
• high sound absorption;
• resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as their sudden changes;
• the ability to cover the roofs of the most complex structures;
• resistance to ultraviolet and infrared radiation;
• dielectric capacity;
• resistance to corrosion and bacteria;
• wide range of colors;
• durability - depending on the manufacturer, the service life of bituminous tiles ranges from 20 to 50 years;
• profitability - the amount of waste usually does not exceed 5%;
• maximum water resistance and minimum water absorption - no more than 2%.

In fairness, it should be noted that flexible shingles require additional costs for arranging a solid base, and are also not suitable for roofing in severe frost. But compared to the long list of benefits, these disadvantages are negligible.

Shingle Roofing Pie

Roofing cake is called a multi-layer structure, which serves as the basis for laying soft tiles. It includes some elements of the rafter system, lathing, thermal insulation, lining and moisture-proof material - it all depends on how the attic is equipped. Distinguish between a roofing cake for a warm and cold roof. The lot of the first is to create a base for shingles on outbuildings, summer cottages, garages, sheds, etc. If it is necessary to build a roof of a house intended for year-round living, then it should be made warm.

Insulated roof made of bituminous tiles

The main element of the roofing cake for warm roofs is insulation. In many ways, this determines the need for several layers that are needed for its normal functioning.

The soft roofing of residential buildings is built according to the "warm" type, therefore the roofing cake is distinguished by a large number of functional layers

The key to long-term and reliable operation of the roof is the ventilation duct, which is necessary for ventilating the under-roof space. Although, depending on the region, the structure may contain one or more layers of thermal insulation, the standard base of a warm roof is built according to the following scheme:

1. Soft tiles.
2. Lining carpet.
3. Solid plywood, OSB or solid board base.
4. Top lathing.
5. Counter grill that creates a ventilation gap.
6. Moisture protection.
7. Sheet or roll insulation.
8. Bottom lathing.
9. Vapor tight membrane.
10. Rafters.

Most often, the construction of the roofing cake is carried out from above. In this case, the thermal insulation is laid on the rough crate and the vapor barrier. If the work on the roof insulation is carried out from the attic side, then a polypropylene cord is used to support the insulation - it will not let it sag while the vapor barrier and the lower crate are installed.

When constructing a roof in the northern regions, the cross-section of the rafter legs may not be enough for the installation of thermal insulation of the required thickness. You can get out of the position with an additional beam, which is mounted perpendicular to the rafters. At the same time, the step of installing a sparse counter-lattice is selected taking into account the width of the insulation plates - they must fit into the cells with little effort.

Cold bitumen shingle roof

Since during the construction of a cold roof there is no need for insulation and related materials, the design of such a roof is noticeably simplified, and accordingly, its installation is facilitated. In general, a roofing cake should contain the following layers:

The opinion that bituminous shingles are in themselves an excellent waterproofing material does not give the right to refuse the use of underlayment, even if it is a cold roof for an undemanding awning. On slopes less than 18 degrees, these savings often lead to moisture penetration under the soft surface. The result of a careless attitude to technology can be unattractive stains on the shingles and wooden structural elements affected by fungus and mold. And if the first "only" reduces the aesthetics of the roof, then the second significantly reduces its service life.

You can refuse to use a lining carpet only on roof slopes with a steepness of more than 18 degrees, and even then only partially. It is imperative that areas such as the ridge, valleys, overhangs, exit points of ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as utility lines, must be additionally protected from moisture.

Video: features of a roofing cake for shingles

What is needed when installing a soft roof: tools and materials

As noted above, one of the advantages of a soft roof is the ease of installation. Indeed, subject to the technology, it is quite possible for a person with minimal construction skills to build even a two-layer warm roof with his own hands. At the same time, there is practically no need for the cost of tools and equipment - everything that is required is always at hand with a real home craftsman. If you are going to lay bitumen shingles, you should prepare:

• a hand saw or electric jigsaw with a blade for woodworking;
• knife for cutting shingles;
• spatula and trowel;
• hammer;
• claw or powerful pliers;
• measuring devices - tape measure, cord, plumb line and level;
• chalk and pencil.

