Comprehensive garden care. Bridge grafting will save the tree

In winter and in early spring in stores it is already possible. And imported flowering plants, which can also be grown in the garden, are sold all year round.

The challenge for gardeners is: before planting in open ground, because the beginning of the gardening season is still very far away. But once in a warm place, the planting material of garden plants instantly starts to grow.

It is pointless to warn gardeners to refrain from buying garden plants so early long before planting them in the garden. I myself sometimes cannot resist shopping planting material in winter and early spring. Therefore, you need to know how to proceed correctly with the purchased garden plants, so that they are in a permanent place before planting.

I will tell you how I save early purchased seedlings of various garden plants in the apartment before planting them in a permanent place.

The importance of keeping planting material cool

Consider in detail the questions about early purchased rose seedlings and the conditions for them successful landing and good survival rate in the future.

It is advisable to buy seedlings that went on sale in winter and early spring immediately after being brought to the store and stored in a cool place. It is important that the garden plants lie warm for a minimum of time, otherwise the planting material will begin to grow.

For example, when in a warm and dark place, thin white sprouts grow in packets of perennial rhizomes in bags of peat. Wax-coated rose shoots quickly sprout buds, and the polyethylene-packed roots suffocate. Therefore, when keeping planting material of garden plants in such unfavorable conditionseven later a short time sometimes there is nothing to hope for.

Saplings of roses

Consider the situation with the planting material purchased in winter or early spring, packed in colorful carton boxes (including those brought from Poland, Hungary, etc.). Their price is very attractive, so it is difficult to resist not to purchase such seedlings of the desired varieties of roses.

If the buds on the purchased rose seedling have not yet begun to swell, then this good sign - it means that with a high probability this rose will take root. But before planting the purchased rose in the garden, it must be saved.
When stored warm, rose seedlings develop long shoots. I do not take such roses at all - after all, the thin sprouts will dry up, and the roots of the seedling are not working yet, and such a strongly weakened plant may die.

The purchased rose seedling soon starts to grow, even if you keep it in the refrigerator for the first time.
At first, you can store the rose in the refrigerator in the packaging in which it was purchased, but no more than a week. The chances of survival for a rose seedling decrease every day, because its packed roots are pinched and covered with peat or sawdust, which can dry out. Therefore, after a short storage in a cold place, the rose has to be planted in a pot.

In the photo: unpacked rose seedling before planting in a pot

Rose seedlings bought in cardboard packaging must be unpacked and the roots examined. They are cut to a minimum without any regret. And there are roots and are bent two or three times, so a large container may be needed for planting such a rose seedling.
Since I cannot resist such early purchases of new roses every year, I have two large pots with a height of 22 cm for planting them (the smaller the diameter of the container, the less land will be needed). Therefore, in winter or early spring, I buy no more than two rose seedlings at the very beginning of the delivery to the store, while the plants have not yet begun to grow.

In the fall, I make and harvest soil mixtures for growing seedlings with a high content of sand. Purchased peat substrate is suitable only as an additive to a self-composed earthen mixture to give it more looseness and moisture capacity.

I plant the unpacked rose in a pot, spreading the roots, into the prepared soil (in terms of the volume of the earth, there should be a little more than the bulk of the roots). If the roots are large, then you can bend them a little at the very bottom, so that when planting, a clod of earth is preserved in the center. And along the perimeter, protruding roots can then be straightened and cut a little.
Gradually I cover the roots of the rose with an earthy mixture, watering and at the same time slightly compacting it near the roots.

I pour a layer of dry earth or sand into the pot on top as mulch. I leave the root collar of a rose seedling on the surface of the earth - I will deepen it when transplanting a rose from a pot into open ground to a permanent place.

It would be nice to store pots of roses in a cold, frost-free place at a constant temperature, but I don't have such a large free refrigerator. I take out the planted rose on the glassed-in balcony and monitor the air temperature. It is undesirable for it to fall below zero, since young buds and sprouts of a rose seedling may freeze slightly, and this will have a bad effect on its survival rate in the future. If the frosts are light, the rose shoots can be covered with something ( non-woven fabric, film) for better preservation. When expected at night very coldy - I bring the pots of roses from the balcony into the apartment and put them in the coolest place until the cold passes.

It will be possible to plant purchased rose bushes in the garden in spring, as soon as the ground allows - this usually happens in mid-April or a little earlier. I bring roses in pots to the dacha. I plant them carefully, without disturbing the clod of earth and deepening the root collar as expected - about 2 cm.

It is imperative to take care of covering (with any non-woven material, film) for the first time the roses planted in the garden from excess sun and wind. Recurrent frosts will also probably still be, which is usually for the middle lane; but if there is little greenery, and it freezes over, it's okay. It is better not to remove the temporary shelter from the planted roses as long as possible for their maximum adaptation in the garden, especially in difficult weather conditions.

