Variants of stops for swing gates and their manufacture by one's own hands. How to strengthen the gate from corrugated board

The gate is the face of the garage. The quality of their insulation determines the microclimate in the room. How well they function depends on whether you can open the garage at any time and drive the car out of there.

Insulate garage doors and Maintenance most car owners can on their own. Appropriate tools and materials are available in every private household.

Garage door insulation

For many car owners, a garage is more than just a place to park a car. Here you can equip a small workshop, make a warehouse of useful things, and finally spend time in the company of friends.

The garage needs to be maintained optimum temperature both winter and summer. According to building codes, in a heated room, this figure is +5 degrees. This will allow you not to warm up the car before starting and avoid the accumulation of moisture in hidden cavities.

Is it necessary to insulate garage doors (with an automatic mechanism, swing, lifting, sectional, rotary, etc.)?

To determine whether it is necessary to insulate the garage door, just look at the thermal image. It shows that most of the heat leaves the room through non-insulated gates.

This factor is especially important for owners of built-in garages. Often, the heating of such a room is included in the general house system. And heat loss through non-insulated gates will affect the entire house as a whole. Heating costs will increase.

Consider the types of gate structures and evaluate the need and possibility of their insulation.

1. Roller shutters, consisting of separate aluminum lamellas. Some models have polyurethane foam inside. The canvas itself is wound on a shaft located above the doorway. Due to the design features, insulation is not possible.
2. Sectional doors. It is based on sandwich panels filled with foamed polyurethane. Additional insulation is not required, however, you can stick the foam on the inside of the sections.
3. Swing gates. The most common design, consisting of two flaps hung on welded hinges. In the very simple version consist of a metal sheet welded to a steel frame. It is advisable to insulate such a structure even at the construction stage, however, this can be done independently, after installing the gate.
4. The lift-and-turn design consists of one sash. You can make it yourself or purchase products from well-known manufacturer. A factory sheet is a panel of durable sheet steel and insulation, which is often polyurethane foam. A thickness of 45 millimeters is sufficient to prevent heat loss. Homemade gates must be carefully insulated.

Such gates do not require additional insulation.

The choice of material for insulation (polystyrene, penoizol, etc.)

When choosing a quality insulation, you need to keep in mind a few nuances. Yes, for warmth. garage doors not suitable mineral wool and other porous materials. Most often, the thickness of the walls of the garage is much less than that of a residential building. Often, corrugated board or a similar product acts as the main building material. When using porous insulation, a dew point forms in it. As water accumulates in the pores, its density and thermal conductivity increase. Ultimately, this minimizes the effectiveness of insulation.

Among the most suitable materials are:

1. Styrofoam. Inexpensive insulation obtained by dry heat treatment of polystyrene granules.
2. Styrofoam. It is also developed on the basis of polystyrene, however, using melting. There are several varieties: extruded, pressed, non-pressed. The main advantages are lightness, durability and ease of processing. The disadvantage is poor vapor permeability, as a result of which increased requirements are imposed on the insulated room in terms of ventilation.
3. Penoizol, which includes elements such as phosphoric acid, resins and carbide. Strong and durable material, resistant to burning. However, low-quality penoizol can release toxic formaldehyde when burned.
4. Polyurethane foam is a sprayed insulation with excellent heat saving performance. The material is actively used in various industries.

Inexpensive insulation for gates and walls

When insulating a garage door, it makes sense to choose between Styrofoam and Styrofoam. Materials have the following differences:

• Strength. Styrofoam is a hitch individual elements. Expanded polystyrene is a single substance. The bending strength of the latter is several times higher.
• Permeability. Standard foam has voids that liquid can seep into. The water absorption of expanded polystyrene is much greater.
• Price. Polyfoam is much cheaper.

If resistance to heavy loads is not critical for you and you want to insulate the door in the garage with a simple and inexpensive material, your choice is foam. In other cases - polystyrene foam.

Save on insulation is not worth it. Otherwise, the efficiency of the work performed will be zero. The thickness of the layer depends on the climate in which the garage is located. So, in the European part of the country the weather is moderate, not too cold, however, sometimes the temperature reaches minus 25 degrees. In such conditions, the following thickness of insulation is sufficient:

• Polyurethane foam: 70 mm
• Extruded polystyrene foam: 80mm
• Styrofoam: 100 mm

Tools and materials

Before installation, you should carefully measure the garage door and calculate the amount of materials that will be required for insulation and cladding.

There are many facing materials on sale:

For garage door cladding, 10 mm OSB-3 or OSB-4 boards are suitable, designed for rooms with high humidity. The standard product size is 1250*2500 mm. Two plates are enough for finishing.

The cladding is attached to the crate. In this capacity, small wooden bars 40 * 40 mm, fixed on the bearing part of the gate structure. Boards are installed around the perimeter and on the canvas area.

Insulation sizes may vary. They are selected based on the location of the crate: you should avoid a large number of trimmings and strive to ensure that whole sheets of expanded polystyrene are located between the individual bars.

In addition to materials, for high-quality insulation of the gate, you will need a set of household tools that most home craftsmen have:

1. Electric drill.
2. Electric screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers.
3. A set of drills for wood and metal.
4. Hacksaw. If necessary, you can notice with a jigsaw.
5. Brush for metal with stiff bristles. Required for surface cleaning.
6. Sandpaper
7. Measuring tools: tape measure, ruler, square.
8. Construction knife.
9. Fasteners - screws, wood screws.
10. Anticorrosive primer and solvent, antiseptic.

How to insulate with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The simplest way to insulate a gate is to lay a sheet of insulation directly between the frame posts, without any preparatory work. After that, a suitable finishing material is attached. However, the resulting design will be short-lived and will not retain enough heat in the room.

Professional insulation of garage doors takes place in several stages:

Training

First of all, you need to treat the bars with an antiseptic in one or two layers. Remember about personal means protection: wood impregnations contain harsh chemicals.

