How to expose a profile for drywall. Necessary materials for mounting profiles under drywall

Working with dry gypsum plaster begins with the installation of profiles for drywall.

The frame is the basis, on the evenness of which the entire result of the work depends, therefore, at each stage of its construction, it is necessary to use the building level.

In general, this work requires concentration and attention.

The key to success in any repair is the selection quality materials and the necessary tools.

When repairs are done by hand, many tools are already in the arsenal of craftsmen, but some special tools will be needed to install a frame made of profiles for drywall.

The list is not small, but there are no extra items in it.

Common tools include:

roulette;
building level;
hammer;
stationery knife;
metal knife;
several spatulas.

Separately, it is worth buying a spatula for corners if you have to create three-dimensional structures.

You will also need a screwdriver and a hammer drill.

Installation of the frame and the drywall itself is impossible without:

anchor wedges;
dowel-nails;
self-tapping screws.

If the room has “littered” walls or a too skewed ceiling, then you will need to use some types of fasteners: direct hangers, crab connectors, profile extensions.

Well, of course - aluminum profiles and drywall as needed.

To ensure that the marked lines, and subsequently erected drywall planes, turn out to be perfectly even, a laser or hydraulic level can be used for work.

These devices save time, since it is quite difficult to determine exactly how skewed the ceiling is or mark the walls with a conventional building level.

A cord breaker may also come in handy. For a kind of soundproofing, craftsmen use sealing tape when installing load-bearing profiles.

If soundproofing is to be done thoroughly, then the materials must be appropriate.

Finishing work requires an acrylic primer, putty, reinforcing tape for seams, and it may also be necessary to treat the original surface with an antifungal solution.

The market is now offering different kinds drywall for both interior and exterior use.

To make repairs with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the following ones: ordinary and moisture resistant.

For finishing rooms subject to high humidity, it is better to use the latter.

It is also worth choosing reliable connecting elements and aluminum profiles from trusted manufacturers.

Wall decoration with drywall

The secrets of perfectly smooth walls often lie in right choice finishes.

Definitely, having estimated the time, effort, money spent on work, as well as the final result, we can say with confidence that drywall - perfect solution for imperfect walls.

Work begins with markup. Lines are drawn on the floor along which the bearing profiles and markings for vertical elements will be located. These lines should be equidistant from each other.

At standard width sheet one meter twenty centimeters, this distance is sixty centimeters. This is done so that the joints of the sheets fall exactly in the middle of the profile.

The first vertical profiles should be at some distance from the corners. Other secrets of mounting a frame for drywall are revealed in the next video.

The construction of the frame begins with a guide profile fixed to the floor. After that, vertical elements will be placed along the drawn lines.

Their length should correspond to the height of the room, but the standard length is usually greater than the height of the walls.

This is not a problem, because aluminum elements are easy to cut even with your own hands using metal scissors.

Before starting the installation of the vertical components of the frame, suspensions are attached to the wall with a step of 50–60 centimeters, on which profiles will subsequently be installed.

If the height of the walls exceeds standard length a sheet of two and a half meters, then drywall must be installed in a run. This raises the need for additional transverse jumpers.

They should also be installed, taking into account the fact that they should have a joint. The remaining places are filled with pieces of drywall cut to size.

Installation is carried out on self-tapping screws in increments of up to 25 centimeters.

Construction of new drywall walls

If you need to divide the space into several rooms, drywall can prove to be the best.

A special advantage of this material is its Fire safety, without this quality it is impossible to even talk about electrical wiring inside the wall.

In addition, all the work can be done by hand.

Having previously drawn up a plan of the room, you can begin to mark the design position of future walls.

Structural lines are easier to apply using a laser level and a cord breaker.

secrets correct use of these tools are presented in the video.

Walls, especially in older houses, almost never form perfectly right angles to each other.

There is always some error, which leads to the fact that the distance between the opposite partitions at the beginning and end is different.

Taking this into account, the drywall construction should be placed at an equal distance from opposite walls. Then it will not be noticeable that the room has a non-ideal shape.

In addition, the construction drywall partition should be the last stage of the repair, that is, the walls and ceiling should be puttied.