In the photo: rose seedlings planted in pots; the first flowering of a young rose after a few months

Similarly to rose seedlings, I save all other garden seedlings purchased in winter or early spring until planting in the garden; but with them it is usually easier. They do not need such voluminous pots (except for hydrangeas) - it is enough to just fit their roots in the pot.

If the rose was bought in a blooming pot, then you can wait a little - until all the flowers that have opened will bloom (provided that the rose stands in cool place, and).
In a pot with a purchased blooming rose there is one transport peat, which dries quickly in an apartment, so you have to water it often.
It is pointless to wait for other flowers from such a plant, so you need to pinch off the remaining buds, shake off the peat from the roots and transplant it into a soil suitable for a rose.
I have roses under the usual shelter at the dacha, bought in February-March in blooming pots. But blooming roses are still better to buy closer to the beginning of the gardening season or early autumn, so that right away.

Gerberas, chrysanthemums, hydrangea

In the same way as with blooming roses in pots, I do with blooming flowers bought in early spring. Then these gerberas bloom all summer in my country house, in the open field.

Blossoming in pots, which are also sold in abundance in late winter and early spring, then grow beautifully in the country.
Blooming chrysanthemum bushes bought in pots will also need to be transplanted from peat into a suitable substrate in which they will grow before planting in open ground.
Potted chrysanthemums, once in the garden, grow into huge bushes by autumn. Because these plants for growing in pots are treated with growth-inhibiting hormones, and in the wild these chrysanthemums are not prevented from growing. They bloom again in the garden in autumn - and sometimes chrysanthemums in the open field get a completely different color of flowers than when you buy them blooming in a store.
Heat-loving chrysanthemums must be dug up in autumn and cool until spring. And cold-resistant ones need to be covered for the winter, they will not overwinter without shelter.

Just like the roses and chrysanthemums, which I bought in winter and early spring, blooming in pots, I also grew a seedling from a plant blooming in a pot for my garden. True, blue flowers my hydrangeas were only at the very beginning, and in the country they turned from blue to pink. I have not yet tried watering a hydrangea bush with alum to get a blue color of flowers, because I also like pink.

Once again, I will clarify that those purchased in pots should not be transplanted into a ready-made peat substrate, which is sold in a store, but into the ground.
I always have humus prepared in advance from the dacha for such home plantings. I mix it with sand, with a purchased substrate (I try to take packages "Living Earth"). I must steam the earthen mixture.

When planting in pots, the roots of seedlings should only be slightly sprinkled with earth on top.

Clematis and woody plants

Clematis seedlings that are purchased in winter or early spring long before planting in the garden are treated in the same way as with blooming roses. For them, too, the main thing is not to pour the plants in the pot. In young clematis seedlings, the weakest point is the root collar (the place from which the plant's roots begin to grow), which can rot from waterlogging. Therefore, when planting clematis in a pot, it is better not to cover the root collar with earth at all; and if you cover it a little, then only with sand.
As soon as possible, you need to take out the pot with the planted clematis on a glazed balcony or loggia (make sure that there are no subzero temperatures there).
After planting clematis in the ground, you first need to cover the seedling from the sun and wind.

With purchased garden seedlings, they act in the same way as with seedlings of roses and clematis.

Seedlings of some types of garden plants are sold with an open root system. If the roots have already wilted, then the dry ends of the roots must be trimmed before planting (about 0.5 cm, to healthy tissue), and then soaked for 3-4 hours (I use the root). And then plant the plant in a pot.

Bulbous and corm plants

Planting material of gladioli and planted in the spring in the garden when the ground warms up. In our middle lane the planting period for these plants is usually late April and early May. Otherwise, in cold ground, tubers and bulbs of heat-loving plants can rot, and then the plant will be sick for a long time and grow slowly.

After purchase, the planting material of these plants should be kept in a cold, dark place, in this case the refrigerator helps out.
Perennial rhizomes and bulbs after purchase are undesirable for a long time in the same package in the refrigerator. Peat containing rhizomes, root tubers and bulbs may dry out; or, conversely, they will rot from excess moisture.
Even the unpretentious ones began to rot the scales after a week of storage in the refrigerator in the packaging in which the bulbs were purchased. It's good that I noticed it in time. I cut off the blackened areas, smeared with brilliant green, dried the sections and. Until sprouts appear in pots with lilies, and the bulb is in the ground and protected from the cold, then weak and short frosts on the glassed-in balcony are not terrible for plants.

When the sprouts of high-quality lily bulbs stored in the refrigerator reach a length of more than 10 cm, and wait a long time before planting the plants in the garden, they also need to be planted in the ground and the pots should be exposed to light.
In lilies, the formed supra-bulbous roots are important for growth, therefore, this must be taken into account when planting bulbs in a pot. The soil layer above the lily bulb should be at least 5-7 cm.

