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The secondary housing stock gradually comes to a state of complete wear and tear, which leads to accidents, blockages and leaks on utility pipelines. Therefore, the question of how to repair a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe is still very relevant. You can read about that in this article and watch the video.

A long-operated cast-iron sewage drain in an apartment usually flows for one of the following reasons:

• there was an impact mechanical effect on the metal;
• decrease in wall thickness as a result of prolonged exposure to corrosion;
• destruction of pipeline fasteners and change in the direction of the static weight load;
• a simultaneous combination of two or three of the above consequences.

Longitudinal cracks in plastic sewer materials appear only as a result of the lack of compensation for thermal expansion or there was an external impact of great force.

What to do if a sewer pipe is leaking

The place of damage must be repaired in one of the ways described below.

When it is necessary to replace the damaged area

The section of the cast-iron pipe, on which a sewage leak has formed, must be changed in the event of severe corrosive wear and the inappropriateness of repairs, as well as large cracks or numerous leak points.

How to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe with your own hands

In order to eliminate a leak, it is necessary to accurately determine the cause of its occurrence and find a place where it leaks. Depending on this, choose a possible repair method and carry out work. There are several ways to fix a sewer leak. They differ in the level of reliability, the appearance of the pipe after repair, and the complexity of execution.

Method 1. Installing clamps with a rubber gasket

This method of repair requires access to the pipeline with a margin of at least 50 mm from the walls. This condition is very often not met, especially when the pipe is angled in the toilet.

To install the clamp, it is necessary to clean the surface down to metal using metal brushes. After that, install a clamp with a rubber gasket.

Method 2. Cement bandage

It is a reliable way to repair longitudinal cracks in non-pressure pipelines. It consists in applying a gauze soaked in cement mortar to the site of damage.

The place to be repaired must be thoroughly cleaned of old paint and rust. Prepare a slurry with the addition of sand in a 1: 1 ratio. Dip the cheesecloth into the solution and make sure it is well saturated with the fabric. Apply the cement bandage to the surface in several layers and tie it with a rubber band or copper wire.

Method 3. Application of chemicals

For sealing cracks and fistulas on cast iron, a mixture of phosphoric acid and copper oxide powder in a 2: 3 ratio is used. The prepared solution hardens very quickly and therefore it must be done just before application to the damage site.

Before covering the crack, the cleaned surface must be degreased with acetone or gasoline.

A solution based on orthophosphoric acid can be replaced with epoxy resin, but its curing time is longer and after application, a surface winding of dense impregnated fabric is required.

How to replace a damaged pipe section

The sewerage system of the apartment consists of a riser and drainage from plumbing and household appliances.

Replacing only the riser in the toilet or individual sections of the horizontal pipe is technically possible, not rational from the point of view of further operation.

Required tools and materials

To complete the work, you will need to purchase a set of parts, which will necessarily include:

• socket pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, lengths of 2000 and 1000 mm;
• transition pipe "cast iron-plastic" 110 × 127 mm;
• compensating coupling (sliding) 110 mm;
• tee or cross, depending on the wiring configuration;
• rubber sealing cuffs 110 × 127 mm;
• three fasteners in the form of clamps;
• assembly grease or sanitary silicone.

From the tool you need to prepare:

• grinder (angle grinder) with a cutting wheel for metal;
• hammer 300-500 grams;
• mount;
• perforator with drilling.

Progress

After the preparatory stage, you can proceed to the direct implementation of the work. First of all, you should ensure that there is no fecal waste in the riser.

The cast iron riser is cut in stages. First, a window is cut out on the outside with a depth of at least half the pipe diameter. After that, the back wall is cut and the riser can be disassembled.

A cast-iron-plastic adapter is put on the upper cut of the cast-iron pipe. The bell of a two-meter plastic pipe is pushed onto it, on the lower end of which the compensating sleeve must be pushed to the limit.

A rubber sealing collar is inserted into the lower cast-iron socket and a tee or cross is installed, into which a meter-long pipe is then inserted. Its axis should coincide with the axis of the upper pipe. The movable expansion joint goes down and connects the two parts of the riser. The horizontal lines are routed to the desired sides from the tee or cross.

Leak prevention

After installing the clamp, the application of a bandage or sealant to the place of damage requires periodic inspection. If drops or yellow spots appear on the coating, additional sealing layers must be applied.

Eliminating a leak by installing a clamp, bandage or using sealants, it should be understood that if such damage is already on the pipe, then this means that its service life has come to an end and any repair will only be a temporary solution to the issue.

Therefore, immediately after repairing the leak, begin preparations for replacing the entire pipeline as a whole.

Features of the repair of plastic pipes

Unlike cast iron, they have a smooth outer surface. Therefore, the easiest way to fix a leak on a flat area is to use a special sealed tape, which can be purchased at a building materials store.

The tape is applied to the hole in such a way that half of its width constantly overlaps the previous strip. Laying is carried out with the maximum possible tension of the material used. The damaged area of ​​plastic pipes should be covered with tape in two layers when winding it in the opposite direction.

To carry out repairs, you can also use a clamping strap and sealants of various compositions.

The cement bandage, due to the low adhesion of the plastic surface, will not adhere to the pipeline.

Nuances of repairing PVC pipes

Since all polymer pipes for internal sewerage are made of polyvinyl chloride, the nuances of repairing PVC pipes are no different from the features of repairing plastic pipes, which are described in the previous paragraph.

