Grinding a log house - how to make a wooden house truly beautiful? Rules for polishing rounded logs How old wooden houses are polished.

We hope that you have already read the section on the construction of a bath, about this in detail (or you can go to the first photo in the left menu). But, in addition to the installation of the bathhouse and the erection of a roof over it, in 2011 we managed to hold a number of events in the house itself. Completing the set-up process new apartment, we will devote the whole next 2012 year to bringing to mind a log house and, if possible, then a bathhouse. This article will talk about the features of grinding the walls of a log house (in this case wooden walls right at home).

When you communicate with construction companies at the stage of designing and manufacturing a log house, somehow you can’t even imagine all the burden of problems for the further construction of a house or a bath that you will have to take on your shoulders in the future. And this situation is certainly true not only for log houses and baths, but also for any suburban construction.

But when all these problems begin to arise, you begin to appreciate the beauty of human relationships, because in one company they will simply turn away from you as soon as you have paid the last payment, while in others they will be willing to help and answer questions even several years after completion construction of a log house. I am very pleased that the Rus Log Company belongs to the second category, in fact, that is why I ordered a bathhouse from them this year, and for the same reason I am writing these lines.

Having filled the "bumps" in the construction of the house, and now also the baths, I understand that other developers will also face these problems. Therefore, let our experience and the advice that we received from the specialists of "Rus ..." become available to other clients of this company, and simply to connoisseurs of wooden chopped houses and baths.

So, our today's story is devoted to grinding the walls of the house. Well, to be more precise, this year we sanded and painted internal walls in the house, as well as internal and external walls in the log cabin of the bath. We will talk about the polishing of the bath and its coloring in separate articles (see links), there we will briefly dwell on the features relating specifically to the work on the bath. We will also talk about painting the walls of the house in a separate article, this issue was also not as simple as we thought before.

Photo of the living room in 2011 after sanding the walls.

How our walls look after grinding can be seen in the previous photo. Of course, the house began to be perceived in a completely different way. The only thing, my main mistake is that it was necessary to engage in grinding before installing floors and ceilings, but we will dwell on this in more detail a little later. And now let's go through all that difficult path together, which led to such beauty.

Note from autumn 2013. It is always interesting to look ahead a little in order to understand, but in fact for the sake of what all this was started. In the next photo you can see how the living room began to look after grinding and painting the walls. Well, at the same time, and after a number of other events (from the fireplace and underfloor heating, to tiles and doors).

Photo of the same living room, but taken in the fall of 2013.

The initiative is punishable or how I sanded the walls in a log house

At first glance, you can’t say that sanding the walls of a log house is a hard job that requires skill, strength and endurance. When about two years ago I found out roughly how much it would cost me to polish the house from the inside, I said: yes, what kind of nonsense is this, I can do it myself. Think - drive and drive grinder. I was also motivated by my good friend and senior comrade, let's call him Yu.V., since I did not ask for his consent to this publication. He at one time (being a teacher, having two higher educations, a PhD and an associate professor) built country house for your father in law. In short, in addition to a refined mind and a rather sharp tongue, which many were afraid of, he also had golden hands.

Of course, at work, we often discussed the construction of my and his dachas. And once he asked me, what did I actually do in the country with my own hands, because you need to put your soul and heart into the house. So, I say, my wife and I seem to have developed the project in agony, I myself planned and wired the electrician, perhaps that’s all. And he told me - well, can't you yourself be able to sand the walls, and indeed, I thought, why not. By the way, Yu.V. I was very unlucky with the builders, he also built a log house, but he ordered it through mutual friends, and they let him down.

heavy men's work- grinding the walls of the log house

No sooner said than done. I already knew at that time that they were grinding log walls angle grinder, in the common people - a grinder. Going to a large hardware store, I asked to show me all the attachments for the grinder. Having chosen two, in my opinion, the most suitable ones, I asked them to choose disks for them. I also already knew that wheels with a grain size of 80 are used for grinding. I especially liked the German attachment with Velcro, it was, of course, a little expensive (about 1000 rubles), but, in my opinion, very convenient.

Arriving at the dacha, I dropped everything and rushed to try my acquisitions in action. I had the good sense to start from an "invisible" place. In the bathroom on the first floor, I chose the wall where the shower cabin will stand. The very first attempt at polishing showed that it was far from being so simple. The grinder was simply pulled out of my hands and thrown from side to side, from under the circle on a new skin, sparks began to fly in all directions, because of this, bullies arose, I could not make a smooth strip, everything turned out in some kind of waves.

But the most unpleasant surprise was waiting for me when I tried to grind the log at the horizontal junction between the crowns. My vaunted German bait with its upper (i.e., back to the skin) part left a thick black stripe on a nearby log. Another thing that struck me unpleasantly was that the 80s disks wore out at a very incredible rate. Brought packaging discs melted before our eyes. I tried the second nozzle in the case, where the grinding disc was fixed with a bolt. As it turned out later, this was already closer to the truth, but even here it was very difficult to grind logs in cuts and at joints. I reinstalled the German Velcro attachment, but in my disappointment I forgot to attach the sanding disc itself. When I began to guide the grinder along the log, I immediately felt that something was wrong. And then it dawned on me that “it was not about the reel ...” and I myself ditched the nozzle for almost a thousand rubles. This was the last "dot over i" and I finally realized that everyone should mind their own business.

Later, watching the work of the guys and talking with them, I realized some of my mistakes. First, you need another (second) nozzle. Secondly, new disk you must first grind off a little on the auxiliary section of the log (usually in the openings under interior doors, what will be covered with casing boxes in the future) - at the same time, the largest grains fly off and the disk will not “cut” the log and spark. Thirdly, I realized that the grinder should be moved not with the movement of the hands, but with the shoulders and forearms, then the smoothness and parallelism of the movement will be achieved, respectively, the log will turn out to be even and without “waves”. The last recommendation will be clear to volleyball and tennis players. In volleyball, when receiving the ball with two hands from below, you also need to “work” with your shoulders and torso, and not bend your arms at the elbows, otherwise the ball will fly in an unpredictable direction. Similarly, in tennis, when receiving the ball with a racket held with two hands, it is also required similar work the whole body, not just the hands.

