Why the rose doesn't bloom: we save the queen of the garden. Why does not the rose bloom Climbing rose does not

A rose is a royal flower, even if it is just one rose, but what can be compared to a million roses? ... How to get a really grandiose, lush, rich bloom, and not just a few buds? Read about it below.

Blooming dates of garden roses

Climbing roses (in the photo below, a famous representative of this group is a rose) bloom in waves. The start of flowering falls on early summer... Flowering occurs throughout the month, many shoots grow and at the time of flowering the whole bush is strewn with flowers, then decline, and then flowering is gaining strength again. And also there is a hybrid of a climbing rose with a hybrid tea - Climber, they bloom 1-2 times per season. Climbing roses of Cordes will bloom until late autumn, like.

Climbing rose Rosarium Uterson. Photo from ogorodsadovod.com

The hybrid tea rose begins to bloom from mid-June and continues to bloom until late autumn... Its striking feature is that there are no even the slightest interruptions, flowering continues without interruptions.

Thus, it should be distinguished when the rose took a natural pause for it (study the information about the variety and about the variety), and when there are any problems in care.

Reasons for the lack of flowers

Here we will look at errors that cannot be resolved in one go. The solution to these problems will require cardinal ones: transplanting, digging, time for plant restoration, study of literature, etc.

The very first rule is to buy seedlings from trusted gardeners. Since there are varieties that give a small number of flowers, capricious and complex varieties, and no matter how you take care of such plants, they will not give abundant flowering.

The main reasons for the lack of flowers:

A weak variety or poor-quality seedling was selected for planting... A strong seedling is a plant not older than three years. The seedling must have a developed root system without signs of decay. The bush should have three to four developed shoots. The bark of the shoot should be green.
Bad light... Do not expect abundant flowers from roses growing under trees. You may have noticed that the most lush rose bushes can be seen in rose gardens. The bushes are planted in a brightly lit place that is in the shade for three hours a day - this trick will prolong the flowering duration. From the shady and northern side, they are transplanted to a sunny place - after that, the plant should be given time to adapt.
Incorrectly prepared soil for planting... The soil for planting should be light, well permeable and at the same time retaining air and moisture. In no case should the soil be dense, prone to acidification. In order to improve bad soil, it is dug up with peat, compost, sand, humus, as well as with the addition of other substrates that can make the soil lighter and more nutritious. If there is too much moisture, they tear out grooves for drainage or arrange drainage.
Insufficient penetration when landing- the place of the rootstock is not deep enough and the shoots of the wild take away nutrients from the cultivated plant.
Seedlings are planted on the north side, or the place is too windy- roses do not like this;
Improper removal or pruning of renewal shoots, poor pruning, ignorance of blind shoots. For example, a hybrid tea rose blooms only on the shoots of the current year, and blind shoots (that is, not giving flowers) can be turned into blooming ones. As a reminder, pruning roses is one of the most important aspects of regular grooming.
Poor bush insulation in winter. After a stressful winter, the rose needs time to recover, there is no time for flowering. In winter, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, straw, roofing material or spunbond. To prevent the weight of the snow from breaking the roses, the shelter is placed on special wooden supports or sticks. Roses should be covered when the leaves are completely dry. It is best to cover when the temperature has already reached -3 and no later.

Low-quality and high-quality seedling. Photo from the site agronomist.in.ua

Do roses bloom in the first year after planting and when can we expect flowers

Depends on the type of rose and the seedling itself. With proper storage of seedlings in winter, as well as after planting, climbing roses bloom in the first year... As a rule, rambler roses bloom. If the plant has not bloomed, the shoots may have been frostbitten. But even if the rose does not bloom, and this happens for no particular apparent reason, it forms a beautiful bush and will definitely bloom next year - this can be explained by the fact that for flowering it needs a set of root and green mass.

The first flowering also depends on the moment of planting., for example, if the plant was planted in September, then the growth of buds will already be noticed by the beginning of spring, and if the seedling was planted in spring, then flowering will begin twenty days later, and care should be more careful.

After the bush has faded, all peduncles are cut off. Rosehip should not be allowed to develop. And you should also cut out all the old shoots, they are not needed and they will not give flowers. 2/3 of all old peduncles should be cut off, leaving 3 shoots each.

A hybrid tea rose, when properly pruned, can bloom three times a year.

Care errors as the reason for the lack of flowers

Here we describe the reasons that can be eliminated without plant transplantation.

There are four global reasons:

Improper watering. Tea roses require an abundant drink. In no case is it superficial watering, which is the sin of many novice gardeners! On average, they are watered once abundantly, once every ten days. In hot weather, 15 liters are watered once a week in the holes around the bushes. It is best to water in the morning or in the evening, the main thing is that by night the leaves are completely dry from the water. After watering, the land is mulched. For irrigation, use settled or rainwater. Determine the lack of moisture by stopping the growth of shoots, by shedding sheets and crushing flowers.
Diseases of roses. The formation of plaque and rot on the stems. To do this, before sheltering in winter, the bush is checked for lesions and everything is cut off and bad shoots are burned. Sprayed with a solution of 3% vitriol. In the spring, the affected areas are cleaned, a thorough pruning is done, and tetracycline ointment is applied to the scraped areas. In the summer, you should look at the bush every two days and cut off the affected areas.
Lack of batteries. The following elements are used to feed the plant:
- Nitrogen. Helps the development of leaves and shoots. Dilute 1 tablespoon with ten liters of water;
- Phosphorus. Enhances root growth. You can determine that there is a shortage by the leaves, a spot and brown-purple stripes appear. They are fed with superphosphate at the rate of a large spoon for 10 liters of water;
- Potassium. Identified by yellowed leaves. Helps the plant fight fungal diseases. Calculation: a large spoon for ten liters of water;
- Magnesium... Helps photosynthesis. With a shortage, colorless spots appear.
- Iron. Yellowing of the edge of the leaves. With a lack of iron, peat or acidic fertilizing is introduced into the soil.
- Bor. With a shortage, shoots die off, the edges of the leaves are bent. For top dressing, ash is scattered near the bush and dug up with the ground.
- Manganese. If the quantity is insufficient, the veins of the leaves turn yellow. For feeding, a solution of 0.5% manganese sulfate is prepared.
Excess batteries. This is also the sin of many novice gardeners who care for their plants diligently, but without understanding what is what, and begin to fertilize everyone. Overfeeding inappropriately is just as bad as underfeeding! It is important to understand when and what fertilizers are needed:
- complex - give in early spring, at the start of growth, during flowering it is useless;
- phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied either in the spring or in the fall with the last feeding;
- nitrogen contributes to the growth of green mass, so it is not appropriate in late summer and autumn;
- sometimes foliar feeding may be required (with prolonged rains).

What to do if roses do not bloom in the garden

The procedure depends on the diagnosis. Which of the above reasons is appropriate for your situation?

In its simplest form, you should act like this:

We choose a trusted seller and a good variety.
The rose must be grafted onto a frost-resistant stock.
At the same time, it is better to discard the northern, cold, blown places immediately, choose a bright, warm, calm place for the rose. Roses are planted 50 cm from buildings or arches.
The plant does not bloom in heavy soil, so the soil must be dug up a meter deep in advance. The land is saturated with peat, manure or humus. The soil must be nutritious, otherwise where the lush flowers come from?
Professional cropping required. As a rule, the crown is cut with a fan.
After flowering, lashes and faded shoots are cut off. The soil is fed with potassium and phosphorus. Leaving the rose for the winter, be sure to cover it with a thick film, protect all shoots from rodents.

How to stimulate flowering

It happens that roses still bloom, but not as brightly as we would like. Causes:

Illiterate pruning. Not everyone knows that summer pruning allows you to prolong flowering, there is about this in the popular and very sensible videos on the blog "Marina Flowers" (for example, the video from July 9, 2015, "Average pruning of roses after the first flowering - for fast re-flowering") ...
Withered flowers remain on the bush. Attention is a fairly common reason for poor flowering! Withered flowers need to be removed in time, without pity. In order for the plant to bloom all the time, you need to inspect the bush and cut off dry branches and buds daily.

Photo from flowerbank.ru

Top dressing

This, in fact, is not such a simple matter. It is difficult to give unambiguous recommendations here, because everyone has different initial conditions. Let's see what the practitioners recommend.

A user from the site rosebook.ru recommends fertilizing the plant during pauses with potassium monophosphate and fermented herb infusion. A user of the stilist forum, advises feeding only until mid-July. He believes that a properly laid planting pit with feeding plays an important role for good growth. In the fall, they make the hilling organic matter, in the spring they feed them with complex fertilizer. Summer pruning is required.

And there is also an opinion that feeding the bush is mandatory when the first shoots bloom.

The bush should grow at a slight slope, like a hole under the bush, so that water does not stagnate. If the curly rose does not bloom, pruning with the formation of a crown is required, buds will form on the trimmed branches. Also, to stimulate, create a microclimate and spray the plant. They pull out a pit, a pool to create moisture.

If the bush is in the shade, it should be transplanted to a bright place. If it's hot, water it at least once every two days.

From organic matter, gardeners use rotted horse manure, buried in the soil. Nitrogen produces green foliage. Phosphorus helps in the formation of peduncles. Magnesium helps bud growth. Iron helps prevent rose diseases. And also used for spraying mineral fertilizers - this is a foliar top dressing.

Correct planting of a seedling:

Photo from pseeksy.vepo.com

If properly cared for, the rose will bloom for over 25 years.

About the correct planting of roses

To deepen the vaccination and how much? About this - in the blog "Garden World".

Rose is the queen of the garden. But the queen is capricious and often refuses to bloom. Among the reasons for this unpleasant phenomenon are easily fixable and those that cause a lot of trouble. In any case, we must quickly deal with the reasons and try to help the plants.

Why Roses Don't Bloom

Not all summer residents plant roses in their homes: there is a lot of trouble with them. But if you get a good understanding of agricultural technology, the garden will become much more beautiful. But roses refuse to bloom for many reasons.

Young or old plants

A very young rose, the first year of life, and does not have to bloom. It should take root properly and gain strength, build up the root system. Moreover, if the first-year rose decides to bloom, it is better not to let her do this, to cut off the buds that have appeared.

A rose that is too old may not bloom either: it is not for nothing that you have to transplant plants from time to time, and between these procedures it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning.

Bushes that are too old may refuse to bloom

Wrong landing site

Roses are heat-loving plants that do not tolerate drafts, so the location of the bush is of great importance. The rose may refuse to bloom in the shade, in the winds, in places with a close location of groundwater. Perhaps it should even have been planted on an artificial mound, and it can also lead to sad results.