What to do if there is a leak at the junction of the fitting and the pipe itself

It is necessary to remove the old sealing compound between the inner surface of the socket and the outer wall of the pipe. Then fill the joint with new sealant.

Sealing fistulas in a pipe

Fistulas are formed as a result of corrosive effects on metal and their sealing is completely analogous to repairing when cracks form, which you can read about above.

How to get rid of an unpleasant smell in a pipe

There will always be an unpleasant smell inside the sewer pipe. This is the nature of faecal effluent.

But in order for the smell from there not to penetrate into the room, it is necessary to ensure the complete tightness of the system, install siphons on all connection points and make sure that they are constantly filled with water.

Conclusion

It is quite possible for any apartment owner to make temporary repairs to cast-iron pipes on their own. But to replace cast iron with plastic, it is better to invite a professional plumber. Doing such work with your own hands, you risk being left without a toilet for a very long time and creating problems for your neighbors from above. Replacing the riser must be done very quickly and efficiently, and this requires some experience and working skills. I can state this with full responsibility, as a plumber with 32 years of experience.

Leaks in the heating circuit are common in the middle of winter. The defect can be eliminated effectively with improvised means, sealing the leak before the end of the heating season, without draining the water from the system.

Leaks in the heating system occur for various reasons and at different points in the circuit: on straight sections or at pipe joints.

Leaks in straight sections

The cause of leaks in metal heating pipes, which have been in operation for more than one year, in more than 95% of cases is metal corrosion (rusting).

Even thick-walled galvanized pipes in heating circuits will corrode over time. The destruction of metal in contact with water is a natural process that has not yet been completely defeated.

The trigger for metal destruction can be:

• mechanical, chemical internal damage to the pipe;
• changes in temperature or pressure;
• damage to the protective outer layer.

Note! If a leak has arisen in an old heating pipe, then most likely this is a warning about the total wear of the entire system.

In autonomous heating systems, which are mounted from modern polymer materials, the reasons for leaks are the wrong choice of pipes.

When the owner, through ignorance or for reasons of economy, acquires pipes for cold water or pipes that are not intended for operation under pressure for hot water systems or a heating system. In this case, simple sealing of the leak is indispensable; a complete replacement of communications is often required.

Leaks at the joints

Leaks in the connection area occur if the thread has become unusable (for example, it stuck and was torn off).

Despite the fact that cast iron pipes as part of internal engineering systems are considered outdated compared to plastic pipes, today you can still find cast iron pipelines in a sewer system.

As a rule, residents of houses where cast-iron pipelines for the disposal of domestic waste water function regularly face the problem of leaks. The fact of a violation of the tightness of pipes can be determined by the fetid odor from the bathroom or basement where communications pass.

Cast iron sewer pipes can leak for a variety of reasons. Leaks are localized at the joints and joints of pipes with each other, at the sections of the pipeline turning at an angle, as well as at the joints with engineering equipment (collectors, viewing windows) and plumbing products (toilet, bath, shower).

The easiest way to eliminate such leaks is to use materials and tools at hand. The situation is more complicated when the leak has arisen due to the formed fistula or crack. In this case, it will be necessary to seal the site, and if the repair is inappropriate, to make a full or partial replacement of the cast-iron pipeline.

Reasons for leakage of cast iron pipes, depending on the location:

• natural wear and tear, exceeding the maximum service life (relevant for old houses);
• corrosion of metal in contact with air;
• errors in the design of the pipeline (the formation of an ice plug inside is most often due to the proximity to the line of freezing of the soil during underground laying);
• installation errors, insufficient sealing of joints;
• careless operation, blows and other rough mechanical impact;
• factory defect (rare).

Attention! Even a small damage, from which water flows down a drop, requires prompt measures to restore the integrity of the pipe. Unlike cast-iron radiators and heating risers, holes and cracks in sewer pipes do not have the property of spontaneously tightening. Left to chance, the problem will get worse for some time and may end in an emergency.

Repair methods

You can repair a leaking sewer pipe in different ways, the choice of which depends on the place of the leak, the size of the hole or crack.

01-12-2012: Ludmila

Please advise, cast-iron sewerage, the last 9th floor, the pipe leading to the roof has longitudinal cracks from which condensate oozes (leaks) especially in winter. The pipe is thickly painted with oil paint, I covered it with something before. How to put it in order?

01-12-2012: Dr. Lom

Judging by the fact that you do not complain about an unpleasant smell, the cracks do not open completely and therefore you can simply cover the cracks with silicone sanitary sealant. However, before applying the sealant, the pipe surface should be thoroughly dried; the sealant will not stick to the wet surface, however, this is important for any repair method.
In general, I added longitudinal cracks and methods for sealing them to the list of possible defects for cast iron pipes, see other methods in the article.

16-03-2013: natasha

Please tell me, in our kitchen there is a sewer pipe, it does not flow, but there is an unpleasant smell from it. Do not tell me how to insulate it so that there is no smell,

16-03-2013: Dr. Lom

If the joints of the riser pipes are not tight, then during normal operation of the sewage system they may not leak, but in this case there are no obstacles for sewer gases. Those. you still need to check the tightness of the joints or just cover them with sanitary silicone, since the joints are dry.

