Our grandmothers, growing strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today, this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Someone may say that this is troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we offer you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that the “kids” have always been considered more fashionable, the assortment of succulents that can be used to decorate a modern interior is worth a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterning, pricklyness, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will talk about the five most fashionable succulents that wonderfully transform modern interiors.

The Egyptians used mint for another 1,500 years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, in decorative gardening, in the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in open ground.

People began to grow crocuses another 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we are always looking forward to the return of the messengers of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article is about the earliest crocus species that bloom in late March or early April.

Cabbage soup from early young cabbage on beef broth is hearty, flavorful and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook a delicious beef broth and prepare light cabbage soup on this broth. Early cabbage is cooked quickly, so it is put in a pan along with the rest of the vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready-made cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup tastes better than just cooked.

Peering into the variety of tomato varieties, it’s hard not to get lost - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners, he sometimes confuses! However, it’s not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties “for oneself”. The main thing is to delve into the features of culture and start experimenting. Varieties and hybrids with limited growth are one of the easiest to grow tomato groups. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have much energy and time to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of house nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleus today are one of the most striking garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered to be stars of the first magnitude for those who seek first of all non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so demanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, bushes of velvety unique leaves easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon ridge baked in Provence herbs is a “supplier” of tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh leaves of wild garlic. Champignons are lightly fried in olive oil, and then watered with apple cider vinegar. Such mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Wild garlic and fresh dill coexist perfectly in one salad, emphasizing the aroma of each other. Garlic spicy garlic permeates both the flesh of salmon and slices of mushrooms.

A coniferous tree or shrub on a site is always healthy, and many conifers are even better. Emerald needles of various shades adorn the garden at any time of the year, and volatile and essential oils secreted by plants not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, the majority of zoned adult conifers are considered to be very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics under the canopy of flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when magnificent sakura blossoms. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

It is very interesting for me to analyze how people's tastes and addictions to certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was a commodity was losing its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC e. about 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.

Please your household and make thematic curd cookies in the shape of Easter eggs! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such an original cookie for Easter, read our step-by-step recipe!

Among tuber crops, decorative leafy pets are not so many. And Caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of the interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But nevertheless, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of the Caladiums never justify. Attention and care can avoid any difficulties in the cultivation of caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply basic dish in cooking for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it will suit every side dish: vegetables, pasta, and anything else. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you do not want to particularly think about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this beforehand so that everything is hot), add gravy and lunch is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these popular vegetables, we will talk about three that are distinguished by excellent taste and relatively unpretentious growing conditions. Characteristics of eggplant varieties "Diamond", "Black Beauty" and "Valentine". All eggplants have medium density pulp. At "Diamond" it is greenish, and at other two - yellowish-white. They are united by good germination and excellent productivity, but at different times. The skin color and shape are different for everyone.

If you want to grow a large garden with fruit trees, our article will help you find answers to all questions about gardening. You will learn how to plant seedlings correctly, take care of them depending on the season, and prune fruit trees in spring to maintain yield.

  Planting garden fruit trees

Novice gardeners often make a common mistake, namely, they incorrectly plant garden crops.

Note:   Digging a hole, inserting a seedling into it and sprinkling it with earth is far from all that is needed for rooting and growth. In order for the culture to take root, you need to choose the right place, prepare the site and transplant in accordance with all the rules.

Planting horticultural crops is best done in early spring, when the soil warms up. In some cases, autumn planting is also allowed, but in this case, the seedling must be looked after more carefully so that it has time to take root and grow stronger in winter.

Proper landing is done like this(picture 1):

• The seedling is inspected for damage and all dry or injured roots are removed;
• The site has been prepared since the fall: deep digging is carried out, weeds are removed and organic fertilizers are applied (best of all - rotted manure);
• Make holes for planting. In areas with good drainage, you can simply dig a hole in the ground, but if the soil is too wet, it is better to land in small mounds;
• When preparing the pit, the fertile soil is folded separately. Later it is used to fill the hole.

   Figure 1. Proper planting of garden crops

It is important to make a hole of a suitable size. In it, straightened roots should fit freely. After placing the seedling in the hole, the roots are sprinkled with fertile soil, watered and compact the soil. When the water is absorbed, you can water again. In the future, it is necessary to observe the seedling in order to fertilize in time, water or spray the culture from diseases and pests.