After processing, the bars should dry out. At this time, you need to prepare the gate for insulation. The surface of the canvases is carefully inspected, if rust is detected, it is cleaned to metal with a stiff brush or a drill attachment. If there is peeling paint, it must also be cleaned off. The resulting surface should not have rusty spots and pollution. After this, the canvases are sequentially treated with a solvent and a primer.

After drying, the surface of the garage door must be waterproofed. If standard foam is used as a heater, this operation is required; when using extruded polystyrene foam, it can be skipped.

Waterproofing can be done in various ways:

1. By gluing isolon - a two-millimeter foil film made of polyethylene foam.
2. By gluing a membrane with a vapor barrier function.
3. Processing with bituminous mastic.

Lathing installation

Beams are cut first required size. Places where ventilation holes and locks are located are bypassed around the perimeter and will not be insulated.

In places where the bar will be attached to the frame, you need to drill holes with a 4 mm drill. The optimal step is 20–25 centimeters. If you want the head of the screw to be flush with the canvas, you can make small indentations. For this, an eight-millimeter drill is used. It is important not to overdo it and remove only the amount of metal that is necessary to hide the head.

Before fastening, the bars are attracted to the frame with the help of clamps. To prevent the wood from cracking, you can additionally drill holes equal to the depth of the self-tapping screw. For this, a 2 mm drill is used.

All the bars located around the perimeter of the frame are installed in a similar way. Additional transverse crossbars are fastened with a self-tapping screw to the end in increments of 20–25 centimeters.

Insulation sheets will be laid in these cells.

Insulation installation

The space between the elements of the crate is filled with foam or expanded polystyrene. For this:

1. The size of each cell is measured.
2. In accordance with the dimensions obtained, the insulation is cut. To do this, you need a construction knife and a ruler. On each side, you need to leave a small margin - about 2-3 millimeters. This is necessary so that the elastic foam fits more tightly between the boards of the crate.
3. The insulation is fixed in the cells.

There are several ways to attach foam between the bars:

• With the help of facing materials. The foam itself in this case is not attached, but is pressed against the OSB boards.
• With the help of "liquid nails".
• By using polyurethane foam. The material has excellent adhesion. If you choose this method, the surface must be moistened before applying the foam: hardening occurs only in direct contact with the liquid.

After installing the insulation, the remaining joints are sealed with mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off with a knife.

In this case, the gate is insulated with foam

Gate lining

AT fine finish garage doors after insulation, OSB boards are often used. Products close the crate and insulation, make the doors more presentable.

The main condition is either the absence of joints, or their location on the bars. Therefore, before cutting the sheets, it is necessary to measure all surfaces.

For cutting, it can be used as an ordinary hacksaw for wood or an electric jigsaw, as well as a powerful a circular saw. Finished sheets are tried on at the place of future installation. If necessary, holes for locks, ventilation holes, etc. are cut into them. After that, the lining can be fixed.

The standard fastening step is 12-15 centimeters on the racks located along the perimeter, and about 20 centimeters on the transverse slats. To avoid cracking the wood, before tightening the screws, you can drill small holes with a nozzle with a small diameter.

OSB boards can be used as facing material

Repair work: how to fix problems

Quality garage doors can last for decades. However, with such a long operation, it is inevitable to carry out a number of works on their current maintenance and repair. Most operations can be performed independently.

How to lift garage doors that are sagging

The main reasons why it may be necessary to change the geometry of the gate structure are:

1. General metal fatigue. Usually occurs after prolonged use.
2. Loop drop.
3. Possible deformations associated with poor-quality installation.
4. Doorway recession.
5. Other factors - for example, in hot sunny weather, deformation of the structure under the influence of high temperature is possible.

There are other reasons why you need to raise the gate. The most common purchase new car, which is a little off in height.

Each problem requires an individual approach to correcting the geometry of the gate. Many methods are available for independent work using everyday tools.

Elimination of sagging loops. To lift the hinges on the gate leaf, a special spacer washer is used. The work is as follows:

• The sash returns to its place. Using this method, you can correct minor distortions of the gate leaves, raise the gate and make the movement of the structure more free. Important: the alloy from which the ball or washer is made must be harder than that used to create the loop.
• A washer of a given thickness is put on the axis of the lower loop. If it was not possible to find a suitable part, a metal ball of the required diameter is inserted into the loop hole.
• The canvas is taken off.

If you need to change the distance from the ground to the bottom of the sash, you can simply cut off part of the structure with a grinder and attach a rubber strip over it. This will help hide the gap. This method can be used if the lower beam is located beyond the edges of the skin. If the crossbar is located close to the ground, you need to do the following:

• carefully cut the horizontal crossbar with a grinder.
• cut the gate leaf to the required height.
• if necessary, attach a small rubber strip to the gate, equal in width to the distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground.
• weld the horizontal bar to the frame in a new place.

Sometimes the sashes warp due to deformation of the opening. In this case, you will either have to raise the opening itself, or correct the skew on the sash itself. To slightly raise part of the structure without touching the frame, you need to cut the horizontal beam near the place of deformation, cut it off with a grinder 5–7 millimeters, lift part of the sash, press the vertical beam and weld it. This method is used for small gaps. For reinforcement, a metal strip is attached to the welding site, since the risk of permanent deformation remains.

If other methods have not helped, an increase in the height of the gate opening itself will be required. In practice, such work is associated with certain difficulties. It is necessary to install temporary supports, to clarify whether reinforcement passes inside the masonry. If you do not take into account all the nuances, there is a possibility of the destruction of the wall or the collapse of the roof.

Raising the level of the gate opening is quite difficult. Requires additional equipment and the ability to lay bricks

Proper reinforcement and protection

For mounting, durable metal pins up to 20 centimeters long are used. After installation, they are cut and sanded to ensure smooth opening and closing of the wings. Gates are hung on the frame.

Additional reinforcement of the garage door makes sense if you are the owner of a solid concrete building. To strengthen the walls next to the structure, you can use a metal frame welded from corners and scalded with a mesh. It can be installed both at the stage of construction of the building, and subsequently, with inside premises.