Bad soil

Roses bloom well on breathable fertile soils. If the bush is planted in clay, you can not wait for flowering: when planting, it was necessary to refine the soil to a depth of at least half a meter, adding sand and various fertilizers.

Wild growth

Florists often grow varietal roses grafted onto wilds, usually on wild rose. In such cases, over time, many root shoots form around the bushes, weakening the main bush, taking away food and moisture from it. This can lead to a lack of flowering, so the shoots must be systematically removed.

Rosehip shoots often grow near grafted roses.

Incorrect cropping

Roses are pruned annually and according to the rules. Without this procedure, flowering worsens and fades from year to year. Too strong pruning depletes the bushes, superficial pruning does not allow the formation of new strong shoots. Pruning should be done with a sharp, clean pruning shears to avoid inadvertent infection.

Incorrect watering

Roses require a lot of moisture to bloom, they bloom poorly without watering, and in extreme cases they may not bloom at all. It is best to water the roses infrequently, but abundantly, to great depths. After watering, it is necessary to loosen, or better, mulch the soil. Any bulk materials used in gardening are used as mulch.

Improper nutrition

Roses are a must, but the wrong balance of nutrients can hinder flowering. So, with an excess of nitrogen, foliage will grow violently, and you can not wait for flowers.

Freezing or damping

And the timely gradual cleaning of the covering material in the spring. The shelter should be sufficient to survive the frost, but roses that have not been opened in spring can quickly rot from damping and refuse to bloom.

In most regions, roses need to be covered for the winter, but be sure to open them in time.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests of roses are diverse, and if the plant is weakened, then we will not talk about any flowering. It is necessary to fight these phenomena in time, to spray the bushes with suitable preparations.

How to help plants

Having dealt with the reason for the lack of flowering, we must try to eliminate it. If no diseases are found, everything is in order with watering and feeding, the shoots are cut out, the planting site is perfect, but there are no flowers, you should try the following:

cut out extra shoots: the thinnest, growing in the wrong direction, "blind", curves;
perform stimulating pruning: the shoots are pruned over a strong leaf or bud;
feed roses with complex fertilizer with a predominance of potassium; it would be nice to add humates at the same time.

Chances are, these simple steps will help you see flowers again.

Video: first aid in the absence of flowering roses

Climbing roses include types of rose hips, as well as several varieties of garden roses, branching with rather long stems. They are directly related to the genus Rosehip. And these plants are very popular in vertical gardening of both various structures, buildings and walls, and arbors. Such flowers can decorate both a large structure and a very small one. These plants are widely used to create various structures in the garden, namely, columns, gazebos, pyramids, garlands, as well as arches. And they are also remarkably combined with other plants, in this regard, their popularity is no less than that of a room or bush rose.

There is no general description for this type of plant, because they have many different forms and varieties. However, there is a classification of climbing roses, which has been accepted in international floriculture practice.

First group

Such plants are called climbing roses or rambler roses (Rambler). These flowers have long, flexible shoots that are arched or creeping. They are painted in a deep green color, and spikes are located on their surface. In length, they can reach more than 500 centimeters. Glossy leathery leaves are small. Flowers can be double, semi-double and simple, their diameter, as a rule, does not exceed 25 millimeters. They have a rather weak aroma. The flowers are part of the inflorescences, which are located along the entire length of the stems. Flowering in such plants is quite abundant, and it lasts a little longer than 4 weeks. Observed flowering in the first half year period. A very large number of varieties have frost resistance, and such plants are able to overwinter normally even under a relatively light shelter. This plant was born thanks to such species as: multiflora rose (multiflora) and Vihura rose.

Second group

Climbing (Climber) or large-flowered climbing roses (klaimers) were bred by breeders when crossing groups of rambler roses with hybrid tea, tea, remontant roses, as well as floribunda rose. The length of the stems of such climbing roses can reach 400 cm. The flowers are quite large (diameter is more than 4 centimeters), and they are part of small loose inflorescences. Abundant flowering. A large number of varieties bloom 2 times during the season. The flowers have a shape similar to hybrid tea roses. These flowers are relatively frost-resistant and resistant to powdery mildew.

Third group

Climbing was formed by large-flowered mutating shrub roses, namely: grandiflora, hybrid tea, and floribunda. The difference between such plants and producing species is that they have even more vigorous growth and very large flowers (diameter from 4 to 11 centimeters), while they can be either single or part of not very large inflorescences. They also differ in fruiting, which occurs at a later date. Most of the varieties are distinguished by repeated flowering. These plants are cultivated only in the southern regions of the temperate zone, where the winter period is relatively warm and mild.

Planting climbing roses in open ground

Absolutely all types of such plants are very capricious in nature. The same applies to climbing roses. To plant and care for such a plant, you need to adhere to certain rules. And you should also take into account the advice of experienced florists on the cultivation of a climbing rose. The choice of a site for planting must be approached with all responsibility. Such plants simply need a plot that will be illuminated by the sun from morning until lunchtime. In this case, the dew on the plant can dry out, which will help to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases. At lunchtime, when the sun's rays are most scorching, this area should be shaded, otherwise burns may appear on the surface of the foliage and petals. Also, a suitable site should be protected from northeast and north winds because it is quite cold. It is not recommended to decorate the corner of buildings with climbing roses. The fact is that the draft present there can destroy the delicate plant. For planting such flowers, experts advise choosing a site on the south side of the building. In order to plant climbing roses, you need a strip of soil only half a meter wide, but you should take into account that any structure, building or plant should be located at a distance of about 50-100 centimeters from such a flower.