If you plan to carry out work in the winter, then you will additionally need a blowtorch (gas burner) in order to warm up the mastic. The minimum temperature at which a soft roof can be laid is minus 15 ° C. In any case, it is best to carry out construction work when the outside air temperature is 15–20 ° C. This will exclude damage to the materials and ensure a reliable connection of the adhesive layer to the underlay.

Installation of flexible shingles can be performed at negative temperatures, however, equipment will be needed in order to warm up the substrate and bitumen mastic

To provide the necessary rigidity to the base, when constructing a soft roof, a solid-type sheathing is used. Otherwise, the bituminous coating, along with the roofing cake, will sag and quickly deteriorate. You should not think that plywood or OSB boards can be attached directly to the rafters and thereby save on battens. Of course, such a method is quite acceptable for the simplest structures such as a shed or a gazebo, however, when building a residential building, you cannot do without additional costs for lumber. And this is due not so much to the requirements of mechanical strength (the same boardwalk easily solves this problem), but to the need to equip the ventilation gap with a counterbeam.

In addition to the solid flooring and sparse lathing, the base structure should also include a counter beam that provides ventilation of the roofing pie

So, under the shingles, it is necessary to install two layers of lathing. The first tier is laid with a wooden beam or plank, and flooring made of plywood, boards, OSB or a combination of these materials is used as a solid base.

If a double solid lathing is constructed from boards, then the first layer is mounted in a row, and the elements of the boardwalk are fastened close to each other at an angle of 45 ° to the ridge. In this case, the boards of the lower tier should have a thickness of more than 25 mm and a width of 50 mm. When determining the step of their laying, the section of the lumber is taken into account. It is usually possible to exclude the possibility of bending of the boards of the upper row at intervals of 200–300 mm. Sheathing the lathing begins from the ridge, leaving a gap of at least 3 mm between the boards to eliminate the consequences of thermal deformations. Sheathing lumber must have a cross section of at least 20 mm and a width of more than 100 mm.

Single-layer lathing can only be used when arranging roofs for undemanding structures

Installation of a double combined lathing is less time consuming, therefore it is used most often. In such a design, boards or bars are used for the lower layer, and sheet lumber is used for the upper layer. The wooden base of a cold and warm roof is made in different ways. In the first case, thermal insulation and a diffusion membrane are not installed, therefore, to assemble the frame, only a rarefied crate is needed, on top of which sheets of plywood or OSB are fixed. If insulation is required, then an additional layer of lathing in the form of a bar is used, which is stuffed along the rafters. Thanks to him, a gap is formed between the waterproofing film and the large-panel flooring.

Calculation of shingles and other materials of the roofing pie

To determine the required amount of roofing tiles, insulation and waterproofing, the same principle is used as for any other covering material. In general, it is necessary to calculate the squaring of all roof slopes and make allowances for trimming, waste, various allowances, etc.

Before determining the consumption of roofing materials, you will need to find the total area of ​​all roof slopes

The easiest way is to calculate materials for gable roofs - you just need to find the doubled area of ​​a rectangle with sides in the form of the length and width of the slope. In the simplest hip roof, the slopes form two trapezoids and a pair of triangles, so it will also be easy to calculate the total squared surface. After that, the calculation of the materials of the roofing carpet is carried out taking into account the following amendments:

• bituminous shingles - from 3 to 4 percent for trimming and shifting shingles;
• waterproofing and lining carpet - at least 5% in order to overlap adjacent canvases;
• roll fiber insulation - according to the total area of ​​the roof;
• rigid slab thermal insulation and wooden flooring - taking into account the maximum laying of whole panels, but not less than 3% for trimming and joining.

Starting to calculate materials for combined roofs, it will be useful to sketch out a diagram with a detailed indication of the location of the valleys, external corners and dimensions of each structural element. A more complex structure will require additional costs for materials for the roofing cake:

• OSB, plywood and rigid slab insulation - about 10% stock;
• overruns of waterproofing and lining carpet - up to 5%;
• soft roll and plate heaters - up to 2%;
• flexible shingles - at least 10%.