Strong metal rods welded to the hinges make sawing much more difficult for an intruder. Additionally, nuts and bolts can be welded on the back of the canvases.

Placement of stiffeners on the example of swing gates with a separate door

To make the sashes more tightly pressed against each other, you can use an eccentric latch. A wide strip of metal is welded onto one of the canvases, thanks to which an attacker will not be able to use a crowbar or similar tool.

To strengthen the wings themselves, horizontal and vertical stiffnesses are welded to the frame. These are transverse metal racks located at some distance from the edges of the canvas. Their number depends on what degree of rigidity is needed. The length of the crossbar is determined based on the dimensions of the canvas as the distance between the opposite racks of the frame.

If there is a door in one of the wings, the vertical stiffeners are welded on both sides of it, otherwise the leaf may be deformed. If there is no door, horizontal or vertical crossbars are welded to the frame anywhere, most often in the center of the structure.

Replacement

Garage doors may need to be replaced for a variety of reasons. Perhaps the old structure is rusted or deformed. Or you have purchased a new gate, better quality or design.

The first stage is the dismantling of the old structure. Before this, it is necessary to clarify whether there are additional "inserts" from thieves, such as those welded to the frame above door hinges bolts, pieces of reinforcement or other similar elements. If they are, they need to be dismantled.

The easiest way is to dismantle metal swing gates. It is enough to open both doors and remove the canvases from the hinges. After that, if necessary, remove the hinges themselves (with a sledgehammer, grinder, etc.) and you can install new gates.

In case of deformation or corrosion, it is better to replace the hinges

To install the sheets in an existing frame, you only need to necessary measurements, weld the hinges and hang new gates on them.

If the gate is changed along with the frame, old frame needs to be dismantled. This job is best left professional builders, as damage to the masonry is possible. After dismantling, a new supporting frame is installed, leveled and fastened to the opening with long self-tapping screws. For conventional design 4-6 pieces per side are enough; when installing a reinforced frame, the number of dowels reaches 10.

If garage doors are installed without a frame, on poles, their replacement takes place in several stages:

1. Door opening to the stop.
2. Removing fabrics from hinges.
3. Dismantling the hinges (if necessary).
4. Cleaning of surfaces from rust, elimination of possible damage. Treatment with anti-corrosion compounds.
5. Welding new loops.
6. Hanging and adjusting sashes.

Adjustment in case of misalignment

Warped gates are a problem with older garages. At some point, the doors stop closing, cling to each other and to the ground. Among the main reasons for such malfunctions are the following:

1. Poor quality welding when installing the gate.
2. Soil subsidence, the presence of trees nearby, whose roots can swell the foundation.
3. material corrosion.

Due to the problems described above, the gate leaves sag and deform. The load on the hinges and the opening mechanism increases, as a result of which the gate stops opening.

To correct the problem and prevent the occurrence of such situations in the future, you must perform the following operations:

Additional stiffening ribs are equipped along the perimeter. These are transverse metal crossbars that reinforce the structure. Their installation is as follows:

1. Billets are cut from a profile pipe, fittings or other suitable building material. The size of each corresponds to the distance between the opposite racks of the frame. The stiffeners are horizontal and vertical, respectively, before making them, you need to measure the distance between the horizontal or vertical crossbars of the frame.
2. The blank is laid on the canvas and set according to the level and building corner. Its ends should adjoin the racks of the frame or lag behind them by a few millimeters.
3. The stiffeners are welded to the frame using a welding machine. They can be attached to the canvas using standard metal screws.

With prolonged and active use of garage doors, it is necessary to monitor the position of the hinges, if necessary, correct them, and in case of significant wear, change them.

Garage doors must open and close freely and let the car through

At self-mounting hinges to swing gates and subsequent adjustment, it is necessary to take into account several nuances:

1. The welding seam, which is formed when the loop is welded, must be directed exclusively upwards.
2. Welding takes place with small tacks, twice on each side in turn.
3. All elements are welded flush to the rectangular garage door post.
4. Before work, it is recommended to make a small substrate under the bottom of the loop. Its length is equal to half of the fastener. The top of the substrate is tacked from the side of the end.
5. Before welding the gate hinges from the inside, you need to check how easily the leaves open and close. In case of incorrect operation of the gate, they are additionally processed by welding from the outside.
6. Before finally fixing the gate, the leaves are closed. To avoid sagging, a small stand is placed under the middle of each sash.

The gates open only after some time after the end of work. This is necessary in order for the loops to cool. When heated, the metal is very brittle and subject to deformation. If you overload the structure too early, all work will have to start over.

If your lifting gate is jammed, the reason is in the opening system. In the simplest case, it is enough to lubricate the roller mechanism with oil to ensure the best sliding of the door along the guides. Damage to individual parts, such as a shaft or a spring, is also possible. Faulty elements are replaced with new ones that are identical in functionality.

Video: Garage door insulation

Although self-insulation and garage door repairs do not require specific skills, remember: the health of your iron friend depends on how carefully the work is done. If you have any doubts about the conduct of a particular operation, it is better to contact a specialist.

Before we talk about how to install swing gate posts, let's highlight the product - gate posts. There is always misunderstanding with gate posts. Basically, there is disagreement whether to consider gate posts as part of the gate itself or not. For some reason, many Customers are 100% sure of this and are perplexed when they are explained that this is not so. The client believes that the gate, in principle, cannot exist only in the form of two separate wings, and even more so without welded gate hinges. Or another extreme, when the Customer still admits the existence of such a complete set of gates without poles, but it should be quite cheap. Of course, it is easiest to direct such a Customer to further search for the gate he needs and not save his nerves for explaining elementary things that are axioms for the gate manufacturer. But the fact that there are no extra Customers is a fact. The opinion that swing gates must be completed with gate posts for absolutely no reason. Like, if there are gate leaves, and they cannot hang in the air, the gate hinges must be attached to something, and if so, then the gate posts must also be included in the set of gates. Such logic at the expense of the gate can only be for a person who is very far from construction work, does not represent the technology for installing the gate and the sequence of installation of products when erecting a fence. In reality, gate posts are installed much earlier than the gate itself, and it is the dimensions of the gate that will be taken from these posts. That is, the gate posts are already ready and look good, but the gates themselves are not even in the sketches. Posts for the gate, it is more correct to say, part of the fence configuration. An intelligent builder erecting a fence is always interested in where the gates and gates will be. And he always begins work with the installation of pillars for gates and gates. And then he lays brick or other material.