According to the marks, the installation of the lower load-bearing profiles is carried out. The distance between the attachment points should not be more than a meter, each element should have at least three dowels.

In the same way, guide profiles are attached to the ceiling. After measuring the height of the room, the rack profiles are cut and installed.

Those that adjoin the walls are mounted using sealing tape, those that form the doorway need to be strengthened.

How to do this is described in the video above.

After installing the extreme racks, the remaining space must be filled with vertical elements in increments of sixty centimeters and horizontal lintels, as in wall cladding.

After pulling out the electrical wiring, you can attach drywall to one side aluminum frame and lay insulating material.

Drywall on the second side of the frame is attached so that the joints of the sheets on both sides do not match.

Before finishing puttying the walls, the seams are primed and sealed with a sickle, the recessed heads of the self-tapping screws are also hidden under the putty.

Frame for plasterboard ceiling

Some types of false ceilings and similar structures are built not only for aesthetic purposes, with the help of drywall boxes communications or unsightly beams are hidden.

Also, if necessary, additional heat and sound insulation can be hidden in these structures.

Do-it-yourself ceiling installation hands light cannot be named. But if necessary and with sufficient practice, the result can pleasantly surprise you.

This will take a lot of time, but if you wish, you can even make a two-level structure with your own hands.

The plasterboard ceiling, like the previous types of plasterboard structures, is fixed at the stage when other surfaces (except the floor) are ready.

Installation also begins with marking the walls and ceiling.

If not laser level and a cord breaker, then the markings can be done with your own hands using a pencil and building level.

Guide profiles are attached to the walls along the marked lines with dowels using sealing tape.

The frequency of attachment points should be at least fifty centimeters, at least three for each profile. After that, direct suspensions are attached to the ceiling.

The distance between the suspensions is determined by the load applied in the future. After installing the supporting profiles, transverse jumpers are installed.

The step of the transverse elements must be uniform, with standard sizes sheet, it is advisable to take a step equal to 50 centimeters.

First bearing profile from the wall should be 10 centimeters away. Cross jumpers are attached with a crab connector.

How to properly attach such clamps is well shown in the following video.

After installing the frame, you can proceed to sheathing it with drywall. Cutting sheets is done with a clerical knife or a special knife for drywall.

Sheets should be fastened in a run. Self-tapping screws should be placed with a frequency of 15-20 centimeters, leaving a centimeter from the edge “in reserve”.

Finishing

In order for the result of the work to be durable, you need to follow some rules for working with drywall.

When mounting sheets on the frame, it is necessary that the screw heads are slightly recessed, the screws must be staggered at a distance of ten millimeters from the edge of the sheet.

The cardboard at the attachment points should not be disheveled. Before installing from drywall, you need to cut off the chamfer at an angle - this will make it easier to seal the seams in the future.

When creating rounded structures, for example, on a multi-level ceiling, smooth lines from profiles and drywall can be achieved with your own hands by making frequent cuts on the profile or on one side of the sheet.

Finishing includes priming and sealing seams using sickle. Also, recessed caps of self-tapping screws are hidden under the putty.

After drying and sanding, apply finishing layer putties. The last step is painting.

Having started repairs in the house, you may be doing the installation of drywall profiles on the walls. Of course there are various options execution of the frame under the gypsum board, but it is the metal profiles, correctly assembled into a single structure, that provide a strong and lightweight foundation for future walls.

Using a metal profile for drywall is one of the most reliable options for installing drywall.

The option of such a base has become much more preferable in the modern concept of repairs, because such a material has a lot of advantages when compared with traditional wood. But installing a profile for drywall requires compliance with technology and correct selection materials, otherwise such a wall will not last long. What you need to know about installation work Oh?

Necessary set of materials and tools

Installing profiles for drywall requires the necessary minimum of tools:

Measuring: building level, tape measure, if necessary - a plumb line.
For cutting metal: grinder, metal scissors (as an alternative - a hacksaw).
Power tool: perforator, screwdriver (drill).
Fasteners: direct suspensions, dowel-nails, press washers, "fleas".

Direct hangers - a strip of metal with perforation, which is designed to rigidly fix the structure to the walls.

Dowel-nails - plastic dowels with screws, which instead of a gimlet at the end have a point like a nail.