We digress a little. In short, even if I knew all this in theory, it would still be hard work in practice. But it was still necessary to scrape with a chisel upper layer wood in the corners. In short, then I clearly decided for myself that I needed to do something around the house or the bathhouse, but I needed to do what I was good at.

By the way, to be objective, I was not the only one who had such a “crazy” thought. With the light hand of the staff of "Rus", I met and maintain friendly relations with Maxim Marinin, our famous figure skater and just wonderful person(editor's note, more details about the bathhouse built by Maxim Marinin are described).

Since we are in approximately the same state with him, in the sense of being dragged into the construction process, we periodically exchange interesting and useful information on various aspects of construction. So, once Maxim wrote that he had bought a good grinder (not a grinder, but a specialized grinder) and plans to grind the log cabin of the bath on his own. He, like me, was alarmed by the cost of this work - at first glance, it seems overpriced. I told him my above-described story and recommended nevertheless to give it at the mercy of specialists, and to do something more familiar myself. But Maxim, as determined as I am, decided to try everything on his own experience. The result turned out to be similar, we both realized that “Caesar is Caesar’s”, and it’s better to earn money in the usual way for yourself – it will be more efficient.

Tools and consumables for grinding

Before bringing the builders to the country, I took care of buying grinding discs. The question turned out to be rather non-trivial. But first, a few words about the process itself. The main plane of the chopped walls is cleaned with a grinder with a nozzle on which a grinding disk is bolted. But there are places where the grinder does not reach - these are the corners of cuts, walls near the ceiling or near the floor (if you, like me, have already installed the floor). There you have to work manually - with a chisel. The photo below shows two such corners of the cuts. The upper corner has already been cleaned with a chisel, but the lower one has not, circles are clearly visible where the disk could get.

Work with a chisel in the corners of cuts. A layer of wood has been manually removed in the upper corner, but not yet in the lower corner.

It is clear that grinders, nozzles and chisels are the concern of builders, but I advise you to take care of grinding discs separately so that unpleasant incidents do not happen.

Grinding discs went in batches. The photo on the left shows in blue a mark on the grain size of the disc (60)

The best option is if the builders take over the "extraction" of grinding discs, it is more difficult if you have to do this (for example, buy more). The fact is that these disks require a very large number. Offhand, it took us about two and a half boxes for the house and the bathhouse. Each box contains 8 packs, each pack contains 25 discs. In total, there are 200 discs in a box, in total it took about 500-600 discs. As the builders told me, it takes from 1 to 3 discs per square meter of wall, so count. By the way, you need to calculate the area, and hence the amount of work, and therefore your costs, correctly. Masters use the so-called height factor. The fact is that your walls are uneven, but with rounded crowns. Therefore, several control measurements are made, a tape measure is taken, and all the bends of the crowns are wrapped around the tape. It turns out that with a ceiling height of, say, 2.5 meters, the actual height of the wall is about 3 meters. This was news to me, but not to you now.

Let's get back to disks. If you go to a hardware hypermarket and try to buy that many discs there, you'll find it cheaper to cover the walls with gold leaf. Of course, I had to buy several dozens of disks on the fly, especially with an increased diameter (150 mm), to be honest, this is not a cheap deal.

So what to do? There is a way out: turn to " domestic manufacturer"! The matter is that the supermarkets mostly sell imported products, and the specialists of “Rus Log” recommended purchasing disks from the Luga Abrasive Plant – they are several times cheaper, and the quality is not much inferior to imports. It is clear that not everyone will be able to “hit the road” to Luga, look for this plant, etc. It will be optimal here if the builders organize it. I am grateful to the leadership of "Rus ..." that I had no problems with this. Moreover, usually large construction companies, like Log Rus, buy these discs in bulk (wholesale means several dozen boxes, i.e. thousands of discs), which costs them much less than if you came to the factory yourself. Unfortunately, more precisely to my sincere amazement, the Luga plant has neither a representative office nor even a sales outlet in St. Petersburg, which is a pity.

And one more aspect concerning disks is their grain. For the final sanding, 80 or 60 grit discs are used (see the circled numbers in the photo above). Of course, the result of using sandpaper 80 is more pleasant to the touch, but most likely it will have to be sanded already in the second layer, and the first time you will go through a coarser sandpaper. In the house we made the 80th, and in the bathhouse the 60th, but already in one layer. In principle, it feels almost imperceptible, especially after painting. By the way, looking ahead, I’ll say that after the first layer of water-based varnish, you will have to sand the walls again, this time just by hand, without a grinder, because. exactly water varnish lifts all the pile formed on the surface. But we will talk about this in more detail in a separate article.

In addition to 60 and 80, builders use grinding discs with a grain of 40 - for grinding the ends of logs, of course, this skin will take much less. I repeat - that ideally, all these problems should be taken over by the builders so that you do not have to leave your work and business to rush around St. Petersburg and the Leningrad Region in search of certain grinding discs.

So, by the middle of summer, I had a paradoxical situation, that there seems to be money for construction and builders on individual works Yes, but I can't get started. The fact is that at that time I was kept by grinding the walls in the house. I could not install casings and internal architraves on windows (the specifics of our windows are described) without grinding the walls. For the same reason, I could not lay plumbing communications around the house, make warm floors, etc., respectively. But the most important thing is the fireplace. The fireplace is single song". It was designed for us according to the author's project based on the Swedish Keddy fireplace cassette. We decided to make the lining of the fireplace from soapstone, it was ordered in the winter and by the summer it was finally ready. The installation of the fireplace, as you understand, was also held by grinding. And the fireplace itself held the insulation of the roof of the house (by the way, we did not have time to make the roof this year and postponed it to 2012).

I called Denis Migachev, Gen. director of "Rus" and asked if his "fighters" could polish my house, and at the same time a bathhouse. He replied that, unfortunately, all the brigades were busy and were on the road, which best case the nearest brigade will be released in 3-4 weeks. I did not want to wait so long, the summer is passing. We called a call among our acquaintances and one distant friend of a friend said that he has in mind people who have experience in grinding walls wooden houses. At that time, I did not yet know all the intricacies of grinding and considered that this team would cope with this laborious, but in principle simple matter.