Installation options for posts for metal gates

Installing gate posts is not an easy job. If you do not have experience in properly installing gate posts, then the result will be disastrous. The gate posts will tilt over time, the gate will wedge or stop working properly. All this can be avoided. What you need to know before you start installing gate posts.

The first is to pay attention to the material of the gate posts. A suitable material would be thick-walled rolled metal. For example, a hot-rolled channel 14, 16 or a smaller channel, pre-welded into a box. Metal posts for gates can serve as profile pipes with a section of 100 x 100 mm and a wall of at least 5 mm. The thicker the pipe wall, the stronger the gate post.

Secondly, in the design of metal gate posts, lower crossbars must be present at the base. Ideally, the post before concreting should rest on the cross of the corner 50, 63. And the other cross should be sunk 100 - 200 mm from the ground. The length of the crossbars of the cross varies from 500 mm to 1 meter.

Thirdly, this is the obligatory concrete pouring of the base of the metal pillars for the gate. At the same time, the gate post must be installed at a depth of at least one and a half meters, and somewhere more. It all depends on the composition and properties of the soil where the gate posts will be installed.

Fourth, do not neglect pouring into the gate post, liquid concrete mortar. This will allow the hollow pipe to be converted into a strong reinforced concrete pole with external reinforcement, thereby achieving the most rigid pole design possible.

Fifth, it is more reliable if the foundation of the gate posts will be part of the general foundation of the fence. And concreting during the installation of pillars for the gate will be carried out simultaneously with the general pouring of the foundation.

Sixth, it is more expedient to provide an additional fastening between the gate post and the fence in its upper part. If you are laying out a brick fence, then the brick pillar inside which the gate post is hidden must be additionally tied with a thick metal strip with the fence itself. It often happens that a brick pillar bends from the load of the gate and breaks away from the fence masonry, forming a crack between them.>

Seventh, sometimes, in difficult clay soils, it is impossible to install gate posts in a strictly vertical position and fix them securely. In this case, you need to use additional upper and lower crossbars (lintels) between the goalposts. The lower lintel is made of metal, similar to that used for gate posts, and is buried in the ground to a depth of 300 - 400 mm. In the future, a normal passage is arranged on top of the lower jumper. The upper crossbar is installed along the upper ends of the gate posts. Of course, the upper jumper will not add beauty and neatness to the gate, but this is a necessary measure and very effective. The upper crossbar must be made removable to ensure passage in the case of a tall car or the transportation of bulky cargo through the gate.

How to install gate posts is a much more difficult task than it might seem at first glance.

If it is quite enough for the fence that the pillars simply stand and do not fall, then the gate is a mechanism for the coordinated operation of which, it will be necessary to observe a certain position of both of its wings.

Therefore, the installation of pillars for is the most difficult and important task in their construction.

According to the rigidity to the pillars, all the gates can be divided into groups:

• Gates that are locked with a deadbolt, electronic lock; gates with heavy doors; gates that can be damaged by passing trucks.
• Gates that are locked with a chain or barrier.

Products of the first type are usually placed where they often need to be opened and closed - for example, at the entrance to a large trading base. Usually such a passage has a significant width - about five.

And in some cases - and more, so that two cars can easily pass, up to eight meters wide. The sashes in this case can weigh from 500 kg to four tons.

Yes, and in a private house, many will want to have gates that close with an electronic lock - they can be opened and closed without getting out of the car or just look out the window who has arrived and open the gate for him without leaving.

Before you install gate posts, you need to know that the most stringent requirements are imposed on them here. They must provide reliable work bolt mechanism, stable position of both wings relative to each other.

Gates that are locked with a chain do not impose any special requirements on the rigidity of the pillars.

The chain, although it does not provide sufficiently reliable protection against penetration, will still be an obstacle to the penetration of thieves.

Here it will be enough to ensure sufficient strength of the poles themselves - after all, when using the gate, it is still possible that they will be hit by a trailer when.

It will not be superfluous to also ensure the maintainability of the pillars. Barriers also do not impose any special requirements on the poles. An exception is electronic barriers with beam fixation when lowering on the stop.

In this case, the same requirements are imposed on the pillars as for the gates of the first type. In addition, they should be stronger - the barrier at the entrance is easier to miss in the dark than closed gates. The disadvantage of gates that are locked with a chain is that you have to open and close them manually.

Gate material

• Definitely the most best material for pillars today is a metal pipe - round or square. It has not too much mass so that the pillar can be put up by one or two people without the use of technology. Pouring concrete inside the pipe or filling with lime will create an electrochemical positive potential on the surface of the pipe and increase rust resistance by several times, in addition, products from galvanized pipes can be ordered.
• The second option is reinforced concrete. For heavy gates, this is not very good - constant bending, cyclic loads, the likelihood of an accidental dynamic impact by the side of the trailer or wheel will quickly render them unusable. Reinforced concrete poles are much more suitable for a fence. Brick pillars have the same drawback - except when there is a metal pillar inside, and the loops are attached directly to it with the help of external anchors, through the thickness.
• Finally, the third option is wood poles. Wooden giants will be rather exotic and are used quite rarely - due to low resistance to decay and low bearing capacity.

Installation of posts for gates with deadbolts or heavy gates

To install gate posts so that they do not walk, you can only make a reliable foundation and ensure their rigid connection with each other. Communication can be made at two points - at the bottom of the entrance, at the crossing through the gate and at the top of the pillars. Usually they are welded together at these two points, laying two I-beams between them.

But for the upper fasteners there is a rather serious limitation - sometimes it may be necessary to pass vehicles that exceed the dimensions of the pillars and the upper beam in height. Therefore, the latter is made removable.