The press washer is a self-tapping screw with a wide hat and a gimlet. It is applied in various connections on metal.

"Fleas" ("bugs") - small self-tapping screws with a gimlet, used to connect direct suspensions with frame racks.

Briefly about profile types

The entire frame is assembled from two types of profile.

CD is a rail that is used for the main posts and lintels of the frame. It is made in the form of a gutter with curved edges, along the entire length it has stiffeners. For this type of work, they take a size of 60 × 27 millimeters, where these are, respectively, the width and height of the shelf.

UD is the basis of the whole structure, or guide. Mounted on the surface of the floor and ceiling. Made in the form of the letter "P" without stiffeners and bends. Size: width - 28 mm, height - 27 mm.

Both types of this element are coated with a protective zinc coating to prevent corrosion.

This minimum set what you need for installation work.

Mounting profile for drywall

Some technologies during installation work may differ from different masters in some small things. But the main process is the same, this is the fastening of the guides and the assembly of the entire structure. So, how is the installation of a profile under drywall on the walls?

Evaluation and markup

All construction always begins with marking and drawing up an installation plan. It is only in TV programs that they show the finishing of perfectly flat surfaces, in reality everything is not so and the walls, as a rule, have irregularities.

The main stage of frame installation is the calculation and purchase of the necessary tools.

After examining the wall, using the building level, the curvature of the walls is established and the most protruding parts of the surface are found. Further mark will focus on them.
A mark is made along the wall on the floor where the structure guide will be mounted. You should not mark up butt to the surface, it is better to make a small indent of 10 - 15 millimeters. If there are significant differences, then the distance increases. Of course, this will reduce the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room, but to do this
necessary to level the walls. You will have to retreat somewhat if it is planned to lay engineering lines under the gypsum plasterboard or wall insulation.
The same mark is made on the walls on the left and right. For convenience, you can use a marking cord. Vertical marking is carried out, be sure to check the level.

Installation of guide profiles

For guides frame structure take a UD profile. It is installed according to the markings on the floor in the form of an inverted letter "P". Fastening is done on dowel-nails with a step of 500 mm.
Such guides are also mounted on the walls on the left and right. At one end they are inserted into the floor rail. After checking the level, they are fixed with the same dowels.
Now the ceiling guide is fixed. The ends are inserted into the vertical and attached to the ceiling. To verify the correct installation of the upper profile, a CD rack rail is placed in the middle of the structure and checked with a level. If everything is correct, the ceiling is also fixed on dowels with nails.

If the length of the wall of the room is greater than the length of the guide rails, then they are spliced. To do this, one end of the rail is inserted into the groove of the other with an overlap of 400 millimeters and interconnected with press washers.

After checking the level of the location of the guides, they begin to install the rack rails.

Installation of frame racks

Racks are made using the CD marking profile.

It is produced in lengths of 2.5 and 3 meters, if necessary, it is cut to the desired height of the room. In this case, a grinder or other tool for cutting metal is used.
For greater strength, one rack can be inserted into the vertical guides, fastening them together with “fleas”.
The width of the drywall is 1200 mm, you need to position the racks so that the joints of two adjacent sheets fall in the middle of the rail (30 millimeters will be enough to secure each of the edges of the plasterboard).
Three rack rails are usually installed on one drywall element, but it is better to mount four. This will greatly strengthen the structure of the future wall.
After the racks are in the desired position, they are attached to the guides from below and from above with press washers.
The location of all rack profiles must be exactly level, which is verified during the installation process.
Having exposed the racks and secured them, they are connected to the walls using direct suspensions.

The plates are applied to the surface of the wall under the racks and marks are made with a marker where the dowels will be clogged.

Holes are punched under the dowels according to the marks, a plate is applied and a dowel is inserted into which a nail is hammered.
The edges of the hangers are brought to the rack profile and rigidly fixed using “flea” screws. Excess ends are bent or cut off.

During the fixation of the profile to the suspensions, the racks cannot be excluded. How to set a profile for drywall, avoiding such a problem? You can temporarily fix the rail along the entire wall at approximately the middle of the height of the room. After connecting the racks with suspensions, it is removed.

When installing the frame, first on the wall you need to find the most protruding parts, and then, focusing on them, make markings.