From the video you will learn how to properly vaccinate fruit trees.

  Seedling care

In order for the garden to be fruitful, and young plants take root more quickly, they need to be constantly looked after.

Basic seedling care includes(figure 2):

1. Caring for trunks   includes the gradual expansion of the treated soil located around the trunk. Since the root system is growing rapidly, the space is increased annually, surface loosening in the spring and deep digging by forks in the fall are carried out. In summer, weeds that can interfere with the development of the seedling are removed from the trunk circles.
2. Watering   plays an important role in rooting seedlings. In a temperate climate, it is enough to water 2-3 times a week, but if drought has begun and there is no natural rainfall, moisture is applied daily (mainly in the evening).
3. Fertilizer application   especially important when planting on soils with low fertility. Nutrients, getting into the soil, are absorbed by the roots, and the tree grows more actively and begins to bear fruit earlier.

   Figure 2. The main stages of fruit care: pruning, whitewashing trunks, watering and installing supports for branches

Young seedlings are also required to inspect for the presence of symptoms of diseases and pest larvae. This will allow timely spraying to maintain the viability of the culture. Pruning is also carried out annually to form crowns and stimulate the formation of new shoots.

Features of caring for fruit trees are described in detail in the video.

  Fruit trees for the garden: names and photos

Among the popular garden trees, many species are distinguished. Unfortunately, not all of them are suitable for cultivation in a temperate climate. For example, citrus and subtropical can only be grown in the warm southern regions.

The most common are such types of fruit trees and fruit bushes.(figure 3):

• Pomegranates (pears, apple trees, quinces, irgi and mountain ash);
• Stone fruits (cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, etc.);
• Oreous (walnuts and hazelnuts, almonds);
• Berry (strawberries, strawberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.).

   Figure 3. Popular types of garden crops: 1 - pome seeds, 2 - stone fruits, 3 - walnut, 4 - berry

Also in the gardens you can grow rose hips, sea buckthorn, mulberry, honeysuckle and hawthorn. The variety of species is very large, and thanks to the work of breeders, it was possible to develop varieties resistant to temperature extremes and diseases.

  Varieties

One of the most important conditions for successful cultivation of horticultural crops is the right choice of variety. All bred crops are tested over many years for compliance with the soil and climatic conditions of the region. Therefore, for each climatic zone its own varieties are provided.

Winter-hardy varieties are considered to be the best, since they are well established in any climate, and a decrease in temperature does not affect yield.

Among the best winter-hardy varieties distinguish:

• Apple trees Antonovka, Grushovka Moscow and Medunitsa;
• Pears Lada, Chizhovskaya and Cathedral;
• Plum Amusing, Hungarian Moscow and Blue Gift.

There are also winter-hardy varieties of cherries (Molodezhnaya, Pamyat Enakieva) and cherries (Bryanskaya pink, Tyutchevka, etc.).

  Fertilizers for planting fruit trees

Acclimatization of seedlings depends on fertilizers that were applied during planting.

Note:   When preparing the hole, the top (fertile) soil layer is removed and not mixed with the rest of the soil extracted from the pit. This land is later used to fill the space inside the hole.

Traditionally, organic and mineral fertilizers are used during planting. From organic fertilizers, rotted manure and compost can be used. Fresh organics can not be used, since the release of ammonia during the decomposition process can provoke decay of the roots.

Of mineral fertilizers, when planting, you can use any means, except for preparations containing nitrogen. Such top dressing reduces the rate of plant survival. Nitrogen-containing preparations are added later when the seedling is acclimatized.

  Early spring fruit tree care

Basic spring garden care includes pruning. First of all, shoots and branches damaged by frost are removed.

Preventive spraying is also carried out until the awakening of the kidneys. Most often they use diesel fuel for this. It does no harm to the seedling, covering it with an oily film, which blocks the access to oxygen to the larvae.

  Care Rules

The main rules of care include whitewashing and pruning (Figure 4). After inspection of trunks and branches, all damaged parts are removed. It is also necessary to remove the shelters and inspect the trunks for damage. If there are wounds on the trunk or branches, they are cleaned of the remnants of the bark, treated with copper sulfate and covered with garden varnish.

Whitewashing trunks performs several functions. Firstly, it destroys the larvae of pests that overwintered under the bark. Secondly, it protects the bark from sunburn.