When equipping the entrance to your own site, when you plan to drive only your car, it is quite possible not to make a solid foundation for the gate, but to make separate ones for each pillar. At the same time, the pillars are simply welded in the lower part with a thick I-beam, and the same beam is made on top, but removable, inserted into the welded sockets and having welded pins for insertion.

Thus, you can safely enter and exit on your own, while good stable operation of the electronic lock and opening mechanism will be ensured, and skewing of the pillars can be avoided.

However, this does not negate the laying of the foundation for each pillar separately, which must go below the freezing depth for such gates. A concrete platform is usually made in the entry zone. It will be very good if the I-beam, which is welded between the pillars below, will be thicker than it. In a layer of concrete, it will be reliably protected from rust, since concrete gives a slightly alkaline reaction of the environment and prevents the oxidation of the metal.

For heavier gates, it is necessary to make a solid foundation. Usually it is made in the form of the letter "H" with a cross bar strongly elongated horizontally.

The foundation is usually poured solid,. Its depth should be below the freezing depth. Everything is done according to the same rules as the construction of a strip foundation for a house. The thickness of the foundation grillage is about 50 cm. Theoretically, 30 cm will be enough, however, a width of 50 cm allows you to save on formwork and pour the foundation into the gap with the walls of the trench.

Near the pillars, extensions-buttresses are made in both directions, perpendicular to the entrance. Usually, even for heavy gates, a buttress in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe column with a total length of one meter is enough. The foundation is reinforced before pouring.

Between the pillars at the bottom of the entrance, near the surface, an I-beam is welded. Then it is poured into concrete, together with reinforcement - the concrete will be for it reliable protection from.

At the top of the pillars, it is desirable to install an I-beam. Considering that usually heavy gates require large and heavy posts, the beam must match.

It will be difficult to remove and put it in place - you will have to adjust the crane every time. Therefore, it is better to immediately lay a significant margin in height in the pillars and simply weld the beam tightly to them, once and for all.

Poles for the gate

Using the same technology, you can install posts for gates and gates - with the difference that the posts here can be taken thinner, it is enough to put round ones with a diameter of 50 mm or square ones with a width of 50 mm, wall thickness - 3 mm.

It is undesirable to take a smaller wall thickness - it will be difficult to weld hinges to thin metal, and this will affect the durability of the gate.

Considering that 2.5 meters is enough for a person to pass, the poles can be connected without any fear at a height of 2.5 meters by welding a cross member.

The second bundle is at the bottom, where the entrance is. It is desirable to concrete it so that it does not rust. Standard Width gates - 90-120 cm. You can freely pass through such a passage in winter clothes, and with a baby stroller, and even bring a wheelbarrow with earth.

How to concrete gate posts - on the video:

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You will need

• - pipe Ø100 mm;
• - corner 100x100 mm;
• - angle grinder ("Bulgarian");
• - welding machine;
• - cement;
• - sand;
• - edged board and timber for formwork;
• - carpentry tool;
• - shovel and bayonet shovels.

Instruction

Cut out the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a pipe Ø100 mm or a corner 100x100 mm. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For standard gates, it is assumed to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut off one corner flange on both sides at an angle of 30 ° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well against the uprights when they are welded.

Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more even place for this. It should look like the letter "H" - two racks and a jumper laid between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: the parallelism of the racks between themselves and the perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the uprights. Both shelves of the corners must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will play the role of reinforcement, firmly connecting the jumper to the foundation.

Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). The required depth of the trench is determined taking into account the depth of freezing of the soil, its type, level ground water. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

Make wooden boards from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the walls of the formwork slightly expanding towards the bottom - in order to avoid the expulsion effect of the soil on the foundation.

Place the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the racks or lintel and secure the racks on both sides with stops. Lay reinforcement from any type of metal in the formwork - wire, metal profile scraps, etc.

Prepare a sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. During pouring, tamp the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be flush with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.

When the territory of the site is fenced off, the question always arises of the need to install a gate. They come in several types: swing, retractable, opening in one direction or lifting. You can install on your own only hinged or opening in one direction gates. The rest are installed on special structures with the participation of specialists in this field.

You will need

• - hinges
• - bolts or welding machine
• -pillars
• - flat bar

Instruction

In summer cottages and in private houses, swing doors are usually installed gates. This design is the presence of two wings, welded from iron or made from tesa. In some cases, carved or forged gates.

To install the gate, dig in the pillars by measuring the manufactured doors. Poles can be installed iron or wood. Fill both of them with cement mortar for strength and reliability.

Hinges can be welded to poles and gates m or fasten using bolts. Store hinges are not suitable for installing gates. They are unreliable. Order powerful homemade hinges at any turning organization or purchase from a market that sells homemade parts. They should be on a ball mechanism, which will make it easy to open gates without making any effort.

The most difficult process is the installation and fixing of the gate. It is impossible to carry out this procedure alone, because the doors made of any material are quite heavy. They need to be hung at a distance from the ground that does not prevent them from opening.

Place a block of the desired size down the gate along the length of both wings. Install one sash on it and weld or screw the hinges. First it is done from above, then from below.

The second gate leaf must be installed in accordance with the first one and welded or hinged. And do the same. First, the hinge is screwed or welded from above, then from below.

If you installed a bar, then both wings should be at the same distance from the ground so that distortions do not occur when they are closed.

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The owners of their own plots try to install such gates so that they are both beautiful and comfortable, and would fit well into general design. Wood structures are considered the most accessible and simple to implement.

Those who wish to make their own wooden gates first need to draw up a design drawing. This helps to more accurately represent the scope of work, to purchase the necessary materials in advance. When drawing up a drawing, you must try to ensure that all the details and structural elements are in full accordance with each other.

How to install gate supports

From wooden beams you need to make vertical supports. Their value must be calculated as follows: add another meter to the height of the gate for deepening. The greater the depth at which the supports are installed, the more stable and durable the structure will be. So during the operation of the gate, the likelihood of warping is reduced.