Corms have a peculiarity: if you break the already grown roots at the bottom of the bulb, then new ones will not grow, and this will weaken the flowering.

When planting them in the garden, it is imperative to add under gladioli and dahlias.
are demanding of different soil acidity, therefore, when planting their bulbs, you must carefully add wood ash (look at). Remember that some groups of lilies prefer slightly acidic soil (for example, Oriental Hybrids), and ash creates an alkaline environment.

When planting plants from pots into the garden, they must be carefully knocked out of the pot with a lump of earth, then they get sick less after transshipment.

Dahlias

Heat-loving ones are afraid of frost, and it will be possible to plant them with sprouts in the garden only when it warms up in late April or early May - under a shelter with protection from return frosts.

I store the purchased dahlia root tubers in a bag with holes - I keep them in the refrigerator until the buds on the neck begin to swell. And then also, matched to the size of each tuber. I moisten the earth and keep the dahlias at home in the coolest place.
Such a place in my apartment is a cupboard in the kitchen under the window. In early February, I just take out the overwintered from there after a period of winter dormancy. And then I again fill the shelves of the cabinet with pots with rhizomes and bulbs planted in winter and early spring, which stand there until mid-March.

Purchased dahlias once began to bloom in my garden very early - at the same time as at the end of May. I must say that there is no beauty in this - the blooming dahlias are "lost" against the background of the exuberant flowering of peonies and other flowers of this spring period. Still, we used to perceive dahlias as summer and autumn flowers in August and September, since dahlias bloom magnificently before the onset of frost. And it is in the fall that the beauty of their inflorescences is striking, as there are fewer and fewer flowering plants in the garden. And dahlias seem to us exotic flowers against the background of yellowing foliage of woody plants.

Caring for planted garden plants

After planting in pots, garden plants must be well spilled and the pots must be removed to the coolest place in the apartment. Try to water the plants as little as possible - let the earth dry out a little rather than overflow.

If the condition of the seedling allows, and the plant has just started to grow, it is better to hold it longer in cold and dark until planting.
And if there are already leaves on it, then you need to choose a cool and bright place to keep the sprouted plant.

When roses and other plants are kept in an apartment, a malicious pest often appears on them (especially if the rose is in a warm place) -.
As soon as the leaves of the rose bush begin to turn yellow, you need to carefully monitor the rose, wash its stem and leaves with cool water, and carry out preventive treatments against spider mites. Since the tick is very small, when you can already see its web on the plant, it is sometimes too late - it is not always possible to save the affected rose.

Spraying pest-affected plants in an apartment with chemicals is problematic. When it is not very cold outside and there is a glazed balcony or loggia, then you can spray the plants there during the day, and bring them into the apartment in the evening. Rose holds well low temperatures (the main thing is that the balcony is not lower than + 3 ... + 5 degrees).
Spider mite in the apartment can harm not only roses, but also all the plants located there.

The advantages of planting plants grown at home in the garden

When a plant bought in winter or early spring was at home in a pot with soil before planting in the garden, it root system has already sufficiently developed and adapted to the earth. Therefore, when transferring a plant from a pot to open ground, the plant must only be slightly deepened, and also covered for the first time from the wind and from the hot sun.
In the garden, such seedlings do not get sick after transplanting, they begin to grow and get stronger almost immediately, and soon they bloom.

Garden plants after planting in the ground have time to prepare well for winter during the gardening season.

So, it only makes sense to buy garden plants in stores in winter and early spring if you are sure that you can save the seedlings before planting in the garden. If there are conditions for keeping these plants, and, most importantly, if there is a desire to nurture and grow them. And the question is where

Every day spring is getting closer and closer - at least, the calendar one. Both people and nature around them are always looking forward to it. But when the perfectly clean, snow-white winter cover comes off, problems are exposed, recovery related garden after winter. Each owner of a country house should put things in order on the site after winter and wake it up after "hibernation". How to do it right, without missing a single important detail and without harming the plants weakened after winter?

Cleaning of foliage and debris

After the snow begins to melt, last year's leaves, dry tree branches broken off by heavy snow or gusty winds, and accumulated debris will appear on the surface of the earth. When the ground dries out a little, you need to arm yourself with a rake and remove all this from the territory personal plot... Let the earth dry up completely after that.

Pruning trees and shrubs

In late winter or early spring (depending on climatic conditions) trees are prepared for pruning. If some of the plants in the garden were sheltered from the winter cold, it is necessary to remove protective layer spruce branches (spruce branches), disassemble the structures built specifically to protect plants from snow, remove the covering material (burlap, non-woven fabric, etc.) and untie the twine with which the branches were tied. Let the plant breathe deeply.