08-05-2013: MiSchum

Hello. I have the following problem.
The joint of the cast-iron branch in the riser with a socket + plastic toilet tee 100 through a rubber cuff.
The plumbers set up the whole thing, but they did not apply any silicone or anything, they did not clean the pipe in the socket, and eventually flooded the neighbors.
Everything is complicated by the fact that when the sewer is drained from the neighbors, water flows into our sewer outlet all the time, i.e. it is unrealistic to dry it before docking with a plastic tee.
So far I smeared a good layer of ordinary plumbing sealant on the rubber collar on all sides, and pressed back the plastic tee. It doesn't seem to flow, but I've read that such a connection is not durable and sooner or later will flow again.
Now I'm thinking of covering it up inside the connection (I can get there through the tee) with a hydraulic seal, as well as outside the connection. How good is this method?
Thanks.

08-05-2013: Dr. Lom

As a rule, if it was possible to eliminate the leak, then additional sealing is not required. Silicone is a relatively new material and I can’t say anything for sure about its reliability, but based on personal experience of use, at least 20 years silicone will serve.
Nevertheless, any additional sealing is an increase in reliability, you can use any methods of additional sealing in particular and specified by you.

17-05-2013: Olga

Hello! How can you seal a 3x3cm hole in the lower part of the cast-iron sewer pipe plug under the toilet, the better to seal it over? It is impossible to dry the hole.

17-05-2013: Dr. Lom

Without seeing the situation, it is difficult to say anything definite. Usually, if there is no way to dry the hole, then a clamp is placed or a wooden chop is hammered. If the matter is completely bad and nothing fits, then try using a hydraulic seal. Although hydraulic seals are intended mainly for working with concrete and stone, if you make the seal correctly, then after curing it will reliably grab onto the metal.

19-06-2013: Irina

Hello! I have a large hole in a cast-iron gutter, a pipe in the form of a knee and a hole on the outside, it was made as necessary by the workers of the housing office, and now it flows. I live on the 7th floor of an 8-storey brick building built in 1959. I am offered to wrap it up with rubber bandage and wire, but they themselves say that this is temporary. And I want to make repairs, that you can suggest a more thorough

19-06-2013: Dr. Lom

From the capital - only a complete knee replacement.

09-07-2013: Ruslan

Hello! I myself am an experienced plumber and not long ago I faced such a problem. 110 the plastic one had to be plugged, but leave a sealed 35 mm hole for the drainage pump hose. My question is how would you do it, thanks in advance!

09-07-2013: Dr. Lom

I would first insert a 110x50 adapter, and a suitable rubber sleeve into the adapter. In cramped conditions, you can choose an adapter that takes up a minimum of space.

05-11-2013: Alexander

Hello! Such a problem .. The sewer pipe is in the toilet, there is no plug on it, which is held on two bolts !! In stores, there is no such thing anywhere! We advised a plastic one with a cuff, but they all have a diameter of 110., this is not suitable. What can be done ??? I twisted it with plywood with a gasket, but the smell is still not pleasant

05-11-2013: Dr. Lom

Judging by your description, there is no cover on the revision. Try to cover up the cracks between the hatch and the plywood with silicone, or even cover up with plasticine.

04-05-2014: Turgenev

It is bad and painstaking to close the crack with cottage cheese, but cover it with chalk, and then soak it with liquid glass. When it dries, it is necessary to bake it with a blowtorch, the liquid glass will harden and will serve happily ever after. The color will remain white.
Better yet, change the apartment, a hole in the sewer is unfortunately.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Good day!
We have such a problem. When drilling a through hole with a perforator (drill for 12), a cast-iron sewer riser was punched. The pipe (diameter 100cm) is sewn up with plasterboard with ceramic tiles on it. The pipe itself is treated with resin and paint on top (the old one will be covered). The hole from the impact turned out just in the place where the ventilation grill, i.e. there is access to damage. It was decided to quickly buy cold welding "White Titan", after sanding a little around (you yourself understand when it pours out of the hole, you cannot prepare much), put the mass mashed according to the instructions and pressed it with a clamp. The next day I decided to remove the clamp and see how this welding "works". In general, without a clamp, water began to ooze from under it. Then, after a little reflection, I decided to do the following. I cut out a square of about 7x7 cm with a chisel from sheet metal (pre-bending it), and also cut out the same square from rubber with a thickness of about 3 mm and purchased two clamps (101-121 mm) for installing drainpipes. Having made a new batch of welding (having previously removed the old one, quite easily), I covered up the hole, closed everything on top with a sandwich made of a 7x7 square of rubber and steel and pulled it off with two clamps. Now I'm sitting and wondering if a crack could have gone down the pipe down the resin, for example, maybe a puddle has already gathered there. Probably, to calm my conscience, the other day I will carefully dismantle the lower tile and check for the presence of liquid / moisture at the bottom behind the casing. Are the measures taken above sufficient and how long will they last? Will the hole be wasted with water and corrosion over time? They write that the natural loss of cast iron from corrosion is 0.1 mm per year.

28-07-2014: Dr. Lom

If, as a result of the breakdown, a crack has not formed on the pipe, then the measures you have taken should be enough for a long time. Here are just cold welding, if water constantly gets into the hole, it is unlikely to seize normally. In general, the clamp can last for 5 and 15 years, but sometimes you will have to check its condition. As for the loss of cast iron by 0.1 mm per year, I hear for the first time. That way, in 50 years, nothing would have remained from cast-iron pipes, and in some places they serve for 100 years.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Yes, the hole was wet, as the pipe is vertical and there are 8 more floors on top. But the instructions for welding indicated the possibility of working under water. Immediately under the clamp, he wrapped the pipe with toilet paper, using it as a leak indicator. While it's dry.