   Figure 4. Rules for garden care in the spring

In addition, in the spring, complex mineral fertilizers are introduced into the basal circles, which will help the plants maintain their productivity and obtain the necessary nutrients from the soil.

  Features

Among the features of spring garden care can be identified preventive spraying against pests. They are carried out in several stages. The first time the treatment is carried out during the dormant period, when sap flow did not start in the trunk and branches. The second time they start processing is during the flowering period, using special chemicals for this. All of these activities help protect crops from pests and diseases.

In the fall, they not only harvest, but also begin to prepare the garden for winter. It is not worth neglecting winter procedures, since their quality depends on how successfully the crops will tolerate the cold season and retain the ability to bear fruit.

  Care Rules

In autumn, garden crops require such care (Figure 5):

• After harvest   trunk circles completely clear of leaves, fruit debris and dry branches. Any organic matter on the surface of the soil will begin to rot and may cause infection by the fungus.
• Under the root   make potash and phosphorus fertilizers. This will help the plants gain strength before winter. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not recommended, as they activate growth and prevent plants from entering dormancy.
• After stopping sap flow   carry out pruning. But if the trees were not damaged, this point can be omitted, since not all cultures normally tolerate the removal of branches immediately before the onset of cold weather.

   Figure 5. Autumn garden care and preparation of plants for winter

It is also advisable to re-whiten the trunks with lime and spray the garden with insecticides.

  Features

The main goal of autumn care is to prepare the trees for winter. After collecting the entire crop, they surely clean the trunk circles from leaves and dry branches, loosen the soil and make potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Autumn pruning is carried out only if necessary (for example, if diseased or damaged branches were found), so as not to expose the plant to stress before winter. Mandatory care also includes whitewashing trunks and warming young crops. They are wrapped with insulating material, and the trunk circles are covered with mulch. This will help protect plants from frostbite.

Also on the territory lay bait for rodents, which can damage the bark in winter.

  Pruning fruit trees in spring: a diagram

Pruning in the spring, carried out according to the correct scheme, will help to accelerate the growth of crops, preserve their productivity and help prevent the development of diseases.

Note:   Pruning can be carried out in winter, but only in the absence of severe frosts. If the temperature drops below -8 degrees, you can’t remove the branches, as the resulting wound can lead to the death of the whole plant.

There are several types of pruning that can be done in spring.(Figure 6):

• Sanitary   involves the removal of all damaged and diseased branches. It is this procedure that is carried out in early spring, during the inspection of crops after winter.
• Anti-aging   Helps maintain the yield of old specimens. In this case, the old branches are removed, which already practically do not bear fruit. In their place, new ones with young fruitful shoots are formed.
• Crown shaping   more suitable for young seedlings, branches on which grow randomly. The main goal of the procedure is to form a crown of the correct form and free the central part of the trunk from unnecessary branches to activate fruiting.

   Figure 6. Types of spring pruning

For cutting use only sharp garden tools: secateurs and special hacksaws, with which you can make an accurate and even cut.

  When to start cropping

Regardless of the climatic zone, the period when to start pruning in the spring depends on temperature and weather conditions.

Note:   The basic rule is to remove branches when the tree is at rest. So it will experience less stress, and the wound will heal faster.

As a rule, spring pruning begins in March. At this time, the movement of juice has not yet begun, but the kidneys are already ready for awakening, so the wounds will heal quickly, and the plant will not experience severe stress.

  Pruning rules

The main rule of spring pruning is to determine in time the moment when the tree is still sleeping, but the buds are ready to open. So you will fulfill several important conditions at once: remove excess or damaged branches without stress for the culture, and accelerate wound healing.

Among the basic rules can be identified such:

• For work, use only sharp garden tools (sectors and hacksaws) so that the cut is smooth. The hacksaw that you use for cutting cannot be used for construction or other work.
• It is desirable to carry out pruning in warm, calm weather so that the cut point is not damaged by cold air and wind.
• After the procedure, the place of cut is covered with garden varnish, and the trunk is bleached with lime.

Observing these simple rules, you can easily maintain the vitality of trees, renew old plants and activate the growth of young ones.

  Pruning fruit trees in winter

Contrary to popular belief, in winter trees are not only possible, but also need to be pruned. The only contraindication is severe frost. If the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the branches should never be removed. The resulting wound will heal for a very long time, and the plant may die.