Suitable soil must be water-permeable. If, at the site chosen for planting, the groundwater is located very close to the surface, these plants are planted on a special pre-prepared elevation. The roots of this type of roses in some cases can be buried in the ground up to 200 centimeters. In order to prevent stagnation of liquid in the root system, the selected area should be located at least at a not very large slope. Loam is considered ideal for planting a climbing rose. If the soil is sandy, then it must be corrected before planting by adding clay when digging, and sand must be added to the clay soil. Such plants need soil saturated with nutrients, so the introduction of humus or humus is mandatory. You should also add bone meal to the soil, which is considered an excellent source of phosphorus. Prepare the soil well in advance. Ideally, this should be done 6 months before planting, but preparation can also be done 4 weeks before planting the rose.

When planning to plant a climbing rose, you must first learn how to choose the highest quality planting material. Nowadays, you can buy seedlings of roses that are self-rooted, as well as those that are grafted onto rose hips. But how are they different? Grafted seedlings have one important difference from self-rooted ones. The fact is that the root system of such a seedling belongs to the dog rose, and on it there is a scion belonging to a varietal climbing rose. In this regard, planting and caring for a self-rooted rose should be somewhat different than a grafted one. So, for example, a grafted seedling must be buried in the soil during planting in such a way that the place where the graft is located is underground at a depth of 10 centimeters. With this method of planting, the part of the plant that was grafted begins to form its own root system, while the roots of the rose hip eventually become unnecessary and die off. In the case when, during planting, the scion was not buried in the ground, but remained above its surface, it can lead to the death of the plant. The fact is that the wild rose is a deciduous plant, and the grafted rose is an evergreen. If the planting was carried out in violation of the rules, then such a discrepancy between the rootstock and the scion can lead to the death of the cultivated part of the plant.

Seedlings with an open root system must be immersed in a container of water for 1 day, and this should be done immediately before planting in open ground. After that, you should cut off all the leaves and cut off, using a pruner, those stems that are unripe or have been damaged. You should also trim the root system and the aerial part, leaving 30 centimeters each. Places of cuts should be treated with crushed charcoal. If you use grafted seedlings for planting, then they must carefully remove all the buds that are located below the scion. The fact is that rosehip shoots will begin to grow from them. Next, the planting material should be disinfected. To do this, it must be dipped in a solution of copper sulfate (3%).

The hole for planting a rose should be 50x50 in size. At the same time, a distance of at least 100 centimeters must be maintained between the planting pits. The top layer of soil most saturated with nutrients must be removed from the dug hole and combined with ½ part of the manure bucket. Part of the resulting soil mixture must be poured into the hole, and then a relatively large amount of water must be poured into it. This procedure must be carried out a day or two before the expected planting of the plant. On the day when you are going to plant a seedling, you need to prepare a special solution in order to process the root system before planting. To prepare the solution, dissolve 1 tablet of heteroauxin, 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin in 500 ml of water. Then pour this liquid into 9.5 liters of clay talker. Before the seedling is lowered into the hole, its roots should be dipped in the prepared mixture. A mixture of soil and manure should be poured into the hole with a mound. Then a seedling must be placed in the hole, while carefully straightening its roots. Fill the hole with the same mixture of soil and manure and compact the surface of the soil well. Do not forget that the place where the graft is located must be buried 10 centimeters into the ground. In this case, for a self-rooted seedling, the root collar must be buried 5 or more centimeters into the ground. The planted plant must be well watered. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, it will be necessary to add a mixture of soil with manure to the hole. Then the plant spuds to a height of 20 centimeters or more.

Roses planted in autumn overtake those that were planted in open ground in spring. At the same time, the latter need special increased attention to themselves. Before planting seedlings, they should trim the root system to 30 centimeters, and the stems must be shortened to 15–20 centimeters. When the plant is planted, it needs to be well watered and huddled high. Then it should be covered with a transparent film on top, while creating something similar to a mini-greenhouse. In these greenhouse conditions, the rose will take root relatively faster. Do not forget to air the seedling every day, for this you need to raise the shelter for a few minutes. Experts advise airing longer and longer each time, so the rose will also harden. After the threat of night frost is left behind, it will be possible to remove the shelter completely, and pour a layer of mulch on the soil surface in the hole. If the seedling was planted at a time when warm and dry weather was established, then the surface of the holes will need to be sprinkled with a layer of mulch (peat or other).

Outdoor climbing care for climbing roses

In order for the climbing rose to grow and develop normally, it is necessary to learn how to properly water, feed, cut the plant. You also need to monitor the health of the rose and destroy pests in time. It is very important to learn how to properly prepare the bushes for wintering. This type of rose needs a reliable support. These plants can easily tolerate drought and therefore should not be watered abundantly. As a rule, they are watered 1 time in 7 days or in a decade, 10–20 liters of water should be poured onto 1 bush. Remember to water more often, but less. To keep water in the hole, it is recommended to build a not very low shaft of soil around it. When 2-3 days have passed from the moment of watering, it will be necessary to loosen the soil surface of the trunk circle to a depth of 5 to 6 centimeters. This will help retain moisture in the soil as well as improve air access to the root system. In order to reduce the number of watering and practically eliminate the loosening of the soil, you need to cover its surface with a layer of mulch.