04-08-2014: Angelina

Hello,
Sewer pipe cracked. The depth (height) of the crack is 11 cm. It cracked in the wide part of the pipe, which from above finds (enters into it) onto the pipe coming from the upper floor, I can see it coming out of the ceiling. It takes place on the 2 (3) floor of a 12-storey brick building built in 1955. The solid pipe does not go all the way to the floor. Approximately 110 cm from the floor, it enters into a wider “neck”, and under the “neck” there is a “hatch” on four large bolts. They turned off the hot water for preventive maintenance, after switching on and the current heat, it was very hot in the toilet, it began to flow through the pipe during rush hours in the morning and evening. Puddles form on the floor, there is no obvious smell now, but when it was very hot it was a little. Because it is very hot in the toilet, 2 cm plywood shelves that are wet through and through during the night have time to dry. The plumber came and said that they would mint.
Advise, please, agree to coining, or insist on replacement. And how can I check the correctness of the work.

04-08-2014: Dr. Lom

Agree to capping, if this does not eliminate the leak, then insist on replacing it. It is easy to control the work - if the leak is eliminated, then the work is done correctly. More details in the article "Sewerage installation rules".

15-11-2014: Nika

good afternoon i have a problem the tee in the toilet gave a crack of 1 mm and a length of 1.5 cm how to fix it with liquid glass with cement it is possible to wrap it with a bandage there is nothing how to dissolve cement and liquid glass advise how best

15-11-2014: Dr. Lom

Judging by your description, the crack is really small. If the water does not ooze through the crack, then you can simply wrap the pipe with a bandage, first pouring cement on the bandage or crack and slightly moisten the bandage. If you use liquid glass, then wetting the bandage does not need the role of water in this case, liquid glass will play. I will not tell you any special proportions, you will see them yourself.

07-12-2014: Timofey

Hello! Please advise a solution to the problem in such a situation. We live in a blocky Khrushchev building on the 5th floor. Water began to drip from the ceiling. The plumber was called. We repaired the fan pipe in the attic, gouging the wall from the side of the entrance (they decided not to touch it from the bathtub - there are beautiful suspended ceilings). No dripping in spring / summer / autumn. Now, after the onset of cold weather, it began to drip again. The plumber was called. They said that they had forgotten to patch up the hole in the attic through which warm air rises from us (we cannot see it, since the ceiling is hinged). The hole was sealed with construction foam. It seems to drip less, but still drips. We put a mobile phone with a camera into the hole of one of the bulbs (after unscrewing it), took pictures. It can be seen that the rail to which the ceiling is attached is damp, i.e. water still flows from the attic. Please, tell me what could be the problem. Hot water, cold water and heating do not go to the attic.

07-12-2014: Dr. Lom

Options 2. Or is it condensation or precipitation flowing down the drain ventilation pipe due to a poorly sealed joint on the roof. In any case, the polyurethane foam does not have waterproofing properties and the pipe joint with the overlap above your ceiling should be sealed with at least a cement-sand mortar from above.

11-12-2014: Igor

Good day. Do not tell me how or how to eliminate small holes less than 1mm in the cast-iron bath. (water seeps out through them)

01-03-2015: Ruslan

I have strong condensation on the cold riser pipe, the neighbor on top (on the 4th floor) has the same thing, he drowns me slowly. Water is constantly making noise through the pipes, that is, water is constantly being drawn. I went up repeatedly to my neighbor on the fifth floor, but this is ineffectual, the family is dysfunctional and it is not possible to assemble the toilet cistern to repair its cistern (we have everything new and repaired) into the apartment. My question is - will it help if I put insulation on the pipe at my neighbor's? or how to remove condensate from pipes? I think it can stick around the pipe with plasticine and make a drain out of it into a separate container, although it may not stay on the cold pipe

02-03-2015: Dr. Lom

First, you should contact the operating organization. She should be more interested than you in so that the water does not drain uselessly down the drain.
Further, it is possible, in principle, to insulate the riser, but not only from the neighbor on top, but also in his apartment, although it is much better to eliminate the cause of the condensation. As a temporary measure, you can put a clamp on the pipe and secure it to a tin or plastic of the appropriate shape so that condensation can drain from it into a separate container. Plasticine is unlikely to help here.

08-06-2015: Egor

Good day!
I have a problem: a leak at the junction on the drain between the cast-iron sewer pipe and the plastic corrugation. There are suspicions that the rubber transition cuff is not holding. I bought a new set of corrugations with a cuff, but the leak at the junction with the cast iron continues. What to do with this leak?

08-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Look at the article "How to dock plastic and cast iron sewer pipes" for possible options.

09-06-2015: Igor

Good day!
Tell me how to tightly drown out the cast-iron sewer outlet under the sink? I need to lay it with tiles (after cutting it flush with a grinder). The problem is that the drain goes inside the concrete wall, and we have one sewer pipe for 2 apartments, the neighbors actively use the sink) I don't use this drain and want to remove it, but I can't figure out how to do it ...
It must be repaired very securely. Welding? Plug? It will not work to fill with concrete, the neighbors have a 15-20 cm branch into a common pipe. Of course, I can carefully hammer in a wooden wedge with a sealant or epoxy, but what will happen then when the piece of wood decays and the neighbors clog up their bath again?