Remove debris from the place intended for the installation of support poles. Dig holes - their diameter should be 20 cm larger than that of the supports. Pack the bottom of the hole and make a cushion of rubble. That part of the column, which will be filled with concrete, must first be treated with a compound that will protect the wood from decay - for example, bituminous mastic. Use a plumb line to check the verticality of the post. The pit with the installed post must be filled with concrete and wait until it dries.

Gate manufacturing

To make one of the goal posts, you will need one bar for the top and bottom, two bars for the side posts, two for the middle lintel. The calculation of the dimensions for the gate is done depending on the size of the machine. All parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.

The frame parts are laid out on a flat surface, holes must be drilled at the joints. Pins are inserted into them - they give rigidity to the places where the parts are connected. In the middle of the frame, jumpers made of timber are installed. At the corners, jibs are attached, which are bars with cuts at the ends at an angle of 45 degrees.

When calculating the height of the frame, it must be taken into account that the sheathing boards should protrude beyond it from below and from above by 20 cm. The boards must be prepared before sheathing - cut to the dimensions required by the calculation and work with a planer. They can be attached to the frame and tightly to each other, and with a certain step. After all the sheathing boards are in place, the top must be cut and cleaned with sandpaper. Now hinges are attached to the sashes - for this, self-tapping screws with screw threads are used. Self-tapping screws can also be used to fix the mounts to the racks.

The distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground must be at least 5 cm. Closed gates are fixed with latches, latches or locks - the owner chooses the method. It is better to paint the gate in assembled form.

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The fence is an important element of the fence. During its construction, it is necessary to determine what kind of supports it will have. Its reliability and longevity depend on it. pillars can be wood, metal or concrete. Once you've made your choice, get to work.

You will need

• - pillars;
• - cord;
• - pegs;
• - saw;
• - drill;
• - gravel;
• - bitumen;
• - wedges.

Instruction

Installation of poles for fence start by marking the fenced area. Do it with string. Correctly calculate the number of posts, crossbars and canvases.

Hammer in stakes at the posts. Once again, check the correctness of the intended line. The pegs should be strictly on the marking step. A crooked fence will not be strong.

Mark the height of the pole. She must be taller than herself. fence by a few centimeters. Considering the underground part, saw off the excess.

For any motorist, a garage is not just an additional room near the house, but a building element that serves to store an iron horse, and is also used as a pantry or workshop. Therefore, here, too, climatic conditions must be provided that will be comfortable for the car. And this may require repair of the garage door or insulation, since this part is vulnerable. There are simple troubleshooting steps. Knowing them, you will be able to carry out all the work with your own hands.

Garage door insulation

For proper insulation of the gate, you must follow certain rules:

• pay attention not only to the insulation of the door leaf, but also to the sealing of joints and cracks using a material that is characterized by a high coefficient of expansion;
• carefully select a heater, the thermal conductivity of which is higher than that of the walls of the garage;
• compliance with safety regulations;
• the thickness of the heat-insulating material must be the same over the entire area of ​​the gate;
• carry out the process at a positive temperature.

Do I need to insulate and why?

They are usually made from metal. Because of this, problems arise. AT winter time year they are prone to freezing. This happens due to the fact that uneven freezing of the garage perimeter occurs, since only the gates are metal. After all, it is metal, and not brick, the most heat-conducting element. Because of this, the gate condenses moisture from inside the garage, and at negative air temperatures, this condensate turns into ice.

Condensation occurs at any time of the year due to daily temperature fluctuations. And this leads to some problems:

1. Corrosion due to prolonged exposure to moisture. Non-insulated gates rust much faster, and this happens even when stainless steel was used for their manufacture.
2. Condensation settling on all metal objects in the garage, including a car that usually drives into a cold garage warm due to constant work. The garage is designed to preserve it, but in the absence of insulated gates, on the contrary, it contributes to its damage. In an unprepared garage, the car rots faster, and this, unfortunately, is not a myth.
3. The ice does not allow the gate to be opened. Attempting to do this quickly may result in damage.

There are many reasons to insulate your garage door as soon as possible. But you need to do it right.

Material selection

The first question to be solved is the choice of thermal insulation material. Each of them has its own technical characteristics, which can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. The table will help you to get acquainted with them.

Table: insulation materials

Knowing these characteristics, you can get a holistic view of each material, on the basis of which you can make a choice:

1. Expanded polystyrene is not as resistant to fire, however, the advantages are low thermal conductivity and high resistance to moisture.
2. Polyurethane foam allows you to perform insulation without seams, and it can be applied to an unprepared surface. This material is absolutely resistant to temperature extremes, the effects of chemicals, thereby ensuring the strength and durability of insulated gates. But for this pleasure you will have to pay a considerable amount.
3. Mineral wool does not burn. Since the risk of sparks is high in the garage, it is worth considering using this material. However, when installing it, you need to take care of additional hydro and vapor barrier.
4. Styrofoam almost does not conduct heat, has high moisture resistance, which is very important when insulating gates. And also, due to its low density, there will be no additional load on the gate. Styrofoam is absolutely safe for humans and environment. In addition, it is quite affordable material and easy to process. Therefore, it is polystyrene that is considered almost ideal for insulating metal garage doors.

There are other materials that are suitable for this purpose, for example, liquid foam - penoizol.

Calculation of the amount of material

For high-quality insulation of the gate, it is necessary to carefully calculate the consumption of all necessary materials in advance. In addition to the selected insulation, you will also need a facing material, which at the end of the work will finish the gate. It could be:

• lining;
• corrugated board;
• Fiberboard or MDF;
• plywood (it is recommended to choose moisture resistant);
• OSB boards ( perfect option, because it is highly durable, vapor-tight, easy to process, cheap).

To calculate the amount of facing material, you need to know the dimensions of the gate. As a rule, when using OSB boards for insulation, two pieces are enough, since standard sizes them are 125*250cm.