The number of hangers per frame rack can be three to four pieces. First fix all the plates in the center, and then the rest.

The height of the drywall sheet is 2.5 meters. What if the room is higher? To do this, in a checkerboard pattern at the locations of the sheets, jumpers are made from above and below. They are also made from a CD-profile, in which the shelves are cut off at both ends. The rest is applied to the racks and fixed on the press washers.

At this stage, the installation of the profile for drywall is considered complete, and then proceed to the sheathing of the frame.

What to do if the distance of the frame from the wall does not allow the use of direct hangers? Trimming racks and rails are great for this. Taking a piece of the rail of the desired length, make cuts on the side shelves and bend inward at a right angle. This method of fastening is very durable and will allow you to retreat from bearing walls to the distance required for insulation or laying any communication lines.

Today we will learn how to fix a drywall profile to a wall. In other words, in this article we will completely construct metal carcass, on which we will later mount large sheets drywall.

How to attach a drywall profile to a wall. crocodiles

The question of how to attach a drywall profile to a wall begins with the attachment of U-shaped hangers, colloquially - crocodiles. In the previous lesson, we marked on the wall the places where the crocodiles will be attached with this:

If the wall is old wooden or made of plaster, then the suspensions to the wall must be fixed with a screwdriver and wood screws. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a puncher and 60x40 or 60x50 will be required to attach the hangers to the wall.

So, we take the suspension and put it against the wall so that the central vertical marking line runs exactly in the middle of the suspension (as if dividing it into two parts), and the horizontal line through the holes in the suspension, through which we will attach the suspension to the wall:

With any work with drywall, you still have to create a diagram of the upcoming design, as well as calculate the required amount of materials, including profiles.

Rails for working with drywall

Remember that the more accurately and correctly the drawing is made, the less error you will make when buying.

To date, profiles for installing GKL are of the following types:

UD guides. They are usually mounted around the perimeter. Such profiles are responsible for the strength of the assembled frame. Rack profiles are attached to them;

Guides "UD"

rack "CD". Their installation is carried out between the leading profiles. They are usually fixed every 60 cm. They are used to screw drywall sheets to the created frame.

Necessary calculations

the number of guides "UD" is determined by the formula. First, to the height of the wall multiplied by “2”, we add its length multiplied by “2”. Then we multiply the resulting amount by the correction factor, which is 1.2. We divide this figure by 3 (three meters is the length of one guiding profile). As a result, we get the required number of rails. If the output is not an integer, round it up;
the number of rack "CDs" is calculated using a different formula. The length of the room (the figure is given in cm) is divided by 60 and multiplied by the correction factor, which is 1.2. Subtract one from the obtained value and get the number of rack "CDs". If the value is not an integer, it is also rounded up.

Determining the number of necessary jumpers for a frame for drywall can be done in several ways.
To carry out the required calculations, you need to know the width of the distance between the rails and their number. For this we need:

divide the length of the wall by 0.6 (the figure represents the distance between the rack rails, or rather, their centers);

Distance between guides

as a result, we get the number of jumpers per span. If the result is a residue that is only 10 cm, then in this case the jumper rail is not installed in this place at all;
we multiply the resulting number by the volume of jumpers required to install drywall for one span and get the final figure. That is how much we need jumper rails.

The width of the profile is a fixed figure - 5 cm. In the calculations, you need to lay an additional 10 cm on each side of the guide. Now we subtract the width of the profile rails from the distance between them and add additional cm. So, we got: 60-5 + 20 = 75.
Further:

the resulting number (75) is multiplied by the number of jumpers for the entire frame;
divide the result of multiplication by 300 cm (the length of one guide rail);
as a result, we get a figure that needs to be rounded up and we get the desired number!

In another way, you can find out not only the number of guides, but also the required volume of the rack profile.

Note! All vertical rails must be oriented in the same direction, i.e. all of them must be attached on one side (it is better to navigate along the “empty side”).

multiply the total number of jumpers by 10 cm (the length of the segment);
round the resulting figure. Usually it is approximately equal to 300 cm, which is the length of one guide;
then the jumper length is used. Since the distance between the leads is 60 cm, the length of the jumper will be the same. Here it is necessary to take away a couple of cm, which will go to the mount. As a result, we get approximately 58 cm;
multiply the total number of jumpers by 58 and divide by the length of one guide;
round the resulting figure and get the number of rack rails.