Having calculated how many covering materials are needed, one should not forget about materials for arranging valleys and skates. When determining the molding of the valley carpet, it is necessary to make an amendment of no more than 1%. As for the cover for the ridge, here they take into account not only the tops of individual parts of the roof, but also each outer bend with an angle of more than 120 degrees.

Which roofing nails are suitable and how many will be needed

For the installation of soft roofing tiles, special nails with wide heads are used. Thanks to them, the fixing area is increased, which means that the risk of damage to the shingles during installation and during operation is reduced. Manufacturers produce fasteners of two types - with notches on the rod and with a smooth rod. In the process of laying, you can use both. Experience shows that the teeth on the nails for shingles are nothing more than a marketing ploy, because when you try to pull the edge of the petal, the material itself is more likely to break through. Pulling even the smoothest nail out of wood will be immeasurably more difficult.

Nails for soft tiles differ from ordinary nails with an enlarged diameter.

Tiled nails have the following sizes:

• length from 25 to 30 mm (nails for automatic pistols are longer - up to 40 mm);
• rod thickness - 3 mm;
• a cap with a diameter of 8 to 10 mm.

The number of nails that will be needed for the installation of soft tiles is determined only after the number of roofing tiles has been calculated. One tile sheet is secured with at least four nails, which must be driven in at a distance of 145 mm from the bottom edge and 25 mm on each side.

Affects the consumption of fasteners and the slope of roof slopes. So, on shallow surfaces with an angle of inclination of up to 45 °, four nails per shingle will be enough. If the slope has a steepness of more than 45 °, then two more nails are used for reinforcement. Depending on the type of shingles, they are hammered in at the corners of each strip or on the attachment line drawn by the manufacturer of the roofing material. When installing the valley and lining carpet, nails are hammered along the perimeter of the strips, observing a step of 20-25 cm. The additional elements are fixed in a checkerboard pattern, placing the fasteners at a distance of 15-20 cm.

When installing shingles, it is necessary to hammer nails correctly, otherwise the coating will not last long

1 kg contains up to 400 roofing nails, which makes it possible to roughly estimate their consumption. So, for the arrangement of 100 sq. m of soft roofing will need from 8 to 10 kg of fasteners.

What is the best way to cut shingles

During the installation process, the shingles of the bituminous shingles have to be cut both at the edges and at the junctions, in the valleys and at the outer corners. Very often novice roofers use a painter's knife or metal scissors for cutting. Well, in the absence of an alternative, even large cutting scissors can be used. Yet none of these tools will give you the clean cut and convenience of a dedicated shingle roofing knife. The hook blade allows for free-hand cutting and trims in place with minimal effort and an extremely clean and clean cut. By the way, an ordinary construction knife can be turned into a roofing knife in no time. All you need to do is replace the trapezoidal blade with a hook blade. You can buy the latter in building markets - most often such canvases are sold in sets of 3-5 pieces.

With a hook blade, a regular construction knife can be transformed into a specialized tool for cutting shingles

Installation of lathing and other elements of the roofing cake

The construction of the roofing cake can be started immediately after the rafter system is ready. Preparation of the base of a soft roof consists of several stages.

1. Installation of vapor barrier. A layer of diffusion film is needed in order to prevent moist air from entering the insulation and to remove excess moisture outside. When constructing a cold-type roof, a vapor barrier is not necessary. If a warm roof is installed, then without a diffusion membrane, the thermal insulation can get wet and quickly become unusable. The film should be installed from the side of the attic along the rafters - this will also protect the supporting wooden frame from moisture. The vapor barrier is spread with horizontal sheets and fixed in the direction from the eaves to the ridge. For reliable fixation, horizontal bars are used, which are nailed to the rafters with a step of 60 cm. Subsequently, these strips can be used for the installation of interior decoration.