The following Friday, I went and picked up two "specialists" from the previous facility and brought them to my dacha. The guys were from Ukraine, I organized their whole life, we walked around the house and examined all the walls. Andrei, who was their eldest, said that to grind the logs adjacent to the floor and ceiling, I would need larger diameter discs (150 mm), which I should have bought.

Half a Saturday I ran around the shops in search of these discs - all to no avail, with Velcro - please, but there were simply no such clamps. Desperate, I again called my "magic wand" Denis Migachev. He immediately said - you need to go to the Castorama store, and indeed, there I took all the available disks of the size I needed “at zero”, by the way, the price tag “bited”, each disk cost 50-70 rubles. Denis also scolded me that I did not wait for his guys, because here he unequivocally guaranteed the quality. I had to apologize and refer to the unacceptable, as it seemed to me then, delay in time.

Arriving home, I called my grinders, “reported” that their request had been fulfilled - the disks had been bought. And this Andrei answered me and said that, in fact, they had already moved out of the dacha, they were not interested in work and the conditions did not suit them. I was just taken aback by what I heard and slowly sat down on a chair. Wait, I say, I am inclined to dialogue, if there are problems - voice it, if this is really the case, I am ready to raise the price of the work. He answered me that the house is old (although the log house is only 3 years old), it is very difficult to skin, you have to first go through a coarse-grained skin, and then again - 80-coy. I hung up and began to come to my senses. In my 45 years, no one has ever done this to me. Well, find the courage in yourself and tell the customer that you are not interested, but say it to his face, and like this, leaving someone else's trusted house, to run away like a rat from a sinking ship - it was incomprehensible to me. When I came to my senses, I called this Andrey again and already calmly “put him in his place”, explaining that “adult boys” don’t do this, and that if I find even the slightest problem in my country house, then I will find him with a friend at throughout the Leningrad region. In fact, I was not disingenuous, if this became a matter of principle, then thanks to the connections of the wife, we could “ruin the life” of these guys, we just usually don’t want to waste time and get our hands dirty on such people. My principle is to draw conclusions, forget and move on. So we did. The next day we arrived at the dacha, found the keys to the gate and the house in the place indicated by the unfortunate builders, checked that everything was in order and in place. They began to think what to do next - time goes by.

Second attempt - with a guaranteed result

As you understand, my next call was again to Denis, I told him the story that had happened and asked him to reserve his builders for me, we had nowhere to go, so we were ready to wait. Denis promised to speed up the process, and indeed, after three days they removed a specialist named Adrian from the facility, called his cousin Ivan, a novice specialist, to help him, but Adrian promised to organize the learning process “in the course of the play” and guaranteed that everything would be on the the highest level. It was supposed that in a week or two a couple more guys would drive up, but later we refused this, because the pace of the builders' work, and most importantly the quality, satisfied me.

The main task that I set for the grinders was to quickly sand and paint the house, first of all, those rooms where there would be a fireplace and a chimney (on the second floor). In the second turn, I decided to polish the inside and the bathhouse in order to “close the topic”. Looking ahead, I note that later we decided to polish the bathhouse outside as well, “to walk, so walk”, although, of course, additional justifications appeared for this step.

Work has begun. The guys started from the second floor, so that the dust would not settle on the work already done. I will say right away - the dust, of course, was “unmeasured”. To clean the walls from dust, it is convenient to use ordinary brooms and a vacuum cleaner. Without a vacuum cleaner, of course, it is difficult, especially later - when you need to clean the corners and joints of logs before painting. I still had a “technical” vacuum cleaner, which we bought when renovating an apartment, here it served again.

Grinding is mountains of garbage... ... or fertilizer, depending on how you look :)

Based on the results of the work of the first “Uh brigade”, I realized that it is necessary to protect the mechanisms plastic windows and roof membrane. Therefore, I bought several packs of film (it is thin, but there is thicker - the second is better) - it is usually used to cover furniture and floors during repairs. I asked the guys to first of all close all the window openings with foil and staple the entire roof on the second floor (now from roofing cake we only have shingles and a waterproof membrane in the house), we planned to do the rest of the internal roofing after installing the fireplace, sanding and painting the walls.

And so the work began to boil. I will say right away that it was a long process, in total the guys worked for me for almost a month and a half. But during this time, the house was polished from the inside, the bathhouse was polished on both sides, all this was painted three times with varnish, and inside the premises - after the first layer of varnish, the pile that appeared was also manually cleaned with sandpaper.

Watching their work, I studied the technology of grinding for the sake of interest. Let's focus on the most important points this process. Grinding walls from a gun carriage can be divided into three components: processing the upper and lower edges of the log, as well as processing the flat part of the log. For round logs, everything is somewhat more complicated, where you have to smoothly go around all the roundness of the wood. The described steps are illustrated in the following three photos.

Particular problems were delivered by sections of the walls under the ceiling and near the floor. Therefore, once again I remind you of my recommendation: the log house should be sanded BEFORE installing windows, installing ceilings and floors. The main thing is that the log house was under the roof. Here, the presence of a lag is welcome, it is convenient to temporarily throw boards on them - this is what happened to me in the bath.

By the way, let's talk about one more recommendation that came to light in the course of work. Of course, it is better to grind a new frame than an already settled one. In addition to the mentioned windows and floors, the process of solidification of wood also comes into play here. Accordingly, the consumption of skins on such a log house will be slightly higher. True, belated grinding also showed advantages, we will talk about this in more detail in a future section on warming the log house after shrinkage.

Let's get back to the difficult areas. The floors were a little easier. We are planning to organize warm floors on both floors, heated by a heat pump, so the floor level will still be raised by 5-8 cm. This allowed us not to “fight” for the lower edges of the walls. But with the walls near the ceiling of the first floor, I really had to suffer. While we plan to do on the first floor stretch ceiling(they hide the unevenness of the wall logs well), they will only be 2-3 cm from the existing rough OSB ceiling, so grinding the upper parts of the walls was fundamental. Several times my workers shrugged and said that they would not be able to sand this or that section of the wall. We understood that, of course, this can be done with a chisel, but this is absolutely hard labor.