It is worth remembering that in order to get the number of U-shaped hangers for fixing drywall, a slightly different formula is used. It has the following form: we multiply the number of rack "CDs" by 5.
This type of calculation is applicable to any wall structure.

Calculations depending on the ceiling assembly scheme

determine the distance from the base of the frame to the ceiling. This distance depends on the degree of unevenness and the presence / absence of built-in lighting. For example, when using spotlights, you need to retreat at least 5 cm;
if there are no built-in lamps, then the base of the structure can be mounted directly on the ceiling;
the consumption of the main profile will be equal to the perimeter of the room. The resulting number is rounded up;
for a plasterboard ceiling base, the distance between adjacent rails is 50-60 cm.

One-level ceiling frame

Determining the amount of rack "CD":

since the distance between adjacent guides can be from 50 to 60 cm, then the length of the jumpers can be 48-58 cm, by analogy with the frame for plasterboard walls;
further calculations are carried out according to the same scheme that is described for the walls.

If the ceiling has a small perimeter, then you can do without jumpers.
Calculation for a multi-level ceiling.
GKL allow you to create a wide variety of ceiling structures. It all depends on the financial capabilities and imagination of the owner of the apartment. Therefore, the frame scheme can contain a wide variety of elements of any complexity. In this case, the structure itself can contain from two to several levels. Therefore, each level with the calculated parameters must be indicated on the drawing.
Installation of a multi-level ceiling requires:

reinforcing the frame so that it can withstand all the required load;
should be strengthened only where it is necessary - near vertical section. Otherwise, we will overload the frame, and it may fall on its head.

Multi-level frame construction

Calculations of such ceiling structure looks like that:

the first level is calculated by analogy with simple suspended ceilings from GKL. This level is the same regardless of the type of subsequent levels;
since the structure is being reinforced here, the rack profiles are fastened more often - every 50 cm. In this case, it is better to reduce the distance between the guides and make a maximum of 50 cm;
then we do all the calculations by analogy with the first level of the ceiling base.

Second level:

rack "CD" are attached more tightly. The distance between them will now be 40 cm;
the same size should take a step between the transverse jumpers;

Note! These parameters apply only to that section of the structure, which will bear the main load.
All other elements must be calculated based on their perimeter (for rectangular and square parts) or diameter (for round, elliptical and oval parts).
The distance between two levels is determined by the built-in backlight. The most optimal distance between two ceiling levels is 60 mm.
By following these guidelines, you can easily do everything necessary calculations on one's own.

We fix the cornices to the plasterboard walls

V recent times, finishing the house with such material as drywall is becoming increasingly popular. After all, with the help of this material, you can quickly create a stylish and original interior. Arches, niches or volumetric compositions in the walls, multi-level ceilings- these are just a few examples of what can be done with drywall, which is quite easily bent into the shape you need. There are two ways to install drywall: frame and frameless. Which one you should choose depends on the functions that the design you conceived should perform, however, keep in mind that drywall installed on the frame will last you longer, allow you to hide some communications and hide the unevenness of the walls. How to install a profile for drywall with your own hands - read on.

Before you mount the frame on which the drywall sheets will be attached, you need to prepare a profile, the elements with which you will connect them together and auxiliary construction tools.

Let's see what profiles and connectors you may need:

Vertical and rack profiles for creating partitions, perforated along the entire length (CB or PS);
Guide profiles with a section of 28X27 mm, they will lie horizontally (UD or PN);
Profiles for the base of the frame, having a section of 60X20 mm and a length of 2 to 6 meters (SD or PP);
Guide holding profiles PS (UV or PN).
Arched profile (PA);
Corner reinforcement profile (PU);
A two-level or one-level connector that provides connection of the frame base profiles;
Direct suspension, to which the profile PP will be attached;
Anchor hanger extends the direct hanger;
Element extending the PP profile;
"Crab" to strengthen the intersection of profiles.

There are also additional tools that you must have to mount the frame.

Namely:

Drill;
Screwdriver:
Water or laser level.
Dowels and screws.
Chopping cord.
Metal scissors.