Pruning trees, along with fertilization and irrigation, is essential element care, allows you to control the growth of the tree, improves the quality of its fruits. The best time for pruning, there is a dormant period when the plant does not bloom and does not bear fruit. Pruning is carried out when the stable temperature does not fall below 2 degrees, otherwise the sections will turn out to be uneven, and the bark will begin to break. Each tree is pruned in a special way, depending on its type, variety and age. For example, young apple and pear trees with a spreading and drooping crown are pruned at the bend of the branches, as if directing them up. And the compressed crown, on the contrary, strives to expand, cutting in the very depth. To improve the quantity and quality of fruits, the fruit branches are thinned around the periphery.

Remember that over-pruning can cause the crown to thicken too much. If you are afraid to spoil a tree that has been grown for many years, it is better to consult a specialist. A landscape designer will help you tidy up your suburban area after winter.

Often, after winter, trees are damaged, frost cracks appear on them (cracks in the bark or in the core of a tree in the form of spots on frozen areas of wood). Frost holes are covered with garden varnish or a special antibacterial balsam - “artificial bark”. With proper care, the negative effects of wintering can be reduced and prevented from occurring in the future. In early spring, before the buds begin to hatch, shrubs can be replanted. And don't forget to remove any old leaves from them!

Lawn restoration

Winter is a real test for your ... You can start recovering it even before the snow completely melts. Using a rake, spread the snow cover evenly over the entire area to avoid lumps of ice (they can crush or damage the grass). You need to loosen the snow carefully, trying not to hurt the roots of the plants.

When the snow melts, puddles can form on the lawn. It's time to aerate the lawn - piercing the turf special devicessuch as special spiked overshoes or an aerator (gasoline or electric) that pierces the lawn using a toothed shaft. Depth - about 7 cm.Aeration improves air circulation in the soil, allows the roots to drink melt water and helps to avoid diseases associated with accumulation carbon dioxide in top layer soil. By the way, during this period it is better to avoid moving around the lawn, because potholes and traces are easily formed on it.

Another mandatory and useful procedure is lawn combing - i.e. harvesting last year's dry grass, moss and leaves overwintered under the snow. The surface of the lawn is carefully processed with a fan rake, allowing you to get rid of unnecessary litter and improve air circulation for plant roots. For large areas lawn, you can use mechanical openers.

If "bald spots" appear here and there, it is necessary to overseed, and preferably with the same composition of seeds. They are mixed with dry sand and sown on bare areas. You can also use a ready-made lawn in rolls (turf).

If you correctly carry out all the necessary measures to restore a suburban area after winter, it will delight you with magnificent views all season!

To learn more

If you have any questions about landscape design or you want to place an order, fill out this form. We will answer you as soon as possible by phone or email.

Healthy, blooming gardenbringing a rich harvest largely depends on proper, high-quality care, especially in spring... The time for the awakening of all living things is important and troublesome for gardeners. Perform all work depending on weather conditions and climatic zone.

First work in the garden

Work in the garden begins with the release of the branches of the plantings from melted snow, if precipitation was abundant at the end of winter. From the spring sun, the snow becomes loose and heavy, it can easily break thin branches. To avoid this, shake it off. If the branches have already buckled and fell, build supports to support them.

The next tip is relevant for areas with a slope. So that the melt water is retained, and the flood does not erode the soil, build ramparts of snow across the slope.

Stock up on melt water - it is rich in useful trace elements. For this, containers must be filled with snow and added as it melts.

With the arrival of spring, not only vegetation wakes up - rodents and pests are ready to activate. Inspect existing bait poisons, prepare new ones if necessary.

The snow has melted - start cleaning the garden. Collect old leaves and other debris, and get rid of weeds if they appear.

Whitewashing - protection of horticultural crops

How to whitewash trees

Even before the snow finally melts and the trees "wake up", choose a dry day and whitewash.

Before work, prepare damaged trees: clean the trunk with a brush, remove the dead bark, at the same time, overwintered and remaining pests will be destroyed. Growths, lichens are also peeled off. Cover all open cracks with garden varnish. Whitewash after the treated areas are completely dry.

Early whitewashing is a double benefit to wood:

Prevents burns that can appear on the bark from bright spring rays, so use only white.
Protects the tree trunk from insect pests.

Choose which solution to apply yourself. Acrylic paint rains are not terrible - this whitewash is the most resistant. You can use special store solutions and self-prepared, with the addition of any adhesive.

How to whitewash fruit trees

The most common is whitewashing with lime:

2.5 kg of lime is diluted per bucket of water;
half a liter of copper sulfate;
wood glue is added - 200 grams so that the solution on the tree lasts longer.

Whitewashing based on manure and lime:

1 kg of lime and manure;
200 grams of copper sulfate;
mix the indicated components in 8 liters of water, leave for about 2 hours.

Clay-based whitewashing solution:

mix 1 kg of fatty clay in 10 liters of water;
2 kg of slaked lime;
shovel of cow dung;
250 grams of copper sulfate.

Insist 2 hours Whitewash the young trees with a mixture based on chalk, under such a solution the bark will breathe freely.