I am an optimist and an engineer in my life, so every time I reassured Adrian and every time we found a solution. These solutions were born "in pain", therefore, given that they may be useful to you, we will give them briefly.

Grinding hard-to-reach places under the ceiling, in some places I had to modify the tool, be smart or just work with a chisel

"Know-how" that appeared as a result of brainstorming:

the guys cut off the rubber attachment holding the sanding disc and the grinding disc itself. Thus, from a disk with a diameter of 125 mm, we obtained a disk with a diameter of 70-80 mm, which made it possible to work in many hard-to-reach places;
somewhere I closed my eyes to the “waves” on the surface of the crowns, because I understood that this zone could be polished only with short vertical movements;
without hesitation, I allowed the guys to “scratch” the draft ceiling, because it didn’t work out otherwise;
where it was completely tight, I had to work only with a chisel, but there were only two such places left, and then small ones.

By the way, my experiments with the grinder came in handy. In one of these cases, the emotional Adrian said in his hearts that he couldn’t get in there. And I look and think, why do you need to make movements from top to bottom, and if you turn the grinder over and start working from the bottom up. Adrian in response tells me, yes, it’s impossible, the grinder will simply fly out of my hands. Let's try, I said. Do not believe me, in front of the "amazed public" I managed to carefully clean up the previously inaccessible area. Damn, "skill does not drink away," even I thought.

Of course, one cannot fail to mention one more rather laborious stage of work - cleaning the surface of the logs in the corners of the cuts with chisels. The photo below shows this operation close-up from various angles. In the photo - Adrian himself. His brother, Ivan, out of natural modesty, tried to avoid the lens, but I did not insist.

Time-consuming work of manually cleaning the corners of cuts where the grinding disc does not reach.

The same work in the corners of the cuts, but close-up.

On the right side of the photo above, it is clearly seen that the crowns were not completely polished - the guys then processed the veneers for window and door openings separately. This was due to the fact that most of the windows were covered with foil at that time.

The next photo shows a close-up of a wall of round log. Disk marks are clearly visible. This is what the wall looked like after going through a coarse sandpaper with a grain of 40.

Polished wall - close-up. Disk marks are visible. This wall was sanded twice, first with 40 and then with 80. The photo shows the result of rough grinding.

As a result of the work done on polishing the house, the living room simply “played”. To be honest, my wife and I do not regret the money spent on grinding, because it essentially replaces the traditionally expensive final wall decoration. Once one of our friends, having visited our house, asked, what will you sheathe the walls from the inside with? My wife and I looked at him like “Lenin at the bourgeoisie” and said, what are you, for the sake of these wooden walls, everything, in fact, was started!

As a result of grinding, the house began to look like new.

At the end of this article, albeit a little looking ahead, we will show how the same room began to look, but with painted walls and with a fireplace installed. On the fireplace is still missing the top decorative lattice, so the duct pipes are visible.

Photo of the living room after painting the walls with water-based varnish and installing a fireplace with soapstone cladding.

Do not be surprised that the fireplace podium is raised above the floor - this is intended, since insulation will be laid on the subfloor of DSP boards, and then in the underfloor heating pipe screed. According to our plans, the level tiles just should reach the level of the podium of the fireplace.

To take a closer look at the walls, here is a photo of the chimney against the background of the wall attic floor. In general, we were satisfied with the quality of grinding and painting.

Photo of the wall of the second floor, on the left - the chimney of the fireplace (finishing with artificial stone)

Sanding a log house increases the life of the house and keeps it attractive for a long time. appearance buildings. Some believe that rounded and chopped logs do not need such processing, since they already look aesthetically pleasing. However, experts in the construction of a wooden house and baths recommend sanding the walls, because this gives additional protection to the wood.

Since a large amount of dust flies during operation, it is necessary to have the means personal protection. You will need anti-dust non-fogging goggles, a respirator. Headphones and anti-vibration gloves will not interfere: it will be more comfortable with them.

How to grind logs

Two types of tools can be used for grinding logs and timber: eccentric grinders or grinders with appropriate nozzles.

To give the building an aesthetic appearance, the log house is polished

Sanding a planed log from the outside

It has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. And the choice of a tool for grinding a log house is no exception. Someone works exclusively with grinders, and someone only with grinders. It is more convenient and faster for someone to work with petal discs, while someone does not accept them at all, but works with wire nozzles. You choose. We only tell you how to do it.
Bulgarian choice
For grinding a log house from a planed log (from under a planer), angle grinders are used, which are usually called grinders. Choose not the most expensive, but not the cheapest models. Cheap ones usually break down very quickly: they belong to the household class and have a small working resource. Grinding a log house is necessary both inside and outside, the area is considerable, so the resource of a household tool is barely enough for one or two walls. Therefore, when choosing, it is advisable for you to find either an inexpensive professional or semi-professional model. They are usually in the middle price range.

When grinding a log house, most people work with grinders with different nozzles.

The power of the grinder is approximately 700-1000 watts. If you wish, you can take a more powerful one, but this one is more than enough for woodworking. More powerful ones are harder to work with: they themselves weigh a lot, and it will be more difficult to manage them. And every awkward movement is a hole in the log, which then will have to be leveled.

125 mm discs are the most convenient in work, and choose a model for them. But these are only recommendations. You can work both big and small. Who is used to it.

RPM per Idling- 10,000-12,000 rpm. Moreover, it is very desirable that the tool has speed control, and better - smooth.

What to look for when choosing a grinder

Pay attention to where the air intake comes from. In order for the grinder to clog less during operation and work longer, the fence should be at the back (not from the sides). And also, it is important that the handles are comfortable, and the machine itself is not heavy. Therefore, try on each, hold it in your hands. Pay attention to the length of the cord - the longer, the more freedom of action it gives.

For convenience, it is better to have two machines. The fact is that the processing takes place at least twice: first, a layer is removed with an abrasive with a large grain, then it is polished with a fine one. In order not to constantly change nozzles and not overheat the tool, it is more convenient to have two machines. One is still not enough for the whole volume. And so the work goes faster, and the tool works in normal mode - it does not overheat.