Young plants do not need to fertilize the soil until the end of the summer period, since there is a large amount of nutrients in the soil from the moment of planting. At the end of summer, the plant should be fed with a solution of potash fertilizers, this will help the rose prepare for the winter period. It is recommended in this case to use an infusion prepared on wood ash as a top dressing. In the second year of life, such plants need to be supplemented with mineral and organic fertilizers, while they should be alternated. And roses of the third and subsequent years of life should be fed only with organic fertilizers. So, a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 1 liter of manure and 1 tbsp. Is perfect for this. wood ash. If desired, instead of manure, you can take another organic fertilizer. During the period of intensive growth, climbing roses must be fed 5 times, while it should be borne in mind that fertilizers cannot be applied to the soil during the flowering period.

Support for climbing roses

There are a huge variety of supports for this type of rose. So, as a support, you can use an old dried tree, a wooden, metal or polymer arch or lattice, as well as arched rods made of metal. But the best support for such a plant is a building or any structure, but we must remember that plants should be planted at least 50 centimeters, stepping back from the wall. On the surface of the wall, it is necessary to fix the guides to which the shoots of the plant or the lattice will cling. But at the same time, one must not forget that if the stems are located horizontally, then the flowers will grow along their entire length. If they grow vertically, then the flowers will bloom only at the tops of the stems.

In order to fix the stems on the support, it is necessary to use plastic twine. It is forbidden to use wire for these purposes, even if wrapped in a cloth or a sheet of paper. The shoot must be fixed on the support securely, but so that the fastening material does not damage it. Plants should be systematically inspected for the integrity of the fastening materials. The fact is that under the weight of the plant itself or from gusts of wind, the twine can break, and in this case there is a risk of the rose getting significant damage. Step back 30 to 50 centimeters from the bush and then dig the support into the ground.

Transplanting climbing roses

An adult rose may need a transplant only when it has become clear that the place where it grows is completely unsuitable for it. The transplant is carried out in the autumn in September or at the beginning of November, later this should not be done, since the bush will not have time to take root before the beginning of the winter period. In some cases, the plant is transplanted in the spring, but this must be done before the buds awaken. The plants must be removed from the support structure. In ramblers, young shoots are not removed, but their tops are pinched in the last days of August, which will help them become lignified as soon as possible. Stems older than 2 years are pruned. All long stems should be shortened by ½ part for climbers and climbers. After that, the bushes must be carefully dug in a circle, while from its center it is necessary to retreat a distance that is equal to 2 bayonet shovels. It must be remembered that the roots go deep into the soil, and you need to try to dig them out completely, while causing them as little damage as possible. Shake off the soil from the roots, and then inspect them. With the help of a pruner, you need to cut off shaggy, as well as damaged ends of the roots. Dip the plant into the prepared hole and be sure to straighten the roots. Then cover the hole with soil and compact the surface well. Water the plant well. A few days after transplanting, you need to add the required amount of soil in order to level the surface of the trunk circle. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out the hilling of the rose.

Aphids and spider mites can settle on a climbing rose. In the event that aphids on the plant are not very much recommended, try to get rid of it using folk remedies. So, you can manually remove insects from a plant. To do this, you need to pinch the part of the plant on which the aphid is located with your fingers and remove it. Remember to wear gloves. But this method can be used only at the very beginning of infection. If there are a lot of insects, then manually removing them will be ineffective. In this case, it is recommended to make a soapy solution. The soap should be crushed with a grater, poured into a container, where water should also be poured. Let the solution stand as the soap takes time to dissolve. Strain it and spray the plant with a sprayer. If, after the treatment, the insects still remain, then you need to buy an insecticidal agent in a special store, on which there should be a mark "for grapes and roses". For processing in this case, you must choose a calm sunny day. Spider mites can settle on a rose only during a dry hot period, and only when the plant is very rarely watered. Such insects live on the seamy side of the leaves. They feed on plant sap and entangle the leaves with a thin cobweb. In an infected rose, the leaves turn green-silver. Very often, an infusion prepared in wormwood, makhorka, yarrow or tobacco is used to kill such mites. After 3 days after treatment with this infusion, from 80 to 100 percent of the pests should die. To prepare an infusion of wormwood, pour 500 g of freshly plucked wormwood into a container made of wood. You also need to pour a bucket of cold water there. When the mixture is infused for half a month, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. It is necessary to process both the plant itself and the surface of the soil around it. If you want to get rid of insects in the near future, then you will need to purchase Fitoverm. You can repeat the treatment a couple of weeks after the first. Before proceeding with the treatment with this tool, it is necessary to study the instructions attached to it, which indicate the features, as well as the required dosage.

Also climbing rose can harm: cicadas, thrips, rose sawflies, leafworms. However, if you take care of the flower, observing all the rules, then they will not settle on it. As a preventive measure, plant marigolds in the immediate vicinity of the rose, they will be able to protect this plant from most pests. Also, in the fall and spring, preventive measures should be taken. To do this, the bushes must be treated with a bordeaux liquid sprayer.

For roses, diseases such as bacterial cancer, gray rot, coniotirium, powdery mildew, and black spot are very dangerous.

On the surface of the plant, growths of different sizes appear, very soft and lumpy. Over time, they become harder and darker. This leads to drying and death of the plant. Such a disease cannot be cured. During the acquisition of seedlings, you need to thoroughly examine them, and before planting them, you need to disinfect the root system by immersing it for 2-3 minutes. in a solution of copper sulfate (3%). If there are signs of disease on an adult plant, the affected parts must be cut off immediately, while the sections must be treated with the same 3% solution.