Spraying trees and shrubs in the garden

Caring for a garden in the spring is a mandatory prevention of pests and disease control.

When to process trees

Processing fruit and berry crops use special preparations at least 3 times:

before vegetation (kidney swelling);
before flowering;
7-10 days after flowering.

How to spray fruit trees

Early spraying of trees with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate, urea, (urea) will relieve plants of many problems. There are other treatment tools: chemical, combined, but the above are effective and one of the most budgetary. The gardener decides which drug to choose.

Start the first treatment when the temperature has reached 5 ° C heat. During this period, spraying will destroy successfully overwintered pests.
The use of special preparations before flowering will help protect the buds, cope with pest larvae and fungal diseases.
The next treatment is needed to destroy the appeared insects and fruit rot.

Remember, it is not recommended to spray trees during flowering.

Tree feeding

Garden maintenance includes spring feeding trees that contribute to nutrition and improve soil quality. All necessary elements for the growth of plants are obtained by mineral fertilizersso don't forget about them every year. Organic: compost, peat, manure is enough to use once every 2 - 3 years. Usually, in the spring, the soil is fed with nitrogen, and in the fall, manure, phosphorus, and potassium are used.

Fertilizer timing

Apply the first fertilizer in March. Mineral mixtures dissolve well, they can be sprinkled on snow. Together with melt water, they are absorbed into the ground and useful material... On a site with a slope, such feeding will not be effective: it will be carried away by melt water.

Another option is relevant for all fruit and berry crops: 2/3 dose nitrogen fertilizers add when you dig up the trunk circles.

Dosage of organic and mineral fertilizers for the garden

Be attentive to the fertilization process: both a lack and an excess of minerals will negatively affect the fruit-bearing trees. For example, an irregularity of such a useful element as nitrogen can affect frost resistance and overall plant growth.

More accurate fertilization data are shown in the table.

Table 1. Dose of fertilization per one fruit tree

Planting year	Diameter trunk circle, m	Organic fertilizers, kg	Mineral fertilizers, g
Planting year	Diameter trunk circle, m	Organic fertilizers, kg	Nitrogen	Phosphorus	Potassium
2nd	2,0	6	10	10	15
3rd, 4th	2,5	10	20	20	30
5, 6th	3,0	15	30	30	45
7, 8th	3,5	20	60	40	60
9, 10th	4,0	25	75	50	75
11, 12th	5,0	40	120	80	150

In addition to mineral fertilizers for feeding, use organic matter: manure and compost. Rotten manure improves soil properties. Clay in structure becomes less viscous, and light, free-flowing ones increase their moisture capacity. Organic fertilizers not only have a positive effect on the soil, but also nourish with useful elements.
Valentina Kravchenko, expert

How to fertilize plants correctly

Do not feed young plants, start this beneficial process from the second year of the tree's life.

Consider the following factors when applying fertilizer:

plants absorb the liquid form of fertilizers better;
do not apply top dressing near the trunk: roots sucking nutrientslocated along the perimeter of the branches;
fertilize in the evening or on a cloudy day;
so that the roots do not get burned, first moisten the soil, only then apply liquid fertilizers;
keep the ground near the tree in a loose state, so the plant "breathes" better;
after applying dry fertilizers, water the near-stem area along with top dressing.

Pruning - effective sanitation

Trees and shrubs that were not pruned during their growth look worse, age faster, and their yield decreases.

When to prune fruit trees

Finish all pruning work before the buds begin to swell. Before performing the procedure, wait until the temperature column does not drop to minus 5 ° C, and night frosts to minus 10 ° C will not return.

During pruning, material is also collected for subsequent grafting fruit trees... Selected shoots are cut, grafted immediately, or stored in a cool dark place until sap flow begins.

The Basics of Successful Garden Pruning

start pruning before the start of sap flow;
first of all, free the tree from the shoots damaged during the cold weather, this is an extra load that only hinders the development of the plant;
remove dry and broken branches;
cover the cuts with garden pitch if branches with a diameter of more than 15 cm were cut;
first, domesticate the fruiting plants, and the young 10-15 days later.

Care and planting of seedlings

Inspection and treatment of trees in spring

If the frosts recede, remove the insulation from the boles. Examine the trees to see if they are intact, whether rodents have reached them.

If injured, treat the tree:

Peel the bark spoiled by mice and process it with iron vitriol (for this, a 5% solution is taken), then cover it with garden varnish.
The tree, which the hares have reached, takes more serious damage. In this case, "bridge" vaccinations are used.

Planting seedlings in spring

Start planting in the garden in the spring as soon as the snow recedes, 2 weeks before the growing season. Until the trees "wake up" planting will be more effective.