Nozzles on the grinder is better to take not rubber, but plastic

There is one more subtlety: for work it is better to use not a rubber, but a plastic nozzle (on which the abrasive is attached). Plastic, though thinner, but lasts longer. If you accidentally touch the surface of the wood with the rubber nozzle, a black mark will be left on the wood. This will not happen with plastic.
Grinding discs
For the initial rough grinding, petal grinding discs with a grain of 40-60 are placed. You can use just an abrasive with the same grain. It's convenient for anyone. The consumption of disks is large: one for 3-5 meters of a log. It can be more or less: it depends on which layer you need to remove and how even the log was before processing. If it was rounded - the consumption is less, if from under the planer - more. But it’s better not to save on these disks, as soon as it gets dirty - change it: the work will go faster, and the grinder will work with less load.

Grinding discs come with different grains

The consumption of fine sanding discs depends on how carefully you sanded the surface the first time. It is better to take this small abrasive with Velcro - it changes faster. Here the grain size is 100-120.

In addition to discs, you will need to buy pillows for nozzles. On the one hand, they are covered with a sticky compound, to which abrasive discs are then attached. These pillows are washed on the sides, and the adhesive side also stops working. So this consumable will also come in handy.

Grinding rounded logs

Since the surface in such a log house is already flat, using a grinder with a lack of experience will only lead to the appearance of furrows and pits - traces of too much pressure. Then they will have to be compared for a long time with smaller grains. Therefore, eccentric grinders are more often used to process rounded logs. They are less productive, but if pressed too hard, the grinding disc is blocked. This allows even in the absence of experience to make the surface even and smooth.

For grinding rounded logs, grinders are used

The power of these machines is more modest - 200-300 W, the number of revolutions is about the same 10,000 - 12,000 rpm. Many models have a dust collector. When working indoors, this is a big plus, but this plus is also reflected in the price. The principle of selection is the same: good quality, a semi-professional or professional model that fits comfortably in your hand. For sanding a log house, it is also desirable to have two machines: on one, put discs with a grain of 30-60 to remove the darkened layer, on the second, install a fine grain of 100-120 to smooth the surface and remove the raised pile of wood.

Grinding a log house in grooves and corners

Regardless of which log the log house is made of, the grooves are polished with grinders. Moreover, the nozzle is taken smaller than the disk used (for example, for a nozzle diameter of 115 mm, the abrasive is set at 125). If the disc and nozzle are the same size, the tool may jam in the groove during operation. At the same time, the grinder will be pulled out of the hands, which can lead to injury.

Finish logs in the corners with chisels

If the disk is larger in size, then you can work safely. Although it wears out at the edges quickly, you can work this way without fear of injury.

The corners of a log house from logs remain the most problematic for processing. The only one reliable method their processing - chisels. With this tool, the top thin layer of wood is removed. You can do this before stripping the entire log or after. Not so important.

Log end processing

The ends of the logs are polished with a grinder with an abrasive wheel of grain 40. By adjusting the speed, you select the speed at which the tool is easy to control. It is unrealistic to achieve perfect smoothness here, and it is not necessary, therefore, cleaning with fine grains is not done. With further processing with primers, varnishes or other compounds, the ends are given increased attention - they absorb better, therefore it is necessary to lubricate more abundantly.

Processing a log house inside the house

All actions are identical. When sanding a log cabin from a planed log, if the wall inside is not sheathed with anything, another pass will be added for fine finish: an eccentric sander with a 120 abrasive disc. This will achieve a perfectly flat surface.

Inside the log cabin is polished to furniture smoothness.

How to sand timber walls

The tools used are the same as in the processing of logs. A specific choice can only be made by evaluating how deep you need to remove the top layer of wood.

If the bath is built of profiled timber or glued, most likely you do not need to level anything. Just remove the top darkened layer, if any. In this case, with a sufficient level of knowledge of the grinder, you can work with it. If experience is not enough, work with an eccentric sander. It is longer, but the result will be guaranteed, at least good.

The beam needs to be polished in different ways. Depending on its geometry

If the walls are made of ordinary timber, then you will have to level a lot. Here you can not do without a grinder. Moreover, in some places it will be necessary to remove a couple of millimeters of excess - imperfect geometry and errors in cutting bowls lead to the fact that the difference can be quite significant.

There was a video fragment about a very interesting victorious grinding disc, which, it seems, alone can easily cope with rough grinding and easily remove excess thickness.

When is the best time to grind?

There are many possible answers to this question. Traditionally, a log house is sanded after at least the main shrinkage has passed. During this time, the log dries up, and it is easier to work with it. It is extremely difficult to remove even a thin layer from raw wood. If you need to level, then it will take a lot of time, money for disks and effort.

On the other hand, if you have a log house made of dried timber and logs, then you can grind and process it right away. In this case, putting a log house under the roof, it is polished, immediately treated with impregnations and left to shrink in this form. This is done infrequently, although no one forbids it. Usually they act according to the usual scheme.

The log house is polished after it has settled

Order and organization of work

Since a minimum of time should pass between the grinding of logs or timber and processing, it is necessary to process along the crown. You can start from above or below - there is no difference, but they grind one wall completely, then move on to another. It is possible to cover with impregnations and primers immediately after the completion of the processing of one wall, having previously removed the dust.

Often there are questions about what to do if the wood has blue or other dark spots. These are traces of fungal activity. They do not affect the quality and safety in any way, but they spoil the appearance fairly.

The blue of the wood spoils the look

If used for finishing if you want light transparent paints, you will have to fight with color. For this there is special formulations for bleaching wood. In this case, the procedure is as follows:

bleach wood;
carry out rough grinding;
if traces of blackness remain, bleach again;
final grinding.

Then comes the treatment with flame retardants, primers and finishing compounds.

This video presents the experience of a person who himself polished a log house from a log. He talks about some interesting details, so take 20 minutes.

Non-contact grinding method (logs / timber / timber imitation / block house / log house)

RIKEDOM is a member of the Association PROF for WOOD

for Professional PROTECTION and finishing of WOODEN STRUCTURES

We have developed and implemented the Abrasive-jet method of wood grinding - as a basis for further painting the log house. The professional paint materials we use are made in Germany, but we live and paint in Russia.