However, winter pruning has several important advantages. Firstly, the tree is at rest and does not experience severe stress. Secondly, branches deprived of leaves are much easier to process and inspect, so the cut can be made more accurate and even.

The place of cut must be covered with garden varnish to protect healthy tissues from hypothermia or damage.

  Pruning fruit trees in winter: a video for beginners

Since winter pruning has some features, certain rules must be observed for its implementation.

If you have never deleted branches in winter before, we recommend that you watch a video that will help you carry out the procedure correctly, while maintaining the productivity and vitality of the culture.

Vaccination and re-grafting is one of the main stages of gardening care (Figure 7). Vaccination is a method of vegetative propagation of fruit crops. A seedling grown from seeds in most cases does not retain varietal characteristics, therefore it is inoculated (a kidney or a stalk is transferred from another culture). After splicing, the gardener receives a full-fledged varietal tree.

   Figure 7. Features of vaccination and re-vaccination

Re-vaccination has much in common with vaccination, with the exception of one significant difference. A stem with implanted buds from another variety or even a plant is implanted into the trunk. As a result, the main tree will develop and bear fruit separately, and at the place of re-grafting a full-fledged shoot will grow that will bear fruit of its own variety.

Note:   By re-grafting, crops can be successfully grown that cannot be traditionally cultivated by climatic or soil conditions.

Before spring, fruit tree trunks are rubbed with milk of lime. In addition, the white color reflects the sun's rays, which avoids overheating during intense sun exposure and a sharp drop in temperature at night, especially below zero.

A moisture-proof bowl around the tree in spring is covered with dry soil, compost, peat or plant debris, this prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture.

During the growing season, especially during dry periods, fruit trees are carefully and abundantly watered. Watering often, but little by little, is useless. Moisture does not reach the roots, lingering in the surface layer of the earth, on which a crust then forms. To retain moisture around the tree, even before its flowering begins, it is useful to lay peat, straw manure or grass with a layer of 5-10 cm.

If a tree does not bloom in the spring, it must be dug out of the ground, the roots shortened, and for a few days (best in the cellar) dipped, the roots in water or covered with damp earth. Only after it turns green can it be re-planted in the ground.

During the growing season, especially after rain (before the formation of a dried earth crust), the soil around the tree must be finely loosened several times. Loosening is necessary in May-July, when shoots and fruits are formed mainly. In August and September, the soil is not disturbed, which provides better ripening and staining of the fruit.

In autumn, the earth is dug up around a tree to a depth of no more than 10 cm, and in row spacing - up to 15 cm. Around the tree, digging is carried out only with a pitchfork, which does not damage the roots so much. Even better than loosening, shallow digging. In summer, loosening the earth is generally not recommended. After the soil dries in the spring, it is treated with the back of the rake (also in order to reduce moisture loss from evaporation).

To enrich the soil with humus, various plants can be grown under fruit trees. For this purpose, field peas, fodder vetch, white mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, white clover, multifloral chaff, annual ryegrass, etc., are most suitable for this purpose, and lupine on sandy soils.

Sowing material is applied from early July to early August in moist soil. Plants are planted only in spring. In winter, this planting material protects the soil from severe freezing and helps to better retain snow. It is not recommended to grow green plants in areas with rainfall below 500 mm, as well as in young fruit plantings.

Between newly planted trees, vegetables can be grown, and between dwarf plantings when they have not reached 3 years, and among the higher seedlings - up to 8 years. The most suitable vegetables for this purpose are bush beans, peas, lettuce, early cauliflower, kohlrabi, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes, carrots and early potatoes. However, you can’t plant vegetables directly under the fruit trees.

Fertilizer

The basis of fertilizer fruit trees are organic fertilizers. Typically, well-caked or composted manure is used; in autumn it is introduced into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm or over the entire cultivation area under the trees, sometimes according to the diameter of the crowns for each tree. Lighter soils are fertilized annually or a year later, and heavy soils are fertilized once every 3-4 years. Under weakly growing trees make large doses of fertilizer. Instead of manure introduced in autumn, often in spring, compost can also be used. Dry bird droppings (100-200 g per 1 m 2) are also used.