Check the soil so that it is not frozen, seedlings will not survive in such soil.
Dip the roots of the tree in a clay mash, this will strengthen the grip of the bottom of the tree to the ground.
Prepare pits for new plants in autumn, then you can fill them with fertilizers.
If fertilizers were not applied before winter, then put rotted manure at the bottom of the pit where you plant the tree. Apply a nitrogen-based fertilizer some time after planting.

Well done spring care will affect how trees and shrubs are prepared for the new season. A responsible approach to gardening will ensure a high result - a well-groomed, beautiful, healthy, fruitful garden.

As soon as the air begins to smell of spring, I want to go out in gardenand do something useful, like clean up.

Doesn't cut the eye too aesthetically shelterunder which the plants survived the winter. Hands themselves reach to get rid of them. How to “undress” the plants so as not to make mistakes?

Alas, a universal recipe for gardeners does not exist. This is a risky business, a mistake can lead to the death of the plant. If you open it early, the plants will freeze, if you are late, they will support it.

Much depends on the weather, climatic characteristics of your area and the microclimate of your site, the type of shelter, types of sheltered plants.

So let's take a closer look at the material of the site question: When to remove shelter from plants in spring?

General rules for getting rid of plants from shelters

First of all, the strategy and tactics of getting rid of shelters depends on the purpose for which we covered the plants. late autumn... Shelters serve two different purposes, although often both at the same time - to protect against winter cold, sunburn and physiological desiccation.

So, we focus on the weather and start to “undress” the plants when the night frosts weaken, the snow completely melts and a positive temperature is established. In the middle lane, this happens around the beginning to mid-April, the air temperature at this time is set at around 5 -10 ° C.

Removing shelters is a big stress for plants. To reduce it, we accustom the plants in advance to the fact that they will have to "walk" without clothes, we begin to harden them - to ventilate the shelters at a positive daytime air temperature, and in case of a cold snap we close again.

Airing helps to reduce humidity, but it does not replace drainage - if the plants are in a puddle, you will have to grab a shovel and make grooves to drain the melt water. Excessive moisture is the main spring hazard. Plants can die from damping, and a humid environment is favorable for the development of infections.

We remove the shelters gradually, layer by layer, stretching the procedure for several days. It is better to choose a cloudy day without precipitation and wind, or to remove shelters from the plant in the evening - this way we will smooth out fluctuations in illumination, and it will be easier for the plants to adapt.

For work, we need gloves (when working with roses, it is better to use special ones - thick ones), a wheelbarrow, a pitchfork, a rake (regular and fan). Some plants may need "first aid" - so we keep on hand a pruner and garden var or similar compositions.

If the sun

The dangerous period for evergreens is March and early April. At this time, the sun shines brightly like spring, and the snow reflects the sun's rays, increasing their negative influence many times over.

Most evergreens are less prone to frost than spring sunburn. This group includes many conifers, rhododendrons, mahonia and evergreen perennials.

Properly chosen landing site (with natural shading from aggressive midday rays and competent agricultural technology significantly reduce the risk of damage.

It should be remembered that susceptibility to sunburn largely depends on the variety, often the most beautiful varieties more vulnerable. Some species and varieties are especially badly burned, for example, the gray spruce (Picea glauca) "Conica".

Sunburn is not always noticeable immediately - the plants are vigorous and green, and after a while their outfit acquires a characteristic grayish-brown color and begins to crumble. Wrapped plants receive little light, so you cannot remove the shelter abruptly - the plants must rebuild their physiological processes, and this takes time.

On the first day, untie the top of the shelter and then remove layer by layer (ideally one layer a day). Even when you have completely stripped the plants, make a south-facing screen for a few days to shade out of the sun in the middle of the day.

With early removal of the shelter, evergreens also suffer from physiological drought: the roots are in the cold soil and are still sleeping, and the ground part heated by the sun has already woken up and began to evaporate moisture. To help the plants, we shade and water them. warm water (about 50 ° C) for the roots to work.

If frost

Roses, clematis and other heat-loving plants, most of which are unstable in a specific climatic zone, shelter from the winter cold. Roses suffer more from damping off than from frost. Therefore, take care of draining excess melt water, and when a positive air temperature is established, ventilate the shelter, if necessary (if you have a frame air dry shelter, open it from the ends).

After removing the shelter, it is necessary to shade the queen of flowers to avoid sunburn. We do not raise climbing and standard roses and clematis immediately, but when the soil finally thaws.

We rake off the soil from the root collar last, when the buds begin to swell (after about two weeks) - hilling will protect the root collar of roses in case of an unexpected return of cold weather.

We do this very carefully so as not to damage the awakened kidneys - with a small hoe, a scoop, or just with our hands in tight gloves. At the same time, we carry out the final spring pruning.

Ambulance for plants

Immediately after the final removal of the shelters, we carry out sanitary pruning of plants. Damaged shoots - frozen, podoprevny, eaten by rodents, affected by fungi, dry and broken - cut into a ring or a kidney until healthy tissue (you can not make a cut in the middle of the internode - the area to the underlying kidney will die off anyway and can become a breeding ground for infection).