09-06-2015: Dr. Lom

In fact, the installation of one branch for 2 apartments is prohibited by modern standards, so you better contact the operating organization with a requirement to redo the sewerage wiring. If the pipe really clogs, then it will have to be cleaned and possibly from outside your apartment.

09-06-2015: Igor

What problems I can have I represent.
The housing office will not help you in any way! This is a design feature of the 1-510 series. Everyone is good about our insufferable streak, but this is a common channel. the pipe with the neighbors just got me!
Still, answer my specific question, the more it will not oblige you with anything: What would you drown out
an old (50 years old house) cast-iron branch with a diameter of about 50. The condition of the pipe is good. Gas welding? A metal plug for the solution? There will be water in my outlet every six months, when the neighbors have another blockage. The cable from their drain into my plug will not pass and there is simply nothing to clean from my side.

09-06-2015: Dr. Lom

If there is water in your branch once every six months, then a wooden chop will be enough for 20-30 years, maybe more. You can try to fit a plastic plug with a suitable seal. And to cook cast iron, and even hermetically - is not an easy task.

17-06-2015: Valentine

Good afternoon! Can you please tell me what can be used to seal or seal a crack in a cast-iron drain pipe ... you can crawl to the crack from the inside + a humid environment ?? what modern materials can there be? I am now considering cold welding Vaikon, germany.

17-06-2015: Dr. Lom

The article describes the possible options and, in particular, cold welding. There is no objection to cold welding if there is time for it to harden.

17-06-2015: Vasya

Good evening! Today I cleaned the drain pipe from the blockage in the bathroom with a sanitary cable (9 mm), after which a leak was found on the bottom of the pipe (the house is more than 40 years old, "Khrushchev"). It is dangerous to open water, in the bathroom itself and in the sink, in the kitchen - the water is dripping specifically, and the hour is uneven, disgruntled neighbors from below will come ... from the toilet to the faucet in the kitchen. Cast iron - for plastic. And - at our expense. And I have two questions for you. Firstly, is it at our expense, and not at the expense of the management company and thanks to regular deductions for overhaul, should work be carried out to replace the pipe (maybe you know about this?)? And, secondly, is the plumber right that it is necessary to change the pipe from the toilet to the kitchen, and is it realistic to do it yourself, without paying for the services of this comrade from Uzbekistan? Thanks in advance for your answers!

18-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Your questions are fair and not new. Theoretically, you can demand from the Criminal Code not only the replacement of the leaky pipe, but also the cleaning of the clogged sewer, and not do it yourself. And in life, at best, they will put a clamp on a leaking pipe and offer to wait several years or decades before overhaul. And the fact that the plumber from the Criminal Code offered you to change the pipe at your expense is nothing more than the use of official position. In the sense that for such work, you can call any plumber from outside, or even do it yourself. There is nothing difficult in replacing a pipe section from cast iron to plastic; it is not necessary to change the entire pipe to the riser, although it is desirable. Just in case, see the section "Mixed Sewerage".

18-08-2015: novel

Goodnight!
If you don’t help, just break the boxes and change pipes)))
The upper floor of the stalinka, 5 years ago, was completely renovated, the pipe was replaced with plastic 110, through the crosspiece in the ceiling it joins with the old cast-iron (naturally through a rubber sleeve). Everything was ok. The neighbor downstairs made repairs in his toilet (he didn't change the pipes) and ... it started when my drain pressure was dripping ... then it didn't drip for half a year, then it dripped again for 2 days, then again it didn't drip for a month - another. But if we are absent for a long time (a village for a week) upon arrival, he begins to drip intensively. The cross includes a toilet bowl drain and a washing bath-sink-drain. I examined the cross-piece - there are no cracks, inside as I could have missed with a sealant, it did not flow for several months, then again. I already broke my head on the forums. The dudes from the offices and from Avito ... they can't tell. The neighbor shouts, let's break it (I have a cross in the ceiling walled up). HELP WITH ADVICE !!

18-08-2015: Dr. Lom

Roman, I don't think I can calm you down and suggest an option without disassembling the boxes. First, you never found the leak, which is very important. From your description it follows that the cross is new, plastic, and as I understood it was subsequently filled with a screed. The joint between the plastic crosspiece and the cast iron pipe is located in the ceiling. Also, from your description of the problem, we can conclude that the maximum leakage is noted when you use the bathroom. In this regard, it is important to know where exactly the neighbor is dripping. It may not always drip at the point of leakage, often water penetrates through the ceiling where it is easiest to do - at the place where the pipes pass through the ceiling, or at the lowest point of the overlap resulting from the deflection of the floor.
In addition, it is possible that the water pipe rotted in the ceiling, but at the same time the water still flows down the sewer.
And finally, there are no reliable ways to eliminate the leakage of sewer pipes from the inside; as a rule, the leak is eliminated from the outside.

23-08-2015: Olga

Firstly, thanks a lot for your work. Now, secondly, in your reply dated 06/9/2015 you wrote: "Actually, the installation of one branch for 2 apartments is prohibited by modern standards" - if it does not bother you, you really need a link in which document there is such a ban. the issue of repairing the cast-iron sewerage system of the early 50s is being resolved, and it looks like we have just such a branch for 2 apartments. what is the correct name for it - is it a "tap" as a construction term? I will be very grateful for the answer.