THEREFORE: Our wood protection technology is exclusive and developed specifically for Russian conditions.

You will get rid of the problem of constant regrinding and repainting of the log house. Elementary, quick, TIMELY care is the key to maintaining the excellent condition of the log house coating in the future.

Understanding this will definitely lead you to our company!

Popular grinding technologies

Grinding a log house from rounded logs with angle grinders grinding machines has a number of disadvantages: the work takes much longer, a large number of consumable grinding tools are required, it is problematic to grind a log / beam in the corners, chamfers of glued beams, hard-to-reach places - all this requires manual sanding. However, this can be done independently if you have the necessary tools and time. Also a significant disadvantage is the appearance of traces of grinding wheels on the surface of the walls (radial scratches, recesses), which are especially noticeable after painting.
Grinding the log house by sandblasting or abrasive blasting. In this case, the procedure is very much faster, it is especially easy to grind hard-to-reach places of the ends and corners of the log house. Only the grinding of the ends is done manually, but this is no longer so labor-intensive. When sandblasted, the surface is obtained with light brushing, highlighting the fabulous wood pattern, which gives the log house a unique flavor. If desired, you can perform a deep brushing - to create a zest for the interior.

Our company is the founder of sandblasting wooden frame in the quality in which we produce it. After abrasive blasting the log/beam and with the right painting technology, the walls acquire a luxury finish. If you are interested in how much it costs to polish the walls of a log house using the abrasive blast method, call or send a return application form and a specialist will contact you.

Abrasive-jet grinding of a log house RIKEDOM - differences from the traditional method

Grinding of any kind of wood: log, timber, lining, imitation, KELO pine.
Unlike sandblasting, our sanding is very DELICATE and does not tear the wood. It can even be produced on log cabins with a warm seam!
FAST! High deadlines - we grind up to 100m2 of wall per day.
Mini-brushed wood effect - highlights the unique wood patterns. It looks very, very nice!

Unlike "grinders", after our grinding method there are no scratches and scratches. Grinding a log house using the abrasive-jet method does not face the problem of hard-to-reach places, such as oblique bay windows, corners, chamfers of timber, etc.
THE MOST IMPORTANT - if the grinding wheels of grinders or brushes polish the tree, then our grinding, on the contrary, opens the pores of the tree, which significantly increases the absorption of paint materials. This directly affects the durability of the coating! Link to video where you can clearly see the difference.

NEW HOUSE "INTERIOR"

GRINDING

Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PAINTING
Priming according to the ICS system
Interlayer grinding
Interlayer grinding
The third layer - if necessary - according to the ICS system
Consumables (except paint and varnish materials)

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Scaffolding/scaffolding

RESTORATION "INTERIOR"

GRINDING

Abrasive blast grinding proprietary
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PAINTING
Priming according to the ICS system
Interlayer grinding
The first layer of impregnation according to the ICS system
Interlayer grinding
The second layer of impregnation according to the ICS system
The third layer of painting - if necessary - according to the ICS system
Consumables (except paint and varnish materials)

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Scaffolding/scaffolding
Delivery of paint and varnish materials
Discount on paint and varnish material - 20%
Carrying out "painting" on the object
Dismantling / installation of platbands, radiators
Shelter of the floor / ceiling / electrical elements, etc.

NEW HOUSE "FACADE"

Departure for measurements of the geometry and humidity of the log house

GRINDING
Abrasive blast grinding proprietary
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PROTECTION (PAINT)
Priming according to the ICS system
Interlayer grinding
The second layer of impregnation according to the ICS system

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Scaffolding

Discount on paint and varnish material - 20%

RESTORATION "FACADE"

Departure for measurements of the log geometry

GRINDING
Analysis of the general condition and development of a finishing strategy
Preliminary preparation and restoration work (depending on the condition of the tree)
Abrasive blast grinding proprietary
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PAINTING
Priming according to the ICS system
The first layer of impregnation (with deep feeding) according to the ICS system
Interlayer grinding
The second layer of impregnation according to the ICS system
Finishing hydrophobic / moisture-regulating layer
Consumables (except paint and varnish material)

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Complete perimeter closure
Scaffolding/scaffolding
Closing window/door blocks
Delivery of paint and varnish materials
Discount on paint and varnish material - 20%
Carrying out "painting" on the object
Dismantling of protruding interventional material (except for caulking)
Issuance of a corporate PASSPORT

NEW HOUSE "FACADE"

Departure for measurements of the geometry and humidity of the log house

GRINDING
Abrasive blast grinding proprietary
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PROTECTION (PAINT)
Priming according to the ICS system
The first layer of impregnation (with deep feeding) according to the ICS system
Interlayer grinding
The second layer of impregnation according to the ICS system
Finishing hydrophobic / moisture-regulating layer
Expendable materials, including lacquer material

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Scaffolding
Carrying out painting on the object
Delivery of paint materials

Issuance of a company PASSPORT for warranty coverage

Removal of the old coating +377r/m2

RESTORATION "FACADE"

Departure for measurements of the log geometry

GRINDING
Analysis of the general condition and development of a finishing strategy
(multiple passes)
Abrasive blast grinding proprietary
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Complete perimeter closure
Scaffolding/scaffolding
Closing window/door blocks
Delivery of paint and varnish materials
Discount on paint and varnish material - 20%
Carrying out "painting" on the object
Dismantling / installation of platbands, downpipes, ebbs
Dismantling of protruding interventional material (except for caulking)
Issuance of a company PASSPORT for warranty coverage

GOLD

Departure for measurements of the log geometry

GRINDING
Analysis of the general condition and development of a finishing strategy
Preliminary preparation and restoration work (depending on the condition of the tree)
Preliminary removal of the old coating by hand (multiple passes)
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Complete perimeter closure
Scaffolding/scaffolding
Closing window/door blocks
Delivery of paint and varnish materials
Carrying out "painting" on the object, color matching
Dismantling / installation of platbands, downpipes, ebbs