This disease is fungal, which is considered a bark burn or cancer. You can see that the plant is sick in the spring, after the shelter has been removed. On the surface of the bark, you can see specks of brownish-red color, which will eventually turn black and turn into rings around the stem. These stems should be cut off immediately, while capturing part of the unaffected tissue, and destroyed to prevent the spread of the disease. For preventive purposes, in the autumn, nitrogen fertilizer must be changed to potash, which will make the tissues of the roses stronger. And even during thaws, it is imperative to ventilate the plants, raising the shelter.

A whitish bloom appears on parts of the roses, which gradually turns brown. The appearance of such a disease can be provoked by high air humidity, a sharp change in temperature, an excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil and violations of irrigation rules. The parts of the rose that are affected by the disease must be cut and destroyed. Next, the plant should be processed using a solution of copper sulfate (2%) or iron sulfate (3%).

Dark brownish-red spots appear on the surface of the leaves, which are bordered by a yellow rim. Over time, they merge with each other and cause the death of the leaf plate. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer under the root in the fall. And you will also need a three-stage treatment of the plant itself and the soil near it with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (3%) or ferrous sulfate (3%). The breaks between treatments are 7 days.

It is capable of destroying almost all parts of the plant (buds, leaves, shoots). Such a rose loses its beauty, and also its flowering becomes relatively scarce. In case of a very frolicking disease, the rose should be dug up and burned. If the disease has just appeared, then it is recommended to treat the bush with a solution prepared from 5 liters of water and 50 g of Bordeaux liquid. In order to cure the plant completely, as a rule, 4 treatments may be needed, the interval between which should be 7 days.

It happens that a seemingly healthy and well-developed climbing rose does not bloom. The point here may not be at all in the disease, but in the fact that a seedling of poor quality (low-flowering) was purchased, and besides, the wrong place was chosen for it, and the soil, too, most likely the given plant is not quite suitable. And it also happens that last year's stems are damaged during wintering.

When to prune climbing roses

These plants need pruning, since it is she who allows you to form a beautiful crown, make flowering more abundant, and along the entire height of the bush, improve its decorative qualities. If you cut the plant correctly, then it will delight with its flowering throughout the entire period of intensive growth. Vegetative stems deserve special attention, since most of the flowers are formed on last year's stems. The rose should be pruned in spring or autumn. At the very beginning of the period of intensive growth, absolutely all climbing roses need to remove dead stems, as well as areas that have been frostbitten. And also the ends of the stems should be cut off to the strongest outer bud. The following pruning procedures will be directly related to how many times a particular rose blooms, one or more.

Those plants in which flowering occurs 1 time per season, flowers grow on last year's stems. Basal (faded) stems replace regeneration shoots, which can grow up to 10 pieces. Flowers will grow on them only next year. In this regard, faded shoots will need to be removed by cutting them out at the root, while this procedure is recommended to be carried out in the autumn during preparation for wintering. Those climbing roses that bloom several times a season, flowering branches of different orders grow on the main stems for 3 years - from 2 to 5. In the fifth year of life of these stems, their flowering becomes more scarce. In this regard, at the beginning of the spring period, the main shoots must be removed, cut out to the base, and this should be done in the fourth year of their life. The re-flowering bushes should have 3 annual recovery stems and 3-7 flowering stems, which are the main ones. But at the same time, it must be remembered that in most of these roses, flowers are formed on overwintered stems, therefore, in spring, only the upper part with buds, which are underdeveloped, should be cut off from them.

Young roses that have been grafted and planted last or this year need special attention. Until the rose has developed its own root system, you will have to systematically remove the rose hips. After 1-2 years (after the death of the rosehip root system), rose growth will begin to appear.

Reproduction of climbing roses

Can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering and grafting. It is easier to do this by layering and cuttings. The seeds must be purchased from a specialized store. If you want to sow the seeds that were collected from roses by you, then you must understand that such plants do not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant, and therefore anything can grow in you.

The seeds must be folded into a sieve and immersed for 30 minutes in a container filled with hydrogen peroxide. Thus, the disinfection of the seed is carried out, as well as the prevention of mold formation during further stratification. Soak cotton wool discs in hydrogen peroxide and place the seeds on top of them. Put the same moistened cotton pads on top of them. Each resulting "sandwich" should be placed in a separate polyethylene bag. Sign the date and variety name, and then place the seeds in a refrigerator container for storing vegetables. You need to arrange a systematic check. Moreover, if mold is found, then the seeds must be washed and again kept in hydrogen peroxide. The cotton wool is replaced with fresh one, and the seeds are placed back in the refrigerator. After 6-8 weeks, the seeds, which should have sprouts, should be planted in peat tablets or in separate small pots, and sprinkled on top of them with a layer of mulch, which should be taken as perlite, this will help to avoid the "black leg" disease. Provide the plants with at least 10 hours of daylight and timely watering as the substrate dries. If the plant develops normally, then 8 weeks after planting, they will have buds, and after 4-6 weeks the plant will bloom. Feeding can be done with a weak solution of complex fertilizer. In spring, they are planted in open soil, and then they are looked after, as well as adult roses.