24-08-2015: Dr. Lom

1. What is a branch, riser, outlet - you can see in the article "Calculation of internal sewerage. Theoretical prerequisites", there is not only a description but also a picture for better understanding.
2. According to SNiP 2.04.01-85 * clause 17.5: "It is not allowed to connect sanitary appliances located in different apartments on the same floor to one branch pipeline." But perhaps you meant a riser by the branch line.
3. Repair of the sewage system, made according to the old standards, is always not an easy task. For example, look at the article "Sewerage Repair in Stalinka".

28-09-2015: glory

Hello

28-09-2015: glory

I changed the pipes from cast iron to plastic, and the cast iron pipe collapsed, that is, the cup of the pipe is completely, now I don’t put the pipe in at 110, when the unit is flushed, everything flows. And the pipe doesn’t change, it goes to the riser. What to do

28-09-2015: glory

That is, the cuff has nothing to hold on to

28-09-2015: Dr. Lom

It looks like you will have to change the tee or crosspiece, having previously discussed this with your neighbors. More details in the article "How to disassemble a cast-iron sewer riser (part 1)". I do not know of any other reliable methods.

06-11-2015: Evgeniya

good evening, help with advice. the sewer riser, which is located in the shaft in the wall, leaks. the house is 5 floors. I am on the second. they said that part of the pipe needs to be changed. vse is it cast iron and the weight, I think, is considerable?

08-11-2015: Dr. Lom

In theory, pipes should be attached to the walls and thus the load from the pipes should be transferred to the walls. In this case, there is nothing wrong with replacing part of the pipe. But what is the situation in your house, I do not know.

27-02-2016: Dmitriy

Hello! It's just a disaster in our apartment - we can't get rid of the intense sewer smell in the bathroom. Smells from the canal area. standpipe, cast iron. Everything was disconnected from the riser, in all the branches of the crosspiece there are pvc corners and plugs. We reworked all the joints, both on the riser itself (embossing) and the bends (cuff, sealant). Now nothing flows, the smell is the same .. plumbers shrug their shoulders. I have two questions: 1. Is it possible to replace a kan riser with the same cast-iron one in one apartment of a multi-storey building, is there a neighbor on top and neighbors below? 2. How to clean the riser from the outside of the factory bitumen before applying a layer of liquid rubber to the riser (exclude the option of microcracks), neither a brush, nor a solvent, nor a sandpaper is very helpful? Thanks. To understand the scale of the disaster - we made repairs in the apartment - we cannot live in it for almost six months. Zhek ovsky plumbers, not knowing what to do, close their eyes and say that there is no smell.

27-02-2016: Dr. Lom

You may be digging in the wrong direction. The fact is that often the cause of the appearance of an unpleasant odor is the breakdown of the water locks and the likelihood of this is quite high if your neighbor removed the ventilation part of the riser from above and installed a non-return air valve instead.
Look first at the article "Unpleasant odor in the bathroom or toilet. Causes, how to get rid of it."

31-03-2016: Sergey

Good day! Help with advice. Recently, the bathroom was renovated and the cast-iron sewer 100 was replaced with a plastic one. After 6 months, plumbers came from the building and said that I was "heating" the basement (I live on the first floor). They claim that when joining plastic with cast iron, I damaged the cast iron and to fix the problem they want to change the riser all the way to the basement, and for this they need to hammer the tiles and concrete around the cast iron with a puncher, thereby breaking my repair. I didn't let them do it. And by the way, everything is dry after the riser. After the "investigation" I carried out, it turned out that the very hole in the riser is located, so to speak, at the very ceiling of the basement, you drown from the bottom of my apartment. Please tell me if it is possible to carry out work on dismantling the cast-iron pipe from the basement, so to speak, from the bottom up, and not as they suggest to me. And will it be possible to dock my pipe with the basement from below (so that nothing in my bathroom will be broken)?

01-04-2016: Dr. Lom

Perhaps during the repair you did damage the cast iron pipe below your elbow, and the hole you found in the basement may not be the only one. In this regard, for a high-quality repair, in particular for replacing the pipe in the floor and proper sealing of joints, it will be necessary to break the floor. However, this would still have to be done, even if the cause of the leak was not your repair.

In general, flooding of the basement can cause additional uneven settlement of the base and the consequences can be much worse than tiles broken around the riser.

29-05-2016: Olesya

Hello, I found a hole in the cast-iron sewer pipe in the toilet today. The pipes are about 50 years old. The only piece of pipe that has not been changed fits to the riser and the toilet bowl drain connection to it. The hole is even, the size of a 50 kopeck coin; its edges are strong, the entire section of the pipe is also strong. Is it possible to seal with cold welding, as you advised many, and what caused the hole to form?

29-05-2016: Dr. Lom

Actually, the hole diameter is quite large and I would advise you to install a clamp. However, I do not know exactly where your hole is, perhaps cold welding will withstand all possible loads. And why a hole of such a large diameter appeared in the pipe, I do not know, I can assume that it is somehow connected with a factory defect or unforeseen point loads on the pipe.