Delivery and removal of change houses

extradition corporate PASSPORT for coverage warranty

PLATINUM

Departure for measurements of the log geometry

GRINDING
Analysis of the general condition and development of a finishing strategy
Preliminary preparation and restoration work (depending on the condition of the tree)
Preliminary removal of the old coating by hand (multiple passes)
Alignment of a log / beam, correction of "jambs"
Restoration work– sealing holes, recesses, additional layout of missing parts of wood
Abrasive blasting proprietary
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

SEALING
The device of a "warm seam", including "enveloping" elements at the ends
Sealing cracks with REMMERS sealant
Sealant REMMERS - Acryl 100

ADDITIONALLY INCLUDED:
Complete perimeter closure
Scaffolding/scaffolding
Closing window/door blocks
Delivery of paint and varnish materials and sealant
Carrying out "painting" on the object / color selection
Dismantling / installation of platbands, downpipes, ebbs
Dismantling / installation of the frontal board
Dismantling of protruding interventional material, trimming caulking
Delivery and removal of change houses

extradition corporate PASSPORT for coverage warranty

Carefully cover objects

Video reviews of our work

Scheme of work with you:

Appointment for a consultation in our office by phone

2 hours

Consultation at the RIKEDOM office

Departure of the foreman to the facility to determine the exact measurements

Signing of the main contract. Departure of the brigade for a trial square meter of grinding

Payment. Carrying out work at the facility

Delivery of works. Issuance of a PASSPORT for maintenance

Answers to your most common questions:

Coming to our office, you get a detailed consultation on how we work and make a decision whether you need it or not. And also we decide on the possibility of performing work at your facility. It is in the office, when communicating with managers, that a preliminary decision is made on the implementation of certain works. You can also find out the estimated price. For measurements of geometry and humidity, our foreman visits you only after consultation in the office. Why don't we just send a measurer? Because it's not serious, and we are a serious company. Just taking measurements so that you get a price is meaningless until you understand the principle of our work. Not a single "measurer" has the vast practical experience that the head of the company has. For your convenience, packages have been developed, where the price is determined per square meter of a log house. You yourself can "roughly estimate" how much approximately square meters make up the walls of your home.

In other firms - a different technology of work, and therefore a different price. Our technology - from sanding to finishing painting - is aimed precisely at protecting the tree, that is, at the durability of the applied coating. And this means that in the future you will not have to again spend money on regrinding and painting again. This is the fundamental difference - not to pay again and again in the future, as 90% of the owners of wooden houses with ordinary painting do. And, of course, the work of RIKEDOM always stands out against the backdrop of hundreds of painted houses.

For each house painted by us - a warranty service PASSPORT is issued. That is, you need to understand that everything will be fine with the coating if you provide it with timely care.
During the production process, a special Journal is filled out, which indicates which tools and materials were used, a sketch of the structure, indicating problem areas and other technical characteristics.

The VIP package was created for clients who want only the best and are accustomed to maximum comfort. In addition to everything that is included in the FIRM PACKAGE, the VIP PACKAGE has additional privileges:
*4-layer painting. That is, in addition to priming and two required layers impregnation on the facade or oil / azure inside, another layer of composition is added, with another careful interlayer grinding. This procedure is invaluable for the facade, for its more protection and durability! For interiors - the quality of the tactile sensations of a magnificent wood finish is significantly increased!
*Restoration: chips, protruding wood chips, nail holes, etc. - we will restore everything, impeccability will please the eye.
* Creating a closed perimeter: put around scaffolding, we close it with canopies - the dust from grinding will not scatter, the neighbors (if the houses are closely located), the landscape and so on will not “suffer”. And what is important - the "closed perimeter" helps to improve the quality of work, because when painting and installing a warm seam, precipitation and direct sunlight are unacceptable. And in the autumn-winter period, this shelter at home allows you to heat the space inside the canopies and thereby comply with the technology.
* We remove and put back trim, ebbs, drainage system and other things that are needed to carry out the work.
*Individual color selection, free shipping test paints, as well as the paint itself and sealant.
*The most pleasant: PERSONAL control over the object from the company's management, as well as the solution of all issues on the object with the company's leaders.

Because we do not look at the cans where the paint consumption is written. Our task is to power the tree, and not just paint it. But the absorbency of a tree depends both on the type of product, breed, and also on where the forest comes from. On different objects - different absorbency. On different logs - also different absorbency. We do not drip a couple of drops and stretch them out over ten squares in order to save you paint. We will power it until the most important thing is provided - the protection of the tree.
Therefore, the paint leaves on the objects - in different ways. That is - the paint goes after the fact. So does the sealant. The thickness of the warm joint depends solely on the diameter and fit of your log, as well as the size of the discrepancies in the interventional space. Therefore, the seam is selected based on these parameters. Make it too narrow - just simply tear the seam, make it too wide - not beautiful and useless. The size of the seam is determined only by the master, and the consumption of the sealant directly depends on this.
At our consultation, you will receive only INDICATIVE calculations for paint and sealant, based on our experience.

People with extensive experience in working with wood, with golden hands and developed sense responsibility. The backbone of craftsmen and foremen has not changed, we have been with them for more than 12 years. Of course, there are also beginners who are trained by the masters, so the staff is expanding. Judging by the amount of positive feedback from customers that we receive, we can proudly say that we have the best professional staff!

Why do you need to grind a log house

Many people think that sanding a log house is needed solely to clean the tree from dust, dirt and give it a bright, healthy look. In fact, the main function of sanding a log house is to OPEN THE PORES OF THE WOOD for further deep nourishment of the protective material.

Therefore, the further absorbency of the material directly depends on how the log house was polished. For example, grain 100-120-150 is often used for grinding the outside of a wooden house. This is a gross mistake, since such an almost “polishing” of a tree leads to the closure of the pores of the tree and the paintwork material is simply not able to be absorbed, and therefore, to give protection to your log house.

Abrasive-jet grinding of a log house is not measured in “grain” and is designed to open the pores of the tree as much as possible. Grinding a log house with this method occurs “in one pass” and very carefully removes only “unnecessary” wood fibers, leaving them alive and healthy. Because of this, the price of polishing a wooden house with this method is often lower than the traditional one.

How much does abrasive blasting cost?