At the same time as organic fertilizers, mineral and chemical fertilizers should be applied to the soil. If green plants are grown under the trees, the dose of manure or compost can be reduced by half.

One tree aged 2-3 years requires 12-15 kg of fertilizer; every year the dose of fertilizers increases, i.e. for an eight-year-old tree it requires 40-50 kg, and older trees with a crown diameter of 6 m consume 120-160 kg of fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are used taking into account the reaction of the soil, age and fruitfulness of the tree. In autumn, when plowing the soil, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are usually applied so that these substances are already absorbed during the growing season. With the onset of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are added. You can use combined fertilizers in the fall and spring, which gives a tangible effect. During the growing process, nitrogenous fertilizers are additionally applied, and they are applied shallowly into the soil.

In that year, when the soil is fertilized with the full volume of compost or manure, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half. If the trees grow too violently, and the shoots ripen poorly, the amount of nitrogenous fertilizers applied is reduced, and more phosphorus and sulfur fertilizers are added. If previous crops are grown under trees, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased in accordance with their need.

To feed weakly growing trees, it is allowed to apply liquid fertilizers during the growing season. Fermented bird or rabbit droppings diluted in 10 parts of water are useful, for example. You can use a solution of complete fertilizers that dissolve well in water. These liquid fertilizers are poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep around the crown circumference. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the grooves are leveled.

Lime is added to the soil in accordance with its reaction. It is especially necessary for stone fruits; berry crops are less demanding in this regard. It should not be overlooked that calcium fertilizers and manure, as well as superphosphate and chemical nitrogen fertilizers, cannot be administered simultaneously.

In acute deficiency of nutrients, when their supply from the soil is somehow limited (waterlogged ground, damaged roots), it is recommended to spray the leaves with a nutrient solution. 400 g of ammonium nitrate with limestone or 500-600 g of urea, 500-600 g of potassium bisulfate and an extract of 3-4 kg of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 l of water. The most favorable for such spraying is the period after flowering. With a clear lack of nutrients, spraying is repeated one or two more times after 10-14 days. As necessary, such sprayings are combined with spraying against diseases and pests of trees.

Protection against diseases and pests

The best defense is prevention. If you create good conditions for fruit plants and take care of them accordingly, they will not cause the gardener much trouble.

And if you also foresee everything to attract as your helpers and birds, then your worries will be completely reduced. To do this, it’s enough to install bird feeders in the garden for the winter, replenish the feeders with food, and for some useful birds, put bird houses and birdhouses so that the birds take them directly to the chicks site. Birds will repay the owners with good - they will do useful work: the destruction of pests.

If you still have any controversial issues, you need to try to find out the cause and, after consulting with a specialist, make appropriate adjustments for the care of the garden and in the fight against pests. Chemicals are used only as a last resort.

A healthy, flowering garden, bringing a rich harvest largely depends on proper, quality care, especially in the spring. The time to awaken all life is important and troublesome for gardeners. Perform all work depending on weather conditions and climatic zone.

First work in the garden

Work in the garden begins with the liberation of the branches of the plantations from melt snow, if at the end of winter rainfall was abundant. From the spring sun, the snow becomes loose and heavy, it can easily break thin branches. To avoid this, shake it off. If the branches have already bent and fell, erect supports to support them.

The following tip is relevant for slopes. So that the meltwater lingers, and the flood does not erode the soil, build shafts of snow across the slope.

Stock up with melt water - it is rich in useful trace elements. For this, the containers need to be filled with snow and added as it melts.

With the advent of spring, not only vegetation wakes up - rodents and pests are ready to activate. Inspect existing bait poisons; if necessary, prepare new ones.

Snow has disappeared - start cleaning the garden. Collect old leaves and other debris, get rid of weeds if they appeared.

Whitewashing - protecting horticultural crops

How to whiten trees

Before the snow melts completely and the trees “wake up”, select a dry day and whitewash.

Before work, prepare the trees with damage: clean the trunk with a brush, remove the dead bark, at the same time wintering and remaining pests will be destroyed. Growths, lichens are also cleaned off. Coat all opened cracks with garden var. Whitewash after completely drying the treated areas.

Early whitewashing is a double benefit to the tree:

1. It will prevent burns that may appear on the bark from bright spring rays, therefore only white is used.
2. Protects the tree trunk from pests.