   To fix the vapor barrier, it is convenient to use counter-lattice slats or strips, to which the attic finish will subsequently be attached

2. Thermal insulation laying. Plates or sheets of insulation are placed in the space between the rafters. For this reason, even at the stage of their installation, it is necessary to ensure that the step of the rafter legs is equal to the width of the insulating material. Plates are laid directly on the foil, if possible, staggered. If their thickness exceeds the cross-section of the rafters, then a beam is stuffed along the latter, which will compensate for the difference in size. The thermal insulation is covered with a windproof membrane, which is fixed with a counter beam with a section of 50x50 mm. Such a trick will just allow you to kill two birds with one stone - to fix the film and provide a gap between the insulation and the upper layers of the roof.

   When installing a rafter system, the step between the lags is often selected to the size of the insulation

3. Fastening the lathing. The slats or boards of the sparse sheathing are nailed at right angles to the counter beam. The step of their installation is determined by the thickness of the flooring, therefore, when determining this parameter, you should use the table below.
4. Arrangement of a solid base. For flooring, panel materials that have maximum moisture resistance are best suited - OSB panels or FSF plywood. It is advisable to fasten them to the crate with self-tapping screws, orienting the plates apart.

Table: dependence of the thickness of the solid flooring on the spacing of the sparse lathing

From my own experience, I can say that the optimal board thickness is 10 mm. Such a flooring will not bend even under a powerful snow load and will provide the calculated durability of the soft roof. When choosing plywood, preference should be given to coniferous wood varieties. As practice has shown, such a flooring practically does not lend itself to deformation during temperature extremes and high humidity. For additional treatment of the surface and edges of the sheets, I use a water-repellent compound. As for OSB, the technology of their manufacture allows you not to bother with any impregnations - such material can easily withstand even small leaks. That, however, does not remove the need to timely identify and eliminate defective spots.

When laying the slabs, a deformation gap of 2 to 5 mm should be left. Otherwise, a solid base can "lead", because of which the roof will lose its visual appeal or even leak. The flooring should not reach the ridge itself - for normal ventilation of the under-roof space, a gap of at least 70 mm is required.

Video: how to make a crate for soft roofing tiles

Installation instructions for shingles

Arrangement of soft roofing takes place in several stages:

• the formation of the lining layer;
• markup;
• fastening of additional roof elements;
• installation of flexible tiles;
• sealing of passages and junctions.

The work is best done in summer. The bitumen and mastic will be warmed up by the sun's rays, which will make it possible to obtain a durable monolithic connection between the roofing tile and the substrate.

Installation of the underlay

Rolled bitumen materials are used as a lining for a soft roof, which are mounted both along and across the slope. To ensure the tightness of the joints, the lining is spread with an overlap of at least 10 cm along the line of the panels and 15 cm in the places of transverse abutments.

When installing the underlayment, take into account the peculiarities of the geometry of the roof to ensure maximum tightness

On roofs with steep slopes, only the zones most susceptible to leaks need waterproofing - valleys, ends and overhangs of cornices, junctions to vertical sections, ridge, etc. It is only important that the joints of adjacent surfaces are protected by a lining carpet on both sides, and its width was:

• at the junctions of adjacent slopes - more than 50 cm;
• on skates - at least 25 cm on each side;
• at the edge of the slope and along the cornice line - 40-50 cm.

The fastening of the lining carpet is carried out with nails or construction staples, which are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. In valleys, the step of fastening is reduced to 1–15 cm, and bitumen mastic is used for more reliable fixation.

Fastening of additional elements

Additional elements of soft roofing allow to protect the crate and other parts of the wooden roof frame from precipitation. Eaves strips (droppers) are installed on the eaves overhangs on top of the waterproofing and fastened in a checkerboard pattern using the same nails for a soft roof. The frequency of the nail break should be no more than 10 cm. In the joints, the metal strips are pushed one on top of the other by 3-5 cm. The pediment strips are fixed at the ends of the ramp in the same way. The only difference is that it is important to observe the installation direction - from the eaves to the ridge.