Cutting is the easiest way of propagation, which gives good results. For cuttings, you can use both faded stems and flowering ones. They need to be cut from the second half of June to the first days of August. The lower oblique cut must be made directly under the kidney, while the angle of inclination of the cut is 45 degrees. The upper cut should be straight and as high as possible above the kidney. The handle must have at least 2 internodes. The lower leaves must be torn off, and the ones from above should be shortened by ½ part. It is planted to a centimeter depth in an earth mixture consisting of sand with earth, or in sand. Cover it on top with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle. Move to a well-lit place protected from direct sunlight. Watering is carried out without removing the shelter. Treatment with a cuttings accelerating root growth agent can be useful only when the variety is distinguished by long rooting.

In springtime, an incision is made in the shoot above the bud. Then it must be placed in the prepared groove, the depth and width of which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters. A layer of humus must first be poured onto the bottom of the groove and covered with soil from above. The shoot is fixed in several places. Then it is covered with soil so that the upper part rises above the soil surface. The layering needs systematic watering. After the onset of the next spring period, the layers should be cut off from the parent plant and planted in a new place.

Grafting climbing roses

Budding - grafting an eye of a cultivated rose on the rhizome of a rose hip. This must be done from the last July days to the last August days. Before being vaccinated, the rosehip must be well watered, after which an incision in the shape of the letter T must be made on the root collar of the rootstock. The bark must be pryed off and slightly torn from the wood. A peephole must be cut from the stem of a rose, along with part of the bark and wood. Then it is placed tightly in the prepared incision and the place is rewound very tightly with oculatory film. Then it is necessary to huddle the rose hips so that the soil rises above the grafting site by at least 5 centimeters. After half a month, the bandage is slightly loosened, and the next spring it is removed altogether.

Features of care after flowering

What to do when roses have faded

With the beginning of the autumn period, you should start preparing roses for the winter period. From the last days of August, you need to completely stop watering and loosening the land and start feeding potassium instead of nitrogen. The upper part of the unripe stems must be removed. Such roses must be covered for the winter, but first they are removed from the supporting structure and placed on the soil surface. It is very easy to lay a young plant on the ground. It is not easy to lay an adult specimen on the ground, and it can take up to 7 days. It should be remembered that at sub-zero temperatures, the shoots become fragile and can break.

You need to cover the plant when the air temperature drops below minus 5 degrees. This should not be done earlier, because the flowers must harden, and they can also begin to grow or grow (which is associated with a long stay under shelter without air). Shelter should be done in non-rainy, calm weather. From the removed shoots, the leaves must be removed, the damaged stems must be cut off, the lashes must be tied using a rope, and then carefully put them on the litter. To create it, you can use dry leaves or spruce branches. Do not place the plant on bare soil. Press or fix the plant on the surface of the soil, and cover it with dry leaves or grass, and you can also use spruce branches. The base of the bush must be sprinkled with soil or sand, and then cover the plant with lutrasil, polyethylene film, roofing felt or other material that is able not to get wet. A layer of air should remain between the plant and the shelter.

Winter care

With the onset of a thaw in winter, you need to raise the shelter for a very short time. Plants benefit from fresh air in winter. But you should not remove the leaves or spruce branches. When the real spring begins, the shelter must be removed, otherwise the plants may start to hurt. At the same time, the lapnik will save the roses from freezing.

Climbing rose varieties with photos and names

The most popular varieties are described below.

Rambler (small-flowered climbing roses)

In height, such a vigorous variety can reach 800 cm while the crown is up to 300 cm wide. The rich green leaves are almost invisible due to the many creamy white flowers, the diameter of which is 4–5 centimeters. They smell like musk. A lot of free space and reliable support are needed. Not afraid of frost.

Ramblyn Rector

Light green leaf plates are decorated with five-meter lashes. Semi-double creamy flowers are rather small. They are 40 pieces in large inflorescences in the form of a brush. When exposed to the sun, they fade to a white color. Such a plant is also cultivated as a bush plant.

Bushes two meters high and wide are decorated with double flowers, painted in a rich crimson color, which are collected in racemose inflorescences. It blooms until the end of the summer period, but the bright color fades in the sun. It is frost-resistant and not susceptible to powdery mildew infection.

Climing and Climbing (large-flowered varieties)

The height of an erect, vigorous bush reaches 250 cm, and its width is 150 cm.The diameter of the densely double flowers is 14 centimeters. They are white with a greenish tint and smell like fruit. Bloom until the end of the summer period. Has resistance to disease.

The four-meter bush is decorated with dark green carved leaves and semi-double velvety large ones (diameter 8-10 centimeters). They have a deep red color. Not afraid of frost, resistant to diseases. Blooms several times per season.

The height of the bush can exceed 200 centimeters. Glossy leaves are dark green in color, and large double (12 centimeters in diameter) flowers are apricot. During the season, flowering is observed 2 or 3 times. It is resistant to powdery mildew. Good shelter is needed for wintering.

A vigorous three-meter bush has a one and a half meter diameter. The leaves are dense dark green. Terry lilac large (up to 10 centimeters in diameter) and fragrant flowers are part of the inflorescences. It grows rapidly and blooms several times per season. Resistant to disease.

Cordes hybrids (they are not separated into a separate group, but referred to as ramblers)

The fragrant tall plant has a diameter of 100 cm and a height of 300 cm. The racemose inflorescences consist of double large (up to 10 centimeters in diameter) flowers of a dark pink color. Flowering is observed 2 times per season. It is resistant to powdery mildew and black leg.

The bush has many shoots, and its height is 350 centimeters. The racemose inflorescences consist of semi-double large (up to 10 centimeters in diameter) flowers, painted in a yellowish-golden color. They smell strongly of fruit. Flowering is observed twice per season.