Which solution to apply, choose for yourself. Rain is not terrible for acrylic paint - this whitewash is the most persistent. You can use special store solutions and self-prepared, with the addition of any adhesive.

How to whiten fruit trees

The most common is lime whitewashing:

• 2.5 kg of lime is bred on a bucket of water;
• half a liter of copper sulfate;
• wood glue is added - 200 grams so that the solution on the tree lasts longer.

Whitewash based on manure and lime:

• 1 kg of lime and manure;
• 200 grams of copper sulfate;
• mix these components in 8 l of water, leave for about 2 hours.

Clay-based whitewash solution:

• mix 10 kg of oily clay in 10 l of water;
• 2 kg of slaked lime;
• shovel of cow manure;
• 250 grams of copper sulfate.

Insist 2 hours. Blanch young trees with a mixture of chalk and the base, under this solution the bark will breathe freely.

Spraying trees and shrubs in the garden

Caring for the garden in the spring is a mandatory prevention of pests and disease control.

When to process trees

Treat fruit crops with special preparations at least 3 times:

• before the growing season (swelling of the kidneys);
• before flowering;
• 7-10 days after flowering.

How to spray fruit trees

Early spraying of trees with Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate, urea, (urea) will save plants from many problems. There are other means of processing: chemical, combined, but the above are effective and one of the most budgetary. Which drug to choose is decided by the gardener.

1. Start the first treatment when the temperature has reached 5 ° C heat. During this period, spraying will destroy successfully overwintered pests.
2. The use of special preparations before flowering will help protect buds, cope with pest larvae and fungal diseases.
3. The following treatment is needed to destroy the emerging insects and fruit rot.

Remember that during flowering, spraying trees is not recommended.

Feeding trees

Garden care includes spring top dressing of trees, contributing to nutrition and improving soil quality. All the necessary elements for plant growth are obtained through mineral fertilizers, so do not forget about them every year. Organic: compost, peat, manure is enough to use once every 2 to 3 years. Usually in the spring the soil is fed with nitrogen, and in the fall manure, phosphorus, and potassium are used.

Fertilization dates

Apply the first fertilizer in March. Mineral mixtures dissolve well, they can be sprinkled on snow. Together with melt water, nutrients are absorbed into the earth. On a plot with a slope, such top dressing will not be effective: it will be carried away by melt water.

Another option is relevant for all fruit crops: bring in 2/3 of the dose of nitrogen fertilizers when you dig the trunk circles.

Dosage of organic and mineral fertilizers for the garden

Be attentive to the fertilizer application process: fruiting trees will be adversely affected by both a deficiency and an excess of minerals. For example, the non-standardization of such a useful element as nitrogen can affect frost resistance and overall plant growth.

More accurate fertilizer application data are shown in the table.

  Table 1. Dose of fertilizer per fruit tree

Planting year	Barrel circle diameter, m	Organic fertilizers, kg	Mineral fertilizers, g
			Nitrogen	Phosphorus	Potassium
2nd	2,0	6	10	10	15
3rd, 4th	2,5	10	20	20	30
5th, 6th	3,0	15	30	30	45
7th, 8th	3,5	20	60	40	60
9th, 10th	4,0	25	75	50	75
11th, 12th	5,0	40	120	80	150

In addition to mineral fertilizers for feeding, use organic matter: manure and compost. Rotten manure improves soil properties. Clay in structure become less viscous, and light, loose increase their moisture capacity. Organic fertilizers not only positively affect the soil, but also nourish with useful elements.

Valentina Kravchenko, expert

How to fertilize plants

Do not feed young plants, begin this useful process from the second year of the life of trees.

When applying fertilizer, consider the following factors:

• plants better absorb the liquid form of fertilizers;
• do not fertilize near the trunk: roots that absorb nutrients are located around the perimeter of the branches;
• lay fertilizer in the evening or on a cloudy day;
• so that the roots do not get burned, moisten the soil first, only then apply liquid fertilizers;
• keep the earth near the tree in a loose state, so the plant “breathes” better;
• after applying dry fertilizers, water the near-trunk section along with top dressing.

Trimming - effective sanitation

Trees and shrubs that were not trimmed during their growth look worse, age faster, and their productivity decreases.

When to prune fruit trees

Finish all cropping work before the kidneys begin to swell. Before performing the procedure, wait until the temperature column does not drop to minus 5 ° C, and night frosts to minus 10 ° C will not return.