Included in the price of our polishing consumable - quartz sand. The grinding equipment works autonomously, on its own diesel fuel, which is also included in the price. Judge for yourself how much electricity used daily by grinders for even a month will cost you? .. Metal collapsible scaffolding, auxiliary tours, transportation costs for the delivery of all equipment - all this also “sits” in our price per square meter.

Grinding a log house is fast, due to the fact that it is carried out in just “one pass” and time is not lost in hard-to-reach places, as with grinders. All complex areas of contact - corners, chamfers, joints - are treated with sand as easily as any other wood surface.

Differences from sandblasting

Sandblasting differs sharply in quality from abrasive blasting, as sandblasting equipment is simply not designed for such delicate material as wood. In processing wood in this way, it is very important to preserve the solid fibers of wood, which are a kind of reinforcement for everything. wooden element. Sandblasting often just tears through these hard fibers. The race for the speed of sandblasting performers leads to the fact that the log house after such grinding simply does not lend itself further painting, without prior "smoothing": pass with nylon brushes or fine grits. What do we get as a result? That's right - again closing the pores of the tree ... Meaning?

When to start sanding the log house?

When the log house has reached a moisture content of 25% or less, or was initially dry. It is not worth starting sanding without planning painting, because after sanding, the protection and painting of wood must be completed as soon as possible, otherwise the resin will come to the surface of the wood (the tree protects itself) and the meaning of sanding will disappear.

Sanding timber and logs is a dusty process, so you need to plan it before installing subfloors inside, communications and other things. Interior decoration, as a rule, is divided into two stages:

Sanding + priming + 1 coat: this is the first step.

After completing the subfloors, laying out communications and other things: interlayer grinding and applying the final coat of paint.

To preserve the attractive appearance of the log house for a long time, its external processing is carried out, which includes grinding and coating with antiseptic compounds that prevent decay and increase fire resistance. wooden structure. If the logs are left without polishing, then the remains of the bark will darken over time and lead to the appearance of rot and a deterioration in appearance. How to grind a log house? What are the basic rules for its processing? Which antiseptic to choose? We will answer these questions in this article.

The appearance of the log house depends on the external processing by grinding and coating with antiseptic compounds.

How to choose the right tool?

At first glance, it seems that the process is simple and doing everything with your own hands will not be difficult. I'll have to reassure you. Study the information below and try to objectively assess your strengths. Do you have enough stock necessary tools, time, perseverance, and skills? Or maybe still the best option will entrust this work to professionals?

As you probably know that sanding a log house consists of several stages. Belt sanders do an excellent job. Today in stores they are presented in a fairly wide range, but not every one is equally well suited for this work.
In order for the process to go faster, the tool should not be too heavy and powerful enough. Well, if the model will have a dust bag.

A neat frame made of round logs will probably always remain the most attractive option for building a country house.

It harmoniously merges with any natural landscape and has almost all the qualities that are important for life in it.

Why does a wooden frame need to be sanded?

The tree belongs to building material which after some time changes some of its properties. The construction of a log house itself does not mean that it is ready to receive its tenants.

Firstly, the log house should settle for almost a year. During this time, the house will shrink, and some changes in its geometry may occur.

Secondly, during shrinkage, the surface of the logs will be exposed to biological and natural phenomena. Logs, when wet, will swell, and shrink when hot, microbes of fungi and mold, as well as traces of insect activity, may appear on them. The texture of the tree loses its beauty, the wood becomes dark in color, and irregularities appear on the surface of the log house, in places where there were knots.

After shrinkage is completed, the log house almost completely loses its former beauty and turns into a rather unsightly structure. Therefore, a complete grinding of the entire log house is carried out before it further finishing. After sanding, the wood absorbs better protective equipment, and the surface vividly expresses its decorative properties.

Grinding returns to the logs their original beauty, smoothness and unique painting of their textured patterns, which are just the decoration of any chopped wood house. During grinding, the upper windward layer is removed from the logs and the damaged areas are cleaned, after which the wood absorbs antiseptic compounds better and lends itself perfectly to varnishing and painting, while paintwork materials decreases many times. It is also much easier to insulate with sealants, which fill the intervention joints more efficiently and quickly.

Preparing for sanding

As soon as the shrinkage of the log house is over, window and door openings are cut in the walls, if they have not already been cut through during the assembly of the house. Sanding should be started only after the walls of the log house have been given their final shape.

Before starting work on polishing a log house, you need to inspect the surfaces that need to be processed, and first of all, assess the condition of the logs themselves for moisture. By evaluating these data, we can determine necessary set certain tools and all consumables.

In the case when the logs are not yet dry enough, polishing should be postponed until a more suitable moment, when they are dry enough, or special equipment should be used to speed up the drying.

The grinding procedure itself is quite laborious and expensive work, so you can compromise and process only the inside of the log house. BUT outside treat only with antibacterial agents.

But since unpolished wood is less susceptible to various protective impregnations, the processing of the outer side of the log house will need to be done quite often, naturally, the consumption of materials for wood processing will be much higher. This will eventually further increase the cost of purchasing antibacterial and other protective agents.

Therefore, if earlier it was decided to grind only with inside, after some time, it is still recommended to grind the outer side of the log house.

This is a rather time-consuming and lengthy process that requires certain skills and experience. The main tool for work is a manual grinder.

The main surface of the log house is polished with a special emery wheel designed for working with wood. The main problem mechanical grinding are just emery wheels, which are quite a short time completely clogged with small particles of wood. If the wheel is not replaced in a timely manner, the quality of the grinding will be quite low.

During grinding work, dust and fine sawdust are generated in large quantities. Therefore, when working, you need to use individual protective equipment, which consists of a respirator and special glasses. When cleaning up waste generated during grinding work, it is recommended to use industrial vacuum cleaner, in extreme cases, use a household tool.

After completion of all grinding work, it is necessary to immediately treat the wood with protective antiseptic compounds. In order for the wood to retain its fresh appearance better, protective treatment is recommended to be done immediately after sanding. Provided that the wood will not be in contact with moisture, you can make a slight delay in protective treatment cleaned logs.

When starting to grind a log house, it should be remembered that when removing a thick layer of wood, its natural defense mechanism may suffer, and this will lead to the destruction of the log itself. But usually the thickness of the removed layer practically does not exceed even 1 mm.