I don't know myself, I found it on the internet, maybe figure out your reason:
1. Incorrectly selected or cultivated soil
Roses love fertile loose soil, so too dense and heavy soil is unlikely to work. If, nevertheless, the choice is small, and a place with depleted soil is chosen, then it is worth more carefully approaching the issue of feeding. A mandatory stage in preparing the hole for planting is loosening the soil to a depth of 50-70 cm, it is to this depth that the roots of the rose grow.

2. Wrong location

Roses love open spaces, well lit by the sun and protected from the wind. In the shade and in a draft, these fragile flowers will not only not bloom, but generally will develop very slowly.

3. Insufficient watering

Roses tolerate drought, but the plants will throw all their strength into maintaining vitality, and not blooming. Therefore, in hot times of the day, the soil around the bushes should be regularly moistened.

4. Poorly tolerated wintering

A rose bush can stop the development and formation of buds, if it has not wintered well, froze. Therefore, you need to take a very responsible approach to this issue, starting preparation even before the season of prolonged rains, otherwise the bush will gain moisture.

5. Incorrect cropping

This is a whole science, and there are certain rules for different groups and varieties of roses. For example, if roses bloom again, you need to remove the upper part of the shoot with a dried flower, cutting it obliquely and leaving 5-8 mm above the next eye. You should carefully prune the climbing roses of the Rambler group, which bloom only on last year's shoots, removing only the frozen ends of the lashes - then you will not have to wonder why the rose does not bloom.

Periodically, old bushes need to be rejuvenated, also pruning according to the rules, removing thin and weak branches, as well as old woody lashes, leaving 3-5 strong lashes.

6. "Feral" rose bush

Since most of the roses in our area are grafted, and not rooted, you can skip and not remove in time the wild growth from the rootstock, a bush on which a cultivated rose sprout is grafted. These wild lashes gradually weaken the plant and the rose can easily lose its varietal qualities. It is very easy to recognize the insidious growth: it grows from below, the leaves are smaller, a large number of thorns. As soon as you see something like this, rip up the ground and cut off the branch at the very base. 7.

7. Improper feeding or overfeeding

Sometimes a rose bush instead of flowers begins to violently form lush foliage and actively grow upward. This, in most cases, is a consequence of an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. This is corrected by the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or just ash, but the effect will not be noticeable immediately.

We hope that the analyzed situations will help you avoid mistakes and now you already know exactly why the rose does not bloom.

Sometimes even experienced flower growers find it difficult to say why a rose does not bloom. Knowledge of the basic rules of caring for a beautiful flower will allow you to enjoy its splendor of colors and delicious aroma.

When breeding roses, you need to be prepared for the fact that theoretical recommendations from specialists and the real situation in practice may have some discrepancies between themselves. Therefore, it is very difficult even for experienced flower growers to determine why a rose does not bloom. The reason for the lack of buds on the bush can be both insufficient air humidity, impurities in the soil, the composition of local water, and insufficient knowledge of the basics of caring for this beautiful flower. Let's analyze the main mistakes of florists. Read about

The rose does not bloom: the wildness of the bush

In most cases, the growing roses in our area are grafted and not rooted. Therefore, you may not notice the appearance of wild growth from the rootstock of a bush on which a cultivated rose is grafted. Such wild shoots weaken the bush, and it gradually loses its varietal properties. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to timely remove this insidious growth, which is at the very bottom. It can be easily identified by its very small leaves and a large number of thorns. As soon as you see such a whip, tear the ground and boldly cut it off at the very base.

Soil quality

Often, a rose does not bloom due to an unsuitable soil structure or improper processing. To prevent this from happening, you should not plant it in dense, heavy soil. To obtain a lighter composition, you can add sand under the bush and gently loosen it to a depth of 5-7 cm.

Fertilization

The reason why a rose does not bloom on the site may be a shortage or excess of fertilizers applied to the soil. The main sign of excess nitrogen fertilization is the active growth of lush foliage upward without the formation of buds. The situation can be corrected by applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or ash.

The rose menu should include low-concentration fertilizing from an infusion of liquid organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Nutrient mixtures are applied alternately, alternating them every two weeks.

Pruning a rose bush

The purpose of pruning a bush is to rejuvenate it, thereby increasing the abundance of flowering. The event is held every spring, thereby ridding the plant of weak, sick and unproductive shoots, and the rest to receive impulses for further development.

First of all, when pruning, all weak, sick branches damaged by frosts and diseases are removed. Further, shoots are cut, which are directed into the bush.

This will allow airing the inside of the rose and relieve it of the possible accumulation of pests and fungal diseases.

Further, all unproductive shoots are removed, which include branches older than 3 years. They are easily identified by their highly lignified trunk and dark color. It is on such branches that in most cases buds do not appear, since their vessels have lost their elasticity and are completely clogged with salts. The remaining shoots are shortened according to the variety of the rose. Pruning can be done up to 3-4 buds (short), 5-7 buds (moderate) and up to 8 buds (weak).

Rose bush wintering

Also, the rose does not bloom as a result of improper wintering. To avoid freezing and exposure to moisture, before the onset of cold weather, the rose bush should be covered with rotted peat, covered with protective material or fallen leaves. Also, experienced gardeners make special cones from expanded polystyrene and cover the plants with them.

In addition to the above reasons, when choosing a variety, pay attention to its features. Since the reason why the rose does not bloom may be that the conditions of your site do not match for its full development.