We burn the cut off parts of the plants. We cover thick sections and frost holes (cracks in the bark) with garden pitch or similar compositions.

Prune clematis with extreme caution - they have very fragile shoots. If you have not pruned them in the fall or have forgotten what pruning is needed for a particular variety, wait until the buds swell and remove all excess.

It is also useful to carry out preventive treatment with fungicides, this is especially true for roses.

What to do next

What to do next depends on the material of the shelter. Reusable shelters (burlap, kraft paper, straw mats, reed rugs, boxes, designer “houses”) dry well in the sun and remove until autumn.

Nonwovens (lutrasil, spunbond and their analogs) can be used to shade exposed plants and save them from recurrent frost, which can damage buds and young shoots.

The foliage that we used for shelter is likely already decaying. So let it rot, but in a compost bin | to speed up the process, treat it with bacterial preparations).

Some of the foliage can be left near the plants by embedding it in the soil. If you used the shoots of herbaceous plants for shelter, then we send them to the fire along with the bald spruce branches. In this case, do not forget about safety precautions - dry shoots are placed on the fire in small portions - they instantly flare up and scatter even from a weak breeze.

If you do not have a specially equipped fireplace, then it is good to adapt for burning spring debris old barrel, and use the resulting ash as fertilizer.

Output: - After reading the article, we hope you received an answer to the question: When to remove shelter from plants in spring?

Every gardener faces a problem every year spring preparation garden after winter. Trees and shrubs require inspection, as well as carrying out the necessary procedures so that the expected harvest can be obtained in late summer or early autumn, so we will discuss the main stages of garden preparation, as well as talk about problems and their solutions.

Where to start

In early spring, when the temperature is rapidly approaching zero or above zero, we need to do a lot of work to prepare the fruit trees and shrubs. We start with snow removal... Many crops have fragile shoots, so the adhered melting snow, the mass of which is not so small, can damage shoots and young branches. To prevent this from happening, you need to walk around the garden and gently shake off the snow on the ground.

After you have removed the snow from the aboveground part of the plants, you should see the skeletal branches of trees and tall shrubs... If some of them caved in, care should be taken to build a support. As it, you can use welded in the shape of the letter "Y" iron bars or find a branch like a slingshot of sufficient length.

If the lower branches are bent, then they can be tied to the upper ones. At the same time, it should be understood that it should be tied up to skeletal thick branches that will exactly withstand the mass of the bent shoot. If a similar problem has arisen with a small shrub in height, then for a while all the shoots can be tied up in one bunch. When the snow melts, you can prune, or if everything goes right, the shoot will remain in the position in which you secured it.

Next, we need to take care of humidity of the site... If your garden is located on a slope, you need to create natural obstacles, otherwise the melt water will come down in the lowlands, and trees and shrubs will lose the necessary moisture.

Important! The melt water collected in the tank will help you save on watering costs. Also, such water is soft and contains trace elements, so it is better to save it.

To prevent this from happening, create small shafts from the melting snow across the site. So that the flowing water collides with an obstacle, and does not continue its movement along the slope.

Next, you should make sure that in the event of an appearance or, you have everything at hand. To do this, check supplies of poisons and other chemical substances that you used last year to combat uninvited guests... Many of them have a short shelf life, so you can automatically apply an expired chemical. The effectiveness of such a tool, as you understand, will be close to zero.
After the snow melts, you need to clean up the area from plant residues... Remove all leaves, twigs, dry grass, and take care of first weeds.

Inspection of fruit and berry crops

After the initial inspection, we proceed to identify possible problems with plants planted in the garden. It is impossible to hesitate, since the lack of timely intervention will lead to a decrease in yield or the death of a crop.

We start with the bark. We examine the shoots and trunk of plants for the presence scratches, cracks, burns, lack of bark... If there is damage, you need to find out the reason for their occurrence. If they are due to activity, then various poisons should be prepared in advance. If the problem was provoked by sunburn, we carry out whitewashing.
Cracks may appear on the branches and trunk. It is impossible to leave everything as it is, since a violation of the integrity of the shoot or trunk leads to further damage by pests. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly repair the crack. To do this, you should initially cut off the dead bark, and then remove the dead wood. If you do not do this, but simply repair the hole, the dead tissue will begin to decompose, causing rotting. It is necessary to peel off the dead tissue until the living wood and bark appear.

After stripping, you need to give time to dry. This will take 1-2 days, after which the "wound" needs to be treated and closed. Treat with any copper-containing substance, it is best to take or. At the end problem place smeared with a liquid clay solution or with special putty agents.