10-06-2016: Olga

Good day! Your consultation is very necessary. A crack formed in the cast-iron horizontal drain pipe is oozing out (kitchen sink-bathroom-washbasin). How can you solve this problem yourself? If using two-component products, do I need to scrape paint down to metal? I am attaching a photo. Sorry for the kind of pipe. Tenants live there, the attitude is appropriate. They will fix it themselves, because of the remoteness I cannot control the work. P.S. Didn't this crack form in a day or two? Apparently, you need to paint the pipes at least sometimes and keep everything dry? Thank you in advance. Photo http://prntscr.com/bekbfn

10-06-2016: Dr. Lom

In fact, judging by the photo, there is more than one crack (part of the socket is missing, part is chipped off) and the best option would be to completely change the pipes. Nevertheless, you can try to glue them, but at the same time you do not need to use the sewer for at least a few hours. And the crack was formed not due to the fact that the pipes are not painted and wet (they are always not painted and wet inside), but for other reasons, which, however, there is no point in discussing here.

15-06-2016: Olga

Thank you very much!
If you stick it, then as you advise in your article? Do you need to rip off the paint around?
Is it possible that this horror that you reported (part of the bell is missing, another part is chipped off) could survive from the moment the house was delivered (more than 30 years)? And surprisingly, there was never a leak ... It turns out that instead of a normal pipe, the builders put some kind of stub, and covered up the holes? In Soviet times, houses were rented out like that ... I'm shocked ...
Of course, as soon as possible, you need to change the pipes.
In the meantime, temporarily, somehow glue it up.
Still, the cause of the crack is physical wear of the metal?

15-06-2016: Olga

Sorry, after.
You write "Glue THEM." Does it mean that there are several leaks? I see only one crack from the photo ... Can you tell me which piece of pipe you need to glue?

15-06-2016: Dr. Lom

The photo by which I judge is very poor quality, so of course I could be wrong. Nevertheless, I see in the photo the sleeve to the right of the tee, which has a longitudinal and transverse crack on the right flare on top and on the left flare on the side. Moreover, by the nature of the cracks, it can be assumed that part of the left socket has already been split off, i.e. there are cracks at the bottom and it just lies on the screed. As for the missing part of the socket, here I hurried, taking for a part of the socket the painted mortar with which the joints were sealed.

The reason for the appearance of cracks can be factory defects, which were superimposed on heavy loads during installation or operation.

I judge about the presence of a crack only by the presence of rust, i.e. if there is rust, then there is a crack or a leaky joint. Whether a given crack is water-permeable is another matter entirely. For example, cracks on the top of the right flare of the coupling are most likely not allowing water to pass through. Nevertheless, these are cracks and over time they will only grow larger until the coupling completely disintegrates. It is advisable to remove paint and rust before sealing cracks.

04-07-2016: Darya

I am a resident of the 9th floor, neighbors come from the 8th floor and say that we are drowning them, my husband goes down there, one drop flows down a cast-iron pipe, tells them it's condensation, didn't you think? time passes, our bath is dry, all the pipes are replaced except the sewer, a neighbor comes from the 5th floor and says you drown us, they called the locksmith of the management company, he walked down the riser, returned to us and says you need to change the branch kitchen-bath-sewage it drowns everyone, call a paid master let him replace it. called three at the same time, everyone was advised to contact the manager as she must serve the sewer. the price of the issue was set at 10 thousand. I have an expensive renovation in my bath from the previous owners .. what to do? if my apartment is dry !!! my husband and I went down to the 7th floor - the neighbors have dry, no complaints, the 6th floor in the toilet runs along the pipe and along the wall, which drowns as much as the 5th floor.

04-07-2016: Dr. Lom

Darya. Your comment is very emotional, but still it is impossible to determine the cause of the leak and complaints of the neighbors down the riser from it.

And since you inattentively read the materials of the site, then you will have to resolve all issues with a representative of the Criminal Code. All the best.

04-08-2016: Evgeniy

Hello, help with advice.
The situation is such a 9-storey panel house 4-storey joint bathroom unit, they changed the sewage system from the bathtub and washbasin to plastic, the tee to which the toilet was connected was cast-iron, but there's a catch. When the plumber changed the pipes, I noticed how he stretched it a little, about 1-2mm, he didn't say anything, he installed the money, took it and left, I thought it was okay,
but now my doubts crept in if this was normal. Everything works fine, it doesn't seem to flow anywhere. Help with advice, if it's bad, what measures to take? And is it possible to fix it somehow? or in
is it okay and I'm just an alarmist?

04-08-2016: Dr. Lom

In general, if nothing flows anywhere, and even more so there are no cracks, chips or other noticeable damage, then everything is fine. However, if in doubt, ask the upstairs neighbor to drain a couple of buckets of water down the toilet to maximize the load on the riser. If at the same time no leaks are found, then I think everything is fine.

15-08-2016: John

Hello, I need help.
Under the apartment (the wooden floor, which once collapsed), I learned from the neighbors that the knee of the sewer riser was leaking.
a cast-iron knee with a hole about the size of a matchbox on the outside, and a rubber sheet attached to the hole with a wire. How to get rid of the leak forever and what ?? (there is no way to completely wrap or wrap the knee.

16-08-2016: Dr. Lom

In your case, the most reliable way is knee replacement, everything else is half measures. Alternatively, you can try to weld the pad, if possible.