The edges of the soft roof are protected with cornice and pediment strips

Before installing flexible roofing tiles, horizontal markings must be applied to each slope. With it, it will be much easier to maintain the correct location of each row. You can draw a straight line using a strong string, which is previously rubbed with chalk. Having fastened the cord on both sides of the ramp, it is pulled and released sharply. When struck against a substrate or wood base, the string will leave an even trail.

When laying starting shingles, it is important to make the necessary indentation from the edge of the eaves overhang

Eaves shingles are made in the form of straight shingles, not divided into separate petals. Starter strips usually sell for a higher price than regular tiles. For this reason, some craftsmen simply cut off the petals from them and attach this side outward. For fixing, standard nails with wide heads are used, which are spaced 25 mm from the edge of the tile. Each subsequent strip of eaves tile is attached end-to-end with the obligatory coating of the junction with bituminous mastic. The distance of the shingle from the edge of the eaves should be 10–20 mm.

First of all, the roofing material is mounted at the junction of adjacent slopes (if such are provided for by the roof structure). For this purpose, manufacturers produce a special end carpet. When spreading, it is wound on both adjoining surfaces, glued and additionally fixed with nails.

The end carpet is wound on both sides of the slopes, glued with bituminous mastic and then fixed with nails

When starting the installation of ordinary tiles, the shingles from all packages should be mixed. Thus, it will be possible to avoid a situation with an uneven color shade of the roof or the appearance of pronounced stripes of a certain tone.

Laying of ordinary tiles begins from the middle of the eaves, placing the tiles in vertical rows to the edges of the slope. The first row is mounted at a distance of 20–30 mm from the edge of the eaves tile. In order to obtain the same "tiled" pattern, the upper row is shifted relative to the lower one. In this case, the upper petals should overlap the cuts and attachment points of the lower strips.

The shingles themselves are fixed as follows:

Skate arrangement

The ventilation scheme of the under-roof space will be able to work only if the passage of air at the ridge of the roof is ensured. For this purpose, special plastic aerators are used, which are attached to the elements of the rafter system with nails or self-tapping screws.

High-quality ventilation of the under-roof space can be provided using special aerators

Ridge shingles are obtained from cornice shingles by cutting the latter along the perforation. Individual tiles are laid across the ridge, secured on each side with two nails. In this case, each subsequent sheet is applied to the previous one by at least 5 cm, and a layer of bituminous mastic is applied to the junction.

From above, the aerator must be covered with ridge tiles, otherwise the plastic elements will suffer from atmospheric influences and solar radiation

Protection of walkways and junctions

If various engineering communications pass through the roof - antenna racks, ventilation pipes, etc. - special pass-through nodes are installed in these places. Their fastening to a solid base is performed even before the start of laying the soft roof, in order to let the shingles from above during the installation process. After that, the soft tiles are glued to the penetration with bitumen mastic, pre-cutting the shingles in place.

In the places where the slopes adjoin the walls, chimneys and brick ventilation ducts, the top layer of the roofing cake is brought onto a vertical surface. To avoid damage to the roofing at the bend, a plinth (triangular) strip is attached at the junction of the wall and roof. The lining and edges of the tile sheets are coated with bitumen mastic and carefully glued to the mating surfaces. All that remains is to protect the edge of the shingles from moisture flowing down the wall. To do this, a valley carpet is mounted on top of the roofing, onto which an abutment bar is nailed in the upper part.

The most common mistakes when installing flexible roofing

Violations in the technology of installing bituminous tiles lead to leaks and reduce the reliability and durability of the soft roof. The most common installation errors include:

1. Laying shingles on roofs where the slope does not fit within the permissible limits.
2. Installation of a soft roof without underlayment or the use of partial moisture insulation on sloping slopes.
3. Insufficient length of shingles nails in case of boarding.
4. Fastening of soft roofing tiles with construction staples.
5. Insufficient ventilation of the roofing cake or lack of diffusion vapor barrier.
6. Installation of solid base plates without deformation gaps.
7. Insufficient thickness of the base plates.
8. Lack of support from the battens of the crate under the lines of the joints of plywood or OSB.
9. Arrangement of junctions and nodes of passage through the roof in violation of the tightness requirements.
10. Fasteners are too close to the edge of the shingles.
11. Installation in violation of the temperature regime.