During pruning, material is also collected for subsequent grafting of fruit trees. Selected shoots are cut, grafted immediately or stored in a cool dark place until sap flow.

The basics of successful pruning garden plants

• pruning start before the sap flow;
• first of all, free the tree from shoots damaged during the cold weather, this is an extra load that only impedes the development of the plant;
• remove dry and broken branches;
• coat the slices with garden varieties if branches with a diameter of more than 15 cm are cut;
• first, cultivate fruiting plants, and young growth 10-15 days later.

Care and planting seedlings

Inspection and treatment of trees in spring

If the frost recedes, remove the insulation from the poles. Inspect the trees, whether they have been preserved intact, whether rodents have reached them.

If injured, treat the tree:

1. Strip the bark, damaged by mice, and treat with iron sulphate (for this a 5% solution is taken), then coat with garden varnish.
2. The tree that the hares got to takes more serious damage. In this case, apply vaccinations "bridge".

Planting seedlings in spring

Start planting in the garden in the spring, as soon as the snow recedes, 2 weeks before the growing season. Until the trees “wake up” the planting will be more efficient.

• Check the soil so that it is not frozen, seedlings in such a land will not survive.
• Dip the roots of the tree in a clay mash, this will strengthen the adhesion of the bottom of the tree to the ground.
• Prepare pits for new plants in the fall, then you can fill them with fertilizers.
• If fertilizers were not applied before winter, then fill the rotten manure to the bottom of the pit where you are planting the tree. After some time after planting, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer.

A good spring care will affect how the trees and shrubs will be prepared for the new season. A responsible approach to work in the garden will provide a high result - a well-groomed, beautiful, healthy, fruitful garden.

Fruit trees after winter damage

Apple tree “changes the skin”

Spring is just around the corner. She brings a lot of joy to amateur gardeners. Plants hid in anticipation, anticipating clear sunny days ...

Unfortunately, spring brings not only joy to our gardens, but also problems. One of the most troublesome and painful -   winter damage to trees. How to treat our green friends? The answer to this question can be found in almost all gardening books. But many of the recommendations are quite complex, not accessible to the average summer resident.

I decided to describe a few proven techniques from my practice. The methods that I propose are quite effective. Even beginner gardeners can take them into service.

Bridges and rings

One of the most destructive is ring damage to the bark of young trees. It occurs, as a rule, through the fault of hungry and toothy mice.

Classic repair method-   vaccination with a bridge. But she is only capable of an experienced gardener. And even that does not always bring success.

Textbooks are usually full of drawings. The bridges on them stretch up-   therefore, the mice nibbled the bark at a decent height. But on my site, everything happened exactly the opposite. The bark of the tree was damaged below, at the very root neck. For the installation of bridge-cuttings there was practically no place. But I still tried. The bridges did not take root, and the tree died.

This incident taught me a lot, prompting me to look for other ways. I began to heal ring injuries by applying bark from a healthy branch of another tree. He did this in early spring, at the beginning of intense sap flow. The result is excellent, and the first time.

Donor and patient

I act like that. First I harvest a piece of the branch, preferably-   without branching, and be sure to-   with healthy bark. This is a donor.

I clean the damaged area of \u200b\u200bthe “patient tree” to healthy wood, treat it with a weak solution of iron sulfate. I outline the height of the insert by moving 0.5-1 cm up and down from the most remote places of damage. I cut a rectangular sheet from any dense material, the width of which is equal to the height of the insert. The length should not be less than the diameter of the trunk of the repaired tree.

This sheet serves as a template for sizing the transplant insert. Having wrapped the donor branch with this template, I draw ring cuts to the ends of the wood. I take it off and make a longitudinal incision. Having wrapped the wound with a template, I make annular cuts and remove the remnants of the cortex along the edges of the damaged area, exposing the cambium.

I prepare the bark from the branch for transplantation and place it on the site of damage. If necessary, add another piece of bark until the surface is completely closed. I tightly tie a “patch” of a strip of film (it is better to use polyethylene, then it will be easier for you to check the accuracy of the fit of the bark). To protect from sunlight, I close the harness with a white film or paper.