For cladding, you will need to mount the crate. You need to place it on the door leaf. To do this, it is better to take wooden blocks of at least 4 * 2.5 cm. You need to mount them around the perimeter of the canvas, while you can mount them on metal corners. When calculating its general design, the dimensions of the load-bearing elements of the gate, foam boards (or other insulation) should be taken into account, while the fastening step of the facing material should be at least 40 cm. The bars must first be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from rotting.

For mounting the crate, you will also need galvanized self-tapping screws:

• for fastening to the side surface - 3.5 * 30 mm;
• for end mounting - 4.5*70 mm.

The length of the self-tapping screw depends on whether the crate will be attached to metal corners or a pipe. In the second case, the length must be increased. To calculate their number, it is necessary to make a drawing of the gate insulation on paper.

It is better to fix OSB boards with screws with a press washer 32 mm long. Quantity is calculated in the same way.

For high-quality insulation of metal gates, one must not forget about anti-corrosion protection. Suitable for this special primer. It must be applied to a degreased surface.

You can not do without mounting foam, which is needed for attaching insulation boards to the gate and sealing gaps.

Tools

For high-quality insulation of metal gates in the garage, you need a number of tools that almost every good owner has:

1. Electric drill.
2. Drill. It is necessary to take care in advance of the availability of drills for working with wood and metal (if the crate is wooden).
3. Screwdrivers of various sections. Can be replaced with a screwdriver.
4. Wood saw. If there is, then a jigsaw. It will speed up the work.
5. Metal brush with metal bristles or a suitable drill bit.

In addition to these tools, you may need others, for example:

• brush or roller for applying antiseptic;
• a hammer;
• core (used to mark the holes of the drill);
• tape measure or meter ruler;
• square;
• construction knife;
• sandpaper;
• clamps (needed to fix the elements).

Step-by-step instruction

After the material is selected and calculated, the tool is prepared, you can proceed to the direct insulation of the garage door. All work takes place in several stages (in the case of foam insulation):

• Preparatory work. In no case should this stage be missed, since it largely depends on the quality of thermal insulation. If there is rust on the canvas, you need to get rid of it using a special nozzle on the drill. It is recommended to go over the entire surface of the gate with sandpaper, and then with a degreaser. Next, an anti-corrosion primer is applied in two layers (the second layer can be applied only after the first one has dried well). Now is the time to install the waterproofing layer. Bituminous mastic, vapor barrier membrane, isolon are suitable for this.
• Lathing installation. On the inner surface of the gate, mount the crate. It can be metal or wood. You need to fasten to the base of the metal sheet with self-tapping screws or screws. Make fasteners according to the drawing, and for this you need to make markings, and then drill holes without overheating the drill. The bars must all be solid, it is recommended to attract with clamps, and then drill with a thin drill.

If there is a problem with fastening the lower horizontal beam to the frame or gate, then it can only be fastened to the end. If it is possible to remove the gate, then this must be done in order to get the tool to the frame.

If desired, the plates can be painted in your favorite color, however, even without this, the main goal of insulation will be achieved.

Do-it-yourself garage repair: how and why to do it

Timely implementation repair work- a necessity, since through the gate can penetrate cold air, which adversely affects the technical condition of the car. Fortunately, you can carry out routine repairs yourself.

How to raise the gate

There are several reasons why this type of repair is required. Most often, it is necessary to raise the gate when it is impossible to open it not only in winter due to icing, but also in summer. by the most in a simple way to solve this problem is to cut the gate with subsequent concreting of the passage. However, it is better to carry out a full repair so as not to reduce the dimensions of the structure.

Gate lifting steps:

1. Dismantle them, release the frame. Before removing the gate from the hinges, it is recommended to wash the mortar between the bricks.
2. Remove several rows of bricks from the top of the garage opening. Instead of bricks, lay a channel or a high-strength corner, which are fixed anchor bolts. This will save the gate structure from further destruction.
3. On the lower section, slightly raise the backfill. You can close the gap between the gate and the floor in another way, for example, by concreting. You can also make a small sill. Regardless of the way to eliminate the gap, you need to ensure that the slope is directed towards the street, otherwise excessive moisture in the garage cannot be avoided, especially during heavy rain.

How to fix the frame on the wall

One of the problems that can affect the ease of use of the garage is the separation of the gate frame from the wall. Spend this species repairs can be done on your own. This is done as follows:

1. Remove the old gate.
2. Weld a metal belt to the gate from the inside.
3. Replace old hinges with new ones.
4. In places where the frame is attached to the wall, it is recommended to install metal corners and fittings.
5. Mount the gate, observing all the rules.

It is necessary to carefully strengthen the gate frame to the wall, since this is one of the weak points of the garage.

How to replace a gate

In some cases, a complete replacement of the gate is necessary. This can happen for many reasons, such as when the structure has become unusable due to rust and rot. The door replacement process only takes a few hours. During this time, the following works(after dismantling the old gate):

1. Frame installation. It will give the gate the necessary rigidity and allow the doors to move easily. First, the outer and inner parts of the frame are mounted to the opening. For this, metal pins with a length of 150 to 180 mm are used (it is recommended to process their ends welding machine sanded and painted).
2. Carry out additional fastening of the gate with iron lintels. The distance between them should be from 2 to 4 cm.
3. Fixation of shutters on hinges.

How to fix skew and adjust correctly

Problems arise when the geometry of the gate is violated. You can solve it depending on the cause of the malfunction:

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Repair and insulation of garage doors is a painstaking task, not every owner wants to do everything on their own. However, if it is not possible to invite an experienced specialist, then these tips will help to do everything quickly and efficiently.

From the article you will learn how to strengthen swing and sectional garage doors to increase the strength of structures and the level of protection against burglary. We will review the most popular and effective ways. Tips and tricks will help you secure your car and other valuable property.

How to strengthen garage doors: increasing the protection of structures with hinged doors

Before you strengthen the garage door, equipped with hinged doors, identify all the weak points that attackers can take advantage of.

List of the most common problems:

1. loose junction of the valves to each other;
2. protruding loops for padlocks;
3. the presence of handles and other elements to which a cable can be attached;
4. loops placed outside for hanging sashes;
5. weak locks;
6. sashes without stiffeners, made of thin sheets of steel;
7. lack of alarm.