Unfortunately, it is very long to list the mistakes made by novice roofers. Meanwhile, all the nuances of installation are provided by the manufacturer and are provided in the technological map, which can be found on the official website or in the instructions for the soft roof.

Video: mistakes when packing flexible shingles and how to fix them

Being one of the most technologically advanced and durable roofing materials, flexible shingles do not tolerate carelessness and haste during work. It is possible to hope for a long service life of a tiled roof without leaks and damage only if all technology requirements are observed. During operation, it will be necessary to monitor the condition of the ventilation holes, repair damage in a timely manner, periodically clean the roof from moss and treat it with antiseptic solutions. Not that difficult task, is it?

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. A variety of styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a complex roof structure - what more could you ask for? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of shingles itself will be within your power, believe me, even if this is the first time you come across this type of work!

Therefore, if you carefully read our tips, then with the help of one more person you will cover an even larger roof. The fact is that even in the factory, shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and even making four holes so that you know exactly where to drive in the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier as a continuous carpet on the inside of the roof, no gaps, and secure it to the rafters with wooden planks. You will then attach the inner lining of the attic to the same slats.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, a vapor barrier film is rolled out with an overlap and glued with special tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, from the outside on the vapor barrier film, lay the selected insulation, preferably in a ragged way. Cover the top with a windproof membrane and secure with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should have such a "puff cake" as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you a detailed master class on how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay flexible sheets on the expelled lucarnes!

Step 2. Installation of solid flooring

For the installation of shingles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB boards on the prepared crate, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix the shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or tongue-and-groove boards, laid back to back, are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself for a soft roof, albeit more frequent, because in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the eaves with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fixed with roofing nails, with a step of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Select and install the underlay

Now is the time to take care of the waterproofing. It is needed in difficult places such as abutments, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal direction and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, not roofing felt or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they and the final roofing have different service lives, and even the conditions of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to the swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will give a guarantee for a roof that has been pieced together with third-party materials.

By the way, until recently in Russia lining carpets were practically not used, and even today many people try to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to install shingle roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will penetrate into the under-roof space, especially in such difficult places as bypassing chimneys or contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when a strong wind raises the shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to choose a roofing carpet, because the same requirements are imposed on it as to the tile: to be resistant to temperature extremes, to provide reliable waterproofing and to serve for a long time. And the modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many factories in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign counterparts in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and with mechanical fixation. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining roof area and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the installation process for a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:

Here's an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing carpet:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have an inclination of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of probable leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all outlets of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to that, we recommend placing a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material, for example, "Barrier", on the eaves overhangs, and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along its entire length:

Also insulate ventilation ducts, areas around skylights and chimneys in advance. Before installing the shingles, coat all the pass-throughs with your own hands with bitumen mastic - it's not difficult.

Before you start installing shingles, you will also need to reinforce the eaves. They need to be fixed with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm.Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To secure the shingles, you will need special nails with wide heads. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the head is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not "cut" into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for the installation of soft tiles are divided into the following types:

• Roofing nails... They have such a sharpened point that when they are buried in the bituminous layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begins to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary huts.
• Rusty nails... On the working rod, they have special teeth that are directed towards the cap. Such ones are not easily hammered into wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, the cap is simply cut off from the brushed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so tightly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
• Cliff nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofs.

We recommend that you take galvanized flanged ones with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible shingles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made from durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into the shape of a hat on the other. If you find these on sale, you can purchase.