27-08-2016: Alexey

Hello! I have such a problem; I began to change cast-iron pipes to plastic ones in the apartment due to leaks wherever possible and found that there is a crack along the entire length at the entrance to the riser! The nuance is that the crack runs along the bottom of the pipe, and the pipe itself is below the floor level ((! The question is how can this crack be repaired from the inside of the pipe so that later to insert plastic there ???

28-08-2016: Dr. Lom

If the pipes are in such a deplorable state, then it is better to replace them completely, including the tee or cross in the ceiling. Everything else is half measures.

27-09-2016: Yuliya

Hello! Please tell me how you can fill a 20 cm long crack (it seems like it is not hollow) in a cast-iron sewer parking lot, access to it is only open from above, since it is covered with tiles in front, we live on the last 5th floor, a strong smell due to cracks.

27-09-2016: Dr. Lom

You will most likely have to knock down the tiles to gain access to the pipe. I do not know of any other reliable methods other than those described in this article.

13-10-2016: Oleg

Hello! Tell me the proportion of polymer-cement mortar (cement + water + PVA glue), which is written about in the article.

13-10-2016: Dr. Lom

It depends on the consistency of the glue and how strong the solution you want to end up with. Sometimes, when the PVA glue is completely liquid, you don't need to add water at all. Well, so, if approximately, then for one part of water with glue (or just glue) two or three parts of cement, i.e. one to two-three.

12-11-2016: Darya

Good day! My mom moved into an apartment where the sewer riser was painted with gray paint (like the one that is painted over rust). For a while, everything was fine. But, probably six months later, under the layer of gray paint, streaks began to appear (the paint swelled and there was something liquid inside). Here and there, Mom removed these layers of paint that had been peeling off the cast-iron sewer pipe and discovered that under them there was only unpleasant-smelling water and metal. There are now many long rusty streaks along the entire length of the pipe. There is no leakage in the pipe at the joints. I heard somewhere that cast iron sewer pipes must be coated with something before painting. I have an assumption that the previous tenants somehow removed the protective coating from the cast-iron pipe, and then painted it aesthetically - with gray paint. Please tell me how to do it correctly and, most importantly, how to restore the coating of the cast-iron vertical riser in order to put it in order?

12-11-2016: Dr. Lom

As a rule, cast-iron risers are treated with either bituminous varnish (Kuzbass varnish). It is advisable to clean the riser from rust and condensation before application.

23-03-2017: Kate

How can you close up the cold water leak at the junction between the plastic pipe and cast iron. The cast iron pipe rusted to nothing. They called the plumber from the same place, put a clamp with rubber and wire, gave a list of what to buy. The apartment is rented not our owner does not itch. We have a plastic pipe and a granny lives under us, she's not changed and she's not going to change it. Please tell me what can be done because there is no longer the strength to twist the towels. Flowing awful please

23-03-2017: Dr. Lom

Unfortunately, I do not know of any other methods besides those described in the article and in the comments. Look also at the article "How to dock plastic and cast iron sewer pipes."

11-01-2018: valentine

WHAT IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE A SLIT UNDER A TEE WIDTH1MM LENGTH 9CM TO WRAP MARLEY FOR THAT CANNOT A = DRINK WITH LIQUID GLASS WITH CEMENT AND DRIVE INTO THE SCREW ADVISE DON'T KNOW PROPORTION OF VODOKELA

02-03-2018: Svetlana

Good afternoon, Please advise, the last fifth floor, I replaced the background pipe from cast iron to plastic, but a piece of cast iron 10 centimeters remained from the ceiling (so to speak, the roof) to the connection with the plastic pipe, I recently discovered that the pipe is wet, I'm going to make repairs to put a new one tile, well, sew up the fan pipe, and there is moisture, what to do? It seems to me that the whole point is in this remaining small piece of an old cast-iron pipe, maybe there is a way to process it or cover it in some way so that there is no moisture on the entire pipe, Please tell me,

02-03-2018: Dr. Lom

I can assume that this is condensation, which often occurs on cast iron pipes in winter. Now you are unlikely to get rid of it, and in the warm season, you can glue the remaining piece of pipe with some kind of heat-insulating material. It may not be possible to completely get rid of condensation, but it will be much less. However, condensation is also possible on the exhaust part of the plastic pipe.

18-08-2018: Stanislav

Hello there is such a problem. When dismantling the old cast-iron elbow of the toilet bowl, the bowl of the riser was damaged, a hole in the bottom of the bowl was about 5 kopecks. How can it be repaired.

18-08-2018: Dr. Lom

As an option, I can offer the following: a rubber "patch" with a diameter of 2 cm larger than the diameter of the hole (preferably glued), then a bandage of 5-7 layers is wound and impregnated with epoxy resin.

14-12-2018: Egorych

Hello!
A cast-iron coupling began to leak in the toilet, connecting 2 vertical pipes of the riser.
Wrapped it in 3-5 layers with a bandage and a solution of tile glue (Ceresit).
In the place of my winding, there is strong condensation during morning and evening streams of water from neighbors (I have a 2nd floor in a 9-storey building).
What to do? Wrap a few more layers of bandage with solution?

14-12-2018: Dr. Lom

Bandage and tile adhesive are not actually waterproofing materials, so water may continue to ooze after adding multiple layers of mortar bandage.
The safest option in this case is to call the plumbers, but as a temporary measure - bandage with wire or an epoxy bandage.