Unilateral non-annular damage to the cortex is usually easier to treat. They clean the wounds, cover them with garden var. And they calmly wait for them to heal. But keep in mind that with a large area of \u200b\u200bdamage, a hollow may appear in their place. Such wounds are best treated in the way I described. Only a curly pattern for cutting the bark will be of a different size and configuration.

Look at the photo at the top of the page. On her-   young apple tree. The picture was taken in the spring of next year after a repair carried out by an annular insertion of the bark from two pieces (under a branch) and the cortex-shield (at the root neck). Groove on the front of the flap-   not a flaw at all, but the result of a mismatch of the bark over the entire thickness. At the bottom, the surface of the damage is completely covered by new bark.

Now imagine what a tree with cuttings-bridges would look like. Awkward, right? And after the method that I use, in a year or two even no traces will remain on the tree. So choose what you like best! Two years after such a repair, the mice completely nibbled the tree bark above the insert. May ask-   What kind of gardener is this who leaves his pets to be torn to pieces by rodents? But what do you want to do? The site is far from home, in the winter it is abandoned, as they say, by chance. One way or another, I had to cut the tree, reluctantly. And what do you think? The longitudinal and transverse sections of the cortex were completely clean, without any spoilage. By the way, in this way you can not only treat a tree, but also reduce its growth. There is information from experts that a change in the polarity of the bark of the stem on a site with a height of 10-20 cm helps to reduce the height of the plant. We cut out the bark of the required size with the ring and make the insert “feet up”, that is, aligning the upper edge of the ring with the lower edge of the cutout.

Tree without a trunk

I am often asked: what if the tree needs to be removed from the trunk? The need for such an operation is most often associated with freezing or sunburn of the bark of a young seedling. Such incidents are not uncommon, especially in winters with frequent thaws. The bark may freeze due to the gardener's excessive care-   when the tree is overfed, and it does not have time to prepare for winter.

The sun can dry the young stem of a seedling. Given this, it is better to play it safe: forming skeletal branches, leave one below, in reserve. In winter, it will be covered with snow and will be preserved anyway. And you can remove it after the tree begins to bear fruit.

Usually the trunk is damaged above this branch. In this case, it is she who will be the basis for the formation of the crown.

We cut the trunk with a well-sharpened garden hacksaw. Secateurs should not be used, even if the tree is completely “thin”-   he crumpled from it. By the way, in order to avoid this incident, you can also wrap the bark with adhesive tape, which will protect it from delamination. Now, stepping back a little, cut the trunk into a ring.

At a short distance from the stem, we drive a stake into the ground. It should be opposite the branch we left. Between the stake and the tree we install a spacer bar. To prevent a branch from breaking when it is straightened, we firmly tie the tree to the stake: by the bottom of the branch, putting a piece of dense material so that the bark does not wrinkle. Carefully bending the branch up, bring the bottom to a vertical position and fix the garter to the stake. The upper part of the branch also bends to the stake.

Behind the branch, a short distance from it, we drive in the second count. Straightening the branch, we tie it to a new support, just above the previous garter. Now we are carrying out a garter-   now to one stake, then to another, completely straightening the branch. And its thin upper end is fixed in an upright position between two supports, tying it with a twine twist.

In this way, you can straighten the branch not only in the vertical, but also in the horizontal plane. In this case, the lateral branches are evenly spread in different directions with the help of stakes and twine. Thus, we form the skeletal branches of the tree.

If in one season it was not possible to straighten the branch at the base, you should periodically, with an interval of 2-3 weeks, pull the lower harnesses. The branch will gradually straighten.

When will the kidney wake up?

Consider other cases. If there is no branch damage below the site, the trunk should be cut to a well-developed kidney. The escape developing from it, do not forget to tie it to the stake in a timely manner-   this will protect him from breaking.

If there is no branch or kidney below the damaged area, the trunk should be cut arbitrarily, to clean wood and covered with garden var. And then wait for the awakening of the sleeping kidney (the process can last until mid-summer). It is important not to miss the moment of her awakening. Usually a sleeping kidney is thick and grassy. It is loosely attached to the barrel, holding on as if on the tip of a needle. Therefore, in the stage of the green cone, it needs to be wrapped with a film in the form of a funnel (under the kidney - tightly, higher-   free). Then the escape will be well preserved and will not go away from the trunk. And when he grows up, he should be tied to a stake. Next season, it will be possible to begin the formation of the crown of the tree.