But it is important in this case that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the head is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with specifically bituminous shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when nails, with the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended cap will not be able to “sink” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will be to hold the shingle, which is why high-quality shingle nails resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for one-layer and two-layer shingles, nails with parameters 30x3.5 mm will be needed, and for three-layer - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some would-be builders do not understand why it is impossible to just warm up the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why exactly nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary fire safety considerations. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5. Placing the starting strip

And now we turn directly to the installation of shingles. It starts from the starting strip. As such, you can take:

• a pattern from ordinary tiles, for example, shingles with cut petals, if you work with the collections “ Tango" or " Trio»;
• universal ridge-eaves tile, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with eaves, lay them on top of the metal strip, slightly stepping back from the fold. Next, nail it down, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater the indentation from the bend should be:

This is how laying the starting strip looks like in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now we unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bitumen shingles at temperatures below + 5 ° С, because in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If, nevertheless, it is necessary to fix the shingles in such conditions, then prophylaxis will be needed: the sheets are heated with a construction hairdryer and bent on a metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it’s better not to do that.

It is not difficult to calculate the required number of shingles: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of ​​the slope and divide the second by the first. Here is some valuable advice on how to calculate and prepare shingles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then you can do with detailed calculations, but the marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are installing a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and reattaching them to fix the joint is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is cut into the roof or the general geometry of the slope is broken. In this matter, you will be helped by tools such as a skip, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, usually for convenience, ready-made shingles are marked with small holes in the factory, so that you know exactly where to drive nails. If there are none (for example, in the cheapest collections), then just step back from the edge 2-3 cm and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place of driving the nail will directly depend on the cut shape of the tiles themselves. It is only important that each nail simultaneously stitches the lower and upper edges of all sheets, and if you are laying shingles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingles also need to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying shingles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

1. Mix a few sticks of shingles prior to installation to minimize shade variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color may differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
2. If the slope is long enough, start from the center of the roof and level it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half the sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, too, half a petal, to the left or to the right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
3. You need to start laying the tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should make an approach to a steeper slope by at least 30 cm.On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to get lost. Now cut the shingles on a larger slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bitumen mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back.
4. Lay the shingles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here you will need to lay a special ridge-eaves tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut off the petals.

Now fix the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it will be powered by an electrical network. The main thing is that when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger mechanism should be comfortable, protected from an accidental shot and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually the hammer is more intended for small household tasks, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip of nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected by a thin wire. This tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. It is much more convenient to work at height: you do not need to look for clusters, you do not need to expose your fingers to the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to observe the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was not securely fixed, then over time it will loosen its mount and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the leaf, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to a leak and the necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now we will consider the features of mounting shingles of different types. So, from a single-layer shingle, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roof covering is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such a cut as “ Dragon tooth», There is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it randomly, simply by mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with a complex roof, you have two methods of installing shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make the correct marking of the ramp and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Securing the shingles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic parts of the roof. Hollows, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the joints of the roof with the wall and start shingles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. The upper part of the abutment must then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and brought into the grooves, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and backbone tiles

Next, let's figure out the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, backbone shingles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or cut out from the usual ordinary perforation method.

To correctly lay the backbone shingles, use a cord to beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the backbone shingles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

Ridge tiles are laid on the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat there with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:

Here's another great workshop where you can look at the details of the process:

And finally, finishing work. The installation of flexible tiles is always completed with the installation of a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with a special ridge tile.

Also for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross-section exceeds 50x50 cm, it is necessary to organize a groove. In short, you need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and all that remains is to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, using a soft brush, sweep all the small debris from the roof off the leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean your gutters and funnels from time to time.

Fortunately, a shingle roof is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and install new tiles. Business of one day!

When arranging the roof of a house, it is important for each owner that it is reliable and durable. When choosing a coating, other factors also matter - these are the affordable cost of the material and the attractiveness of its appearance. In addition, for many, an important role is played by the possibility of self-installation of the coating on the roof without the additional involvement of outside specialists. All these requirements are met by flexible or soft tiles - a modern material that is popular today among owners of suburban real estate.