Of course, you may not need all of the above materials, this is just a general list of drywall frame components. What elements you need exactly depends on what kind of design you want to get.

The sequence of work when installing drywall on the frame

If you decide to finish the walls and ceiling in your apartment with drywall, you do not have to try hard when preparing the base surface on which the frame will be attached. Enough to get rid of the remnants of the old facing materials decorating the surfaces of the room.

When installing profile frame, all irregularities and imperfections will be hidden behind sheets of drywall.

So, let's look at the main steps for installing drywall constructions:

First you need to mark the ceiling and walls for the installation of frame profiles.
Now, you need to draw wires to the locations of spot and central lighting, taking into account the passage metal elements drywall frame.
The time has come to install the frame on the ceiling.
Mount the frame under the plasterboard structures on the walls.
Assemble drywall construction on walls and ceiling.
Carry out finishing work.

As you can see, in order to make the repair of your dreams with the help of drywall, it will not take you so much time. How to assemble a frame for a ceiling or plasterboard wall, we will talk separately.

How to connect drywall profiles on the ceiling

Plasterboard suspended structures- one of the most popular ways to decorate the ceiling. Such designs hide all the irregularities on the ceiling and allow you to perfectly zone the space, using plasterboard steps and spot lighting.

Let's look at the main assembly positions of the frame for drywall:

First of all, using a water or laser level, you need to determine the place where the ceiling is at the lowest possible level. It is important to set the level correctly, otherwise the new ceiling will be uneven, and you will have to redo all the work done.
Now you need to calculate the distance from the base ceiling to the new drywall construction, for this you need to know the height of the spotlight elements (if any).
When the basic calculations are made, we mark a line on the wall with a chopping cord, measuring a distance from the ceiling equal to the height of the plasterboard frame.
Using self-tapping screws, fasten the wall guide profile at this level.
Make a markup for ceiling profiles using a chopping cord into squares with a perimeter of 60 cm.
At the points where you plan to install lighting or any other communications, attach traverses.
Bend straight hangers with the letter P and place on the ceiling at the intersection of the lines that you marked earlier.
Profile guides are inserted into the bent hangers and fastened with self-tapping screws at the level of the wall guide profile.
Cut the profile with scissors for metal into the necessary segments for their transverse installation.
Then connect the profile guides with self-tapping screws to the transverse profiles with an approximate step of 60 cm.
The intersection of the guides and transverse profiles is reinforced with crabs.

The profile frame for installing the drywall construction is ready, now you have to.

Wall construction from a profile for drywall

Installing the frame for drywall on the wall is done so that the room can be additionally insulated, it differs from those described above ceiling work. Each wall is finished in turn from start to finish, that is, first you build the frame and attach drywall to it on one wall, and only then proceed to design the other. The most difficult thing is to install a structure for plasterboard sheathing on walls where there is a window, since such works have a lot of subtleties and nuances.

All work with electricity is carried out before mounting the profile frame to the walls.

Let's see how to install a drywall frame on a wall with a window:

If you want to insulate the wall, then measure 5 cm from the base slopes. When the window sill is already installed, you should also take into account the thickness of the drywall.
Measure 5 cm from the window frame (distance to the outer frame guide).
Attach a guide profile to the bottom of the window sill to reduce the step width.
Attach the profile guides to the ceiling and to the floor.
Now install one guide profile on adjacent walls (these will be the extreme guides).
Make a marking with vertical lines in 60 cm increments on the wall from the ceiling to the floor guide, using a plumb line, a level and a chopping cord for this.
On each line at a distance of 60 cm, install straight hangers.
Attach vertical profiles to the hangers using self-tapping screws. They should rest against the rails on the ceiling and on the floor.
Now connect the vertical profiles with the transverse segments. The step between them should be no more than 60 cm.
In the corner between adjacent walls, install two vertical guides, on which attach the corner starting profile.

The wall frame is ready, it remains to put the insulation and mount the drywall sheets. Of course, it is not necessary to install drywall on the frame, but in this case you will not be able to insulate the walls and hide the wires and communications on the ceiling.

Correct installation of the profile for drywall (video)

Follow our advice, and you can easily build a frame for drywall on your own.