Video: cleaning and treating a wound on a fruit tree

Moving on to problems with broken or dry shoots. If you notice that some of the shoots on the tree are too dry, and they do not have live buds, then you need to take care of their removal. Cut dry branches with a hacksaw or secateurs. Cut it off until we see living tissue. The cut should be straight. After pruning, we must cover all the cuts so that the tree is not hit.

Separately, it is worth talking about what to do with the holes formed in the trunk. We will solve the problem in the same way as in the case of cracks. First, we clean the hollow of dead tissue, after which we carry out the treatment with copper-containing preparations and completely cover it with cement mortar.

Did you know? The most ancient garden in the world is Levens Hall, which is located in the northwest of England. The garden was created in the 17th century, while the trees that were planted at the time of foundation still grow in it.

Spring frost protection

Spring frosts are the most big problem, since they are able to destroy the crop even at the initial stage. Not only do they suffer small gardensbut also a huge planting from which products are delivered to many stores. Next, we will figure out and whether it is possible to do this.

This frost protection technology came to us from the USA. There, farmers acquire special installations that produce fog. It not only reduces visibility, but significantly increases the air temperature, which saves trees from a sharp drop in temperature. Of course, such installations are not cheap, but if you grow especially valuable crops, which will give a lot of expensive products, then it makes sense to purchase a similar installation in order to solve the problems with unexpected frosts for a dozen years.
Fumigation of the garden... It should be said right away that such a method saves only from small frosts. If the temperature drops below -5 ° C, then the smoke will not help your plants in the garden.

This is done as follows: at a distance of 4 meters from each shrub or tree, a small "hut" is built, which consists of thick logs and thin twigs for ignition, wet foliage or straw is superimposed on top of the "hut". After you set fire to such a "structure", it will begin to smoke heavily, causing the garden to fill with smoke. The smoke raises the temperature of the air, so the trees do not suffer from frost.

Video: frost fumigation using the example of grapes

Of course, you will have to fumigate the area for almost 12 hours, since frosts most often occur at night and last until morning or noon. At the same time, fumigation will not bring pleasure to your neighbors, and especially shy ones can call the fire department. For this reason, fires should be used with caution, especially after the snow has completely melted.

Important! Smokefires can be replaced with smoke bombs, which can also slightly increase the air temperature.

Bonfires... An open source of fire can raise the temperature, however, as you understand, this same source can cause many problems, because the trees themselves can suffer from fires if tongues of flame reach them. At high temperatures, branches and foliage dry out quickly, after which they begin to burn - as a result, you can simply burn your entire garden.
It only makes sense to light fires if you have collected a lot of plant residues that have nowhere to go. Then you can dispose of the garbage, and at the same time warm up the air a little. At the same time, you should not assume that such a remedy can save you from severe frosts, especially in the presence of wind.

Pruning fruit trees and bushes

Pruning is carried out only before the start of sap flow, that is, until the buds swell. If pruning is done later, the tree will be severely damaged, and tree sap will begin to stand out at the cut points. It would seem that everything is clear, there are no problems, but sap flow begins at different times even in the same region, so you need to know exactly when to prune so as not to cut the plants when the first unformed leaves begin to appear on them.

It is also worth noting that sap flow in some crops may begin earlier, while in others - later, which causes serious difficulties in the case of working with a large garden.

Why pruning is carried out:

To form the crown of a young plant.
For removing old shoots that do not yield a good harvest.
To remove diseased branches that were not cut at the first examination.

As for the differences in pruning young and old trees.

Young trees need crown formation, since they need to be given the desired appearance every year in order to eventually get mature tree with a beautiful and easy-to-collect crown.

Mature and old trees need to, as their crown has already formed. Old 2-3-year-old shoots are removed annually, which bear fruit poorly and cause thickening of the crown. As a result, the plant accelerates growth and the formation of new shoots, on which more buds are tied, and as a result, more fruits are formed.

Separately, it should be said that the most productive are those branches that branch off to the sides. Vertical shoots do not have a good yield, and hanging ones do not really bear fruit at all. This is due to the fact that the horizontal branches receive more sunlight, so more fruits ripen on them, which have a better taste.

Pruning trees

Did you know? The ones that are familiar to us can boast the longest life expectancy garden trees... Homemade can live up to 120 years, and many varieties will grow for 2-3 centuries. Moreover, the life expectancy of the same is only 20 years.

We start by removing all old shoots in early spring. They will die anyway, so we don't need them. Removal should be carried out before young branches appear. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to shorten the upper part of the shoots, since the berries are formed on the side branches, and the growth of the main branches upwards reduces the yield. Pinching is carried out after the shoots have reached a length of 90 cm.
Also, pruning is carried out if the shoots lie on the ground under the weight of leaves and berries. In this case, the main shoot should be shortened, otherwise the products will begin to rot after contact with the soil.

Top dressing of horticultural crops

Moving on to an important topic that concerns feeding plants in the garden. We will talk about all crops, so we will consider those fertilizers that both shrubs and shrubs need. different types and varieties.