Benefits and types of shingles

This material is a small flat sheet, one edge of which is figured. Sometimes organic cellulose can be used for its production. But in the overwhelming majority of cases, the basis is fiberglass, which is impregnated with a bitumen-polymer composition. The front part of the tile is covered with stone granules, which have a protective function and serve for decorative purposes. And a layer of adhesive is applied to the lower part of the material, which, when installing the roofing, ensures its tightness.

There are many different shades of this roofing material on sale. There are quite a few of its types in the shape of the curly edge. It can be rounded or rectangular, in the form of a rhombus or hexagon. Any of the shingle design options looks great. This material is able not only to make any building more attractive, but also to organically fit it into the surrounding landscape.

The main advantage that distinguishes soft tiles from other roofing materials is the low weight of this coating. It weighs much less than, for example, such material, which is also quite in demand, such as. He also has other advantages. Its advantages over other roofing materials include:

• durability - the durability of the coating is about 30-40 years;
• resistance to temperature extremes - suitable for use in various climatic conditions;
• resistance to mechanical stress - even large hailstones are not afraid of the material;
• lack of susceptibility to corrosion - especially in comparison with metal coatings;
• UV protection - the sun's rays do not significantly affect the coating;
• undemanding care - if the tile was laid in compliance with the technology, then it will not require attention for years;

• not too much difficulty in self-laying the coating - the installation of flexible tiles can be done with your own hands if you have at least some experience in the field of construction;
• affordable cost of the material - prices for soft tiles are lower compared to some other types of roofing.

Of course, as with any building material, shingles also have some disadvantages. Among the small set of disadvantages, the following two can be distinguished:

• not too high thermal conductivity;
• lack of resistance to flowering, although this disadvantage is inherent in other materials for the roof.

Advice. As a result of the low thermal conductivity of this roofing material, it is worth paying special attention to the need for additional thermal insulation before laying it.

Preparatory work before laying soft flooring

A roof covering such as shingles can be used for various types of roofs, and not just pitched roofs. Due to its good ductility, this material is perfect for roofs of even the most complex shapes.

Attention! The minimum slope angle for mounting this material must be at least 12 degrees. Otherwise, leakage may occur in places where the tiles meet. In addition, the attractiveness of the material at lower slope angles is simply not visible.

Before installing soft tiles, certain preparatory work is required. Under this covering, you need to make a one-piece flooring under the crate. It can be executed from:

• moisture resistant plywood sheets;
• particle boards OSB or OSB;
• planed or grooved boards.

The joints of the material must coincide with the rafters. It is advisable to treat the wooden base with an antiseptic before starting work. The very same covering for shingles should turn out to be tough and with a flat surface.

In addition, before installing the soft coating after arranging the base, you will need to lay on it:

• lining carpet - bituminous material in rolls or roofing material;
• carpets for the valley - bitumen-polymer compounds for waterproofing the joints to ventilation pipes and walls.

Installation of flexible shingles

The beginning of the laying of the soft coating is carried out from the center with advancement then to the ends, placing the first row of material in such a way that its lower edge coincides with the edge of the cornice. Before installation, the protective coating is removed from the shingles, then laying it on the base, fixing the material from the edges and above the curly cutouts about 3 cm above the edge. For greater reliability from the wind and at large angles of the roof slope, the flexible shingles are fastened with six nails, hammering two more in the upper corners. Adjacent sheets are mounted so that they are located in a row close to one another.

All subsequent rows of material are laid in such a way that the protrusions of the upper are at the level of the cutouts of the one below. Having reached the ends in the laying, the sheet of tiles is bent, cutting along this line. This place is glued with bitumen mastic with additional treatment of the joints with a sealant.

Work on laying soft tiles is carried out in dry weather and in the warm season with a temperature of 5 degrees Celsius, otherwise the material will not adhere well to the base. In addition, at lower temperatures, the sheets of this material become brittle. It is permissible to use a building hair dryer during work, which allows you to additionally warm up the material in cold weather in order to install the coating. Having some knowledge and experience in the field of construction, as well as observing the technology of laying soft tiles, you can install it on your own.

Installation of flexible tiles: video

Flexible shingles: photo