Ideally, garage doors should be devoid of all of the above disadvantages. Next, we will talk about ways to strengthen hinges and sashes, as well as the nuances of choosing and installing locks.

How to strengthen swing gate hinges

There is only one way to strengthen the loops located outside. Weld special metal bars on them. This will make it much more difficult to cut.

Important! This method is used only in cases where it is impossible to install the gate so that the hinges are inside the garage. If the attacker is armed with an acetylene cutter, the amplification will not save.

To exclude the possibility of removing the gate from the hinges, weld metal pins or plates to the leaves as shown in the photo below.

Photo No. 1: strengthening the swing gate to protect it from being removed from the hinges

When the doors are closed, the metal plates slide out to the sides and enter the holes in the walls. In this case, the gate will not open and fall out even after cutting the hinges.

How to strengthen swing gate leaves

To begin with, for maximum reliability, swing gates should be made of steel sheets at least 3 mm thick, and the frame and box are made of channels No. 6.

To strengthen the sashes, additional stiffeners are welded to them. For their manufacture, they usually take:

How to further strengthen the protection of swing gates from burglary

1. Loops for padlocks, handles and other elements to which a cable can be tied are best removed altogether or installed on internal surfaces.
2. Make sure that the sashes are as close to each other as possible. If necessary, weld a metal plate onto one of them. Fitting density is also achieved by mounting eccentric locks and vertical bolts.
3. For additional protection of the premises, lattice doors can be installed behind the main gate, which will be locked to the inside the padlock. From the outside, weld a steel plate to hide the locking device from prying eyes. You will have to touch the lock to open it.

Selection and installation features of locks for swing gates

When choosing locks, immediately ask the seller to show models designed specifically for garages. Such locking devices are marked with the letter "G". Lever and disc locks are optimal. Burglary resistance must be at least 3rd class.

Basic rules for installing locks.

• Mechanisms and fasteners must not protrude beyond the plane of the gate from the outside.
• For fixing, use reliable bolts (thickness - 8 mm and above).

Important! Place 2-3 locking devices of different types at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. Experts recommend additionally protecting the locks with metal windows.

How to strengthen sectional doors

Sectional doors can be reinforced with steel profiles. The need to strengthen structures arises in three cases.

1. The gates are installed in a room where significant temperature fluctuations are possible or air humidity exceeds the permissible values.
2. Sandwich panels are subject to constant high wind loads.
3. The entrance to the garage is located on the sunny side (thermal deformations are possible).

Image #1: Canvas sectional doors with amplifiers

If the steel profiles were not included in the package, you will have to buy them separately. Prices are more than acceptable.

Important! If you order sectional doors with the possibility remote control, do not save on electronics and ask if the equipment is equipped with systems remote monitoring, protection against interception of signals and their encryption.

To monitor the state of structures, connect the automation to the Internet and install the application on your smartphone. So you can monitor the garage in real time.

The protection of sectional doors against burglary is also enhanced by installing secret locking mechanisms. This method of improving security is best suited for manual models, since hidden locks are not associated with automation.

Image #2: Secret locking mechanism for a sectional door

Garage door alarm

Installing a security system is a great way to protect both manual and automatic sectional garage doors from burglary. In Moscow, alarms connected to centralized monitoring panels of private security agencies are popular. When an alarm is received, rapid response teams are sent to the facilities.

You can also equip the gate with a howler alarm that makes loud noises when unauthorized entry is attempted. Don't forget to install and mask the switch.

Today, there are many options for manufacturing entrance gate to the surrounding area of ​​a home or business. One of the simplest, most reliable and economical ways to manufacture gates is to use profiled metal sheets.

Gates made of corrugated board have high strength characteristics, have an attractive appearance and a long service life. At the same time, the technology for installing such gates is quite simple, which allows you to make them yourself.

Structurally, a profiled sheet gate is a frame made of a metal profile with a fixed profiled sheet. The frame is mounted on the poles with the help of hinges - and the gate is ready. Pillars can be both metal and wooden. For wood, the optimal diameter is 200 mm; for metal, the thickness of the column may be less.

The depth of the pillars is carried out by about a third relative to their overall length. At the same time, the height of the above-ground part must be 500 mm greater than the height of the gate leaf to provide some clearance from below and above. It is necessary to make a gravel or sand cushion in the pit, and it is advisable to fill the column with concrete - this will increase the reliability of the entire gate structure.

For installation on a frame, it is recommended to choose a profiled sheet marked "C" as a canvas. It denotes relatively light wall sheets made of galvanized steel with a small height of the ribs. Due to its lightness, working with such a sheet is quite simple. Also, the low weight reduces the wear of the hinges, extending the overall life of the gate.

One of the main problems of gates made of corrugated board (as well as fences made of this material) is high wind loads. Because of them, a sheet of corrugated board can simply be torn off from the frame, not to mention the fact that the gate can spontaneously open, etc.

To strengthen the gate from corrugated board, various methods can be used.

• Firstly, this is a high-quality installation of pillars, that is, the use of a pillow and concrete pouring. If the pillars are installed securely, then the gate will not go anywhere.
• Secondly, the gate frame can be reinforced with metal profile stiffeners. The simplest option is to install diagonal beams crosswise (in the form of the letter "X"). The profile in this case is welded in places corner connection frame beams. The stiffeners not only prevent the sheet from bending under the influence of the wind, but also serve as additional attachment points.
• Thirdly, fastening. The step of fastening the corrugated board to the frame or stiffeners should not exceed 150 mm. As fasteners, it is best to use rivets, not self-tapping screws. The latter can be torn out, both by the wind and by intruders. With rivets, turning such an operation is more difficult.
• Fourth, pay attention to the quality of welding of the frame under the gate. It is on the quality of the assembly of the frame that the overall strength of the gate will depend.
• Fifthly, special holes in the leaf web will help reduce wind loads. This method applicable only if you are not afraid of the possibility of prying eyes on the site, and do not feel sorry for the sheet itself.